EP2906301B1 - Dispersions aqueuses de cire et compositions de coiffage les contenant - Google Patents

Dispersions aqueuses de cire et compositions de coiffage les contenant Download PDF

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EP2906301B1
EP2906301B1 EP13776511.1A EP13776511A EP2906301B1 EP 2906301 B1 EP2906301 B1 EP 2906301B1 EP 13776511 A EP13776511 A EP 13776511A EP 2906301 B1 EP2906301 B1 EP 2906301B1
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EP
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Prior art keywords
wax
hair
composition
weight
chosen
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP2906301A2 (fr
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Bradford Joseph PISTORIO
Jean-Thierry Simonnet
Jim Mitchell SINGER
Henri Samain
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority claimed from US13/651,751 external-priority patent/US20140105943A1/en
Priority claimed from US13/651,768 external-priority patent/US10626294B2/en
Priority claimed from US13/651,710 external-priority patent/US9408785B2/en
Priority claimed from US13/651,732 external-priority patent/US10413496B2/en
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP2906301A2 publication Critical patent/EP2906301A2/fr
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/044—Suspensions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to aqueous wax dispersions and methods of using these dispersions on various substrates. More particularly, the invention is directed to an aqueous dispersion comprising a solid wax particle, a surfactant mixture comprising a nonionic surfactant and an ionic surfactant, and water, and to a hair styling composition comprising it.
  • Consumer products such as cosmetics, personal care, and household products, as well as pharmaceutical and industrial products, employ ingredients that allow these products to form a film or coating on various substrates such as keratinous substrates (e.g., hair and skin), hard surfaces (e.g., wood and metal), and other non-keratinous substrates, (e.g., fabrics and articles).
  • keratinous substrates e.g., hair and skin
  • hard surfaces e.g., wood and metal
  • other non-keratinous substrates e.g., fabrics and articles.
  • Those ingredients which help form a film or coating on the surface of a substrate may be chosen from a variety of raw materials such as waxes, polymers, resins and oils.
  • products which employ these ingredients are designed to impart certain desirable properties such as shine, water resistance, transfer resistance, scratch resistance, color and a glazed appearance to a surface.
  • waxes are highly desirable in cosmetics and personal care products as well as in household/industrial products in order to provide properties such as shine, smoothness, and slipperiness to various types of surfaces, as well as a protective coating against external factors such as exposure to water or moisture and physical rubbing.
  • hair styling products which contain one or more of the above-mentioned ingredients can be used to impart shape or style to the hair and/or to help maintain a particular hair style.
  • Makeup cosmetic products which employ these ingredients are used to enhance the appearance of the skin, lips and eyelashes.
  • mascara products employ waxes and polymers which help shape or curl the eyelashes.
  • Sunscreen products and other cosmetics can also use these ingredients to provide a water-resistant film or coating on the skin and hair, and also to help maintain the appearance and condition of skin and hair upon exposure to extreme environmental conditions, for example, high or low humidity.
  • these ingredients can provide structure and texture to the products and a certain feel and texture to a substrate.
  • the effects of temporary styling products generally last for only a relatively short period of time.
  • the consumer has to either reapply a hair styling product and/or wash the hair again followed by a new application of the product and restyling the hair.
  • Permanent styling also has the drawback of having to treat the hair with permanent waving or straightening/relaxing chemical treatments which may damage the hair.
  • waxes are traditionally employed in a paste or pomade but may not be easily formulated in a spray or foam product, particularly at a concentration that will be sufficient to impart the desirable attributes obtained from a wax ingredient.
  • the type of wax may also affect the stability and dispersion of the wax particles in the formulation since wax particles could agglomerate. Certain waxes may also result in an undesirable rough texture and/or sticky and tacky feel of the product and/or to the treated substrate.
  • waxes are first melted and then blended with oils, plasticizers, clays and/or any other additives. In other words, formulating with waxes still poses a challenge with respect to optimizing the benefits that can be obtained from the wax or waxes themselves.
  • ingredients such as waxes, polymers, resins and oils can be formulated into various galenic forms, and at the same time, optimize the benefits derived from these ingredients and enhance the performance of other ingredients.
  • shape memory polymers have been found to have the ability to change shape and therefore, provide certain materials made of such polymers with the ability to change their shapes or revert back to their original shape upon deformation, particularly, when an external stimuli such as heat or light is applied; SMPs may be used in packaging films, fabrics and medical devices ( Marc Biehl and Andreas Lendlein (2007). Shape Memory Polymers, Materials Today. 10 (4), pp. 20-28 ).
  • SMPs are typically complex polymer systems which may pose challenges in synthesis procedures and formulation in terms of the choice of solvents and delivery/galenic form.
  • polymers may still result in sticky formulas, may be difficult to formulate into a stable dispersion as a result of compatibility issues with surfactants, and do not necessarily provide a long lasting coat or film or the ability to easily re-style or re-position the hair without reapplying a product, for example.
  • US7871600 , US6066316 , JP2003012478 , US20060292095 and US20060263438 teach the preparation of wax and oil dispersions in hair cosmetic compositions.
  • US7871600 teaches the use of a wax dispersion in a hair styling composition.
  • said composition additionally requires a styling polymer and a relatively high amount of wax of from 30% to 45% by weight of the composition.
  • US6066316 discloses fine wax dispersions containing wax, an amphoteric surfactant and a nonionic surfactant where the size of the wax particles is about 30 nm and the nonionic surfactant is directed towards a specific class, i.e., polyoxypropylene alkyl ethers.
  • JP2003012478 teaches a hair composition with hair-remodelling properties comprising an oil soluble material, a nonionic surfactant and water; the oil soluble material contains fatty acid, higher alcohol and wax.
  • US20060292095 and US20060263438 disclose dispersions of oil particles calibrated to specific sizes and shapes; these particles are for use in sunscreen and skin care compositions. Nevertheless, the preparation of wax and oil particle dispersions and formulating with these dispersions in various galenic forms may still pose challenges, particularly since there are a number of factors to consider when working with wax and oil particles such as size, shape, hardness and melting point. Another consideration is the challenge of finding a convenient and easy way of optimizing the benefits that are delivered to substrates treated with such dispersions and compositions containing these dispersions.
  • a material comprising a wax that is, a wax dispersion comprising wax particles having certain physical properties, wherein the wax dispersion can be employed in various galenic forms. It is also an object of the present invention to provide a novel way of imparting certain desirable properties to the surface of a substrate using said wax dispersion and/or compositions containing the wax dispersion.
  • Another subject of the present invention is a hair styling composition
  • a hair styling composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of the invention, in order to help maintaining the shape of hair or to re-position/re-style the hair without reapplication of product, to provide humidity resistance and impart other desirable properties to hair such as shine, conditioning, softness and combability as well while having good aesthetic features.
  • the present invention relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising:
  • composition which is a hair styling composition
  • the present invention relates also to a method of coating hair, the method comprising:
  • the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • Wax as used herein means a hydrocarbon material, natural or synthetic, and having a melting point in the ranges disclosed below. Polymers and copolymers are included in this definition. Wax as used herein may also include a material composed of several components, including wax esters such as those derived from carboxylic acids and fatty alcohols, wax alcohols, and hydrocarbons.
  • Film former or “film forming agent” as used herein means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the hair to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed into and/or dissipated on the hair.
  • Substituted means comprising at least one substituent.
  • substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as acyloxyalky groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine or amino groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups.
  • the substituent(s) may be further substituted.
  • salts and derivatives thereof is intended to mean all salts and derivatives comprising the same functional structure as the compound they are referring to, and that have similar properties.
  • applying a composition onto hair and variations of this phrase are intended to mean contacting the hair, with at least one of the compositions of the invention, in any manner.
  • formed from means obtained from chemical reaction of, wherein “chemical reaction,” includes spontaneous chemical reactions and induced chemical reactions.
  • the phrase “formed from,” is open ended and does not limit the components of the composition to those listed.
  • stable means that the composition does not exhibit phase separation and/or crystallization.
  • treat refers to the application of the aqueous dispersion and compositions containing the dispersion onto the surface of a substrate.
