EP3418068A1 - Piece of jewellery and tool and method for making the piece of jewellery - Google Patents
Piece of jewellery and tool and method for making the piece of jewellery Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP3418068A1 EP3418068A1 EP18172563.1A EP18172563A EP3418068A1 EP 3418068 A1 EP3418068 A1 EP 3418068A1 EP 18172563 A EP18172563 A EP 18172563A EP 3418068 A1 EP3418068 A1 EP 3418068A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- optical elements
- piece
- angle
- optical
- openings
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 5
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 130
- 239000010437 gem Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 229910001751 gemstone Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 239000010970 precious metal Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 230000001795 light effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000005482 strain hardening Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000000295 complement effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000010432 diamond Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910003460 diamond Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000003754 machining Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- UONOETXJSWQNOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N tungsten carbide Chemical compound [W+]#[C-] UONOETXJSWQNOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 238000010348 incorporation Methods 0.000 description 8
- 230000002349 favourable effect Effects 0.000 description 5
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000007769 metal material Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229910000510 noble metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 229910001316 Ag alloy Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 229910001020 Au alloy Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 230000005540 biological transmission Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 2
- PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N gold Chemical compound [Au] PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000010931 gold Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 238000000465 moulding Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000004381 surface treatment Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229910001260 Pt alloy Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silver Chemical compound [Ag] BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002969 artificial stone Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005266 casting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002985 plastic film Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920006255 plastic film Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000004080 punching Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012216 screening Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004332 silver Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009827 uniform distribution Methods 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
- A44C17/043—Setting-tools
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C15/00—Other forms of jewellery
- A44C15/004—Jewellery with monograms or other inscription
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C9/00—Finger-rings
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
- B44B—MACHINES, APPARATUS OR TOOLS FOR ARTISTIC WORK, e.g. FOR SCULPTURING, GUILLOCHING, CARVING, BRANDING, INLAYING
- B44B11/00—Artists' hand tools for sculpturing, kneading, carving, engraving, guilloching or embossing; Accessories therefor
- B44B11/04—Artists' hand tools for sculpturing, kneading, carving, engraving, guilloching or embossing; Accessories therefor for embossing
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
- B44C—PRODUCING DECORATIVE EFFECTS; MOSAICS; TARSIA WORK; PAPERHANGING
- B44C1/00—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects
- B44C1/24—Pressing or stamping ornamental designs on surfaces
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
- B44F—SPECIAL DESIGNS OR PICTURES
- B44F1/00—Designs or pictures characterised by special or unusual light effects
- B44F1/02—Designs or pictures characterised by special or unusual light effects produced by reflected light, e.g. matt surfaces, lustrous surfaces
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C25/00—Miscellaneous fancy ware for personal wear, e.g. pendants, crosses, crucifixes, charms
- A44C25/005—Crosses or crucifixes
Definitions
- the invention relates to a piece of jewelry made of a precious metal or gemstone material according to the preamble of claim 1 and a tool and a method for producing the piece of jewelry.
- the piece of jewelry can in this case in particular be made of a gold, silver or platinum alloy or of gemstones, semiprecious stones or artificial stones.
- the piece of jewelry on a visible surface, such as in particular a molded, turned and / or optionally reworked precious metal surface or a ground facet, wherein on the surface a plurality of first optical elements is provided, which serve to generate light effects.
- the light effects can be formed for example by reflection or dispersion of incident light.
- EP 0648445 A1 describes an arrangement of a plurality of optical elements in the form of grooves on the surface of gemstones.
- the optical elements serve to increase the optical properties of the gem by dispersion of the incident light.
- DE 69814926 T2 describes a possible construction of a retroreflective article for the vehicle sector with improved signal effect.
- the article has two surfaces arranged on top of one another with different optical properties, the lower surface having retroreflective areas and, to this end, optically different separation areas.
- EP 0659590 A1 describes a method for introducing, for example decorative structuring of metal surfaces.
- the structuring is impressed into a surface by means of its preformed plastic film.
- the object of the invention is to avoid the disadvantages mentioned in a piece of jewelry and to produce more intense and individual optical effects.
- the first optical elements each have an array of reflection surfaces, which are embedded in the surface of the precious metal or gemstone material, wherein by means of the arrangement, a retroreflection can be generated.
- particularly intensive light effects can be generated by means of the retroreflective effect of the individual reflection surface arrangements.
- intense light effects can be achieved especially on jewelry pieces of precious metal and the facets of cut gemstones, which convey a particularly high value.
- the light effects can achieve an individual optical effect by appropriate arrangement of the optical elements in certain areas of the surface.
- first optical elements in addition to the retroreflective first optical elements additionally second optical elements embedded in the surface of the precious metal or gemstone material, which produce a relation to the first optical elements different optical effect.
- second optical elements embedded in the surface of the precious metal or gemstone material, which produce a relation to the first optical elements different optical effect.
- the first optical elements and the second optical elements in each case at least partially form a grid extending over the surface.
- a uniform distribution of the optical elements of the surface is achieved, whereby in the also a uniformly distributed optical effect of the light effects can be guaranteed.
- the second optical elements have a different reflection range from the first optical elements.
- the second optical elements may also be formed such that they do not produce retroreflection. As a result, a clear delineation of the areas in which certain light effects are generated by retroreflection of other areas possible.
