EP3358054A1

EP3358054A1 - Core spun yarn comprising core yarn composed of variable drafted filament yarn and/or elastane yarn and fabric obtained with this core spun yarn

Info

Publication number: EP3358054A1
Application number: EP17171279.7A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Ahmet Gökhan AYDIN; Hakan Konukoglu
Original assignee: Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri Sanayi ve Ticaret AS
Current assignee: Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri Sanayi ve Ticaret AS
Priority date: 2017-02-07
Filing date: 2017-05-16
Publication date: 2018-08-08
Also published as: US20190360130A1; CA3052573A1; WO2019022686A2; JP7191836B2; TR201701808A2; WO2019022686A3; JP2020507021A

Abstract

The invention relates to core yarns in the textile sector and fabrics obtained from these yarns. The invention particularly relates to a core yarn comprising core spun yarn composed of variable drafted filament yarn and/or elastane yarn at the core part, the method of obtaining said core yarn, and the fabric obtained from this yarn.

Description

The Related Art

The invention relates to core yarns in the textile sector and fabrics obtained from these yarns. The invention particularly relates to a core yarn comprising core spun yarn composed of variable drafted filaman yarn and/or elastane yarn at the core part, the method of obtaining said core yarn, and the fabric obtained from this yarn.

The Prior Art

Nowadays, various quality yarns are used in order to obtain different appearances and different characteristics in woven fabrics and knitted fabrics. By changing the yarn characteristics, visually different effects are formed in the structures of woven or knitted fabrics and fabric characteristics are improved.
Standard yarn production consists of the operation steps of blending, carder, comber, traction, roving, and spinning. After the yarn cords formed are refined and twisted in ring yarn machines, usable yarn is obtained. Woven and knitted yarns are obtained with this yarn production method.
In the prior art, core yarns comprising yarn in their core or yarns that do not comprise further yarn in their core are produced. Core yarn is obtained by feeding at least one filament yarn formed of regenerated or synthetic materials with at least one elastane yarn or only at least one elastane yarn into the yarn core during spinning operation of the fibers formed of natural fiber (cotton etc.), regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber, or mixtures thereof.
Yarns made of polyurethane-elastomer having the characteristics of elongation at a certain level when pulled with a force and recovering back to its original form when the force causing elongation is removed are called elastane yarns. Elastane yarn is not used alone. They are used as auxiliary yarn beside the actual yarn of the fabric.
Nowadays, elastane yarn is intensely used in circular knitting machines. Especially, use of elastane yarn is quite common in fine circular knitting machines. These are supreme, rib, interlock, ringelli, electronic jacquard, mini jacquard circular knitting machines. While elastane yarn can be used alone in circular knitting machines together with base yarns, it can also be used in the form of coated yarn.
In the prior art, during standard core yarn production, only feed of elastane and/or filament yarn is made with constant spinning, and a variation cannot be provided during elastane/filament yarn feeding. Elastane and filament yarns are fed to the yarn core as the cylinders driving the reels they are wound around rotate. Since the rotational speed of said cylinders are constant, elastane and filament yarn flow is obtained in constant speed (with a predetermined constant spinning). In core yarn production, elastane and filament yarn feed continues at the same speed with the speed of elastane and filament yarn feeding while starting the production. In this way, the elastane and filament yarn can be fed to the yarn core at a constant tension during yarn production.
The improvements made about the subject in the related technical field are given below.
The patent No. EP2452002B1 , entitled "a core yarn production device and method" is related to this subject. The device according to the invention comprises a first and a second pair of unwinding cylinders driven such that they are arranged consecutively in horizontal direction and at certain intervals from each other. Per each core filament bobbin, a first and a second deflection cylinder are arranged so that they would deflect a core filament twice by unwinding the core filament from its bobbin before it enters the spinning operation of the shaft, and thus reduce the oscillation within the core filament.
The patent No. EP2329067B1 relates to "Control method and mechanism for core yarn production and use". The control mechanism according to the invention comprises a separating mechanism placed at the entrance of the tension mechanism and allowing feeding of the fibers to the tension mechanism and comprising a rear deflection reel for use in stopping the filaments in accordance with their tension level and for the deflection thereof (returning); and a front deflection reel placed on a tension (pulling) mechanism at an inclined angle with regard to the dispatch cylinder for deflecting a filament.
As a result, the above said drawbacks and the inadequacy of the prior art solutions about the subject have necessitated an improvement in the related technical field.

