EP3088588B1

EP3088588B1 - Machine for attaching pockets

Info

Publication number: EP3088588B1
Application number: EP16167529.3A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Bruno Mancini
Original assignee: Derim Srl
Current assignee: Derim Srl
Priority date: 2015-04-29
Filing date: 2016-04-28
Publication date: 2017-08-23
Anticipated expiration: 2036-04-28
Also published as: ITUA20162992A1; EP3088588A1

Description

The present patent application for industrial invention relates to a machine for attaching pockets. The field of application is the tailoring sector, with particular reference to attaching pockets on fabric.
Fig. 1A shows a pocket (T) that has already been formed, folded and sewn according to the prior art. The pocket (T) has been sewn on fabric (B) along a substantially U-shaped seam line (D). The pocket (T) comprises:

a central portion (T1),
three end portions (T2, T3, T4) intended to be folded under the central portion (T1) and sewn on the fabric (B) in such manner to generate a compartment between the pocket and the fabric, and
an opening portion (T6) that defines an opening (T5) used to access the compartment of the pocket.

When they are folded, the end portions (T2, T3, T4) define a basically U-shaped folding line (T7) that is intended to become the external edge of the pocket (T) when the pocket is sewn to the fabric (B). The folding line (T7) is formed when the end portions (T2, T3, T4) are folded under the central portion (T1).
The folding line (T7) comprises two end points (T70, T71) disposed on the opening portion (T6). Therefore, the width of the opening (T5) is defined by the distance between the end points (T70, T71) of the folding line.
Figs. 1 and 2 describe a machine (200) for attaching pockets such as the one shown in Fig. 1A.
With reference to Fig. 1, the machine comprises a work surface (P) to support the fabric (B) whereon the pocket (T) is to be sewn.
With reference to Fig. 2, the machine (200) comprises a template (1) intended to act as support for the pocket (T) (Fig. 1) while sewing the pocket.
The machine comprises a support (S) to support the template (1). The support (S) can be made in one piece with the template (1), as shown in Fig. 2.
With reference to Fig. 1, the machine comprises moving means (C) to move the support (S). The moving means (C) move the support (S) along a longitudinal direction (A) in order to extract the template (1) from the pocket (T) through the opening (T5) after positioning the pocket (T) on the fabric (B). The template (1) has a transverse size, that is to say a size in transverse direction orthogonally to the longitudinal direction (A).
Advantageously, the machine comprises heating means (not visible in the figures) intended to heat three folding plates (3) (Figure 2) connected to the template (1). The function of the folding plates (3) is to fold the end portions (T2, T3, T4) under the template (1). The folding plates (3) can be heated to iron the pocket (T).
In particular, the folding plates (3) fold the end portions (T2, T3, T4) of the pocket (T) under the template (1). The pocket (T) with folded end portions (T2, T3, T4) is positioned on the fabric (B) laid on the work surface (P). The pocket (T) is blocked with suitable blocking means (not shown) in order not to move.
The moving means (C) are actuated in such manner to move the support (S) with a translational motion along the longitudinal direction (A). In this way, the template (1) comes out of the pocket (T) through the opening (T5). After extracting the template (1) from the pocket (T), the end portions (T2, T3, T4) of the pocket (T) are sewn to the fabric (B).
If the pocket (T) has a tapered shape with decreasing width going towards the opening (T5), the width of the opening (T5) will be lower than the transverse size of the template (1). Consequently, the template (1) cannot be removed from the pocket (T) after sewing the pocket (T) on the fabric (B).
Moreover, some pockets (T) have a critical shape even before they receive the template (1). More precisely, some tailoring operations require making a pocket (T) with a narrow opening (T5) because of:

the shape of the pocket (T),
the seams made on the pocket that reduce the width of the pocket opening, or
accessories fixed or sewn to the pocket.