  • shaping includes styling or placing hair, in a particular arrangement, form or configuration; or altering the curvature of hair; or re-positioning hair to a different arrangement, form or configuration.
  • compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
  • the solid wax particles of the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure can be prepared in a controlled manner by using a surfactant mixture that employs a combination of a nonionic surfactant and an ionic surfactant and following an emulsification process.
  • a surfactant mixture that employs a combination of a nonionic surfactant and an ionic surfactant and following an emulsification process.
  • a fine dispersion of micron-sized wax particles of a narrow particle size distribution and with minimal coalescence or agglomeration can be obtained.
  • the solid wax particles in the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure are advantageously substantially homogeneous with respect to their shape.
  • the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure is formulated into compositions of various galenic forms such as gels, mousses, lotions, creams, pastes, ointments, sprays and foams. It was found that when the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure was added into one of these galenic forms, the solid wax particles remained homogeneously and finely dispersed in the composition and said composition is stable even during storage and exhibits no agglomeration or precipitation of the solid wax particles. Moreover, the resulting composition exhibits reduced or minimized stickiness or tackiness that is generally attributed to the use of waxes.
  • compositions containing the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure can be applied onto hair to form a film or coating on the surface of hair.
  • compositions containing the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure also impart a clean and natural feel on the hair, despite the presence of wax.
  • compositions containing the aqueous dispersion impart a coating or film onto hair
  • said compositions may easily be removed from the hair by washing with water or with conventional cleansing agents.
  • the solid wax particles melt or soften, thereby allowing for the film or coating to be re-positioned on the hair and/or to adhere better to the hair.
  • the at least one solid wax particle of the aqueous dispersion has a particle size ranging from equal to or greater than 1 micron to 25 microns, or such as from 2 microns to 25 microns, or such as from 3 microns to 25 microns.
  • the particle size of the at least one solid wax particle in the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure may range from from microns to 25 microns, or such as from 5 microns to 12 microns, or such as from 5 microns to 10 microns.
  • particle size refers to the diameter of the particle.
  • the particle size refers to the largest diameter of the particles, i.e., the diameter in the dimension having the largest diameter.
  • the solid wax particles in the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure have a narrow particle size distribution, that is, the average difference in the particle sizes of the solid wax particles in an aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure is not more than 20 microns, or not more than 15 microns, or not more than 10 microns, or not more than 8 microns, or not more than 6 microns, or not more than 2 microns.
  • the shape of the solid wax particle may be spherical or ellipsoidal or oval.
  • the terms "spherical” or ellipsoidal” or “oval” as used herein also mean that the solid wax particle has a uniform and substantially spherical or ellipsoidal or oval shape.
  • the term "substantially” as used in the context of the shape of a spherical particle means that the particle is of substantially isotropic shape, i.e., it has a relatively regular morphology.
  • the ratio of the lengths of the longest to the shortest perpendicular axes of the particle cross section can be at 1:1 or at 1.5:1 or at 2:1 or at 3:1.
  • a line of symmetry is not required when the solid wax particle has a spherical shape.
  • the solid wax particle may have surface texturing, such as lines or indentations or protuberances that are small in scale when compared to the overall size of the solid wax particle and still be substantially spherical or ellipsoidal or oval.
  • the solid wax particles in the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure are preferably substantially homogeneous with respect to their shape and particle size distribution.
  • substantially as used in this context means that 50% or more of the solid wax particles in an aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure are of the same spherical, ellipsoidal or oval shape and of the same particle size.
  • the particle size, particle size distribution, and shape of the solid wax particle of the present disclosure may be evaluated by any known method such as those described in US patent application number 2006/0292095 , for example, laser diffraction, ultrasonic extinction (acoustic spectroscopy), photo cross-correlation spectroscopy, granulometry, and image analysis (optical microscopy).
  • the solid wax particles of the present disclosure have a melting point greater than 35°C, such as from between greater than 35°C to 250°C, or such as from between greater than 35°C to 120°C, or such as from between 40°C to 100°C.
  • the solid wax particles comprise at least one wax having a melting point greater than 35°C, such as from between greater than 35°C to 250°C or such as from between 40°C to 100°C.
  • the at least one wax having a melting point greater than 35°C is defined as having a reversible change of solid/liquid state.
  • the melting point of a wax in solid form is the same as the freezing point of its liquid form, and depends on such factors as the purity of the substance and the surrounding pressure.
  • the melting point is the temperature at which a solid and its liquid are in equilibrium at any fixed pressure.
  • a solid wax begins to soften at a temperature close to the melting point of the wax.
  • the wax With increasing temperature, the wax continues to soften/melt until at a particular temperature, the wax completely becomes liquid at a standard atmospheric pressure. It is at this stage that an actual melting point value is given for the material under consideration.
  • the liquefied wax material begins to solidify until the material is back in solid form.
  • the wax material By bringing the wax material to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to make it miscible with other materials such as oils, and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture.
  • the temperature of the mixture is brought to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax with the other materials in the mixture may be obtained.
  • the melting points of the wax(e)s and the solid wax particles of the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure may be determined according to known methods or apparatus such as by differential scanning calorimetry, Banc Koffler device, melting point apparatus, and slip melting point measurements.
  • the wax(es) which comprises the at least one solid wax particle of the present disclosure and have a melting point of greater than 35°C is chosen from waxes that are solid or semisolid at room temperature.
  • the wax(es) which comprises the at least one solid wax particle of the present disclosure may be chosen from waxes that have hardness values ranging from 0.001 MPa (Mega Pa) to 15 MPa, or such as from 1 MPa to 12 MPa, or such as from 3 MPa to 10 MPa.
  • the hardness of the wax may be determined by any known method or apparatus such as by needle penetration or using the durometer or texturometer.
  • the wax comprising the at least one solid wax particle of the present disclosure is chosen from natural and synthetic waxes.
  • Natural waxes include animal, vegetable/plant, mineral, or petroleum derived waxes. They are typically esters of fatty acids and long chain alcohols. Wax esters are derived from a variety of carboxylic acids and a variety of fatty alcohols. The waxes comprising the solid wax particle of the present disclosure may also be known as solid lipids.
  • waxes or solid lipids include C20-40 di- and triglycerides, including those which contain unsaturated fatty acids, C20-40 fatty alcohols, C2-40 fatty amines and their compounds, and sterols.
  • Particularly preferred waxes having a melting point of greater than 35°C are beeswax, commercially available from various suppliers, hydrogenated stearyl olive ester, and commercially available from the supplier Sophim under the tradename, Phytowax Olive 18 L 57, hydrogenated myristyl olive ester, and commercially available from the supplier Sophim under the tradename, Phytowax Olive 14 L 48, VP/eicosene copolymer, commercially available from the supplier ISP under the tradenames, Antaron ® V 220 or Ganex ® V 220F, and ditrimethyloylpropane tetrastearate, commercially available from the supplier Heterene under the tradename, HEST 2T-4S.
  • silicone waxes including silsesquioxane resin waxes such as C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl propylsilsesquioxane, commercially available as DOW CORNING SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax, from the company Dow Corning and such as those described in WO2005/100444 .
  • the wax(es) which comprises the at least one solid wax particle of the present disclosure have a melting point of greater than 35°C, or may range from 40°C to 100°C, or such as from 40°C to 80°C.
  • the wax(es) which comprises the at least one solid wax particle of the present disclosure may be chosen from soft waxes and from hard waxes.
  • Soft waxes may be defined as those waxes which have a melting point of below 70°C, and preferably, a melting point of below 60°C.
  • Hard waxes may be defined as those waxes which have a melting point of equal to or greater than 70°C, and preferably, a melting point of equal to or greater than 60°C.
