EP2505096A1 - Jewellery stone with chaton cut - Google Patents

Jewellery stone with chaton cut Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2505096A1
EP2505096A1 EP12001197A EP12001197A EP2505096A1 EP 2505096 A1 EP2505096 A1 EP 2505096A1 EP 12001197 A EP12001197 A EP 12001197A EP 12001197 A EP12001197 A EP 12001197A EP 2505096 A1 EP2505096 A1 EP 2505096A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
gemstone
angle
crown
facets
pavilion
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Granted
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EP12001197A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP2505096B1 (en
Inventor
Maik Froehlich
Karlheinz Eder
Günther Blasbichler
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D Swarovski KG
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D Swarovski KG
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Publication of EP2505096A1 publication Critical patent/EP2505096A1/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001Faceting gems
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/007Special types of gems

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a gemstone with a chaton.
  • Chaton Symposium has the so-called octant or Xilionschliff (eg Swarovski stones A1200 and A1028) established in the past in the market, as these have proven to be aesthetically pleasing and easy.
  • octant or Xilionschliff eg Swarovski stones A1200 and A1028
  • the "light return” value indicates how much light that strikes the gemstone from a predefined solid angle range falls back onto the observer essentially along the axis of symmetry of the stone in a relatively narrow (opening angle 3 °) directed solid angle range.
  • the term "fire” refers to the property of a gemstone to break up the incoming white light into its spectral components. The expression of this property depends on both the material (dispersion) and the cut.
  • a gemstone with a chaton section has a crown, also called upper part, with a defined number of lateral facets and a middle plane board, as well as a pavilion, also called lower part, with a defined number of facets on.
  • the opposite of the table opposite end of the gem can be used as a tip or as be formed rounded tip in the form of a so-called caliber.
  • Between the upper and lower part of a so-called Rondiste (peripheral edge) can be arranged.
  • the gemstone can be ground symmetrically or asymmetrically.
  • the object of the invention is to further improve the aesthetic impression of a gemstone with a chaton section by optimizing optical parameters, in particular "fire” and "light return”.
  • the gemstone has a chaton section, in which the crown angle ( ⁇ ) is between 40.5 ° and 42.5 °, surprisingly, a particularly high light output ("Light Return”) resulted in high "fire”.
  • the scintillation (sparkling of the moving gemstone) and the brilliance of the gemstone are particularly good for gettung.
  • the crown angle is that angle which results in a side view of the gemstone between the lateral boundary line of the crown and the rondistine plane, this boundary line resulting from an orthogonal projection of a crown facet on a plane containing the longitudinal axis of the gemstone.
  • the Rondistenebene is that level, which is arranged parallel to the board and in which the gemstone has the largest cross-sectional dimension.
  • the Rondistenebene is aligned perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the gem.
  • the "light return” and the "fire” can be measured, for example as shown below FIG. 5 and FIG is described. Instead of an actual measurement, the measurement can also be simulated mathematically on the basis of the geometry and the material of the gemstone.
  • crown angle ranges ( ⁇ ) are between 41.75 ° and 42.25 °. Very particularly preferred is the crown angle ( ⁇ ) at 41.95 °.
  • the gazebo angle ( ⁇ ) is between 39.5 ° and 41.5 °, preferably between 40.5 ° and 41.0 °, and most preferably 40.73 °.
  • the gazebo angle is that angle which results in a side view of the gemstone between the lateral boundary line of the gazebo and the girdle plane, this gauging line resulting from an orthogonal projection of a gazebo facet on a plane containing the longitudinal axis of the gemstone.
  • the gemstone according to the invention may preferably be made of a glass, a gemstone of natural or synthetic precious or semi-precious stone or plastic with the Chaton cut is also possible.
  • the crown of the gemstone which is also known as the upper part, has a board, bordered by the eight crown facets, each with a broadside.
  • these crown facets have an angle of between 33.5 ° and 35.5 ° to the rondist plane (preferably between 34.25 ° and 34.75 ° and most preferably 34.52).
  • the crown has eight other crown facets, each with a broadside adjacent to the Rondiste.
  • the angle between these crown facets and the rondist plane is between 40.5 ° and 42.5 ° (preferably between 41.75 ° and 42.25 ° and most preferably at 41.95 "), the orthogonal projection being the last one mentioned crown facets gives the crown angle.
  • the pavilion which is also known as the lower part, has at least 16 pavilion facets, which are guided together in the form of a point or a calette at the opposite end of the panel.
  • eight pavilion facets have a point located toward the rim, while eight pavilion facets have a broad side adjacent to the rim.
  • the broadside opposite end of this pavilion facet is tapered and pointed from the Rondiste directed away.
  • These pavilion facets, which are adjacent to the broadside on the ridge strip have an angle of between 39.5 ° and 41.5 °, preferably between 40.5 ° and 41 ° and most preferably 40.73 °, relative to the rim plane in one embodiment.
  • the orthogonal projection of the latter pavilion facets gives the pavilion angle.
  • the angle between the rondistine plane and those pavilion facets having a peak adjacent to the rondist or towards the rondist is between 35.0 ° and 37.0 ° (preferably between 36.0 ° ° and 36.5 ° and most preferably at 36.28 °)).
  • Fig. 1a shows a gemstone 1 according to the invention in a side view.
  • the crown 2 also called upper part of the pavilion 3, also called lower part separates.
  • the Rondiste 4 is that area of the largest cross-sectional dimension of the gem 1. Schematically represented is also the axis of symmetry (longitudinal axis L) of the gem.