- a graphic object can be generated by the contrast of the optically differently acting first optical elements with respect to the second optical elements, such as a symbol, a sign, a brand or an ornament.
- first optical elements such as a symbol, a sign, a brand or an ornament.
- the graphical object can be perceived or not depending on a light incidence.
- the first optical elements define first openings and the second optical elements define second openings on the surface, wherein the first openings and the second openings have a matching geometry and size.
- These matching openings allow, despite the different optical effect of the first and second optical elements a harmonious, uniform incorporation of the screening in the surface. In this way, a high-quality effect of the piece of jewelry can be maintained.
- first openings and the second openings are hexagonal, whereby the optical elements can be embedded in the surface with particularly small distances.
- the reflective surface arrangement of the first optical elements in each case six first facet surfaces, each of which two adjacent facet surfaces at an opening edge around a major axis of the first optical element around a circumferential angle of 60 °.
- the six first facet surfaces preferably have three first main facets arranged at a circumferential angle of 120 ° to each other, each enclosing an angle between 53.7 ° and 55.7 ° with a normal plane perpendicular to the main axis of the respective first optical element.
- This geometry of the recessed surface arrangement of the first optical elements embedded in the surface achieves a retroreflective effect over a relatively large reflection area.
- the six first facet surfaces between the first main facets have three first secondary facets, which in each case enclose an angle between five and 15 ° with the normal plane.
- the reflective surface arrangement of the second optical elements also has six second facet surfaces, of which two adjacent facet surfaces at the opening edge around the main axis of the second optical element enclose a circumferential angle of 60 °.
- the six second facet surfaces also preferably have three second main facets which are at a circumferential angle of 120 ° to one another and which enclose an angle between 48 ° and 52 ° with the normal plane.
- the second optical elements on the surface have a shape that largely coincides with the first optical elements, so that the surface can be formed uniformly over the extension of all the optical elements, thereby achieving a high-quality effect.
- the second optical elements have a different reflection range than the first optical elements, so that a different optical effect can be achieved on the surface in the regions of the first optical elements as a function of the respective light incidence than in regions of the second optical elements.
- the six second facet surfaces between the second main facets have three second secondary facets, which in each case enclose an angle between 53.7 ° and 55.7 ° with the normal plane. In this way, the retroreflective effect of the second optical elements can be enhanced.
- the above object is achieved with a tool for producing a piece of jewelry in one of the above-mentioned embodiments, wherein the tool has a forming tip whose surface geometry is formed complementary to the arrangement of the reflecting surfaces of the optical element to be produced and as a press-in or impact point for cold working the surface is formed.
- the optical elements can thus be easily and accurately embedded in the surface of a piece of jewelry to be processed.
- the mold tip is held on a shaft which has a force transmission end facing away from the mold tip.
- the tool can be used in the manner of a punching iron or a machine tool, which is acted upon at the power transmission end by a hammer or by the tool holder of a machine with a force to the predetermined by the shaping tip arrangement of the reflection surfaces in the surface of the piece of jewelry Beat or press in or to incorporate Puntipp.
- the mold tip is made here of tungsten carbide or diamond to ensure a hardness that allows multiple incorporation of the reflective surface array of each manufactured optical element in precious metal material or in gemstones using the same shape tip.
- the above-mentioned object is protected by a method for producing a piece of jewelry in one of the abovementioned embodiments, in which the visible surface is produced in a first step, in particular by molding, turning, grinding and / or other surface treatment.
- a second step a plurality of first optical elements, each with a retroreflecting arrangement of reflection surfaces, are then incorporated into the surface by cold-working machining of the surface.
- This also makes it possible subsequently to produce the desired light effects by incorporation of the optical elements on the surface of a piece of jewelry. It is advantageous if, in the second or a subsequent step adjacent to the first optical elements, the second optical elements are additionally incorporated by cold-working machining of the surface. As a result, the effects that can be generated by the second optical elements can also be subsequently provided on a piece of jewelry.
- the incorporation of the first optical elements and / or the second optical elements takes place by means of at least one computer-controlled cold-forming tool, whereby a particularly precise incorporation of the individual optical elements is possible.
- the optical elements are arranged in the form of a grid on the surface in order to produce a uniform surface structure.
- Fig. 1 shows a portion of a piece of jewelry 2, which is exemplified by a jewelry ring, such as a finger ring or a bracelet.
- the jewel 2 is made of a precious metal material, such as in particular a gold or silver alloy, and forms a visible surface 4.
- the jewel 2 could also have any other known shape or be formed by a gem, in which the visible surface. 4 for example, is formed by a ground facet.
- FIG. 1 it can be seen in the surface 4, a plurality of first optical elements 6 and second optical elements eighth incorporated, which extend in the form of a grid 10 over part of the surface 4.
- both the first optical elements 6 and the second optical elements 8 in each case an array of reflective surfaces 12, 20 which are embedded in the surface 4.
- the first optical elements 6 according to the in FIG. 2 represented element, thereby form in the surface 4 each have a hexagonal first opening 14, from the opening edge 16, six first facet surfaces 18 extend into the precious metal material of the piece of jewelry 2 into it. These facet surfaces 18 are thereby incorporated into the noble metal material around a major axis A of the first optical element 6 in such a way that two adjacent facet surfaces 18 at the opening edge 16 enclose a circulation angle U of approximately 60 °.
