Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
  • A61K8/0229—Sticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
  • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
  • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
  • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
  • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the cosmetics field and in particular to a cosmetic composition having properties of shine and of retention of shine over time.
• “Double action” lip makeup products are in fact known with the application of a first composition to provide the color and the application of a second composition for the deposition of a shiny film.
• a first composition to provide the color
• a second composition for the deposition of a shiny film.
• the Applicant has rightly demonstrated that the combined use of two immiscible oils, a particular resin and particular polymers for holding, made it possible to meet this need.
• the present invention thus makes it possible, by the formation of a transparent film on the surface resulting from the demixing of the two immiscible oils, to obtain an immediate shine greater than or equal to that of the lip varnishes available on the market with a hold of the. shine improved over time.
• the invention further exhibits properties of color fastness over time and of non-transfer of color which are particularly remarkable, due to the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the film applied to the lips.
• composition of the invention is a homogeneous composition which can be provided in liquid, semi-solid or solid form. More specifically, it will be a makeup composition for the lips for application in a single step.
• An aim of the invention is to provide a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular a make-up composition for the lips in a single step, exhibiting improved shine and gloss retention properties.
• a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase and at least: a) a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I)
• - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl
• OR ' represents a group - OSiMe3
• y varies between 1 and 1000
• z varies between 1 and 1000
• acrylate polymers chosen from the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide,
• the composition of the invention is a homogeneous composition.
• the term “homogeneous” is understood to mean that the composition of the invention has the same characteristics and / or the same properties in all its parts.
• the composition of the invention is in particular of visually homogeneous or uniform appearance, that is to say that each of the phases which it comprises cannot be individualized with the naked eye, as opposed to a multiphase composition 'or 'biphasic' in which the phases are distinct to the naked eye or in which areas are observed which do not have the same characteristics and / or the same properties.
• This homogeneous and stable appearance is characteristic of the composition when it is in the form of bulk or in its packaging unit.
• the coexistence of immiscible oils in the composition produces a demixing of the oils and the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the makeup film applied to the keratin materials.
• a fatty phase texturizing agent such as a pasty fatty substance, a wax, a polymer or any soluble or dispersed gelling or thickening agent.
• the texturing agent will be chosen from a wax, a pasty fatty substance or a mixture thereof.
• the composition of the invention can be more or less viscous.
• the total content of texturizing agent (s) in the composition of the invention will generally range from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the lowest values (close to 3%), the composition of the invention may be in a fluid, homogeneous, slightly viscous form.
• the composition of the invention can also be in semi-solid form, or even in solid form, with higher contents of texturing agents.
• the composition is in semi-solid or solid form at 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.
• 'semi-solid' is meant a composition having a consistency or a texture which is neither liquid, that is to say that it does not flow spontaneously under its own weight at 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg), nor solid because it has a hardness less than 30 Nnrr 1 .
• solid is understood to mean a composition exhibiting, at a temperature of 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), a hardness greater than 30 Nnrr 1 , preferably greater than 40 Nnrr 1 .
• the hardness can be measured at 20 ° C by the so-called “butter-cutting thread” method, which consists of cutting transversely a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, using a rigid metal wire of diameter 250 ⁇ m by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min.
• the hardness of the samples is expressed in g and can be measured using a texturometer of the TAXT Plus type Texturometer.
• the semi-solid or solid texture of the composition not only makes it possible to manufacture particular shapes, for example a stick (sticks) but also to further improve the homogeneity of the composition in bulk form or in its packaging unit, all by allowing the demixing of the oils and the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the film applied to the lips at the time of its application to the lips.
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application, to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition as defined according to the invention.
• composition is a makeup composition and preferably a makeup composition for the lips.
• a first subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase and at least: a) a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I)
• - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl
• OR ' represents a group - OSiMe3
• y varies between 1 and 1000
• z varies between 1 and 1000
• acrylate polymers chosen from the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide,
• the composition will also comprise a texturizing, gelling and / or structuring agent, in particular pasty fatty substances, waxes or their mixture, which make it possible to stabilize the system, or even to freeze it, without disturbing the result of hold and shine.
• a texturizing, gelling and / or structuring agent in particular pasty fatty substances, waxes or their mixture, which make it possible to stabilize the system, or even to freeze it, without disturbing the result of hold and shine.
• the composition of the invention will comprise a pasty fatty substance, a wax or a mixture thereof, and preferably in a total amount ranging from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. .
