EP3003503A1 - Soin cosmétique cutané - Google Patents

Soin cosmétique cutané

Info

Publication number
EP3003503A1
EP3003503A1 EP14702578.7A EP14702578A EP3003503A1 EP 3003503 A1 EP3003503 A1 EP 3003503A1 EP 14702578 A EP14702578 A EP 14702578A EP 3003503 A1 EP3003503 A1 EP 3003503A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
skin
gly
add
group
formula
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP14702578.7A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Daniela KEßLER-BECKER
Thomas Förster
Markus Semrau
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP3003503A1 publication Critical patent/EP3003503A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85—Polyesters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/045—Hydroxy compounds, e.g. alcohols; Salts thereof, e.g. alcoholates
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/16—Amides, e.g. hydroxamic acids
    • A61K31/164—Amides, e.g. hydroxamic acids of a carboxylic acid with an aminoalcohol, e.g. ceramides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/33—Heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K31/335—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin
    • A61K31/35—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom
    • A61K31/352—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom condensed with carbocyclic rings, e.g. methantheline 
    • A61K31/353—3,4-Dihydrobenzopyrans, e.g. chroman, catechin
    • A61K31/355—Tocopherols, e.g. vitamin E
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/23—Apiaceae or Umbelliferae (Carrot family), e.g. dill, chervil, coriander or cumin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/31—Brassicaceae or Cruciferae (Mustard family), e.g. broccoli, cabbage or kohlrabi
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/54—Lauraceae (Laurel family), e.g. cinnamon or sassafras
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/73—Rosaceae (Rose family), e.g. strawberry, chokeberry, blackberry, pear or firethorn
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/81—Solanaceae (Potato family), e.g. tobacco, nightshade, tomato, belladonna, capsicum or jimsonweed
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/88—Liliopsida (monocotyledons)
    • A61K36/899—Poaceae or Gramineae (Grass family), e.g. bamboo, corn or sugar cane
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/88—Liliopsida (monocotyledons)
    • A61K36/906—Zingiberaceae (Ginger family)
    • A61K36/9064—Amomum, e.g. round cardamom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00—Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/04—Peptides having up to 20 amino acids in a fully defined sequence; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/06—Tripeptides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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    • A61K38/04—Peptides having up to 20 amino acids in a fully defined sequence; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/07—Tetrapeptides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00—Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/04—Peptides having up to 20 amino acids in a fully defined sequence; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/08—Peptides having 5 to 11 amino acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00—Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/16—Peptides having more than 20 amino acids; Gastrins; Somatostatins; Melanotropins; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K38/17—Peptides having more than 20 amino acids; Gastrins; Somatostatins; Melanotropins; Derivatives thereof from animals; from humans
    • A61K38/1767—Peptides having more than 20 amino acids; Gastrins; Somatostatins; Melanotropins; Derivatives thereof from animals; from humans from invertebrates
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K45/00—Medicinal preparations containing active ingredients not provided for in groups A61K31/00 - A61K41/00
    • A61K45/06—Mixtures of active ingredients without chemical characterisation, e.g. antiphlogistics and cardiaca
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/30—Macromolecular organic or inorganic compounds, e.g. inorganic polyphosphates
    • A61K47/34—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polyesters, polyamino acids, polysiloxanes, polyphosphazines, copolymers of polyalkylene glycol or poloxamers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/678—Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/0012—Galenical forms characterised by the site of application
    • A61K9/0014—Skin, i.e. galenical aspects of topical compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

  • the invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for skin treatment.
  • the aging process is characterized by a progressive transfer of skin cells from a proliferative status to a resting, senescent status. This transition corresponds to aging at the cellular level, to which much of the macroscopic aging effects can be attributed. Visible signs are increased wrinkling associated with a change in the upper and lower layers of the skin at the microscopic level. Aged skin is also considered to be particularly vulnerable to external stressors such as UV light.
