FR2487868A1 - Sew-knit fabric structure - has alternate sew-knit yarns one of which is visibly noticeable and the second is confused with the yarns it supports - Google Patents
Sew-knit fabric structure - has alternate sew-knit yarns one of which is visibly noticeable and the second is confused with the yarns it supports Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2487868A1 FR2487868A1 FR8017219A FR8017219A FR2487868A1 FR 2487868 A1 FR2487868 A1 FR 2487868A1 FR 8017219 A FR8017219 A FR 8017219A FR 8017219 A FR8017219 A FR 8017219A FR 2487868 A1 FR2487868 A1 FR 2487868A1
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- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- sewing
- sew
- elements
- yarns
- yarn
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
- D04H3/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of yarns or like filamentary material of substantial length
- D04H3/08—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of yarns or like filamentary material of substantial length characterised by the method of strengthening or consolidating
- D04H3/10—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of yarns or like filamentary material of substantial length characterised by the method of strengthening or consolidating with bonds between yarns or filaments made mechanically
- D04H3/115—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of yarns or like filamentary material of substantial length characterised by the method of strengthening or consolidating with bonds between yarns or filaments made mechanically by applying or inserting filamentary binding elements
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
- D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
- D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
- D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
- D04H1/52—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by applying or inserting filamentary binding elements
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Braiding, Manufacturing Of Bobbin-Net Or Lace, And Manufacturing Of Nets By Knotting (AREA)
Abstract
Description
La présente invention concerne une nouvelle structure textile plane du type couture-tricotage ainsi que son procédé de fabrication. The present invention relates to a new flat textile structure of the sewing-knitting type as well as its manufacturing process.
Les deux principaux procédés employes depuis fort longtemps pour la réalisation de structures textiles planes sont le tissage dans lequel deux nappes de fils orthogonales se croisent selon une certaine périodicité, et le tricotage dans lequel les fils s'entrelacent entre eux pour former des mailles.D'autres techniques sont venues il y a quelques années compléter ces procédés ; c'est ainsi que, selon une technique dénommée couture-tricotage, deux nappes de fils sont superposées orthogonalement puis liées entre elles par des fils supplémentaires de couture selon un point zig-zag ayant l'apparence de mailles jersey ; cette technique de couture-tricotage a rencontré un grand succès car elle permet d'obtenir très rapidement, et avec un faible coût de production, des structures textiles planes multiples et variées ; on peut varier encore l'aspect de ces structures textiles en introduisant en même temps que les nappes de fils orthogonales, ou à la place d'au moins l'une de celles-ci, des surfaces planes en toute matière souple ou semi-rigide telle que feutre,nontisse, papier, tissu, etc...Les caractéristiques originales des structures textiles ainsi obtenues leur ont ouvert de nombreux domaines d'application, spécialement dans la décoration murale. The two main processes used for a very long time for the production of flat textile structures are weaving in which two layers of orthogonal threads cross each other at a certain periodicity, and knitting in which the threads intertwine to form stitches. other techniques came a few years ago to complete these processes; thus, according to a technique called sewing-knitting, two plies of threads are superposed orthogonally and then linked together by additional sewing threads according to a zig-zag stitch having the appearance of jersey stitches; this sewing-knitting technique has met with great success because it makes it possible to obtain very quickly, and with a low production cost, multiple and varied flat textile structures; the appearance of these textile structures can be further varied by introducing at the same time as the plies of orthogonal threads, or in place of at least one of these, flat surfaces of any flexible or semi-rigid material such as felt, nonwoven, paper, fabric, etc. The original characteristics of the textile structures thus obtained have opened up many fields of application to them, especially in wall decoration.
