GB2043430A

GB2043430A - Garment

Info

Publication number: GB2043430A
Application number: GB8005750A
Authority: GB
Original assignee: BUECKING GEORG D GmbH
Current assignee: BUECKING GEORG D GmbH
Priority date: 1979-02-20
Filing date: 1980-02-20
Publication date: 1980-10-08
Also published as: BE881818A; DE7904618U1; FR2449415A1; SE8001293L; FR2449415B3; NL8001003A

Abstract

A garment is described which allows the wearer freedom of movement due to the provision of an insert 4 of an extensible and resilient material between seams subject to stress from movement in the garment. The garment may be a sports garment or a work garment. A blouson work jacket having raglan sleeves 3 and a strip-shaped insert 4 passing under the armpit at the seam where the sleeve is set in is exemplified. <IMAGE>

Description

SPECIFICATION Garment This invention relates to a garment with improved freedom of movement, especially a work or sports garment.

As well as providing a good fit, working and sporting clothes should also be comfortable and give the wearer the maximum possible freedom of movement.

It has been proposed to obtain freedom of movement for the arms of work garments in the horizontal direction by providing folds in the form of golf pleats or back pleats in the garment which is made from a suitable basic material. Attempts have been made to qbtain freedom of movement for the arms in the vertical direction from 90 to 180 by using sewn-in gussets consisting of the basic material in the shoulders. In order to obtain a reasonably good fit, the width of the top and the width at the waist were balanced out by means of inserted pleats, wedge-shaped pleats or narrow seaming.Whereas narrow seaming and wedge-shaped pleats in themselves are not conductive to increased freedom of movement, gussets and pleats, whether intended to promote freedom of movement or a good fit, are frequently decidedly uncomfortable or even cumbersome, particularly when a strong, hard-wearing and to some extent stiff basic material is used. Since pleats which give freedom of movement do not return to their original position after a number of movements have been completed, they eventually impair the fit and often result in a rather shapeless appearance. In addition, the various operations required for sewing in gussets and inserting and stitching pleats and wedge-shaped folds increase the manufacturing costs.

It is an object of the invention to provide freedom of movement in a garment, whilst retaining a good fit, which includes balancing out the widthways dimensions.

According to the present invention there is provided a garment, wherein the garment is made of a suitable basic material, and wherein at least one insert of an extensible and resilient material is placed between seams subject to stress from movement in the gar ment, thereby to provide freedom of move ment at said points.

The present garment may be a work gar ment or a sports garment or any other gar ment. It is preferably one which is a jacket or has a jacket portion.

The insert, which is preferably strip-shaped, may be inserted on both sides, i.e. on the left and right sleeve openings, between the edge of the material of the front and back sections which defines the sleeve opening and the edge of the material of the sleeve of the garment which defines the underarm and shoulder portion, these inserts passing below the armpits.

The garment preferably has raglan sleeves, in which, on each side, a strip-shaped insert of extensible, resilient material is inserted between the edge of the material of the front and back sections which defines the sleeve opening and the edge of the material of the sleeve which defines the underarm and shoulder portion, from one collar attachment point to the other on the front and back sections, these inserts passing below the armpit portion, i.e. the insert is provided where the sleeve is set in to the body.

It is also possible for a strip-shaped insert of extensible, resilient material to be inserted between the side seams on both sides between the front and back sections of a work garment, this insert extending like a gusset into the region of the underarm portion and along part of the underside of the sleeve.

It is also possible to insert a strip-shaped insert of extensible, resilient material between the waist seams of a one-piece suit or overall.

The insert is preferably made of woven elastic material; the material may be 100% polyester.

By virtue of the fact that inserts of woven elastic material are incorporated at the seams of a garment which are subject to stress from movement, the garment is given an extensible and resilient form and thus permits greater freedom of movement, whilst the fit is not impaired by movements of the body. Moreover, better temperature conditions may be obtained inside the garment.