- the first facet surfaces 18 have three first main facets 18 A, which are at a circumferential angle UH of 120 ° to each other, wherein between each two main facets 18 A one of three first auxiliary facets 18 B is arranged.
- the first main facets 18 A in each case enclose an angle WH1 of between 53.7 and 55.7 ° with a normal plane E perpendicular to the main axis A.
- the first auxiliary facets 18 B with the normal plane E enclose an angle WN1 between 5 ° and 15 °.
- the first optical elements 6 have a retroreflective function, in which a light L whose light incidence angle LW lies in a predetermined reflection range with respect to the surface 4 is directly reflected back to the light source. In this way, by means of the first optical elements 6 special light effects, such as in particular an intense sparkle, are generated.
- the second reflecting surface arrangement 20 of the second optical elements 8 according to the in FIG. 3 represented element, in the surface 4 also forms in each case a hexagonal second opening 22, of the opening edge 24th six second facet surfaces 26 extend into the noble metal material of the jewel 2.
- These facet surfaces 26 are also incorporated around a main axis A of the second optical element 8 around in the noble metal material, so that each two adjacent facet surfaces 26 at the opening edge 24 enclose a circulation angle U of about 60 °.
- the second facet surfaces 26 have three second main facets 26 A, which are at a circumferential angle UH of 120 ° to each other, wherein between two main facets 26 A one of three second Maufacetten 26 B is arranged.
- the second main facets 26 A in each case enclose an angle WH2 between 48 and 52 ° with the normal plane E spanned perpendicular to the main axis A.
- the second auxiliary facets 26 B with the normal plane E enclose an angle WN 2 between 53.7 ° and 55.7 °.
- the second optical elements 8 have a reflection property which differs from the first optical elements 6.
- the retroreflective effect is generated in a different reflection range, so that depending on the angle of incidence LW on the surface 4, either the first optical elements 6 or the second optical elements can produce a retroreflective effect.
- the graphic object G which is in Fig. 1 exemplified as a cross, this may be formed for example by at least one ornament, a symbol, a brand or any other characters or characters.
- the first optical elements 6 and their reflection surface arrangement 12 by cold working.
- a tool 30 according to Fig. 4 used with a shaping tip 32 whose surface geometry is formed complementary to the reflective surface arrangement 12 of the first optical element 6.
- the shaping tip 32 which is preferably made of tungsten carbide or diamond, is held on a shaft 34 which has a force application end 36 facing away from the molding tip 32.
- the tool 30 can be acted upon by means of a tool holder 38 of a controlled machine 40 via a computer 42 with a force to repatriate the mold tip 32 recurring in the surface 4.
- the incorporation of the grid 10 of the first optical elements 4 in the surface 4 can be made very precisely.
- the incorporation also takes place with a second tool 44, according to FIG. 5 which has a matching construction with the first tool 30, except for a second shaping tip 46 adapted to the geometry of the second reflecting surface arrangement 20 of the second optical elements 6. Also, this second tool 44 can be used as shown by means of the computer-controlled machine 42 or manually.
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Abstract
Ein Schmuckstück (2) aus einem Edelmetall- oder Schmucksteinmaterial weist eine einsehbare Oberfläche (4) auf, wobei an der Oberfläche (4) eine Vielzahl von ersten optischen Elementen (6) zur Erzeugung von Lichteffekten vorgesehen ist. Dabei ist vorgesehen, dass die ersten optischen Elemente (6) jeweils eine Anordnung von in die Oberfläche (4) des Edelmetall- oder Schmucksteinmaterials eingelassenen Reflexionsflächen (12) aufweisen, mittels der eine Retroreflexion erzeugbar ist, und neben den retroreflektierenden ersten optischen Elementen (6) zusätzlich optisch unterschiedlich wirkende zweite optische Elemente (8) in die Oberfläche (4) des Edelmetall- oder Schmucksteinmaterials eingelassen sind. A piece of jewelry (2) made of a precious metal or gemstone material has a visible surface (4), wherein on the surface (4) a plurality of first optical elements (6) is provided for generating light effects. In this case, it is provided that the first optical elements (6) each have an array of reflective surfaces (12) embedded in the surface (4) of the precious metal or gemstone material, by means of which retroreflection can be generated, and adjacent to the retroreflective first optical elements (6 ) additionally optically different acting second optical elements (8) in the surface (4) of the precious metal or gemstone material are embedded.
Description
Die Erfindung betrifft ein Schmuckstück aus einem Edelmetall- oder Schmucksteinmaterial nach dem Oberbegriff des Anspruchs 1 sowie ein Werkzeug und ein Verfahren zur Herstellung des Schmuckstücks. Das Schmuckstück kann hierbei insbesondere aus einer Gold-, Silber- oder Platinlegierung oder aus Edelsteinen, Halbedelsteinen oder Kunststeinen hergestellt sein. In jedem Fall weist das Schmuckstück eine einsehbare Oberfläche, wie insbesondere eine formgegossene, gedrehte und/oder gegebenenfalls nachbearbeitete Edelmetallfläche oder eine geschliffene Facette auf, wobei an der Oberfläche eine Vielzahl von ersten optischen Elementen vorgesehen ist, die zur Erzeugung von Lichteffekten dienen. Die Lichteffekte können dabei beispielsweise durch Reflexion oder Dispersion von einfallendem Licht gebildet sein.The invention relates to a piece of jewelry made of a precious metal or gemstone material according to the preamble of
Nachteilig an den bekannten Schmucksteinen ist, dass der durch die Rillen erzeugbaren optische Effekt relativ gering ist. Darüber hinaus besteht im Markt ein Bedürfnis dahingehend, die Oberfläche von Schmuckstücken mit individuellen optischen Effekten versehen zu können.A disadvantage of the known gemstones that the producible by the grooves optical effect is relatively low. In addition, there is a need in the market to be able to provide the surface of jewelery with individual optical effects.