Therefore the template shown in Figs. 1 and 2 cannot be used for attaching this type of pockets with a critical shape.
US4,445,631 discloses a patch pocket-forming, folding and setting apparatus comprising a holding blade made in one piece, exactly like the template illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2.
GB2142938 discloses a garment pressing machine comprising fixed parts and mobile parts that can be moved either closer or farther. The mobile parts are shaped bodies with a certain size, which extend from the fixed parts in such manner that the pressing machine can increase its size and can iron garments, such as skirts.
Obviously, being provided with cumbersome parts, such a pressing machine cannot be used for attaching pockets when a template shaped as a flat plate needs to be used.
The purpose of the present invention is to remedy the drawbacks of the prior art, by providing a machine for attaching pockets that is versatile and suitable for being used with different pocket shapes or different types of seams made on the pockets.
Another purpose is to provide such a machine that is suitable for being used for attaching pockets with a special shape that cannot be attached to a fabric in the traditional way.
Another purpose is provide such a machine for attaching pockets that is reliable, effective and simple to install and use.
The machine for attaching pockets according to the invention comprises

a template that defines the dimensions of a pocket to be attached on a fabric;
a support used to support said template; and
moving means used to move the support in a longitudinal direction.

The template comprises at least two separate portions, wherein at least one portion of said at least two portions of the template is a mobile portion that can move transversally with respect to the longitudinal direction, in such manner that the template can be in a maximum size configuration, in transverse direction, which defines the pocket dimensions, and a minimum size configuration, in transverse direction, in order to insert and extract the template into and from the pocket; said at least two portions of the template being shaped as a flat plate with low thickness in order to be inserted into a pocket.
The machine comprises moving means to move said at least one mobile portion of the template from a retracted position, wherein the template is in minimum size configuration, to an extracted position, wherein the template is in maximum size configuration.
For purposes of clarity, the description of the machine according to the invention continues with reference to the attached drawings, which only have an illustrative, not limiting value, wherein:

Fig. 1 is an axonometric view of a machine for attaching pockets according to the prior art;
Fig. 1A is a plan view of a pocket after sewing;
Fig. 2 is an axonometric bottom view of a template according to the prior art whereon a pocket is laid;
Fig. 3 is a plan view of a pocket fixed to a fabric and suitable for being folded with the machine of the invention;
Fig. 4 is an axonometric view of a pocket and of the machine for attaching pockets according to the invention, which shows a first embodiment of a template;
Fig. 5 is a top view of the pocket and of the machine of Fig. 4;
Fig. 6 is a perspective view as Fig. 4, except for it shows a template in maximum size configuration;
Fig. 7 is a top view of the pocket and of the machine of Fig. 6;
Fig. 8 is an axonometric top view of a pocket and of the machine for attaching pockets according to the invention, which shows a template according to a second embodiment;
Fig. 9 is a plan view as Fig. 8, which shows the template in maximum size configuration;
Fig. 10 is a bottom view of the machine of Fig. 8;
Fig. 11 is a bottom view of the machine of Fig. 9;
Figs. 12 - 20 are perspective views of the machine of the invention during the application of a first pocket embodiment;
Fig. 21 is the same as Fig. 15, except for it shows the machine of the invention during the application of a second pocket embodiment.

In the following description the parts that are identical or correspond to the parts described above are identified with the same numerals, omitting their detailed description.
Fig. 3 shows a pocket (T) fixed on a fabric (B) by means of two rectilinear seams (D1, D2), disposed at the ends of the opening portion (T6) of the pocket (T). The rectilinear seams (D1, D2) cause a narrowing of the opening (T5) of the pocket. Such a type of pocket cannot be attached with the known machines provided with traditional one-piece templates.
Figs. 4, 5 and 6 disclose a machine for attaching pockets according o the invention, generally indicated with reference numeral 100.
The machine (100) comprises a template (1) provided with three separate portions (15, 16a, 16b). The three portions (15, 16a, 16b) comprise two mobile portions (16a, 16b) that can move transversally with respect to the longitudinal direction (A) and one fixed portion (15) that cannot move transversally with respect to the longitudinal direction (A).
The fixed portion (15) is shaped as a plate and is fixed to the support (S) with fixing means (7), such as for example rivets. The fixed portion (15) comprises a first lateral edge (15a) and a second lateral edge (15b) in parallel position, as shown in Fig. 6.
The two mobile portions (16a, 16b) are shaped as a flat plate with low thickness in order to be inserted in a pocket. The mobile portions (16a, 16b) can translate in transverse direction with respect to the fixed portion (15) and are positioned under the support (S). In particular, the mobile portions (16a, 16b) comprise a right-hand mobile portion (16a) and a left-hand mobile portion (16b). Each mobile portion (16a, 16b) has a trapezoidal shape with decreasing width getting away from the support (S).
With reference to Figs. 6 and 7, each mobile portion (16a, 16b) comprises:

an internal longitudinal edge (17) parallel to the longitudinal direction (A) and faced towards the fixed portion (15),
an external longitudinal edge (18) opposite to the internal longitudinal edge (17), and
two transverse edges (19) that join the internal longitudinal edge (17) and the external longitudinal edge (18).

The mobile portions are disposed in correspondence of the lateral edges (15a, 15b) of the fixed portion. The right-hand mobile portion (16a) is disposed in correspondence of the first lateral edge (15a) of the fixed portion, and the left-hand mobile portion (16b) is disposed in correspondence of the second lateral edge (15b) of the fixed portion.
The template (1) has a transverse size, that is to say a size in a transverse direction orthogonally to the longitudinal direction (A) of the support (S). The term "size" refers to the maximum distance between the external longitudinal edges (18) of the two mobile portions (16a, 16b). The distance is measured in correspondence of two points of the external longitudinal edges (18) lying on a straight line perpendicular to the longitudinal direction (A) of the support (S).
With reference to Figs. 4, 5 and 6, the machine (100) comprises moving means (4) to move the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template with respect to the fixed portion (15). The moving means (4) comprise an actuator (41) that actuates a lever mechanism (L) connected to the two mobile portions (16a, 16b).
The actuator (41) can be a linear actuator, such as for example a cylinder-piston assembly. The lever mechanism (L) comprises:

a rocker lever (44) pivoted with a pin (F) to the support (S);
a rod (45) slidingly mounted on the support (S) along the longitudinal direction (A), and
cranks (46a, 46b) connected to the rod (45) and to the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template (1).

The rocker lever (44) comprises a first end (44a) connected to the actuator and a second end (44b) connected to the rod (45).
The rod (45) is provided with guiding slots (45a) engaged by pins (S1) joined to the support (S). In view of the above, the ends of the guiding slots (45a) act as stop borders for the pins (S1) of the support and define the stops for the translation travel of the rod along the longitudinal direction (A).
The cranks (46a, 46b) comprise two pairs of cranks comprising a right-hand pair of cranks (46a) connected to the right-hand mobile portion (16a) and a left-hand pair of cranks (46b) connected to the left-hand mobile portion (16b).
With reference to Figs. 5 and 7, each crank (46a, 46b) comprises:

a head (47) hinged to the rod (45), and
a connection pin (5) that is connected to the corresponding mobile portion.

