Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/67—Vitamins
  • A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K9/10—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K9/107—Emulsions ; Emulsion preconcentrates; Micelles
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion comprising ascorbic acid, a hydrophilic polysaccharide gelling agent, a sorbitan ester, an ethoxylated fatty ester and a polymer containing a sulfonic group.
• ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of connective tissue and especially collagen, strengthens the skin's defenses against external aggressions such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, compensates for the vitamin E deficiency of the skin, depigments the skin and has an anti-free radical function.
• ascorbic acid is very sensitive to certain parameters of the environment and especially to oxidation phenomena.
• a cosmetic emulsion containing ascorbic acid which is degraded generally has a significant drop in viscosity, as well as a phase shift: the composition thus becomes unstable and is no longer suitable for the intended use.
• the object of the present invention is therefore to provide an emulsion containing ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives which is stable, in particular for 8 days at 35 ° C., or even 2 months at 55 ° C., or even during 2 months at 45 ° C.
• composition can be obtained by formulating the ascorbic acid in an oil-in-water emulsion in the presence of a particular surfactant mixture, a polysaccharide hydrophilic gelling agent and a grouping polymer. sulfonic acid.
• the subject of the invention is a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, at least one hydrophilic polysaccharide gelling agent, at least one C 16 -C 22 fatty acid ester and sorbitan, at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester and at least one polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a sulfonic group.
• the subject of the invention is also a non-therapeutic method for the care or makeup of keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition defined above.
• composition according to the invention comprises ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, in particular its salts or one of its esters.
• ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), potassium of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-2l-ascorbyl-phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche under the reference Stay -C 50) and ascorbyl glucoside (sold by the company Hayashibara).
• ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), potassium of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-2l-ascorbyl-phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference SEPIVITAL E
• the ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from , From 01% to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight.
• composition according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic polysaccharide gelling agent.
• the hydrophilic polysaccharide gelling agent may be chosen from glucans, modified or non-modified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables such as sweet pea, from tubers such as earth or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcelluloses), mannan, xylan, lignins, arabans , galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, tragacanth gum
• Xanthan gums are preferably used.
• the hydrophilic polysaccharide gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight. weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.
• composition according to the invention comprises, as emulsifier, at least one C 16 -C 22 fatty acid ester and sorbitan and at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester.
• the esters of C 16 -C 22 fatty acids and of sorbitan are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one linear saturated alkyl chain. or unsaturated, having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, with sorbitol. These esters may especially be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, sorbitan oleates, and mixtures thereof. Sorbitan stearates and palmitates, and preferably sorbitan stearates, are preferably used.
• the C 16 -C 22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C.
• sorbitan ester which may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Uniqema under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by the company. Uniqema company under the name Span 65 V, the sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Uniqema under the name Span 40, the sorbitan monoleate sold by Uniqema under the name Span 80 V, the trioleate of sorbitan sold by the company Uniquema under the name Span 85 V.
• the ester of C 16 -C 22 fatty acid and of sorbitan may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight.
• the ethoxylated fatty ester present in the composition according to the invention is preferably a C 16 -C 22 fatty acid ester comprising from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units.
• the fatty chain of the esters may in particular be chosen from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl and cetyl units and their mixtures such as cetearyl.
• the number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and more preferably from 20 to 60. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, this number is 40.
• stearic acid esters comprising respectively 20, 30, 40, 50, 100 ethylene oxide units, such as the products marketed respectively under the name Myrj 49.
• P, Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P polyethylene glycol stearate 40 OE, CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate
• Myrj 53, Myrj 59 P by the company UNIQEMA
• the ethoxylated fatty ester may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight. % in weight.
• the composition according to the invention also comprises a polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a sulfonic group.
• a polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a sulfonic group.
• the polymers comprising at least one monomer containing a sulfonic group, used in the composition of the invention, are water-soluble or water-dispersible or swellable in water.