Die Aufgabe der Erfindung ist es, bei einem Schmuckstück die genannten Nachteile zu vermeiden und intensivere sowie individuelle optische Effekte zu erzeugen.The object of the invention is to avoid the disadvantages mentioned in a piece of jewelry and to produce more intense and individual optical effects.
Diese Aufgabe wird durch ein Schmuckstück mit den Merkmalen des Anspruchs 1 gelöst. Dabei weisen die ersten optischen Elemente jeweils eine Anordnung von Reflexionsflächen auf, die in die Oberfläche des Edelmetall- oder Schmucksteinmaterials eingelassenen sind, wobei mittels der Anordnung eine Retroreflexion erzeugt werden kann. Durch diese direkte Einarbeitung der optischen Elemente in die Oberfläche des Edelmetallmaterials bzw. des Schmucksteinmaterials können somit mittels der retroreflektierenden Wirkung der einzelnen Reflexionsflächenanordnungen besonders intensive Lichteffekte erzeugt werden. Auf diese Weise können insbesondere an Schmuckstücken aus Edelmetall und an den Facetten geschliffener Schmucksteine intensive Lichteffekte erzielt werden, die eine besonders hohe Wertigkeit vermitteln. Zudem können die Lichteffekte durch entsprechende Anordnung der optischen Elemente in bestimmten Bereichen der Oberfläche eine individuelle optische Wirkung erzielen. Hierzu sind neben den retroreflektierenden ersten optischen Elementen zusätzlich zweite optische Elemente in die Oberfläche des Edelmetall- oder Schmucksteinmaterials eingelassen, die eine gegenüber den ersten optischen Elementen unterschiedliche optische Wirkung erzeugen. Hierdurch ist es beispielsweise möglich, in Abhängigkeit der Ausrichtung des Schmuckstücks beziehungsweise in Abhängigkeit eines Lichteinfallwinkels entweder die optische Wirkung der ersten optischen Elemente oder die der zweiten optischen Elemente zu aktivieren und dadurch unterschiedliche optische Effekte zu erzielen.This object is achieved by a piece of jewelry with the features of
In einer besonders vorteilhaften Ausführungsform bilden die ersten optischen Elemente und die zweiten optischen Elemente jeweils wenigstens teilweise eine sich über die Oberfläche erstreckende Rasterung. Hierdurch wird eine gleichmäßige Verteilung der optischen Elemente der Oberfläche erzielt, wodurch in den betreffenden Bereichen auch eine gleichmäßig verteilte optische Wirkung der Lichteffekte gewährleistet werden kann. Zudem sorgt die gerasterte Verteilung der optischen Elemente bei fehlenden Lichteffekten für einen höherwertigeren Eindruck der Oberfläche. Dabei weisen die zweiten optischen Elemente einen von den ersten optischen Elementen unterschiedlichen Reflexionsbereich auf. Auf diese Weise kann bei einem entsprechenden Lichteinfallwinkel, bei dem die ersten optischen Elemente eine Retroreflexion erzeugen, mit den zweiten optischen Elementen eine unterschiedliche Lichtreflexion erzeugt werden, und anders herum, so dass zwischen den Bereichen der Oberfläche mit der ersten optischen Elementen und den Bereichen mit den zweiten optischen Elementen bei einer bestimmten Ausrichtung des Schmuckstückes gegenüber einer Lichtquelle ein wahrnehmbarer Kontrast entsteht.In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the first optical elements and the second optical elements in each case at least partially form a grid extending over the surface. As a result, a uniform distribution of the optical elements of the surface is achieved, whereby in the also a uniformly distributed optical effect of the light effects can be guaranteed. In addition, the screened distribution of the optical elements in the absence of light effects for a higher-quality impression of the surface. In this case, the second optical elements have a different reflection range from the first optical elements. In this way, with a corresponding angle of incidence of light at which the first optical elements produce a retroreflection, a different light reflection can be generated with the second optical elements, and vice versa, so that between the areas of the surface with the first optical elements and the areas with the second optical elements at a certain orientation of the piece of jewelry against a light source creates a perceptible contrast.
Alternativ hierzu können die zweiten optischen Elemente auch derart ausgebildet sein, dass sie keine Retroreflexion erzeugen. Hierdurch ist eine klare Abgrenzung der Bereiche, in denen durch Retroreflexion bestimmte Lichteffekte erzeugt werden, von anderen Bereichen möglich.Alternatively, the second optical elements may also be formed such that they do not produce retroreflection. As a result, a clear delineation of the areas in which certain light effects are generated by retroreflection of other areas possible.
