FR3135621A1 - Powder processing, manufacturing process, composition and use - Google Patents
Powder processing, manufacturing process, composition and use Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR3135621A1 FR3135621A1 FR2204783A FR2204783A FR3135621A1 FR 3135621 A1 FR3135621 A1 FR 3135621A1 FR 2204783 A FR2204783 A FR 2204783A FR 2204783 A FR2204783 A FR 2204783A FR 3135621 A1 FR3135621 A1 FR 3135621A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- powder
- coconut oil
- weight
- composition according
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 218
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 12
- 238000009700 powder processing Methods 0.000 title 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 114
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 109
- 239000003240 coconut oil Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 52
- 235000019864 coconut oil Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 52
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000012764 mineral filler Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 238000002803 maceration Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims description 59
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 claims description 57
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 28
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 claims description 15
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000000227 grinding Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 244000060011 Cocos nucifera Species 0.000 claims description 10
- 235000013162 Cocos nucifera Nutrition 0.000 claims description 10
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc monoxide Chemical compound [Zn]=O XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- VTYYLEPIZMXCLO-UHFFFAOYSA-L Calcium carbonate Chemical compound [Ca+2].[O-]C([O-])=O VTYYLEPIZMXCLO-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- PNEYBMLMFCGWSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N aluminium oxide Inorganic materials [O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Al+3].[Al+3] PNEYBMLMFCGWSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910044991 metal oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000004706 metal oxides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000005507 spraying Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910000420 cerium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- DRVWBEJJZZTIGJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N cerium(3+);oxygen(2-) Chemical class [O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Ce+3].[Ce+3] DRVWBEJJZZTIGJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- -1 for example nacres Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000005995 Aluminium silicate Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052582 BN Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- PZNSFCLAULLKQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Boron nitride Chemical compound N#B PZNSFCLAULLKQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001661 Chitosan Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002774 Maltodextrin Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000005913 Maltodextrin Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001218 Pullulan Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004373 Pullulan Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- QCWXUUIWCKQGHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zirconium Chemical compound [Zr] QCWXUUIWCKQGHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000012211 aluminium silicate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- UHHXUPJJDHEMGX-UHFFFAOYSA-K azanium;manganese(3+);phosphonato phosphate Chemical compound [NH4+].[Mn+3].[O-]P([O-])(=O)OP([O-])([O-])=O UHHXUPJJDHEMGX-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000987 azo dye Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- IRERQBUNZFJFGC-UHFFFAOYSA-L azure blue Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[S-]S[S-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] IRERQBUNZFJFGC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910000019 calcium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000012730 carminic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000010980 cellulose Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- QFSKIUZTIHBWFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N chromium;hydrate Chemical compound O.[Cr] QFSKIUZTIHBWFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940035034 maltodextrin Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010445 mica Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052618 mica group Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052901 montmorillonite Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920005615 natural polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000058 polyacrylate Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019423 pullulan Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001059 synthetic polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000013799 ultramarine blue Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019354 vermiculite Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- UOUJSJZBMCDAEU-UHFFFAOYSA-N chromium(3+);oxygen(2-) Chemical class [O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Cr+3].[Cr+3] UOUJSJZBMCDAEU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 24
- 239000002609 medium Substances 0.000 description 22
- UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron oxide Inorganic materials [Fe]=O UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 21
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 description 21
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 19
- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 19
- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 description 14
- 235000013980 iron oxide Nutrition 0.000 description 12
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 11
- SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N ferrosoferric oxide Chemical compound O=[Fe]O[Fe]O[Fe]=O SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 10
- WTFXARWRTYJXII-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(2+);iron(3+);oxygen(2-) Chemical compound [O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Fe+2].[Fe+3].[Fe+3] WTFXARWRTYJXII-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 7
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]=O JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N arachidyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 125000004494 ethyl ester group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 5
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical class CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 description 4
- WCOXQTXVACYMLM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-bis(12-hydroxyoctadecanoyloxy)propyl 12-hydroxyoctadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC WCOXQTXVACYMLM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octyldodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCCCC LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 241001116389 Aloe Species 0.000 description 4
- 239000001140 aloe barbadensis leaf extract Substances 0.000 description 4
- 235000011399 aloe vera Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 4
- VBMVTYDPPZVILR-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(2+);oxygen(2-) Chemical class [O-2].[Fe+2] VBMVTYDPPZVILR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Triacontane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 4
- UIVPNOBLHXUKDX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)CC(C)CCOC(=O)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C UIVPNOBLHXUKDX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 235000018936 Vitellaria paradoxa Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 241001135917 Vitellaria paradoxa Species 0.000 description 3
- 150000001335 aliphatic alkanes Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229940100554 isononyl isononanoate Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 3
- RYMZZMVNJRMUDD-HGQWONQESA-N simvastatin Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@@H](C)C=CC2=C[C@H](C)C[C@@H]([C@H]12)OC(=O)C(C)(C)CC)C[C@@H]1C[C@@H](O)CC(=O)O1 RYMZZMVNJRMUDD-HGQWONQESA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000037072 sun protection Effects 0.000 description 3
- YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-NMFSSPJFSA-N 1,1,2,2,3,3-hexadeuteriopropane-1,3-diol Chemical compound [2H]C([2H])(O)C([2H])([2H])C([2H])([2H])O YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-NMFSSPJFSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenoxyethanol Chemical compound OCCOC1=CC=CC=C1 QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- NCZPCONIKBICGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(2-ethylhexoxy)propane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COCC(O)CO NCZPCONIKBICGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 244000025272 Persea americana Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000008673 Persea americana Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000013019 agitation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229940099583 aluminum starch octenylsuccinate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 2
- FFBHFFJDDLITSX-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzyl N-[2-hydroxy-4-(3-oxomorpholin-4-yl)phenyl]carbamate Chemical compound OC1=C(NC(=O)OCC2=CC=CC=C2)C=CC(=C1)N1CCOCC1=O FFBHFFJDDLITSX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000014121 butter Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229940048300 coco-caprylate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 2
- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 2
- 229940100524 ethylhexylglycerin Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 238000001914 filtration Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000001023 inorganic pigment Substances 0.000 description 2
- NJTGANWAUPEOAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N molport-023-220-454 Chemical compound OCC(O)CO.OCC(O)CO NJTGANWAUPEOAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BARWIPMJPCRCTP-CLFAGFIQSA-N oleyl oleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC BARWIPMJPCRCTP-CLFAGFIQSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000011837 pasties Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 230000005855 radiation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229940057400 trihydroxystearin Drugs 0.000 description 2
- OYPRJOBELJOOCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Calcium Chemical class [Ca] OYPRJOBELJOOCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VYZAMTAEIAYCRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chromium Chemical compound [Cr] VYZAMTAEIAYCRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FYYHWMGAXLPEAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Magnesium Chemical class [Mg] FYYHWMGAXLPEAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 241001639412 Verres Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000014104 aloe vera supplement Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N aluminium Chemical class [Al] XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012736 aqueous medium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003796 beauty Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002051 biphasic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940067573 brown iron oxide Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011575 calcium Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052791 calcium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000012512 characterization method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052804 chromium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011651 chromium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000005690 diesters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002270 dispersing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002612 dispersion medium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000118 hair dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007970 homogeneous dispersion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- LDHBWEYLDHLIBQ-UHFFFAOYSA-M iron(3+);oxygen(2-);hydroxide;hydrate Chemical compound O.[OH-].[O-2].[Fe+3] LDHBWEYLDHLIBQ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000007791 liquid phase Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011068 loading method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002879 macerating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011777 magnesium Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052749 magnesium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000012528 membrane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- MSRJTTSHWYDFIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N octyltriethoxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](OCC)(OCC)OCC MSRJTTSHWYDFIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012860 organic pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003921 particle size analysis Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 238000004064 recycling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008247 solid mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004381 surface treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trioctanoin Chemical group CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCC VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
- A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
Landscapes
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)
- Paints Or Removers (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Traitement de poudre, procĂ©dĂ© de fabrication, composition et utilisation Composition sous forme de poudre comprenant : - Une poudre, notamment un pigment, une charge minĂ©rale, un polymĂšre, seul ou en mĂ©lange ; - 1 Ă 20 % en poids dâhuile de coco par rapport au poids total de la composition; ou 1 Ă 20% en poids dâun macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Figure pour l'abrĂ©gĂ© : NĂ©an tPowder treatment, manufacturing process, composition and use Composition in powder form comprising: - A powder, in particular a pigment, a mineral filler, a polymer, alone or in a mixture; - 1 to 20% by weight of coconut oil relative to the total weight of the composition; or 1 to 20% by weight of a maceration of Aloe Vera in coconut oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for the abstract: None
Description
La prĂ©sente invention concerne un traitement de surface de poudres, notamment pigments, afin dâamĂ©liorer la dispersion desdites poudres notamment dans une composition cosmĂ©tique. La prĂ©sente demande concerne la composition de poudres ainsi obtenue, le procĂ©dĂ© de traitement des poudres et lâutilisation de ces poudres traitĂ©es dans des compositions cosmĂ©tiques.The present invention relates to a surface treatment of powders, in particular pigments, in order to improve the dispersion of said powders in particular in a cosmetic composition. The present application relates to the powder composition thus obtained, the powder treatment process and the use of these treated powders in cosmetic compositions.