  • the typical signs of skin aging are based on biological processes such as altered cell physiology regulation and decreased levels
  • a first subject of the present application is therefore a cosmetic or dermatological topical compositions containing in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier
  • Apple seed extract and / or
  • R and R 2 independently of one another represent an OH group, a methoxy group or a CF 3 CH 2 0 group and R 3 and R 4 independently of one another represent a CC 4 alkyl group, in particular lipochroman-6 and or
  • xanthophylls in particular astaxanthin, and / or
  • Lactic acid bacteria-based fermentations and / or
  • Methyl butyrate and its derivatives and / or
  • a first essential component of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the polylactic acid particles a).
  • the use of polylactic acid particles in cosmetics is known for example from the international patent applications WO 2012/177615 A1 and
  • the proportion by weight of polylactic acid particles a) in the total weight of cosmetic compositions according to the invention is preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.75 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 8 wt .-%.
  • Polylactic acid also called polylactide or PLA
  • PLA is a term for biodegradable polymers (polyesters), which are mainly accessible by the ionic polymerization of lactide, an annular combination of two lactic acid molecules.
  • Lactic acid are produced. In industrial production, however, the disposal of the
  • the lactic acid (2-hydroxypropanoic acid) has an asymmetric carbon atom, so that the polylactic acid also has optically active centers in L (+) and D (-) configuration.
  • the ratio of L to D monomer units determines the degree of crystallinity, the melting point and the biodegradability of the polymers.
  • Polylactic acids suitable according to the invention are L-polylactic acid, D-polylactic acid and L / D-polylactic acid and mixtures thereof. Because of its very good biodegradability, L-polylactic acid is particularly preferred. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the weight fraction of L-lactic acid monomer units in the polylactic acid is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 80% by weight and in particular greater than 90% by weight.
  • the molar mass of the polylactic acid suitable according to the invention is preferably from 1000 to 1 000 000, preferably from 10 000 to 300 000, more preferably from 50 000 to 250 000 and in particular from 100 000 to 180 000 daltons.
  • the polylactic acid is used in a form veneered with fillers.
  • fillers The use of larger amounts of filler helps to comminute the polymer into particles, increases biodegradability and internal specific surface area through porosity and capillarity.
  • water-soluble fillers are particularly preferred, such as metal chlorides such as NaCl, KCl, etc., metal carbonates such as Na 2 C0 3, NaHC0 3, etc., metal sulfates such as MgS0. 4
  • fillers and natural raw materials can be used, for example, nut shells, wood or bamboo fibers, starch, xanthan gum, alginates, dextran, agar, etc. These fillers are biological degradable and do not degrade the good ecological properties of polylactic acid particles.
  • the content of biodegradable fillers in the polylactic acid particles can be from 10 to 70% by weight, with amounts of from 20 to 60 being preferred, and those of from 30 to 50% by weight being particularly preferred.
  • Polylactic acid particles which are suitable according to the invention can be present both in spherical form and as irregular particles which have a certain circularity.
  • the polylactic acid particles may preferably have a circularity between 0.1 and 0.6.
  • polylactic acid particles of lower circularity may be preferred if a less abrasive, gentler abrasive action of the cleaning agent according to the invention is to be achieved.
  • the shape of the polylactic acid particles used according to the invention can be defined in various ways, in the context of this preferred embodiment of the present invention, the geometric proportions of a particle and - pragmatic - a particle population are determined.
  • the polylactic acid particles used according to the invention preferably have sizes which, by their area equivalent diameter (ISO 9276-6: 2008 (E) section 7), are also called "Equivalent Circle Diameter ECD" (ASTM F1877-05 Section 11 .3.2
  • the mean ECD of a particle population is calculated as the average ECD of each individual particle of a particle population of at least 10,000 particles, preferably more than 50,000 particles, more preferably more than 100,000 particles, after particles with one particle size Area equivalent diameter (ECD) below 10 [im were excluded from the measurement.
  • the polylactic acid particles have average ECD values of from 10 to 1000 [im, preferably from 50 to 500 [im, more preferably from 100 to 350 [im and in particular from 150 to 250 [im.
  • cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the polylactic acid particles have absolute particle sizes of from 1 to 1000 ⁇ m, more preferably from 1 to 850 ⁇ m, particularly preferably from 1 to 750 ⁇ m, very preferably from 1 to 500 ⁇ m [im and particularly preferably from 1 to 300 [im have.
  • form descriptors are used, which are calculations from geometric descriptors or form factors.
  • Form factors are relationships between two different geometric properties, which in turn
  • Proportions of an ideal geometric body enclosing the particle are.
  • meso-form descriptors are used for particle characterization. These meso shape descriptors indicate to what extent a particle deviates from an ideal geometric shape, in particular from a sphere.
  • the polylactic acid particles may be of the typical spherical or spherical shape such as
  • Differ granulate particles (see above).
  • the particles preferably have sharp corners and edges and preferably have concave indentations.
  • Sharp corners of non-spherical particles may be defined by a radius of less than 20 [im, preferably less than 8 [im, and especially less than 5 [im, where the radius is defined as the radius of an imaginary circle following the contour of the comer.
  • Circularity is a quantitative 2-dimensional image analysis and can be determined according to ISO 9276-6: 2008 (E) section 8.2. Circularity is a preferred meso-form descriptor and can be determined, for example, with the "Occhio Nano 500 Particle Characterization Instrument” described above with the "Callistro version 25" software (Occhio sa vide, Belgium) or with the "Malvern Morphologi G3". Circularity is sometimes described in the literature as the difference between a particle and the perfect sphere.
  • polylactic acid particles having an average circularity C of from 0.1 to 0.6, preferably from 0.15 to 0.4, and in particular from 0.2 to 0.35, have been described in the context of the present invention proved particularly suitable.
  • the mean values are obtained by quotient formation from volume-based measurements and number-based measurements.
  • Solidity is a quantitative 2-dimensional image analysis and can be determined according to ISO 9276-6: 2008 (E) section 8.2. Solidity is also a preferred meso-form descriptor and can be determined, for example, with the "Occhio Nano 500 Particle Characterization Instrument” described above using the "Callistro version 25" software (Occhio, supra, Med, Belgium) or "Malvern Morphologi G3". Solidity is a meso-form descriptor that describes the concavity of a particle or particle aggregate. The values for solidity vary between 0 and 1, where 1 describes a non-concave particle:
  • Solidity A / Ac where A is the (image) area of the particle and Ac is the area of the convex hull enclosing the particle.
  • polylactic acid particles having an average solidity of from 0.4 to 0.9, preferably from 0.5 to 0.8 and especially from 0.55 to 0.65 have been found to be particularly useful in the present invention proved.
  • the mean values are obtained by quotient formation from volume-based measurements and number-based measurements.
  • Particularly preferred polylactic acid particles of the first preferred embodiment preferably have an average circularity C of from 0.1 to 0.6, preferably from 0.15 to 0.4 and in particular from 0.2 to 0.35 and an average solidity of 0, 4 to 0.9, preferably from 0.5 to 0.8 and in particular from 0.55 to 0.65.
  • the "mean" circularities and solidities are averages from the measurement of a large number of particles, usually more than 10,000 particles, preferably more than 50,000 particles, and especially more than 100,000 particles, with particles of area equivalent diameter (ECD) below 10 ⁇ were excluded from the measurement.
  • the polylactic acid polymer After its preparation, the polylactic acid polymer can be converted to the desired particle size and shape, for example by milling, depending on which mold is needed for which purpose.
  • a particularly preferred process for preparing polylactic acid particles of desired circularity and solidity is to produce a foam of polylactic acid and subsequent grinding.
  • the polylactic acid particles may further be advantageous for the polylactic acid particles to cure from 3 to 50 kg / mm 2 , preferably from 4 to 25 kg / mm 2 and especially from 5 to 15 kg / mm 2 on the HV Vickers hardness scale.