Vorteilhafterweise kann dabei durch den Kontrast der optisch unterschiedlich wirkenden ersten optischen Elemente gegenüber den zweiten optischen Elementen ein grafisches Objekt erzeugt werden, wie beispielsweise ein Symbol, ein Zeichen, eine Marke oder ein Ornament. Auf diese Weise können besonders individuelle optische Effekte an der Oberfläche des Schmuckstücks erzeugt werden, einschließlich der Anzeige von grafischen Objekten mit einem Bedeutungsinhalt. Hierbei kann das grafische Objekt in Abhängigkeit eines Lichteinfalls wahrgenommen werden oder nicht. Auf diese Weise ist es möglich eine vorbestimmte Ausrichtung des Schmuckstückes beziehungsweise vorbestimmte Lichtverhältnisse festzulegen, in Abhängigkeit von denen die optischen Effekte in Erscheinung treten.Advantageously, a graphic object can be generated by the contrast of the optically differently acting first optical elements with respect to the second optical elements, such as a symbol, a sign, a brand or an ornament. In this way, particularly individual optical effects can be generated on the surface of the piece of jewelry, including the display of graphic objects with a meaning content. In this case, the graphical object can be perceived or not depending on a light incidence. In this way, it is possible to set a predetermined orientation of the piece of jewelry or predetermined lighting conditions, depending on which the optical effects appear in appearance.
Vorteilhafterweise begrenzen die ersten optischen Elemente erste Öffnungen und die zweiten optischen Elemente zweite Öffnungen an der Oberfläche, wobei die ersten Öffnungen und die zweiten Öffnungen eine übereinstimmende Geometrie und Größe aufweisen. Diese übereinstimmenden Öffnungen ermöglichen trotz der unterschiedlichen optischen Wirkung der ersten und zweiten optischen Elemente eine harmonisch wirkende, gleichmäßige Einarbeitung der Rasterung in die Oberfläche. Auf diese Weise kann eine hochwertige Wirkung des Schmuckstückes beibehalten werden.Advantageously, the first optical elements define first openings and the second optical elements define second openings on the surface, wherein the first openings and the second openings have a matching geometry and size. These matching openings allow, despite the different optical effect of the first and second optical elements a harmonious, uniform incorporation of the screening in the surface. In this way, a high-quality effect of the piece of jewelry can be maintained.
Ferner ist es günstig, wenn die ersten Öffnungen und die zweiten Öffnungen sechseckig ausgebildet sind, wodurch die optischen Elemente mit besonders geringen Abständen in die Oberfläche eingelassen werden können.Furthermore, it is favorable if the first openings and the second openings are hexagonal, whereby the optical elements can be embedded in the surface with particularly small distances.
Vorteilhafterweise weist die Reflexionsflächenanordnung der ersten optischen Elemente jeweils sechs erste Facettenflächen auf, von denen jeweils zwei benachbarte Facettenflächen an einem Öffnungsrand um eine Hauptachse des ersten optischen Elementes herum einen Umlaufwinkel von 60° einschließen.Advantageously, the reflective surface arrangement of the first optical elements in each case six first facet surfaces, each of which two adjacent facet surfaces at an opening edge around a major axis of the first optical element around a circumferential angle of 60 °.
Dabei weisen die sechs ersten Facettenflächen vorzugsweise drei in einem Umlaufwinkel von jeweils 120° zueinanderstehende erste Hauptfacetten auf, die mit einer zur Hauptachse des jeweiligen ersten optischen Elements senkrecht aufgespannten normalen Ebene jeweils einen Winkel zwischen 53,7° und 55,7° einschließen. Durch diese Geometrie der in die Oberfläche eingelassenen Reflexionsflächenanordnung der ersten optischen Elemente wird über einen relativ großen Reflexionsbereich hinweg eine retroreflektierende Wirkung erzielt. Ferner ist es hierbei günstig, wenn die sechs ersten Facettenflächen zwischen den ersten Hauptfacetten drei erste Nebenfacetten aufweisen, die mit der Normalenebene jeweils einen Winkel zwischen fünf und 15° einschließen. Durch die derartige Ausbildung der ersten Nebenfacetten kann die retroreflektierende Wirkung der ersten optischen Elemente weiter verstärkt werden.In this case, the six first facet surfaces preferably have three first main facets arranged at a circumferential angle of 120 ° to each other, each enclosing an angle between 53.7 ° and 55.7 ° with a normal plane perpendicular to the main axis of the respective first optical element. This geometry of the recessed surface arrangement of the first optical elements embedded in the surface achieves a retroreflective effect over a relatively large reflection area. Furthermore, it is favorable in this case if the six first facet surfaces between the first main facets have three first secondary facets, which in each case enclose an angle between five and 15 ° with the normal plane. By designing such first side facets, the retroreflective effect of the first optical elements can be further enhanced.
Vorteilhafterweise weist auch die Reflexionsflächenanordnung der zweiten optischen Elemente jeweils sechs zweite Facettenflächen auf, von denen jeweils zwei benachbarte Facettenflächen am Öffnungsrand um die Hauptachse des zweiten optischen Elementes herum einen Umlaufwinkel von 60° einschließen.Advantageously, the reflective surface arrangement of the second optical elements also has six second facet surfaces, of which two adjacent facet surfaces at the opening edge around the main axis of the second optical element enclose a circumferential angle of 60 °.
