EP1967622B1 - Process for the production of a textile in extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable, by the use of continuous water-soluble synthetic filaments - Google Patents

Process for the production of a textile in extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable, by the use of continuous water-soluble synthetic filaments Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1967622B1
EP1967622B1 EP08102250A EP08102250A EP1967622B1 EP 1967622 B1 EP1967622 B1 EP 1967622B1 EP 08102250 A EP08102250 A EP 08102250A EP 08102250 A EP08102250 A EP 08102250A EP 1967622 B1 EP1967622 B1 EP 1967622B1
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European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarns
extra
fibres
animal fibres
textile
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EP08102250A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP1967622A3 (en
EP1967622A2 (en
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Jacopo Geraldini
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D03D15/235—Cashmere or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/60—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
    • D03D15/68—Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals

Definitions

  • the present invention concerns a process for the production of a textile in extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable.
  • the doubling is carried out with an opposite twist to that of the individual yarn, i.e. with an S twist, so as to avoid twists which the yarns of extra-fine cashmere fibres cannot tolerate, and thus obtain a final textile that is extremely soft and pleasant to the touch.
  • the doubling is carried out with opposite twist to that of the individual yarn, i.e. with an S twist.
  • discontinuous water-soluble yarns are used, made up of fibres spun with cotton-type cut.
  • JP-A- 55 098936 discloses a method for manufacturing a worsted crepe fabric.
  • US-A-2 592 153 discloses a process for manufacturing a textile fabric in which a wool yarn is twisted together with a synthetic filament having a fineness much lower than that of the wool fabric.
  • the composite yarns are woven or knitted and the synthetic filament is then dissolved in an alkaline bath.
  • GB-A-1 068 662 discloses a method for making a bulky yarn starting by combining a bulky stretchable yarn of a substantially solid structure with a substantially unstretchable yarn and with a binding yarn. At least one of the unstretchable yarn and the binding yarn are made of a synthetic material which may be dissolved in an aqueous acid solution.
  • EP-A-1 245 706 discloses a process for manufacturing a worsted wool fabric in which a continuous filament of lower fineness is wrapped on a single wool yarn of higher fineness.
  • the object of the present invention has now been to create a process which enables the weaving of yarns in extra-fine animal fibres, particularly in cashmere fibres, using thinner water-soluble threads and reducing the "piling" effect to a minimum.
  • the starting yarns can be of extra-fine animal fibres only, particularly of cashmere, or can be mixed yarns (in so-called "intimate mixture") of extra-fine animal fibres, for example of cashmere, and silk fibres. In both cases the yarns have a fineness of between 50 and 200 dtex.
  • the twist for doubling the continuous filaments is a Z twist of about 200 turns per linear metre.
  • Yam 1 indicates a starting yarn with extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable.
  • Yam 1 can be made up of extra-fine animal fibres only, particularly of cashmere, or can be a mixed yarn 1 of extra-fine animal fibres and silk fibres, for example of composition 80%WS (cashmere) - 20%SE (silk) with an extra-fine fineness of 66 dtex.
  • Yam 1 is made using traditional spinning with a Z twist of 1100 turns per linear metre.
  • Yam 1 is doubled with a continuous synthetic filament 2, made in polyvinyl material (PVA), i.e. soluble in slightly acidic aqueous solution at high temperature.
  • Continuous synthetic material 2 is of the same fineness as yarn 1, as illustrated in figures 1 and 2 .
  • Doubling is performed with a twist in the same direction as that of yarns 1, i.e. with a Z twist.
  • the doubling twist is of low level, of about 200 turns per linear metre, so as not to create strength problems for yarns 1, and so as to obtain good softness for the final product, accompanied by an almost total absence of "piling".
  • the raw textile thus created which can be in any weave such as plain, twill or jacquard, clearly has the same composition as doubled combinations 3.
  • This raw textile then undergoes a stage of purging by a dyeing-type process, in which it is immersed in an aqueous solution of about 50 litres per kilogram of polyvinyl with a slightly acid pH (about 4.5) at a temperature of between 30°C and 100°C (depending on the nature of the PVA yarn).
  • the synthetic filaments 2 are thus eliminated by dissolution or melting, leaving a final textile ( fig. 3 ) composed exclusively of yarns 1 and therefore having a final composition with a fineness of 66 dtex, which is impossible to achieve industrially with traditional techniques.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

A process for the production of a textile in extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable comprises the following succession of stages: a) spinning of yarns (1) containing extra-fine animal fibres; b) doubling of each of said yarns (1) with a respective continuous synthetic filament (2), soluble in a slightly acidic liquid solution at high temperature, said doubling being executed with slight twisting in a direction matching that of said yarns (1); c) weaving of the doubled yarns (1) and filaments (2); d) dissolution of said synthetic filaments (2) by means of a slightly acidic liquid solution at high temperature. A soft textile, substantially with a notable reduction in the "peeling" effect, is thus obtained, made up only of yarns (1) of extra-fine animal fibres, and in particular of cashmere, not industrially weavable.