  • the hardness of the particles can be varied by the ratio of D to L monomers and the molecular weight.
  • Polylactic acid particles that can be used with preference in the inventive cleaning compositions are commercially available (for example, by the company Micro Powders, Inc. under the trade names Ecosrub ®). Particularly preferred are the commercial products Ecosrub ® 20PC, 50PC Ecosrub ®, Ecosrub ® 100PC, Ecoblue ® 5025 and Ecogreen ® 5025. Particularly preferred Ecosrub ® 20PC and Ecosrub ® 50PC are.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise a nourishing "anti-aging" active ingredient b)
  • Preferred compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, a proportion by weight of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight. -%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-% of the active ingredient b).
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, a) 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.75 to 10% by weight. and in particular 1 to 8 wt .-% polylactic acid particles, and b) 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-% of at least one active ingredient from the Group b) included.
  • compositions have proven to be particularly advantageous in which the active ingredient b) is selected from the group
  • Particularly preferred oligomers of amino acids, NC 2 -C 2 4-acylamino acids and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances are selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which are N-acylated and / or can be esterified, particularly preferably from
  • Tyr-Arg and its N-acylated derivatives in particular N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester, - Gly-His-Lys and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys,
  • Gly-His-Arg and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg,
  • Lys-Val-Lys and its N-acylated derivatives in particular Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys,
  • Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin), Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg,
  • Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser,
  • Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives in particular N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly,
  • plant preparations in particular pressed juices and extracts, from Quassia Amara are used with particular preference.
  • the pressed juices or extracts of herb (the above-ground parts of plants) and / or root of Quassia Amara are preferably obtained.
  • the pressed juices are preferably obtained by mechanical pressing.
  • An extract in the sense of the present application is a substance or substance mixture which has been obtained by extraction and partial or complete evaporation of the extraction solution.
  • a distinction is made according to the nature of dry extracts ie extracts evaporated to dryness, ie extracts made with solvents so that at most 2 parts of fluid extract are obtained from one part of the drug, viscous extracts or thick extracts, ie extracts in which a part of the solvent is evaporated.
  • the extracts or pressed juices used in accordance with the invention can be obtained from the harvest-fresh plants, but also from stored goods.
  • the extracts may be prepared with water, as well as polar or nonpolar organic solvents, as well as mixtures thereof in a manner known to those skilled in the art.
  • the extracts used according to the invention are obtained by extraction, preferably with organic solvents, water or mixtures thereof.
  • organic solvents are ketones (e.g., acetone), ethers, esters, alcohols, or halogenated hydrocarbons. Especially preferred
  • Extractants are water and / or alcohols.
  • alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, both as the sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Particularly preferred extractants are water, ethanol, 2-propanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, very particularly preferably water, ethanol, 2-propanol and 1, 2-propylene glycol and mixtures thereof, for.
  • a mixture 2-propylene glycol / water in the ratio 4: 1. Extracts that can be obtained by extraction with ethanol or water / ethanol mixtures and press juice are especially preferred.
  • extracts both in the original extractant and extracts / compressed juice in water or other organic solvents and / or mixtures thereof, in particular ethanol and ethanol / water mixtures.
  • extracted or pressed material is used as a solid to which the solvent (in particular as gently as possible) was removed.
  • those extracts / compressed juices to which the solvent has been partly removed, so that a thickened extract / compressed juice is used.
  • pressed juices from fresh Quassia Amara are used in solid form.
  • the extraction is preferably carried out at a temperature of 25 ° C to 90 ° C.
  • the active substance mixture to be used according to the invention preferably the plant preparations, to be characterized in that the extract or the compressed juice contains at least one polar solvent selected from ethanol.
  • ethanol Propanol, 2-propanol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, glycerol and water, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable solubilizers are, for. B. Ethoxylation products of optionally hydrogenated vegetable and animal oils.
