EP3180088A1 - Composition de coloration par oxydation avec des polymères de silicone non-ioniques particuliers - Google Patents

Composition de coloration par oxydation avec des polymères de silicone non-ioniques particuliers

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Publication number
EP3180088A1
EP3180088A1 EP15731073.1A EP15731073A EP3180088A1 EP 3180088 A1 EP3180088 A1 EP 3180088A1 EP 15731073 A EP15731073 A EP 15731073A EP 3180088 A1 EP3180088 A1 EP 3180088A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cosmetic
cosmetic composition
agent
total amount
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP15731073.1A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP3180088B1 (fr
Inventor
Sylvia KERL
Susanne Bietz
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Publication of EP3180088A1 publication Critical patent/EP3180088A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3180088B1 publication Critical patent/EP3180088B1/fr
Active legal-status Critical Current
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4322—Direct dyes in preparations for temporarily coloring the hair further containing an oxidizing agent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4324—Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic agents for coloring keratinic fibers containing special nonionic silicone polymers.
  • the present invention relates to a packaging unit (kit-of-parts), comprising a cosmetic agent according to the invention and an oxidizing agent preparation.
  • the present invention relates to a process for dyeing keratinic fibers using a cosmetic agent according to the invention and an oxidizing agent preparation.
  • the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic agent according to the invention or a packaging unit according to the invention for increasing the care of keratinous fibers while minimizing the color shift.
  • Human hair is treated today in many ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play an important role. Apart from bleaching agents, which cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, in the field of hair color change the oxidative hair coloring is of essential importance.
  • oxidation colorants For permanent, intensive dyeings with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, also referred to as developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components, the actual dyes.
  • oxidation dye precursors also referred to as developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components, the actual dyes.
  • OFV a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors
  • DZ direct dyes
  • oxidative colorants for stabilizing the dye precursors during storage and for accelerating the reaction during the oxidative application have an alkaline pH, which is adjusted with alkalizing agents, such as alkanolamines, ammonia or inorganic bases.
  • alkalizing agents such as alkanolamines, ammonia or inorganic bases.
  • the abovementioned oxidation dye precursors (OFV) and alkalizing agents are usually incorporated in a cosmetically suitable carrier, for example a cream or a gel.
  • the carrier ensures a homogeneous distribution and a sufficient residence time of the oxidative coloring agent on the hair.
  • oxidation colorants are usually formulated in product series which comprise a standardized carrier which can be combined as completely as possible with the nuance-specific OFV combination and alkalizing agents.
  • Hair dyes are therefore extensively and extensively tested for their achievable color and for a variety of application properties prior to market introduction. However, these tests only consider the interactions between OFV and optionally DZ and the standardized carrier only for a particular standardized carrier.
  • the result of the coloring does not depend solely on the combination of the OFV and optionally DZ used, but is particularly influenced by the ingredients of the carrier.
  • the addition of care and / or active substances to the standardized carriers can lead to a change in the absorption capacity of the dyes formed under the influence of the oxidizing agent or directly used dyes on the keratinic fibers and thus to a comparison with the standardized carrier greatly altered staining result.
  • color shift For the purposes of the present application, such color differences or altered dyeing results are referred to as "color shift.”
  • This color shift also denoted dE or ⁇ , can be determined colorimetrically with a colorimeter with which the colors in the L * , a * , b * Color space can be measured, for example, with a colorimeter from the company Datacolor, type Spectraflash 450th
  • the L * , a * , b * color space is understood to mean the CIELAB color space.
  • the L value stands for the brightness of the color (black and white axis); the larger the value for L, the lighter the coloration.
  • the a value stands for the red-green axis of the system; the larger this value is, the more the coloring is shifted to red.
  • the b value stands for the yellow-blue axis of the system; the larger this value is, the more the color is shifted to yellow.