  • soft waxes include, but are not limited to, Paraffin wax, stearic alcohol, ozokerite, synthetic beeswax, beeswax, candelilla wax, PVP/eicosene copolymer, hydrogenated jojoba wax, palm butter, sumac wax, polyglyceryl beeswax, tricontanyl/PVP, siliconyl beeswax, stearyl stearate, ceresin wax, hydrogenated myristyl olive esters (e.g., phytowax olive 14 L 48), hydrogenated stearyl olive esters (e.g., phytowax olive 18 L 57), Koster K82P, orange peel wax, Pentaerythritol distearate, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, silicone resin wax, Polymethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, Pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, Tetracontany
  • hard waxes include, but are not limited to, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, hydrogenated castor oil, wax AC 540, Hydroxyoctacosanyl Hydroxystearate, hydrogenated castor wax, wax AC 400, rice bran wax, C20-40 alkyl stearate, Alcohol polyethylene wax, octanedioate, sunflower seed wax, fischer-tropsch wax, Chinese insect wax, shellac wax, benehyl fumarate, synthetic wax, betsawax RX-13750, phytowax ricin 22 L 73, and vegetable wax.
  • the wax having a melting point of greater than 35°C and comprising the at least one solid wax particle of the present disclosure may be employed in an amount ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, or preferably from 15% to 60% by weight, or preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the aqueous dispersions of the present disclosure comprise solid wax particles having different properties with respect to hardness and/or melting point and/or shape and/or size.
  • the solid wax particle can further comprise additional ingredients such as waxes having melting points of 35°C or less, oils, emulsifying polymers, silicas, talc, clays, ceramides, and perfumes. These additional ingredients can be added during the time of making the aqueous dispersion in order to either improve/modify the physical properties of the solid wax particles and/or to allow the solid wax particles to provide other benefits in addition to the benefits obtained from waxes.
  • additional ingredients such as waxes having melting points of 35°C or less, oils, emulsifying polymers, silicas, talc, clays, ceramides, and perfumes.
  • Suitable additional waxes that may further comprise the solid wax particle are those waxes whose melting points are at 35°C or less; these waxes include, but are not limited to, Hest 2T-5E-4S, Ditrimethylolpropane tetralaurate, Koster BK-34, Fluoro Polymethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, Blend of Dilauryl Adipate and Ditetradecyl Adipate, Astrocaryum MuruMuru Seed Butter, Myrica Pubescens Wax, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, hydrogenated Coco-glycerides.
  • the waxes whose melting points are at 35°C or less are selected such that the resulting melting point of the solid wax particle of the present disclosure is greater than 35°C.
  • Suitable oils that may comprise the solid wax particle are non-volatile oils, including, but not limited to, mineral oils (paraffin); plant oils and natural oils (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, grapeseed oil, olive oil, argan oil, tocopherol or vitamin E, shea butter oil, jojoba oil, tocopherol or vitamine E oil); synthetic oils, for instance perhydrosqualene; fatty acids or fatty esters (for instance the C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoate sold under the trade name Finsolv ® TN, commercially available from Innospec or Tegosoft ® TN, commercially available from Evonik Goldschmidt, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate; esters such as tocopheryl acetate; and triglycerides, including capric/caprylic acid triglycerides); oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty esters and ethers; or fluoro oils, and polyal
  • oils include for example: silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; mixtures thereof.
  • silicone oils for instance volatile or non
  • suitable oils include, but are not limited to, hydrocarbon-based oils such as, for example, hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched C 8 to C 16 alkanes such as C 8 to C 16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopar TM or Permethyl ® , and their mixtures.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils such as, for example, hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched C 8 to C 16 alkanes such as C 8 to C 16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopar TM or Permethyl ® , and their mixtures.
  • esters such as those of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, and also including, for example, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C 12 to C 15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate, and pentaerythritol esters.
  • esters such as those
  • the oils may also be chosen from silicones.
  • Suitable silicones include, but are not limited to, the silicone oils described above and other silicones such as non-volatile silicones such as dimethicone fluids having viscosity values of equal to or greater than 300 cst, and pentaphenyldimethicone, also known as trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, commercially available from Dow Corning under the tradename Dow Corning ® 555.
  • the oil(s) that may further comprise the solid wax particle of the present disclosure is selected such that the melting point of the solid wax particle is greater than 35°C.
  • the ratio of oil to wax(es) ranges from between 1:100 to 20:100.
  • the solid wax particles of the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure may also comprise an emulsifying polymer, i.e. an amphiphilic polymer.
  • the emulsifying polymer(s) may be introduced in a content ranging from 0.1 percent to 15 percent by weight, or even from 0.1 percent to 10 percent by weight and more particularly from 0.1 percent to 5 percent by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous dispersion.
  • the solid wax particle may further comprise sub-micron-sized to micron-sized particles of silica, talc, and/or clays, which include, but are not limited to, montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, laponite, smectite, kaolin, and their mixtures.
  • silica talc
  • clays include, but are not limited to, montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, laponite, smectite, kaolin, and their mixtures.
  • These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary ammoniums, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazo lines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkylarylsulphonates, amine oxides and their mixtures.
  • quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 or Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst or Claytone 34, Claytone 40 or Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst or Claytone AF or Claytone APA by Southern Clay; or quaternium- 1 8/benzalkonium bentonites, such as those so ld under the names Claytone HT or Claytone PS by Southern Clay.
  • Suitable silicas may include pyrogenic silicas obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which exhibit a large number of silanol groups at their surfaces.
  • hydrophobic groups can be:
  • the pyrogenic silica preferably exhibits a particle size which can be sub-micron sized or micron sized, for example ranging from approximately 5 to 200 nm.
  • the silica, talc, and/or clays may be present in an amount of from 01% to 10% by weight, or preferably, from 0.5% to 2% by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous dispersion.
  • Ceramide compounds that may be useful according to various embodiments of the disclosure include ceramides, glycoceramides, pseudoceramides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the ceramides which may be chosen include, but are not limited to, those described by DOWNING in Arch. Dermatol, Vol. 123, 1381 - 1384 (1987 ), DOWNING in Journal of Lipid Research, Vol. 35, page 2060 (1994 ), or those described in French patent FR 2673179 .
  • ceramides that may be used according to various embodiments of the disclosure include, but are not limited to, compounds of the general formula (I): wherein, in formula (I):
  • R 18 and R 19 are, independently, chosen from alkyl- or alkenyl groups with 10 to 22 carbon atoms,
  • ceramide compounds may be chosen from compounds of formula (II), as described in US20050191251 and US20090282623 : wherein, in formula (II):
  • ceramides of formula (IV) may be chosen from those wherein R 1 is an optionally hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C 14 -C 22 fatty acids; R 2 is a hydrogen atom; and R 3 is an optionally hydroxylated, saturated, linear C 11 -C 17 , e.g. C 13 -C 15 radical.
  • ceramide compounds useful according to the disclosure may be chosen from compounds of the general formula (III): wherein, in formula (III):
  • Exemplary ceramides of formula (III) which may be chosen include compounds wherin R 1 is chosen from a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 6 -C 22 fatty acids; R 2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom; and R 3 is chosen from a linear, saturated C 15 group.
  • such compounds may be chosen from N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydro-sphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures thereof.
  • the product consisting of a mixture of these compounds, sold under the trade name Glycocer, by the company Waitaki International Biosciences, may be used.
  • ceramides As further exemplary ceramides, mention may be made of the following ceramides, as described in US20110182839 .
  • ceramide compounds useful according to the disclosure may be chosen from compounds of the general formula (IV): wherein, in formula (IV):
  • the at least one ceramide compound is chosen from cetyl-PG-hydroxyethylpalmitamide.
  • the at least one ceramide compound is chosen from propanediamide, N,N-dihexadecyl-N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl), such as that sold commercially as Questamide H or Pseudoceramide H by the company Quest International Australia Pty. Ltd.
  • the at least one ceramide compound is chosen from Cetyl-PG Hydroxylpalmatide/decyl glucoside/water, sold as SOFCARE P100H by Kao.
  • the at least one ceramide compound is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 percent to 20 percent by weight, for example, from 0.01 percent to 10 percent by weight and further for example, from 0.1 percent to 0.5 percent by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, the at least one ceramide compound may be present in an amount of 0.5 percent by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous dispersion.
