FR2946532A1 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, useful to treat skin aging, comprises product for fermentation of Botrytis cinerea in combination or in mixed with an excipient or inert non-toxic vehicle - Google Patents
Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, useful to treat skin aging, comprises product for fermentation of Botrytis cinerea in combination or in mixed with an excipient or inert non-toxic vehicle Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2946532A1 FR2946532A1 FR0902920A FR0902920A FR2946532A1 FR 2946532 A1 FR2946532 A1 FR 2946532A1 FR 0902920 A FR0902920 A FR 0902920A FR 0902920 A FR0902920 A FR 0902920A FR 2946532 A1 FR2946532 A1 FR 2946532A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic
- botrytis
- botrytis cinerea
- fermentation
- excipient
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
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- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
La présente invention se rapporte au domaine des nécessités de la vie et plus particulièrement au domaine des soins de la peau. The present invention relates to the field of the necessities of life and more particularly to the field of skin care.
Elle a plus particulièrement pour objet des compositions dermatologiques et/ou cosmétiques destinées à traiter ou à améliorer les problèmes liés au vieillissement de la peau. More particularly, it relates to dermatological and / or cosmetic compositions for treating or ameliorating problems related to aging of the skin.
Elle a spécifiquement pour objet des compositions cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques à base d'un produit de fermentation de Botrytis et plus particulièrement de Botrytis cinerea en mélange ou en dispersion dans un excipient ou un véhicule inerte, non toxique, compatible dermatologiquement. Utilisation d'un fermentat de Botrytis cinerea en dermo cosmétique. Botrytis cinerea est un champignon, appartenant au genre Botrytis et à l'espèce cinerea. Cette souche est ubiquitaire et saprophyte sur différents organes végétaux. (Carbohydrate Research, 1981, 93, 294). Ce microorganisme contribue à l'obtention de certains vins liquoreux, grâce notamment à la faculté qu'il possède, de synthétiser des composés aromatiques particuliers (Revue Française d'oenologie, 1999, 176, 32 ; Food Chemistry, 2007, 103, 536 ; Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 2007, 55, 1437). Ce champignon produit des molécules très variées et spécifiques.11 est parfaitement connu que Botrytis cinerea fabrique des polysaccharides de type Beta (1-3) (1-6) glucanes pouvant atteindre de l'ordre de 5000 unités glucose. (Revue Française d'oenologie, 2001, 187, 14). On sait également que ce microorganisme est capable de produire de l'acide abscissique. (Agric. Biol. Chem. 1982, 46, 1967, Brevet JP2060590). It relates specifically to cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions based on a fermentation product of Botrytis and more particularly Botrytis cinerea mixed or dispersed in an excipient or an inert vehicle, non-toxic, dermatologically compatible. Use of Botrytis cinerea fermentate in cosmetic dermo. Botrytis cinerea is a fungus, belonging to the genus Botrytis and the species cinerea. This strain is ubiquitous and saprophyte on different plant organs. (Carbohydrate Research, 1981, 93, 294). This microorganism contributes to the production of certain sweet wines, thanks in particular to the faculty it possesses, to synthesize particular aromatic compounds (Revue Française d'oenologie, 1999, 176, 32, Food Chemistry, 2007, 103, 536; Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 2007, 55, 1437). This fungus produces highly varied and specific molecules. It is well known that Botrytis cinerea manufactures Beta (1-3) (1-6) glucan type polysaccharides up to about 5000 glucose units. (French Journal of Oenology, 2001, 187, 14). It is also known that this microorganism is capable of producing abscisic acid. (Agric Biol Chem 1982, 46, 1967, JP2060590).
Ce champignon ne pousse que dans des conditions très particulières. De nombreuses molécules de synthèse ou produites par d'autres microorganismes sont couramment utilisées pour limiter ou empêcher son développement car sa présence peut présenter des inconvénients. On peut par exemple citer les microorganismes de type Fusarium qui produisent des molécules ayant des effets antifongiques (Fusafungines) en particulier contre Botrytis. (Brevet WO932244). De la même façon, des microorganismes issus de l'espèce des Curvularia produisent des peptides cycliques ayant des propriétés antifongiques très marquées contre Botrytis. (Brevet WO9205191). On a également mentionné des molécules inhibtrices type lactones et polylactones (Brevet WO9406788). Des composés simples dérivés de la tyrosine inhibent également la croissance de Botrytis. (Brevet JP2006131587). Les rhamnolipides produits par une souche bactérienne de type Pseudomonas aeruginosa constituent des composés inhibants pour la croissance de Botrytis (Plant Cell and Environment, 2009, 32, 178). This mushroom only grows under very particular conditions. Many synthetic molecules or produced by other microorganisms are commonly used to limit or prevent its development because its presence may have disadvantages. For example, the Fusarium-type microorganisms that produce molecules having antifungal effects (Fusafungines), in particular against Botrytis, can be mentioned. (Patent WO932244). In the same way, microorganisms from the Curvularia species produce cyclic peptides with very strong antifungal properties against Botrytis. (Patent WO9205191). Lactone and polylactone inhibitory molecules have also been mentioned (Patent WO9406788). Simple compounds derived from tyrosine also inhibit the growth of Botrytis. (Patent JP2006131587). Rhamnolipids produced by a bacterial strain of Pseudomonas aeruginosa are inhibitory compounds for the growth of Botrytis (Plant Cell and Environment, 2009, 32, 178).