  • the color shift ⁇ ie the color difference between two (hair) colors, for each of which an L *, a *, b * value combination was determined, is calculated according to the following formula:
  • ao, bo and Lo are the L *, a * and b * values of the hair strands stained using the standardized carrier while and Li are the L *, a * and b * values obtained for colorations using care and / or actives in the standardized carrier.
  • Color differences with ⁇ E ⁇ 1 are not perceptible to the human eye, and differences in color ⁇ ⁇ 2 are only visible to the trained eye Color differences ⁇ > 2 are also visible to the untrained eye.
  • the present application was therefore based on the object of providing cosmetic agents for the color change of keratinic fibers, which contain one or more selected care and active ingredients, which cause little or no color shift.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for changing the color of keratinous fibers, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • n stands for integers from 1 to 5
  • B is a direct bond or a heteroatom from the group of O, N or S, and
  • R is a group * - (CH 2 CH 2 O) x H or * - (CH 2 CHMeO) y -H or * - (CH 2 CH 2 O) x - (CH 2 CHMeO) y -H wherein x and y are each independently from each other, stand for integers from 2 to 20.
  • a chemical bond marked with the symbol " * " stands for a free valence of the corresponding structural fragment.
  • Free valence here means the number of atomic bonds which can be obtained from the corresponding structural fragment at the go out of the " * " marked position.
  • an atomic bond preferably proceeds from the positions of the structural fragments marked with the symbol " * " to form further structural fragments.
  • keratinic fibers or also keratin fibers is understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and human hair, In the context of the present invention it is particularly preferred if the cosmetic agents are used for dyeing human hair.
  • nonionic silicone polymers in the context of the present invention means silicone polymers which have no permanently anionic or permanently cationic groups and no anionizable or cationizable groups, such as, for example, carboxylic acid groups or amine groups.
  • combability in the context of the present invention means both the combability of the wet fiber and the combability of the dry fiber.
  • fatty alcohols in the context of the present invention is understood as meaning aliphatic, long-chain, monohydric, primary alcohols which have unbranched hydrocarbon radicals having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • the hydrocarbon radicals may be saturated but also mono- or polyunsaturated.
  • fatty acids in the context of the present invention is understood as meaning aliphatic monocarboxylic acids with unbranched carbon chain which have hydrocarbon radicals having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • the hydrocarbon radicals can be either saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated.
  • the indication of the total amount in relation to the components of the cosmetic product relates in the present case-unless stated otherwise-to the total amount of active substance of the respective component. Furthermore, the indication of the total amount with respect to the components of the cosmetic product, unless stated otherwise, refers to the total weight of the oxidant-free cosmetic product according to the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention contain a cosmetic carrier.
  • the cosmetic carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations, which are suitable for use on the hair can be used.
  • an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions comprising a C 1 -C 4 alcohol in a total amount of from 3 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether.
  • organic solvents such as methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention contains as the first essential component a) a compound selected from the group of oxidation dye precursors (OFV), substantive dyes (DZ) and mixtures thereof.
  • agents according to the invention contain at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories, so-called developer components and coupler components. Developer components can form the actual dye with themselves. They may therefore be included as sole compounds in the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the present invention contain at least one type of oxidation dye precursor of the developer type.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor. Particularly good results with respect to the coloring of keratinous fibers are obtained when the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one developer type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor.
  • the developer and coupler components are usually used in free form.
  • cosmetic agents which contain the developer and / or coupler components in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, preferably from 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition containing.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it comprises an oxidation dye precursor of the developer and / or coupler type in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition contains.
  • Suitable oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are, for example, p-phenylenediamine and its derivatives.
  • Preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more compounds of the group which is formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloropiphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethylbenzenediamine.
  • p-phenylenediamine N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine and N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine and its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • Preferred binuclear developer components are selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diaminopropan-2-ol, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts.
  • Preferred p-aminophenols are p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives, preferably from 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-4-chlorophenol and / or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • a preferred pyrazole derivative is 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • pyrazolopyrimidines in particular pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines are preferred.
