EP4284320A1 - Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile, utilisation de composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile et procédé de fabrication de composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile - Google Patents

Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile, utilisation de composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile et procédé de fabrication de composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile

Info

Publication number
EP4284320A1
EP4284320A1 EP21704168.0A EP21704168A EP4284320A1 EP 4284320 A1 EP4284320 A1 EP 4284320A1 EP 21704168 A EP21704168 A EP 21704168A EP 4284320 A1 EP4284320 A1 EP 4284320A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition
water
weight
dimethicone
total weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21704168.0A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Rafael SAUCE SILVA
Marie Boisdron
Tassia HANASHIRO
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP4284320A1 publication Critical patent/EP4284320A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

  • WATER-IN-OIL COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION USE OF A WATER-IN- OIL COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, AND PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A WATER-IN-OIL COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION
  • the present invention is directed to new water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions, particularly for caring, for making up and for photoprotection of the skin comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone is specified.
  • the present invention is also directed to the use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, and to a process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition.
  • UVA/UVB cosmetic sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
  • the degree of UV protection afforded by a cosmetic sunscreen composition is related to the amount, type and combination of UV filters contained therein. Particularly, cosmetic sunscreen compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, a desirable balance between UVA and UVB protection, particularly a minimum UVA protection factor, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application.
  • SPF Sun Protection Factor
  • a cosmetic sunscreen composition that not only confers photoprotection of keratinous materials, but also provides additional properties.
  • a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF, with the capability of tinting the skin to correct imperfections, preferably with high coverage and velvety feeling on the skin, that is capable of suiting different skin tones, thereby providing a makeup effect.
  • the degree of coverage provided by a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition when applied to the skin, is directly related to the amount of pigments present in the composition.
  • the velvety feeling on the skin is obtained by using silicone in the formulation, particularly dimethicone.
  • tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions results in stability issues in the formulation, especially the migration of the pigments to the surface of the composition, even creating discoloration spots on said surface.
  • the silicone tends to separate from the composition, resulting in a separate phase, which is not desired. These issues are intensified in darker shades of tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions.
  • Water-in-oil emulsions are highly sought-after galenical forms, due to the ease with which they are applied to the skin and their sensory properties in cosmetics in the care field, particularly in cosmetic sunscreen compositions, in anti-ageing compositions and in makeup, such as foundation.
  • Water-in-oil emulsions do not always exhibit, on the one hand, storage stability that is entirely satisfactory equally at low temperatures (i.e: 4°C), at ambient temperature (i.e: 25°C) and at high temperatures (i.e: 45°C and 55°C) and, on the other hand, sensory properties that are entirely satisfactory, such as softness, a non-tacky effect, a non-greasy effect, velvety feeling on the skin, a feeling of lightness after application, or a good glide.
  • a water-in-oil tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF and a high quantity of pigments in order to provide a high color coverage payoff when applied to the skin is desired, which is stable, provides sensory properties that are entirely satisfactory and does not present migration and separation of pigments and silicone on the surface of the composition.
  • the inventors of the present invention have surprisingly managed to develop a tinted water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF, with satisfactory balance between UVA and UVB protection and high amounts of pigments, providing a high coverage effect similar to a makeup on the skin, while preserving good sensorial attributes and stability.
  • the present invention is directed to new water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions, particularly for caring, for making up and for photoprotection of the skin comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone is specified.
  • the present invention is also directed to the use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition and to a process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition.
  • Figs. 1 , 2 and 3 demonstrate the results of the Stability Test of Example 1 1 , wherein Fig. 1 is related to the results of the state-of-the-art composition of Example 5, while Figs. 2 and 3 are respectively related to the results of the inventive water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Examples 8 and 10.
  • the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises:
  • the amount of the at least one pigment in the water- in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention ranges from about 10.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 15.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the at least one UV filter in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention ranges from about 20.0 to about 30.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 20.0 to about 25.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of dimethicone in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention ranges from about 10.0 to about 15.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 10.0 to about 13.0 % by weight.
  • the weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranges from about 1 :0.35 to about 1 :0.50, more preferably from about 1 :0.40 to about 1 :0.45.
  • water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention may further comprise additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from active compounds, fillers, preserving agents, silicones other than dimethicone, solvents other than water, surfactants, vitamins and mixtures thereof.
  • the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention has a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) ranging from about 30 to about 80, more preferably from about 40 to about 70, even more preferably of about 60.
  • the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a SPF of about 30, about 35, about 40, about 45, about 50, about 55, about 60, about 65, about 70, about 75 or about 80.
  • the UVA protection factor provided by the composition according to the present invention is at least 20.
