FR3127125A1 - USE OF A WATER-DISPERSIBLE TREATED INDIGO PIGMENT IN A COSMETIC EYELINER FORMULATION, METHOD FOR MAKING THE TREATED INDIGO PIGMENT AND CORRESPONDING EYE-LINER FORMULATION - Google Patents
USE OF A WATER-DISPERSIBLE TREATED INDIGO PIGMENT IN A COSMETIC EYELINER FORMULATION, METHOD FOR MAKING THE TREATED INDIGO PIGMENT AND CORRESPONDING EYE-LINER FORMULATION Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR3127125A1 FR3127125A1 FR2109819A FR2109819A FR3127125A1 FR 3127125 A1 FR3127125 A1 FR 3127125A1 FR 2109819 A FR2109819 A FR 2109819A FR 2109819 A FR2109819 A FR 2109819A FR 3127125 A1 FR3127125 A1 FR 3127125A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- mass
- parts
- water
- agent
- indigo pigment
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- COHYTHOBJLSHDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N indigo powder Natural products N1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C1=C1C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2N1 COHYTHOBJLSHDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 47
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 41
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 40
- 235000000177 Indigofera tinctoria Nutrition 0.000 title claims abstract description 39
- 229940097275 indigo Drugs 0.000 title claims abstract description 39
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 8
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title abstract description 6
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 229960005070 ascorbic acid Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 235000010323 ascorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000011668 ascorbic acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 21
- 239000002270 dispersing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000011230 binding agent Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycerol group Chemical group OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 6
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000013871 bee wax Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000012166 beeswax Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenoxyethanol Chemical compound OCCOC1=CC=CC=C1 QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- RGHNJXZEOKUKBD-SQOUGZDYSA-N D-gluconic acid Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C(O)=O RGHNJXZEOKUKBD-SQOUGZDYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004204 candelilla wax Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000013868 candelilla wax Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940073532 candelilla wax Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N hentriacontane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000000887 hydrating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000001856 Ethyl cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- ZZSNKZQZMQGXPY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl cellulose Chemical compound CCOCC1OC(OC)C(OCC)C(OCC)C1OC1C(O)C(O)C(OC)C(CO)O1 ZZSNKZQZMQGXPY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 241000976416 Isatis tinctoria subsp. canescens Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 241000221095 Simmondsia Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000004433 Simmondsia californica Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000015165 citric acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940071160 cocoate Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000019325 ethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001249 ethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000005456 glyceride group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000058 polyacrylate Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001515 polyalkylene glycol Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940043707 polyglyceryl-6 distearate Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000136 polysorbate Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940068965 polysorbates Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N (2r,4r,4as,6as,6as,6br,8ar,12ar,14as,14bs)-2-hydroxy-4,4a,6a,6b,8a,11,11,14a-octamethyl-2,4,5,6,6a,7,8,9,10,12,12a,13,14,14b-tetradecahydro-1h-picen-3-one Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@]2(C)CC[C@@]34C)C(C)(C)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]4CC[C@@]1(C)[C@H]3C[C@@H](O)C(=O)[C@@H]1C DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N (9Z)-octadecen-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-REOHCLBHSA-N (S)-malic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](O)CC(O)=O BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- SENMPMXZMGNQAG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3,4-dihydro-2,5-benzodioxocine-1,6-dione Chemical compound O=C1OCCOC(=O)C2=CC=CC=C12 SENMPMXZMGNQAG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002134 Carboxymethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920008347 Cellulose acetate propionate Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- RGHNJXZEOKUKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-gluconic acid Natural products OCC(O)C(O)C(O)C(O)C(O)=O RGHNJXZEOKUKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001800 Shellac Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N alpha-hydroxysuccinic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(O)CC(O)=O BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940092738 beeswax Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001768 carboxy methyl cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000010948 carboxy methyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000001732 carboxylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000008112 carboxymethyl-cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002301 cellulose acetate Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-UHFFFAOYSA-N cis-oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- PCYQQSKDZQTOQG-NXEZZACHSA-N dibutyl (2r,3r)-2,3-dihydroxybutanedioate Chemical compound CCCCOC(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C(=O)OCCCC PCYQQSKDZQTOQG-NXEZZACHSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000001125 extrusion Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000174 gluconic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000012208 gluconic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001023 inorganic pigment Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001630 malic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000011090 malic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000000465 moulding Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000012860 organic pigment Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- ZLGIYFNHBLSMPS-ATJNOEHPSA-N shellac Chemical compound OCCCCCC(O)C(O)CCCCCCCC(O)=O.C1C23[C@H](C(O)=O)CCC2[C@](C)(CO)[C@@H]1C(C(O)=O)=C[C@@H]3O ZLGIYFNHBLSMPS-ATJNOEHPSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004208 shellac Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000013874 shellac Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940113147 shellac Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 8
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 4
- 235000010356 sorbitol Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical group C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 3
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 150000002170 ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 150000002894 organic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 3
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical compound C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000015556 catabolic process Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000006731 degradation reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 2
- OWEGMIWEEQEYGQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 100676-05-9 Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OCC1C(O)C(O)C(O)C(OC2C(OC(O)C(O)C2O)CO)O1 OWEGMIWEEQEYGQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-KVTDHHQDSA-N D-Mannitol Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-KVTDHHQDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N Glucose Natural products OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000334154 Isatis tinctoria Species 0.000 description 1
- GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-PICCSMPSSA-N Maltose Natural products O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@@H](CO)OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-PICCSMPSSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229930195725 Mannitol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229920001213 Polysorbate 20 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- TVXBFESIOXBWNM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Xylitol Natural products OCCC(O)C(O)C(O)CCO TVXBFESIOXBWNM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005054 agglomeration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002776 aggregation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000013019 agitation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012736 aqueous medium Substances 0.000 description 1
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N beta-D-glucose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-QUYVBRFLSA-N beta-maltose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)O[C@@H]2CO)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-QUYVBRFLSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940073669 ceteareth 20 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940081733 cetearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000010790 dilution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012895 dilution Substances 0.000 description 1
- MPVXINJRXRIDDB-VCDGYCQFSA-N dodecanoic acid;(2r,3r,4r,5s)-hexane-1,2,3,4,5,6-hexol Chemical class OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O MPVXINJRXRIDDB-VCDGYCQFSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001301 ethoxy group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])O* 0.000 description 1
- 210000000720 eyelash Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000013020 final formulation Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008103 glucose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000001727 glucose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008187 granular material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000265 homogenisation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010348 incorporation Methods 0.000 description 1
- VQHSOMBJVWLPSR-WUJBLJFYSA-N maltitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]([C@H](O)CO)O[C@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O VQHSOMBJVWLPSR-WUJBLJFYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000845 maltitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010449 maltitol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940035436 maltitol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000594 mannitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010355 mannitol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N meso ribitol Natural products OCC(O)C(O)C(O)CO HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- NJTGANWAUPEOAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N molport-023-220-454 Chemical compound OCC(O)CO.OCC(O)CO NJTGANWAUPEOAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000256 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010486 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940068977 polysorbate 20 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ULWHHBHJGPPBCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N propane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCC(O)O ULWHHBHJGPPBCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000001105 regulatory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- -1 sorbitol anhydrides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000020354 squash Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000013112 stability test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000010215 titanium dioxide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000001988 toxicity Effects 0.000 description 1
- 231100000419 toxicity Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000010447 xylitol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000811 xylitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-SCDXWVJYSA-N xylitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-SCDXWVJYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960002675 xylitol Drugs 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
- A61K8/0275—Containing agglomerated particulates
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
- A61K2800/61—Surface treated
- A61K2800/612—By organic compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
- A61K2800/65—Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
- A61K2800/652—The particulate/core comprising organic material
Landscapes
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Pigments, Carbon Blacks, Or Wood Stains (AREA)
Abstract
------ UTILISATION D'UN PIGMENT INDIGO TRAITE HYDRODISPERSIBLE DANS UNE FORMULATION COSMETIQUE D’EYE-LINER, PROCEDE DE FABRICATION DU PIGMENT INDIGO AINSI TRAITE ET FORMULATION D’EYE-LINER CORRESPONDANTE Utilisation comme constituant d’une formulation d’eye-liner à base aqueuse d’un pigment indigo sec en agrégats et/ou agglomérats de particules traités hydrodispersibles en étant noyés dans un enrobage sec hydrodispersible, ledit enrobage contenant de l’acide ascorbique.------ USE OF A WATER-DISPERSIBLE TREATED INDIGO PIGMENT IN A COSMETIC EYE-LINER FORMULATION, METHOD FOR MAKING THE TREATED INDIGO PIGMENT THUS-TREATED AND CORRESPONDING EYE-LINER FORMULATION Use as a constituent of an eye formulation - water-based liner of a dry indigo pigment in aggregates and/or agglomerates of water-dispersible treated particles by being embedded in a water-dispersible dry coating, said coating containing ascorbic acid.
Description
La présente invention concerne les formulations aqueuses d’eye-liner, et, en particulier, l’utilisation d’un pigment indigo ayant subi un traitement particulier dans une telle formulation, un procédé de fabrication dudit pigment indigo ainsi traité, ainsi qu’une formulation aqueuse d’eye-liner le contenant.The present invention relates to aqueous eyeliner formulations, and, in particular, the use of an indigo pigment having undergone a particular treatment in such a formulation, a process for the manufacture of said indigo pigment thus treated, as well as a aqueous eyeliner formulation containing same.
On observe à l’heure actuelle que l’utilisation de composés organiques comme solvants/véhicules dans des formulations colorantes pour compositions cosmétiques d’eye-liners est de moins en moins acceptée ou du moins perçue négativement par les utilisateurs finals car les caractéristiques de ces composés organiques sont souvent décrites comme irritantes par contact cutané en quantités excessives. En outre, en raison de la toxicité plus ou moins grande de la quasi-totalité des composés organiques, leur utilisation est soumise à une augmentation des restrictions réglementaires. Il y aurait donc lieu de se tourner vers des eye-liners formulés avec un haut contenu aqueux.It is currently observed that the use of organic compounds as solvents/vehicles in coloring formulations for cosmetic eyeliner compositions is less and less accepted or at least perceived negatively by end users because the characteristics of these organic compounds are often described as irritating on skin contact in excessive amounts. In addition, due to the greater or lesser toxicity of almost all organic compounds, their use is subject to increased regulatory restrictions. It would therefore be appropriate to turn to eyeliners formulated with a high aqueous content.