  • Preferred oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are selected from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine,
  • developer components are p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H - Imidazol-1 -yl) -propyl] amine, and / or 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention as oxidation dye precursor additionally contains, in addition to at least one developer component, additionally at least one coupler component.
  • coupler components m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used.
  • Coupler components preferred according to the invention are selected from
  • (F) pyridine derivatives in particular 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-diamino-pyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 3,5- Diamino-2,6-dimethoxy-pyridine,
  • (M) Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and their physiologically tolerated salts.
  • Coupler components preferred according to the invention are selected from the group formed from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4 -chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 - (
  • coupler components according to the invention are resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diamino-phenoxy) propane , 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 1-naphthol and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as oxidation dye precursor at least one developer component selected from the group of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino p-phenylenediamine, 1, 3- bis - [(2-hydroxyethyl-4 'aminophenyl) amino] -propan-2-ol, 1, 10-bis (2', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1, 4, 7,10-tetraoxadecane, 4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, bis (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6 -triaminopyrimidine, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof, and at least
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention additionally contain at least one substantive dye.
  • Direct dyes are dyes that are applied directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the dye. Direct dyes are usually nitro phenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those referred to as Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52 and tetrabromophenol blue known compounds.
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic phenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14 as well as aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 and HC Blue 16, as well as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.
  • Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1 1. HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, and 1, 4-Diamino-2 nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino 4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino 3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitro
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention preferably contains the substantive dyes in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one specific nonionic silicone polymer.
  • This silicone polymer results in improved care, especially wet combability, without, however, causing a color shift visible to the untrained human eye, i. H. the color change ⁇ caused by the addition of special nonionic silicone polymers is less than 2.
  • n is the integer 2 or 3 and B is the heteroatom O.
  • the radical R is a group * - (CH 2 CH 2 O) x H, where x is an integer from 2 to 20, preferably from 3 to 15, preferably from 4 to 10, in particular from 5 to 9, stands.
  • the cosmetic agent particularly preferably contains at least one nonionic silicone polymer of the formula (III)
  • R and R 2 are a methyl group or a hydroxyl group
  • x and y are integers from 1 to 2,000, preferably from 1 to 1,800, preferably from 1 to 1,500, especially from 1 to 1,000 , stand,
  • n integers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, in particular 2 or 3, and
  • m is an integer from 2 to 20, preferably from 3 to 15, preferably from 4 to 10, in particular from 5 to 9, stands.
  • the use of these special nonionic silicone polymers results in an increased care of the keratin fibers after the color change and at the same time does not lead to a visible color shift of the dyeing result for the untrained human eye.
  • the aforementioned silicone polymer can therefore be used in any standardized carriers without the adaptation of the oxidation dye precursors and optionally the direct draw to compensate for the color shift caused by the addition is required.
  • the at least one nonionic silicone polymer b) has an average molecular weight Mw of from 350 to 200,000 Da, preferably from 500 to 180,000 Da, preferably from 1,000 to 150,000 Da, in particular from 3,000 to 100,000 Da.
  • Special nonionic silicone polymers which have the above-mentioned average molecular weight M w , result in a particularly high care of keratin fibers after the color change with simultaneous minimal and with the untrained human eye invisible color shift of ⁇ ⁇ 2.
  • the average molecular weight M w can, for example Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) (Liu XM et al., "Comparative Studies of Poly (Dimethylsiloxane) Using Automated GPC-MALDI-TOF MS and On-line GPC-ESI-TOF MS"; Am. Soc. Mass. Spectrom. , 2003, 14, pages 195 to 202).
  • GPC Gel Permeation Chromatography
  • the at least one nonionic silicone polymer b) in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.00001 to 7.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00005 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 3 , 5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the use of the aforementioned total amount of the specific nonionic silicone polymer leads to an increased care of the keratinic fibers, without, however, influencing the dyeing result in the form of a visible color shift.
  • cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention additionally contain polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate in a total amount of from 0.003 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.006 to 1.1% by weight, preferably from 0.009 to 0.8% by weight. %, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.015 to 0.3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the at least one nonionic silicone polymer in particular the nonionic silicone polymer of the formula (III), can furthermore be stabilized by the addition of polyoxyethylene (7) -lauryl ether. It is therefore preferred in the context of the present invention if the cosmetic compositions according to the invention additionally comprise polyoxyethylene (7) -lauryl ether in a total amount of from 0.01 to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 4.5% by weight, preferably from 0.03 to 3 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.04 to 2.1 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 to 1, 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition ,
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention may contain further active ingredients and additives. It is therefore preferred in the context of the present invention if the cosmetic agent additionally contains at least one further compound selected from the group of (i) thickeners; (Ii) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 8 to 20 carbon atoms; (iii) surfactants, especially amphoteric surfactants; (iv) alkalizing agents; (v) oils; and (vi) their mixtures.
  • the cosmetic agent additionally contains at least one further compound selected from the group of (i) thickeners; (Ii) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 8 to 20 carbon atoms; (iii) surfactants, especially amphoteric surfactants; (iv) alkalizing agents; (v) oils; and (vi) their mixtures.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are preferably formulated as flowable preparations.
  • the cosmetic products should be formulated in such a way that they can be applied and distributed well on the one hand, but on the other hand they are sufficiently viscous so that they remain at the site of action during the exposure time and do not run away.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one thickener selected from the group of (i) anionic, synthetic polymers; (ii) cationic synthetic polymers; (iii) naturally occurring thickening agents, such as nonionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives, such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives, such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; (iv) nonionic synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; (v) inorganic thickening agents, especially phyllosilicates such as bentonite, especially
  • At least one naturally occurring thickener in particular xanthan gum and salts thereof, in a total amount of 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.001 to 1, 0 as a thickener Wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention may preferably further comprise at least one partial ester of a polyol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and linear saturated carboxylic acids having 12 to 30, in particular 14 to 22, carbon atoms, wherein the partial esters may be hydroxylated, in a total amount of 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • Such partial esters are in particular the mono- and diesters of glycerol or the monoesters of propylene glycol or the mono- and diesters of ethylene glycol or the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol, each with linear saturated C 12 -C 30 -carboxylic acids which hydroxylates in particular those with palmitic and stearic acid, the sorbitan mono-, di- or triesters of C12-C30 linear saturated carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic, palmitic, stearic or mixtures of these fatty acids and the like Methyl glucose mono- and diesters of linear saturated C 12 -C 30 -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprise at least one polyol partial ester selected from glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glycerol distearate, glycerol dipalmitate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol monopalmitate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate and mixtures thereof, in particular mixtures of glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glyceryl distearate and Glycerindipalmitat in a total amount of 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition containing.
  • the use of the abovementioned alcohols, partial esters and polypartial esters in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be particularly preferred when the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are present in the form of a cream-form oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one surfactant.
  • Surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds which consist of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic moiety.
  • a basic property of surfactants and emulsifiers is oriented adsorption at interfaces as well as aggregation into micelles and the formation of lyotropic phases.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain at least one amphoteric surfactant in a total amount of 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO () or -SO 3 () group.
  • amphoteric surfactants the following compounds are particularly preferred in the context of the present invention:
  • Alkylbetaines having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group
  • Amidopropylbetaines having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the acyl group
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention contain as surfactant at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from amidopropylbetaines having 9 to 13 carbon atoms in the acyl group, in a total amount of 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular of 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.5 to 6.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product. It has proved to be particularly advantageous if the ethoxylated nonionic surfactant has an HLB value above 10, preferably above 13. For this purpose, it is necessary that the nonionic surfactant has a sufficiently high degree of ethoxylation.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention therefore contains, as the ethoxylated nonionic surfactant, at least one ethoxylated surfactant having at least 12 ethylene oxide units.