De nombreuses formulations cosmĂ©tiques comprennent des poudres dispersĂ©es Ă lâĂ©tat divisĂ©, typiquement des pigments. Lorsque les pigments sont dispersĂ©s de façon homogĂšne dans la formulation, sa couleur est homogĂšne et intense. La formulation devient plus stable et sa durĂ©e de vie est plus longue. Dans les formulations solaires, des poudres Ă lâĂ©chelle nanomĂ©trique sont utilisĂ©es comme filtres minĂ©raux pour absorber les rayonnements Ă la place de la peau. Plus ces poudres sont dispersĂ©es de façon homogĂšne, plus elles absorbent les rayonnements. La dispersion homogĂšne des pigments est ainsi une Ă©tape clĂ© dans une formulation et elle est assurĂ©e par une Ă©tape de broyage du pigment dans une des phases liquides de la formulation. Cette Ă©tape de broyage augmente le temps de fabrication et engendre un coĂ»t supplĂ©mentaire pour les formulateurs car il est nĂ©cessaire dâavoir un Ă©quipement adĂ©quat. Ainsi il semble important dâamĂ©liorer la dispersion des pigments afin dâĂ©liminer cette Ă©tape de broyage en formulation. De plus, dans le domaine cosmĂ©tique, il existe une demande croissante des produits de beautĂ© plus propres, plus sains, plus naturels et plus durables.Many cosmetic formulations include powders dispersed in a divided state, typically pigments. When the pigments are evenly dispersed in the formulation, its color is homogeneous and intense. The formulation becomes more stable and its shelf life is longer. In sunscreen formulations, nanoscale powders are used as mineral filters to absorb radiation instead of the skin. The more homogeneously these powders are dispersed, the more they absorb radiation. The homogeneous dispersion of the pigments is thus a key step in a formulation and it is ensured by a step of grinding the pigment in one of the liquid phases of the formulation. This grinding step increases manufacturing time and generates additional costs for formulators because it is necessary to have adequate equipment. It therefore seems important to improve the dispersion of pigments in order to eliminate this grinding step in formulation. Additionally, in the cosmetics field, there is a growing demand for cleaner, healthier, more natural and more sustainable beauty products.
JP2004182679 propose de traiter des pigments avec de lâextrait dâAloe Vera et de lâhuile de coco. Ce traitement est dĂ©crit comme permettant dâamĂ©liorer le toucher des poudres dans des formulations cosmĂ©tiques sĂšches telles que les poudres de compacts, il nâest nullement mentionnĂ© lâutilisation dans des dispersions dans un milieu liquide.JP2004182679 suggests treating pigments with Aloe Vera extract and coconut oil. This treatment is described as making it possible to improve the feel of powders in dry cosmetic formulations such as compact powders; there is no mention of the use in dispersions in a liquid medium.
WO2O10/111279, propose de traiter des pigments avec des molĂ©cules synthĂ©tiques comme par exemple la combinaison dâun agent dispersant tel que lâacide polyhydroxy stĂ©arique et dâun traitement hydrophobe tel que le triethoxycaprylylsilane afin dâamĂ©liorer la dispersion des pigments dans une formulation. Cependant, dans le domaine cosmĂ©tique, pour une question de sĂ©curitĂ© et de qualitĂ© environnementale, il est souvent souhaitable dâutiliser de moins en moins les produits synthĂ©tiques.WO2O10/111279, proposes treating pigments with synthetic molecules such as for example the combination of a dispersing agent such as polyhydroxy stearic acid and a hydrophobic treatment such as triethoxycaprylylsilane in order to improve the dispersion of pigments in a formulation. However, in the cosmetic field, for reasons of safety and environmental quality, it is often desirable to use synthetic products less and less.
EP0200839 propose de traiter des pigments par de la lĂ©cithine hydrogĂ©nĂ©e. La lĂ©cithine hydrogĂ©nĂ©e comporte des mono- et di-esters de phosphate comportant des chaĂźnes grasses. Une fois dĂ©posĂ©e sur le pigment, la lĂ©cithine hydrogĂ©nĂ©e favorise la dispersion de celui-ci, dans la phase huileuse. Lâutilisation de pigments traitĂ©s par de la lĂ©cithine hydrogĂ©nĂ©e dans une formulation cosmĂ©tique dont le milieu est huileux permet donc dâobtenir une coloration adĂ©quate sans Ă©tape de broyage. Cependant ce procĂ©dĂ© comprend une Ă©tape de mĂ©lange du pigment avec un additif dans un solvant typiquement une solution aqueuse, lâadditif pouvant ĂȘtre des sels dâaluminium, de magnĂ©sium, de calcium etc. Le mĂ©lange obtenu est ensuite filtrĂ© puis sĂ©chĂ© pour rĂ©cupĂ©rer les pigments traitĂ©s. NĂ©anmoins, lorsque les pigments sont des pigments de trĂšs faibles diamĂštres, typiquement des pigments dont les particules isolĂ©es prĂ©sentent un D50 infĂ©rieur Ă 0,5 ”m, ou lorsque les pigments sont trĂšs hydrophiles, ceux-ci passent Ă travers la membrane de filtration, limitant ainsi le rendement en pigment traitĂ©. Par ailleurs, la mise en Ćuvre de solution aqueuse et la nĂ©cessitĂ© dâune filtration entraĂźne des questions en terme de temps de traitement, dâĂ©nergie, dâenvironnement et de recyclage.EP0200839 proposes treating pigments with hydrogenated lecithin. Hydrogenated lecithin contains phosphate mono- and diesters with fatty chains. Once deposited on the pigment, hydrogenated lecithin promotes its dispersion in the oily phase. The use of pigments treated with hydrogenated lecithin in a cosmetic formulation with an oily medium therefore makes it possible to obtain adequate coloring without a grinding step. However, this process includes a step of mixing the pigment with an additive in a solvent, typically an aqueous solution, the additive possibly being salts of aluminum, magnesium, calcium, etc. The mixture obtained is then filtered and then dried to recover the treated pigments. However, when the pigments are very small diameter pigments, typically pigments whose isolated particles have a D50 less than 0.5 ”m, or when the pigments are very hydrophilic, they pass through the filtration membrane, limiting thus the yield of treated pigment. Furthermore, the use of an aqueous solution and the need for filtration raises questions in terms of treatment time, energy, environment and recycling.
Il y a donc un intĂ©rĂȘt de fournir un nouveau traitement des poudres.There is therefore an interest in providing a new powder treatment.
Un objectif de la prĂ©sente invention est de fournir un nouveau traitement de poudres, notamment pigments, permettant dâamĂ©liorer leur dispersion notamment dans les milieux liquides notamment les compositions cosmĂ©tiques, qui soit plus respectueux de lâenvironnement et mette en Ćuvre des composĂ©s biosourcĂ©s et permettant de traiter les poudres de toutes tailles.An objective of the present invention is to provide a new treatment of powders, in particular pigments, making it possible to improve their dispersion in particular in liquid media, in particular cosmetic compositions, which is more respectful of the environment and uses biosourced compounds and allowing you to process powders of all sizes.
Un autre objectif de la prĂ©sente invention est de fournir un procĂ©dĂ© de traitement plus rapide, consommant moins dâĂ©nergie et donc plus respectueux de lâenvironnement.Another objective of the present invention is to provide a faster treatment process, consuming less energy and therefore more environmentally friendly.
Dâautres objectifs encore apparaĂźtront Ă la lecture de la description de lâinvention qui suit.Still other objectives will appear on reading the description of the invention which follows.
Ces objectifs sont remplis par la présente invention qui concerne une composition, sous forme de poudre, comprenant :
- Une poudre, notamment un pigment, une charge minérale, un polymÚre, seul ou en mélange ;
- 1 Ă 20 % en poids dâhuile de coco ou 1 Ă 20% en poids dâun macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
- A powder, in particular a pigment, a mineral filler, a polymer, alone or in a mixture;
- 1 to 20% by weight of coconut oil or 1 to 20% by weight of an Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.
De préférence, la présente demande concerne une composition, sous forme de poudre, comprenant :
- Une poudre, notamment un pigment, une charge minérale, un polymÚre, seul ou en mélange,
- 1 Ă 20% en poids dâun macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
- A powder, in particular a pigment, a mineral filler, a polymer, alone or in a mixture,
- 1 to 20% by weight of an Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Dans le cadre de la prĂ©sente invention, on entend par macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco une composition obtenue par macĂ©ration dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco, de prĂ©fĂ©rence il sâagit dâune composition obtenue par macĂ©ration de feuilles dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco. De prĂ©fĂ©rence, dans le macĂ©ra de lâinvention, le ratio en poids dâAloe Vera par rapport au poids dâhuile de coco est compris entre 0,1% et 10%, de prĂ©fĂ©rence entre 0,5% et 5%. De façon avantageuse, ce ratio permet de disperser trĂšs facilement les poudres en milieu huileux ou silicone ou dans la phase huileuse continue dâune Ă©mulsion eau dans huile.In the context of the present invention, the term Aloe Vera maceration in coconut oil is understood to mean a composition obtained by maceration of Aloe Vera in coconut oil, preferably it is a composition obtained by maceration of Aloe Vera leaves in coconut oil. Preferably, in the macera of the invention, the ratio by weight of Aloe Vera relative to the weight of coconut oil is between 0.1% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%. Advantageously, this ratio makes it possible to very easily disperse the powders in an oily or silicone medium or in the continuous oily phase of a water-in-oil emulsion.