Dabei weisen auch die sechs zweiten Facettenflächen vorzugsweise drei in einem Umlaufwinkel von jeweils 120° zueinanderstehende zweite Hauptfacetten auf, die mit der Normalenebene jeweils einen Winkel zwischen 48° und 52° einschließen. Hierdurch weisen die zweiten optischen Elemente an der Oberfläche eine mit den ersten optischen Elementen weitestgehend übereinstimmende Form auf, so dass die Oberfläche über die Erstreckung aller optischen Elemente hinweg einheitlich ausgeformt werden kann und dadurch eine hochwertige Wirkung erzielen kann. Gleichzeitig weisen die zweiten optischen Elemente hierbei einen gegenüber den ersten optischen Elementen unterschiedlichen Reflexionsbereich auf, so dass an der Oberfläche in den Bereichen der ersten optischen Elemente in Abhängigkeit des jeweiligen Lichteinfalls ein anderer optischer Effekt erzielt werden kann als in Bereichen der zweiten optischen Elemente. Dabei ist es günstig, wenn die sechs zweiten Facettenflächen zwischen den zweiten Hauptfacetten drei zweite Nebenfacetten aufweisen, die mit der Normalenebene jeweils einen Winkel zwischen 53,7° und 55,7° einschließen. Hierdurch kann auch die retroreflektierende Wirkung der zweiten optischen Elemente verstärkt werden.In this case, the six second facet surfaces also preferably have three second main facets which are at a circumferential angle of 120 ° to one another and which enclose an angle between 48 ° and 52 ° with the normal plane. As a result, the second optical elements on the surface have a shape that largely coincides with the first optical elements, so that the surface can be formed uniformly over the extension of all the optical elements, thereby achieving a high-quality effect. At the same time, the second optical elements have a different reflection range than the first optical elements, so that a different optical effect can be achieved on the surface in the regions of the first optical elements as a function of the respective light incidence than in regions of the second optical elements. In this case, it is favorable if the six second facet surfaces between the second main facets have three second secondary facets, which in each case enclose an angle between 53.7 ° and 55.7 ° with the normal plane. In this way, the retroreflective effect of the second optical elements can be enhanced.
Ferner wird die oben genannte Aufgabe mit einem Werkzeug zur Herstellung eines Schmuckstückes in einer der oben genannten Ausführungsformen gelöst, wobei das Werkzeug eine Formspitze aufweist, deren Oberflächengeometrie komplementär zur Anordnung der Reflexionsflächen des herzustellenden optischen Elementes geformt ist und die als Einpress- oder Einschlagspitze zur Kaltverformung der Oberfläche ausgebildet ist. Mithilfe eines derartigen Werkzeuges können die optischen Elemente somit einfach und genau in die Oberfläche eines zu bearbeitenden Schmuckstückes eingelassen werden.Furthermore, the above object is achieved with a tool for producing a piece of jewelry in one of the above-mentioned embodiments, wherein the tool has a forming tip whose surface geometry is formed complementary to the arrangement of the reflecting surfaces of the optical element to be produced and as a press-in or impact point for cold working the surface is formed. With the help of such a tool, the optical elements can thus be easily and accurately embedded in the surface of a piece of jewelry to be processed.
Dabei ist es günstig, wenn die Formspitze an einem Schaft gehalten ist, der ein von der Formspitze abgewandtes Kraftübertragungsende aufweist. Auf diese Weise kann das Werkzeug in der Weise eines Punziereisens oder eines Maschinenwerkzeuges verwendet werden, das am Kraftübertragungsende mittels eines Hammers oder mittels der Werkzeugaufnahme einer Maschine mit einer Kraft beaufschlagt wird, um die durch die Formspitze vorgegebene Anordnung der Reflexionsflächen in die Oberfläche des Schmuckstückes durch Schlagen oder Einpressen beziehungsweise Punzieren einzuarbeiten. Vorzugsweise ist die Formspitze hierbei aus Wolframcarbid oder Diamant hergestellt, um eine Härte zu gewährleisten, die eine mehrfache Einarbeitung der Reflexionsflächenanordnung des jeweils herzustellenden optischen Elementes in Edelmetallmaterial oder in Schmucksteine mit Hilfe derselben Formspitze ermöglicht.It is expedient if the mold tip is held on a shaft which has a force transmission end facing away from the mold tip. In this way, the tool can be used in the manner of a punching iron or a machine tool, which is acted upon at the power transmission end by a hammer or by the tool holder of a machine with a force to the predetermined by the shaping tip arrangement of the reflection surfaces in the surface of the piece of jewelry Beat or press in or to incorporate Punzieren. Preferably, the mold tip is made here of tungsten carbide or diamond to ensure a hardness that allows multiple incorporation of the reflective surface array of each manufactured optical element in precious metal material or in gemstones using the same shape tip.