Brief Description of the Invention

The invention relates to a core yarn comprising comprising core spun yarn composed of variable drafted filaman yarn and/or elastane yarn and the fabric obtained with this core yarn, which meets the above said requirements, eliminates all of the drawbacks, and brings some additional advantages.
The primary purpose of the invention is to ensure formation of a different visual effect in woven and knitted fabrics.
The invention aims to developing woven or knitted fabrics obtained from core yarns comprising elastane and/or filament yarn, on the core of which non-constant spinning is applied.
A purpose of the invention is to ensure feeding of elastane and/or filament yarns to the yarn core at a variable speed while obtaining core yarn.
The invention also aims to ensure that the elastane and/or filament yarns fed to the core of the yarn in core yarns with a variable drafting value.
Another purpose of the invention is to ensure obtaining different visual effects (patterns) in woven or knitted fabrics via core yarns.
In order to achieve the above said purposes, the invention is core yarn obtained from fibers formed of natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber, or mixture thereof, and in the core part, it comprises:

at least one elastane yarn comprising regions where different drafting values are applied, and/or
at least one filament yarn comprising regions where different drafting values are applied and formed of regenerated or synthetic materials.

In order to achieve the purposes of the invention, said regions have different lengths and densities along the elastane yarn and/or filament yarn, or said regions have the same lengths and densities along the elastane yarn and/or filament yarn.
In order to achieve the purposes of the invention, the production method of the core yarn comprises the operation steps of:

preparing fiber formed of natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber, or mixtures of these fibers for spinning operation and making into cord,
applying spinning operation to the obtained cord,
feeding the core part of the roving spun during spinning operation with at least one filament yarn formed of regenerated or synthetic materials and/or at least one elastane yarn by applying different drafting values, and
applying twisting and winding around bobbin.

In order to achieve the purposes of the invention, a yarn spinning mechanism is provided, which allows application of said core yarn production method following making into roving, and comprising

a feeding part,
a part comprising rear, middle, and front spinning rollers arranged successively, a rear sleeve positioned on said rear spinning roller, a middle sleeve positioned on said middle spinning roller, and a front sleeve positioned on said front spinning roller, and
twisting and winding parts, and it is characterized in that; it comprises:
an elastane yarn drive cylinder, on which an elastane yarn reel is attached, and which allows the elastane yarn to be fed to the spinning part; a drive motor and inverter driving the elastane yarn drive cylinder and changing the speed of the elastane yarn drive cylinder; a data input screen, on which speed values dependent on the length are entered for the elastane yarn; and/or
a filament yarn drive cylinder allowing the filament yarn to be fed to the spinning part; a drive motor and inverter driving the filament yarn drive cylinder and changing the speed of the filament yarn drive cylinder; a data input screen, on which speed values dependent on the length are entered for the filament yarn.

In order to achieve the purposes of the invention, said spinning mechanism comprises: an elastane yarn drive cylinder which allows the elastane yarn to be fed between the front spinning roller and front sleeve at the spinning part, a filament yarn drive cylinder which allows the filament yarn to be fed between the front spinning roller and front sleeve at the spinning part.
The structural and characteristic features of the invention and all of its advantages shall be understood better with the figures and the detailed description given below in reference to the figures. Therefore, the assessment should be made by taking into account the said figures and detailed explanations.

Figures for Better Understanding of the Invention

Figure 1: is a representative schematic view related to the spinning mechanism which allows obtaining the core yarn comprising variable core spun yarn according to the invention.
Drawings do not have to be scaled and details not necessary for understanding the present invention may be neglected. Moreover, components which are at least widely equal or which have at least widely equal functions are shown with the same number.

Description of Parts References

10.: Roving
11.: Roving bobbin
20.: Filament yarn
21.: Filament yarn bobbin
22.: Filament yarn drive cylinder
30.: Elastane yarn
31.: Elastane yarn reel
32.: Elastane yarn drive cylinder
40.: Data input screen
50.: Drive motor
60.: Inverter
70.: Front spinning roller
71.: Front sleeve
80.: Middle spinning roller
81.: Middle sleeve
90.: Rear spinning roller
91.: Rear sleeve
100.: Cop
101.: Guiding eye
102.: Separator
103.: Antiballoon ring
104.: Pulley block

Detailed Description of the Invention

In this detailed description, the preferred embodiments of the core yarn comprising core spun yarn composed of variable drafted filaman yarn and/or elastane yarn according to the invention and the fabric obtained with this core yarn are only disclosed for better understanding of the subject without forming any limiting effect.
The invention is core yarn obtained from fibers formed of natural fiber (cotton etc.), regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber, or mixture thereof, and it is characterized in that; in the core part, it comprises:

at least one elastane yarn (30) comprising regions where different drafting values are applied, and/or
at least one filament yarn (20) comprising regions where different drafting values are applied and consisting of regenerated or synthetic materials.