De prĂ©fĂ©rence, la composition selon lâinvention comprend de 80 Ă 99% en poids de poudre, de prĂ©fĂ©rence de 85 Ă 99% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 80 to 99% by weight of powder, preferably from 85 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
La poudre de lâinvention est une poudre gĂ©nĂ©ralement utilisĂ©e en cosmĂ©tique et destinĂ©e Ă ĂȘtre dispersĂ©e dans une composition cosmĂ©tique, notamment une composition cosmĂ©tique liquide.The powder of the invention is a powder generally used in cosmetics and intended to be dispersed in a cosmetic composition, in particular a liquid cosmetic composition.
La poudre peut ĂȘtre choisie parmi les pigments, les charges minĂ©rales, les polymĂšres.The powder can be chosen from pigments, mineral fillers, polymers.
Le pigment selon lâinvention peut ĂȘtre un pigment organique, inorganique ou de nature hybride organique-inorganique.The pigment according to the invention can be an organic, inorganic or hybrid organic-inorganic pigment.
A titre de pigments adaptĂ©s Ă la mise en Ćuvre de lâinvention, on peut notamment citer le dioxyde de titane, le nitrure de bore, lâoxyde de zinc, les oxydes de zirconium ou de cĂ©rium, ainsi que les oxydes de fer ou de chrome, le violet de manganĂšse, le bleu outremer, l'hydrate de chrome et le bleu ferrique, et leurs mĂ©langes. Les pigments inorganiques prĂ©fĂ©rĂ©s sont les oxydes de fer, notamment l'oxyde de fer rouge, l'oxyde de fer jaune, l'oxyde de fer brun, l'oxyde de fer noir, le dioxyde de titane, lâoxyde de zinc et leurs mĂ©langes.As pigments suitable for implementing the invention, mention may in particular be made of titanium dioxide, boron nitride, zinc oxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or cerium oxides. chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. Preferred inorganic pigments are iron oxides, including iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow, iron oxide brown, iron oxide black, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and their mixtures.
De prĂ©fĂ©rence, le pigment est un oxyde de fer, notamment l'oxyde de fer rouge, l'oxyde de fer jaune, l'oxyde de fer brun (obtenu selon un mĂ©lange dâoxydes de fer rouge et noir), l'oxyde de fer noir et leurs mĂ©langes.Preferably, the pigment is an iron oxide, in particular red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide (obtained from a mixture of red and black iron oxides), the oxide black iron and their mixtures.
Les pigments organiques adaptĂ©s Ă la mise en Ćuvre de lâinvention, peuvent ĂȘtre choisis parmi le carmin, les dĂ©rivĂ©s de colorants azoĂŻques, ou encore un pigment laquĂ©, câest-Ă -dire un colorant associĂ© Ă un support minĂ©ral qui le rend insoluble. Dans le cadre de la prĂ©sente invention on entend par colorant une substance colorĂ©e hydrosoluble ou liposoluble, au contraire un pigment est insoluble dans les milieux aqueux ou huileux.The organic pigments suitable for implementing the invention can be chosen from carmine, derivatives of azo dyes, or even a lacquered pigment, that is to say a dye associated with a mineral support which makes it insoluble. In the context of the present invention, the term dye is understood to mean a water-soluble or fat-soluble colored substance; on the contrary, a pigment is insoluble in aqueous or oily media.
Le pigment peut Ă©galement ĂȘtre choisi parmi les substrats comprenant un oxyde mĂ©tallique tel que par exemple les nacres, les oxydes mĂ©talliques ayant subi un traitement minĂ©ral par exemple silice, alumine; les composites comprenant une bille de polymĂšre ou minĂ©rale dĂ©corĂ©e de pigments ; des ingrĂ©dients tels que des colorants absorbĂ©s sur des polysaccharides (chitosan, maltodextrine, cellulose, gomme xanthan, pullulan etc.), des colorants absorbĂ©s sur des polymĂšres synthĂ©tiques ou naturels tels que des acides polyhydroxyalcaniques ou des charges minĂ©rales adsorbĂ©s de colorant et leurs mĂ©langes.The pigment can also be chosen from substrates comprising a metal oxide such as for example nacre, metal oxides having undergone a mineral treatment for example silica, alumina; composites comprising a polymer or mineral ball decorated with pigments; ingredients such as dyes absorbed on polysaccharides (chitosan, maltodextrin, cellulose, xanthan gum, pullulan etc.), dyes absorbed on synthetic or natural polymers such as polyhydroxyalkanic acids or mineral fillers adsorbed with dyes and their mixtures.
Les charges minĂ©rales adaptĂ©es Ă la mise en Ćuvre de lâinvention peuvent ĂȘtre choisies parmi le talc, le mica, le kaolin, lâalumine, la silice, le carbonate de calcium, les argiles telles que les montmorillonites, les vermiculites ou encore les pyrophyllites etc, et leurs mĂ©langes.The mineral fillers suitable for implementing the invention can be chosen from talc, mica, kaolin, alumina, silica, calcium carbonate, clays such as montmorillonites, vermiculites or even pyrophyllites etc, and their mixtures.
Les polymĂšres selon lâinvention peuvent ĂȘtre naturels (tels que des polysaccharides, des polyamides, des acides polyhydroxyalcaniques) ou synthĂ©tiques (tels que des polymĂšres dâacrylate), et leurs mĂ©langes.The polymers according to the invention can be natural (such as polysaccharides, polyamides, polyhydroxyalkanic acids) or synthetic (such as acrylate polymers), and mixtures thereof.
Les poudres de lâinvention peuvent ĂȘtre un mĂ©lange des poudres mentionnĂ©es ci-dessus.The powders of the invention can be a mixture of the powders mentioned above.
La liste des poudres mentionnĂ©es dans la prĂ©sente invention nâest pas exhaustive. De maniĂšre gĂ©nĂ©rale, toute poudre en cosmĂ©tique peut ĂȘtre traitĂ©e en surface selon cette invention pourvue quâelle soit sous forme de poudre.The list of powders mentioned in the present invention is not exhaustive. Generally speaking, any cosmetic powder can be surface treated according to this invention provided that it is in powder form.
De façon particuliĂšrement avantageuse, les poudres de lâinvention peuvent ĂȘtre de toute taille. Par exemple, les poudres (notamment pigment, charge, polymĂšre) prĂ©sentent un diamĂštre moyen Dv50 en volume, mesurĂ© par granulomĂ©trie laser en milieu aqueux, de 10 nm Ă 30 ”m. Cela comprend donc Ă©galement des particules Ă lâĂ©chelle nanomĂ©trique au sens de la rĂ©glementation cosmĂ©tique.Particularly advantageously, the powders of the invention can be of any size. For example, powders (in particular pigment, filler, polymer) have an average diameter D v 50 by volume, measured by laser particle size analysis in an aqueous medium, from 10 nm to 30 ”m. This therefore also includes particles at the nanoscale within the meaning of cosmetic regulations.
De façon particuliĂšrement avantageuse, le traitement des poudres avec de lâhuile de coco ou le macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans lâhuile de coco, permet de rendre la poudre hydrophobe et par consĂ©quent dâamĂ©liorer sa dispersion notamment dans les milieux liquides notamment compositions cosmĂ©tiques.Particularly advantageously, the treatment of powders with coconut oil or Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil makes it possible to make the powder hydrophobic and therefore to improve its dispersion, particularly in liquid media. cosmetic compositions.
De façon avantageuse, lâAloe Vera permet dâĂ©viter lâoxydation de lâhuile de coco et donc de la composition de poudre.Advantageously, Aloe Vera helps prevent the oxidation of coconut oil and therefore of the powder composition.
De prĂ©fĂ©rence, la composition de lâinvention comprend de 3 Ă 10% en poids dâhuile de coco ou dâun macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans lâhuile de coco par rapport au poids total de la composition.Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises from 3 to 10% by weight of coconut oil or an Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
De prĂ©fĂ©rence, la composition de lâinvention comprend :
- De 85 Ă 99% en poids de poudre ;
- De 1 Ă 15% en poids dâhuile de coco ou dâun macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans lâhuile de coco,
- From 85 to 99% by weight of powder;
- From 1 to 15% by weight of coconut oil or Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil,
les pourcentages Ă©tant en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.the percentages being by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Sans vouloir ĂȘtre liĂ© par une quelconque thĂ©orie, dans la composition de poudres de lâinvention, la poudre, lâhuile de coco ou le macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans lâhuile de coco, sont intimement mĂ©langĂ©s, lâhuile de coco ou le macĂ©ra Ă©tant en gĂ©nĂ©ral adsorbĂ© Ă la surface des poudres par les liaisons intermolĂ©culaires telles que les liaisons HydrogĂšne et les liaisons de Van Der Walls.Without wishing to be bound by any theory, in the powder composition of the invention, the powder, the coconut oil or the Aloe Vera macera in the coconut oil, are intimately mixed, the coconut oil or the macera being generally adsorbed on the surface of the powders by intermolecular bonds such as Hydrogen bonds and Van Der Walls bonds.