Ferner wird die oben genannten Aufgabe durch ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schmuckstückes in einer der oben genannten Ausführungsformen geschützt, bei dem in einem ersten Schritt die einsehbare Oberfläche hergestellt wird, wie insbesondere durch Formgießen, Drehen, Schleifen und/oder eine sonstige Oberflächenbearbeitung. In einem zweiten Schritt werden dann durch eine kaltverformende Bearbeitung der Oberfläche mehrere erste optische Elemente mit jeweils einer retroreflektierenden Anordnung von Reflexionsflächen in die Oberfläche eingearbeitet. Hierdurch ist es auch noch nachträglich möglich, an der Oberfläche eines Schmuckstückes die gewünschten Lichteffekte durch Einarbeitung der optischen Elemente zu erzeugen. Dabei ist es günstig, wenn im zweiten oder einem nachfolgenden Schritt benachbart zu den ersten optischen Elementen zusätzlich die zweiten optischen Elemente durch eine kaltverformende Bearbeitung der Oberfläche eingearbeitet werden. Hierdurch können auch die durch die zweiten optischen Elemente erzeugbaren Effekte nachträglich an einem Schmuckstück vorgesehen werden.Furthermore, the above-mentioned object is protected by a method for producing a piece of jewelry in one of the abovementioned embodiments, in which the visible surface is produced in a first step, in particular by molding, turning, grinding and / or other surface treatment. In a second step, a plurality of first optical elements, each with a retroreflecting arrangement of reflection surfaces, are then incorporated into the surface by cold-working machining of the surface. This also makes it possible subsequently to produce the desired light effects by incorporation of the optical elements on the surface of a piece of jewelry. It is advantageous if, in the second or a subsequent step adjacent to the first optical elements, the second optical elements are additionally incorporated by cold-working machining of the surface. As a result, the effects that can be generated by the second optical elements can also be subsequently provided on a piece of jewelry.
Zudem ist es günstig, wenn die Einarbeitung der ersten optischen Elemente und/oder der zweiten optischen Elemente mittels wenigstens eines computergesteuerten Kaltverformungswerkzeuges erfolgt, wodurch eine besonders präzise Einarbeitung der einzelnen optischen Elemente möglich ist.Moreover, it is favorable if the incorporation of the first optical elements and / or the second optical elements takes place by means of at least one computer-controlled cold-forming tool, whereby a particularly precise incorporation of the individual optical elements is possible.
Vorteilhafterweise werden die optischen Elemente dabei rasterförmig an der Oberfläche angeordnet, um eine gleichmäßige Oberflächenstruktur zu erzeugen. Dabei ist es günstig, wenn über die Flächenerstreckung eines innerhalb der Rasterung zu erzeugenden grafischen Elementes hinweg lediglich die ersten optischen Elemente oder lediglich die zweiten optischen Elemente eingearbeitet werden, um dadurch während der Retroreflexion der einen optischen Elemente einen klaren Kontrast gegenüber den anderen optischen Elementen zu erzeugen und dadurch die Wahrnehmbarkeit des grafischen Elementes sicherzustellen.Advantageously, the optical elements are arranged in the form of a grid on the surface in order to produce a uniform surface structure. In this case, it is favorable if only the first optical elements or only the second optical elements are incorporated over the areal extent of a graphic element to be generated within the raster, thereby providing a clear contrast during the retroreflection of the one optical element against the other optical elements and thereby ensure the perceptibility of the graphic element.
In den Figuren ist eine beispielhafte Ausführungsform der Erfindung dargestellt. Es zeigen:
Figur 1- eine perspektivische Ansicht einer Oberfläche eines erfindungsgemäßen Schmuckstückes,
Figur 2- eine vergrößerte perspektivische Ansicht eines ersten optischen Elementes,
- Figur 3
- eine vergrößerte perspektivische Ansicht eines zweiten optischen Elementes,
Figur 4- eine Ansicht eines ersten Werkzeuges zur Herstellung des ersten optischen Elementes und
- Figur 5
- eine Ansicht eines Werkzeuges zur Herstellung des zweiten optischen Elementes.
- FIG. 1
- a perspective view of a surface of a piece of jewelry according to the invention,
- FIG. 2
- an enlarged perspective view of a first optical element,
- FIG. 3
- an enlarged perspective view of a second optical element,
- FIG. 4
- a view of a first tool for producing the first optical element and
- FIG. 5
- a view of a tool for producing the second optical element.
In jedem Fall ist, wie aus
Wie aus den
Die ersten optischen Elemente 6 gemäß dem in
Die ersten Hauptfacetten 18 A schließen dabei mit einer zur Hauptachse A senkrecht aufgespannten Normalenebene E jeweils einen Winkel WH1 zwischen 53,7 und 55,7° ein. Gleichzeitig schließen die ersten Nebenfacetten 18 B mit der Normalenebene E einen Winkel WN1 zwischen 5° und 15° ein.The first
Durch diese Geometrie der ersten Reflexionsflächenanordnung 12 weisen die ersten optischen Elemente 6 eine retroreflektive Funktion auf, bei der ein Licht L, dessen Lichteinfallwinkel LW gegenüber der Oberfläche 4 in einem vorgegebenen Reflexionsbereich liegt, direkt zur Lichtquelle zurück reflektiert wird. Auf diese Weise können mittels der ersten optischen Elemente 6 besondere Lichteffekte, wie insbesondere ein intensives Funkeln, generiert werden.As a result of this geometry of the first
Die zweite Reflexionsflächenanordnung 20 der zweiten optischen Elemente 8 gemäß dem in