In order to enable the invention to be more readily understood, reference will now be made to the accompanying drawings, which illustrate diagrammatically and by way of example, some embodiments thereof, and in which: Figure 1 shows a blousson-type work jacket with an insert between the sleeve insertion seams, Figure 2 is a rear view of the blousson jacket shown in Fig. 1, Figure 3 shows part of a side view of a blouson work jacket with an insert between the front and back sections, Figure 4 is a front view of a one-piece pair of work overalls with inserts between the sleeve insertion seams as in Fig. 1, Figure 5 is a rear view of the overalls shown in Fig. 4, and Figure 6 shows part of a side view of a one piece pair of work overalls with an insert between the side seams between the front and back sections of the upper part.

In the Figures, identical parts are marked with the same reference numerals.

Referring now to Fig. 1, there is shown from diagonally in front, a blouson work jacket which can be made from any desired basic textile material. The jacket has raglan sleeves in which the shoulder portion is cut out in one piece with the sleeve. A stripshaped insert 4 of extensible material, preferably woven elastic material, is inserted on each side of the jacket (on the left and right, of Fig.

2) between the edge 1 of the material of the front and back sections which defines the sleeve opening and the edge 2 of the material of the sleeve 3 defining the underarm and shoulder portion, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

The strip-shaped insert 4 extends on both sides from one collar attachment point to the other, on the front and back sections, along the conventionally arranged armhole seam below the armpit portion. Thanks to its elastic properties, the strip-shaped insert 4 gives a freedom of movement for the arms which has not hitherto been obtained, whilst the garment has an optimum fit which is not affected even by repeated movements.

The lateral freedom of movement of the arms from 90 to 180 is determined chiefly by the shaping of the underarms and, up till now, gussets sewn into the underarm or both underarms were used in an attempt to obtain this freedom of movement. Pleats, wedgeshaped folds or narrow seaming were used to balance out the widths of the upper part and the waist in order to obtain a good fit, but the latter two measures in themselves were an obstacle to general freedom of movement.

Fig. 3 shows how both these problems are solved in optimum manner by one and the same feature, without affecting each other. It shows part of a side view of a blouson jacket with the arm raised sideways. A strip-shaped insert 7 of woven elastic material is inserted between the opposite edges of the front section 5 and back section 6, which are joined together in the conventional way by a seam.

This insert 7 begins at the bottom, at the waistband 11 of the jacket, and extends into the upper region in the form of a gusset 9 at the sleeve attachment point and into the region of the underarm and the underside of the sleeve 8. Due to the provision of the insert 7 of woven elastic material in the side and underarm, including part of the underside of the sleeve 8, the garment is given an extensible, resilient shape for arm movements and in its ability to stretch, so that here again the freedom of movement is increased and guaranteed, whilst at the same time a better fit is obtained. Although Fig. 3 shows only one side (namely the left) of a blouson jacket, it is self-evident that an insert of this kind is also provided in the right-hand side of the jacket.

Figs. 4 and 5 show one-piece work overalls the upper portion 10 of which is tailored in the raglan style, like the jacket shown in Figs.

1 and 2. Here, too, a strip-shaped insert 4 of extensible and resilient material is inserted on each side of the garment between the edge 1 of the material of the front and back sections which defines the sleeve opening (see also Fig. 5) and the edge 2 of the material of the sleeve 3 which defines the underarm and shoulder portion. As in Figs. 1 and 2, the strip-shaped insert 4 extends from one collar attachment point to the other on the front and rear sections along the conventionally arranged armhole seam and passes under the armpit portion. Due to the provision in the sleeve seam of the strip-shaped insert 4, which is preferably made from woven elastic material, the overalls are given an extensible and resilient shape and hence gives a freedom of movement not obtained hitherto, without the fit being affected by body movements.

Fig. 6 shows the use of a strip-shaped insert 7 of elastic material inserted in the side, as in the embodiment shown in Fig. 3, and extending in the form of a gusset 9 into the underarm and part of the underside of the sleeve 8, of a one-piece overall such as those shown in Figs. 4 and 5. This results in the same advantages as those described with reference to the blouson jacket shown in Fig. 3.

Obviously, it is also possible and advantageous to provide inserts of elastic material, preferably woven elastic material, at other seams which are subjected to stress from movement.