Ainsi, la composition de poudre selon lâinvention est une composition solide.Thus, the powder composition according to the invention is a solid composition.
La composition de poudre selon lâinvention est destinĂ©e Ă ĂȘtre dispersĂ©e dans un milieu liquide, de prĂ©fĂ©rence un milieu huileux, silicone ou dans la phase huileuse dâune Ă©mulsion eau dans huile, de prĂ©fĂ©rence ledit milieu liquide est ou fait partie dâune composition cosmĂ©tique.The powder composition according to the invention is intended to be dispersed in a liquid medium, preferably an oily medium, silicone or in the oily phase of a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably said liquid medium is or forms part of a cosmetic composition.
De façon particuliĂšrement avantageuse, le traitement des poudres permet dâamĂ©liorer la dispersibilitĂ© des poudres notamment dans les milieux liquides, notamment les milieux huileux, silicone ou dans la phase huileuse dâune Ă©mulsion eau dans huile, et plus prĂ©fĂ©rentiellement dans les compositions cosmĂ©tiques.In a particularly advantageous manner, the treatment of powders makes it possible to improve the dispersibility of the powders, particularly in liquid media, notably oily media, silicone or in the oily phase of a water-in-oil emulsion, and more preferably in cosmetic compositions.
De façon avantageuse, lorsque la poudre est un pigment, le traitement de lâinvention permet un dĂ©veloppement rapide, complet et homogĂšne de lâintensitĂ© colorielle et un ajustement facile de la teinte souhaitĂ©e en formulation cosmĂ©tique.Advantageously, when the powder is a pigment, the treatment of the invention allows rapid, complete and homogeneous development of the color intensity and easy adjustment of the desired shade in cosmetic formulation.
De façon avantageuse du fait de la stabilitĂ© et de la fluiditĂ© de la composition de poudre selon lâinvention, il est possible dâajouter une quantitĂ© plus importante de poudre, notamment pigment, dans les milieux liquides dans lesquels ils sont dispersĂ©s. Il est ainsi possible de disperser une quantitĂ© plus importante de poudre dans les compositions cosmĂ©tiques, notamment les compositions huileuses, silicones ou Ă©mulsion, lorsque les poudres ont Ă©tĂ© traitĂ©es par lâinvention, tout en limitant lâaugmentation de la viscositĂ©. Il est donc possible de prĂ©parer une composition cosmĂ©tique dont lâextrait sec en poudre est plus Ă©levĂ©. Cela permet notamment, lorsque la poudre est un pigment, dâobtenir une composition cosmĂ©tique avec une meilleure couvrance. Cela permet Ă©galement une meilleure application des formulations cosmĂ©tiques.Advantageously, due to the stability and fluidity of the powder composition according to the invention, it is possible to add a larger quantity of powder, in particular pigment, to the liquid media in which they are dispersed. It is thus possible to disperse a larger quantity of powder in cosmetic compositions, in particular oily, silicone or emulsion compositions, when the powders have been treated by the invention, while limiting the increase in viscosity. It is therefore possible to prepare a cosmetic composition with a higher dry powder extract. This makes it possible, in particular, when the powder is a pigment, to obtain a cosmetic composition with better coverage. This also allows for better application of cosmetic formulations.
La prĂ©sente demande concerne Ă©galement un procĂ©dĂ© de prĂ©paration de la composition selon lâinvention comprenant la pulvĂ©risation de lâhuile de coco ou du macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans lâhuile de coco tel que dĂ©crit ci-dessus Ă la surface de la poudre. La composition est ensuite chauffĂ©e Ă une tempĂ©rature comprise entre 30 et 120°C pour sĂ©cher la composition. Lâhomme du mĂ©tier saura adapter la tempĂ©rature en fonction de la nature, notamment chimique, de la poudre.The present application also relates to a process for preparing the composition according to the invention comprising spraying coconut oil or Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil as described above on the surface of the powder. . The composition is then heated to a temperature between 30 and 120°C to dry the composition. A person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the temperature according to the nature, particularly chemical, of the powder.
Le procĂ©dĂ© peut Ă©galement comprendre une Ă©tape, aprĂšs sĂ©chage, de micronisation ou broyage. Selon la nature des poudres, les tailles de particules Ă lâissue du procĂ©dĂ© peuvent ĂȘtre comprises entre 5 nm et 50 ”m.The process can also include a step, after drying, of micronization or grinding. Depending on the nature of the powders, the particle sizes at the end of the process can be between 5 nm and 50 ”m.
De façon gĂ©nĂ©rale, lorsque des poudres sont utilisĂ©es dans les compositions cosmĂ©tiques il est nĂ©cessaire pour le formulateur de prĂ©-disperser les poudres dans la composition puis de broyer la composition obtenue pour avoir une bonne dispersion des poudres. Avantageusement, le procĂ©dĂ© de traitement des poudres selon lâinvention permet de sâaffranchir de cette prĂ©-dispersion et de ce broyage pour la prĂ©paration de la composition cosmĂ©tique. Le procĂ©dĂ© de prĂ©paration de la composition cosmĂ©tique comprenant la composition de poudre selon lâinvention peut donc ĂȘtre mis en Ćuvre sans broyeur, ce qui permet de diminuer le coĂ»t et le temps de production de la composition cosmĂ©tique.Generally, when powders are used in cosmetic compositions it is necessary for the formulator to pre-disperse the powders in the composition then to grind the composition obtained to have good dispersion of the powders. Advantageously, the powder treatment method according to the invention makes it possible to dispense with this pre-dispersion and this grinding for the preparation of the cosmetic composition. The process for preparing the cosmetic composition comprising the powder composition according to the invention can therefore be implemented without a grinder, which makes it possible to reduce the cost and time of production of the cosmetic composition.
La prĂ©sente demande concerne Ă©galement lâutilisation de la composition de poudre selon lâinvention, ou susceptible dâĂȘtre obtenue par le procĂ©dĂ© de lâinvention, pour prĂ©parer une dispersion dans un milieu liquide, notamment une composition cosmĂ©tique. La composition de poudre selon lâinvention est mĂ©langĂ©e au milieu liquide pour obtenir la dispersion souhaitĂ©e.The present application also relates to the use of the powder composition according to the invention, or capable of being obtained by the process of the invention, to prepare a dispersion in a liquid medium, in particular a cosmetic composition. The powder composition according to the invention is mixed with the liquid medium to obtain the desired dispersion.
Dans le cadre de la prĂ©sente invention, le milieu liquide est de prĂ©fĂ©rence un milieu huileux, silicone ou une Ă©mulsion eau dans huile (la dispersion de la composition de poudre selon lâinvention ayant alors lieu dans la phase huileuse continue de lâĂ©mulsion eau dans huile).In the context of the present invention, the liquid medium is preferably an oily medium, silicone or a water-in-oil emulsion (the dispersion of the powder composition according to the invention then taking place in the continuous oily phase of the water emulsion in oil).
La dispersion peut contenir entre 0,01% et 50% en poids de la composition de poudre de lâinvention par rapport au poids total de la dispersion. Elle peut contenir de prĂ©fĂ©rence entre 2% et 30% en poids de la composition de poudre par rapport au poids total de la dispersion.The dispersion may contain between 0.01% and 50% by weight of the powder composition of the invention relative to the total weight of the dispersion. It can preferably contain between 2% and 30% by weight of the powder composition relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
Le macéra étant tel que décrit ci-dessus et les quantités étant telles que décrites ci-dessus.The macera being as described above and the quantities being as described above.
La prĂ©sente invention concerne Ă©galement lâutilisation dâune huile de coco ou dâun macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco pour amĂ©liorer la dispersion de poudres dans un milieu liquide, notamment composition cosmĂ©tique, lâhuile de coco ou le macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco Ă©tant pulvĂ©risĂ© sur la poudre.The present invention also relates to the use of a coconut oil or an Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil to improve the dispersion of powders in a liquid medium, in particular cosmetic composition, coconut oil. or Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil being sprayed on the powder.
Le macéra étant tel que décrit ci-dessus et les quantités étant telles que décrites ci-dessus.The macera being as described above and the quantities being as described above.