Said regions where different drafting values are applied may have different lengths and densities from each other or have the same lengths and densities with each other along the elastane yarn (30). Said regions may have different lengths and densities from each other or have the same lengths and densities with each other along the filament yarn (20). In cases where elastane yarn (30) and filament yarn (20) are used together, said yarns may have the same or differently applied drafting values, and have regions that have the same or different lengths with/from each other.
The core yarn according to the invention is obtained by feeding at least one filament yarn (20) formed of regenerated or synthetic materials and/or at least one elastane yarn (30) into the yarn core during spinning operation of the rovings (10) obtained from fibers formed of natural fiber (cotton etc.), regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the filament yarn (20) and the elastane yarn (30) are fed together to the yarn core.
Within the scope of the invention, mostly pes, pbt filament yarns are primarily preferred, but filament yarns made of different materials may also be used. The type of the filament yarn used is related to the area of usage of the fabric. Here, material means the raw material from which the filament yarns are produced. These raw materials are materials obtained by regeneration of cellulose-based vegetal materials or by chemical-based (such as petroleum) synthetic methods.
The production method of the core yarn according to the invention generally comprises the operation steps of:

preparing fiber formed of natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber, or mixtures of these fibers for spinning operation and making into roving (10),
applying spinning operation to the obtained roving (10),
feeding the core part of the roving (10) spun during spinning operation with at least one filament yarn (20) formed of regenerated or synthetic materials and/or at least one elastane yarn (30) by applying different drafting values, and
applying twisting and winding around bobbin.

The core yarn according to the invention is obtained by application of blending, carder, comber, traction, roving, and spinning operations, respectively, on natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber, or fibers formed from the mixtures thereof, and feeding filament yarn or yarns (20) formed of regenerated or synthetic materials and elastane yarn or yarns (30) to yarn core during spinning operation. Blending, carder, comber, traction, roving, and spinning operations are applied respectively on natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber, or fibers formed from the mixtures thereof before spinning operation so as to prepare them for spinning operation.
Required basis weight, elasticity, and recovery characteristics of the fabric according to the invention are determined in regard to the area of usage. Afterwards, the yarn number to be used for obtaining the fabric is determined according to the basis weight. For example, for a fabric of 320 gr/m2 weight, a core yarn is selected with a final yarn number of 20/1. Afterwards, depending on the recovery value selected according to the area of use, filament yarn (20) type (polyester, nylon, pbt, floss viscon etc.), thickness of the filament yarn (20) to be used, and the number in the core (1, 2 or more filament yarns (20) are used depending on the desired recovery value) are determined. Also, similarly, depending on the flexion (elasticity) value selected according to the area of use, filament yarn (30) type, thickness of the filament yarn to be used, and the number in the core (1, 2 or more filament yarns (30) are used depending on the desired recovery value) are determined. After the basis weight, elasticity and recovery characteristics, the yarn number to be used in fabric production, the filament yarn (20) and elastane yarn (30) types, thicknesses, and usage numbers to be used in said yarn core are determined, the core yarn production to be used in fabric production is performed. The formed yarns are fabricated and dyed with the fabric of desired basis weights and constructions in the fabric width, fabric weight and machine settings in the desired circular knitting construction (interlock, rib, supreme, etc.), flat knitting construction or weaving type in accordance with the usage in confection.
The spinning mechanism that ensures obtaining said core yarn after the fiber formed of natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber, or a mixture of said fibers is prepared for spinning operation to be made into roving (10) form, comprises:

a feeding part,
a spinning part, and
a twisting and winding part.

The feeding part comprises:

a creel where the cord and filament yarn bobbins (11, 21) are attached,
a drive cylinder (22) ensuring filament yarn (20) unwinding and flow,
a drive motor (50) and inverter (60) driving the filament yarn drive cylinder (22) and changing the speed of the drive cylinder (22);
a data input screen (40), on which speed values dependent on the length are entered for the filament yarn (20),
filament yarn (20) guides,
a filament yarn (20) guiding pipe,
a drive cylinder (32) on which the elastane yarn reel (31) is attached, and which ensures filament yarn (30) unwinding and flow,
a drive motor (50) and inverter (60) driving the elastane yarn drive cylinder (32) and changing the speed of the drive cylinder (32);
a data input screen (40), on which speed values dependent on the length are entered for the elastane yarn (30);
elastane yarn (30) guides,
a separator separating the elastane yarn reels (32) from each other,
elastane yarn (30) and filament yarn (20) sensors,
a fiber cord stopper that stops cord (10) flow in case the elastane yarn (30) and filament yarns (20) break, and
a display screen.