Les molécules de type polyphénols ont été particulièrement évoquées dans la littérature comme inhibiteur pour Botrytis. Ainsi des proanthocyanidines sont citées pour détruire Botrytis (brevet WO2009026179). Il en est de même avec les flavonols (Brevet 2009026176). Dans la famille des polyphénols, des phytoalexines de type stilbene comme le resvératrol ont aussi montré un effet limitant fortement la croissance de Botrytis cinerea. (J. Phytopathology 1990 129 102) . The polyphenol type molecules have been particularly mentioned in the literature as an inhibitor for Botrytis. Thus proanthocyanidins are cited to destroy Botrytis (patent WO2009026179). It is the same with flavonols (Patent 2009026176). In the polyphenol family, stilbene-like phytoalexins such as resveratrol have also shown a strong limiting effect on the growth of Botrytis cinerea. (J. Phytopathology 1990 129 102).
Les auteurs de ces travaux ont constaté fortuitement que le résultat de la fermentation par Botrytis cinerea ou le résultat d'un biofermentat parfaitement contrôlé obtenu avec Botrytis cine- rea présentait des applications dans le domaine cutané et en particulier dans des applications cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques en prévention du vieillissement cutané. Des applications dans l'anti-âge ont ainsi été montrées. The authors of this work have fortuitously found that the result of fermentation by Botrytis cinerea or the result of a perfectly controlled biofermentat obtained with Botrytis cine-rea presented applications in the dermal field and in particular in cosmetic and / or dermatological applications. in prevention of skin aging. Anti-aging applications have been shown.
Une modification par Botrytis cinerea de ces composés de type polyphénolique induit de nouvelles molécules qui vont neutraliser la croissance du champignon ou même le détruire. Ceci est particulièrement vrai pour le resvératrol qui est transformé en une famille de molécules connues sous le nom de viniférine. Le passage du resvératrol en viniférine s'effectue par l'intermédiaire d'une laccase. (FEMS microbiology letters, 1998,167,203). La vérification de cette hypothèse a été réalisée en isolant le gêne de cette laccase Bcicc2 (Molecular microbiology 2002, 43, 883). En résumé, lorsque le champignon de type Botrytis cinerea est en contact avec des molécules de type polyphénols, il les transforme pour s'auto intoxiquer et en même temps, il les convertit en d'autres molécules aromatiques. Le resvératrol peut aussi sous forme glycosylée présenter cet effet fongicide (J. Agric. Food Chem.2003,51,1464). A modification by Botrytis cinerea of these polyphenolic compounds induces new molecules that will neutralize the growth of the fungus or even destroy it. This is especially true for resveratrol which is transformed into a family of molecules known as viniferine. The passage of resveratrol into viniferine takes place via laccase. (FEMS microbiology letters, 1998, 167,203). The verification of this hypothesis was carried out by isolating the gene from this Bcicc2 laccase (Molecular microbiology 2002, 43, 883). In summary, when the Botrytis cinerea mushroom is in contact with polyphenol-like molecules, it transforms them into self-poisoning and at the same time converts them into other aromatic molecules. Resveratrol may also in glycosylated form exhibit this fungicidal effect (J. Agric Food Chem.2003,51,1464).
Toutes ces publications montrent qu'un biofermentat issu de ce champignon n'est pas aisé à réaliser et il est nécessaire d'être particulièrement attentif au milieu et aux conditions de culture à employer pour qu'il n'y ait pas d'interférence entre ce milieu et la croissance de Botrytis cinerea. All these publications show that a biofermentate resulting from this fungus is not easy to achieve and it is necessary to be particularly attentive to the environment and culture conditions to be used so that there is no interference between this medium and the growth of Botrytis cinerea.
Les Demandeurs ont constaté que le résultat de la fermentation par Botrytis cinerea ou le résultat d'un biofermentat parfaitement contrôlé obtenu avec Botrytis cinerea présentait des applications dans le domaine cutané et en particulier dans des applications cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques en prévention du vieillissement cutané. Des applications dans l'anti-âge ont aussi été montrées. The Applicants have found that the result of fermentation by Botrytis cinerea or the result of a perfectly controlled biofermentat obtained with Botrytis cinerea presented applications in the dermal field and in particular in cosmetic and / or dermatological applications in the prevention of cutaneous aging. Anti-aging applications have also been shown.
Pour la réalisation de compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques de l'invention, on mélange ou on disperse une prise d'essai de produit de fermentation de Botrytis cinerea avec une phase lipidique émulsionnante. On dilue ensuite avec un agent épaississant et on parfume ou aromatise la préparation finale avec un parfum, un agent colorant, un agent conservateur, une préparation qui améliore le toucher,un agent antibactérien, un agent émulsionnant et/ou un agent communiquant un aspect nacré. Le produit de fermentation de Botrytis cinerea peut en outre être additionné d'un autre principe actif d'action semblable ou synergique. For the production of cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the invention, a test portion of fermentation product of Botrytis cinerea is mixed with or dispersed with an emulsifying lipid phase. It is then diluted with a thickening agent and perfumes or aromatizes the final preparation with a perfume, a coloring agent, a preservative, a preparation which improves the feel, an antibacterial agent, an emulsifying agent and / or an agent imparting a pearlescent appearance . The fermentation product of Botrytis cinerea may also be added with another active ingredient of similar or synergistic action.
Parmi les parfums utilisables pour de telles compositions, on pourra citer la préparation Parfum 40119-01 de la société Synarome, le parfum Flashy de la société Synarome, l'arôme orange ou mandarine, l'arôme floral de la société Robertet, l'arôme lilas de la société Expressions parfumées, l'arôme rose de la société Robertet. Among the perfumes that can be used for such compositions, mention may be made of the Parfum 40119-01 preparation from the Synarome company, the Flashy fragrance from the Synarome company, the orange or mandarin aroma, the Robertet floral aroma, the aroma lilac of the company Expressions perfumed, the pink aroma of Robertet society.