  • the pavilion 3 has two types of pavilion facets 8, 9 (two-ply cut). In this case, eight Favillonfacetten 9 on a broadside, with which they adjoin the Rondiste 4. The remaining pavilion facets 8 have a tip, which is adjacent to the Rondiste 4 respectively.
  • the crown 2 also has 16 facets 10 and 11 and a flat panel 5, which is aligned parallel to the Rondistenebene 7 and perpendicular to the longitudinal axis L.
  • Eight crown facets 11 each adjoin the rondist 4 with one broad side and have a point which is aligned in the direction of the panel 5.
  • Eight other crown facets 10 each adjoin the board 5 with one broad side (two-ply cut).
  • Fig. 1b shows a plan view of the crown 2 of the gem 1.
  • the symmetry of the gemstone 1 can be seen.
  • the longitudinal axis L By the center of the coordinate cross the longitudinal axis L.
  • Fig. 1c shows a view from below of the pavilion 3 of the gem 1.
  • the top 6 which is formed by the adjoining Pavillonfacetten 8, symbolically another coordinate system for representing the symmetry of the gem 1 is shown.
  • Fig. 2 shows a schematic illustration for explaining the crown angle ⁇ formed between the Rondistenebene 7 and the lateral boundary line 16 of the crown 2, while the pavilion angle ⁇ between the lateral boundary line 17 of the pavilion 3 and the Rondistenebene 7 is formed.
  • Fig. 3a shows a gemstone 1 'with a Chatonschliff of the prior art (Swarovski A1200).
  • the rays of light 13 entering the jewelry are only partly reflected back in the viewing direction on the pavilion 3 'because of the angles with which the pavilion facets are ground, in particular because of the crown angle and the pavilion angle.
  • a portion of the rays is refracted or scattered sideways in the form of the beam 14. The light retum value is reduced
  • the light output is significantly improved, since the majority of the rays in the area of the pavilion 3 is totally reflected, so that almost the entire proportion of entering the crown 2 light rays 13 after optionally multiple reflection in the form of emerging from the crown 2 light rays 15 is reflected back to the viewer.
  • FIG. 4 shows the location of this gemstone invention I021 in the so-called Light Retum / Fire diagram. It can be seen that the gemstone according to the invention over the prior art A1200 and A1028, another stone of the Applicant simultaneously high light retum values and high Fire values and thus in terms of optical properties and aesthetic appearance of the prior art is superior.
  • Fig. 5 shows a schematic view of a measuring arrangement for measuring the light-return (light output) of a gem.
  • a gemstone 1 arranged in the center of the base circle 17 of the hemisphere 16 is illuminated by light rays 18, so that the crown 2 of the gemstone 1 is irradiated with white, diffused light, the light rays being hemispherical except for a darkened region 19 hit the gemstone 1 and be reflected by this.
  • the base circle 17 is darkened to recess for the gemstone 1, so that from below the base circle 17 no light impinges on the gemstone 1. Also darkened is a region 19 of the hemisphere 16, which lies exactly opposite the gemstone 1 and has an opening angle ⁇ of 46 °.
  • the area 19 has a recess 20 with an opening angle ⁇ of 3 °.
  • This recess 20 serves as a narrow measuring field for a detector. It can thus be arranged above the recess 20, a luminous flux measuring detector.
  • the respective light-specific values such as, for example, the brightness in the area of this recess 20, can be calculated in a computer simulation.
  • the amount of light reflected upwards by the gemstone 1 represents an average over almost all possible illumination arrangements and thus gives a quantitative measure of the light retum of the gemstone 1.
  • the reflections take place on different facets, so that light directly at the first impact the gemstone, but also after one of several internal reflections to the recess is reflected back.
  • the FIG. 6 shows a measuring arrangement for the "Fire" value (fire value).
  • the gemstone 1 held by a holder 20 is illuminated in the direction of its main axis with a directed list from the light source 21 through the opening 22.
  • the light scattered back by the gemstone 1 is recorded in color on a measuring field 24.
  • the product values of saturation and illuminance of the light points recorded in the measuring field (25) are summed up and thus give the measure for the "Fire.”
  • FIGS. 7a to 7c show a further embodiment of a gemstone according to the invention in a schematic side view, similar to FIG. 1a However, this stone is in contrast to the stone of FIG. 1a a pronounced peripheral edge 4a (Rondiste) is provided, which runs in the plan view of the gemstone circular around this.
  • Rondiste peripheral edge 4a
  • the invention is of course not limited to the illustrated embodiments, in particular, the number of facets vary, in contrast to the illustrated gemstone, which has both on the panel and the pavilion each 8+ facets, other combination of facets can be used, for example 6 + 6, 10 + 10 or 12 + 12 facets. Even odd facet numbers are possible. Also, the facet numbers between crown on the one hand and pavilion on the other do not have to match.
  • both the crown and the pavilion have two different grinding angles (two-ply cut) included.
  • two-ply cut two-ply cut
  • one-ply and multi-layered gemstones are possible.
  • the preferred material is glass, preferably having a refractive index between 1.50 and 1.60, and most preferably 1.55. But there are also other materials, especially natural stones conceivable and possible.

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Abstract

The gemstone (1) has crown (2) with tapering facets that adjoin a flat table (5) all the way round inclined relative to the table. The pavilion facets (8,9) extend as far as a rondist (4) at which the gemstone has the largest transverse dimension. A pavilion (3) of facets preferably terminates at a point (6) adjoining below the rondist. The gemstone is partially made of glass and the crown angle is between 40.5[deg] and 42.5[deg] .

Description

Die Erfindung betrifft einen Schmuckstein mit einem Chatonschliff.The invention relates to a gemstone with a chaton.