Description

  • The present invention concerns a process for the production of a textile in extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable.
  • In the field of extra-fine animal fibres it is well-known that it is possible industrially to manufacture yarns of very high fineness, for example worsted yarns with a fineness of between 50 and 200 dtex. It is however equally well-known that such yarns have a kinetic strength so low as not to be able to undergo an industrial weaving operation at single ply, which requires a breaking strength of not less than 80-100 grams.
  • To solve this problem, it has already been proposed by the same Applicant, according to European Patent no. 1 061 162 , to double a yarn of pure extra-fine cashmere fibres and a yarn of water-soluble synthetic fibres (or, better, soluble in a slightly acidic aqueous solution at high temperature), to then weave the doubled yarns thus obtained, and finally to dissolve the water-soluble yarns in order to obtain a final textile of pure extra-fine cashmere.
  • According to this process, starting from yarns of pure cashmere fibres with a Z twist, the doubling is carried out with an opposite twist to that of the individual yarn, i.e. with an S twist, so as to avoid twists which the yarns of extra-fine cashmere fibres cannot tolerate, and thus obtain a final textile that is extremely soft and pleasant to the touch.
  • Alternatively, a process was recently proposed by the same Applicant (see EP-A-2953280 according to Art. 54(3) EPC) which envisages initially spinning mixed yarns of extra-fine animal fibres (for example of cashmere) and silk fibres, doubling each of said mixed yarns with a respective yarn of water-soluble synthetic fibres, weaving the doubled yarns and finally dissolving or melting the water-soluble yarns to obtain a final textile of pure extra-fine animal fibres, in particular of pure extra-fine cashmere.
  • Once again, the doubling is carried out with opposite twist to that of the individual yarn, i.e. with an S twist.
  • In both cases, discontinuous water-soluble yarns are used, made up of fibres spun with cotton-type cut.
  • Aside from the undoubted and recognised value of the processes described above, there is the problem that the twisting performed in doubling the discontinuous water-soluble yarns in the opposite direction to that of the yarns of extra-fine fibres, besides requiring the use of relatively thick water-soluble yarns, substantially of the same fineness as the extra-fine yarns, gives rise to an effect known as "piling", which the male clients having beards and hair which can cause deterioration of the textile by rubbing, consider annoying.
  • JP-A- 55 098936 discloses a method for manufacturing a worsted crepe fabric.
  • US-A-2 592 153 discloses a process for manufacturing a textile fabric in which a wool yarn is twisted together with a synthetic filament having a fineness much lower than that of the wool fabric. The composite yarns are woven or knitted and the synthetic filament is then dissolved in an alkaline bath.
  • GB-A-1 068 662 discloses a method for making a bulky yarn starting by combining a bulky stretchable yarn of a substantially solid structure with a substantially unstretchable yarn and with a binding yarn. At least one of the unstretchable yarn and the binding yarn are made of a synthetic material which may be dissolved in an aqueous acid solution.
  • EP-A-1 245 706 discloses a process for manufacturing a worsted wool fabric in which a continuous filament of lower fineness is wrapped on a single wool yarn of higher fineness.
  • The object of the present invention has now been to create a process which enables the weaving of yarns in extra-fine animal fibres, particularly in cashmere fibres, using thinner water-soluble threads and reducing the "piling" effect to a minimum.
  • In view of this object, the process according to the present invention is characterised by comprising the succession of stages recited in claim 1.
  • By the use of continuous synthetic filaments subjected to slight doubling which matches that of the yarns with extra-fine animal fibres, it is possible industrially to obtain textiles in extra-fine animal fibres, particularly in cashmere fibres, losing slightly in softness by comparison with the known processes described above, but reducing to a minimum or actually eliminating the "piling" effect, to the great advantage of pleasantness of the finished product, and of greater durability.
  • The starting yarns can be of extra-fine animal fibres only, particularly of cashmere, or can be mixed yarns (in so-called "intimate mixture") of extra-fine animal fibres, for example of cashmere, and silk fibres. In both cases the yarns have a fineness of between 50 and 200 dtex.
  • Considering extra-fine animal fibres with a Z spinning twist of 1100 turns per linear metre, the twist for doubling the continuous filaments is a Z twist of about 200 turns per linear metre.
  • An embodiment of the process according to the present invention will now be described in detail with reference to the attached drawings, in which:
    • figure 1 shows a yarn with extra-fine animal fibres, in particular extra-fine cashmere fibres, doubled with a continuous synthetic filament, in particular of polyvinyl material, soluble in slightly acidic liquid solution at high temperature;
    • figure 2 shows a portion of a raw textile obtained by weaving yarns with extra-fine animal fibres doubled with continuous synthetic filaments as in figure 1;
    • figure 3 shows the same portion of textile after the dissolution of the synthetic filaments.
  • 1 indicates a starting yarn with extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable. Yam 1 can be made up of extra-fine animal fibres only, particularly of cashmere, or can be a mixed yarn 1 of extra-fine animal fibres and silk fibres, for example of composition 80%WS (cashmere) - 20%SE (silk) with an extra-fine fineness of 66 dtex. Yam 1 is made using traditional spinning with a Z twist of 1100 turns per linear metre.
  • Yam 1 is doubled with a continuous synthetic filament 2, made in polyvinyl material (PVA), i.e. soluble in slightly acidic aqueous solution at high temperature. Continuous synthetic material 2 is of the same fineness as yarn 1, as illustrated in figures 1 and 2.
  • Doubling is performed with a twist in the same direction as that of yarns 1, i.e. with a Z twist. The doubling twist is of low level, of about 200 turns per linear metre, so as not to create strength problems for yarns 1, and so as to obtain good softness for the final product, accompanied by an almost total absence of "piling".
  • As shown in figure 2, an appropriate number of doubled combinations 3, each made up of a yarn 1 of pure extra-fine animal fibres or a mixture of extra-fine animal fibres and silk fibres and a continuous water-soluble synthetic filament 2, subsequently undergoes traditional warp and weft weaving (or on a circular machine of Jersey type), in which the synthetic filaments 2 function as a support to enable the weaving of yarns 1, otherwise not industrially weavable.
  • The raw textile thus created, which can be in any weave such as plain, twill or jacquard, clearly has the same composition as doubled combinations 3.
  • This raw textile then undergoes a stage of purging by a dyeing-type process, in which it is immersed in an aqueous solution of about 50 litres per kilogram of polyvinyl with a slightly acid pH (about 4.5) at a temperature of between 30°C and 100°C (depending on the nature of the PVA yarn).
  • The synthetic filaments 2 are thus eliminated by dissolution or melting, leaving a final textile (fig. 3) composed exclusively of yarns 1 and therefore having a final composition with a fineness of 66 dtex, which is impossible to achieve industrially with traditional techniques.
  • As a result of the slight Z twist imparted by the doubling in the same direction as the twist of yarns 1, after the dissolution of the synthetic yarns 2 the remaining yarn 1 has a twist which is the sum of the twists from spinning and doubling, in other words in the example under consideration a twist of 1300 Z, but it is sufficiently low as to make the final textile soft and at the same time to produce a considerable reduction in the "piling" effect.