Parmi les arômes que l'on peut ajouter aux compositions de l'invention, on pourra citer l'arôme citron, l'arôme citronnelle, ou l'arôme violette. Parmi les agents colorants que l'on peut ajouter, on citera à titre d'exemple le VDC Red 40 (LCW), ou le DC Yellow 6 (LCW). On peut également ne pas ajouter d'agent colorant. Among the flavors that can be added to the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of lemon flavor, citronella aroma, or violet aroma. Among the coloring agents that can be added include, for example, VDC Red 40 (LCW), or DC Yellow 6 (LCW). It is also not possible to add a coloring agent.
Parmi les agents conservateurs, on citera plus particulièrement les Germabens, les Parabens 30 de méthyle, d'éthyle, de butyle ou de propyle, le dermosoft et plus particulièrement le dermosoft 1388 eco, le dermosoft GMCY et le dermosoft 700B. Among the preserving agents, mention will be made more particularly of Germabens, Parabens 30 of methyl, ethyl, butyl or propyl, dermosoft and more particularly dermosoft 1388 eco, dermosoft GMCY and dermosoft 700B.
Parmi les compositions qui améliorent le toucher, on citera en premier lieu les silicones, les siliconols, ou les huiles de silicone, comme par exemple le produit DC 1403 (Dow Corning)25 fait d'un mélange de Dimethicone et de Dimethiconol, ou le produit DC 1501 (mélange de Cyclopenta siloxane et de dimethiconol). Among the compositions which improve the feel, silicones, siliconols, or silicone oils, for example the product DC 1403 (Dow Corning) made of a mixture of dimethicone and dimethiconol, or the product DC 1501 (mixture of cyclopenta siloxane and dimethiconol).
Comme agent émulsionnant, on pourra citer les stéarates de polyéthylène glycol, les stéarates de propyle, les Brij, les Span, les produits auto-émulsionnants, les Saponines et les composés similaires. As emulsifying agent, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol stearates, propyl stearates, Brijs, Spans, self-emulsifying products, saponins and similar compounds.
Comme agents épaississants, on citera en particulier les mucilages, les gommes végétales, les polymères acryliques, le polyacrylamide, le Rhamnosoft, le Fucosoft et les produits similaires. Thickening agents which may be mentioned in particular are mucilages, vegetable gums, acrylic polymers, polyacrylamide, Rhamnosoft, Fucosoft and similar products.
La concentration en fermentat de Botrytis s'échelonne de 0.1 à 10% en poids et de préference de 0.2 à 0.5% en poids. The fermentate concentration of Botrytis ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight.
PARTIE EXPERIMENTALE Exemples de fermentation avec la souche de Botrytis cinerea Souche BEC 1713 : origine ATCC n° 90769 BEC 1714: origine ATCC n° 96625 Composition milieux de culture EXPERIMENTAL PART Examples of fermentation with the strain of Botrytis cinerea strain BEC 1713: ATCC origin no. 90769 BEC 1714: ATCC origin no. 96625 Composition culture media
Exemple 1 Glucose : 10 à 20 g/l Extrait de pomme de terre : 4 g/1 Extrait auto-lytique de levure : 1 g/1 Example 1 Glucose: 10 to 20 g / l Potato extract: 4 g / 1 Auto-lytic yeast extract: 1 g / 1
PH : 4,0 à 5,0 PH: 4.0 to 5.0
Exemple de milieu de culture2 Jus de raisin qsp glucose 10 à 20 g/1 Extrait de pomme de terre 4 g/l Extrait auto-lytique de levure 1 g/1 Example of culture medium2 Grape juice qs glucose 10 to 20 g / 1 Potato extract 4 g / l Auto-lytic yeast extract 1 g / 1
PH (initial) : 4,0 à 5,0 PH (initial): 4.0 to 5.0
Exemple de milieu de culture 3 Extrait de raisin : qsp glucose 10 à 20 g/l Extrait de pomme de terre : 4 g/1 Extrait auto-lytique de levure : 1 g/1 Example of culture medium 3 Grape extract: qsp glucose 10 to 20 g / l Potato extract: 4 g / 1 autolytic yeast extract: 1 g / 1
PH (initial) : 4,0 à 5,0 Exemple de milieu de culture 4 Extrait de raisin + extrait de tomate : qsp glucose 10 à 20 g/1 Extrait de pomme de terre : 4 g/1 Extrait auto-lytique de levure : 1 g/1 PH (initial) : 4,0 à 5,0 Exemples de fermentation avec la souche de Botrytis cinerea- Quel que soit le mode opératoire retenu, les fermentations et les traitements s'effectuent sur le même schéma Préparation des pré-cultures 1 : culture sur gélose PDA (Potatoes Dextrose Agar) (Incubation quelques jours ; étuve 25°C) PH (initial): 4.0 to 5.0 Example of culture medium 4 Grape extract + tomato extract: qsp glucose 10 to 20 g / 1 Potato extract: 4 g / 1 Auto-lytic yeast extract : 1 g / 1 PH (initial): 4.0 to 5.0 Examples of fermentation with the strain of Botrytis cinerea- Whatever the procedure chosen, the fermentations and the treatments are carried out on the same diagram Preparation of the meadow -cultures 1: PDA (Potatoes Dextrose Agar) agar culture (Incubation for a few days, oven 25 ° C)
2 : culture liquide (Erlen) (Composition milieu : voir les exemples mentionnés précédemment) (Incubation shaker : 25°C ; 2 à 5 jours)35 Conditions de culture (fermenteur 20 litres) Taux d'ensemencement : environ 5% (pré-culture liquide) Aérobie : 0,5 à 1 vvm Agitation : 100 à 200 tpm PH régulé ou non : 25°C Température Durée : 5 à 10 jours Suivi culture : Consommation sucres Viscosité 2: liquid culture (Erlen) (Composition medium: see the examples mentioned above) (Incubation shaker: 25 ° C, 2 to 5 days) Culture conditions (fermentor 20 liters) Seeding rate: about 5% (pre- liquid culture) Aerobic: 0.5 to 1 vvm Agitation: 100 to 200 rpm PH regulated or not: 25 ° C Temperature Duration: 5 to 10 days Culture monitoring: Consumption of sugars Viscosity
Traitements des moûts de fermentation Après traitement thermique (stérilisation) le moût (éventuellement dilué) est clarifié par filtration ou centrifugation. On obtient ainsi une préparation limpide (colorée) qui peut présenter une viscosité notable. Treatments of fermentation musts After heat treatment (sterilization) the must (possibly diluted) is clarified by filtration or centrifugation. A clear (colored) preparation is thus obtained which may have a noticeable viscosity.