Par ailleurs, les matières pigmentaires qui doivent entrer dans la formulation des eye-liners à haut contenu aqueux ne doivent pas faire obstacle aux propriétés recherchées pour un eye-liner cosmétiquement acceptable à savoir :Furthermore, the pigmentary materials which must enter into the formulation of eyeliners with a high aqueous content must not prevent the properties sought for a cosmetically acceptable eyeliner, namely:
- concernant le film : une application facile, une bonne adhérence aux cils ainsi qu’une bonne résistance ;concerning the film: easy application, good adhesion to the eyelashes as well as good resistance;
- concernant la couleur : des teintes et forces colorantes visées par rapport à une valeur cible ;concerning the color: intended tints and coloring strengths in relation to a target value;
- une stabilité de la formulation, la préparation ne devant pas rancir ni se dénaturer dans le récipient qui le contient.stability of the formulation, the preparation not having to go rancid or become denatured in the container which contains it.
La Société déposante a recherché une matière pigmentaire pour eye-liner, vouée à être traitée selon une méthode de préparation qui lui confère une propriété d’hydro-dispersibilité pour pouvoir être introduite à l’état sec dans un eye-liner à haute teneur aqueuse sans présenter de difficultés à ce stade de la fabrication de l’eye-liner, tout en n’influençant pas de façon défavorable les qualités recherchées pour un tel eye-liner et notamment la qualité de l’application recherchée et la stabilité de celui-ci.The applicant company has sought a pigmentary material for eyeliner, intended to be treated according to a method of preparation which gives it a water-dispersibility property in order to be able to be introduced in the dry state into an eyeliner with a high aqueous content. without presenting any difficulties at this stage of the manufacture of the eyeliner, while not adversely influencing the qualities sought for such an eyeliner and in particular the quality of the application sought and the stability of the latter this.
Son choix s’est porté sur le pigment indigo recherché pour sa couleur bleue. La Société déposante s’est alors aperçue qu’en milieu aqueux, le pigment indigo subissait une dégradation le rendant diluable dans l’eau, la couleur bleue initiale recherchée évoluant vers un jaune pâle verdâtre. Aussi bien cette dilution dans l’eau que cette couleur dégradée rendent l’indigo inacceptable dans une formulation d’eye-liner.His choice fell on the indigo pigment sought after for its blue color. The applicant company then noticed that in an aqueous medium, the indigo pigment underwent a degradation making it dilutable in water, the initial blue color sought evolving towards a pale greenish yellow. Both this dilution in water and this degraded color make indigo unacceptable in an eyeliner formulation.
La Société déposante a alors découvert d’une manière inattendue que l’incorporation d’acide ascorbique dans la formulation de l’indigo sec enrobé permet la conservation et donc la stabilité de la propriété tinctoriale du pigment indigo.The applicant company then discovered in an unexpected way that the incorporation of ascorbic acid in the formulation of the coated dry indigo allows the conservation and therefore the stability of the tinctorial property of the indigo pigment.
La présente invention a donc d’abord pour objet l’utilisation comme constituant d’une formulation d’eye-liner à base aqueuse d’un pigment indigo sec en agrégats et/ou ou agglomérats de particules traités hydrodispersibles en étant noyés dans un enrobage sec hydrodispersible, ledit enrobage contenant de l’acide ascorbique.The present invention therefore firstly relates to the use, as a constituent of an aqueous-based eyeliner formulation, of a dry indigo pigment in aggregates and/or or agglomerates of water-dispersible treated particles by being embedded in a coating water-dispersible dry, said coating containing ascorbic acid.
Le pigment indigo est notamment le bleu indigo naturel (NB1) (2-(1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-2H-indole-2-ylidène)-1,2-dihydro-3H-indole-3-one) produit à partir de plantes ou le pastel des teinturiers ouIsatis tinctoria.Indigo pigment includes natural indigo blue (NB1) (2-(1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-2H-indole-2-ylidene)-1,2-dihydro-3H-indole-3-one) produced from plants or dyer's woad or Isatis tinctoria .
L’acide ascorbique est présent notamment à raison de 1 à 3 parties en masse pour 100 parties en masse du pigment indigo sec enrobé.Ascorbic acid is present in particular at a rate of 1 to 3 parts by mass per 100 parts by mass of the coated dry indigo pigment.
La configuration externe et accessible de l’enrobage est totalement hydrophile et confère aux agrégats et agglomérats pigmentaires noyés dans ledit enrobage des propriétés d’affinité aqueuse similaires à ce dernier.The external and accessible configuration of the coating is completely hydrophilic and gives the pigment aggregates and agglomerates embedded in said coating aqueous affinity properties similar to the latter.