  • the addition products of 20 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil are particularly suitable according to the invention.
  • the at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI name ceteth-12, steareth-12, ceteareth-12, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, ceteareth- 30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, more preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth- 30 and Ceteareth-30.
  • Cosmetic agents in the context of the present invention generally have a basic pH, in particular between pH 8.0 and pH 12. These pHs are required to ensure opening of the outer cuticle (cuticle) and to allow penetration of the oxidation dye precursors and / or the oxidizing agent into the hair.
  • the adjustment of the aforementioned pH can preferably be carried out using an alkalizing agent.
  • the alkalizing agent is selected from the group of (i) inorganic alkalizing agents; (ii) organic alkalizing agents; and (iii) mixtures thereof, and in a total amount of from 1.5 to 9.5% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 8.5% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 8.0% by weight. %, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Preferred inorganic alkalizing agents are selected from the group consisting of ammonia or ammonium hydroxide, ie aqueous solutions of ammonia, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate and mixtures thereof.
  • Ammonia or ammonium hydroxide is a particularly preferred alkalizing agent.
  • ammonia is in a total amount of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 7.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition , contain.
  • Preferred organic alkalizing agents are selected from at least one alkanolamine.
  • Alkanolamines which are preferred according to the invention are selected from alkanolamines of primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-amino-butan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol (monoisopropanolamine), 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl propanol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2 -methylpropane-1,3-diol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, N, N-dimethyl-ethanolamine, triethanol
  • alkanolamines are selected from the group of 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1, 3-diol and triethanolamine.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise a mixture of monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1ol.
  • the at least one alkanolamine in a total amount of 0.05 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • organic alkalizing agents are selected from basic amino acids, more preferably selected from the group which is formed from L-arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D / L-lysine and Mixtures thereof.
  • Basic amino acids which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from L-arginine, D-arginine and D / L-arginine.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise at least one alkalizing agent other than alkanolamines and ammonia in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent ,
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise, as alkalizing agents, a mixture of at least two different alkanolamines, in particular monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, in a total amount of from 0.05 to 15% by weight. , preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the pH of the cosmetic compositions of the invention measured at 22 ° C, 8 to 13, preferably 9.5 to 12, preferably 10 to 1 1, 5, in particular 10.5 to 1 1.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one oil selected from the group of sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, Apricot kernel oil, macadamia nut oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 2.0 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent.
  • the use of a previously mentioned oil can further increase the care effect of the nonionic silicone polymers.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention particularly preferably contain grape seed oil in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • the present invention as cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion - based on the total weight of the cosmetic products -
  • Cetearyl alcohol in a total amount of 2.0 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 5.0 to 12 wt .-%, further
  • amphoteric surfactant selected from amidopropylbetaines containing 9 to 13 carbon atoms in the acyl group, in a total amount of from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight
  • a mixture of at least two different alkanolamines in particular monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, in a total amount of from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight %, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, continue
  • Grape seed oil in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-%.
  • Oxidative staining compositions may also be prepared directly prior to use from two or more separately packaged compositions. This is particularly useful for the separation of incompatible ingredients to avoid premature reaction. Separation into multicomponent systems is particularly preferred where incompatibilities of the ingredients are to be expected or feared.
  • the oxidative coloring composition in these cases is prepared by the consumer just prior to use by mixing the components. In the context of the present invention, this procedure is particularly preferred for oxidative colorants in which the cosmetic agent according to the invention is initially present separately from an oxidizing agent preparation containing at least one oxidizing agent.
  • a further subject of the present invention is therefore a packaging unit (kit-of-parts), comprising - made up separately - a) at least one container (C1) containing a cosmetic agent according to the invention, and b) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation which contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetically acceptable carrier in a total amount of 0.5 to 7.0 wt .-%, preferably from 1, 0 to 7.0 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 7.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation, and at least one acid.