Claims (5)

  1. A process for the production of a textile in animal fibre yarns having a fineness between 50 and 200 dtex, comprising the following succession of stages:
    a) spinning of yarns (1) containing animal fibres, the spun yarns (1) having a fineness between 50 and 200 dtex and a Z twist of 1100 turns per linear metre;
    b) doubling of each spun yarn (1) with a respective continuous PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) synthetic filament (2) soluble in a liquid solution with about 4.5 pH at a temperature between 30°C and 100°C, said synthetic PVA filament (2) being substantially of the same fineness as the spun yarn (1), said doubling being executed with a Z twisting of about 200 turns per linear metre;
    c) weaving of the doubled spun yarns (1) and filaments (2);
    d) dissolution of said synthetic PVA filaments (2) by means of a liquid solution with about 4.5 pH at a temperature between 30°C and 100°C.
  2. A process according to claim 1, characterised in that said spun yarns (1) are made of animal fibres only.
  3. A process according to claim 1, characterised in that said spun yarns (1) are mixed yarns of animal fibres and silk fibres.
  4. A process according to any of claims 1 to 3, characterised in that said animal fibres are cashmere fibres.
  5. A process according to claim 3, characterised in that said mixed yarns (1) have a composition of 80% cashmere and 20% silk.
EP08102250A 2007-03-09 2008-03-04 Process for the production of a textile in extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weavable, by the use of continuous water-soluble synthetic filaments Active EP1967622B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT000467A ITMI20070467A1 (en) 2007-03-09 2007-03-09 PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A FABRIC IN

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EP1967622A2 EP1967622A2 (en) 2008-09-10
EP1967622A3 EP1967622A3 (en) 2008-10-08
EP1967622B1 true EP1967622B1 (en) 2010-08-25

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EP (1) EP1967622B1 (en)
AT (1) ATE478988T1 (en)
DE (1) DE602008002269D1 (en)
IT (1) ITMI20070467A1 (en)