The connection pin (5) slides inside a guiding slot (S2) of the support plate.
Optionally, each crank (46a, 46b) comprises a second pin (6) that slides inside a second slot (S3) (Fig. 5) obtained in the support (S).
It must be considered that the slots (S2, S3) of the support (S) act as cam and the pins (5, 6) act as followers. The slots (S2, S3) of the support (S) are curved in such manner to permit a roto-translational movement of the mobile portions (16a, 16b) along a transverse direction with respect to the longitudinal direction (A).
The guiding slot (S2) of the support (S) has a proximal end (S2a) (Fig. 7) in proximity to the rod (45) and a distal end (S2b) (Fig. 5) The connection pin (5) slides in the guiding slot (S2) making travels between the proximal end (S2a) and the distal end (S2b) of the guiding slot. Therefore, the proximal end (S2a) and the distal end (S2b) of the guiding slot (S2) act as stops for the sliding travel of the connection pin (5) in the guiding slot (S2).
In particular, when the connection pin (5) is stopped against the proximal end (S2a) of the guiding slot, the crank (46a, 46b) is in a contracted position towards the longitudinal direction (A). Instead, when the connection pin (5) is stopped against the distal end (S2b) of the guiding slot, the crank (46a, 46b) is in a diverged position with respect to the longitudinal direction (A).
The moving means are configured in such manner to move the mobile portions (16a, 16b) from an extracted position, wherein the external longitudinal edge (18) of the mobile portion (16a, 16b) is at a maximum distance from the longitudinal direction (A) and the template (1) has a maximum transverse size, in order to fold the end portions (T2, T3, T4) of the pocket, to a retracted position, wherein the external longitudinal edge (18) of the mobile portion (16a, 16b) is at a minimum distance from the longitudinal direction (A).
With reference to Figs. 4 and 5, when the pocket (T) is fixed on the fabric (B) with the seams (D1, D2), the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template are disposed in retracted position and the template (1) is in minimum size configuration. When the mobile portions (16a, 16b) are in retracted position, the template (1) has a minimum transverse size that is lower than the width of the opening (T5) of the pocket, and therefore the template (1) can be inserted in the pocket through the opening (T5).
Figs. 8 to 11 show the machine (100) comprising a template (1) according to a second embodiment, wherein each mobile portion (16a, 16b) has a trapezoidal shape with increasing width getting away from the support (S).
With reference to Fig. 9, when the mobile portions (16a, 16b) are in extracted position, the internal longitudinal edges (17) of the mobile portions are spaced out from the lateral edges (15a, 15b) of the fixed portion and the template (1) has a maximum transverse size that defines the pocket dimensions, thus allowing for the correct folding of the pocket.
When the pocket has been folded on the template (1), being in its maximum size configuration, the template (1) cannot be extracted from the pocket (T) both because it would interfere with the pocket seams and because it would damage the folding. Consequently, the moving means (4) are actuated to bring the template (1) to its minimum size configuration.
With reference to Figs. 8 to 11, the fixed portion (15) and the mobile portions (16a, 16b) are plates lying on the same plane.
As a result, when the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template are in retracted position (Figs. 8 and 10), the mobile portions are disposed side by side. In particular, the internal longitudinal edges (17) of the mobile portions are stopped against the lateral edges (15a, 15b) of the fixed portion and the template (1) has a minimum transverse size that is lower than the width of the opening (T5) of the pocket (T), in such manner to allow for extracting the template (1) from the pocket (T).
On the contrary, when the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template are in extracted position (Figs. 9 and 11), the mobile portions are spaced out from the fixed portion. In particular, the internal longitudinal edges (17) of the mobile portions are spaced out from the lateral edges (15a, 15b) of the fixed portion and the template (1) has a maximum transverse size that is higher than the width of the opening (T5) of the pocket (T), thus preventing the extraction of the template (1) from the pocket (T).
Although it is not shown in the figures, the fixed portion (15) and the mobile portions (16a, 16b) can be in the form of plates lying on different planes. In other words, the mobile portions (16a, 16b) can be disposed either above or under the fixed portion (15). In such a case, the internal longitudinal edges (17) of the mobile portions can be overlapped either above or under the fixed portion (15), both when the mobile portions (16a, 16b) are in extracted position, and when the mobile portions (16a, 16b) are in retracted position.
Although this description refers to the backward extraction of the template (1) from the pocket (T), said template (1) can also be used when the template (1) is inserted in a pocket (T) provided with a narrow opening (T5) before placing the template (1) inside the pocket (T).
The opening (T5) of the pocket (T) can be narrowed because of the shape of the pocket (T), of seams made on the pocket (T) or of accessories fixed to the pocket (T). In such a case, in order to insert the template (1) inside the pocket (T). the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template (1) must be brought to the retracted position. When the mobile portions (16a, 16b) are in retracted position, the template (1) has a minimum size that is lower than the width of the opening (T5) of the pocket, and therefore the template (1) can be inserted into the pocket (T) through the opening (T5).
With reference to Figs. 12 to 20, a process for attaching a first embodiment of pocket (T) on a fabric (B) with the machine (100) is disclosed. In addition to the aforementioned parts, the machine (100) comprises:

a folding unit (7) used to fold the pocket (T) on the template (1),
a sewing station (9) used to completely sew the pocket (T) on the fabric (B), and
a loading gripper (8) to transport the pocket (T) and the fabric (B) to the sewing station (9).

