EP3364817B1

EP3364817B1 - Applicator for applying a cosmetic product

Info

Publication number: EP3364817B1
Application number: EP16779143.3A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Marcel Sanchez; Alain Berhault; Eric Caulier
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2015-10-19
Filing date: 2016-10-12
Publication date: 2020-06-10
Anticipated expiration: 2036-10-12
Also published as: WO2017067834A1; ES2806690T3; FR3042391B1; EP3364817A1; FR3042391A1

Description

The present invention relates to brushes for applying a cosmetic product to the eyelashes or eyebrows, notably a makeup or care product, for example mascara, and also to corresponding packaging and application devices.
The expression "cosmetic products" is understood to mean any product as defined in Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and Council of 30 November 2009 relating to cosmetic products.
A very large number of applicators, in which the brush comprises a core formed by two arms of a metal wire that are twisted together and grip bristles, are known.
Such a brush is described for example in the documents FR3013569 and EP2229839 .
Also known are brushes made by moulding at least one thermoplastic elastomer material. The document US20150020332 describes the manufacture of such a brush.
The length of the brush is naturally tailored to the length of the area to be made up. As standard, brushes having lengths of 26, 32 or 42 mm are thus known.
The brush, or more generally the applicator member, is connected to a gripping member by way of a stem made of a rigid thermoplastic material.
The applicator is generally intended to be used with a reservoir which contains the cosmetic product to be applied and a free edge of which delimits an opening. The applicator member is introduced through the opening into the reservoir, where it is loaded with cosmetic product before being withdrawn from said reservoir in order to carry out the application.
In order to limit the problems of drying out and contamination of the cosmetic product in the reservoir, the opening has to be relatively small. The opening conventionally has a diameter of 8, 12 or 15 mm.
Furthermore, in order to remove excess cosmetic product and adjust the load on the applicator member, the opening of the reservoir is equipped with a wiping member (see for example the documents FR2504788 , EP1561394 and EP0829211 ). The presence of this wiping member has the effect of further reducing the size of the opening. Conventionally, the diameter of the opening having the wiping member is between 2 and 6 mm.
Numerous applicators have a substantially rectilinear stem that extends along a longitudinal axis coincident with a longitudinal axis of the gripping member. Such an applicator can be withdrawn easily from the reservoir, only the wiper weakly opposing the withdrawal for the purpose of wiping.
For reasons of ergonomics and/or in order to obtain new make-up effects, cosmetic applicators having a non-rectilinear stem are increasingly becoming known. Such stems have one or more curves and can extend in two or three directions.
The application FR3001368 thus describes a stem that extends in the three spatial dimensions.
Such a stem made of rigid plastics material can prove extremely difficult to withdraw from the reservoir.
This is because, in the case of stems having significant curves, and notably an "overall" width greater than the dimensions of the opening of the reservoir, the applicator cannot be withdrawn directly and one or more changes in orientation during withdrawal may be necessary.
What is worse, in the case of very highly curved stems, the stem can rub or butt against the walls of the reservoir in the region of the opening. As a result, the force required to withdraw the stem becomes very large and the ease of use of the applicator is severely affected thereby.
Furthermore, this can cause the presence of a withdrawal hard point which, once passed, abruptly frees the applicator. There is thus a risk of product being thrown towards the user.
One obvious solution would be to increase the size of the opening of said reservoir, but this is not desirable, notably for the reasons mentioned above.
Another reason is that, as indicated above, the wipers and openings of reservoirs have standard dimensions. The development of specific wiper and reservoir sizes would therefore be particularly costly.
The application FR3001368 envisages the possibility of making such a stem of elastomer material, therefore giving it a degree of flexibility and greater elasticity.
Furthermore, in order to make withdrawal easier, the document FR3001368 recommends retaining at least one rectilinear portion. Such a constraint limits the development of ergonomic stems that have diverse curves.
It should also be noted that the production of a, straight or curved, stem from plastics material requires the use of a mould. Thus, for each different stem, a specific mould has to be produced, and this can prove particularly expensive.