Zur Verbesserung der Brillanz und weiterer optischen Eigenschaften eines facettiert geschliffenen Schmucksteins, wurden im Laufe der Zeit verschiedenste Arten von Schliffen entwickelt, die sich einerseits durch die Anzahl der Facetten und andererseits durch die gegenseitigen geometrischen Lagebeziehungen der Facetten unterscheiden.To improve the brilliance and other optical properties of a faceted cut gemstone, over the course of time various types of cuts have been developed, which differ on the one hand by the number of facets and on the other by the mutual geometric positional relationships of the facets.

Insbesondere für Chatonbereich hat sich der sogenannte Oktant- oder Xilionschliff (zB Swarovski-Steine A1200 und A1028) in der Vergangenheit am Markt etabliert, da sich diese als ästhetisch und gut schleifbar herausgestellt haben.Especially for Chatonbereich has the so-called octant or Xilionschliff (eg Swarovski stones A1200 and A1028) established in the past in the market, as these have proven to be aesthetically pleasing and easy.

Wichtige Parameter für die Beurteilung eines Schmucksteins sind das so genannte "Fire" (Feuer) und "Light Return" (Lichtausbeute), das auf zahllosen inneren Lichtreflexionen beruht. Diese Lichtreflexionen werden an den einzelnen Facetten hervorgerufen, die in speziellen, den jeweiligen Schliff charakterisierenden Winkelverhältnissen zueinander stehen. Der Schliff und das Material eines Schmucksteins sind somit maßgeblich für das erzeugte "Fire" und "Light Return",Important parameters for the assessment of a gemstone are the so-called "Fire" and "Light Return", which is based on innumerable internal light reflections. These light reflections are caused by the individual facets, which stand in special angular relationships characterizing the respective cut. The cut and the material of a gemstone are therefore crucial for the generated "Fire" and "Light Return",

Der "Light Return"- Wert gibt an, wie viel Licht, das aus einem vordefinierten Raumwinkelbereich auf den Schmuckstein auftrifft, in einem relativ engen (Öffnungswinkel 3°) gerichteten Raumwinkelbereich auf den Betrachter im Wesentlichen entlang der Symmetrieachse des Steines zurückfällt.The "light return" value indicates how much light that strikes the gemstone from a predefined solid angle range falls back onto the observer essentially along the axis of symmetry of the stone in a relatively narrow (opening angle 3 °) directed solid angle range.

Ein weiteres wichtiges Merkmal zur Beurteilung der Brillanz eines Schmucksteines ist das "Fire". Als "Fire" bezeichnet man die Eigenschaft eines Schmucksteins, das einfallende weiße Licht in seine spektralen Anteile zu zerlegen. Die Ausprägung dieser Eigenschaft ist sowohl vom Material (Dispersion) als auch vom Schliff abhängig.Another important feature to assess the brilliance of a gemstone is the "Fire". The term "fire" refers to the property of a gemstone to break up the incoming white light into its spectral components. The expression of this property depends on both the material (dispersion) and the cut.

Ein Schmuckstein mit einem Chatonschliff weist eine Krone, auch Oberteil genannt, mit einer definierten Anzahl an seitlichen Facetten und einer mittleren ebenen Tafel, sowie ein Pavillon, auch Unterteil genannt, mit einer definierte Anzahl an Facetten, auf. Das der Tafel gegenüber liegende Ende des Schmucksteins kann als Spitze oder als abgerundete Spitze in Form einer so genannten Kalette ausgebildet sein. Zwischen Ober- und Unterteil kann eine so genannte Rondiste (Umfangsrand) angeordnet sein. Der Schmucksteins kann symmetrisch oder asymmetrisch geschliffen sein.A gemstone with a chaton section has a crown, also called upper part, with a defined number of lateral facets and a middle plane board, as well as a pavilion, also called lower part, with a defined number of facets on. The opposite of the table opposite end of the gem can be used as a tip or as be formed rounded tip in the form of a so-called caliber. Between the upper and lower part of a so-called Rondiste (peripheral edge) can be arranged. The gemstone can be ground symmetrically or asymmetrically.

Aufgabe der Erfindung ist es, den ästhetischen Eindruck eines Schmucksteins mit einem Chatonschliff durch Optimierung von optischen Parametern, insbesondere von "Fire" und "Light Return", weiter zu verbessern.The object of the invention is to further improve the aesthetic impression of a gemstone with a chaton section by optimizing optical parameters, in particular "fire" and "light return".

Dies wird durch einen Schmuckstein mit den Merkmalen des Anspruchs 1 gelöst.This is achieved by a gem with the features of claim 1.

Indem der Schmuckstein einen Chatonschliff aufweist, bei dem der Kronenwinkel (α) zwischen 40,5° und 42,5° beträgt, hat sich überraschend eine besonders hohe Lichtausbeute ("Light Return") bei gleichzeitig hohem "Feuer" ergeben. Die Szintillation (Funkeln des bewegten Schmucksteines) und die Brillianz des Schmucksteins kommen besonders gut zur Gettung.By the gemstone has a chaton section, in which the crown angle (α) is between 40.5 ° and 42.5 °, surprisingly, a particularly high light output ("Light Return") resulted in high "fire". The scintillation (sparkling of the moving gemstone) and the brilliance of the gemstone are particularly good for gettung.

Der Kronenwinkel ist jener Winkel, der sich bei einer Seitenansicht des Schmucksteins zwischen der seitlichen Begrenzungslinie der Krone und der Rondistenebene ergibt, wobei diese Begrenzungslinie sich durch eine Orthogonalprojektion einer Kronenfacette auf eine Ebene ergibt, die die Längsachse des Schmucksteins enthält.The crown angle is that angle which results in a side view of the gemstone between the lateral boundary line of the crown and the rondistine plane, this boundary line resulting from an orthogonal projection of a crown facet on a plane containing the longitudinal axis of the gemstone.