  • the solid wax particle may further comprise perfumes or fragrances to aid in the fragrance of the product and provide a time-release effect.
  • the perfume can have a dual effect by not only providing a pleasant fragrance but also to provide shine to a treated substrate.
  • the perfumes may be present in an amount of from 0.01% to 10% by weight, or preferably, from 0.5% to 2% by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous dispersion.
  • the surfactant mixture (b) of the present disclosure comprises (i) at least one non ionic surfactant as defined below and (ii) at least one ionic surfactant comprising at least one specific anionic surfactant.
  • the nonionic surfactants used in the invention have a Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) of from at least 5, such as from 5 to 20, or such as from 5 to 15
  • HLB Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance
  • the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen from polyethylene glycol ethers of glyceryl esters, sorbitan esters, silicone-based emulsifying polymers having alkoxylated groups and/or side chains, and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic surfactants are disclosed in McCutcheon's "Detergents and Emulsifiers,” North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation ; and McCutcheon's "Functional Materials,” North American Edition (1992 .
  • polyethylene glycol ethers of glyceryl esters are PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl diisostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, and PEG-30 glyceryl oleate .
  • Preferable sorbitan esters are sorbitan esters of C 16 -C 22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids. Because of the manner in which they are typically manufactured, these sorbitan esters usually comprise mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters.
  • sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (e.g., SPAN ® 80), sorbitan sesquioleate (e.g., Arlacel ® 83 from Uniqema, Wilmington, Del.), sorbitan monoisostearate (e.g., CRILL ® 6 from Croda, Inc., Edison, N.J.), sorbitan stearates (e.g., SPAN ® 60), sorbitan trioleate (e.g., SPAN ® 85), sorbitan tristearate (e.g., SPAN ® 65), sorbitan palmitate (e.g., SPAN ® 40), and sorbitan isostearate. Sorbitan palmitate and sorbitan sesquioleate are particularly preferred for use in the present disclosure.
  • Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants of the present disclosure are chosen from polyethylene glycol ethers of glyceryl esters such as PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, and sorbitan esters such as sorbitan palmitate.
  • Nonionic surfactants are silicone- or siloxane-based emulsifying polymers having alkoxylated groups and/or side chains such as Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (tradename Abil ® EM 90); Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, commercially available in a mixture with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (tradename Abil ® Care 85); Bis-PEG/PPG-20/5 PEG/PPG-20/5 Dimethicone and PEG/PPG-25/4 Dimethicone, commercially available in a mixture with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (tradename Abil ® Care XL 80); Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, commercially available in a mixture with Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate and Hexyl Laurate (tradename Abil ® WE 09); Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl Lauryl Lauryl
  • (b) (i) is chosen from PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, sorbitan palmitate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG/PPG-20/5 PEG/PPG-20/5 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/4 Dimethicone, Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl Lauryl Dimethicone, Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonionic surfactant will typically be employed in an amount of from 60% to 95% by weight, or from 65% to 90% by weight, or from 70% to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the surfactant mixture of the present disclosure.
  • the ionic surfactants contain a lipophilic hydrocarbon group and a polar functional hydrophilic group.
  • the at least one ionic surfactant comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl sulfates and their salts, alkyl ether sulfates and their salts, acyl glutamates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and mixtures thereof.
  • anionic surfactants which may be used alone or as mixtures, may be mentioned: mention may be made especially of the salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as the sodium salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts or the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example of magnesium, of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and acylglutamates, the alkyl or acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms Among the anionic surfactants that may also be used, mention may also be made of polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylether-carboxylic acids, and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • the salts in particular the alkali metal salts such as the sodium salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts or the salts of alkaline
  • the salts in particular of sodium, of magnesium or of ammonium, of alkyl sulfates; of alkyl ether sulfates, for instance sodium lauryl ether sulfate, preferably containing 2 or 3 mol of ethylene oxide; of acyl glutamates, for instance, disodium stearoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate; of alkyl ether carboxylates; and mixtures thereof, the alkyl or acyl groups generally containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the anionic surfactants are chosen from disodium stearoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least ionic surfactant (b) (ii) may further contain at least one cationic surfactant.
  • cationic surfactants mention may be made of:
  • the aliphatic radicals are chosen, for example, from C12-C22 alkyl, alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals, containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C2-C6 alkyl sulfates and alkyl or alkylarylsulfonates.
  • the alkyl radicals R15 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
  • the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10.
  • R16 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R20, it may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R18 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R22, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R17, R19 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, n and p which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly equal to 2.
  • the anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate.
  • the anion X- may also represent methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid (such as acetate or lactate), or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.
  • the surfactants may be, for example, the salts (chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl radicals preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a plant oil, for instance palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart(R) by the company Cognis, Stepanquat(R) by the company Stepan, Noxamium(R) by the company Ceca, and Rewoquat(R)WE 18 by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.
  • quaternary ammonium salts and in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyl-dimethylammonium chloride and palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants are esterquats which are quaternary ammonium compounds having fatty acid chains containing ester linkages.
  • cationic surfactants mention may be made of compounds of formula (I) chosen from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, Behenyl PG-Trimonium chloride, dicetyl dimonium chloride, and mixtures, thereof.
  • cationic surfactants are esterquats chosen from Dibehenoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Dipalmitoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Ditallowoyl PG-dimonium Chloride, Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures, thereof.
  • the cationic surfactants are chosen from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the presence of an ionic surfactant reduces or minimizes the aggregation of the solid wax particles in the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure.
  • the surfactant mixture comprising at least one ionic surfactant acts as a dispersant to facilitate the uniform dispersion of the solid wax particles and to enhance the stabilization of the dispersion itself.
  • the surfactant mixture contains at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant comprising at least one anionic surfactant wherein the surfactant mixture is free of cationic surfactants.
  • the at least one ionic surfactant will typically be employed in an amount of from 5% to 40% by weight, or from 5% to 30% by weight, or from 5% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the surfactant mixture of the present disclosure.
  • the surfactant mixture that is, the combined amount of the at least one nonionic surfactant and the at least one ionic surfactant is present in the aqueous dispersion in an amount of from 1.0% to 5 % by weight, or such as from 1.5% to 3.5 % by weight, or such as from 1.5% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion.
  • silicone waxes are generally found to be more compatible with silicone based surfactants.
  • the surfactant mixture of the present disclosure is free of amphoteric surfactants.
  • Amphoteric surfactants include, but are not limited to, aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group, such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group; mention may also be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkyl-amido-(C6-C8)-alkyl-betaines or (C8-C20)alkyl-amido-(C6-C8)-alkylsulfobetaines; and mixtures thereof.
  • aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble
  • amphocarboxyglycinate compounds and amphocarboxypropionate compounds in particular, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid, (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylbetaines and alkylamphodiacetates.
  • the aqueous dipsersions of the present disclosure may also comprise at least one sunscreen agent.
  • sunscreen agents which comprise the aqueous dispersions and compositions of the present invention may be chosen from the organic and inorganic sunscreens or UV filters.
  • Non-limiting examples of the at least one sunscreen agent include anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; b,b diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264 ; p aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in patent applications US 5 237 071 , US 5 166 355 , GB 2 303 549 , DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119 ; benzoxazole derivatives such as those described in patent applications EP 0 832 642 ; EP 1 027 883 , EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844 ; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described especially in patent application WO 93/04
  • organic photoprotective agents mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:
  • Anthranilic derivatives Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • Imidazoline derivatives Ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazoli ne propionate.
  • Benzalmalonate derivatives Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name "Parsol SLX” by Hoffmann LaRoche
  • mineral photoprotective agents are chosen from pigments and even more preferably nanopigments (mean size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm and preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) of treated or untreated metal oxides such as, for example, nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form), of iron oxide, of zinc oxide, of zirconium oxide or of cerium oxide.
  • nanopigments mean size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm and preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm
  • treated or untreated metal oxides such as, for example, nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form), of iron oxide, of zinc oxide, of zirconium oxide or of cerium oxide.
  • the treated nanopigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64 , such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminium) alkoxides, poly ⁇ ethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen or elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, alumina or glycerol.