The present invention aims to achieve at least some of these objectives and to this end proposes an applicator for applying a cosmetic product, in particular to keratin fibres, and notably for applying mascara to eyelashes, said applicator comprising an applicator member connected to a gripping member, said applicator member comprising a flexible core that is able to be deformed elastically, said core bearing a set of protruding application elements, characterized in that the core has a length greater than 45 mm, preferably greater than 60 mm, and follows an open path along at least a substantial portion of its length starting from the gripping member, without turning back towards said gripping member, the core therefore defining a distal application portion and a proximal portion.
The terms "distal" and "proximal" are used with respect to the gripping member.
The application elements can be conventionally bristles, but may also be elements of the plastics comb type, as described for example in the application EP2555652 or US8636013 .
The length is measured along a rectilinear longitudinal axis of the portion in question.
Thus, in the case of a curved, notably distal or proximal, core portion, the longitudinal axis is understood as being the overall direction of extension of said portion and more specifically the direction between two end points of said portion.
In the case of the core as a whole, the longitudinal axis is understood as being the axis between its free distal end and its point of attachment to a gripping member or to a plastics stem. This length does not include the length necessary for fitting the core in the stem.
The expression "open path without turning back towards the gripping member" is understood as meaning a path which always advances, along the core of the brush, with an increasing distance from a point of attachment of the core to the gripping member towards the distal free end of the core.
The expression "substantial portion of its length" is understood as meaning at least 50% of the length, preferably at least 60%, or even at least 80%.
Preferably, the core has an open path without turning back towards the gripping member along its entire length. Alternatively, the core may turn back towards the gripping member in the region of the distal application portion. Preferably, such a turn back is less than 25 mm, or even less than 15 mm.
Thus, by providing a core that extends along a length much greater than the standard length of a conventional mascara brush, for example 3 to 4 times greater, a part of this length can be used to at least partially replace the plastics stem and provide the desired shape and flexibility.
According to a first embodiment, the core is a twisted core having two arms that are twisted together, the application elements being retained in the core between said arms.
According to a second embodiment, the core is a core moulded from at least one thermoplastic elastomer material.
Since a twisted core or a core moulded from an elastomer material is relatively elastically flexible by nature, the withdrawal of the applicator is made much easier thereby, without bringing about permanent deformation of said applicator, however. Furthermore, the section of the core is smaller than a normal stem section, this further increasing the ease of withdrawal.
The flexibility of the core is thus beneficial, without it being necessary to design a specific stem.
It will also be noted that a twisted core is also permanently deformable, and the user can slightly modify the configuration of the brush, if need be, notably depending on the regions to be negotiated, for example the nose, the cheekbones, etc.
The maximum length of the applicator is generally defined as per the container used. In particular, mascara bottles have a length that can range up to around ten centimetres. The length of the core may then be up to 90-95 mm.
This makes it easier to shape the applicator, since it is no longer necessary to provide a mould dedicated to a specific stem shape.
Preferably, the distal application portion has a length extending along at least 25 mm, notably 26 mm, or along at least 30 mm, notably 32 mm, and at most 45 mm, the proximal stem portion extending along the rest of the length of the core.
According to a first embodiment, the core is rectilinear in the distal application portion.
According to a second embodiment, the core is at least partially curved in the distal application portion. The core may notably have one or more curves in accordance with the applicator members described in the prior art.
Preferably, the distal application portion comprises application elements with a different nature from that of the application elements in the proximal stem portion. Of course, the application elements can also have the same nature.
The nature of the application elements is understood as being their physicochemical characteristics apart from their length/height. It may notably be the material of which they are made, their thickness, section, hardness, flexibility, etc. With the other characteristics otherwise being the same, the length/height of the application elements does not change the nature thereof within the meaning of the present application.
According to a first variant embodiment, the application elements of the distal application portion define an envelope surface that has a substantially circular cross section over at least a part of said distal application portion, preferably with a substantially constant diameter along said distal application portion.