  • kit-of-parts comprising - made up separately - a) at least one container (C1) containing a cosmetic agent according to the invention, and b) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation which contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetically acceptable carrier in a total amount of 0.5 to 7.0 wt .-%, preferably from 1,
  • the use of the at least one nonionic silicone polymer in combination with certain amounts of oxidizing agent results in the use of the above-mentioned packaging unit for coloring keratinic fibers surprisingly in an increased care, especially in an increased wet combability, but without the addition of the nonionic silicone polymer one with the untrained human eye discernible color shift of ⁇ > 2 occurs.
  • the term "container” is understood to mean an envelope which is present in the form of an optionally resealable bottle, tube, can, sachet, sachet or similar wrappings However, these are enclosures made of glass or plastic.
  • the oxidizing agents in the present invention are different from atmospheric oxygen.
  • hydrogen peroxide and its solid addition products to organic and inorganic compounds can be used.
  • Suitable solid addition products according to the invention are, in particular, the addition products of urea, melamine, polyvinylpyrrolidinone and also sodium borate.
  • Hydrogen peroxide and / or one of its solid addition products of organic or inorganic compounds are particularly preferred as the oxidizing agent.
  • the oxidizing agent is therefore preferably selected from the group of persulfates, chlorites, hydrogen peroxide and adducts of hydrogen peroxide with urea, melamine and sodium borate, in particular hydrogen peroxide.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that as the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 7.0 wt .-%, preferably from 1, 0 to 7.0 wt .-%, in particular of 3, 0 to 7.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation is included.
  • the calculation of the total amount refers to 100% H2O2.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations may further contain water in a total amount of from 40 to 98% by weight, in particular from 65 to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations further contain at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 5 , 0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation.
  • Preference is given in particular to cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, such as are obtainable in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids, and mixtures of these alkanols.
  • the mixture is cetearyl alcohol.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations comprise at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant, which is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI designation Ceteth-12, Steareth-12, Ceteareth-12, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30, Ceteareth-30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, more preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30 and ceteareth-30, in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular of 1 to 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation.
  • surfactants having the INCI designation Ceteth-12, Steareth-12, Ceteareth-12, Ceteth-20
  • the oxidizing agent formulation s at least one ester of a carboxylic acid having 10 to 20 carbon atoms and a linear or branched alcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular isopropyl myristate, in a total amount of 3.0 25 wt .-%, preferably from 5.0 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 8.0 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations contain, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparations,
  • At least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant which is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI name ceteth-12, steareth-12, ceteareth-12, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, Ceteareth-30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, more preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30 and ceteareth-30, in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, such as
  • the oxidizing agent preparations according to the invention also contain at least one acid.
  • Preferred acids are selected from dipicolinic acid, edible acids such as citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid, lactic acid and tartaric acid, dilute mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, pyrophosphoric acid and sulfuric acid, as well as mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations preferably have a pH in the range from 2 to 5, in particular from 3 to 4, on.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention in the container C1 is mixed with the oxidizing agent preparation in the container C2 or vice versa.
  • the packaging unit contains at least one further hair treatment agent in an additional container, in particular a conditioning agent preparation.
  • This conditioner composition advantageously contains at least one conditioning agent selected from the group of cationic polymers, silicone derivatives and oils.
  • the packaging unit application aids, such as combs, brushes, Applicetten or brush, personal protective clothing, especially disposable gloves, and optionally include instructions for use.
  • An applicette is understood to mean a broad brush, on whose end of the stem there is a tip, which allows and simplifies the division of fiber bundles out of the total amount of fibers.
  • a further subject matter of the present invention is a method for coloring keratinic fibers with increased care while simultaneously minimizing color shift, the method comprising the following method steps:
  • an oxidizing agent preparation comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one oxidizing agent and at least one acid, c) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), d) applying the mixture obtained in step c) the keratinic fibers and leaving this mixture for a time of 10 to 60 minutes, preferably from 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at least 30 ° C on the keratinic fibers,
  • the inventive method for coloring keratinic fibers using a special nonionic silicone polymer results in improved care of dyed keratinic fibers, but without the addition of the nonionic silicone polymer resulting in an undesired color shift of ⁇ > 2 visible to the untrained human eye.