  • the treated nanopigments may more particularly be titanium oxides treated with:
  • titanium oxide nanopigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the elementary particles is between 25 and 40 nm, such as the product sold under the trade name "T805" by the company Degussa Silices, TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the elementary particles is 21 nm, such as the product sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3" by the company Cardre, anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane and for which the mean size of the elementary particles is 25 nm, such as the product sold under the trade name "Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic" by the company Color Techniques.
  • the uncoated titanium oxide nanopigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the trade names "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B", by the company Degussa under the name “P 25”, by the company Wackher under the name “Oxyde de titane transparent PW”, by the company Myoshi Kasei under the name "UFTR”, by the company Tomen under the name "ITS” and by the company Tioxide under the name "Tioveil AQ”.
  • the uncoated zinc oxide nanopigments are, for example:
  • coated zinc oxide nanopigments are, for example:
  • the uncoated cerium oxide nanopigments are sold under the name "Colloidal Cerium Oxide” by the company Rhone-Poulenc.
  • the uncoated iron oxide nanopigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names "Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", “Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ”, “Nanogard FE 45R AQ” and “Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)" or by the company Mitsubishi under the name "TY-220",
  • the coated iron oxide nanopigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names "Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345" and “Nanogard FE 45 BL” or by the company BASF under the name "Transparent Iron Oxide”.
  • the nanopigments may be introduced into the compositions according to the invention in unmodified form or in the form of pigmentary paste, i.e. as a mixture with a dispersant, as described, for example, in document GB A 2 206 339 .
  • One particularly preferred sunscreen agent of the present invention is octocrylene.
  • sunscreen agents of the present invention are chosen from Terephthalylidene dicamphor derivatives, benzylidenecamphor derivatives and benzotriazole derivatives, in particular, drometrizole trisiloxane, also known under the tradename of Mexoryl XL.
  • the sunscreen agent When the sunscreen agent is present, its amount ranges typically from 0.1% to 10% by weight, such as from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion.
  • aqueous dispersions of the present disclosure may also comprise volatile solvents.
  • the aqueous dispersions and compositions containing the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure form a film or coating on the surface of chair wherein the film or coating exhibited better adhesion as the volatile solvent evaporated over time and is resistant to water and/or rubbing.
  • the presence of the volatile solvent in the aqueous wax dispersion of the present disclosure helps to soften the wax and make it more pliable, thereby making it easier to apply on chair.
  • suitable volatile organic solvents include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and volatile silicone oils.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means oil containing only hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • Suitable volatile hydrocarbon oils include, but are not limited to, those having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched C8 to C16 alkanes such as C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopar or Permethyl, the C8 to C16 branched esters such as isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate and their mixtures.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oils have a flash point of at least 40 degrees centigrade. It is also possible to use mixtures of isoparaffins.
  • Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as petroleum distillates, can also be used.
  • Suitable volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature less than or equal to 6 cSt and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones being optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used include, but are not limited to, octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and their mixtures.
  • the volatile silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40 degrees centigrade.
  • suitable volatile solvents may be chosen from polar volatile solvents is desired.
  • Such solvents may include, but are not limited to, alcohols, volatile esters and volatile ethers. In general, they will have a flash point below 25 degrees centigrade.
  • a particularly preferred volatile solvent of the present disclosure is isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane) .
  • the volatile solvent When the volatile solvent is present, its amount generally ranges from 0.1% to 20%, and in some embodiments from 0.5% to 15%, and in some embodiments from 1% to 10%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous dispersion comprises:
  • aqueous dispersions of the present disclosure may be obtained by means of a process comprising at least the steps as follow:
  • the combination of ingredients in the first step of the process and the execution of the second step with heating are cumulative conditions necessary for obtaining the solid wax particles according to the invention in a controlled manner, resulting in solid wax particles that are calibrated to certain properties (e.g., melting point, size, and shape).
  • certain properties e.g., melting point, size, and shape.
  • the process according to the invention may, where appropriate, also include a step consisting in diluting the continuous phase of the mixture before the cooling step.
  • the expression "process leading to the production of solid wax particles” is intended to denote an action of shear type. This shearing action can be accomplished by mixing the wax-surfactant-water mixture using a homogenizer/mixer at a specified speed.
  • different particle sizes can be achieved such as those ranging from 0.5-100 microns, 1-50 microns, 2-25 microns, 8-20 microns, 2-10 microns, and even less than 1 micron. It is also possible to use other shearing processes such as those described and referred to in US2006/0292095 and US2006/0263438 .
  • the amounts and the types of surfactants in and/or the weight ratios of the surfactants to one another the surfactant mixture and/or the amounts and/or types of waxes employed may also result in wax particles of different particle sizes such as those listed above.
  • the emulsification temperature is preferably greater than 40 degrees C. and preferably less than 95 degrees C.
  • the dispersions of the present disclosure comprise solid wax particles that are calibrated to specific properties.
  • these particles are free of volatile solvent.
  • ingredients such as active ingredients, polymers, and other additional ingredients as described above may be added during the preparation of the dispersion.
  • the solid wax part particles are preferably obtained as a dispersion in a aqueous and/or water-soluble continuous phase.
  • a dispersion may also be described as an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion.
  • the solid wax particles in accordance with the invention advantageously do not aggregate in the dispersion in which they are obtained, and their granulometric specificities in terms of size and distribution index are advantageously conserved therein.
  • the aqueous and/or water-soluble continuous phase that is suitable for use in the invention preferably comprises water or a combination of water and a water-soluble organic solvent.
  • water-soluble solvents that may be used in the dispersions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, monoalcohols containing from 8+ carbon atoms, glycols, glycol ethers, and polyols, for instance glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, maltitol, and polyethylene glycol or mixtures thereof, C3 and C4 ketones, and C2-C4 aldehydes and mixtures thereof.
  • lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • monoalcohols containing from 8+ carbon atoms glycols, glycol ethers, and poly
  • water-soluble solvent is intended to denote a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility in water of greater than 50 percent by weight at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure).
  • the dispersions in accordance with the present invention may comprise demineralized water as the continuous aqueous phase.
  • the dispersions in accordance with the present invention may be used as vehicles for at least one active substance for the preparation of (a) cosmetic and/or dermatological and/or personal care and/or pharmaceutical composition(s).
  • compositions such as cosmetic or dermatological or personal care or pharmaceutical compositions, comprising at least one dispersion as defined above, and a carrier.
  • the invention relates to a hair styling composition
  • a hair styling composition comprising an aqueous dispersion according to the invention and at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • aqueous dispersions of the present disclosure is formulated into compositions of various galenic forms.
  • the aqueous dispersion is employed in a composition such that the amount of the at least one wax comprising the solid wax particle of the aqueous dispersion is from 1% to 5% by weight, or preferably, from 1.5% to 5% by weight, such as from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions containing the aqueous dispersions of the present disclosure comprise a carrier chosen from water, volatile and non-volatile organic solvents, silicones, polyols, glycols, glycol ethers, oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the volatile organic solvent generally ranges from greater than 0 (e.g., 0.01%) to 99%, and in some embodiments from greater than 0 to 55%, and in some embodiments from greater than 0 to 2%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the amount of volatile organic solvent does not exceed 55%.
  • the carrier is a cosmetically, dermatologically or physiologically acceptable carrier that is non toxic, wherein the compositions can be applied onto hair, .
  • the cosmetically, dermatologically or physiologically acceptable carrier may comprise water and/or one or more of the organic solvents, silicones, polyols, glycols, glycol ethers, oils.
  • the carrier can be employed in an amount of from 70% to 99% by weight, or such as from 75% to 95% by weight, or such as from 80% to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions comprising the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure may additionally contain an auxiliary agent chosen from liquid lipids/oils, film forming polymers, rheology modifiers, sunscreen agents, pigments, dyes, silica, clays, humectants and moisturizing agents, emulsifying agents, structuring agents, propellants, surfactants, shine agents, conditioning agents, cosmetically, dermatologically and pharmaceutically active agents, vitamins, and plant extracts.