La validation de l'intérêt biologique au niveau cutané de ces fermentats ou biofermentats a été effectuée sur des expiants de peau humaine. (Etude réalisée par la société BIO EC, Long-jumeau). Il a par exemple été noté une nette surexpresion de collagène III avec une expression modérée de collagène I. On a aussi observé une surexpression modérée des Glyco amino glycanes GAGs neutres le long de la jonction dermo-épidermique. Par l'intermédiaire des cellules de Langerhans, un intérêt dans la protection et dans la sphère anti inflammatoire cutanée a aussi été pressenti. Tous ces résultats permettent d'établir qu'un fermentat ou un biofermentat parfaitement contrôlé de Botrytis cinerea constitue un produit parfaitement adapté à des applications cutanées, en particulier pour lutter contre les problèmes de vieillissement de la peau. The validation of the biological interest at the cutaneous level of these fermentations or biofermentats was carried out on explants of human skin. (Study carried out by the company BIO EC, Long-twin). For example, there was a marked overexpression of collagen III with moderate expression of collagen I. Moderate overexpression of Glyco amino glycans GAGs neutral along the dermal-epidermal junction was also observed. Through Langerhans cells, an interest in protection and in the anti-inflammatory skin sphere has also been anticipated. All these results make it possible to establish that a fermented or a perfectly controlled biofermentat of Botrytis cinerea constitutes a product perfectly adapted to cutaneous applications, in particular to fight against the problems of aging of the skin.
Préparation des expiants de peau humaine et mise en survie en milieu BEM (BIO-EC's Ex-plants Medium). Les explants ont été répartis en un lot de six expiants et un lot témoin TO avec 3 expiants pour vérification et suivi a été utilisé : Les explants recevront chacun et à chaque temps de traitement : 20 l du produit P12 (fermentat issu de l'exemple 1) par incorporation directe dans le milieu de culture Preparation of explants of human skin and survival in BEM medium (BIO-EC's Ex-Medium Plants). The explants were divided into a batch of six explants and a TO control lot with 3 explants for verification and follow-up was used: The explants will receive each and at each treatment time: 20 L of the product P12 (fermentation from the example) 1) by direct incorporation into the culture medium
Prélèvement pour l'histologie A J6 , 3 explants de chaque lot ont été prélevés. Les prélèvements sont coupés en deux, une moitié a été fixée dans du formol tamponné et l'autre moitié congelée à -80°C. Sampling for histology On day 6, 3 explants from each lot were collected. The samples are cut in half, one half is fixed in buffered formalin and the other half is frozen at -80 ° C.
Etude histologique Après fixation, les prélèvements ont été déshydratés, imprégnés et enrobés en paraffine. Des coupes de 5 m ont été réalisées pour l'observation morphologique générale. Histological study After fixation, the samples were dehydrated, impregnated and paraffin-embedded. Sections of 5 m were made for general morphological observation.
Première étape : Morphologie générale : L'observation de la morphologie générale des structures épidermiques et dermiques d'expiants de peau humaine est réalisée sur les coupes colorées au trichrome de Masson, va-riante de Goldner. Sur les explants traités par le produit de fermentation à 0.25%. Le stratum corneum est modérément épais, légèrement feuilleté, légèrement kératinisé en surface et plus nettement à sa base avec une légère parakératose. L'épiderme présente 5 à 6 assises cellulaires avec une assez bonne morphologie, malgré quelques cellules à oedème péri nucléaire. Le relief de la jonction dermo-épidermique est net. Le derme papillaire présente un collagène avec des fibres épaisses formant un réseau peu dense. Il est bien cellularisé. First step: General morphology: The observation of the general morphology of the epidermal and dermal structures of explants of human skin is carried out on the Masson trichrome stained sections, which are varied by Goldner. On the explants treated with the 0.25% fermentation product. The stratum corneum is moderately thick, slightly flaky, slightly keratinized at the surface and more clearly at its base with slight parakeratosis. The epidermis has 5 to 6 cell bases with a fairly good morphology, despite some peri-nuclear edema cells. The relief of the dermal-epidermal junction is clear. The papillary dermis presents collagen with thick fibers forming a sparse network. It is well cellularized.
Traitement histologique Des coupes en paraffine de 5 gm ont été réalisées selon le mode opératoire MO-H-173 à l'aide d'un microtome type Minot, Leica RM 2125 et montées sur des lames de verre histo- logiques Superfrost . Histological Treatment Paraffin sections of 5 .mu.m were made according to the procedure MO-H-173 using a Minot microtome, Leica RM 2125 and mounted on histological Superfrost glass slides.