• the composition of the invention is in the form of a homogeneous fluid composition, when it is in the form of bulk or in its packaging unit.
• the composition of the invention is in the form of a semi-solid composition.
• the composition of the invention is in the form of a solid composition.
• it will be a semi-solid or solid composition, and more preferably a solid composition.
• the C8-C30 fatty alcohol and the branched dextrin ester are chosen to allow the color to adhere to keratin materials.
• oils and semi-solid fatty substances can advantageously be added.
• powdery fillers can advantageously be added.
• additional oils which are eliminated on application and the formation of the film can also be added.
• composition of the invention therefore comprises at least one oily phase.
• oil phase is understood to mean an oil or a mixture of oils.
• oil is intended to mean a fatty substance which is insoluble in water and which is liquid at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.
• An oily phase according to the invention can comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
• silicone oil is understood to mean, according to the invention, an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
• hydrocarbon oil is meant according to the invention an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
• the composition of the invention will in particular comprise at least one phenyl silicone oil and one hydrocarbon oil.
• composition of the invention comprises at least one phenyl silicone oil.
• phenylated silicone oil according to the invention means an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one phenyl group.
• the phenylated silicone oil according to the invention is in particular chosen from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxanes and mixtures thereof.
• the composition of the invention comprises a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) [Chem 1] in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group - OSiMe3 and y varies between 1 and 1000, z varies between 1 and 1000.
• the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, in particular from 15 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil of formula (I), preferably an oil of the INCI name trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone.
• the composition can also comprise a second phenylated silicone oil distinct from the first and having a formula (II) [Chem 2]. in which the groups R represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, at least three of them, or even at least four of them, or even at least five of them being a phenyl.
• the composition of the invention comprises, as second non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, a compound of formula (III)
• Such a phenylated silicone is in particular manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or also Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1, 3,5-trimethyl 1, 1, 3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane, INCI name : trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane).
• Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used.
• the reference PH-1555 HRI (INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) will be used.
• the second phenylated silicone oil distinct from the first phenylated silicone oil described above is present in a content ranging from 2 to 12% by weight, in particular from 4 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the first and second silicone phenylated oil are present in the composition in a weight ratio (% 1st oil non-volatile silicone phenylated /% 2 nd oil non-volatile silicone phenylated) ranging from 2 to 6, in particular of 3 to 5.
• compositions according to the invention also comprise at least one fatty alcohol.
• the fatty alcohols can be represented by the formula ROH, R representing a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, more particularly comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
• the aforementioned R radical is a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30, in particular from 10 to 24, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
• fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic or even natural origin. Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as, for example, ether alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols.
• the C8-C30 fatty alcohol is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof .
• octyldodecanol will be used. Mention may in particular be made of ISOFOL 20 from SASOL.
• the amount of fatty alcohol in the composition according to the invention will range from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the weight total of said composition for a solid formula.
• the branched dextrin ester according to the invention may comprise an esterified chain or several esterified chains, which are identical or different. It may for example be a dextrin esterified with several identical or different fatty acids.
• These esters of dextrin can be prepared using conventional esterification methods. For example, the following methods can be implemented:
• Dextrin having an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150 is reacted with one or more branched fatty acid derivatives as well as with, where appropriate, one or more derivatives of other fatty acids, in proportions required to obtain the dextrin ester described above.
• Dextrin having an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150 is reacted in a first step, with one or more branched fatty acid derivatives, then in a second step, with one or more derivatives of a or more of the other fatty acids, in the proportions required to obtain the dextrin ester described above.
• halides, acid anhydrides are used as fatty acid derivatives.
• the dextrin is dispersed in a reaction solvent, and a catalyst is added thereto, if necessary. This mixture is reacted by adding the above-mentioned fatty acid derivative (s), preferably halides.
• process 1) these derivatives are mixed and added simultaneously to the reaction mixture, and in process 2) the derivatives are introduced successively.
• solvent mention may be made of dimethylformamide, formamide, acetamide, ketones, aromatic compounds such as benzene, toluene, xylene, dioxane, or their mixtures.
• the suitable catalysts are usually chosen from tertiary amine compounds such as pyridine, picoline.
• the reaction temperature is generally chosen as a function of the starting derivatives of the fatty acid (s). It is generally between 0 and 100 ° C.
• the dextrin esters are then purified in the usual way.