On reproche cependant aux structures textiles planes obtenues par couture-tricotage leur aspect caractéristique qui les différcncie des structures textiles classiques et spécialement des tissus ; en effet, l'aspect de ces structures est caractérisé par la superposition des éléments orthogonaux et l'on n'y peut retrouver l'aspect toile traditionnel, obtenu par tissage, et qui montre, en raison du croisement des nappes de fils de chaîne et de trame, l'apparition et la disparition successive du fil de channe sur le fil de trame et vice-versa. However, flat textile structures obtained by sewing-knitting are criticized for their characteristic appearance which differentiates them from conventional textile structures and especially fabrics; indeed, the appearance of these structures is characterized by the superposition of the orthogonal elements and one cannot find there the traditional canvas aspect, obtained by weaving, and which shows, due to the crossing of the plies of warp threads and weft, the appearance and the successive disappearance of the warp yarn on the weft yarn and vice-versa.
La présente invention s'est donnée pour but de réaliser, par la technique de couture-tricotage, des structures textiles planes présentant l'aspect des structures textiles obtenues par les techniques classiques de tissage, c'est- a-dire dans lesquelles on remarque un effet d'apparition et de disparition alternatif et successif des éléments apparents de la structure. The object of the present invention is to produce, by the sewing-knitting technique, flat textile structures having the appearance of the textile structures obtained by conventional weaving techniques, that is to say in which an effect of alternative and successive appearance and disappearance of the apparent elements of the structure.
Au cours de ses recherches, la demanderesse a observé que, dans ces structures, seulsles fils assurant le liage par couture présentent un jeu alternatif de surface d'endroit et d'envers et elle s'est efforce d'amplifier cet effet en recherchant le. moyen de rendre ces fils apparents par alternance, en jouant spécialement sur les variations de leurs propriétés optiques. During its research, the plaintiff observed that, in these structures, only the threads ensuring the binding by sewing have an alternating play of surface of place and back and it endeavors to amplify this effect by seeking the . means of making these wires visible alternately, playing specially on the variations in their optical properties.
L'invention a donc pour objet une structure textile plane du type obtenu selon la technique de couture-tricotage et dont l'originalité consiste en ce que son liage par couture est assuré alternativement par un fil classique et repérable visuellement, et par un fil dont les propriétés optiques sont telles qu'il se confonde avec les éléments dont il assure le maintien. The invention therefore relates to a flat textile structure of the type obtained according to the sewing-knitting technique and whose originality consists in that its binding by sewing is provided alternately by a conventional thread and visually identifiable, and by a thread of which the optical properties are such that it merges with the elements which it maintains.
Les colonnes de maille assurant la fixation des élé- ments de la structure textile ainsi obtenue sont constituées alternativement par une maille de fil apparent et par une maille de fil invisible puisque se confondant avec le reste de la a structure. Cet effet se répétant à chaque colonne, avec un décalage d'une maille chaque fois, permet de retrouver l'aspect d'apparition et de disparition successives d'un fil sur un support, aspect carac téristique de l'article tissé et spécialement de l'armure toile.On conçoit facilement tout l'intérêt de ces nouvelles structures qui allient à l'aspect des structures textiles obtenues par tissage, les avantages économiques, techniques et estétiques, des structures obtenues par couture-tricotage
Le fil de couture se confondant avec les éléments dont il assure le maintien est avantageusement choisi parmi les crins mono brins translucides en matière synthetique, telles que les polyamides ou le polyester.The columns of mesh ensuring the fixing of the elements of the textile structure thus obtained are formed alternately by an apparent thread mesh and by an invisible thread mesh since it merges with the rest of the structure. This effect repeating with each column, with a shift of one mesh each time, allows to find the appearance of successive appearance and disappearance of a thread on a support, characteristic aspect of the woven article and especially of canvas weave. We can easily understand the value of these new structures which combine the appearance of textile structures obtained by weaving, economic, technical and aesthetic advantages, structures obtained by sewing-knitting
The sewing thread merging with the elements which it maintains is advantageously chosen from single-strand translucent hairs made of synthetic material, such as polyamides or polyester.