The spinning part comprises:

rear, middle, and front spinning rollers (70, 80, 90) arranged successively, a rear sleeve (91) (pressing cylinder) positioned on said rear spinning roller (90),
- a middle sleeve (81) (pressing cylinder) positioned on said middle spinning roller (80),
- a front sleeve (71) (pressing cylinder) positioned on said front spinning roller (80),

The twisting and winding part comprises:

a guiding eye (pigtail) (101),
a separator (102),
an antiballoon ring (103),
a cop (100), and
a pulley block (104).

The roving (10) forming the main material of the core yarn according to the invention is wound over a roving bobbin (11). During the spinning operation, the filament yarn (20) which is the material that provides elasticity, strength, and rewinding capability by being fed into the main material during spinning operation, is found in wound state on the filament yarn bobbin (21). The elastane yarn (30) which provides elasticity by being fed into the main material during spinning operation is also found in wound state over the elastane yarn reel (31). Cord bobbins (11) and filament yarn bobbins (21) are attached in the feeding part at the relevant places of the creel section. The elastane yarn reel (31) is attached to the drive cylinder (32). The roving (10) fed from the roving bobbin (11) to the spinning part is spun and refined by passing among the rear (90), middle (80), and front spinning rollers (70) and the rear (91), middle (81), and front sleeves (71) positioned on top of each other at this section. At this moment, the elastane yarn (30) and/or the filament yarn (20) is fed between the front spinning roller (70) and the front sleeve (71) so that it is spun together with the roving (10). During said spinning operation, the elastane yarn (30) and/or the filament yarn (20) are not fed at a constant speed. Therefore, different drafting values are applied on the elastane yarn (30) and/or the filament yarn (20). The feeding speed values are changed in the elastane yarn (30) and/or filament yarn (20) depending on the demanded length. In order to provide the change of speed relevant to this length, for elastane yarn (30), an elastane yarn (30) data input screen (40), an elastane yarn (30) drive motor (50), and an elastane yarn (30) inverter (60) are added to the spinning mechanism. Similarly, in order to provide the change of speed relevant to this length, for filament yarn (20), a filament yarn (20) data input screen (40), a filament yarn (20) drive motor (50), and a filament yarn (20) inverter (60) are added to the spinning mechanism. The data input screen (40) is the screen where the designed yarn length and the speed values related to this length are entered. The values taken from here are then transmitted to the drive motor (50) by means of the inverter (60) and the movement of the drive cylinders (22, 32) are changed as desired. The inverter (60) transmits the command it takes from the data input screen (40) to the drive motor (50) in order to change the elastane yarn (30) and filament yarn (20) feeding speed. The drive motor (50) changes the speed of the elastane yarn and filament yarn drive cylinders (32, 22) according to the command it takes from the inverter (60). In this way, the elastane yarn (30) and/or filament yarn (20) in different drafting values are fed to the core of the spun roving (10). Preferably, a servo motor is used as the drive motor (50).
Final core yarn is obtained by means of applying twisting and winding operations on the roving (10), the core of which is fed by elastane yarn (30) and/or filament yarn (20). The obtained yarn is wound on cops (100). Cops (100) are bobbins on which spun yarn is wound. While the spun yarn is wound around the cops (100), it is passed through a guiding eye (101) which guides said yarn.
In the prior art, in production of core yarn, elastane and filament yarn (30, 20) flow is obtained in constant speed (with a predetermined constant spinning). The reason for this is because the whole fabric has the same elasticity characteristic. In the prior art, it is not possible to accelerate or decelerate the drive cylinders (32, 22) ensuring the flow of the elastane and filament yarns (30, 20). In order to ensure the speed variation in this movement, a servo motor (50) connected to the data input screen (40) by means of an inverter (60) is added into the yarn spinning mechanism. This added servo motor (50) allows increasing or decreasing the instantaneous feeding amounts of the elastane and filament yarns via rotation of the drive cylinders (22, 32) at different speeds. Since the speeds of the front spinning roller (70) and the front sleeve (71) where the elastane yarn (30) and the filament yarn (20) are fed, do not change, it is made possible to feed the elastane and filament yarns (30, 20) at different drafting values.
Regions with different drafting values are obtained by providing feeding at different tensions. Depending on the level of tension, said regions may have the same or different lengths with each other.
By means of the invention, production of core yarn different elasticity characteristics and knitted and woven fabrics obtained this yarn is possible. In this way, effects that are not achieved before can be obtained.
By means of the invention, during core yarn production, fed elastane and filament yarn (30, 20) can be provided to the yarn core with different spinning variations. In the prior art core yarn systems, the elastane and filament yarn (20, 30) are fed to the system through a single drafting value with the first spinning of the production. By means of the invention, these spinning values can be adjusted within the desired length interval.
In the prior art, the elastane yarn drive cylinder (32) and the filament yarn drive cylinder (22) rotate at a constant speed. With the data input screen (40), inverter (60), and servo motor (50) integrated to the yarn spinning mechanism thanks to the invention; the elastane yarn drive cylinder (32) and the filament yarn drive cylinder (22) can rotate at different speeds. In this way, production of core yarn with different drafting values can be achieved by unwinding and feeding elastane and/or filament yarns (30, 20) at different tensions. Data is entered into data input screen (40) for rotation at different speeds and times and these data is transferred to the servo motor (50) by means of the inverter (60) and thus the speed of the drive cylinders (22, 32) can be changed. In this way, feeding of the fed elastane and/or filament yarn (20, 30) at different tensions is ensured. As a result, core yarn comprising elastane and/or filament yarn (20, 30) different drafting values are produced and 3-d fabric production is ensured by knitting or weaving of these yarns.