  • Room temperature is to be understood in the context of the present invention, the ambient temperature.
  • the effect of the dyeing and / or whitening preparation can be enhanced by external heat, for example by means of a heat hood.
  • the preferred exposure time of the dyeing and / or whitening preparation to the keratinic fiber is 10 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes.
  • the remaining colorant is washed out of the keratinic fibers by means of a cleaning preparation, which preferably contains at least one cationic and / or anionic and / or nonionic surfactant, and / or water. If necessary, the process is repeated with a further agent.
  • the keratinic fibers are optionally rinsed with an aftertreatment agent, such as a conditioner, and dried with a towel or a hot air blower.
  • an aftertreatment agent such as a conditioner
  • the application of the dyeing preparation is usually done by hand by the user.
  • Personal protective clothing is preferably worn here, in particular suitable protective gloves, for example made of plastic or latex for single use (disposable gloves) and optionally an apron. But it is also possible to apply the colorants with an application aid on the keratinic fibers.
  • the oxidizing agent preparation M2 and further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention what has been said about the cosmetic agents according to the invention and the packaging unit according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
  • a further subject matter of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic agent according to the invention or a packaging unit (kit of parts) according to the invention for increasing the care of keratinic fibers while minimizing the color shift.
  • a cosmetic agent according to the invention or a packaging unit (kit of parts) according to the invention for increasing the care of keratinic fibers while minimizing the color shift.
  • a special nonionic silicone polymer results in an increased maintenance of dyed keratinic fibers, without the addition of this care substance resulting in an undesirable color shift ⁇ > 2 visible to the untrained human eye.
  • compositions of the cosmetic agents used oil-in-water emulsions, all amounts in% by weight.
  • the fat base was melted together at 80 ° C and dispersed with a portion of the amount of water. Subsequently, the remaining recipe ingredients were incorporated with stirring in order. It was then made up to 100% by weight with water and the formulation was stirred cold.
  • the formulation V1 is a comparative formulation not according to the invention without a nonionic silicone polymer.
  • the formulations E1 and E2 are examples according to the invention. Oxidizing agent preparation 01 (all amounts in% by weight)
  • the cosmetic agents V1 and E1 and E2 were each mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 1 with the above oxidizing agent preparation 01.
  • the oxidative dyes prepared in this manner were each applied in defined amounts (4 g oxidative dye per 1 g Yakhaar) to Yakhaar streaks (12 streaks per oxidative stain) and remained on the hair tresses for a period of 30 minutes at 32 ° C , The remaining remedies were then rinsed with lukewarm water from the hair strands for 2 minutes, the strands first dried with a towel and then dry-blown.
  • ao, bo and Lo are in each case the mean values of the colorimetry values of the Yakhaar streaks stained using the standardized carrier, a ,, bi and L respectively represent the average values of the colorimetric values which are used for stained Yakhaar streaks with addition of the particular nonionic silicone polymer to the standardized carrier.
  • Color differences with ⁇ E ⁇ 1 are imperceptible to the human eye, and differences in color with ⁇ ⁇ 2 are visible to the trained eye
  • the ⁇ values for the colorations using the cosmetic compositions E1 and E2 are also shown in Table 1.
  • the colorations with the cosmetic compositions E1 and E2 according to the invention which comprise at least one particular nonionic silicone in one Containing total amount of 0.25 wt .-% and 0.5 wt .-%, have only a slight color shift of ⁇ ⁇ 2, which are not visible to the untrained eye.
  • the cosmetic agents V1 and E2 were each mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 1 with the above oxidizing agent preparation 01.