  • an auxiliary agent chosen from liquid lipids/oils, film forming polymers, rheology modifiers, sunscreen agents, pigments, dyes, silica, clays, humectants and moisturizing agents, emulsifying agents, structuring agents, propellants, surfactants, shine agents, conditioning agents, cosmetically, dermatologically and pharmaceutically active agents, vitamins, and plant extracts.
  • Representative liquid lipids comprise oils, triglycerides and liquid fatty substances such as mineral oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rape seed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, chinese-wood oil, japanese-wood oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerol, glyceryl trioctanoate, pentaerythritol tetraoctanote, and glyceryl triisopalmitate.
  • mineral oil avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rape seed oil, egg yolk oil,
  • film forming polymer means a polymer capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a continuous film that adheres to a support and especially to keratin materials.
  • film-forming polymers that may be used, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof, in particular acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas and cellulose-based polymers, for instance nitrocellulose.
  • Representative rheology modifiers include, but are not limited to, thickening agents, and gelling agents.
  • the rheology modifier (s) that may be useful in the practice of the present invention include those conventionally used in cosmetics such as polymers of natural origin and synthetic polymers, including, but not limited to, associative polymers, non-associative thickening polymers, and water-soluble thickening polymers.
  • Representative rheology-modifiers that may be used in the practice of the present invention may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric polymers, including acrylate- or acrylic-based polymers, polysaccharides, polyamino compounds, and nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric amphiphilic polymers.
  • Sutiable rheology modifiers include but are not limited to, acrylates copolymers and carbomers.
  • Other suitable rheology modifiers include, but are not limited to, cellulose-based thickeners (e.g., hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cationic cellulose ether derivatives, quaternized cellulose derivatives, etc.), guar gum and its derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar, cationic guar derivatives, etc.), gums such as gums of microbial origin (e.g., xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, etc.), and gums derived from plant exudates (e.g., gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar gum and carob gum), pectins, alginates, and starches, crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acryl
  • the rheology modifiers of the present disclosure may also be used as film forming agents in the compositions and aqueous dispersions of the present disclosure, depending on the amount employed.
  • rheology modifiers of the present disclosure are polyacrylate-3, commercially known under the trade name of Viscophobe DB-100 and commercially available from The Dow Chemical Company, carbomers, commercially known under the trade name of Carbopol polymers and commercially available from Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, commercially known the trade names of Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 polymers and commercially available from Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc, AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer, commercially known under the trade name of Fixate G-100 polymer and commercially available from Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc and polyvinylpyrrolidone, commercially known under the trade name of PVP and commercially available from International Specialty Porducts.
  • the rheology modifier is typically present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in some embodiments from 0.1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Representative sunscreen agents which comprise the solid wax particle as described above may also comprise the compositions of the present disclosure.
  • the pigments and dyes, silicas and clays described above which may comprise the solid wax particle of the aqueous dispersion may also comprise the compositions of the present disclosure.
  • humectants and moisturizing agents include, but are not limited to urea, hydroxyethyl urea, polyols such as glycerin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).
  • glycosaminoglycans are hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan (HA), heparan sulfate (HS), heparin (HP), chondroitin, chondroitin sulfate (CS), chondroitin 4-sulfate or chondroitin sulfate A (CSA), chondroitin 6-sulfate or chondroitin sulfate C (CSC), dermatan sulfate or chondroitin sulfate B (CSB) and keratan sulfate (KS).
  • HA hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan
  • HS heparan sulfate
  • HP heparin
  • propellants include n-butane, isobutane, propane, dimethyl ether (available commercially from Harp Int'l under the tradename HARP DME), C2-C5 halogenated hydrocarbons, e.g., 1,1-difluoroethane (available commercially from DuPont under the tradename DYMEL 152a), difluoroethane, chlorodifluoroethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, trichlorofluoromethane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the propellant generally ranges from 1 to 55%, and in some embodiments from 1 to 35%, by weight, and in some embodiments from 1 to 20%, by weight and in some embodiments from 2 to 15%, by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the surfactants that may be employed as auxiliary agents may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants such as those described above.
  • the shine agents may be chosen from silicones, alkoxylated silicones, oils, ethoxylated oils, fats, esters, transesters, hydrocarbons, quats and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of shine agents include Amodimethicone, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Cyclemethicone, Phenyltrimethicone, Aminopropyl Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, Cetyl Dimethicone, Alkyl Dimethicone, Potassium Dimethicone PEG-7 Pantheyl Phosphate, Olive oil, Jojoba oil, Apricot oil, avocado oil, Castor oil, Lanolin, Squalane, Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride, Octyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Myristate, Mineral oil, Petrolatum, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-11, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Benetrimonium Chloride and mixtures thereof.
  • the aqueous dispersions of the present disclosure may additionally comprise one or more additives chosen from pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, fragrances, sequestering agents, softeners, antifoams, wetting agents, spreading agents, dispersants, plasticizers, mineral fillers, colloidal minerals, peptizers, preserving agents, and pH adjusters.
  • additives chosen from pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, fragrances, sequestering agents, softeners, antifoams, wetting agents, spreading agents, dispersants, plasticizers, mineral fillers, colloidal minerals, peptizers, preserving agents, and pH adjusters.
  • compositions comprising the aqueous dispersions of the present disclosure may be in the form of an aqueous system, a simple or complex emulsion (oil-in-water (o/w), water-in-oil (w/o), silicone-in-water and / or water-in-silicone emulsion types) such as a cream or a milk, in the form of a gel or a cream-gel, or in the form of a lotion, a powder or a solid tube, and may optionally be packaged as an aerosol and may be in the form of a mousse or a spray.
  • the mousse or spray may contain propellants such as those listed above.
  • Spray compositions typically contain at least one volatile organic compound (VOC).
  • VOC volatile organic compound
  • the organic solvents for instance ethanol and dimethyl ether, are partially replaced with water.
  • compositions of the present disclosure are emulsions, they will generally contain at least one emulsifier/surfactant chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic emulsifiers or surfactants, which are used alone or as a mixture.
  • the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained.
  • the subject compositions are formulated as water-in-silicone (W/Si) or silicone-in-water (Si/W) emulsions in which the continuous oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil.
  • the silicone oils are preferably present in a proportion of at least 5 percent and preferably ranging from 10 percent to 45 percent by weight with respect to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the fatty phase of the water-in-oil emulsions according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more hydrocarbon-comprising oil(s) in a proportion preferably ranging up to 40 percent by weight with respect to the total weight of the fatty phase of the emulsion.
  • examples of emulsifiers generally include polyether-modified silicones having a long chain of dimethyl siloxane units which carry polyethoxy-polypropoxy units in the chain and at the ends.
  • examples include cyclopentasiloxane PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, and PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning ® BY 11-030.
  • compositions of the present disclosure are applied onto hair
  • the hair styling compositions of the present disclosure are applied onto hair in order to impart a shape or re-positionability or re-shapeability properties to the hair.
  • the application of an external stimuli such as heat onto treated hair may be desirable or required in order to impart additional benefits to the treated chair.
  • a method of coating hair involves applying onto the hair, the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure and a carrier, and heating the hair in order to melt the solid wax particles in the aqueous dispersion.
  • the heat applied to the hair has to be at a temperature greater than the melting point of the solid wax particles or of the wax that has the highest melting point, if two or more waxes comprise the solid wax particle.
  • Another embodiment relates to a hair shaping method comprising the method of coating hair.
  • the hair may then be shaped or positioned to achieve a certain style or appearance.
  • the above-described method allows one to shape/re-shape or re-position the hair on the head, such as to straighten the hair, curl the hair, redefine hair curl, or volumize the hair, and to repeat the steps of said method as many times as desired and without needing to re-apply the composition and/or re-wet the hair.
  • a means for shaping the hair is used.
  • the means for physically shaping the hair may be part of the heating tool or may be a separate device or tool such as a brush or comb or curling device.
  • the means for physically shaping the hair may also comprise passing the fingers or the hand through the hair.
  • the steps of the above-described method for shaping hair may be conducted in any order.