Selon une autre caractéristique de l'invention, le fil de couture se confondant avec les éléments dont il assure le maintien est choisi parmi les fils classiques dont la coloration est similaire à celle d'au moins l'un des éléments dont il assure le maintien. According to another characteristic of the invention, the sewing thread merging with the elements which it maintains is chosen from conventional yarns whose coloring is similar to that of at least one of the elements which it maintains .
La présente invention a egalement pour objet le procédé de liage mis en oeuvre pour l'obtention des-structures textiles planes selon l'invention ; ce procédé consiste te à alimenter alternativement les aiguilles servant à réaliser 1'opération de liage par couture-tricotage avec un fil classique et reperable visuellement sur l'article fini et avec un fil dont les propriétés optiques sont telles qu'il se confonde optiquement avec les éléments dont il assure le maintien. The present invention also relates to the binding process used to obtain flat textile structures according to the invention; this method consists in alternately supplying the needles used to carry out the tying-stitching-knitting operation with a conventional thread and visually identifiable on the finished article and with a thread whose optical properties are such that it optically merges with the elements which it maintains.
La présente invention sera mieux comprise d'ailleurs et ses avantages ressortiront bien de la description qui suit, en référence au dessin schématique annexé dans lequel
Figure 1 est une structure textile plane du type couture-tricotage classique
Figure 2 est une structure textile plane selon l'in invention
Figure 3 schématisme l'aspect extérieur de la structure de figure 2
Figures 4 et 5 représentent le mode de travail des aiguilles assurant le liage par couture-tricotage.The present invention will be better understood moreover and its advantages will emerge clearly from the description which follows, with reference to the appended schematic drawing in which
Figure 1 is a flat textile structure of the conventional sewing-knitting type
Figure 2 is a flat textile structure according to the invention
Figure 3 schematic external appearance of the structure of Figure 2
Figures 4 and 5 show the working mode of the needles ensuring the binding by sewing-knitting.
Sur les figures 2 représente la nappe de fils de chaîne, 3 la nappe de fils de trame et 4 la nappe de fils assurant le liage par couture-tricotage. In FIGS. 2 represents the ply of warp threads, 3 the ply of weft threads and 4 the ply of threads ensuring the binding by sewing-knitting.
Dans la structure classique représentée à la figure 1, la nappe de fils de chaine 2 est placée orthogonalement par rapport à la nappe de fils de trame 3, ces deux nappes se superposant sans se croiser ; le maintien en place et le liage de ces nappes 2 et 3 est assuré par les fils 4 de couture selon un point zig-zag donnant un effet maille. In the conventional structure shown in FIG. 1, the ply of warp threads 2 is placed orthogonally with respect to the ply of weft threads 3, these two plies overlapping without crossing each other; the holding in place and the binding of these plies 2 and 3 is ensured by the threads 4 of sewing according to a zigzag point giving a mesh effect.
Dans le cas représenté à la figure 1, c'est la constante superposition des nappes chaîne 2 et trame 3 qui predo- mine tJ-lsuellement donnant à l'article terminé l'aspect classique des structures obtenues par la technique de couture-tricotage. In the case represented in FIG. 1, it is the constant superposition of the warp 2 and weft 3 plies which predominates tJ-lsulement giving the finished article the classic appearance of the structures obtained by the sewing-knitting technique.
La structure selon l'invention, telle que représentée à la figure 2 se distingue de la précédente en ce que les fils 4, liant entre elles les nappes de fils 2 et 3 sont rendus apparents par alternance. The structure according to the invention, as shown in FIG. 2, differs from the previous one in that the wires 4, linking together the layers of wires 2 and 3 are made apparent by alternation.
Dans ce but, la nappe de fils de couture comporte, en alternance 1:i un fil de type classique 4A repérable visuellement sur l'article terminé et un fil 4B dont les propriétés optiques sont telles qu'il se confond avec les éléments dont il assure le maintien. For this purpose, the ply of sewing threads comprises, alternately 1: i a conventional type thread 4A visually locatable on the finished article and a thread 4B whose optical properties are such that it merges with the elements of which it provides maintenance.