Thus, the envelope of the distal application portion of the brush can conventionally have a substantially cylindrical shape, or, at the distal end, a frustoconical shape or a more elaborate shape comprising circular sections with changing diameters (balls, etc.). In the case in which the application elements are bristles, these changing sections may be obtained notably by cutting and/or machining the bristles.
In an alternative or complementary manner, the application elements of the distal application portion define an envelope surface that has a substantially non-circular cross section over at least a part of said distal application portion. In the case in which the application elements are bristles, these non-circular sections may be obtained notably by cutting and/or machining the bristles.
The envelope may notably have an oval section that is asymmetric with respect to the core, but also cutouts, notches, etc.
The scope of the invention is defined by the appended claims.
According to a first embodiment, the applicator member is connected directly to the gripping member. Thus, the applicator no longer comprises a plastics stem.
According to a second embodiment, the applicator member is connected to the gripping member by way of a stem, made notably of plastics material and preferably thermoplastic material, said stem preferably being rectilinear.
Preferably, the stem does not protrude from the gripping member. Thus, there is no visible joint between the gripping member and the applicator member.
Alternatively, the stem protrudes from the gripping member, preferably by a length less than 20 mm. Preferably, the protruding length is between 5 and 10% of the length of the core. Thus, the applicator is subjected to less deformation of the element during wiping, the presence of a smaller portion of plastics stem ensuring optimal attachment to the gripping member and good sealing on closure.
According to another variant embodiment, the proximal stem portion does not have any application elements. The absence of application elements in the proximal stem part allows the user to clearly distinguish it from the distal application portion.
Alternatively, the proximal stem portion has application elements along at least a part of its length, preferably more or less along its entire length, the length of said application elements preferably being less than the maximum length of the application elements of the distal application portion. Advantageously, the length of at least some of the application elements of the proximal stem portion is such that the cross section of the envelope is substantially the same as the section of the plastics stem, if appropriate, or of a standard plastics stem.
The presence of application elements on the proximal stem part makes it possible, on passing through the wiping device with which the reservoir is equipped, to wipe and clean said proximal stem portion at least partially.
According to one variant embodiment, the application elements of the proximal stem portion define an envelope that has a substantially circular cross section over at least a part of said proximal stem portion, preferably with a substantially constant diameter along said proximal stem portion.
Thus, the proximal stem portion may have a substantially cylindrical envelope of application elements. Alternatively, it may have changing sections that form patterns, such as substantially spherical, cylindrical, conical, etc. zones.
In an alternative or complementary manner, the application elements of the proximal stem portion define an envelope surface that has a substantially non-circular cross section over at least a part of said proximal stem portion.
Thus, the proximal stem portion may notably have notches or cutouts.
The proximal stem portion may thus have diverse decorative forms.
According to a first embodiment, the core is rectilinear in the proximal stem portion. Such an embodiment makes it possible notably to adjust the overall length of the applicator easily without having to modify the gripping member or to produce a stem with specific dimensions.
According to a second embodiment, the core is at least partially curved in the proximal stem portion.
Advantageously, the core extends in the three spatial dimensions in the proximal stem portion. The proximal stem portion may alternatively also be curved in a plane. In particular, the proximal stem portion may have one or more curves, with the same orientation or opposite orientations.
Preferably, the core is configured, in the proximal stem portion, such that the angle between a longitudinal axis of the gripping member and a longitudinal axis of the distal application portion is between 25° and 90°.
Advantageously, the core has at least two bends in the proximal stem portion.
Preferably, the core has, in the proximal stem portion, a first rectilinear portion that is connected to the gripping member or the stem, as appropriate.
The present invention also relates to an assembly for packaging and applying a cosmetic product, comprising, for the one part, an applicator according to the invention and, for the other part, a container which is intended to contain said cosmetic product and a free edge of which delimits an opening, said opening preferably being equipped with a wiping device.
Preferably, the gripping member of the applicator also forms a cap that is able to close the reservoir in a removable manner, the applicator member being situated inside the reservoir when the cap is in the closing position.
Advantageously, the projected section of the core onto a plane of the opening is greater than the section of said opening.