Die Rondistenebene ist jene Ebene, die parallel zur Tafel angeordnet ist und in der der Schmuckstein die größte Querschnittsausdehnung aufweist. Die Rondistenebene ist senkrecht zur Längsrichtung des Schmucksteins ausgerichtet.The Rondistenebene is that level, which is arranged parallel to the board and in which the gemstone has the largest cross-sectional dimension. The Rondistenebene is aligned perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the gem.

Der "Light Return" (die Lichtausbeute) und das "Fire" (Feuer) können gemessen werden, beispielsweise wie es weiter unten anhand der Fig 5 und Fig 6 beschrieben ist. Statt einer tatsächlichen Messung kann die Messung anhand der Geometrie und des Materials des Schmucksteins auch rechnerisch simuliert werden.The "light return" and the "fire" can be measured, for example as shown below FIG. 5 and FIG is described. Instead of an actual measurement, the measurement can also be simulated mathematically on the basis of the geometry and the material of the gemstone.

Weitere vorteilhafte Ausführungen der Erfindung der Erfindung sind in den abhängigen Ansprüchen definiert.Further advantageous embodiments of the invention of the invention are defined in the dependent claims.

Es hat sich herausgestellt, dass besonders bevorzugte Kronenwinkelbereiche (α) zwischen 41,75° und 42,25° liegen. Ganz besonders bevorzugt ist der Kronenwinkel (α) bei 41,95°.It has been found that particularly preferred crown angle ranges (α) are between 41.75 ° and 42.25 °. Very particularly preferred is the crown angle (α) at 41.95 °.

In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung beträgt der Pavillonwinkel (β) zwischen 39,5° und 41,5°, vorzugsweise zwischen 40,5° und 41,0° und ganz bevorzugt 40,73°.In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the gazebo angle (β) is between 39.5 ° and 41.5 °, preferably between 40.5 ° and 41.0 °, and most preferably 40.73 °.

Der Pavillonwinkel ist jener Winkel, der sich bei einer Seitenansicht des Schmucksteins zwischen der seitlichen Begrenzungslinie des Pavillons und der Rondistenebene ergibt, wobei diese Begrenzungslinie sich durch eine Orthogonalprojektion einer Pavillonfacette auf eine Ebene ergibt, die die Längsachse des Schmucksteins enthält.The gazebo angle is that angle which results in a side view of the gemstone between the lateral boundary line of the gazebo and the girdle plane, this gauging line resulting from an orthogonal projection of a gazebo facet on a plane containing the longitudinal axis of the gemstone.

Obgleich der erfindungsgemäße Schmuckstein bevorzugt aus einem Glas hergestellt sein kann, ist auch ein Schmuckstein aus natürlichen oder synthetischen Edel- oder Halbedelstein oder Kunststoff mit dem erfindungsgemäßen Chatonschliff möglich.Although the gemstone according to the invention may preferably be made of a glass, a gemstone of natural or synthetic precious or semi-precious stone or plastic with the Chaton cut is also possible.

Die Krone des Schmucksteins, die auch als Oberteil bekannt ist, weist eine Tafel auf, an die acht Kronenfacetten mit jeweils einer Breitseite angrenzen. In einer Ausführungsform der Erfindung weisen diese Kronenfacetten zur Rondistenebene einen Winkel zwischen 33,5° und 35,5° (vorzugsweise zwischen 34,25° und 34,75° und ganz bevorzugt bei 34,52) auf.The crown of the gemstone, which is also known as the upper part, has a board, bordered by the eight crown facets, each with a broadside. In one embodiment of the invention, these crown facets have an angle of between 33.5 ° and 35.5 ° to the rondist plane (preferably between 34.25 ° and 34.75 ° and most preferably 34.52).

Darüber hinaus weist die Krone acht weitere Kronenfacetten auf, die jeweils mit einer Breitseite an die Rondiste angrenzen. In einer Ausführungsform der Erfindung beträgt der Winkel zwischen diesen Kronenfacetten und der Rondistenebene zwischen 40,5° und 42,5° (vorzugsweise zwischen 41,75° und 42,25° und ganz bevorzugt bei 41,95"), Die Orthogonalprojektion der letzt genannten Kronenfacetten ergibt den Kronenwinkel.In addition, the crown has eight other crown facets, each with a broadside adjacent to the Rondiste. In one embodiment of the invention, the angle between these crown facets and the rondist plane is between 40.5 ° and 42.5 ° (preferably between 41.75 ° and 42.25 ° and most preferably at 41.95 "), the orthogonal projection being the last one mentioned crown facets gives the crown angle.

Der Pavillon, der auch als Unterteil bekannt ist, weist mindestens 16 Pavillonfacetten auf, die in Form einer Spitze oder einer Kalette am der Tafel gegenüberliegenden Ende zusammen geführt sind. Dabei haben in einer Ausführungsform acht Pavillonfacetten eine Spitze, die in Richtung zur Rondiste angeordnet ist, während 8 Pavillonfacetten eine Breitseite aufweisen, die an die Rondiste angrenzt. Das der Breitseite gegenüber liegende Ende dieser Pavillonfacette ist spitz zusammenlaufend und von der Rondiste weggerichtet. Diese mit der Breitseite an die Rondiste angrenzenden Pavillonfacetten weisen zur Rondistebene in eine Ausführungsform einen Winkel zwischen 39,5° und 41,5°, vorzugsweise zwischen 40,5° und 41° und ganz bevorzugt 40,73° auf. Die Orthogonalprojektion der letzt genannten Pavillonfacetten ergibt den Pavillonwinkel.The pavilion, which is also known as the lower part, has at least 16 pavilion facets, which are guided together in the form of a point or a calette at the opposite end of the panel. In one embodiment, eight pavilion facets have a point located toward the rim, while eight pavilion facets have a broad side adjacent to the rim. The broadside opposite end of this pavilion facet is tapered and pointed from the Rondiste directed away. These pavilion facets, which are adjacent to the broadside on the ridge strip, have an angle of between 39.5 ° and 41.5 °, preferably between 40.5 ° and 41 ° and most preferably 40.73 °, relative to the rim plane in one embodiment. The orthogonal projection of the latter pavilion facets gives the pavilion angle.