  • the composition containing the aqueous dispersion may first be applied onto hair, followed by heating the hair, then followed by shaping the hair using a means for shaping the hair.
  • the hair may be heated first, followed by the step of applying the composition onto the hair, then followed by the step of shaping the hair using a means for shaping the hair.
  • the hair may be shaped first, using a means for shaping the hair, followed by applying the composition onto the hair and then heating the hair.
  • the hair may be shaped first using a means for shaping the hair, followed by heating the hair and then applying the composition onto the hair and allowing the shape of the hair to set in place as the temperature reaches room temperature.
  • compositions of the present invention may especially constitute hair styling/shaping, hair straightening, hair waving/curling, hair care, hair treatment, hair conditioning and hair shampoo products.
  • the heating tools can generate heat through electrical current or heating lamps. Depending upon the desired style, these tools include, but are not limited to, heaters, blow dryers, flat irons, hot combs, hot curler sets, steam pods, heated crimpers, heated lash curlers, heated wands/brushes, and hood driers or their combinations thereof.
  • compositions containing the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure are heat-activated in order to allow the compositions to provide additional benefits to hair which has been treated with the composition.
  • heat-activated means that heat is used as a stimulus to melt the solid wax particles in the aqueous dispersion.
  • the hair may be heated or exposed to heat before or after treating the hair with the composition containing the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure.
  • the hair may also be molded or shaped or positioned as desired while being heated or exposed to heat.
  • compositions containing the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure may especially constitute cosmetic, personal care, dermatological, pharmaceutical products such as hair color, hair styling, hair care and hair cleansing products, suncare, and makeup products.
  • compositions of the present invention can be provided in a plethora of galenic forms, including but not limited to creams, liquid, gel, cream-gel, lotion, foam, serum, paste, semi-solid, solid stick, stick-gel, or a powder, and may be in the form of a mousse or a spray, and may optionally be packaged as an aerosol, prepared according to the usual methods.
  • FIG. 1 shows the optical microscopic images of the exemplary beeswax dispersions in Table 1 above.
  • Table 2 Examples of aqueous dispersions containing phyto olive wax individually prepared according to the Wax Dispersion Protocol above Ingredient Aqueous Dispersions % weight of ingredient F G H I J K L M N O P AA 30 30 30 30 30 30 25 20 20 25 BB 2.7 2.5 2.3 2.1 1.3 1.1 2.5 2.5 2.0 1.0 2.5 CC - - - - - - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.25 0.5 DD 0.3 0.5 0.7 0.9 0.2 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.25 0.5 EE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 FF Q.S. to 100 Q.S. to 100 Q.S. to 100 Q.S. to 100 Q.S. to 100 Q.S. to 100 Q.S. to 100 Q.S. to 100 Q.S. to 100 Q.S.
  • miceroscopic images of the aqueous dispersions in Table 2 showed that aqueous dispersions of solid wax particles having different particle size ranges or distribution were obtained, depending on the amounts of the surfactants and/or wax and on the types of surfactants used.
  • the nonionic surfactant e.g., PEG-30 glyceryl stearate
  • another nonionic surfactant e.g., sorbitan palmitate
  • Example III Examples of formulations containing the aqueous dispersion
  • Formulas 1 and 2 below were individually prepared from an aqueous dispersion prepared according to the procedure described above and containing 30% beeswax, 2.7% of PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, 0.3% of disodium stearoyl glutamate and water (Q.S.) and adding an aliquot of the dispersion to the rest of the ingredients in Formula 1 or Formula 2.
  • Formula 3 was prepared from an aqueous dispersion prepared according to the procedure described above and containing 25% silicone wax, 2.7% of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, 0.3% disodium stearoyl glutamate, and water (Q.S.). An aliquot of the dispersion was added to the rest of the ingredients in Formula 3.
  • Table 3 Gel-Lotion/Pump Spray Formula 1 (formulated as a gel-lotion or as a non-aerosol spray) Ingredient % weight Beeswax Particles (average particle size 10 microns) 5 Polyacrylate-3 (23% active) 2 PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate 0.415 Phenoxyethanol 0.08 Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.083 Triethanolamine 0.2 Water Q.S.
  • Table 4 Mousse or (foam), Formula 2 (aerosolized) Ingredient % weight Beeswax Particles (average particle size 10 microns) 4.7 Polyacrylate-3 (23% active) 1.88 PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate 0.390 Phenoxyethanol 0.0752 Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.078 Triethanolamine 0.188 A-70 propellant 6 Water Q.S.
  • Gel Formula 3 (formulated as a gel-lotion or as a non-aerosol spray) Ingredient % weight C30-45 ALKYLDIMETHYLSILYL POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE (silicone wax) (average particle size 15 microns) 5.0 CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE 0.6 POLYACRYLATE-3 0.46 TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.2 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.08 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 0.02 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.083 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE 0.00003 PARAFFIN 0.015 Water Q.S. to 100
  • aqueous dispersion, C, in Table 1 and Formulas 1 and 2 in Tables 3 and 4 were applied onto hair in order to form a film or coating on the surface of hair.
  • Formulas 1 and 2 were tested on hair on the head of human subjects. After applying Formula 1 or Formula 2 with a comb or with the fingers onto dry or damp hair, the hair was heated using a blow drier after which the hair was styled/shaped as the temperature on the hair cooled down to room temperature. Upon cooling, it was observed that the formulas did not give a sticky or tacky feel to the hair. When more shaping and re-positioning of the hair was desired, the hair was heated again and the hair was re-positioned/re-shaped a different configuration without compromising the characteristics related to styling upon each application of heat the hair and without having to reapply the formulas onto the hair.
  • Example IV Table 6 - Examples of aqueous dispersions
  • wax dispersions were prepared; these dispersions contained beeswax at different amounts of 29, 28, 25 and 20 g and isododecane at different amounts of 1, 2, 5, and 10 g, respectively.
  • the mixtures were evaluated with respect to how soft the wax dispersion material became with increasing isododecane concentration. As the isododecane level increased, the wax dispersion material became softer, an attribute which provides better spreadability and feel of the wax dispersion on the hair.
  • Dispersions % weight of ingredient Ingredient A Octocrylene B Mexoryl XL Beeswax 28 28 Sunscreen Filter 2 2 PEG-30 glyceryl stearate (nonionic surfactant) 2.5 2.5 Disodium stearoyl glutamate (anionic surfactant) 0.5 0.5 phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.5 0.5 Deionized Water Q.S. to 100 Q.S. to 100 Speed of mixing 3000 3000 Solid wax particle size range ( ⁇ m) 2 - 12 2 - 20
  • Example VIII Formulations containing the aqueous dispersion
  • the aqueous dispersion can also be employed in a shampoo formulation as shown below.
  • Hair care (cleansing/conditioning) composition Formula 4 Ingredient % weight Beeswax Particles (average particle size 10 microns) 5.0 PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate 0.415 Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.083 Sodium laureth sulfate 8.0 Coco-betaine, Cocamide MIPA 5.1 Laureth-5 carboxylic acid 0.7 Silicone 0.6 Hexylene glycol, Propylene glycol 0.9 Polyquaternium-7 0.5 PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate 0.3 PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil 0.15 preservatives, plant extracts, pH adjusters and Water Q.S. to 100
  • the hair on the head of human subjects was shampooed with Formula 4 and rinsed. The hair was subsequently exposed to heat by blow drying. It was found that the hair could be shaped according to the desired style without having to apply any other styling or hair cosmetic composition onto the hair. It was also found that the formula provided a good curl hold/retention.
  • Hair styling composition containing phyto olive wax Formula 5 INCI Name % by weight POLYACRYLATE-3 0.46 TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.2 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.08 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 0.02 HYDROGENATED MYRISTYL OLIVE ESTERS (phyto olive wax) (particle size range of 2 - 10 microns) 5.0 SORBITAN PALMITATE 0.1 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.1 PEG-30 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.5 WATER Q.S. 100
  • Formula 5 above provided more shine and a sleek look to hair compared to a formula containing the beeswax aqueous dispersion (formula 1).