Families Citing this family (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITMI20080203A1 (en) * 2008-02-08 2008-05-09 G T I S P A Gruppo Tessile Ind PROCEDURE FOR REALIZING A MULTICOMPONENT WIRE AND MULTICOMPONENT WIRE SO MADE
IT1391110B1 (en) * 2008-09-22 2011-11-18 Canepa S P A PROCEDURE FOR THE REALIZATION OF A THIN FIBER OF NATURAL FIBERS ANIMALS OR VEGETABLES IN PURE OR MIXED BETWEEN THEM TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF A FABRIC
IT1401154B1 (en) * 2010-07-28 2013-07-12 Flii Citterio Spa PROCESS OF PRODUCTION OF A FABRIC IN NATURAL FIBER TEXTILE ANIMALS, PARTICULARLY FIBERS NATURAL TEXTILE OF PRECIOUS TYPE
EP2554733B1 (en) * 2011-08-05 2014-11-19 Canepa S.p.A. Machine for providing suitability for weaving a thin yarn and/or warp made by animal and/or vegetal and/or artificial and/or synthetic fibers at a pure state or in a mixture of the same
ITMI20111901A1 (en) * 2011-10-19 2013-04-20 Alfonso Saibene PROCEDURE FOR THE SUBMISSION OF FITNESS TO THE WEAVING OF A THIN AND / OR THIN ORDER
ITMI20131647A1 (en) * 2013-10-04 2015-04-05 Ermes Ardizzone PROCEDURE FOR THE REALIZATION OF VERY LIGHT, ANTI-SKY AND NATURAL ELASTIC FABRIC AND MESH WITH PROTEIN FIBERS.
CN103757777B (en) * 2014-01-22 2016-03-30 宁波康赛妮毛绒制品有限公司 A kind of goat cashmere and slenderised wool blended yarn and preparation method thereof
CN104032428A (en) * 2014-05-21 2014-09-10 苏州市吴中区甪直明达漂染厂 High-temperature-resistant yarn knitted in double-blending mode
ITUB20155104A1 (en) 2015-10-28 2017-04-28 Filatura Di Trivero S P A PROCEDURE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A YARN BASED ON A NATURAL FIBER AND A FABRIC MADE OF SUCH YARN
ITUA20162888A1 (en) * 2016-04-26 2017-10-26 Jacopo Geraldini Process for the production of textile material consisting of yarns derived from valuable animal and / or vegetable fibers, extra-fine, with a title such as to be considered non-wearable with mechanical looms and textile material obtained with the process
CN110219078B (en) * 2019-04-22 2021-09-21 兔皇羊绒有限公司 Method for manufacturing cashmere overcoat
CN111893612A (en) * 2020-07-02 2020-11-06 苏州维杰纺织有限公司 High-elastic antistatic covering yarn
IT202000017314A1 (en) * 2020-07-16 2022-01-16 Filatura Papi Fabio S P A YARN AND TEXTILE PRODUCT OBTAINED WITH YARN MADE WITH A CARDED MANUFACTURING PROCESS IN COMBINATION WITH POLYVINYL ALCOHOL (PVA) FILAMENT

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1953280A2 (en) * 2007-01-31 2008-08-06 Jacopo Geraldini Process for the production of a fabric made of extrafine animal fibres which are not industrially weaveable and a fabric obtained thereby.

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2592153A (en) * 1941-04-11 1952-04-08 Alginate Ind Ltd Textile fabric
GB1068662A (en) * 1962-10-20 1967-05-10 Hanjiro Fujii Novel yarn
JPS5598936A (en) * 1979-01-18 1980-07-28 Unitika Ltd Production of wool yarn fabric
IT1312400B1 (en) * 1999-06-15 2002-04-17 Jacopo Geraldini PROCESS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A TEXTILE ARTICLE IN PURE CASHMERE
IL142252A0 (en) * 2001-03-26 2002-03-10 Polgat Textiles Co 1960 Ltd Novel process for the manufacture of super fine woven wool fabric with single yarn in the warp having improved weavability
ITMI20022195A1 (en) * 2002-10-16 2004-04-17 Jacopo Geraldini PROCESS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A TEXTILE ARTICLE IN PURE CASHMERE.

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1953280A2 (en) * 2007-01-31 2008-08-06 Jacopo Geraldini Process for the production of a fabric made of extrafine animal fibres which are not industrially weaveable and a fabric obtained thereby.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP1967622A3 (en) 2008-10-08
ATE478988T1 (en) 2010-09-15
EP1967622A2 (en) 2008-09-10
DE602008002269D1 (en) 2010-10-07
ITMI20070467A1 (en) 2008-09-10

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