La dispersion peut contenir entre 0,01% et 50% en poids de la composition de poudre de lâinvention par rapport au poids total de la dispersion. Elle peut contenir de prĂ©fĂ©rence entre 2% et 30% en poids de la composition de poudre par rapport au poids total de la dispersion.The dispersion may contain between 0.01% and 50% by weight of the powder composition of the invention relative to the total weight of the dispersion. It can preferably contain between 2% and 30% by weight of the powder composition relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
La prĂ©sente invention concerne Ă©galement un procĂ©dĂ© pour amĂ©liorer la dispersion de poudres dans un milieu liquide, notamment composition cosmĂ©tique comprenant la pulvĂ©risation sur lesdites poudres dâhuile de coco ou dâun macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco.The present invention also relates to a method for improving the dispersion of powders in a liquid medium, in particular a cosmetic composition comprising spraying said powders with coconut oil or an Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil.
Le macéra étant tel que décrit ci-dessus et les quantités étant telles que décrites ci-dessus.The macera being as described above and the quantities being as described above.
La dispersion peut contenir entre 0,01% et 50% en poids de la composition de poudre de lâinvention par rapport au poids total de la dispersion. Elle peut contenir de prĂ©fĂ©rence entre 2% et 30% en poids de la composition de poudre par rapport au poids total de la dispersion.The dispersion may contain between 0.01% and 50% by weight of the powder composition of the invention relative to the total weight of the dispersion. It can preferably contain between 2% and 30% by weight of the powder composition relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
Dans le cadre de la prĂ©sente invention, le milieu liquide est de prĂ©fĂ©rence un milieu huileux, silicone ou une Ă©mulsion eau dans huile (la dispersion de la composition de poudre selon lâinvention ayant alors lieu dans la phase huileuse continue de lâĂ©mulsion eau dans huile).In the context of the present invention, the liquid medium is preferably an oily medium, silicone or a water-in-oil emulsion (the dispersion of the powder composition according to the invention then taking place in the continuous oily phase of the water emulsion in oil).
La prĂ©sente invention concerne Ă©galement une mĂ©thode dâamĂ©lioration de la dispersion de poudres dans un milieu liquide, notamment composition cosmĂ©tique, comprenant la pulvĂ©risation sur lesdites poudres dâhuile de coco ou dâun macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco.The present invention also relates to a method for improving the dispersion of powders in a liquid medium, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising spraying said powders with coconut oil or an Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil. coconut.
Le macéra étant tel que décrit ci-dessus et les quantités étant telles que décrites ci-dessus.The macera being as described above and the quantities being as described above.
La dispersion peut contenir entre 0,01% et 50% en poids de la composition de poudre de lâinvention par rapport au poids total de la dispersion. Elle peut contenir de prĂ©fĂ©rence entre 2% et 30% en poids de la composition de poudre par rapport au poids total de la dispersion.The dispersion may contain between 0.01% and 50% by weight of the powder composition of the invention relative to the total weight of the dispersion. It can preferably contain between 2% and 30% by weight of the powder composition relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
Dans le cadre de la prĂ©sente invention, le milieu liquide est de prĂ©fĂ©rence un milieu huileux, silicone ou une Ă©mulsion eau dans huile (la dispersion de la composition de poudre selon lâinvention ayant alors lieu dans la phase huileuse continue de lâĂ©mulsion eau dans huile).In the context of the present invention, the liquid medium is preferably an oily medium, silicone or a water-in-oil emulsion (the dispersion of the powder composition according to the invention then taking place in the continuous oily phase of the water emulsion in oil).
La prĂ©sente demande concerne Ă©galement une dispersion dâune composition de poudres selon lâinvention dans un milieu liquide, notamment dans un milieu huileux, silicone ou dans la phase huileuse continue dâune Ă©mulsion eau dans huile. De prĂ©fĂ©rence le milieu liquide est une composition cosmĂ©tique.The present application also relates to a dispersion of a powder composition according to the invention in a liquid medium, in particular in an oily medium, silicone or in the continuous oily phase of a water-in-oil emulsion. Preferably the liquid medium is a cosmetic composition.
La composition de poudres telle que décrite ci-dessus et les quantités étant telles que décrites ci-dessus.The powder composition as described above and the quantities being as described above.
La dispersion peut contenir entre 0,01% et 50% en poids de la composition de poudre de lâinvention par rapport au poids total de la dispersion. Elle peut contenir de prĂ©fĂ©rence entre 2% et 30% en poids de la composition de poudre par rapport au poids total de la dispersion.The dispersion may contain between 0.01% and 50% by weight of the powder composition of the invention relative to the total weight of the dispersion. It can preferably contain between 2% and 30% by weight of the powder composition relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
La prĂ©sente demande concerne enfin une composition cosmĂ©tique dans laquelle est dispersĂ©e la composition de poudre selon lâinvention.The present application finally relates to a cosmetic composition in which the powder composition according to the invention is dispersed.
La composition cosmĂ©tique peut contenir entre 0,01% et 50% en poids de la composition de poudre de lâinvention par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmĂ©tique. Elle peut contenir de prĂ©fĂ©rence entre 2% et 30% en poids de la composition de poudre par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmĂ©tique.The cosmetic composition may contain between 0.01% and 50% by weight of the powder composition of the invention relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It may preferably contain between 2% and 30% by weight of the powder composition relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
La composition de poudres telle que décrite ci-dessus et les quantités étant telles que décrites ci-dessus.The powder composition as described above and the quantities being as described above.
Les compositions cosmĂ©tiques selon lâinvention peuvent par exemple ĂȘtre des compositions de maquillage, composition de coloration des fibres capillaires ou de protection solaire, par exemple mascara, fond de teint, ligneur (« eye-liner » en anglais), rouge Ă lĂšvre, brillant Ă lĂšvres (« lip-gloss » en anglais), compositions de teinture pour cheveux, des compositions de protection solaire par exemple crĂšme solaire. La formulation cosmĂ©tique peut se prĂ©senter sous forme de lotion monophasique ou biphasique, dâĂ©mulsion eau dans lâhuile ou huile dans lâeau, de gel ou de crĂšme.The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can for example be makeup compositions, compositions for coloring hair fibers or sun protection, for example mascara, foundation, eyeliner, lipstick, lip gloss (âlip-glossâ in English), hair dye compositions, sun protection compositions, for example sun cream. The cosmetic formulation can be in the form of a monophasic or biphasic lotion, water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, gel or cream.
De préférence, dans les compositions cosmétiques, notamment de type maquillage ou protection solaire, les pigments préférés sont le dioxyde de titane, les oxydes de fer jaune, rouge et noir.Preferably, in cosmetic compositions, in particular of the makeup or sun protection type, the preferred pigments are titanium dioxide, yellow, red and black iron oxides.
La prĂ©sente demande va maintenant ĂȘtre dĂ©crite Ă lâaide dâexemples non limitatifs.The present application will now be described using non-limiting examples.
Les exemples ci-aprĂšs sont mis en Ćuvre avec un macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco, le macĂ©ra Ă©tant obtenu en faisant macĂ©rer 5% en masse dâAloe Vera (notamment feuille dâAloe Vera) et 95% en masse dâhuile de coco.The examples below are implemented with a macera of Aloe Vera in coconut oil, the macera being obtained by macerating 5% by mass of Aloe Vera (in particular Aloe Vera leaf) and 95% in mass of coconut oil.
Méthode de caractérisation des compositions pigmentairesMethod for characterizing pigment compositions
Les méthodes décrites ci-aprÚs sont utilisées dans les principaux tests de caractérisation illustrés dans les exemples qui suivent :
- HydrophobicitĂ© (mesure de lâangle de contact)
- PrĂ©paration de la poudre compacte : une poudre compacte est prĂ©parĂ©e Ă lâaide dâune compacteuse laboratoire Tecnocoll dans un godet en mĂ©tal de 3,5 mL. La pression est maintenue Ă 50 bar pendant 10 secondes.
- Mesure de lâangle de contact : 4 ”L dâeau est dĂ©posĂ©e sur la poudre compacte. Lâangle de contact du liquide sur le solide peut alors ĂȘtre mesurĂ©e grĂące au goniomĂštre DSA30. Dans le cas de lâeau, si lâangle de contact est infĂ©rieur Ă 90 °, alors la poudre est considĂ©rĂ©e comme hydrophile. Si lâangle de contact est supĂ©rieur Ă 90 °, alors la poudre est considĂ©rĂ©e comme hydrophobe. Plus cette valeur est Ă©levĂ©e, plus la poudre sera hydrophobe.
- Viscosité dynamique
- PrĂ©paration de 30 g de dispersion du pigment dans le Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride : le pigment est mĂ©langĂ© dans le Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride pendant 5 minutes Ă lâaide dâun agitateur magnĂ©tique pendant 3 minutes. Les quantitĂ©s des produits sont ajustĂ©es en fonction des pourcentages en masse souhaitĂ©e.
- Mesure de la viscosité dynamique : Elle est mesurée avec un viscosimÚtre du laboratoire (Brookfield DV2T). Le profile rhéologique se fait en utilisant le mobile SC4-34 à 20 °C.