Les prélèvements congelés ont été coupés à 7 gm dans un cryostat Leica CM 3050. Les coupes ont été collées sur des lames de verre histologique silanisées Superfrost Plus pour les immunomarquages. Frozen specimens were cut at 7 μm in a Leica CM 3050 cryostat. The sections were stuck on Superfrost Plus silanized histological glass slides for immunostaining.
Exemple de résultats de tests concernant le collagène I : Aucun marquage n'est observé après avoir remplacé l'anti-corps primaire et l'anti-corps secondaire par du PBS comme il apparaît sur la figure I ci-après annexée. Example of Test Results for Collagen I: No labeling is observed after replacing the primary antibody and the secondary antibody with PBS as shown in Figure I hereinafter appended.
Explants non traités à J6 : Le marquage est net, bien filamenteux et plus ou moins dense dans l'ensemble du derme papillaire. Explants traités avec le produit à J6 : Le marquage est très net, bien filamenteux et assez dense dans l'ensemble du derme papillaire. Explants not treated on day 6: The marking is clear, well filamentous and more or less dense throughout the papillary dermis. Explants treated with the product on day 6: The marking is very clear, well filamentous and rather dense throughout the papillary dermis.
Le produit induit une surexpression modérée de collagène I dans le derme papillaire. 20 Exemple de résultats de tests concernant le collagène III : Aucun marquage n'est observé après avoir remplacé l'anti-corps primaire et l'anti-corps secondaire par du PBS, comme il ressort de la figure II ci-annexée. Explants non traités à J6 : Le marquage est assez net, bien filamenteux et plus ou moins dense dans l'ensemble du 25 derme papillaire. Explants traités avec le roduit à J6 : Le marquage est fort, bien filamenteux et très dense surtout le long de la jonction dermoépidermique. The product induces a moderate overexpression of collagen I in the papillary dermis. Example of Collagen III Test Results: No labeling is observed after replacing the primary and secondary antibodies with PBS, as shown in appended FIG. Untreated explants at day 6: The marking is quite clear, well filamentous and more or less dense throughout the papillary dermis. Explants treated with the product at J6: The marking is strong, well filamentous and very dense especially along the dermoepidermic junction.
30 Le produit provoque une nette surexpression de collagène III surtout le long de la jonction dermo-épidermique Exemple de résultats de tests avec CDla Aucun marquage n'est observé après avoir remplacé l'anti-corps primaire et l'anti-corps se- condaire par du PBS comme il ressort de la figure III ci-annexée. The product causes a clear overexpression of collagen III especially along the dermal-epidermal junction Example of CDla test results No labeling is observed after replacing the primary antibody and the secondary antibody by PBS as shown in Figure III attached.
Explants non traités à J6 : Les cellules de Langerhans sont très nombreuses, très dendritiques et bien présentes dans tous les compartiments épidermiques. Elles sont légèrement présentes dans le derme. Explants traités avec le produit à J6 : Les cellules de Langerhans sont nombreuses, très dendritiques et bien présentes dans tous les compartiments épidermiques. Elles sont modérément présentes dans le derme. Untreated Explants on Day 6: Langerhans cells are very numerous, very dendritic and well present in all epidermal compartments. They are slightly present in the dermis. Explants treated with the product on day 6: The Langerhans cells are numerous, very dendritic and well present in all the epidermal compartments. They are moderately present in the dermis.
Ce biofermentat induit une très légère diminution des cellules de Langerhans dans l'épiderme sans modification de leur morphologie.This biofermentat induces a very slight decrease of Langerhans cells in the epidermis without modifying their morphology.
20 25 30 9 35 Exemples de formules pour des applications cutanées 5 Exemple 1 : crème restructurante anti-âge MATIERES PREMIERES % NOM INCI PHASE A 5.00 Behenyl alcohol / Glyceryl stearate / Céralution H (Sasol) 3.00 Glyceryl stearate citrate / sodium di- Nacol 22/98 (Sasol) cocoamide PEG-15 sulfate Behenyl alcohol Miglyol 812 (Sasol) 4.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride Isofol 20 (Sasol) 3.00 Octyldodecanol Dub MOD (Stéarineries Dubois) 4.00 Octyldodecyl myristate Lanol SG (Goldschmidt ù Dégussa) 3.00 Glyceryl stearate Q6 Céramide issu de l'huile de Car- 0.50 Palmitoyl PG-linoleamide thame (Solabia) Phytopin (DRT) 10.50 Phytosterols _ 0.15 Phosphatidylcholine Phospholipon 90G (Phospholipid GmbH) PHASE B qs 100 Aqua . . . . .. . . . . .. . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Eau déminéralisée Biofermentat de Botrytis cinerea 3.00 Physiogényl (UCIB) 3.00 Sodium PCA / Magnesium PCA / Zinc PCA / Manganese PCA Glycérine 3.00 Glycerin Keltrol CG-SFT (Kelco) 0.30 Xanthan gum PHASE C Glycofilm (Solabia) 5.00 Biosaccharide gum-4 PHASE D _ DC 1403 (Dow Corning) 11.50 Dimethicone / Dimethiconol Sépiplus 265 (Seppic) 11.50 Ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymer / Polyisobutene / Polysor- bate 20 PHASE E Parfum 40119-01 (Synarôme) 0.20 Fragrance _ FDC Red 40 (LCW) qs CI 16035 DC Yellow 6 (LCW)_ qs CI 15985 Conservateur qs 105 Exemple 2. crème biomimétique anti-âge MATIERES PREMIERES % NOM INCI PHASE A Céralution H (Sasol) 5.00 Behenyl alcohol / Glyceryl stearate / _ ___ Glyceryl stearate citrate / sodium di- cocoamide PEG-15 sulfate Nacol 22/98 (Sasol) 3.00 Behenyl alcohol Miglyol 812_(Sasol) 4.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride Isofol 20 (Sasol) 3.00 Octyldodecanol Dub MOD (Stéarineries Dubois) 4.00 Octyldodecyl myristate Lanol SG (Goldschmidt û Dégussa) 3.00 Glyceryl stearate ç 37619 Céramide issu de l'huile de pé- 0.50 Palmitoyl PG-linolenamide pins de framboises (Solabia) Phytopin (DRT) 0.50 Phytosterols Phospholipon 90G (Phospholipid 0.15 Phosphatidylcholine GmbH) PHASE B Eau déminéralisée qs 100 Aqua Biofermentat de Botrytis cinerea 5.00 Physiogényl (UCIB) 3.00 Sodium PCA / Magnesium PCA / Zinc PCA / Manganese PCA Glycérine 3.00 Glycerin Keltrol CG-SFT (Kelco) 10.30 Xanthan gum PHASE C Glycofilm (Solabia) 5.00 Biosaccharide gum-4 PHASE D Dimethicone / Dimethiconol DC 1403 (Dow Corning) 11.50 Sépiplus 265 (Seppic) 11.50 Ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymer / Polyisobutene / Polysor- bate 20 PHASE E Parfum 40119-01 (Synarôme) 10.20 Fragrance FDC Red 40 (LCW) qs CI 16035 DC Yellow 6 (LCW) qs CI 15985 Conservateur qs 11 10 Exemple 3 : crème apaisante MATIERES PREMIERES % NOM INCI PHASE A 4.00 Methyl glucose sesquistearate Tégo care PS (Goldschmidt û De- 12.00 Behenyl alcohol gussa) Nacol 22/98 (Sasol) Miglyol 8810 (Sasol) 4.00 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate DC 200 V 100 (Dow Corning) 2.00 Dimethicone Isofol 20 (Sasol) 14.00 Octyldodecanol___ 523 Céramide issu de l'huile de pépins 0.60 Palmitoyl PG-linolenamide de kiwi (Solabia) Phospholipon 90G (Phospholipid 0.20 Phosphatidylcholine GmbH) PHASE B Eau déminéralisée ` qs 100 Aqua Biofermentat de Botrytis cinerea 1.00 Glycérine 2.00 Glycerin Keltrol CG-SFT (Kelco) 0.30 Xanthan gum PHASE C _ Rhamnosoft (Solabia) 5.00 _Biosaccharidegum-2 DC 1501 (Dow Corning) 1.50 Cyclopentasiloxane / dimethiconol Sépigel 305 (Seppic) 11.00 Polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth-7 Parfum 40120-01 (Synarôme) 0.20 Fragrance Acide lactique [ qs Conservateur qs 12 10 15 20 Exemple 4 : crème anti-âge pour peaux sensibles MATIERES PREMIERES (% NOM INCI PHASE A Montanov 202 (Seppic) 5.00 Arachidyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol / [ arachidyl glucoside _ 10.30 _ Nikkolipid 81 S (Nikko) Batyl alcohol / stearic acid / caprylic/capric triglyceride / lecitin Miglyol 812 (Sasol) 4.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride Isoto120 (Sasol) 3.00 Octyldodecanol Tegosoft CO (Goldschmidt) 2.00 Cety_l ethylhexanoate Dub PTO (Stéarineries Dubois) 2.00 1 Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate Q6 Céramide issu de l'huile de Coton 0.30 Palmitoyl PG-linoleamide (Solabia) analogue de céramide riche en acide 1.00 _ punicique obtenu à partir d'huile de pépins de grenade Phytopin (DRT) _ Phytosterols 0.30 PHASE B qsp Aqua Eau déminéralisée Conservateur qs __ 2.00 Glycerin fermentat de Botrytis cinerea 12.00 Glycérine _ 0.20 Xanthan gum Keltrol CG SFT (Kelco) PHASE C 5.00 ........................................... ...HASE Biosaccharide gum-1 Fucogel (Solabia) PHASE D Glycolysat de papaye (CEP) 14.00 Propylene glycol / Aqua / Carica pa- paya Simulgel NS (Seppic) 0.75 _ Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acry- loyldimethyl taurate copolymer / squalane / Polysorbate 60 DC 1501 (Dow Corning) 1.00 Cyclopentasiloxane / dimethiconol PHASE 0.20 _ HAS. Parfum E E Parfum Flashy (Synarôme) DCYellow 6 (LCW) ; qs CI 15985 FDC Red 40 (LCW) _ qs CI 160355 Exemple 5 : Composition pour le maintien de l'élasticité cutanée MATIERES PREMIERES % (m/m) DENOMINATION INCI PHASE A Tégo care PS (Goldschmidt û De- 4.00 Methyl glucose sesquistearate gussa) Nacol 22/98 (Sasol) i 2M0 _ Behenyl alcohol Miglyol 8810 (Sasol) 14.00 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate DC 200 V 100 (Dow Corning) 2.00 Dimethicone Isofol 20 (Sasol) 3.00 Octyldodecanol Oméga9 ceramide (Solabia) 1.00 Palmitoyl PG-linoleamide PHASE B Eau déminéralisée qs 100 Aqua Glycérine 2.00 Glycerin KeltrolCG-SFT (Kelco) _ 0.30 Xanthan gum __ _ PHASE C ____ 5.00 Biosaccharide gum-2 Rhamnosoft (Solabia) fermentat de Botrytis cinerea 3.50 DC 1501 (Dow Corning) 1.50 Cyclopentasiloxane / dimethiconol Sépigel 305 (Seppic) 1.00 Polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth-7 Parfum 0.20 ' Fragrance ,...