  • each tress was moistened with combing with a hard rubber crest with fine teeth (Hercules shegemann, Hamburg Germany) for 2 seconds with water. After 3 combing operations have been performed, the combing force is measured during a further 10 combing operations, whereby the respective hair strand rotates slowly during the combing process. The resulting measurements are compared using the following statistical tests embedded in Statistica 10.0 software (StatSoft Inc., USA):
  • Ko is the average of the combing power for the undyed hair strands
  • Ki is the mean value for the hair strands treated with the respective oxidative coloring agent.
  • the care of the strands of hair is the higher, the lower the combing force applied and thus the higher the change in the combing force.
  • Table 2 shows the dK values for the colorations using the cosmetic agents V1 and E2.
  • the coloration with the cosmetic product E2 according to the invention which contains at least one special nonionic silicone polymer in a total amount of 0.5% by weight, shows a higher change in the combing power and thus an increased care compared to a coloration without a nonionic silicone polymer (V1) e up.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique, destinée à la coloration de fibres de kératine, en particulier de cheveux humains, qui contient au moins un polymère de silicone non-ionique particulier et au moins un précurseur de coloration par oxydation et/ou un colorant direct ; l'utilisation de l'au moins un polymère de silicone non-ionique permet d'améliorer l'entretien des fibres de kératine avec un changement de couleur extrêmement faible. La présente invention concerne en outre une unité d'emballage correspondante (kit-of-parts) et un procédé de coloration de fibres de kératine. Enfin, la présente invention concerne l'utilisation de la composition cosmétique de l'invention dans l'entretien des fibres de kératine avec minimisation du changement de couleur.
EP15731073.1A 2014-08-14 2015-06-25 Composition de coloration par oxydation avec des polymères de silicone non-ioniques particuliers Active EP3180088B1 (fr)

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DE102014216202.5A DE102014216202A1 (de) 2014-08-14 2014-08-14 "Oxidationsfärbemittel mit speziellen nichtionischen Siliconpolymeren"
PCT/EP2015/064352 WO2016023666A1 (fr) 2014-08-14 2015-06-25 Composition de coloration par oxydation avec des polymères de silicone non-ioniques particuliers

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EP0547790B1 (fr) * 1991-12-18 1995-08-23 Kao Corporation Composition tinctoriale pour fibres kératiniques
US6156076A (en) * 1998-01-16 2000-12-05 Bristol-Myers Squibb Company Two-part hair dye compositions containing polyether polyurethanes and conditioning agents
JP4181749B2 (ja) * 2001-01-05 2008-11-19 花王株式会社 半永久染毛剤組成物
EP2000125B1 (fr) * 2006-03-16 2015-06-10 Kao Corporation Composition de coloration capillaire
JP5132109B2 (ja) * 2006-09-01 2013-01-30 花王株式会社 一剤式染毛剤組成物
WO2009041095A1 (fr) * 2007-09-26 2009-04-02 Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd. Colorant capillaire et composition de teinture capillaire
AU2008310493B2 (en) * 2007-10-12 2013-02-14 Kao Corporation Hair dye composition
JP2010070549A (ja) * 2008-08-19 2010-04-02 Kao Corp 染毛剤組成物
DE102010044381A1 (de) * 2010-09-04 2012-03-08 Merck Patent Gmbh Farbstoff-Ascorbinsäurederivate
WO2012033813A2 (fr) * 2010-09-07 2012-03-15 Segetis, Inc. Compositions pour colorer des fibres de kératine
BG66810B1 (bg) * 2011-03-30 2018-12-31 „Арома“ Ад Трайна боя за коса под формата на пяна
DE102011081190A1 (de) * 2011-08-18 2013-02-21 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zum Behandeln keratinischer Fasern, enthaltend spezifische Aminosilikone und Alkali-sierungsmittel
DE102011082918A1 (de) * 2011-09-19 2013-03-21 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Schaumförmige Färbemittel für keratinische Fasern mit verbessertem Farbaufzug

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EP3180088B1 (fr) 2019-10-16

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