- Capacité à se disperser facilement dans une formulation cosmétique
- PrĂ©paration de la dispersion : 50.0 g de Covanol White ON 9787 (de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) et de lâoctyldodecanol sont mĂ©langĂ©s au Rayneri, 10.7 g de Covanol Red OS 3705 (de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) est ensuite rajoutĂ©. 15 g du mĂ©lange prĂ©cĂ©dent est prĂ©levĂ© et est mis dans un pot de speedmixer, 1 g de pigment est ensuite rajoutĂ©. Lâensemble est mis sous agitation dans un mĂ©langeur de laboratoire (Hauschild SpeedMixer DAC 150 FVZ-K) pendant 1 minute. La vitesse dâagitation est de 2000 tour/min. Une dispersion fluide est obtenue.
- 4 gouttes de dispersion prĂ©parĂ©e prĂ©cĂ©demment sont dĂ©posĂ©es entre 2 plaques de verre. LâhomogĂ©nĂ©itĂ© de la dispersion est observĂ©e. Le pigment ou la composition pigmentaire est considĂ©rĂ© comme facilement dispersible lorsque la dispersion prĂ©parĂ©e est homogĂšne, aucune prĂ©sence de grain nâest observĂ©e.
- Hydrophobicity (contact angle measurement)
- Preparation of the compact powder: a compact powder is prepared using a Tecnocoll laboratory compactor in a 3.5 mL metal cup. The pressure is maintained at 50 bar for 10 seconds.
- Contact angle measurement: 4 ”L of water is deposited on the compact powder. The contact angle of the liquid on the solid can then be measured using the DSA30 goniometer. In the case of water, if the contact angle is less than 90°, then the powder is considered hydrophilic. If the contact angle is greater than 90°, then the powder is considered hydrophobic. The higher this value, the more hydrophobic the powder will be.
- Dynamic viscosity
- Preparation of 30 g of pigment dispersion in Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: the pigment is mixed in Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride for 5 minutes using a magnetic stirrer for 3 minutes. The quantities of the products are adjusted according to the desired mass percentages.
- Measurement of dynamic viscosity: It is measured with a laboratory viscometer (Brookfield DV2T). The rheological profile is carried out using the SC4-34 mobile at 20°C.
- Ability to disperse easily in a cosmetic formulation
- Preparation of the dispersion: 50.0 g of Covanol White ON 9787 (from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) and octyldodecanol are mixed with Rayneri, 10.7 g of Covanol Red OS 3705 (from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) is then added. 15 g of the previous mixture is taken and put in a speedmixer pot, 1 g of pigment is then added. The whole is stirred in a laboratory mixer (Hauschild SpeedMixer DAC 150 FVZ-K) for 1 minute. The stirring speed is 2000 rpm. A fluid dispersion is obtained.
- 4 drops of dispersion prepared previously are placed between 2 glass plates. The homogeneity of the dispersion is observed. The pigment or pigment composition is considered to be easily dispersible when the dispersion prepared is homogeneous, no presence of grain is observed.
5,0 g du macĂ©ra dĂ©crit prĂ©cĂ©demment est mĂ©langĂ© avec 95,0 g de dioxyde de titane (Nom commercial : Unipure White LC987 de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). Le mĂ©lange final est mis Ă lâĂ©tuve pendant 6h sous 40 °C puis la poudre est broyĂ©e afin dâobtenir les tailles de particules initiales du dioxyde de titane non traitĂ©. On obtient la composition pigmentaire A.5.0 g of the macera described above is mixed with 95.0 g of titanium dioxide (Trade name: Unipure White LC987 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). The final mixture is placed in an oven for 6 hours at 40°C then the powder is crushed in order to obtain the initial particle sizes of the untreated titanium dioxide. Pigment composition A is obtained.
(40%w/wde composition pigmentaire dans le Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, mobile SC4-34, vitesse 40 rpm)Viscosity cPs
(40% w/w pigment composition in Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, mobile SC4-34, speed 40 rpm)
Le tableau 1 reprĂ©sente les rĂ©sultats obtenus pour la composition pigmentaire A et lâUnipure White LC987Table 1 represents the results obtained for pigment composition A and Unipure White LC987
Le tableau 2 reprĂ©sente les mesures de viscositĂ© de 40% en poids de lâUnipure White LC987 et de la composition pigmentaire A dans le Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.Table 2 represents the viscosity measurements of 40% by weight of Unipure White LC987 and pigment composition A in Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.
Par rapport au pigment non traitĂ© (lâUnipure White LC987) le traitement de la prĂ©sente invention illustrĂ© par lâexemple 1 permet dâobtenir une composition pigmentaire A hydrophobe qui a la capacitĂ© de se disperser aisĂ©ment dans une formulation cosmĂ©tique. Le mĂ©lange Ă 40% en poids de 12 g de la composition pigmentaire dans 18 g dâune huile cosmĂ©tique (exemple ici du Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) est Ă©galement plus fluide.Compared to the untreated pigment (Unipure White LC987) the treatment of the present invention illustrated by Example 1 makes it possible to obtain a hydrophobic pigment composition A which has the capacity to easily disperse in a cosmetic formulation. The mixture at 40% by weight of 12 g of the pigment composition in 18 g of a cosmetic oil (example here of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is also more fluid.
La
La viscositĂ© dâune dispersion de pigment dans un milieu liquide augmente avec le taux de charge pigmentaire. Au-delĂ dâun certain seuil, la dispersion devient trop visqueuse ou pĂąteuse et il nâest alors plus possible de mesurer sa viscositĂ©.The viscosity of a pigment dispersion in a liquid medium increases with the pigment loading rate. Beyond a certain threshold, the dispersion becomes too viscous or pasty and it is then no longer possible to measure its viscosity.
Dans le cas de lâUnipure White LC987, avec le viscosimĂštre Brookfield DV2T et le mobile SC4-34, quel que soit la vitesse, il est possible de mesurer sa viscositĂ© dans le Caprylic/Capric Tryglicerides jusquâĂ 25% en poids. A 30% en poids, il nâest plus possible de mesurer la viscositĂ© Ă partir de 200 tours par minute. A 40% en poids, la dispersion devient trop pĂąteuse, la mesure de la viscositĂ© ne peut se faire au-delĂ de 0,2 tour par minute.In the case of the Unipure White LC987, with the Brookfield DV2T viscometer and the SC4-34 mobile, whatever the speed, it is possible to measure its viscosity in Caprylic/Capric Tryglicerides up to 25% by weight. At 30% by weight, it is no longer possible to measure viscosity from 200 revolutions per minute. At 40% by weight, the dispersion becomes too pasty, the viscosity measurement cannot be done beyond 0.2 revolutions per minute.
Dans le cas de lâUnipure White LC987 traitĂ© (Composition pigmentaire A), dans les mĂȘmes conditions que prĂ©cĂ©demment, il est possible de mesurer sa viscositĂ© Ă 40% en poids en tout point. Le profile rhĂ©ologique est par ailleurs similaire Ă celui de lâUnipure White LC987 Ă 25% en poids. ComparĂ© au pigment non traitĂ©, le traitement de la prĂ©sente invention permet dâaugmenter la charge pigmentaire dâau moins 60% en poids en formulation cosmĂ©tique liquide tout en gardant la mĂȘme fluiditĂ©.In the case of treated Unipure White LC987 (Pigment Composition A), under the same conditions as above, it is possible to measure its viscosity at 40% by weight at any point. The rheological profile is also similar to that of Unipure White LC987 at 25% by weight. Compared to untreated pigment, the treatment of the present invention makes it possible to increase the pigment load by at least 60% by weight in liquid cosmetic formulation while maintaining the same fluidity.
ExempleExample 22 : Impact de la nature du traitement, Ă©tude comparative: Impact of the nature of the treatment, comparative study avecwith UnipureUnipure White LC987 BAWhite LC987 BA
5.0 g dâun beurre dâavocat est mĂ©langĂ© avec 95.0 g de dioxyde de titane (Unipure White LC987 de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). Le mĂ©lange final est mis Ă lâĂ©tuve pendant 6h sous 65 °C puis la poudre est broyĂ©e afin dâobtenir les tailles de particules initiales du dioxyde de titane non traitĂ©. On obtient la composition pigmentaire B comparative.5.0 g of avocado butter is mixed with 95.0 g of titanium dioxide (Unipure White LC987 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). The final mixture is placed in an oven for 6 hours at 65°C then the powder is crushed in order to obtain the initial particle sizes of the untreated titanium dioxide. The comparative pigment composition B is obtained.
(40%w/wde composition pigmentaire dans le Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, mobile SC4-34, vitesse 40 rpm)Viscosity Cps
(40% w/w pigment composition in Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, mobile SC4-34, speed 40 rpm)
Le tableau 3 représente les résultats obtenus pour la composition pigmentaire A et BTable 3 represents the results obtained for pigment composition A and B
Les traitements au beurre dâavocat et Ă la composition selon lâinvention permettent tous deux de rendre les pigments hydrophobes. Le mĂ©lange des compositions pigmentaires dans une huile cosmĂ©tique (exemple ici du Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) est Ă©galement fluide.The treatments with avocado butter and the composition according to the invention both make it possible to make the pigments hydrophobic. The mixture of pigment compositions in a cosmetic oil (example here of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is also fluid.