The sewing station (9) comprises a sewing head (90) and a sewing template (91) that holds and moves the pocket (T) under the sewing head (90) in order to sew the pocket (T) on the fabric (B).
With reference to Fig. 12, the pocket (T) has a tapered shape with increasing width going towards the opening (T5) of the pocket.
However, the pocket (T) is fixed on the fabric (B) by means of two rectilinear seams (D1, D2) disposed at the ends of the opening portion (T6) of the pocket (T), which define a narrowing of the opening and prevent the use of a traditional one-piece template.
Initially, the back edge (T8) of the pocket is faced towards the template (1). The template (1) is in minimum size configuration and the mobile portions of the template are in retracted position, in such manner that the width of the template is lower than the narrowing of the opening.
With reference to Fig. 13, the template (1) is moved along the longitudinal direction (A) in such manner that the template enters the pocket (T) and completely comes out from the opening (T5) of the pocket.
With reference to Fig. 14, the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template (1) go from the retracted position to the extracted position, wherein the back edges of the mobile portions of the template are out of the opening of the pocket.
With reference to Fig. 15, the pocket (T) is turned over by 180°, pivoting on the seams (D1, D2) in such manner to position the pocket (T) on the template (1), which is in the maximum size configuration.
With reference to Fig. 16, the folding unit (7) is lowered onto the pocket (T) and folds the pocket edges, using the external longitudinal edges (18) of the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template as folding elements.
With reference to Figs. 17 and 18, the folding unit (7) is raised and the loading gripper (8) is positioned on the folded pocket (T) in such manner to grip and block the folded pocket (T) on the fabric (B). Then the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template return to the retracted position in order to extract the template (1) from the pocket (T) through the opening (T5), without interfering with the seams (D1, D2).
With reference to Fig. 19, the loading gripper (8) takes the fabric (B) with the pocket (T) and transports it to the sewing station (9).
With reference to Fig. 20, the sewing template (91) holds the fabric (B) with the pocket (T) and moves it in such manner that the sewing head (90) can sew the pocket (T) on the fabric (B).
Fig. 21 discloses a process for attaching a second embodiment of pocket (T') having a tapered shape with decreasing width going towards the opening. Such a type of pocket (T') cannot be attached on a fabric with a traditional one-piece template, apart from the fact that such a pocket is provided with seams that make the opening narrower.
With reference to Fig. 21, the template (1) is positioned on the fabric (B) with the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template in extracted position. Then, the pocket (T') is loaded on the template (1) in such manner that the folding unit (7) can fold the edges of the pocket on the external longitudinal edges (18) of the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template, which is in maximum size configuration.
The other steps of the process for attaching the pocket (T') on the fabric (B) are identical to the ones described in Figs. 16 to 20.

Claims

Machine (100) for attaching pockets (T) comprising:
- a template (1);