In einer Ausführungsform der Erfindung beträgt der Winkel zwischen der Rondistenebene und jenen Pavillonfacetten, die eine Spitze aufweisen, die an die Rondiste angrenzt bzw. in Richtung zur Rondiste angeordnet ist, zwischen 35,0° und 37,0° (vorzugsweise zwischen 36,0° und 36,5° und ganz bevorzugt bei 36,28°)).In one embodiment of the invention, the angle between the rondistine plane and those pavilion facets having a peak adjacent to the rondist or towards the rondist is between 35.0 ° and 37.0 ° (preferably between 36.0 ° ° and 36.5 ° and most preferably at 36.28 °)).

Weitere Einzelheiten und Vorteile der vorliegenden Erfindung werden anhand der Figurenbeschreibung unter Bezugnahme auf die Zeichnungen im Folgenden näher erläutert. Darin zeigt:

Fig. 1a bis 1c
eine Seitenansicht, eine Draufsicht, sowie eine Ansicht von unten auf einen erfindungsgemäßen Schmuckstein,
Fig. 2
eine schematische Darstellung zur Definition des Kronenwinkels und des Pavillonwinkels,
Fig. 3a und 3b
einen Vergleich eines Schmucksteins des Standes der Technik (Swarovski A1200) mit einem erfindungsgemäßen Schmuckstein durch eine schematische Darstellung von Strahlengängen,
Fig. 4
ein Light Return/ Fire-Diagramm
Fig. 5
eine schematische Darstellung der Messanordnung zur Messung des "Light Returns" (Lichtausbeute).
Fig. 6
eine schematische Darstellung der Messanordnung zur Messung des "Fire" (Feuer).
Fig. 7a bis 7c
ein weiteres Ausführungsbeispiel eines erfindungsgemäßen Schmucksteins in einer Seitenansicht.
Further details and advantages of the present invention will be explained in more detail below with reference to the description of the figures with reference to the drawings. It shows:
Fig. 1a to 1c
a side view, a plan view, and a bottom view of a gemstone according to the invention,
Fig. 2
a schematic representation for the definition of the crown angle and the gantry angle,
Fig. 3a and 3b
a comparison of a gemstone of the prior art (Swarovski A1200) with a gemstone according to the invention by a schematic representation of beam paths,
Fig. 4
a light return / fire diagram
Fig. 5
a schematic representation of the measuring arrangement for measuring the "light return" (luminous efficacy).
Fig. 6
a schematic representation of the measuring arrangement for measuring the "Fire" (fire).
Fig. 7a to 7c
a further embodiment of a gemstone according to the invention in a side view.

Fig. 1a zeigt einen erfindungsgemäßen Schmuckstein 1 in einer Seitenansicht. Zu erkennen ist die Rondiste 4, die die Krone 2, auch Oberteil genannt, vom Pavillon 3, auch Unterteil genannt, trennt. Die Rondiste 4 ist jener Bereich der größten Querschnittsausdehnung des Schmucksteins 1. Schematisch dargestellt ist zudem die Symmetrieachse (Längsachse L) des Schmucksteins. Fig. 1a shows a gemstone 1 according to the invention in a side view. To recognize is the Rondiste 4, the crown 2, also called upper part of the pavilion 3, also called lower part separates. The Rondiste 4 is that area of the largest cross-sectional dimension of the gem 1. Schematically represented is also the axis of symmetry (longitudinal axis L) of the gem.

Der Pavillon 3 weist zwei Arten von Pavillonfacetten 8, 9 auf (zweilagiger Schliff). Dabei weisen acht Favillonfacetten 9 eine Breitseite auf, mit der sie an die Rondiste 4 angrenzen. Die restlichen Pavillonfacetten 8 weisen eine Spitze auf, die jeweils an die Rondiste 4 angrenzt.The pavilion 3 has two types of pavilion facets 8, 9 (two-ply cut). In this case, eight Favillonfacetten 9 on a broadside, with which they adjoin the Rondiste 4. The remaining pavilion facets 8 have a tip, which is adjacent to the Rondiste 4 respectively.

Die Krone 2 weist auch 16 Facetten 10 und 11 sowie eine ebene Tafel 5 auf, die parallel zur Rondistenebene 7 und senkrecht zur Längsachse L ausgerichtet ist.The crown 2 also has 16 facets 10 and 11 and a flat panel 5, which is aligned parallel to the Rondistenebene 7 and perpendicular to the longitudinal axis L.

Acht Kronenfacetten 11 grenzen mit jeweils einer Breitseite an die Rondiste 4 an und weisen eine Spitze auf, die in Richtung der Tafel 5 ausgerichtet ist. Acht weitere Kronenfacetten 10 grenzen jeweils mit einer Breitseite an die Tafel 5 an (zweilagiger Schliff).Eight crown facets 11 each adjoin the rondist 4 with one broad side and have a point which is aligned in the direction of the panel 5. Eight other crown facets 10 each adjoin the board 5 with one broad side (two-ply cut).