• the polymers used in accordance with the invention may be homopolymers or copolymers and may be obtained from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer and with a sulfonic group, which may be in free form or partially or totally neutralized. These polymers may optionally comprise at least one hydrophobic group and then constitute an amphiphilic polymer (or hydrophobic modified polymer).
• the polymers in accordance with the invention may be partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N methyl glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are usually neutralized.
• a mineral base sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia
• organic base such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N methyl glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are usually neutralized.
• neutralized in the present invention means polymers that are totally or substantially completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%.
• the polymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000. g / mol.
• These polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
• the monomers containing a sulfonic group of the polymer used in the composition of the invention are chosen in particular from vinylsulphonic acid, styrenesulphonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22 ) alkylsulphonic acids and N- ( C 1 -C 22 ) alkyl- (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22 ) alkylsulfonic acid such as undecyl-acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.
• the monomers containing a sulphonic group are chosen from (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22 ) alkylsulphonic acids such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido acid and the like.
• ethanesulfonic acid acrylamido-propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butane sulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or completely neutralized forms, and their mixtures.
• APMS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
• the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the olefinically-polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking the polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
• crosslinking agents examples include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, di (meth) acrylate and the like.
• ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl meth) acrylate, the allyl ethers of alcohols of the series of sugars, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and the allylic esters of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives. , or mixtures of these compounds.
• the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA).
• TMPTA trimethylol propane triacrylate
• the degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
• the polymers used are homopolymers, they comprise only monomers containing a sulfonic group and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents.
• the more particularly preferred homopolymers according to the invention comprise from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (II) and from 0.2 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.
• the polymer may also be an amphiphilic homopolymer (or hydrophobic modified homopolymer) chosen from AMPS random amphiphilic polymers modified by reaction with a C 6 -C 22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in US Pat. WO-A-00/31154, which are homopolymers grafted.
• an amphiphilic homopolymer or hydrophobic modified homopolymer chosen from AMPS random amphiphilic polymers modified by reaction with a C 6 -C 22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in US Pat. WO-A-00/31154, which are homopolymers grafted.
• the polymers used are copolymers, they are capable of being obtained from monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation and with a sulfonic group and other ethylenically unsaturated monomers, that is to say monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation without grouping. sulfonic acid.
• the monomers with ethylenic unsaturation and with a sulfonic group are chosen from those described above.
• the ethylenically unsaturated monomers without sulfonic groups may be chosen from hydrophilic monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation, hydrophobic monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation, and mixtures thereof. When the polymer contains hydrophobic monomers, it constitutes an amphiphilic polymer (also called hydrophobic modified polymer).
• hydrophilic monomers with ethylenic unsaturation may be chosen for example from (meth) acrylic acids, their ⁇ -substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.
• the polymer of the composition according to the invention is a copolymer that can be obtained from ethylenically unsaturated monomers and from sulfonic group and hydrophilic monomers ethylenically unsaturated, it may be chosen in particular from (1) crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methylacrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, especially those in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7), under the name SIMULGEL 600 by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80), (2) copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or (meth) acrylate and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulf
• the polymer obtained is amphiphilic, that is to say that it comprises at least one both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part.
• Such polymers are also known as hydrophobic modified polymers.
• hydrophobic modified polymers may also contain one or more monomers containing no sulphonic group or fatty chain, such as (meth) acrylic acids, their ⁇ -substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly- alkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, maleic acid or mixtures thereof.
• monomers containing no sulphonic group or fatty chain such as (meth) acrylic acids, their ⁇ -substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly- alkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, maleic acid or mixtures thereof.
• Hydrophobic modified polymers that can be used include those obtainable from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) and at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one group having 6 at 50 carbon atoms, more preferably at 6 to 22 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
• AMPS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid
• hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one group having 6 at 50 carbon atoms, more preferably at 6 to 22 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
• the hydrophobic monomers of these particular polymers are preferably chosen from the acrylates, alkyl acrylates, acrylamides or alkyl acrylamides of formula (III) below: in which R 1 and R 3 , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a substantially linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y is O or NH; R 2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number of moles of alkylene oxide and ranges from 0 to 100.