L’enrobage sec hydrodispersible comporte avantageusement :The water-dispersible dry coating advantageously comprises:
- au moins un liant présentant des fonctions hydrophiles, choisi notamment parmi les polyols, les polyalkylène glycols, les polysorbates, la carboxyméthyl cellulose, l’acétate de cellulose, l’acétate propionate de cellulose, le tartrate de dibutyle, le phtalate de diméthylène, la gomme laque et l’alcool oléïque ;at least one binder having hydrophilic functions, chosen in particular from polyols, polyalkylene glycols, polysorbates, carboxymethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate propionate, dibutyl tartrate, dimethylene phthalate, shellac and oleic alcohol;
- le cas échéant au moins un agent conférant une effervescence en présence d’eau, qui est notamment un mélange d’au moins un acide carboxylique, tel que l’acide gluconique, l’acide citrique ou l’acide malique, et de (bi)carbonate de sodium en proportions stœchiométriques ; etwhere appropriate, at least one agent conferring effervescence in the presence of water, which is in particular a mixture of at least one carboxylic acid, such as gluconic acid, citric acid or malic acid, and of (bi ) sodium carbonate in stoichiometric proportions; And
- le cas échéant au moins un agent dispersant choisi notamment parmi les composés polyéthoxylés d’alcools gras.where appropriate, at least one dispersing agent chosen in particular from polyethoxylated compounds of fatty alcohols.
Comme polyols pouvant entrer dans la composition dudit enrobage, on peut citer le propanediol, le glycérol, le sorbitol, le mannitol, le xylitol, le maltitol, le glucose, le maltose et leurs mélanges.As polyols that can enter into the composition of said coating, mention may be made of propanediol, glycerol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, maltitol, glucose, maltose and mixtures thereof.
Comme polyalkylène glycols pouvant entrer dans la composition dudit enrobage, on peut citer les polyéthylène glycols comme le diéthylène glycol.As polyalkylene glycols which can enter into the composition of said coating, mention may be made of polyethylene glycols such as diethylene glycol.
Comme polysorbates pouvant entrer dans la composition dudit enrobage, on peut citer le polysorbate 20 qui est un mélange d’esters de laurate de sorbitol ou d’anhydrides de sorbitol, formé majoritairement du monoester et condensé avec 20 moles d’oxyde d’éthylène.As polysorbates that can enter into the composition of said coating, mention may be made of polysorbate 20 which is a mixture of sorbitol laurate esters or sorbitol anhydrides, mainly formed from the monoester and condensed with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
Comme composés polyéthoxylés d’alcools gras pouvant entrer dans la composition dudit enrobage en tant qu’agent dispersant, on peut citer les alcools gras polyéthoxylés et les éthers oxyéthylénés d’alcools gras, comme un éther éthoxylé à 25 - 50 groupes éthoxy de l’alcool cétéarylique.As polyethoxylated compounds of fatty alcohols which can enter into the composition of said coating as a dispersing agent, mention may be made of polyethoxylated fatty alcohols and oxyethylenated ethers of fatty alcohols, such as an ethoxylated ether with 25-50 ethoxy groups of cetearyl alcohol.
En particulier, ledit pigment indigo sec enrobé peut comporter, pour 100 parties en masse :In particular, said coated dry indigo pigment may comprise, per 100 parts by mass:
- de 20 à 60 parties en masse d’enrobage sec hydrodispersible ; etfrom 20 to 60 parts by mass of water-dispersible dry coating; And
- de 80 à 40 parties en masse de pigment indigo.from 80 to 40 parts by mass of indigo pigment.
Les constituants dudit enrobage sont avantageusement choisis dans les plages suivantes :The constituents of said coating are advantageously chosen from the following ranges:
- de 6,6 à 17 parties en masse du ou des composants liants ;from 6.6 to 17 parts by mass of the binder component(s);
- jusqu’à 35 parties en masse, en particulier de 9 à 35 parties en masse du ou des agents conférant l’effervescence ;up to 35 parts by mass, in particular from 9 to 35 parts by mass of the agent(s) conferring the effervescence;
- jusqu’à 18 parties en masse, en particulier de 3,3 à 18 parties en masse du ou des dispersants ; etup to 18 parts by mass, in particular from 3.3 to 18 parts by mass of the dispersant(s); And
- de 1 à 3 parties en masse d’acide ascorbique.from 1 to 3 parts by mass of ascorbic acid.
toutes les parties en masse dudit enrobage étant indiquées par rapport au pigment indigo sec enrobé.all parts by weight of said coating being given with respect to coated dry indigo pigment.
Les agrégats / agglomérats d’indigo traités hydrodispersibles ont notamment une granulométrie moyenne de 0,2 à 1 mm, en particulier de 0,3 à 0,8 mm.The water-dispersible treated indigo aggregates / agglomerates have in particular an average particle size of 0.2 to 1 mm, in particular 0.3 to 0.8 mm.
La présente invention a également pour objet un procédé de fabrication d’un pigment indigo, utilisable comme constituant d’une formulation d’eye-liner à base aqueuse telle que définie ci-dessus, caractérisé par le fait que :The present invention also relates to a process for the manufacture of an indigo pigment, which can be used as a constituent of a water-based eyeliner formulation as defined above, characterized in that:
- on mélange à sec des agrégats/agglomérats de particules de pigment indigo avec au moins un liant pulvérulent, le cas échéant avec au moins un agent pulvérulent conférant une effervescence en présence d’eau, le cas échéant avec au moins un agent dispersant pulvérulent, et avec de l’acide ascorbique, le ou les liants étant capables de fondre à une température supérieure à la température ambiante, en particulier supérieure à 35°C, puisaggregates/agglomerates of indigo pigment particles are dry-mixed with at least one pulverulent binder, optionally with at least one pulverulent agent conferring effervescence in the presence of water, optionally with at least one pulverulent dispersing agent, and with ascorbic acid, the binder(s) being capable of melting at a temperature above room temperature, in particular above 35° C., then
- on chauffe le mélange ainsi obtenu pour faire fondre le ou les liants et obtenir un liquide, lequel est mis en forme par moulage, notamment par extrusion au cours de son refroidissement, ou est amené à précipiter sous forme d’agrégats/agglomérats de particules lors de son refroidissement.the mixture thus obtained is heated to melt the binder(s) and obtain a liquid, which is shaped by molding, in particular by extrusion during its cooling, or is caused to precipitate in the form of aggregates/agglomerates of particles during of its cooling.