The present invention will be understood better from reading the following detailed description with regard to the appended drawing, in which:

Figure 1 is a schematic depiction, in longitudinal cross section, of a packaging and application assembly according to the invention.
Figures 2 and 3 are schematic depictions of an applicator member for an applicator according to the invention, respectively before and after being attached to a gripping member and shaped.
Figures 4A to 4E are schematic depictions of variant embodiments of applicators according to the invention.
Figure 5 is a schematic depiction of an applicator member according to the invention that has been obtained by moulding a thermoplastic elastomer material.

Although illustrated by application elements of the bristle type, it is possible, as mentioned above, to use other types of application elements held between the twisted arms of the core.
As shown in Figure 1, a packaging and application assembly 1 according to the invention comprises, for the one part, an applicator 10 according to the invention and, for the other part, a container 100 that is intended to contain a cosmetic product P.
The container has a free upper edge forming a neck 101 that delimits an opening. A wiping device 103 is disposed inside the neck 101.
The applicator 10 comprises an applicator member 11 connected to a gripping member 12 by way of a plastics stem 15.
The gripping member 12 forms a cap that is able to close the container 100 in a removable manner, the applicator member 11 being situated inside the reservoir when the cap is in the closing position.
To this end, the gripping member 12 has an internal thread that is able to cooperate with an external thread on the neck 101.
The applicator member 11 comprises a metal core 13 formed by helically winding two arms of a metal wire. According to a preferred embodiment, the two arms are obtained by bending the metal wire in a U shape before said arms are twisted.
Preferably, the core 13 may be produced from a metal alloy, in particular from an alloy of nickel, titanium, or from steel.
Bristles 14 are implanted radially between the arms of the metal wire. When the arms of the wire are twisted, the bristles 14 are clamped and held between the helical turns of the core 13. The applicator member 11 thus forms a brush for applying the cosmetic product P.
The free ends of the bristles 14 define an envelope surface S of the applicator member 11.
The bristles 14 may be made of natural or synthetic fibres, notably of nylon. The bristles 14 may be of different natures and/or types. They may for example have different diameters, different lengths, radially and/or longitudinally, different sections and/or different shapes.
In accordance with the present application, the twisted core 13 has a length greater than 45 mm, preferably greater than 60 mm.
The core 13 also follows an open path along its entire length, without turning back towards the gripping member 12.
The twisted core 13 thus defines a distal application portion 13a and a proximal stem portion 13b.
Preferably, the distal application portion 13a has a length extending along at least 25 mm, notably 26 mm, or along at least 30 mm, notably 32 mm, and at most 45 mm, the proximal stem portion 13b extending along the rest of the length of the core.
As shown in Figure 1, the core is rectilinear in the distal application portion 13a.
Alternatively, the core may be at least partially curved in the distal application portion. The core may notably have one or more curves in accordance with the applicator members described in the prior art.
According to one particular embodiment, the distal application portion 13a comprises bristles with a different nature from that of the bristles of the proximal stem portion. Of course, the bristles can also have the same nature.
As shown in Figure 1, the core is curved in the proximal stem portion 13b. Preferably, the core 13 extends in the three spatial dimensions in the proximal stem portion 13b. The proximal stem portion 13b may also be curved in a plane. In particular, the proximal stem portion may have one or more curves, with the same orientation or opposite orientations.
In particular, the core 13 has, in the proximal stem portion 13b, a first rectilinear portion that is intended to be attached to the stem 15.
Moreover, the core 13 is configured, in the proximal stem portion 13b, such that the angle between a longitudinal axis of the gripping member 12 and a longitudinal axis of the distal application portion 13a is between 25° and 90°.
As indicated above, the core 13 of the applicator member 11 is connected to the gripping member 12 by way of a plastics stem 15.
The plastics stem 15 is rectilinear. The plastics stem 15 is also reduced to a minimum distance.
In particular, the plastics stem 15 extends inside a space in the gripping member 12 that is intended to receive the neck 101. The length of the plastics stem 15 is such that said plastics stem 15 protrudes from the gripping member 12 over a distance which is not greater than 3 cm. Preferably, the plastics stem 15 does not protrude from the gripping member.