Cependant, seul le traitement avec la composition selon lâinvention permette de rendre le pigment facilement dispersible dans une formulation cosmĂ©tique.However, only treatment with the composition according to the invention makes it possible to make the pigment easily dispersible in a cosmetic formulation.
ExemplesExamples 3-53-5 : ProcĂ©dĂ© de prĂ©paration de pigments traitĂ©s: Process for preparing treated pigments avecwith macĂ©ra dâmacera of AloeAloe Vera dans de lVera in the âhuile de coco'coconut oil en vue de la prĂ©paration dâune formulation de fond de teintfor the preparation of a foundation formulation
ExempleExample 33 :: Traitement sur de lâoxyde de fer jauneTreatment with yellow iron oxide
9,0 g du macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco est mĂ©langĂ© avec 91,0 g de dâoxyde de fer jaune (Nom commercial : Unipure Yellow LC188 de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). Le mĂ©lange final est mis Ă lâĂ©tuve pendant 1h sous 40 °C puis la poudre est broyĂ©e afin dâobtenir les tailles de particules initiales de lâoxyde de fer jaune non traitĂ©. On obtient la composition pigmentaire F.9.0 g of Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil is mixed with 91.0 g of yellow iron oxide (Trade name: Unipure Yellow LC188 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). The final mixture is placed in an oven for 1 hour at 40°C then the powder is crushed to obtain the initial particle sizes of the untreated yellow iron oxide. The pigment composition F is obtained.
ExempleExample 44 : Traitement sur de lâoxyde de fer rouge: Treatment with red iron oxide
5,0 g du macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco est mĂ©langĂ© avec 95,0 g de dâoxyde de fer rouge (Nom commercial : Unipure Red LC383 de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). Le mĂ©lange final est mis Ă lâĂ©tuve pendant 1h sous 40 °C puis la poudre est broyĂ©e afin dâobtenir les tailles de particules initiales de lâoxyde de fer rouge non traitĂ©. On obtient la composition pigmentaire G.5.0 g of Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil is mixed with 95.0 g of red iron oxide (Trade name: Unipure Red LC383 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). The final mixture is placed in an oven for 1 hour at 40°C then the powder is crushed to obtain the initial particle sizes of the untreated red iron oxide. The pigment composition G is obtained.
9,0 g du macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco est mĂ©langĂ© avec 91,0 g de dâoxyde de fer noir (Nom commercial : Unipure black LC990 de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). Le mĂ©lange final est mis Ă lâĂ©tuve pendant 1h sous 40 °C puis la poudre est broyĂ©e afin dâobtenir les tailles de particules initiales de lâoxyde de fer noir non traitĂ©. On obtient la composition pigmentaire H.9.0 g of Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil is mixed with 91.0 g of black iron oxide (Trade name: Unipure black LC990 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). The final mixture is placed in an oven for 1 hour at 40°C then the powder is crushed to obtain the initial particle sizes of the untreated black iron oxide. The pigment composition H is obtained.
ExempleExample 6 :6: RĂ©sultats des traitements sur lâoxyde de fer jaune, rouge et noir des exemplesResults of treatments on yellow, red and black iron oxide examples 33 ,, 44 etAnd 55
(30%w/wde composition pigmentaire dans le Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, mobile SC4-34, vitesse 0,5 rpm)Viscosity cPs
(30% w/w pigment composition in Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, mobile SC4-34, speed 0.5 rpm)
(40%w/wde composition pigmentaire dans le Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, mobile SC4-34, vitesse 40 rpm)Viscosity cPs
(40% w/w pigment composition in Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, mobile SC4-34, speed 40 rpm)
Le traitement de lâinvention permet dâobtenir des oxydes de fer qui ont la capacitĂ© de se disperser facilement.The treatment of the invention makes it possible to obtain iron oxides which have the capacity to disperse easily.
Exemple 7 :Example 7: Traitement huile de coco sur de lâoxyde de fer noirCoconut oil treatment on black iron oxide
5,0 g dâhuile de coco est mĂ©langĂ© avec 95,0 g de dâoxyde de fer noir (Nom commercial : Unipure black LC990 de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). Le mĂ©lange final est mis Ă lâĂ©tuve pendant 1h sous 40 °C puis la poudre est broyĂ©e afin dâobtenir les tailles de particules initiales de lâoxyde de fer noir non traitĂ©. On obtient la composition pigmentaire I.5.0 g of coconut oil is mixed with 95.0 g of black iron oxide (Trade name: Unipure black LC990 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). The final mixture is placed in an oven for 1 hour at 40°C then the powder is crushed to obtain the initial particle sizes of the untreated black iron oxide. Pigment composition I is obtained.
5.0 g du macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco est mĂ©langĂ© avec 95.0 g de dâoxyde de fer noir (Nom commercial : Unipure black LC990 de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). Le mĂ©lange final est mis Ă lâĂ©tuve pendant 1h sous 40 °C puis la poudre est broyĂ©e afin dâobtenir les tailles de particules initiales de lâoxyde de fer noir non traitĂ©. On obtient la composition pigmentaire J.5.0 g of Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil is mixed with 95.0 g of black iron oxide (Trade name: Unipure black LC990 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies). The final mixture is placed in an oven for 1 hour at 40°C then the powder is crushed to obtain the initial particle sizes of the untreated black iron oxide. The pigment composition J is obtained.
(40%w/wde composition pigmentaire dans le Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, mobile SC4-34, vitesse 40 rpm)Viscosity cPs
(40% w/w pigment composition in Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, mobile SC4-34, speed 40 rpm)
Le traitement Ă lâhuile de coco et le traitement au macĂ©ra donnent des rĂ©sultats similaires.Coconut oil treatment and macera treatment provide similar results.
Exemple 8 :Example 8: Evaluation en formulation cosmĂ©tique : cas dâun de fond de teintEvaluation in cosmetic formulation: case of a foundation
Procédé de fabrication 1 : avec un broyage au préalableManufacturing process 1: with prior grinding
- MĂ©langer la phase A1 dans la Lipex ShearLight et broyer 3 fois avec un broyeur tricylindre exakt 50iMix phase A1 in the Lipex ShearLight and grind 3 times with an exakt 50i three-cylinder grinder
- Rajouter les ingrĂ©dients de la phase A2 avec les pigments broyĂ©s de la phase A1. MĂ©lange lâensembleAdd the ingredients from phase A2 with the crushed pigments from phase A1. Mix it all together
- Mélanger la phase B et ajouter la à la phase précédenteMix phase B and add it to the previous phase
- Ajouter un par un chaque ingrédient de la phase CAdd each ingredient from phase C one by one
- MĂ©langer le tout jusquâĂ obtenir un mĂ©lange uniformeMix everything until you obtain a uniform mixture
Procédé de fabrication 2 : sans broyage au préalableManufacturing process 2: without prior grinding
- MĂ©langer les pigments de la phase A1 dans la phase huileuse A2Mix the pigments from phase A1 into the oil phase A2
- Mélanger la phase B et ajouter la à la phase précédenteMix phase B and add it to the previous phase
- Ajouter un par un chaque ingrédient de la phase CAdd each ingredient from phase C one by one
- MĂ©langer le tout jusquâĂ obtenir un mĂ©lange uniformeMix everything until you obtain a uniform mixture
A1
A1
A2
A2
B
B
C
VS
Le tableau 7 donne la formulation de fond de teint 1 avec des pigments non traités.Table 7 gives foundation formulation 1 with untreated pigments.
A1
A1
CI77492 (and) Cocos Nucifera (Coconut)Oil (and) Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
3,80
3.80
2,50
2.50
0,41
0.41
18,30
18.30
A2
A2
B
B
C
VS
Le tableau 8 donne la formulation de fond de teint 2 : avec les pigments traités.Table 8 gives foundation formulation 2: with treated pigments.
Exemple 9 : Taux de charge pigmentaire selon le milieu liquide de dispersionExample 9: Pigment load rate depending on the liquid dispersion medium
La composition pigmentaire A a été dispersée dans différents milieux liquides : alcane en C12-C15, esters éthyliques de beurre de karité, Dimethicone 10CS ; isononyl Isononanoate, octyldodecanol et Capryl/Capric triglycéride (CCT). La quantité de composition pigmentaire a été ajoutée pour obtenir pour chaque dispersion une viscosité dynamique (200 tour/min, SC4-34) comprise entre 120 et 220 cPs. Les résultats sont donnés dans le tableau 10 suivant :Pigment composition A was dispersed in different liquid media: C12-C15 alkane, shea butter ethyl esters, Dimethicone 10CS; isononyl Isononanoate, octyldodecanol and Capryl/Capric triglyceride (CCT). The quantity of pigment composition was added to obtain for each dispersion a dynamic viscosity (200 rpm, SC4-34) of between 120 and 220 cPs. The results are given in the following table 10:
Exemple 10 : Capacité à se disperser facilement dans différentes huilesExample 10: Ability to disperse easily in different oils
- MĂ©langer au mĂ©langeur du Laboratoire Rayneri de lâoxyde de fer rouge (Unipure Red LC388) dans lâhuile pendant 25 minutes pendant 1500 Tr/minMix red iron oxide (Unipure Red LC388) in the oil in the Rayneri Laboratory mixer for 25 minutes at 1500 rpm
- Ajouter 1 g de la composition pigmentaire A dans 15 g du mélange précédent dans un pot de Speedmixer (référence Max 40 Long)Add 1 g of pigment composition A to 15 g of the previous mixture in a pot of Speedmixer (reference Max 40 Long)
- MĂ©langer au speedmixerMix with speedmixer
- Déposer 4 gouttes du mélange obtenu entre 2 plaques de verrePlace 4 drops of the mixture obtained between 2 glass plates
- Observer lâhomogĂ©nĂ©itĂ©, la prĂ©sence des Ă©ventuels agrĂ©gatsObserve the homogeneity, the presence of any aggregates
Good dispersion
Les pigments traitĂ©s peuvent se disperser facilement dans tout type dâhuile cosmĂ©tique.The treated pigments can disperse easily in any type of cosmetic oil.