  • Hair styling composition containing ditrimethyloylpropane tetrastearate wax, Formula 6 INCI Name % by weight POLYACRYLATE-3 0.46 TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.2 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.08 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 0.02 DITRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TETRASTEARATE (particle size range of 5 - 20 microns) 5.0 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.083 PEG-30 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.415 WATER Q.S. 100
  • Formula 6 above provided improved styleability to hair, a tighter curl hold, more shape memory, more body and a sleeker look to hair compared to a formula containing the beeswax aqueous dispersion (formula 1).
  • Hair styling composition containing VP/eicosene polymer wax, Formula 7 INCI Name % by weight POLYACRYLATE-3 0.46 TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.2 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.08 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 0.02 VP/EICOSENE COPOLYMER (particle size range of 2 - 8 microns) 5.0 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.083 PEG-30 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.415 WATER Q.S. 100
  • Formula 7 above provided a tighter curl pattern to hair compared to a convention formula for curling or maintaining the curl of hair.
  • the effect of styling hair with a formula containing an aqueous dispersion of beeswax prepared according to the procedure described above was compared to that of styling hair with a conventional wax formula for styling hair.
  • the conventional wax formula was prepared using traditional methods of preparing a wax hair styling product wherein the wax is not pre-dispersed and is directly added to rest of the ingredients.
  • formula 8 When Formulas 8 and 9 were tested on the hair of human volunteers, formula 8 provided more root lift, volume, body and restyleability to the hair. Moreover, the hair dressers preferred formula 8 because it was less sticky on the hair, had a better feel on the hands, and provided better wettability to the hair.

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Claims (17)

  1. Composition comprenant
    - une dispersion aqueuse comprenant :
    (a) au moins une particule de cire solide ayant une taille de particule dans la plage de 1 micron ou plus à 25 microns et comprenant au moins une cire possédant un point de fusion supérieur à 35 °C, préférablement dans la plage de 40 °C à 100 °C ;
    (b) un mélange de tensioactifs comprenant :
    (i) au moins un tensioactif non ionique possédant une HLB d'au moins 5, et choisi parmi des éthers de polyéthylène glycol d'esters de glycéryle, des esters de sorbitane, des polymères émulsifiants à base de silicone possédant des groupes alcoxylés et/ou des chaînes latérales, et leurs mélanges; et
    (ii) au moins un tensioactif ionique comprenant au moins un tensioactif anionique choisi parmi des alkylsulfates et leurs sels, des alkyléthersulfates et leurs sels, des acylglutamates, des alkyléthercarboxylates, et leurs mélanges; et
    (c) de l'eau,
    - et un support qui est préférablement un support acceptable sur le plan cosmétique choisi parmi l'eau, des solvants organiques volatils, des solvants organiques non volatils, des silicones, des polyols, des glycols, des éthers de glycol, des huiles, et leurs mélanges,
    dans laquelle la cire, au nombre d'au moins une, est présente en une quantité allant de 1 % à 5 % en poids sur la base du poids total de la composition.
  2. Composition selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle la cire, au nombre d'au moins une, est choisie parmi la cire d'abeille, des esters de myristyle et d'huile d'olive hydrogénée, des esters de stéaryle et d'huile d'olive hydrogénée, un copolymère de VP/éicosène, le tétrastéarate de ditriméthyloylpropane et une cire de résine de silsesquioxane, tel qu'un (C30-45 alkyl)diméthylsilyl-propylsilsesquioxane.
  3. Composition selon la revendication 1 ou 2, dans laquelle la cire, au nombre d'au moins une, est présente en une quantité allant de 10 % à 80 % en poids, préférablement de 20 % à 40 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la dispersion aqueuse.
  4. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle la cire, au nombre d'au moins une, présente une valeur de dureté allant de 0,001 MPa à 15 MPa, préférablement de 3 MPa à 10 MPa.
  5. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle (a) a une taille de particule allant de 5 microns à 25 microns.
  6. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle (b)(i) est choisi parmi le stéarate de glycéryle PEG-30, le palmitate de sorbitane, la cétyl-PEG/PPG-10/1 diméthicone, la Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 diméthicone, la Bis-PEG/PPG-20/5 PEG/PPG-20/5 diméthicone, la PEG/PPG-25/4 diméthicone, la Bis-(glycéryl/lauryl) glycéryl-lauryl-diméthicone, la Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 diméthicone, et leurs mélanges.
  7. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle (b)(ii) comprend au moins un tensioactif anionique choisi parmi le stéaroylglutamate disodique et le stéaroylglutamate de sodium.
  8. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle (b)(ii) comprend au moins un tensioactif cationique, préférablement choisi parmi le chlorure de cétrimonium, le chlorure de béhentrimonium, le méthosulfate de dipalmitoyléthyl-hydroxyéthylmonium, le méthosulfate de distéaroyléthyl-hydroxyéthylmonium, et leurs mélanges.
  9. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle (b)(ii) est présent en une quantité allant de 5 % à 30 % en poids, préférablement de 5 % à 20 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de (b).
  10. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle (b) est présent en une quantité allant de 1 % à 3 % en poids, préférablement de 1,5 % à 3 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la dispersion aqueuse.
  11. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle (b) est exempt de tensioactifs amphotères.
  12. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle la dispersion aqueuse comprend en outre au moins un agent de protection solaire préférablement choisi parmi l'octocrylène, le drométrizole trisiloxane et leurs mélanges, en particulier en une quantité de 0,1 % à 6 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la dispersion aqueuse.
  13. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle la dispersion aqueuse comprend en outre au moins un solvant volatil comprenant préférablement l'isododécane, en particulier en une quantité allant de 1 % à 10 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la dispersion aqueuse.
  14. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle la cire, au nombre d'au moins une, est présente en une quantité allant de 2 % à 5 % en poids, sur la base du poids total de la composition.
  15. Utilisation de la composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle la composition est activée thermiquement.
  16. Procédé de revêtement de cheveux, le procédé comprenant :
    (a) l'application sur les cheveux, d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendication 1 à 14, et
    (b) le chauffage des cheveux afin de faire fondre la particule de cire solide au nombre d'au moins une.
  17. Procédé de mise en forme des cheveux comprenant le procédé selon la revendication 16.
EP13776511.1A 2012-10-15 2013-10-15 Dispersions aqueuses de cire et compositions de coiffage les contenant Active EP2906301B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US13/651,751 US20140105943A1 (en) 2012-10-15 2012-10-15 Aqueous wax dispersions containing sunscreen agents
US13/651,768 US10626294B2 (en) 2012-10-15 2012-10-15 Aqueous wax dispersions containing volatile solvents
US13/651,710 US9408785B2 (en) 2012-10-15 2012-10-15 Hair styling compositions containing aqueous wax dispersions
US13/651,732 US10413496B2 (en) 2012-10-15 2012-10-15 Aqueous wax dispersions
PCT/EP2013/071516 WO2014060405A2 (fr) 2012-10-15 2013-10-15 Dispersions aqueuses de cire et compositions de coiffage les contenant

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2906301A2 EP2906301A2 (fr) 2015-08-19
EP2906301B1 true EP2906301B1 (fr) 2022-09-07

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JP (1) JP6377064B2 (fr)
CN (2) CN110302073A (fr)
BR (1) BR112015003963B1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2928774T3 (fr)
WO (1) WO2014060405A2 (fr)

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US9408785B2 (en) 2012-10-15 2016-08-09 L'oreal Hair styling compositions containing aqueous wax dispersions
US10561596B2 (en) 2014-04-11 2020-02-18 L'oreal Compositions and dispersions containing particles comprising a polymer
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BR112015003963B1 (pt) 2020-03-17
CN104736203A (zh) 2015-06-24
WO2014060405A3 (fr) 2014-11-13
EP2906301A2 (fr) 2015-08-19
WO2014060405A2 (fr) 2014-04-24
BR112015003963A2 (pt) 2017-07-04
JP2015533180A (ja) 2015-11-19
ES2928774T3 (es) 2022-11-22
CN110302073A (zh) 2019-10-08
JP6377064B2 (ja) 2018-08-22

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