• the branched ester of dextrin is an ester of dextrin, for which the dextrin has an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 3 to 150, and for which the fatty acid (s) comprise (s) from 50% to 100% in moles, based on the total amount of fatty acid (s), one or more saturated branched fatty acids having from 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less than 50% by moles, based of the total quantity of fatty acid (s), of one or more other fatty acids chosen from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, unsaturated linear or branched fatty acids, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and for which the degree substitution of dextrin by the fatty acid (s) is 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose.
• dextrin esters are described in particular in European application EP 2537865.
• the branched ester of dextrin is chosen from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, l. dextrin isononanoate, as well as mixtures thereof.
• the branched ester of dextrin is dextrin isostearate.
• the branched dextrin ester is present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the percentage of branched ester of dextrin is between 10% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 12% and 18% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
• composition of the invention advantageously further comprises a fat-soluble polymer, chosen from the group consisting of:
• acrylate polymers chosen from the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide,
• the fat-soluble polymer can be a polymer intended to provide hold and / or to form a film (so-called “film-forming” polymer).
• film-forming polymer means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support.
• the word polymer can denote a homopolymer or a copolymer.
• copolymer is meant a polymer comprising at least two monomers or two different blocks, which may be of the same chemical family but of different structure.
• liposoluble film-forming polymer means a film-forming polymer dissolved in the liquid fatty phase, for example in the phenylated silicone oil according to the invention.
• the film-forming polymer can be of natural or synthetic origin.
• the acrylate polymers used in the present invention act as hold polymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms act as film-forming polymers.
• VP vinylpyrrolidone
• alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms
• the acrylate polymers which can be used in the composition of the invention are advantageously chosen from: silicone acrylate polymers, in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, and in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (such as for example KP-545 from Shin- Etsu), acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone (such as KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (such as KP-550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate / methacrylate polytriméthylsiloxy, and in particular the acrylate / methacrylate polytriméthylsiloxy in dimethicone (such as DM FA-4003 from Dow Corning ®), acrylate / methacrylate polytriméthylsiloxy in isod
• the acrylate polymers used in the composition of the invention are present in a content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
• Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene are present in a content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
• copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and of alkene which can be used in the composition of the invention comprise an alkene chain of at least 18 carbon atoms, in particular a C18-C30 alkene chain, such as VP / eicosene copolymers , VP / triacontanyl.
• VP vinylpyrrolidone
• VP vinylpyrrolidone copolymers comprising a linear C20-C30 alkene chain
• ANTARON V 220 F eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer
• UNIMER U-6 UNIMER U-6
• the VP and alkene copolymers used in the composition of the invention are present in a content ranging from 8 to 20% by weight, in particular 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the composition of the invention will comprise at least one copolymer of VP and C18-C30 alkene as described above, in particular a VP / eicosene copolymer marketed under the name ANTARON V 220 F (INCI : eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer) by the company Ashland.
• the composition of the invention will comprise an acrylate polymer as defined above and a copolymer of VP and C18-C30 alkene as described above.
• the composition of the invention will comprise a liposoluble film-forming polymer chosen from a copolymer of acrylates and acrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and of alkene comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, of preferably chosen from a copolymer of acrylate and of t-butylacrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) eicosene, and preferably a mixture thereof.
• a liposoluble film-forming polymer chosen from a copolymer of acrylates and acrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and of alkene comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, of preferably chosen from a copolymer of acrylate and of t-butylacrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) eicosene, and preferably a mixture thereof.
• the total content of liposoluble film-forming polymers in the composition of the invention may range from 8 to 25% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
• The% of liposoluble film-forming polymer is expressed in% by weight of active material (a.i.) relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition of the invention comprises at least the following ingredients: trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone octyldodecanol dextrin isostearate and a VP / eicosene copolymer.
• the composition of the invention comprises at least the following ingredients: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane octyldodecanol dextrin isostearate an acrylate / t-butylacrylamide copolymer and advantageously a VP / eicosene copolymer.
• the fatty phase of the composition of the invention is generally textured or structured by a texturing agent, in particular a wax, a pasty fatty substance, or a mixture thereof.
• the composition of the invention will comprise a pasty fatty substance, a wax or a mixture thereof, and preferably in a total amount ranging from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. .
• composition of the invention will further comprise at least one wax, making it possible to stabilize or even set the system without disturbing the result of hold and shine.