La présente invention a enfin pour objet une formulation d’eye-liner à base aqueuse, caractérisée par le fait qu’elle comprend :The present invention finally relates to an aqueous-based eyeliner formulation, characterized in that it comprises:
- de l’eau, à raison notamment de 70 à 80 parties en masse ;water, in particular at a rate of 70 to 80 parts by mass;
- au moins un agent humectant/hydratant, à raison notamment de 3 à 4 parties en masse ;at least one humectant/hydrating agent, in particular at a rate of 3 to 4 parts by mass;
- au moins un agent gélifiant, à raison notamment de 1 à 2 parties en masse ;at least one gelling agent, in particular at a rate of 1 to 2 parts by mass;
- au moins un agent émulsionnant, en particulier un agent émulsionnant E/H, à raison notamment de 1 à 3 parties en masse ;at least one emulsifying agent, in particular a W/O emulsifying agent, in a proportion in particular of 1 to 3 parts by mass;
- au moins un agent de consistance, à raison notamment de 3 à 5 parties en masse ;at least one consistency agent, in particular at a rate of 3 to 5 parts by mass;
- au moins un agent surfactant, à raison notamment de 2 à 3 parties en masse ;at least one surfactant, in particular at a rate of 2 to 3 parts by mass;
- au moins un agent dispersant, à raison notamment de 3 à 5 parties en masse ;at least one dispersing agent, in particular at a rate of 3 to 5 parts by mass;
- au moins un agent conservateur, à raison notamment de 0,5 à 1 partie en masse ;at least one preservative, in particular at a rate of 0.5 to 1 part by mass;
- au moins un agent filmogène, à raison notamment de 2 à 5 parties en masse ;at least one film-forming agent, in particular at a rate of 2 to 5 parts by mass;
- au moins un pigment indigo traité hydrodispersible tel que défini ci-dessus ou tel que préparé par le procédé ci-dessus, à raison notamment de 3 à 10 parties en masse ; etat least one water-dispersible treated indigo pigment as defined above or as prepared by the above process, in particular at a rate of 3 to 10 parts by mass; And
- le cas échéant, jusqu’à 10 parties en masse d’au moins un autre pigment, ledit autre pigment, éventuellement noyé dans un enrobage sec hydrodispersible, étant notamment choisi parmi les pigments organiques et minéraux ;where appropriate, up to 10 parts by mass of at least one other pigment, said other pigment, optionally embedded in a water-dispersible dry coating, being chosen in particular from organic and inorganic pigments;
les parties en masse étant indiquées pour 100 parties en masse de la formulation.the parts by mass being indicated per 100 parts by mass of the formulation.
En particulier,Especially,
- l’agent humectant/hydratant peut être le glycérol ; et/outhe humectant/hydrating agent may be glycerol; and or
- le ou les agents émulsionnants E/H peut ou peuvent être choisi(s) parmi le polyglycéryl-6 distéarate, les esters de jojoba, le polyglycéryl-3 cire d’abeille, l’alcool cétylique ; et/outhe W/O emulsifier(s) may be chosen from polyglyceryl-6 distearate, jojoba esters, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, cetyl alcohol; and or
- l’agent gélifiant peut être le polymère croisé-6 de polyacrylate ; et/outhe gelling agent may be polyacrylate cross-polymer-6; and or
- le ou les agents de consistance peut ou peuvent être choisi(s) parmi l’ozokérite, la cire de Carnauda, la cire de Candellila, la cire d’abeille et l’alcool cétylique ; et/outhe consistency agent(s) may be chosen from ozokerite, Carnauda wax, Candelilla wax, beeswax and cetyl alcohol; and or
- le ou les agents surfactants peut ou peuvent être choisi(s) parmi les glycérides capryliques/capriques ; et/outhe surfactant(s) may be chosen from caprylic/capric glycerides; and or
- le ou les agents dispersants peut ou peuvent être choisi(s) parmi l’alcool isostéarylique, le butylène glycol cocoate et l’éthylcellulose ; et/outhe dispersing agent(s) may be chosen from isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate and ethylcellulose; and or
- le ou les agents filmogènes peut ou peuvent être choisi(s) parmi les copolymères d’acrylate ; et/outhe film-forming agent(s) may be chosen from acrylate copolymers; and or
- l’agent conservateur peut être choisi parmi le phénoxyéthanol/éthylhexylglycérol.the preservative can be chosen from phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerol.
Les Exemples suivants illustrent la présente invention sans toutefois en limiter la portée. Dans ces Exemples, les pourcentages indiqués sont des pourcentages en masse.The following Examples illustrate the present invention without however limiting its scope. In these Examples, the percentages indicated are percentages by mass.