Fig. 1b zeigt eine Draufsicht auf die Krone 2 des Schmucksteins 1. Durch das schematisch dargestellte Koordinatenkreuz auf der Tafel 5 ist die Symmetrie des Schmucksteins 1 erkennbar. Durch das Zentrum des Koordinatenkreuzes verläuft die Längsachse L. Fig. 1b shows a plan view of the crown 2 of the gem 1. By the coordinate shown schematically on the panel 5, the symmetry of the gemstone 1 can be seen. Through the center of the coordinate cross the longitudinal axis L.

Fig. 1c zeigt eine Ansicht von unten auf den Pavillon 3 des Schmucksteins 1. An der Spitze 6, die durch die aneinander angrenzenden Pavillonfacetten 8 ausgebildet ist, ist symbolisch ein weiteres Koordinatenkreuz zur Darstellung der Symmetrie des Schmucksteins 1 dargestellt. Fig. 1c shows a view from below of the pavilion 3 of the gem 1. At the top 6, which is formed by the adjoining Pavillonfacetten 8, symbolically another coordinate system for representing the symmetry of the gem 1 is shown.

Fig. 2 zeigt eine schematische Darstellung zur Erläuterung des Kronenwinkels α, der zwischen der Rondistenebene 7 und der seitlichen Begrenzungslinie 16 der Krone 2 ausgebildet ist, während der Pavillonwinkel β zwischen der seitlichen Begrenzungslinie 17 des Pavillons 3 und der Rondistenebene 7 ausgebildet ist. Fig. 2 shows a schematic illustration for explaining the crown angle α formed between the Rondistenebene 7 and the lateral boundary line 16 of the crown 2, while the pavilion angle β between the lateral boundary line 17 of the pavilion 3 and the Rondistenebene 7 is formed.

Fig. 3a zeigt einen Schmuckstein 1' mit einem Chatonschliff des Standes der Technik (Swarovski A1200). Die in den Schmucksteln eintretenden Lichtstrahlen 13 werden am Pavillon 3' aufgrund der Winkel, mit denen die Pavillonfacetten geschliffen sind, insbesondere wegen des Kronenwinkels und des Pavillonwinkels, nur zum Teil in Betrachtungsrichtung zurückreflektiert. Ein Anteil der Strahlen wird in Form des Strahles 14 zur Seite weg gebrochen oder gestreut. Der Light Retum-Wert ist reduziert Fig. 3a shows a gemstone 1 'with a Chatonschliff of the prior art (Swarovski A1200). The rays of light 13 entering the jewelry are only partly reflected back in the viewing direction on the pavilion 3 'because of the angles with which the pavilion facets are ground, in particular because of the crown angle and the pavilion angle. A portion of the rays is refracted or scattered sideways in the form of the beam 14. The light retum value is reduced

Fig. 3c zeigt dieselbe Darstellung für einen erfindungsgemäßen Schmuckstein 1. Aufgrund der speziellen geometrischen Anordnung der verschiedenen Facetten und des Kronenwinkels α und des Pavillonwinkels β ist die Lichtausbeute deutlich verbessert, da der Großteil der Strahlen im Bereich des Pavillons 3 totalreflektiert wird, sodass nahezu der gesamte Anteil an in die Krone 2 eintretenden Lichtstrahlen 13 nach gegebenenfalls mehrfacher Reflexion in Form von aus der Krone 2 austretenden Lichtstrahlen 15 zum Betrachter zurückreflektiert wird.Due to the special geometric arrangement of the various facets and the crown angle α and the gazebo angle β, the light output is significantly improved, since the majority of the rays in the area of the pavilion 3 is totally reflected, so that almost the entire proportion of entering the crown 2 light rays 13 after optionally multiple reflection in the form of emerging from the crown 2 light rays 15 is reflected back to the viewer.

Die folgende Tabelle zeigt die Unterschiede zum Stand der Technik des bekannten Schmucksteines A1200 der Anmelderin im Verhältnis zu einem Ausführungsbeispiel eines erfindungsgemäßen Schmucksteines "I021".The following table shows the differences to the prior art of the known gemstone A1200 the applicant in relation to an embodiment of a gemstone according to the invention "I021".

Die Figur 4 zeigt die Lage dieses erfindungsgemäßen Schmucksteines I021 im sogenannten Light Retum/Fire-Diagramm. Es ist ersichtlich, dass der erfindungsgemäße Schmuckstein gegenüber dem Stand der Technik A1200 und A1028, einem anderen Stein der Anmelderin gleichzeitig hohe Light Retum-Werte und hohe Fire-Werte aufweist und damit im Hinblick auf die optischen Eigenschaften und den ästhetischen Eindruck dem Stand der Technik überlegen ist.The FIG. 4 shows the location of this gemstone invention I021 in the so-called Light Retum / Fire diagram. It can be seen that the gemstone according to the invention over the prior art A1200 and A1028, another stone of the Applicant simultaneously high light retum values and high Fire values and thus in terms of optical properties and aesthetic appearance of the prior art is superior.