  • the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention can be used as a daily product for the skin, particularly for caring, for making up and for the photoprotection of the skin.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of said water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition for manufacturing a product for caring, for making up and for the photoprotection of the skin with high SPF and with high color coverage.
  • the present invention is directed to a process for manufacturing said water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, wherein the process comprises the steps of: i) adding to a main vessel the water, the UV filter, the dimethicone and the optionally additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients at a temperature ranging from about 20 to about 60 °C, ii) adding to the main vessel the at least one pigment at a temperature ranging from about 25 to about 30 °C.
  • the step (i) is carried out in two different sub steps, wherein: 1.1 ) the aqueous phase ingredients are firstly mixed to each other in the main vessel, therefore forming an aqueous phase, and
  • water-in-oil composition and similar mean a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, also referred as inverse emulsion.
  • dimethicone means at least one silicone ingredient having INCI name dimethicone.
  • the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
  • All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
  • compositions and methods of the present disclosure can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
  • a mixture thereof also relates to “mixtures thereof.”
  • A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”
  • A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”
  • the term, “a mixture thereof’ does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”
  • a salt thereof also relates to “salts thereof.”
  • the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of A,
  • B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B,
  • C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
  • the salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.
  • compositions of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.
  • the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises at least one pigment.
  • pigments is intended to mean white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit. These pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.
  • the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
  • mineral pigment is intended to mean any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
  • mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder.
  • the following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2Os, TiaOs, TiaOa, TiO, ZrOa as a mixture with TiC , ZrO2, Nb20s, CeO2, ZnS.
  • the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.
  • examples that may be mentioned more particularly include titanium dioxides and iron oxides coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
  • Other preferred examples include titanium dioxides and iron oxides coated with disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminium hydroxide.
  • the "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
  • the coating may represent from about 0.1 to about 20.0 % by weight and in particular from about 0.5 to about 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
  • the coating may be performed, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
  • the coating may be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is in particular described in patent US 4 578 266.
  • the chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited at the surface of the pigments.
  • the amount of the at least one pigment in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention ranges from about 10.0 to about 25.0 % by weight, preferably from about 10.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, more preferably from about 15.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the UV filters of the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients and water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients.
  • Non-limiting suitable organic UV filters of the present invention are further described below.
  • oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in an oil phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oil fatty phase.
  • Non-limiting examples of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071 , US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as
  • cinnamic derivatives include, but are not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
  • Suitable dibenzoylmethane derivatives include, but are not limited to, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
  • suitable salicylic derivatives include, but are not limited to, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, dipropylene glycol salicylate and TEA salicylate.
  • Beta, beta -Diphenylacrylate derivatives
  • Suitable beta, beta -diphenylacrylate derivatives include, but are not limited to, octocrylene and etocrylene.
  • benzophenone derivatives include, but are not limited to, benzophenone-1 , benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate +” or as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate.
  • Suitable benzylidenecamphor derivatives include, but are not limited to, 3-benzylidene camphor manufactured, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor manufactured.
  • Suitable phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include, but are not limited to, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion.
  • triazine derivatives include, but are not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6- tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)s triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, symmetrical triazine screening agents described in patent US 6,225,467, patent application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM Inc., West Henrietta, NY, US
  • An example of a suitable anthranilic derivative includes, but is not limited to, menthyl anthranilate.
  • An example of a suitable imidazoline derivative includes, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
  • Benzalmalonate derivative includes, but is not limited to, polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance polysilicone-15.
  • An example of a suitable 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative includes, but is not limited to, 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenyl-butadiene.
  • benzoxazole derivative includes, but is not limited to, 2,4-bis[5-(1 -dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl) imino-1 ,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the “water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
  • Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (Ecamsule), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 4-Bis(polyethoxy)-para-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA), camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole), disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium), and tris-biphenyl triazine; their derivatives and corresponding salts; naphthalene bisimide derivatives such as those described in European patent application EP1990372 A2, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated
  • the salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; salts of ammonium of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2- hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts.
  • Salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used.
  • the sodium salt is preferably used.
  • the at least one UV filter of the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, homosalate and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one UV filter includes ethylhexyl salicylate in a concentration of no more than about 5.0 % by weight.
  • the amount of the at least one UV filter in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention preferably ranges from about 15.0 to about 35.0 % by weight, more preferably from about 20.0 to about 30.0 % by weight, even more preferably from about 20.0 to about 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises water.
  • the water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or deionized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le- Saunier, water from Eaux-Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from T ercis-les-Bains or water from Avene.
  • Water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say
  • the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention has a weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranging from about 1 :0.30 to about 1 :0.55, more preferably from about 1 :0.35 to about 1 :0.50, even more preferably from about 1 :0.40 to about 1 :0.45.
  • the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from active compounds, fillers, preserving agents, silicones other than dimethicone, solvents other than water, surfactants, vitamins and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition may also comprise at least one silicone ingredient different than dimethicone, which may be caprylyl methicone, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, among others.
  • Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.
  • Additional suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propanediol, ethanol and mixtures thereof.
  • Adequate surfactants may be selected from fatty acid ester of a polyol chosen from the esters of polyhydroxystearic acid and of dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a mixture of polyglycerol with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 2 to 5 units of 12-hydroxystearic acid; (ii) linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 4 to 14 carbon atoms, and (iii) saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid ester of a polyol is polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate.
  • Adequate surfactants are also selected from polyethylene glycol esters, particularly PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate.
  • the solvents other than water are present in a concentration from about 0.5 to about 30.0 % by weight, or from about 5.0 to about 25.0 % by weight, or from about 5.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
  • Suitable additional actives compounds include, but are not limited to disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, magnesium sulfate, caffeine and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition may also comprise at least one filler, such as silica, polylactic acid, disteardimonium hectorite, mica, and kaolin.
  • at least one filler such as silica, polylactic acid, disteardimonium hectorite, mica, and kaolin.
  • Preferred embodiments of mica include synthetic mica having INCI name synthetic fluorphlogopite.
  • Suitable vitamins according to the present invention may include niacinamide and tocopherol.
  • the additional ingredients may represent from about 10.0 to about 60.0 %, such as from about 15.0 to about 55.0 %, such as from about 15.0 to about 50.0 %, or such as from about 15.0 to about 30.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • An example of a suitable water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • Another suitable water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • Water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the state-of- the-art are represented in Examples 1 to 5 and suitable water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention are represented by Examples 6 to 10, as follows:
  • a test was performed in order to evaluate the stability of the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of Examples 8 and 10 of the present invention, compared to the stability of a state-of-the-art composition of Example 5.
  • compositions were placed in stability from 16 to 72 hours, after manufacture, in both containing glasses, which were then submitted to:
  • compositions were then microscopic and macroscopic evaluated, in order to assess their behavior of stability and physical chemistry.
  • Figs. 1 , 2 and 3 wherein Fig. 1 is related to the results of the state-of-the-art composition of Example 5 and Figs. 2 and 3 are respectively related to the results of the inventive compositions according to Examples 8 and 10.
  • compositions according to Examples 8 and 10 did not present instability of the formulation, nor migration of the pigments or dimethicone to the surface, whereas the composition of Example 5 was clearly instable, with a behavior of migration of red iron oxide and dimethicone, resulting in a silicone supernatant.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne de nouvelles compositions d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile, en particulier pour le soin, pour le maquillage et la photoprotection de la peau comprenant (a) au moins un pigment, (b) au moins un filtre UV, (c) de la diméthicone et (d) de l'eau, le rapport pondéral entre l'eau et la diméthicone étant spécifié. La présente invention concerne également l'utilisation d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile, et un procédé de fabrication d'une composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile.
EP21704168.0A 2021-01-29 2021-01-29 Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile, utilisation de composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile et procédé de fabrication de composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile Pending EP4284320A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/BR2021/050045 WO2022160020A1 (fr) 2021-01-29 2021-01-29 Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile, utilisation de composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile et procédé de fabrication de composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile

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EP4284320A1 true EP4284320A1 (fr) 2023-12-06

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EP21704168.0A Pending EP4284320A1 (fr) 2021-01-29 2021-01-29 Composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile, utilisation de composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile et procédé de fabrication de composition d'écran solaire cosmétique eau-dans-huile

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EP (1) EP4284320A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2024504488A (fr)
CN (1) CN116829119A (fr)
FR (1) FR3119316A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2022160020A1 (fr)

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CN116829119A (zh) 2023-09-29
JP2024504488A (ja) 2024-01-31
WO2022160020A1 (fr) 2022-08-04
FR3119316A1 (fr) 2022-08-05

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