Exemple 1 (de l’invention):Préparation d’indigo traité hydrodispersible par un enrobage Example 1 (of the invention) : Preparation of water-dispersible treated indigo by a coating
On a préparé un agent effervescent par mélange de 6,67 g d’acide citrique et de 3,33 g de carbonate de sodium sous forme cristalline (proportions stœchiométriques).An effervescent agent was prepared by mixing 6.67 g of citric acid and 3.33 g of sodium carbonate in crystalline form (stoichiometric proportions).
On a ensuite mélangé à sec 80 g d’indigo naturel avec 9 g de l’agent effervescent ainsi préparé, 3,33 g de céteareth-20 (éther polyéthoxylé à 20 motifs d’oxyde d’éthylène d’un mélange d’alcool cétylique et d’alcool stéarylique), 6,67 g de sorbitol et 1,00 g d’acide ascorbique.80 g of natural indigo were then dry-mixed with 9 g of the effervescent agent thus prepared, 3.33 g of ceteareth-20 (polyethoxylated ether with 20 ethylene oxide units of a mixture of alcohol cetyl and stearyl alcohol), 6.67 g of sorbitol and 1.00 g of ascorbic acid.
On a chauffé ce mélange à une température de 100°C pour faire fondre le sorbitol, puis on a laissé refroidir le mélange ainsi obtenu en le soumettant à une agitation modérée jusqu’à complet refroidissement pour éviter l’agglomération en blocs.This mixture was heated to a temperature of 100°C to melt the sorbitol, then the mixture thus obtained was left to cool by subjecting it to moderate stirring until complete cooling to prevent agglomeration into blocks.
On a ensuite tamisé les granulés ainsi obtenus à la granulométrie indiquée.The granules thus obtained were then sieved to the indicated particle size.
On a obtenu un indigo naturel traité hydrophile à une concentration pigmentaire de 80%, avec un diamètre médian de 1,93 µm, un diamètre moyen de 2,60 µm et un écart-type de 2,13 µm.A hydrophilic treated natural indigo was obtained at a pigmentary concentration of 80%, with a median diameter of 1.93 μm, an average diameter of 2.60 μm and a standard deviation of 2.13 μm.
Exemple 2 : Préparation d’une formulation d’eye-liner à base aqueuse formulé à partir du pigment indigo traité hydrophile de l’Exemple 1Example 2: Preparation of a water-based eyeliner formulation formulated from the hydrophilic treated indigo pigment of Example 1
*Nomenclature des produits cosmétiques*Cosmetic Product Nomenclature
Dispersant
dispersant
*Nomenclature des produits cosmétiques*Cosmetic Product Nomenclature
*Nomenclature des produits cosmétiques*Cosmetic Product Nomenclature
Préparation de la phase APreparation of phase A
On a mélangé les trois ingrédients de la phase A sous agitation et en chauffant à 70°C.The three phase A ingredients were mixed with stirring and heating to 70°C.
Préparation de la phase BPreparation of phase B
On a mélangé les quatre ingrédients de la phase B sous agitation en chauffant à 70°C.The four ingredients of phase B were mixed under agitation while heating to 70°C.
Préparation de la formulation finalePreparation of the final formulation
On a ajouté la phase B à la phase A. Lorsque le mélange était à 40°C, on a ajouté la phase C, ingrédient par ingrédient, sous agitation, jusqu’à ce que le pigment indigo se soit dispersé dans la formulation.Phase B was added to phase A. When the mixture was at 40°C, phase C was added, ingredient by ingredient, with stirring, until the indigo pigment had dispersed into the formulation.
On a versé la formulation dans un moule cylindrique équipé d’un pinceau au niveau de son dispositif de fermeture, le dit cylindre pouvant contenir une bille métallique pour en assurer une parfaite homogénéisation lors de l’utilisation par secouage manuel.The formulation was poured into a cylindrical mold equipped with a brush at its closing device, said cylinder possibly containing a metal ball to ensure perfect homogenization during use by manual shaking.
Exemple 3:Tests d’usage Example 3 : Usability testing
L’utilisation de la préparation obtenue permet une application facile et efficace tant au niveau du recouvrement que de l’intensité coloristique.The use of the preparation obtained allows easy and effective application both in terms of coverage and color intensity.
Des ajustements de teinte sont possibles par mélange du pigment avec d’autres pigments.Shade adjustments are possible by mixing the pigment with other pigments.
L’éclaircissement de la teinte vers une teinte plus mate et pastel peut être envisagée par incorporation de blanc de titane.The lightening of the shade towards a more matte and pastel shade can be envisaged by incorporating titanium white.
Exemple 4:Tests de stabilité Example 4 : Stability tests
Il n’a pas été observé de dégradation visuelle du pigment indigo de la formulation au bout de 2 semaines à 45°C.No visual degradation of the indigo pigment of the formulation was observed after 2 weeks at 45°C.
Claims (10)
- au moins un liant présentant des fonctions hydrophiles, choisi notamment parmi les polyols, les polyalkylène glycols, les polysorbates, la carboxyméthyl cellulose, l’acétate de cellulose, l’acétate propionate de cellulose, le tartrate de dibutyle, le phtalate de diméthylène, la gomme laque et l’alcool oléïque ;
- le cas échéant au moins un agent conférant une effervescence en présence d’eau, qui est notamment un mélange d’au moins un acide carboxylique, tel que l’acide gluconique, l’acide citrique ou l’acide malique et de (bi)carbonate de sodium en proportions stœchiométriques ; et
- le cas échéant au moins un agent dispersant choisi notamment parmi les composés polyéthoxylés d’alcools gras.