Fig. 5 zeigt in einer schematischen Ansicht eine Messanordnung zur Messung des Light Retum (Lichtausbeute) eines Schmucksteins. Mit einer halbkugelförmigen Beleuchtungsanordnung 16 wird ein sich im Zentrum des Grundkreises 17 der Halbkugel 16 angeordneter Schmuckstein 1 von Lichtstrahlen 18 beleuchtet, sodass die Krone 2 des Schmucksteins 1 mit weißem, diffusem Licht bestrahlt wird, wobei die Lichtstrahlen bis auf einen abgedunkelten Bereich 19 halbkugelförmig auf den Schmuckstein 1 auftreffen und von diesem reflektiert werden. Der Grundkreis 17 ist bis auf Ausnehmung für den Schmuckstein 1 abgedunkelt, sodass von unterhalb des Grundkreises 17 kein Licht auf den Schmuckstein 1 auftrifft. Ebenfalls abgedunkelt ist ein Bereich 19 der Halbkugel 16, die dem Schmuckstein 1 genau gegenüber liegt und einen Öffnungswinkel □ von 46° aufweist. Auch von diesem Bereich kommt kein Licht zum Schmuckstein 1. Der Bereich 19 weist eine Ausnehmung 20 mit einem Öffnungswinkel □ von 3° auf. Diese Ausnehmung 20 dient als enges Messfeld für einen Detektor. Es kann somit oberhalb der Ausnehmung 20 ein Lichtstrom messender Detektor angeordnet sein. Fig. 5 shows a schematic view of a measuring arrangement for measuring the light-return (light output) of a gem. With a hemispherical illumination arrangement 16, a gemstone 1 arranged in the center of the base circle 17 of the hemisphere 16 is illuminated by light rays 18, so that the crown 2 of the gemstone 1 is irradiated with white, diffused light, the light rays being hemispherical except for a darkened region 19 hit the gemstone 1 and be reflected by this. The base circle 17 is darkened to recess for the gemstone 1, so that from below the base circle 17 no light impinges on the gemstone 1. Also darkened is a region 19 of the hemisphere 16, which lies exactly opposite the gemstone 1 and has an opening angle □ of 46 °. Also from this area no light comes to the gemstone 1. The area 19 has a recess 20 with an opening angle □ of 3 °. This recess 20 serves as a narrow measuring field for a detector. It can thus be arranged above the recess 20, a luminous flux measuring detector.

Stattdessen können in einer Computersimulation die jeweiligen lichtspezifischen Werte, wie beispielweise die Helligkeit im Bereich dieser Ausnehmung 20 errechnet werden.Instead, the respective light-specific values, such as, for example, the brightness in the area of this recess 20, can be calculated in a computer simulation.

Die vom Schmuckstein 1 nach oben reflektierte Lichtmenge stellt einen Mittelwert über nahezu alle möglichen Beleuchtungsanordnungen dar und ergibt somit ein quantitatives Maß für den Light Retum (Lichtausbeute) des Schmucksteins 1. Die Reflexionen finden dabei an verschiedenen Facetten statt, sodass Licht direkt beim ersten Auftreffen auf den Schmuckstein, aber auch nach einer mehrerer interner Reflexionen zur Ausnehmung zurückreflektiert wird.The amount of light reflected upwards by the gemstone 1 represents an average over almost all possible illumination arrangements and thus gives a quantitative measure of the light retum of the gemstone 1. The reflections take place on different facets, so that light directly at the first impact the gemstone, but also after one of several internal reflections to the recess is reflected back.

Die Figur 6 zeigt eine Messanordnung für den "Fire"- Wert (Feuer-Wert). Der von einem Halter 20 gehaltene Schmuckstein 1 wird in Richtung von dessen Hauptachse mit einem gerichteten Listen aus der Lichtquelle 21 durch die Öffnung 22 hindurch beleuchtet. Das vom Schmuckstein 1 zurück gestreute Licht wird auf einem Messfeld 24 in Farbe aufgenommen. Die Produktwerte aus Sättigung und Beleuchtungsstärke der im Messfeld (25) erfassten Lichtpunkte werden aufsummiert und geben damit die Maßzahl für das "Fire."The FIG. 6 shows a measuring arrangement for the "Fire" value (fire value). The gemstone 1 held by a holder 20 is illuminated in the direction of its main axis with a directed list from the light source 21 through the opening 22. The light scattered back by the gemstone 1 is recorded in color on a measuring field 24. The product values of saturation and illuminance of the light points recorded in the measuring field (25) are summed up and thus give the measure for the "Fire."

Die Figuren 7a bis 7c zeigen ein weiteres Ausführungsbeispiel eines erfindungsgemäßen Schmucksteines in einer schematischen Seitenansicht, ähnlich der Figur 1a, allerdings ist bei diesem Stein im Gegensatz zum Stein der Figur 1a ein ausgeprägter Umfangsrand 4a (Rondiste) vorgesehen, der in der Draufsicht auf den Schmuckstein kreisförmig um diesen herumläuft.The FIGS. 7a to 7c show a further embodiment of a gemstone according to the invention in a schematic side view, similar to FIG. 1a However, this stone is in contrast to the stone of FIG. 1a a pronounced peripheral edge 4a (Rondiste) is provided, which runs in the plan view of the gemstone circular around this.

Die Erfindung ist selbstverständlich nicht auf die dargestellten Ausführungsbeispiele beschränkt, insbesondere kann die Anzahl der Facetten variieren, im Gegensatz zum dargestellten Schmuckstein, der sowohl auf der Tafel als auch beim Pavillon jeweils 8+ Facetten aufweist, können auch andere Kombination von Facetten eingesetzt werden, beispielsweise 6+6, 10+10 oder 12+12 Facetten. Auch ungerade Facettenzahlen sind möglich. Auch müssen die Facettenzahlen zwischen Krone einerseits und Pavillon andererseits nicht übereinstimmen.The invention is of course not limited to the illustrated embodiments, in particular, the number of facets vary, in contrast to the illustrated gemstone, which has both on the panel and the pavilion each 8+ facets, other combination of facets can be used, for example 6 + 6, 10 + 10 or 12 + 12 facets. Even odd facet numbers are possible. Also, the facet numbers between crown on the one hand and pavilion on the other do not have to match.