__ ___ Acide lactique qs Conservateur qs C ... 10 15 EXAMPLES OF FORMULAS FOR SKIN APPLICATIONS EXAMPLE 1: Anti-Aging Restructuring Cream RAW MATERIALS% INCI NAME PHASE A 5.00 Behenyl alcohol / Glyceryl stearate / Cution H (Sasol) 3.00 Glyceryl stearate citrate / sodium di-Nacol 22 / 98 (Sasol) cocoamide PEG-15 sulphate Behenyl alcohol Miglyol 812 (Sasol) 4.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride Isofol 20 (Sasol) 3.00 Octyldodecanol Dub MOD (Dubois stearineries) 4.00 Octyldodecyl myristate Lanol SG (Goldschmidt ù Dégussa) 3.00 Glyceryl stearate Q6 Ceramide 0.50 Palmitoyl PG-linoleamide thame (Solabia) Phytopin (DRT) 10.50 Phytosterols _ 0.15 Phosphatidylcholine Phospholipon 90G (Phospholipid GmbH) PHASE B qs 100 Aqua. . . . .. . . . .. . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Demineralized water Biofermentat of Botrytis cinerea 3.00 Physiogenyl (UCIB) 3.00 Sodium PCA / Magnesium PCA / Zinc PCA / Manganese PCA Glycerin 3.00 Glycerin Keltrol CG-SFT (Kelco) 0.30 Xanthan gum PHASE C Glycofilm (Solabia) 5.00 Biosaccharide gum-4 PHASE D _ DC 1403 (Dow Corning) 11.50 Dimethicone / Dimethiconol Sepiplus 265 (Seppic) 11.50 Ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymer / Polyisobutene / Polysorbate 20 PHASE E Fragrance 40119-01 (Synarome) 0.20 Fragrance _ FDC Red 40 (LCW) qs CI 16035 DC Yellow 6 (LCW) _ qs CI 15985 Preservative qs 105 Example 2. Biomimetic anti-aging cream RAW MATERIALS% INCI NAME PHASE A Alkalization H (Sasol) 5.00 Behenyl alcohol / Glyceryl stearate / _ ___ Glyceryl stearate citrate / sodium di-cocoamide PEG -15 sulfate Nacol 22/98 (Sasol) 3.00 Behenyl alcohol Miglyol 812_ (Sasol) 4.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Isofol 20 (Sasol) 3.00 Octyldodecanol Dub MOD (Dubois Stearineries) 4.00 Octyldodecyl Myristate Lanol SG (Goldschmidt - Dégu ssa) 3.00 Glyceryl stearate ç 37619 Ceramide made from palm oil 0.50 Palmitoyl PG-linolenamide Raspberry pines (Solabia) Phytopin (DRT) 0.50 Phytosterols Phospholipon 90G (Phospholipid 0.15 Phosphatidylcholine GmbH) PHASE B Demineralised water qs 100 Aqua Biofermentat Botrytis cinerea 5.00 Physiogenyl (UCIB) 3.00 Sodium PCA / Magnesium PCA / Zinc PCA / Manganese PCA Glycerin 3.00 Glycerin Keltrol CG-SFT (Kelco) 10.30 Xanthan gum PHASE C Glycofilm (Solabia) 5.00 Biosaccharide gum-4 PHASE D Dimethicone / Dimethiconol DC 1403 (Dow Corning) 11.50 Sepiplus 265 (Seppic) 11.50 Ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymer / Polyisobutene / Polysorbate 20 PHASE E Fragance 40119-01 (Synarome) 10.20 Fragrance FDC Red 40 (LCW) qs CI 16035 DC Yellow 6 (LCW) qs CI 15985 Preservative qs 11 10 Example 3: soothing cream RAW MATERIALS% INCI NAME PHASE A 4.00 Methyl glucose sesquistearate Tego care PS (Goldschmidt-De-12.00 Behenyl alcohol gussa) Nacol 22/98 (Sasol) Miglyol 8 810 (Sasol) 4.00 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate DC 200 V 100 (Dow Corning) 2.00 Dimethicone Isofol 20 (Sasol) 14.00 Octyldodecanol___ 523 Ceramide from seed oil 0.60 Palmitoyl PG-linolenamide from kiwifruit (Solabia) Phospholipon 90G (Phospholipid) 0.20 Phosphatidylcholine GmbH) PHASE B Demineralized water qs 100 Aqua Biofermentate of Botrytis cinerea 1.00 Glycerin 2.00 Glycerin Keltrol CG-SFT (Kelco) 0.30 Xanthan gum PHASE C _ Rhamnosoft (Solabia) 5.00 _Biosaccharidegum-2 DC 1501 (Dow Corning) 1.50 Cyclopentasiloxane / dimethiconol Sepigel 305 (Seppic) 11.00 Polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth-7 Fragrance 40120-01 (Synonymous) 0.20 Fragrance Lactic acid [qs Preservative qs 12 10 15 20 Example 4: anti-aging cream for sensitive skin RAW MATERIALS (% INCI NAME PHASE A Montanov 202 (Seppic) 5.00 Arachidyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol / [arachidyl glucoside _ 10.30 _ Nikkolipid 81 S (Nikko) Batyl alcohol / stearic acid / caprylic / capric triglyceride / lec itin Miglyol 812 (Sasol) 4.