• wax within the meaning of the present invention, is intended to denote a compound which is solid at 25 ° C. which exhibits a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point greater than 30 ° C., preferably greater than 45 ° C.
• Mention may be made of natural (sunflower wax, berry wax), microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, carnauba wax, beeswax, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols comprising 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8- chains.
• C32 such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with a fatty alcohol, candelilla wax, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, waxes obtained by catalysis metallocene and lanolin wax.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one candelilla wax.
• a composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content ranging from 2% to 20%, for example from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the invention relates, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising from 3% to 15% by weight of waxes relative to the total weight of said composition.
• Pasty fatty substance
• the composition of the invention may comprise a pasty fatty substance.
• the term “pasty fatty compound” or “pasty compound” or “pasty fatty substance” denotes a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
• the pasty compound is, for example, chosen from the group consisting of triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof.
• the pasty compound is chosen from fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, such as caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic triglyceride.
• a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of pasty compounds ranging from 1% to 10%, for example from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition of the invention further comprises an additional ingredient chosen from oils, fillers, pasty fatty substances, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.
• the invention may also include other silicone or hydrocarbon oils, different from the oils described above, to provide lightness and hold to the film deposited on the skin.
• oils are spontaneously eliminated upon application and the formation of the film on the lips.
• These oils may in particular be chosen from dimethicones 0.5 to 6cst, branched alkanes Cs-Ci 6, linear alkanes C9-C15 branched esters of Cs-Ci 6 and mixtures thereof.
• the oil is chosen from branched C 1 -C 6 alkanes, in particular isododecane, or linear C9-C13 alkanes.
• linear alkanes suitable for the invention mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof.
• the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and their mixtures.
• n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) such as those sold under the name CETIOL by the company BASF and mixtures of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane. (C14) such as those sold under the name VEGELIGHT by the company GRANT INDUSTRIES as well as their mixtures.
• these oils can be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, in particular from 4 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
• composition of the invention may advantageously comprise fillers for reducing the feeling of tackiness which may gradually appear on the lips due to the presence of the branched ester of dextrin.
• fillers should be understood to mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, of a mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in a form (platelet, spherical or oblong), insoluble and dispersed in the middle of the composition.
• the fillers are chosen in particular from silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, oxides of zinc and of titanium; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; powders of synthetic polymers, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone or silicone resin powders; cellulose powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxides; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat or rice starches, crosslinked or not, and mixtures thereof.
• synthetic polymers such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone or silicone resin powders; cellulose powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxides; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as
• cellulose powders As preferred fillers, there may be mentioned in particular cellulose powders, silicone powders, in particular the powders with the INCI name Silicon dioxide, and mixtures thereof.
• the fillers may be present in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• a composition of the invention is in particular a makeup composition comprising at least one coloring material.
• coloring material means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.
• a coloring material can be chosen from water-soluble or non-water-soluble, liposoluble or non-organic or inorganic coloring materials, materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.
• the coloring material (s) are chosen in particular from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.
• pigments means white or colored particles, inorganic or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Mention may be made of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on inorganic and / or organic materials).
• organic pigments mention may be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), optionally surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue chromium oxide hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.
• titanium dioxide rutile or anatase
• manganese violet ultramarine blue chromium oxide hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.
• organic pigments mention may be made, for example, of D & C red pigments No. 19; D & C red n ° 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D & C Yellow # 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D & C red n ° 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D&C Yellow No. 5; D & C Red n ° 36 ;; D&C Red No. 33; D&C Orange No. 10; D & C yellow n ° 6; ; D&C Red No. 30; D & C red n ° 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black and cochineal carmine-based lakes.
• the coloring material (s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, preferably from 4% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.
• anhydrous is meant in particular that water is preferably not added to the compositions but can be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions.
• the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water.
• the composition is a semi-solid composition as defined above.
• the composition of the invention is a solid composition.
• the composition of the invention is a makeup and / or care composition for keratin materials, in particular a makeup and / or care composition for the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips.
• a makeup composition for the skin there may be mentioned in particular a solid foundation, an eye shadow, a blush, an eye liner, an eye pencil, or mascara cake.
• makeup composition for the lips there may be mentioned in particular a stick for the lips, a lip contour pencil, or a lip balm.
• it will be a solid composition for making up the lips, in particular a stick or lipstick.
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials comprising the application, to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to l 'invention.