Claims

Core yarn obtained from fibers formed of natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber, or mixture thereof, and it is characterized in that; in the core part, it comprises:
• at least one elastane yarn (30) comprising regions where different drafting values are applied, and/or

• at least one filament yarn (20) comprising regions where different drafting values are applied and formed of regenerated or synthetic materials.
The yarn according to Claim 1, and it is characterized in that; said regions have different lengths and densities along the elastane yarn (30).
The yarn according to Claim 1, and it is characterized in that; said regions have the same lengths and densities along the elastane yarn (30).
The yarn according to Claim 1, and it is characterized in that; said regions have different lengths and densities along the filament yarn (20).
The yarn according to Claim 1, and it is characterized in that; said regions have the same lengths and densities along the filament yarn (20).
The production method of the yarn according to claim 1, and it is characterized in that; it comprises the operation steps of:
• preparing fiber formed of natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber, or mixtures of these fibers for spinning operation and making into roving (10),

• applying spinning operation to the obtained roving (10),

• feeding the core part of the roving (10) spun during spinning operation with at least one filament yarn (20) formed of regenerated or synthetic materials and/or at least one elastane yarn (30) by applying different drafting values, and

• applying twisting and winding around bobbin.
A yarn spinning mechanism, which allows application of the method according to claim 6 following making into roving (10), and comprising
• a feeding part,

• a spinning part comprising rear, middle, and front spinning rollers (90, 80, 70) arranged successively, a rear sleeve (91) positioned on said rear spinning roller (90), a middle sleeve (81) positioned on said middle spinning roller (80), and a front sleeve (71) positioned on said front spinning roller (70), and

• twisting and winding parts, and it is characterized in that; it comprises:

• an elastane yarn drive cylinder (32), on which an elastane yarn reel (31) is attached, and which allows the elastane yarn (30) to be fed to the spinning part; a drive motor (50) and inverter (60) driving the elastane yarn drive cylinder (32) and changing the speed of the elastane yarn drive cylinder (32); a data input screen (40), on which speed values dependent on the length are entered for the elastane yarn (30); and/or

• a filament yarn drive cylinder (22) allowing the filament yarn (20) to be fed to the spinning part; a drive motor (50) and inverter (60) driving the filament yarn drive cylinder (22) and changing the speed of the filament yarn drive cylinder (22); a data input screen (40), on which speed values dependent on the length are entered for the filament yarn (20).
The mechanism according to Claim 7, and it is characterized in that; it comprises:
• an elastane yarn drive cylinder (32) which allows the elastane yarn (30) to be fed between the front spinning roller (70) and front sleeve (71) at the spinning part,

• a filament yarn drive cylinder (22) which allows the filament yarn (20) to be fed between the front spinning roller (70) and front sleeve (71) at the spinning part,
The fabric comprising yarn according to any one of the above given claims.
The fabric according to Claim 9, and it is characterized in that; it is woven or knitted fabric.