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Isoto120 (Sasol) 3.00 Octyldodecanol Tegosoft CO (Goldschmidt) 2.00 Cety_l ethylhexanoate Dub PTO (Dubois Stearineries) 2.00 1 Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate Q6 Ceramide from Cotton Oil 0.30 Palmitoyl PG-linoleamide ( Solabia) 1.00 Punic acid-rich ceramide analogue derived from pomegranate seed oil Phytopin (DRT) _ Phytosterols 0.30 PHASE B qs Aqua Demineralized water Preservative qs __ 2.00 Glycerin fermentate from Botrytis cinerea 12.00 Glycerin _ 0.20 Xanthan gum Keltrol CG SFT (Kelco) PHASE C 5.00 .......................................... ... HASE Biosaccharide gum-1 Fucogel (Solabia) PHASE D Papaya Glycolysate (CEP) 14.00 Propylene glycol / Aqua / Carica papaya Simulgel NS (Seppic) 0.75 _ Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl-dimethyl taurate copolymer / squalane / Polysorbate 60 DC 1501 (Dow Corning) 1.00 Cyclopentasiloxane / dimethiconol PHASE 0.20 _ HAS. E E Scent Flashy Perfume (Synarome) DCYellow 6 (LCW); qs CI 15985 FDC Red 40 (LCW) _ qs CI 160355 EXAMPLE 5 Composition for the maintenance of cutaneous elasticity RAW MATERIALS% (m / m) INCI DENOMINATION PHASE A Tego care PS (Goldschmidt) - 4.00 Methyl glucose sesquistearate gussa ) Nacol 22/98 (Sasol) i 2M0 _ Behenyl alcohol Miglyol 8810 (Sasol) 14.00 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate DC 200 V 100 (Dow Corning) 2.00 Dimethicone Isofol 20 (Sasol) 3.00 Octyldodecanol Omega9 ceramide (Solabia) 1.00 Palmitoyl PG- linoleamide PHASE B Demineralized water qs 100 Aqua Glycerin 2.00 Glycerin KeltrolCG-SFT (Kelco) _ 0.30 Xanthan gum __ _ PHASE C ____ 5.00 Biosaccharide gum-2 Rhamnosoft (Solabia) fermentate of Botrytis cinerea 3.50 DC 1501 (Dow Corning) 1.50 Cyclopentasiloxane / dimethiconol Sepigel 305 (Seppic) 1.00 Polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth-7 Perfume 0.20 'Fragrance, ...__ ___ Lactic acid qs Preservative qs C ... 10 15
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Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2975592A1 (en) * | 2011-05-24 | 2012-11-30 | Biochimie Appliquee | NOVEL PROCESS FOR OBTAINING DELTA-VINIFERIN, AND COSMETIC AND / OR PHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING SAME |
FR2989270A1 (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2013-10-18 | Biochimie Appliquee Soc | Topical cosmetic composition, used to fight against physical manifestations of skin aging e.g. fine lines, comprises polyphenolic compound (delta viniferine) adapted to activate mitochondrial aconitase and mixed with excipients |
CN110944649A (en) * | 2017-07-28 | 2020-03-31 | 艾思丁公司 | Use of rhamnose and its derivatives as antifungal agents |
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US2789940A (en) * | 1955-06-16 | 1957-04-23 | American Cyanamid Co | 11 beta hydroxylation of steroids by botrytis cinerea |
WO1992013086A1 (en) * | 1991-01-24 | 1992-08-06 | Martek Corporation | Arachidonic acid and methods for the production and use thereof |
FR2781669A1 (en) * | 1998-07-31 | 2000-02-04 | Lanatech | Cosmetic composition such as sun creams, shampoos and skin care products contain at least one polysaccharide derived from bacteria of hydrothermal origin |
EP1083233A1 (en) * | 1999-09-08 | 2001-03-14 | Givaudan SA | Production of natural flavors by laccase catalysis |
EP1157684A2 (en) * | 2000-05-15 | 2001-11-28 | L'oreal | Oxidising composition and uses for dyeing, permanently setting or bleaching keratin fibers |
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2009
- 2009-06-16 FR FR0902920A patent/FR2946532B1/en active Active
Patent Citations (5)
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US2789940A (en) * | 1955-06-16 | 1957-04-23 | American Cyanamid Co | 11 beta hydroxylation of steroids by botrytis cinerea |
WO1992013086A1 (en) * | 1991-01-24 | 1992-08-06 | Martek Corporation | Arachidonic acid and methods for the production and use thereof |
FR2781669A1 (en) * | 1998-07-31 | 2000-02-04 | Lanatech | Cosmetic composition such as sun creams, shampoos and skin care products contain at least one polysaccharide derived from bacteria of hydrothermal origin |
EP1083233A1 (en) * | 1999-09-08 | 2001-03-14 | Givaudan SA | Production of natural flavors by laccase catalysis |
EP1157684A2 (en) * | 2000-05-15 | 2001-11-28 | L'oreal | Oxidising composition and uses for dyeing, permanently setting or bleaching keratin fibers |
Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2975592A1 (en) * | 2011-05-24 | 2012-11-30 | Biochimie Appliquee | NOVEL PROCESS FOR OBTAINING DELTA-VINIFERIN, AND COSMETIC AND / OR PHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING SAME |
FR2989270A1 (en) * | 2012-04-12 | 2013-10-18 | Biochimie Appliquee Soc | Topical cosmetic composition, used to fight against physical manifestations of skin aging e.g. fine lines, comprises polyphenolic compound (delta viniferine) adapted to activate mitochondrial aconitase and mixed with excipients |
CN110944649A (en) * | 2017-07-28 | 2020-03-31 | 艾思丁公司 | Use of rhamnose and its derivatives as antifungal agents |
CN110944649B (en) * | 2017-07-28 | 2024-01-26 | 怡思丁公司 | Use of rhamnose and its derivatives as antifungal agents |
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