• composition applied to the lips is preferably a solid composition for making up the lips, in particular a stick or lipstick.
• the process according to the invention is in particular a process for making up the lips, intended to deposit on said lips a shiny and long-lasting film of shine and color.
• Example 1 Selection of an oil to combine with phenylated silicone oil 1.1 Behavior of binary mixtures
• the Applicant has evaluated the ability of a phenylated silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) to mix or not with various compounds and hydrocarbon or silicone oils.
• the selected oils are used for the preparation of a colored test formula comprising the phenyl silicone oil and additionally pigments.
• the formula has the following composition (% by weight)
• test formula is packaged in a vial.
• the test formula is out of phase at rest, taking into account the immiscibility of the oils. It must therefore be shaken before the application step on the lips.
• test formula when it is applied to the lips is evaluated in vivo on a panel of experts, namely the appearance of a transparent film on the surface of the colored film and the capacity of this film not to transfer the color ('non-transfer' effect).
• the demixing effect is observed on the lips after application of the film, and the non-transfer of the color evaluated by applying a support (eg a finger or a paper tissue) to the lips several times at a few minutes intervals. .
• a support eg a finger or a paper tissue
• octyldodecanol a C8-C30 fatty alcohol
• Example 2 Selection of film-forming agents The Applicant tested several film-forming agents (resins or polymers) to identify those which could form a homogeneous colored film, while retaining the phenomenon of demixing linked to the presence of immiscible oils.
• homogeneous film is meant a film which spreads evenly over the lips and has a smooth finish of uniform color, without surface or color irregularities.
• test formula is prepared according to Table 4 below, comprising a film-forming agent and binary mixture selected in Example 1.
• test formula is applied to the lips.
• homogeneity of the film is evaluated once the formula is applied to the lips (Table 5)
• composition is prepared according to Table 8, which contains both the film-forming agent and the oil selected in the previous examples:
• the pigments are ground in the presence of octyldodecanol. This pigment phase is heated to 95 ° C
• dextrin isostearate is dispersed in octyldodecanol at 95 ° C using a Rayneri. After homogenization, the phenyl silicone oil is added.
• the two phases prepared above are mixed and homogenized while hot.
• the X-hold polymer is added to the composition obtained in the previous step.
• composition is poured into suitable packaging, then cooled.
• compositions prepared are evaluated using the protocol below:
• an eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer and / or an acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer will preferably be used.
• Example 4 Compositions according to the invention
• compositions are illustrated with hold polymers, but it is also possible to prepare compositions without hold polymer (qs on oils, resin and waxes) and obtain completely acceptable gloss and non-transfer performance.
• hold polymers further improves the hold of said compositions.
• compositions comprising hold polymers are prepared according to the following procedure:
• the resin branched dextrin ester
• a holding polymer acrylate / butyl acrylamide copolymer
• a second strength polymer VP / eicosene copolymer
• the waxes are added and the mixture is stirred for 20 min.
• the pigments are ground in the remainder of octyldodecanol. This pigment phase is added to the rest of the formula, then homogenized.
• Phenylated silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) is added to the preparation with hot stirring for at least 20-30 min.
• oils and semi-solid fatty substances are added and the mixture is stirred for 15 min.
• the powder charges are then added and the mixture is stirred for 20-30 min.
• isododecane is added and allowed to homogenize for a maximum of 2 minutes.
• composition is packaged in a suitable compartment.
• composition is prepared according to the procedure described above and packaged in a pack of the bottle type for gloss. It has a visually homogeneous appearance.
• TTable 111 The composition is prepared according to the procedure described above and packaged in a pack of stick type for lipstick. The stick is visually homogeneous in appearance.
• composition 4.1 the composition leaves a glossy film on the lips.
• the film's shine hold is enhanced to last throughout the day, while remaining comfortable.
• 4-3 Solid composition for the lips (anhydrous stick)
• Fable 121 The composition, without a hold-up polymer, is prepared according to the procedure described above and packaged in a pack of the stick type for lipstick. The solid composition is visually homogeneous.
• composition leaves a shiny film on the lips.
• the gloss of the film is improved, thanks to the compounds of phases A, D1 and D2, to last throughout the day, while remaining comfortable.
• composition leaves a glossy, comfortable and good hold film on the lips.

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• 2019
  • 2019-12-20 FR FR1915241A patent/FR3104991B1/fr active Active
• 2020
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