  • Preferred solubilizers are ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides of C8-22 fatty acids having from 4 to 50 ethylene oxide units, e.g. Hydrogenated ethoxylated castor oil, olive oil ethoxylate, almond oil ethoxylate, mink oil ethoxylate,
  • the dry matter of the extract or the press juice is dependent on the molecular weight and the solubility of the dispersed ingredients and is usually 1 to 80 wt .-%, in each case based on the weight of the extract or the press juice.
  • the dry matter is 15 to 50 wt .-% and particularly preferably 20 to 35 wt .-%.
  • a dry matter of 1 to 20 wt .-% is preferred and a
  • Dry matter of 1 to 10 wt .-% be particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that the dry matter of the extract or of the pressed juice is 5-80% by weight, based on the weight of the extract or of the compressed juice.
  • compositions according to the invention contain the active ingredient combination a) and b) in a suitable cosmetic carrier.
  • a topical carrier which is preferably an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • the support contains - based on its total weight - at least 20 wt .-%, more preferably at least 25 wt .-%, more preferably at least 30 wt .-% and in particular at least 35 wt .-% water.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized by a water content of between 30 and 90% by weight, preferably 40 to 80% by weight, more preferably 50 to 70% by weight and in particular 55 to 65% by weight.
  • the cosmetic carrier may contain from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 35% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 30% by weight, of at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, Propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1, 2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols.
  • at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, Propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions contain 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, and in particular 2 to 8 wt .-% of at least one polyol selected from Glycerol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, 1, 6-hexanediol, wherein the amounts are based on the weight of the cosmetic compositions.
  • Particularly suitable emulsions according to the invention preferably comprise at least one further skin-conditioning agent e) and / or at least one emulsifier d) in addition to the active substances already described.
  • Suitable skin-conditioning active ingredients c) are preferably those substances which are applied to keratinic materials, in particular to the skin, and which
  • Conditioners smooth the top layer of the skin and make it soft and supple. Through the choice of conditioning agents (greasy - less greasy, fast or slow spreading, quickly or slowly absorbed into the skin and so on), the skin feel of the entire product can be adjusted.
  • Preferred skin conditioning agents c) can be selected from fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z.
  • di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl-n-octyl ether fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C 8 . 30- fatty acids, fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched
  • Fatty alcohols having 4-30 carbon atoms which may be ethoxylated with 1-75, preferably 5-20 ethylene oxide units and / or propoxylated with 3-30, preferably 9-14 propylene oxide units, ester oils, ie esters of C 6 . 30 fatty acids with C 2 -3o-fatty alcohols,
  • Hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC), mono, - di- and Trifettklastern of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, which may be ethoxylated with 1-10, preferably 7-9 ethylene oxide units, for. B.
  • dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate
  • PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate waxes, especially insect waxes, plant waxes, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides gesaettigter and optionally hydroxylated Ci 6 _ 30 fatty acids, eg. Hardened triglyceride fats, phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, shea butter,
  • compositions of the invention contain a mixture of skin conditioning agents from the aforementioned list.
  • Compositions is preferably 1 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 3 to 40 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5 to 50 wt .-% and in particular 10 to 30 wt .-% of at least one
  • Skin conditioning agent c wherein the amounts are based on the weight of the cosmetic compositions.
  • Suitable surface-active substances and / or emulsifiers d) are, for example, addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear C 8 -C 22 -fatty alcohols, at C 1 2 -C 22 fatty acids and C 8 -C 5 alkyl phenols, C 2 -C 22 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto C 3 -C 6 polyols, in particular glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters,
  • Fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, wherein degrees of oligomerization of 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component, for example those under the INCI name Coco Glucoside known product, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, eg.