- at least one binder having hydrophilic functions, chosen in particular from polyols, polyalkylene glycols, polysorbates, carboxymethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate propionate, dibutyl tartrate, dimethylene phthalate, shellac and oleic alcohol;
- where appropriate at least one agent conferring effervescence in the presence of water, which is in particular a mixture of at least one carboxylic acid, such as gluconic acid, citric acid or malic acid and of (bi) sodium carbonate in stoichiometric proportions; And
- where appropriate, at least one dispersing agent chosen in particular from polyethoxylated compounds of fatty alcohols.
- de 20 à 60 parties en masse d’enrobage sec hydrodispersible ; et
- de 80 à 40 parties en masse de pigment indigo.
- from 20 to 60 parts by mass of water-dispersible dry coating; And
- from 80 to 40 parts by mass of indigo pigment.
- de 6,6 à 17 parties en masse du ou des composants liants ;
- jusqu’à 35 parties en masse, en particulier de 9 à 35 parties en masse du ou des agents conférant l’effervescence ;
- jusqu’à 18 parties en masse, en particulier de 3,3 à 18 parties en masse du ou des dispersants ; et
- de 1 à 3 parties en masse d’acide ascorbique,
- from 6.6 to 17 parts by mass of the binder component(s);
- up to 35 parts by mass, in particular from 9 to 35 parts by mass of the effervescent agent(s);
- up to 18 parts by mass, in particular from 3.3 to 18 parts by mass of the dispersant(s); And
- from 1 to 3 parts by mass of ascorbic acid,
- on mélange à sec des agrégats/agglomérats de particules de pigment indigo avec au moins un liant pulvérulent, le cas échéant avec au moins un agent pulvérulent conférant une effervescence en présence d’eau, le cas échéant avec au moins un agent dispersant pulvérulent, et avec de l’acide ascorbique, le ou les liants étant capables de fondre à une température supérieure à la température ambiante, en particulier supérieure à 35 °C, puis
- on chauffe le mélange ainsi obtenu pour faire fondre le ou les liants et obtenir un liquide, lequel est mis en forme par moulage, notamment par extrusion au cours de son refroidissement, ou est amené à précipiter sous forme d’agrégats/agglomérats de particules lors de son refroidissement.
- aggregates/agglomerates of indigo pigment particles are dry-mixed with at least one pulverulent binder, optionally with at least one pulverulent agent conferring effervescence in the presence of water, optionally with at least one pulverulent dispersing agent, and with ascorbic acid, the binder(s) being capable of melting at a temperature above room temperature, in particular above 35°C, then
- the mixture thus obtained is heated to melt the binder(s) and obtain a liquid, which is shaped by molding, in particular by extrusion during its cooling, or is caused to precipitate in the form of aggregates/agglomerates of particles during of its cooling.
- de l’eau, à raison notamment de 70 à 80 parties en masse ;
- au moins un agent humectant/hydratant, à raison notamment de 3 à 4 parties en masse ;
- au moins un agent gélifiant, à raison notamment de 1 à 2 parties en masse ;
- au moins un agent émulsionnant, en particulier un agent émulsionnant E/H, à raison notamment de 1 à 3 parties en masse ;
- au moins un agent de consistance, à raison notamment de 3 à 5 parties en masse ;
- au moins un agent surfactant, à raison notamment de 2 à 3 parties en masse ;
- au moins un agent dispersant, à raison notamment de 3 à 5 parties en masse ;
- au moins un agent conservateur, à raison notamment de 0,5 à 1 partie en masse ;
- au moins un agent filmogène, à raison notamment de 2 à 5 parties en masse ;
- au moins un pigment indigo traité hydrodispersible tel que défini à l’une des revendications 1 à 7 ou tel que préparé par le procédé défini à la revendication 8, à raison notamment de 3 à 10 parties en masse ; et
- le cas échéant, jusqu’à 10 parties en masse d’au moins un autre pigment, ledit autre pigment, éventuellement noyé dans un enrobage sec hydrodispersible, étant notamment choisi parmi les pigments organiques et minéraux ;
- water, in particular at a rate of 70 to 80 parts by mass;
- at least one humectant/hydrating agent, in particular at a rate of 3 to 4 parts by mass;
- at least one gelling agent, in particular at a rate of 1 to 2 parts by mass;
- at least one emulsifying agent, in particular a W/O emulsifying agent, in a proportion in particular of 1 to 3 parts by mass;
- at least one consistency agent, in particular at a rate of 3 to 5 parts by mass;
- at least one surfactant, in particular at a rate of 2 to 3 parts by mass;
- at least one dispersing agent, in particular at a rate of 3 to 5 parts by mass;
- at least one preservative, in particular at a rate of 0.5 to 1 part by mass;
- at least one film-forming agent, in particular at a rate of 2 to 5 parts by mass;
- at least one water-dispersible treated indigo pigment as defined in one of claims 1 to 7 or as prepared by the process defined in claim 8, in particular at a rate of 3 to 10 parts by mass; And
- where appropriate, up to 10 parts by mass of at least one other pigment, said other pigment, optionally embedded in a water-dispersible dry coating, being chosen in particular from organic and inorganic pigments;
- l’agent humectant/hydratant est le glycérol ; et/ou
- le ou les agents émulsionnants E/H est ou sont choisi(s) parmi le polyglycéryl-6 distéarate, les esters de jojoba, le polyglycéryl-3 cire d’abeille, l’alcool cétylique ; et/ou
- l’agent gélifiant est le polymère croisé-6 de polyacrylate ; et/ou
- le ou les agents de consistance est ou sont choisi(s) parmi l’ozokérite, la cire de Carnauda, la cire de Candellila, la cire d’abeille et l’alcool cétylique ; et/ou
- le ou les agents surfactants est ou sont choisi(s) parmi les glycérides capryliques/capriques ; et/ou
- le ou les agents dispersants est ou sont choisi(s) parmi l’alcool isostéarylique, le butylène glycol cocoate et l’éthylcellulose ; et/ou
- le ou les agents filmogènes est ou sont choisi(s) parmi les copolymères d’acrylate ; et/ou
- l’agent conservateur est choisi parmi le phénoxyéthanol/éthylhexylglycérol.