- a support (S) used to support said template (1); and

- moving means (C) used to move the support (S) in a longitudinal direction (A);
said template (1) comprising at least two separate portions (15, 16a, 16b), wherein at least one portion (16a, 16b) of said at least two portions of the template is a mobile portion (16a, 16b) that can move transversally, in such manner that the template can be in a maximum size configuration in transverse direction, which defines the dimensions of a piece of garment, and in a minimum size configuration in transverse direction in order to insert and extract the template into and from the piece of garment; said at least two portions (15, 16a, 16b) of the template being shaped in order to be inserted in the piece of garment; and
said machine comprises moving means (4) to move said at least one mobile portion (16a, 16b) of the template from a retracted position, wherein the template is in minimum size configuration, to an extracted position, wherein the template is in maximum size configuration,
characterized in that
said piece of garment is a pocket (T);
the template (1) defines the dimensions of the pocket (T) to be attached on a fabric (B), and the template (1) is supported by a support which is moved in a longitudinal direction (L) by moving means; and
the template (1) is shaped as a flat plate with low thickness,
wherein said template (1) is configured in such manner that, when it is in minimum size configuration, its maximum width is lower than the width of the opening (T4) of the pocket (T) and when said template (1) is in maximum size configuration, its maximum width is higher than the width of the opening (T4) of the pocket (T).
The machine of claim 1, comprising two mobile portions (16a, 16b) and one fixed portion (15) that cannot move transversally and is disposed between the two mobile portions, said mobile portions having internal longitudinal edges (17) and said fixed portion having external longitudinal edges (15a, 15b).
The machine of claim 2, wherein the fixed portion and the mobile portions are plates lying on the same plane and when the mobile portions (16a, 16b) are in said retracted position, the internal longitudinal edges (17) of the mobile portions are stopped against the external longitudinal edges (15a, 15b) of the fixed portion (15), when the mobile portions (16a, 16b) are in said extracted position, said internal longitudinal edges (17) of the mobile portions being spaced out from the external longitudinal edges (15a, 15b) of the fixed portion (15).
The machine of claim 2, wherein the fixed portion (15) and the mobile portions (16a, 16b) are in the form of parallel plates lying on different planes and when the mobile portions (16a, 16b) are in said retracted or extracted position, the internal longitudinal edges (17) of the mobile portions are overlapped to the fixed portion (15), either above or under the fixed portion (15).
The machine of any one of claims 3 to 4, wherein each mobile portion (16a, 16b) has a trapezoidal shape with increasing width getting away from said support (S).
The machine of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the moving means (4) comprise an actuator (41) that moves a lever mechanism (L) connected to said at least one mobile portion (16a, 16b); said lever mechanism (L) comprising:
- a rocker lever (44) pivoted with a pin (F) to the support (S) and having a first end (44a) connected to the actuator (41);

- a rod (45) connected to a second end (44b) of the rocker lever; said rod (45) being slidingly mounted on the support (S) along a longitudinal direction (A), and

- cranks (46a, 46b) connected to the rod (45) and to said at least one mobile portion (16a, 16b) of the template (1).
The machine of claim 6, wherein:
said support (S) comprises guiding slots (S2); each guiding slot (S2) being curved and comprising a proximal end (S2a) and a distal end (S2b),

each crank (46a, 46b) comprises a connection pin (5) connected to said mobile portion (16a, 16b) and sliding inside said guiding slot (S2) of the support.
The machine of claim 7, wherein each crank (46a, 46b) comprises a second pin (6) slidingly mounted in a second slot (S3) obtained on the support (S) of the template.
Process for attaching a pocket (T; T') with a machine (100) according to any one of the preceding claims, said process comprising the following steps:
- sewing a pocket (T; T') on a fabric (B) with seams (D1, D2) in correspondence of the opening (T5) of the pocket;

- preparing the template (1) in minimum size configuration, with the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template in retracted position;

- moving the template (1) in such manner to insert the template (1) in the pocket (T; T');

- moving the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template in such manner that the template (1) is in the maximum size configuration that defines the pocket size;

- folding the pocket (T) on the template,

- moving the mobile portions (16a, 16b) of the template in such manner that the template (1) is in the minimum size configuration;

- extracting the template (1) from the pocket.
The process of claim 9, comprising the following additional steps:
- placing the pocket (T) on the fabric (B) with a back edge (T8) of the pocket (T) faced towards the template (1),

- moving the template (1) in such manner that the template (1) enters the pockets (T) from the back edge (T8) of the pocket and comes out completely from an opening (T5) of the pocket (T), and

- turning the pocket (T) over by 180° in such manner to position the pocket (T) on the template (1).