Alternatively, and as shown in Figure 3, the applicator 10 does not have a stem 15 and the core 13 of the applicator member 11 is connected directly to the gripping member 12.
As shown in Figures 2 and 3, the applicator member 11 is first of all produced from a rectilinear core 13 (formation of an applicator member blank) before said core 13 is shaped so as to impart curves and desired deformations thereon.
The rectilinear core 13 makes it possible notably to shape and work the bristles 14 both in the distal application portion 13a and in the proximal stem portion 13b.
In this case, the bristles 14 present in the proximal stem portion 13b have been shortened so as to have a length less than the maximum length of the bristles 14 in the distal application portion 13a.
According to one embodiment that is not shown, it is possible for the proximal stem portion 13b not to have bristles 14.
The bristles 14 of the distal application portion 13a define a generally cylindrical envelope surface. The distal end of said distal application portion 13a is frustoconical.
Other shapes of envelopes are of course conceivable.
The bristles 14 of the proximal stem portion 13b likewise define a generally cylindrical envelope.
Alternatively, as shown in Figures 4A to 4E, the bristles 14 of the proximal stem surface 13b can have an envelope that forms various and diverse patterns.
The various envelope geometries and patterns can be realized with a cutting tool, not shown. The cutting tool is preferably in the form of a cylinder, notably a cylinder of revolution. The cutting tool comprises a cutting surface that comes into contact with the bristles and cuts the bristles. Such a cutting tool can notably produce one or more notches, for example, both in the distal application portion 13a and in the proximal stem portion 13b.
The bristles 14 are cut notably by the movement of the cutting tool in one or more directions.
Figure 4A shows a blank of an applicator member 11 comprising a distal application portion 13a having a substantially cylindrical envelope. The proximal stem portion 13b has a substantially cylindrical envelope portion having a diameter substantially the same as that of the stem 15 so as to be inscribed in continuation of said stem. At the junction with the distal application portion 13a, the proximal stem portion 13b has a frustoconical envelope portion.
Figure 4B shows a blank of an applicator member 11 which differs from the applicator member in Figure 4A mainly in that the bristles of the proximal stem portion 13b define an envelope exhibiting a succession of drops with flat faces, the drops being oriented with their tips towards the gripping member 12.
Figure 4C differs from Figure 4B in that the drops have a substantially spherical base.
Figure 4D shows a blank of an applicator member 11 which differs from the applicator member in Figure 4A mainly in that the bristles of the proximal stem portion 13b define an envelope exhibiting a succession of spheres. The diameter of the spheres decreases towards the gripping member 12.
Figure 4E shows a blank of an applicator member 11 which differs from the applicator member in Figure 4A mainly in that some of the bristles of the proximal stem portion 13b define an envelope in the form of an elongated olive.
Of course, any combination of shapes is conceivable.
Figure 5 shows an applicator member 20 obtained by moulding at least one thermoplastic elastomer material. The applicator member 20 comprises a core 21 bearing a set of application elements 22. The core 21 has a substantially circular section. The core 21 also has a curved mid-portion.
The application elements 22 are distributed along the core 21 and around its periphery. The application elements 22 are disposed in longitudinal rows.
The applicator member 20 comprises notably application elements 22 in the form of (substantially conical) spikes and application elements 22 in the form of teeth (flattened section).
In the transverse dimension of the core of the applicator member 20, said applicator member 20 may be too flexible and it may be necessary to stiffen the core 21. Obviously, the core 21 may be stiffened by using a less flexible plastics material. A risk is that the application elements 22 then become too stiff, this being likely to have an effect on comfort on application.
To this end, according to one particular embodiment, the applicator member 20 may comprise a core 21 comprising a kernel made from a first material (notably a thermoplastic or thermoplastic elastomer material, or a metal material) having the desired stiffness, said kernel being overmoulded with or joined to a less hard thermoplastic elastomer material for producing at least the application elements 22.