Beim dargestellten Ausführungsbeispiel hat sowohl die Krone als auch der Pavillon zwei unterschiedliche Schliffwinkel (zweilagige Schliffweise) enthalten. Grundsätzlich sind auch einlagige und mehrlagige Schmucksteine möglich.In the illustrated embodiment, both the crown and the pavilion have two different grinding angles (two-ply cut) included. Basically, one-ply and multi-layered gemstones are possible.

Als bevorzugtes Material wird Glas eingesetzt, vorzugsweise mit einem Brechungsindex zwischen 1,50 und 1,60, und am besten bei 1,55. Es sind aber auch andere Materialien, insbesondere natürliche Steine denkbar und möglich.The preferred material is glass, preferably having a refractive index between 1.50 and 1.60, and most preferably 1.55. But there are also other materials, especially natural stones conceivable and possible.

Claims (9)

Schmuckstein mit einem Chatonschliff, bei dem sich an eine ebene Tafel eine Krone rundherum schräg gegenüber der Tafel abfallende Facetten der Krone anschließen, die bis zu einer Rondiste reichen, an der der Schmuckstein die größte Querabmessung aufweist, wobei unterhalb der Rondiste ein Pavillon aus vorzugsweise spitz zusammenlaufender Facetten anschließt, wobei der Schmuckstein zumindest zum Großteil, vorzugsweise zur Gänze, aus Glas besteht, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Kronenwinkel (α) zwischen 40,5° und 42,5° beträgt.Gemstone with a chaton, in which a crown around a diagonally opposite to the panel sloping facets of the crown connect to a flat panel, which extend to a Rondiste, where the gemstone has the largest transverse dimension, below the Rondiste a gazebo preferably pointed merging facets connects, wherein the gem at least for the most part, preferably entirely, consists of glass, characterized in that the crown angle (α) is between 40.5 ° and 42.5 °. Schmuckstein nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Kronenwinkel (α) zwischen 41,75° und 42,25° liegt,Gemstone according to claim 1, characterized in that the crown angle (α) is between 41.75 ° and 42.25 °, Schmuckstein nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Kronenwinkel (α) bei 41,95° liegt.Gemstone according to claim 2, characterized in that the crown angle (α) is at 41.95 °. Schmuckstein nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Pavillonwinkel (β) zwischen 39,5° und 41,5° beträgt.Gemstone according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the gazebo angle (β) is between 39.5 ° and 41.5 °. Schmuckstein nach Anspruch 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Pavillonwinkel (β) zwischen 40,5° und 41° liegt.Gemstone according to claim 4, characterized in that the gazebo angle (β) is between 40.5 ° and 41 °. Schmuckstein nach Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Pavillonwinkel (β) bei 40,73° liegt.Gemstone according to claim 5, characterized in that the gazebo angle (β) is 40.73 °. Schmuckstein nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Winkel zwischen der Rondistenebene (7) und jenen Kronenfacetten (10), die mit einer Breitseite an die Tafel (5) angrenzen, zwischen 33,5° und 35,5°, vorzugsweise zwischen 34,25° und 34,75° und ganz bevorzugt 34,52° beträgt und/oder der Winkel zwischen der Rondistenebene (7) und jenen Kronenfacetten (11), die mit einer Breitseite an die Rondiste (4) angrenzen, zwischen 40,5° und 42,5°, vorzugsweise zwischen 41,75° und 42,25° und ganz bevorzugt 41,95° beträgt.Gemstone according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the angle between the Rondistenebene (7) and those crown facets (10), which adjoin the panel (5) with a broad side, between 33.5 ° and 35.5 ° , preferably between 34.25 ° and 34.75 ° and more preferably 34.52 ° and / or the angle between the Rondistenebene (7) and those crown facets (11), which adjoin the Rondiste (4) with a broad side, between 40.5 ° and 42.5 °, preferably between 41.75 ° and 42.25 °, and most preferably 41.95 °. Schmuckstein nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Winkel zwischen der Rondistenebene (7) und jenen Pavillonfacetten (8), die eine Spitze aufweisen, die in Richtung zur Rondiste (4) angeordnet ist, zwischen 35,0° und 37,0°, vorzugsweise zwischen 36,0° und 36,5° und ganz bevorzugt 36,28° beträgt und/oder der Winkel zwischen der Rondistenebene (7) und jenen Pavillonfacetten (9), die mit einer Breitseite an die Rondiste (4) angrenzen zwischen 39,5° und 41,5°, vorzugsweise zwischen 40,5° und 41,0° und ganz bevorzugt 40,73° beträgtGemstone according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the angle between the Rondistenebene (7) and those pavilion facets (8) having a tip which is arranged in the direction of the Rondiste (4), between 35.0 ° and 37.0 °, preferably between 36.0 ° and 36.5 ° and most preferably 36.28 ° and / or the angle between the Rondistenebene (7) and those Pavillonfacetten (9), with a broadside to the Rondiste ( 4) is between 39.5 ° and 41.5 °, preferably between 40.5 ° and 41.0 ° and most preferably 40.73 ° Schmuckstein nach einer der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das transparente Material des Schmucksteines einen Brechungsindex von 1,50 bis 1,60, vorzugsweise bei etwa 1,55 aufweist.Gemstone according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the transparent material of the gemstone has a refractive index of 1.50 to 1.60, preferably at about 1.55.
EP12001197.8A 2011-03-07 2012-02-23 Jewellery stone with chaton cut Active EP2505096B1 (en)

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AT12644U1 (en) 2012-09-15
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