Die zweiten Hauptfacetten 26 A schließen dabei mit der zur Hauptachse A senkrecht aufgespannten Normalenebene E jeweils einen Winkel WH2 zwischen 48 und 52° ein. Gleichzeitig schließen die zweiten Nebenfacetten 26 B mit der Normalenebene E einen Winkel WN2 zwischen 53,7° und 55,7° ein.The second
Durch diese Geometrie der zweiten Reflexionsflächenanordnung 20 weisen die zweiten optischen Elemente 8 eine sich von den ersten optischen Elementen 6 unterscheidende Reflexionseigenschaft auf. Hierbei wird die retroreflektive Wirkung in einem unterschiedlichen Reflexionsbereich erzeugt, so dass in Abhängigkeit des Lichteinfallwinkels LW an der Oberfläche 4 entweder die ersten optischen Elemente 6 oder die zweiten optischen Elemente einen retroreflektierenden Effekt erzeugen können. Alternativ hierzu ist es auch möglich, die zweiten optischen Elemente 8 derart auszuführen, dass sie keinerlei retroreflektierende Eigenschaft aufweisen.As a result of this geometry of the second
In jedem Fall können somit in Abhängigkeit von einer jeweiligen Ausrichtung des Schmuckstücks 2 gegenüber einer Lichtquelle in bestimmten Bereichen der Oberfläche 4 besondere Lichteffekte durch Retroreflexion erzeugt werden oder nicht. Auf diese Weise ist es möglich, innerhalb der Rasterung 10 der optischen Elemente 6, 8 ein grafisches Objekt G in die Oberfläche 4 einzuarbeiten, das jedoch nur unter einem bestimmten Lichteinfallswinkel LW in Erscheinung tritt, nämlich dann, wenn nur an den einen optischen Elementen 6; 8 nicht aber an den anderen optischen Elementen 8; 6 eine Retroreflexion erzeugt wird.In any case, depending on a respective orientation of the
Das grafische Objekt G, das in
Zur Herstellung des Schmuckstückes 2 werden nach der üblichen Herstellung der Oberfläche 4, wie durch Formgießen, Drehen, Schleifen und/oder einer sonstigen bekannten Oberflächenbearbeitung, in einem weiteren Verfahrensschritt die ersten optischen Elemente 6 beziehungsweise deren Reflexionsflächenanordnung 12 durch kaltverformende Bearbeitung eingearbeitet.For the production of the piece of
Hierzu wird beispielsweise ein Werkzeug 30 gemäß
Nach oder während der Herstellung der ersten optischen Elemente 6 erfolgt zudem die Einarbeitung mit einem zweiten Werkzeug 44, gemäß
Claims (15)
mit einer einsehbaren Oberfläche (4), wobei an der Oberfläche (4) eine Vielzahl von ersten optischen Elementen (6) zur Erzeugung von Lichteffekten vorgesehen ist,
dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die ersten optischen Elemente (6) jeweils eine Anordnung von in die Oberfläche (4) des Edelmetall- oder Schmucksteinmaterials eingelassenen Reflexionsflächen (12) aufweisen, mittels der eine Retroreflexion erzeugbar ist,
und neben den retroreflektierenden ersten optischen Elementen (6) zusätzlich optisch unterschiedlich wirkende zweite optische Elemente (8) in die Oberfläche (4) des Edelmetall- oder Schmucksteinmaterials eingelassen sind.Piece of jewelery (2) made of a precious metal or gemstone material
with a visible surface (4), wherein on the surface (4) a plurality of first optical elements (6) is provided for generating light effects,
characterized in that the first optical elements (6) each have an arrangement of recessed surfaces (12) embedded in the surface (4) of the precious metal or gemstone material, by means of which retroreflection can be generated,
and in addition to the retroreflective first optical elements (6) additionally optically differently acting second optical elements (8) in the surface (4) of the precious metal or gemstone material are embedded.
in einem nachfolgenden zweiten Schritt durch kaltverformende Bearbeitung die ersten optischen Elemente (6) mit jeweils einer retroreflektierenden Anordnung von Reflexionsflächen (12) in die Oberfläche (4) eingelassen werden
und im zweiten oder einem nachfolgenden Schritt benachbart zu den ersten optischen Elementen (6) zusätzlich die zweiten optischen Elemente (8) durch eine kaltverformende Bearbeitung in die Oberfläche (2) eingelassen werden.A method for producing a piece of jewelry (2) according to one of claims 1 to 10, wherein in a first step the visible surface (4) is produced, characterized in that
In a subsequent second step, the first optical elements (6), each having a retroreflecting arrangement of reflecting surfaces (12), are introduced into the surface (4) by cold-working machining
and in the second or a subsequent step adjacent to the first optical elements (6) additionally the second optical elements (8) be embedded in the surface (2) by cold working.
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DE202017103704.5U DE202017103704U1 (en) | 2017-06-22 | 2017-06-22 | Jewel and tool for making the jewel |
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EP3418068A1 true EP3418068A1 (en) | 2018-12-26 |
EP3418068B1 EP3418068B1 (en) | 2020-02-19 |
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EP18172563.1A Active EP3418068B1 (en) | 2017-06-22 | 2018-05-16 | Piece of jewellery and tool and method for making the piece of jewellery |
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DE (1) | DE202017103704U1 (en) |
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DE102018120813B4 (en) * | 2018-08-27 | 2020-03-05 | Meissner Ag Modell- Und Werkzeugfabrik | Computer-aided method for punching a surface of a workpiece and a corresponding device |
Citations (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP0648445A1 (en) * | 1993-10-13 | 1995-04-19 | Yamato Kako Kabushiki Kaisha | Ornament |
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Patent Citations (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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EP0648445A1 (en) * | 1993-10-13 | 1995-04-19 | Yamato Kako Kabushiki Kaisha | Ornament |
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