Claims

Applicator (10) for applying a cosmetic product (P), in particular to keratin fibres, and notably for applying mascara to eyelashes, said applicator comprising an applicator member (11, 20) connected to a gripping member (12), said applicator member comprising a flexible core (13, 21) that is able to be deformed elastically, said core bearing a set of application elements (14, 22), characterized in that the core has a length greater than 45 mm, preferably greater than 60 mm, and follows an open path along at least a substantial portion of its length starting from the gripping member, without turning back towards said gripping member, the core therefore defining a distal application portion (13a) and a proximal portion (13b).
Applicator (10) according to Claim 1, characterized in that the core (13) is a twisted core having two arms that are twisted together, the application elements (14) being retained in the core between said arms.
Applicator (10) according to Claim 1, characterized in that the core (21) is a core moulded from at least one thermoplastic elastomer material.
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the distal application portion (13a) has a length extending along at least 25 mm, notably 26 mm or 32 mm, and at most 45 mm, the proximal portion (13b) extending along the rest of the length of the core.
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the core (13, 21) is rectilinear in the distal application portion (13a).
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the core (13, 21) is at least partially curved in the distal application portion (13a).
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the distal application portion (13a) comprises, at least in part, application elements (14, 22) with a different nature from that of at least some of the application elements (14, 22) in the proximal portion (13b).
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the application elements (14, 22) of the distal application portion (13a) define an envelope surface that has a substantially circular cross section over at least a part of said distal application portion, preferably with a substantially constant diameter along said distal application portion.
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the application elements (14, 22) of the distal application portion (13a) define an envelope surface that has a substantially non-circular cross section over at least a part of said distal application portion.
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the applicator member (11, 20) is is connected directly to the gripping member (12).
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the applicator member (11, 20) is connected to the gripping member by way of a stem (15), made notably of plastics material and preferably rigid thermoplastic material, said stem preferably being rectilinear.
Applicator (10) according to Claim 11, characterized in that the stem (15) does not protrude from the gripping member (12).
Applicator (10) according to Claim 12, characterized in that the stem (15) protrudes from the gripping member (12), preferably by a length less than 20 mm, preferably up to between 5 and 10% of the length of the core (13, 21).
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the proximal portion (13b) does not have any application elements.
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the proximal portion (13b) has application elements (14) along at least a part of its length, preferably more or less along its entire length, the length of said application elements preferably being less than the maximum length of the application elements of the distal application portion (13a).
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the application elements (14) of the proximal portion (13b) define an envelope that has a substantially circular cross section over at least a part of said proximal portion (13b), preferably with a substantially constant diameter along said proximal portion.
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the application elements (14) of the proximal portion (13b) define an envelope surface that has a substantially non-circular cross section over at least a part of said proximal stem portion.
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the core (13, 21) is rectilinear in the proximal stem portion (13b).
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 18, characterized in that the core (13, 21) is at least partially curved in the proximal portion (13b).
Applicator (10) according to Claim 19, characterized in that the core (13, 21) extends in the three spatial dimensions in the proximal stem portion (13b).
Applicator (10) according to either one of Claims 19 and 20, wherein the core (13, 21) is configured, in the proximal portion (13b), such that the angle between a longitudinal axis of the gripping member (12) and a longitudinal axis of the distal application portion (13a) is between 25° and 90°.
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 19 to 21, wherein the core (13, 21) has at least two bends in the proximal portion (13b).
Applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 19 to 22, wherein the core (13, 21) has, in the proximal portion (13b), a first rectilinear portion that is connected to the gripping member (12) or the stem (15), as appropriate.
Assembly (1) for packaging and applying a cosmetic product (P), comprising, for the one part, an applicator (10) according to any one of Claims 1 to 23 and, for the other part, a container (100) which is intended to contain said cosmetic product and a free edge of which delimits an opening, said opening preferably being equipped with a wiping device (103).
Packaging and application assembly (1) according to Claim 24, characterized in that the applicator (10) comprises a gripping member (12) that also forms a cap that is able to close the container (100) in a removable manner, an applicator member (11, 20) being situated inside the reservoir when the cap is in the closing position.