For example, such an insert could be provided between the waist seams, e.g. between the upper and lower portions of one-piece overalls. If necessary, for example if the basic material is particularly stiff, wedge-shaped pleats may also be replaced by gusset-type elastic inserts.

The inserts of elastic material are advantageously in the form of strips. They can thus be inserted so as to follow the path of the seams, i.e. the opposite edges of the sections of basic material of the work garment (front section, back section, sleeves) which are joined together in the conventional way by means of a seam being inserted between these edges. The inserts can then be stitched, in the region of their edges, to the basic material in the region of the edges of the sections of the work garment, i,e, they are longitudinally joined to the basic material by means of at least one seam independently of the other seam, and are joined to the basic material (collar attachment, waistband, underside of sleeve) along their two short sides in the same way. The strip-shaped inserts are thus placed between these seams.

The arrangement of the strip-shaped inserts extending along and in the region of these edges or seams of the work garment permits good freedom of movement and ensures that the shape of the garment adapts to the position of the body even during vigorous arm movements, e.g. long stretching movements, and does not look misshapen or pulled out of shape. When the body returns to its normal position, the extensible and resilient material of the strip-shaped insert ensures that the insert returns to its original (unextended) form, whereby the garment also resumes its normal fitting position.

The strip-shaped insert is preferably bounded longitudinally by parallel edges. The length of the strip-shaped insert (in the unstretched state) is determined basically by the design in question, particularly the nature of the above mentioned seams into which it is inserted. The width of the strip-shaped insert of elastic material (in the unstretched state) is determined as a function of the body movements, the finished width being preferably from 3 to 6 cm.

It should be emphasised that the presence of a strip-shaped insert in the above mentioned seams does not affect the appearance of the garment, but rather gives it an attractive, sporty look.

In general, it is also true that the incorporation of inserts of woven elastic material in garments substantially improves the temperature conditions as well as giving greater freedom of movement.

Suitable materials for the inserts of woven elastic material include, for example: 2-filament 100% polyester (2 x 1 67 dtex textured) Weight 480 g/m2.

or: 2-filament 100% polyester (1 X167 dtex textured polyester) (1 X Nm 40/l spun polyester) Polyester type: Polyester 350, resistant to pilling, run-resistant.

Weight 500 g/m2.

Claims

1. A garment, wherein the garment is made of a suitable basic material, and wherein at least one insert of an extensible and resilient material is placed between seams subject to stress from movement in the garment, thereby to provide freedom of movement at said points.

2. A garment as claimed in claim 1, wherein the garment is a work garment.

3. A garment as claimed in claim 1, wherein the garment is a sports garment.

4. A garment as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the garment is a jacket or includes a jacket portion.

5. A garment as claimed in claim 4, wherein a strip-shaped insert of extensible, resilient material passing under the armpit is inserted on each side of the garment between the edge of the material of the front and back sections which defines the sleeve opening and the edge of the material of the sleeve of the garment which defines the underarm and shoulder portion.

6. A garment as claimed in claim 4, wherein the garment has raglan sleeves, and wherein a strip-shaped insert of extensible, resilient material passing from one collar attachment point to the other on the front and back sections under the armpit portion is inserted on each side of the garment between the edge of the material at the front and back sections which defines the sleeve opening, and the edge of the material of the sleeve which defines the underarm and shoulder portion.

7. A garment as claimed in claim 4, wherein a strip-shaped insert of extensible, resilient material is inserted between the side seams on each side of the garment between the front section and back section of the upper part of the garment, said insert extending in the form of a gusset into the region of the underarm portion and part of the underside of the sleeve.

8. A garment as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the garment is a onepiece suit of overalls and wherein a stripshaped insert of extensible and resilient material is inserted between the waist seams of the garment.

9. A garment as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the insert consists of woven elastic material.

10. A garment as claimed in claim 9 wherein the insert is made of 100% polyester.

11. A garment substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to Figs. 1 and 2, or Fig. 3, or Figs. 4 and 5 or Fig. 6 of the accompanying drawings.