C'est ainsi que sur une machine couture-tricotage de jauge 9 par exemple, on introduit en alternance pour composer la nappe de fils de couture, un fil de fibranne 2/28 blanc, constituant le fil 4A et un crin polyamide. translu- cide 90 dtex ; une chaîne 2 et une trame 3 en fil cardé
Nm 4 sont mises en place sur le métier selon la technique classique. L'aspect obtenu est bien illustré dans la figure 2 sur laquelle il ressort que la première colonne de mailles est constituée alternativement par une maille du fil 4A puis par une maille du fil 4B, la première boucle étant de ce fait, apparente et visible sur l'endroit, la deuxième invisible et ainsi de suite.Thus on a sewing-knitting machine of gauge 9 for example, an alternating introduction is made to compose the web of sewing threads, a white fibber thread 2/28, constituting the thread 4A and a polyamide hair. translucent 90 dtex; a warp 2 and a weft 3 in carded yarn
Nm 4 are installed on the loom according to the classic technique. The aspect obtained is well illustrated in FIG. 2 in which it appears that the first column of meshes is constituted alternately by a mesh of wire 4A then by a mesh of wire 4B, the first loop therefore being visible and visible on the place, the second invisible and so on.
Dans la deuxième colonne de mailles, le jeu est le même mais décalé d'une unité de mailles ce qui permet de retrouver à l'oeil l'apparition et la disparition successive d'un fil sur un support caractéristique en particulier de l'armure tissée toile que l'on s'est donné pour but d'imiter. Cet aspect est schématisé à la figure 3 dans laquelle, pour une raison de simplification, seuls ont été représentés les fils 4A et 4B assurant la fixation par couture. In the second column of stitches, the game is the same but offset by a unit of stitches which makes it possible to find with the eye the appearance and the successive disappearance of a wire on a characteristic support in particular of the weave woven canvas that we set out to imitate. This aspect is shown diagrammatically in FIG. 3 in which, for the sake of simplification, only the wires 4A and 4B have been shown ensuring attachment by sewing.
On retrouve, sur les figures 4 et 5 le mode de travail des aiguilles qui travaillent pour assurer le liage de la structure, ces aiguilles étant alternativement alimentées avec un fil 4A et avec un fil 4B. We find, in Figures 4 and 5 the working mode of the needles which work to ensure the binding of the structure, these needles being alternately supplied with a wire 4A and with a wire 4B.
On conçoit facilement la variété des effets qu'il est possible d'obtenir en jouant avec les caractéristiques respectives des fils 4A et 4B, ainsi que sur celle des fils 2 et 3 constituant les éléments chaîne et trame et sur la matière souple ou semi-rigide (non représentée au dessin) éventuellement intercalée entre ces éléments, ou remplaçant certains d'entre eux. It is easy to see the variety of effects that it is possible to obtain by playing with the respective characteristics of the wires 4A and 4B, as well as on that of the wires 2 and 3 constituting the warp and weft elements and on the flexible or semi-material rigid (not shown in the drawing) possibly inserted between these elements, or replacing some of them.
C'est ainsi que les fils 4A pourront être de toute nature (naturels, artificiels ou synthétiques) et de toute forme (lisses, douppionnés, fantaisies), ils pourront être teintes a l'unisson ou chines et permettront ainsi d'obtenir des effets très nouveaux. This is how 4A wires can be of any kind (natural, artificial or synthetic) and of any shape (smooth, coarse, fancy), they can be dyed in unison or china and will thus allow to obtain effects very new.
En jouant sur la nature de la trame 3 on peut obtenir des effets de "tissu croisé". By playing on the nature of the weft 3 we can obtain "crossed fabric" effects.