  • As the commercially available products Montanov ® 68 and Montanov ® 202 addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols 3-6
  • sterols Carbon atoms with saturated C 8 -C 22 fatty acids, sterols (sterols), in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol and mycosterols,
  • Phospholipids especially glucose phospholipids, fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives, preferably polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (Commercial product Dehymuls PGPH) and polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (commercial product Lameform TGI) as well as linear and branched C 8 -C 30 fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • sorbitol sorbitol
  • polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives preferably polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (Commercial product Dehymuls PGPH) and polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (commercial product Lameform TGI) as well as linear and branched C 8 -C 30 fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts
  • particularly preferred O / W emulsifier system comprises a mixture of
  • Dipotassium monocetyl phosphate and potassium dicetyl phosphate with hardened palm oil glycerides A corresponding mixture is obtainable from Symrise as a commercial product "Emulsiphos 677660" (INCI: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides) .
  • Preferred compositions of the invention contain, based on their total weight, 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 1, 5 wt .-% of a nonethoxylated anionic O / W emulsifier, preferably a mixture of dipotassium monocetyl phosphate and potassium dicetyl phosphate with hardened palm oil glycerides.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain the emulsifiers d) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition , contain.
  • compositions according to the invention are provided.
  • Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, ⁇ -bisabolol, ⁇ -lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z.
  • Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, ⁇ -bisabolol, ⁇ -lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. B.
  • Trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) are available from Solabia, Alginhydrolysaten as z. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, in particular phycosaccharides AI, are available from the company Codif, extracts of Bacopa Monniera, as described, for. B. under the trade name Bacocalmine available from the company Sederma, extracts from the Rooibos plant, as described, for. B.
  • Rooibos Herbasec MPE are available from the company Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferably the commercial product Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract”), available from Lanatech, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as z , B.
  • the skin-calming active ingredients e) are preferably in a total amount of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.
  • emulsions and / or aqueous gels are thickeners, for.
  • anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsaeure wherein the acidic groups may be wholly or partially present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt and at least one may be included nonionic monomer.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. These copolymers can also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are NS Sepigel ® 305, Simulgel ® 600, Simulgel ® and Simulgel EPG ® of the company SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked
  • Polyacrylic Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ®.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C 3 . 6- carboxylic acid or its anhydride and to 2-20% optionally substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated Ci 0 -3o-carboxylic acids, wherein the copolymer can be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents.
  • Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ® and Carbopol ® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).
  • compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol and 3,4-didehydroretinol.
  • Beta-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents according to the invention contain the vitamin A component preferably in amounts of 0.05-1
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a .:
  • Vitamin B-1 (thiamine)
  • Vitamin B-2 (riboflavin)
  • Vitamin B-3 Under this name are often the compounds nicotinic acid and
  • Nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide).
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin B-5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of the invention which can be used according to the invention
  • Panthenols are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, the
  • Panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and cationic panthenol derivatives Panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.
  • Vitamin B-6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • Palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially .alpha.-tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the common name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and Vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and / or H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention are preferably characterized by a high content of natural and / or biodegradable ingredients.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they contain 40 to 100% by weight, preferably 45 to 99% by weight, particularly preferably 50 to 97% by weight and in particular 60 to 95% by weight of active ingredients of natural origin are and / or are biodegradable, the amounts being based on the weight of the cosmetic compositions without the aqueous and alcoholic solvents contained in these compositions.
  • composition of some preferred cosmetic compositions can be seen from the following tables (in wt .-% based on the total weight of
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Amino acid oligomer 0.001 to 10 0.01 to 7.5 0.05 to 5.0 0.05 to 5.0 0.1 to 3.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1, 0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1, 0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Amino acid oligomer 0.001 to 10 0.01 to 7.5 0.05 to 5.0 0.05 to 5.0 0.1 to 3.0
  • Polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1, 0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Quassia Amara Extract 0.001 to 10 0.01 to 7.5 0.05 to 5.0 0.05 to 5.0 0.1 to 3.0
  • Polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1, 0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1, 0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Glycerol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1, 0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Amino acid oligomer 0.001 to 10 0.01 to 7.5 0.05 to 5.0 0.05 to 5.0 0.1 to 3.0
  • Polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1, 0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Quassia Amara Extract 0.001 to 10 0.01 to 7.5 0.05 to 5.0 0.05 to 5.0 0.1 to 3.0
  • Polyol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1, 0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Amino acid oligomer 0.001 to 10 0.01 to 7.5 0.05 to 5.0 0.05 to 5.0 0.1 to 3.0
  • Glycerol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1, 0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0
  • Polylactic acid particles 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 0 to 8.0
  • Quassia Amara Extract 0.001 to 10 0.01 to 7.5 0.05 to 5.0 0.05 to 5.0 0.1 to 3.0
  • Glycerol 0.1 to 20 0.5 to 15 1, 0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.0 to 8.0
  • Another object of the present application is the use of inventive compositions for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of human skin, in particular
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are distinguished by an unexpected nourishing and regenerating action.