- the humectant/hydrating agent is glycerol; and or
- the W/O emulsifier(s) is or are chosen from polyglyceryl-6 distearate, jojoba esters, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, cetyl alcohol; and or
- the gelling agent is polyacrylate cross-polymer-6; and or
- the consistency agent(s) is or are chosen from ozokerite, Carnauda wax, Candelilla wax, beeswax and cetyl alcohol; and or
- the surfactant(s) is or are chosen from caprylic/capric glycerides; and or
- the dispersing agent(s) is or are chosen from isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate and ethylcellulose; and or
- the film-forming agent(s) is (are) chosen from acrylate copolymers; and or
- the preservative is chosen from phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerol.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR2109819A FR3127125B1 (en) | 2021-09-17 | 2021-09-17 | USE OF A WATER-DISPERSIBLE PROCESSED INDIGO PIGMENT IN A COSMETIC EYE-LINER FORMULATION, METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING THE INDIGO PIGMENT THUS TREATED AND CORRESPONDING EYE-LINER FORMULATION |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR2109819 | 2021-09-17 | ||
| FR2109819A FR3127125B1 (en) | 2021-09-17 | 2021-09-17 | USE OF A WATER-DISPERSIBLE PROCESSED INDIGO PIGMENT IN A COSMETIC EYE-LINER FORMULATION, METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING THE INDIGO PIGMENT THUS TREATED AND CORRESPONDING EYE-LINER FORMULATION |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| FR3127125A1 true FR3127125A1 (en) | 2023-03-24 |
| FR3127125B1 FR3127125B1 (en) | 2024-05-10 |
Family
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR2109819A Active FR3127125B1 (en) | 2021-09-17 | 2021-09-17 | USE OF A WATER-DISPERSIBLE PROCESSED INDIGO PIGMENT IN A COSMETIC EYE-LINER FORMULATION, METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING THE INDIGO PIGMENT THUS TREATED AND CORRESPONDING EYE-LINER FORMULATION |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR3127125B1 (en) |
Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP0225948B1 (en) * | 1985-12-09 | 1991-03-20 | CROMPTON & KNOWLES CORPORATION | Dry pigment system |
| WO1999028390A1 (en) * | 1997-12-04 | 1999-06-10 | Marconi Data Systems Inc. | Method of making pigment with increased hydrophilic properties |
| WO2002003967A1 (en) * | 2000-07-07 | 2002-01-17 | Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques (S.E.P.P.I.C.) | Film-coating composition based on cellulose derivatives and sugar alcohols |
| WO2008011963A2 (en) * | 2006-07-25 | 2008-01-31 | Clariant Finance (Bvi) Limited | Coloured aqueous polymer dispersions, and production and use of same |
| WO2018173901A1 (en) * | 2017-03-24 | 2018-09-27 | 東洋インキＳｃホールディングス株式会社 | Coated pigment, aqueous pigment dispersion, use thereof, and production method therefor |
-
2021
- 2021-09-17 FR FR2109819A patent/FR3127125B1/en active Active
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP0225948B1 (en) * | 1985-12-09 | 1991-03-20 | CROMPTON & KNOWLES CORPORATION | Dry pigment system |
| WO1999028390A1 (en) * | 1997-12-04 | 1999-06-10 | Marconi Data Systems Inc. | Method of making pigment with increased hydrophilic properties |
| WO2002003967A1 (en) * | 2000-07-07 | 2002-01-17 | Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques (S.E.P.P.I.C.) | Film-coating composition based on cellulose derivatives and sugar alcohols |
| WO2008011963A2 (en) * | 2006-07-25 | 2008-01-31 | Clariant Finance (Bvi) Limited | Coloured aqueous polymer dispersions, and production and use of same |
| WO2018173901A1 (en) * | 2017-03-24 | 2018-09-27 | 東洋インキＳｃホールディングス株式会社 | Coated pigment, aqueous pigment dispersion, use thereof, and production method therefor |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR3127125B1 (en) | 2024-05-10 |
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