Claims (14)
- Une poudre, notamment un pigment, une charge minérale, un polymÚre, seul ou en mélange ;
- 1 Ă 20 % en poids dâhuile de coco ou 1 Ă 20% en poids dâun macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco, par rapport au poids total de la composition.Composition in powder form comprising:
- A powder, in particular a pigment, a mineral filler, a polymer, alone or in a mixture;
- 1 to 20% by weight of coconut oil or 1 to 20% by weight of an Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.
parmi les pigments, les charges minérales, les polymÚres.Composition according to claim 1 in which the powder is chosen
among pigments, mineral fillers, polymers.
- le pigment est choisi parmi le dioxyde de titane, le nitrure de bore, lâoxyde de zinc, les oxydes de zirconium ou de cĂ©rium, ainsi que les oxydes de fer ou de chrome, le violet de manganĂšse, le bleu outremer, l'hydrate de chrome et le bleu ferrique, et leurs mĂ©langes, le carmin, les dĂ©rivĂ©s de colorants azoĂŻques, ou encore un pigment laquĂ©, les substrats comprenant un oxyde mĂ©tallique tel que par exemple les nacres, les oxydes mĂ©talliques ayant subi un traitement minĂ©ral par exemple silice, alumine; les composites comprenant une bille de polymĂšre ou minĂ©rale dĂ©corĂ©e de pigments ; des ingrĂ©dients tels que des colorants absorbĂ©s sur des polysaccharides (chitosan, maltodextrine, cellulose, gomme xanthan, pullulan etc.), des colorants absorbĂ©s sur des polymĂšres synthĂ©tiques ou naturels tels que des acides polyhydroxyalcaniques ou des charges minĂ©rales adsorbĂ©s de colorant, et leurs mĂ©langes ;
- les charges minĂ©rales sont choisies parmi le talc, le mica, le kaolin, lâalumine, la silice, le carbonate de calcium, les argiles telles que les montmorillonites, les vermiculites ou encore les pyrophyllites, et leurs mĂ©langes ;
- les polymĂšres sont choisis parmi les polysaccharides, les polyamides, les acides polyhydroxyalcaniques, les polymĂšres dâacrylate, et leurs mĂ©langes ;
- et leurs mélanges.Composition according to claim 2, in which:
- the pigment is chosen from titanium dioxide, boron nitride, zinc oxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof, carmine, derivatives of azo dyes, or even a lacquered pigment, substrates comprising a metal oxide such as for example nacres, metal oxides having undergone mineral treatment by example silica, alumina; composites comprising a polymer or mineral ball decorated with pigments; ingredients such as dyes absorbed on polysaccharides (chitosan, maltodextrin, cellulose, xanthan gum, pullulan etc.), dyes absorbed on synthetic or natural polymers such as polyhydroxyalkanic acids or mineral fillers adsorbed as dyes, and mixtures thereof ;
- the mineral fillers are chosen from talc, mica, kaolin, alumina, silica, calcium carbonate, clays such as montmorillonites, vermiculites or even pyrophyllites, and their mixtures;
- the polymers are chosen from polysaccharides, polyamides, polyhydroxyalkanic acids, acrylate polymers, and mixtures thereof;
- and their mixtures.
- De 85 Ă 99% en poids de poudre ;
- De 1 Ă 15% en poids dâhuile de coco ou dâun macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans lâhuile de coco,
les pourcentages Ă©tant en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising:
- From 85 to 99% by weight of powder;
- From 1 to 15% by weight of coconut oil or Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil,
the percentages being by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- la pulvĂ©risation dâhuile de coco ou du macĂ©ra dâAloe Vera dans de lâhuile de coco Ă la surface des poudres ;
- le chauffage à une température comprise entre 30 et 120°C pour sécher la composition obtenue précédemment ;
- optionnellement une Ă©tape de micronisation ou broyage.Process for preparing a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising:
- spraying coconut oil or Aloe Vera macera in coconut oil on the surface of the powders;
- heating to a temperature between 30 and 120°C to dry the composition obtained previously;
- optionally a micronization or grinding step.
Priority Applications (2)
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FR2204783A FR3135621A1 (en) | 2022-05-19 | 2022-05-19 | Powder processing, manufacturing process, composition and use |
PCT/EP2023/063261 WO2023222764A1 (en) | 2022-05-19 | 2023-05-17 | Powder treatment, manufacturing method, composition and use |
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FR2204783A FR3135621A1 (en) | 2022-05-19 | 2022-05-19 | Powder processing, manufacturing process, composition and use |
FR2204783 | 2022-05-19 |
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EP0200839A1 (en) | 1984-03-12 | 1986-11-12 | Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. | Pigments and extender pigments which are surface-treated with hydrogenated lecithin, and cosmetics containing the same |
US4863800A (en) * | 1987-03-06 | 1989-09-05 | Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. | Surface-treated pigment material |
JP2004182679A (en) | 2002-12-05 | 2004-07-02 | Toshiki Pigment Kk | Surface-treated powder and cosmetic produced by using the treated powder |
WO2009126859A2 (en) * | 2008-04-11 | 2009-10-15 | Kobo Products Inc. | Natural ester, wax or oil treated pigment, process for production thereof, and cosmetic made therewith |
WO2010111279A1 (en) | 2009-03-23 | 2010-09-30 | Kobo Products, Inc. | Self-dispersible coated metal oxide powder, and process for production and use |
WO2013083701A1 (en) * | 2011-12-09 | 2013-06-13 | L'oreal | Composition based on red henna powder and oil(s), and hair dyeing process using this composition |
CN108542817A (en) * | 2018-05-03 | 2018-09-18 | æ”æ±èłćșććŠćæéć Źćž | A kind of cape jasmine flower pattern color make-up for being suitable for sensitive skin crowd and using |
CN108553317A (en) * | 2018-05-03 | 2018-09-21 | æ”æ±èłćșććŠćæéć Źćž | A kind of color make-up for being suitable for sensitive skin crowd and using |
CN113416434A (en) * | 2021-06-07 | 2021-09-21 | æ·źéŽć·„ćŠéą | Preparation method and application of vegetable oil modified titanium dioxide/Maya blue-like composite pigment |
-
2022
- 2022-05-19 FR FR2204783A patent/FR3135621A1/en active Pending
-
2023
- 2023-05-17 WO PCT/EP2023/063261 patent/WO2023222764A1/en unknown
Patent Citations (9)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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EP0200839A1 (en) | 1984-03-12 | 1986-11-12 | Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. | Pigments and extender pigments which are surface-treated with hydrogenated lecithin, and cosmetics containing the same |
US4863800A (en) * | 1987-03-06 | 1989-09-05 | Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. | Surface-treated pigment material |
JP2004182679A (en) | 2002-12-05 | 2004-07-02 | Toshiki Pigment Kk | Surface-treated powder and cosmetic produced by using the treated powder |
WO2009126859A2 (en) * | 2008-04-11 | 2009-10-15 | Kobo Products Inc. | Natural ester, wax or oil treated pigment, process for production thereof, and cosmetic made therewith |
WO2010111279A1 (en) | 2009-03-23 | 2010-09-30 | Kobo Products, Inc. | Self-dispersible coated metal oxide powder, and process for production and use |
WO2013083701A1 (en) * | 2011-12-09 | 2013-06-13 | L'oreal | Composition based on red henna powder and oil(s), and hair dyeing process using this composition |
CN108542817A (en) * | 2018-05-03 | 2018-09-18 | æ”æ±èłćșććŠćæéć Źćž | A kind of cape jasmine flower pattern color make-up for being suitable for sensitive skin crowd and using |
CN108553317A (en) * | 2018-05-03 | 2018-09-21 | æ”æ±èłćșććŠćæéć Źćž | A kind of color make-up for being suitable for sensitive skin crowd and using |
CN113416434A (en) * | 2021-06-07 | 2021-09-21 | æ·źéŽć·„ćŠéą | Preparation method and application of vegetable oil modified titanium dioxide/Maya blue-like composite pigment |
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