  • Another object of the present application is therefore a non-therapeutic method for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of human skin, in particular the treatment and / or
  • compositions according to the invention can remain on the skin after the application ("leave on”) or be removed from the skin after a contact time ("rinse off”).
  • the exposure time of the latter products are preferably between 10 and 600 seconds, preferably between 20 and 420 seconds and in particular between 30 and 300 seconds.
  • the following skin creams were prepared (in% by weight):
  • Montanov 202 (INCI name: Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside), Seppic; Cetiol CC (INCI name: dicaprylyl carbonates), BASF; DC EL-8040 ID Silicone (INCI name: Isododecane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer); Dow Corning; Controx KS C (INCI name: tocopherol, hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate), BASF; Cetiol SB 45 (INCI name: Shea Butter), BASF; Betafin BP 20 (INCI name: Betaine), Finnfeeds Finland Oy; Tego Carbomer 140 (INCI name: Carbomer), Evonik; Ridulisse C GR (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Soy Protein), Silab; DSH-C N (INCI name: dimethylsilanol hyaluronate), exsymol; Phenonip ME (INCI name: phenoxyethanol,

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques, contenant dans un véhicule cosmétique ou dermatologique approprié a) des particules d'acide polylactique et b) au moins une substance active du groupe des monomères, oligomères et polymères d'acides aminés, des acides N-acylaminés en C2 à C24, des esters et/ou les sels métalliques physiologiquement acceptables de ces substances et/ou des extraits du groupe comprenant Quassia Amara, de l'aneth (Peucedanum Graveolens), de la groseille (Johannisbeere), de la cardamome (Elettaria cardamomum), du radis noir, du petit-houx, de la cannelle, de l'avoine (Avena sativa), de la pomme de terre, de la soie et de gomme Asea foetida et/ou de l'acide hyaluronique et/ou de l'extrait de pépins de pomme et/ou des phytohormones et/ou des isoflavonoïdes et/ou des phytostérols et/ou des triterpénoïdes et/ou des tocophérols, des 2,2-dialkylchromanes ou chromènes 6,7-disubstitués de formules générales (II) ou (III), dans lesquelles R1 et R2 sont indépendamment les uns des autres, un groupe OH, un groupe méthoxy ou un groupe CF3CH2O et R3 et R4 représentent, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, un groupe alkyle en C1 à C4, en particulier le lipochromane-6 et/ou l'acide ellagique et/ou l'ellagate et/ou le xanthophylle, en particulier, l'astaxanthine, et/ou des superoxyde-dismutases et/ou des fermentations à base de bactéries d'acide lactique et/ou de l'hexénoate d'éthyle et ses dérivés et/ou du méthylbutyrate et ses dérivés et/ou du décadiénoate d'éthyle et ses dérivés, se caractérisant par une action de soin cutané inattendue.
EP14702578.7A 2013-05-28 2014-02-03 Soin cosmétique cutané Withdrawn EP3003503A1 (fr)

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DE102009017612A1 (de) * 2009-04-20 2010-10-21 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Hautbehandlungsmittel gegen Hautalterung I
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US8968787B2 (en) * 2010-05-24 2015-03-03 Micro Powders, Inc. Composition comprising biodegradable polymers for use in a cosmetic composition
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