L'introduction en même temps ou en remplacement de la trame 3 d'une matière souple ou semi-rigide telle qu'un papier, un non-tissé, un feutre, un tissu, etc... qui peut elle-même être teintée ou imprimée permet d'obtenir un aspect broderie sur l'article terminé puisque, comme décrit plus haut, le fil de couture apparaîtrait ou disparaîtrait alternativement : dans ce cas, le fil 4B peut être teint à la couleur de la matière intercalée avec laquelle il se confondra au moment de la couture, le fil 4A étant teint en une couleur nettement différente pour obtenir l'effet broderie recherchés
Comme il va de soi et comme il ressort de ce qui précède, la présente invention ne se limite pas au seul mode de réalisation décrit ci-dessus à titre d'exemple ; elle en embrasse, au contraire, toutes les variantes de réa- lisation, quels que soient notamment le nombre et la nature des éléments-autres que les fils de couture -constitutifs de la structure textile plane obtenue par couture-tricotagc et quels que soient également les traitements ultérieurs appliqués à cette structure : impression classique, impression par transfert, contre-collage, enduction, etc... The introduction at the same time or as a replacement of the weft 3 of a flexible or semi-rigid material such as paper, nonwoven, felt, fabric, etc. which can itself be dyed or printed makes it possible to obtain an embroidery aspect on the finished article since, as described above, the sewing thread would appear or disappear alternately: in this case, the 4B thread can be dyed with the color of the interleaved material with which it will merge at the time of sewing, the 4A thread being dyed in a clearly different color to obtain the desired embroidery effect
As is obvious and as is clear from the above, the present invention is not limited to the single embodiment described above by way of example; on the contrary, it embraces all the variant embodiments thereof, whatever in particular the number and nature of the elements - other than the sewing threads - constitutive of the planar textile structure obtained by sewing-knitting and whatever the subsequent treatments applied to this structure: conventional printing, transfer printing, laminating, coating, etc.
Claims (3)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8017219A FR2487868A1 (en) | 1980-07-30 | 1980-07-30 | Sew-knit fabric structure - has alternate sew-knit yarns one of which is visibly noticeable and the second is confused with the yarns it supports |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8017219A FR2487868A1 (en) | 1980-07-30 | 1980-07-30 | Sew-knit fabric structure - has alternate sew-knit yarns one of which is visibly noticeable and the second is confused with the yarns it supports |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| FR2487868A1 true FR2487868A1 (en) | 1982-02-05 |
| FR2487868B1 FR2487868B1 (en) | 1984-01-06 |
Family
ID=9244874
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8017219A Granted FR2487868A1 (en) | 1980-07-30 | 1980-07-30 | Sew-knit fabric structure - has alternate sew-knit yarns one of which is visibly noticeable and the second is confused with the yarns it supports |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR2487868A1 (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO1983000707A1 (en) * | 1982-01-27 | 1983-03-03 | GUILLAUD, André, Claude | New plane textile structure of the seaming-knitting type and manufacturing process thereof |
Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR1007507A (en) * | 1949-01-03 | 1952-05-07 | Method and machine for the manufacture of articles comprising braiding on a base material | |
| FR1474018A (en) * | 1966-01-20 | 1967-03-24 | Intissel Sa | quilted non-woven fabric |
-
1980
- 1980-07-30 FR FR8017219A patent/FR2487868A1/en active Granted
Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR1007507A (en) * | 1949-01-03 | 1952-05-07 | Method and machine for the manufacture of articles comprising braiding on a base material | |
| FR1474018A (en) * | 1966-01-20 | 1967-03-24 | Intissel Sa | quilted non-woven fabric |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO1983000707A1 (en) * | 1982-01-27 | 1983-03-03 | GUILLAUD, André, Claude | New plane textile structure of the seaming-knitting type and manufacturing process thereof |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR2487868B1 (en) | 1984-01-06 |
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