• the radical R 2 is preferably chosen from substantially linear C 6 -C 18 alkyl radicals (for example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or lauryl, n-octadecyl or stearyl ), branched or cyclic (eg cyclododecane (C 12 ) or adamantane (C 10 )); perfluorinated C 6 -C 18 alkyl radicals (for example the group of formula - (CH 2 ) 2 - (CF 2 ) 9- CF 3 ); the cholesteryl radical (C 27 ) or a cholesteryl ester residue such as the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; polycyclic aromatic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene.
• the monomer of formula (III) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x ⁇ 1) and preferably several alkylene oxide units (x> 1) constituting a polyoxyalkylene chain.
• the polyoxyalkylene chain is preferably composed of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly ethylene oxide units.
• the number of oxyalkylenated units (or number of moles of alkylene oxide) generally varies from 3 to 100, more preferably from 3 to 50 and even more preferably from 7 to 25.
• hydrophobic modified polymers mention may be made more particularly of the copolymers consisting of (i) 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units of formula (II) indicated above, in which X + is a proton, a alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or ammonium ion, and (ii) units of formula (IV) below: in which x denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 100, preferably from 3 to 50 and more preferably from 7 to 25; R 1 has the same meaning as that indicated above in formula (III) and R 4 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
• AMPS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
• the polymers for which X + denotes sodium or ammonium are more particularly preferred.
• hydrophobic modified polymers may in particular be obtained by radical polymerization in tert-butanol medium in which they precipitate.
• precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol it is possible to obtain a particle size distribution of the polymer which is particularly favorable for its uses.
• the reaction may be conducted at a temperature between 0 and 150 ° C, preferably between 10 and 100 ° C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure. It can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.
• the molar concentration in% of the units of formula (II) and of units of formula (IV) in the polymers according to the invention varies according to the desired cosmetic application and the rheological properties of the desired formulation. It can vary between 0.1 and 99.9 mol%.
• the molar proportion in units of formula (II) or (IV) ranges from 50.1 to 99.9%, more particularly from 70 to 95% and even more particularly from 80 to 90%. .
• the molar proportion in units of formula (II) or (IV) ranges from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 5 to 25% and even more particularly from 10 to 20%.
• the distribution of the monomers in the polymers of the invention may be, for example, alternating, block (including multiblock) or any.
• hydrophobic modified polymers of this type there may be mentioned in particular the copolymer of AMPS and alcohol methacrylate C12-C14 ethoxylated (non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from Genapol LA-070 and AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Laureth-7 Methacrylate Copolymer) marketed under the name ARISTOFLEX LNC by the company Clariant, and the copolymer of AMPS and ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25 EO) (a copolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, obtained from Genapol T- 250 and AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) marketed under the name ARISTOFLEX HMS by the company Clariant.
• CTFA name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltau
• the polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a sulphonic group, used in the composition according to the invention, is present in an amount of active material ranging, for example, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more preferably still from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
• the composition may comprise water in a content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, and preferably ranging from 40% to 70% by weight. % in weight.
• the water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.
• the composition may further comprise an organic solvent which is miscible with water at room temperature (25 ° C.), especially chosen from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as alkyl (C 1 -C 4) ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol alkyl (C 1 -C 4) alkyl ethers, di - or triethylene glycol; and their mixtures.
• an organic solvent which is miscible with water at room temperature (25 ° C.
• monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon
• composition according to the invention may comprise an organic solvent which is miscible with water at ambient temperature, in particular a polyol, in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% to 15% by weight.
• the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3.0 to 8.0, preferably ranging from 4.0 to 8.0, preferably ranging from 5.0 to 7.0, and more preferably ranging from , 5 to 6.5.
• the emulsion according to the invention also comprises an oily phase.
• the oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, and preferably ranging from from 5% to 30% by weight.
• the oily phase of the emulsion may comprise other fatty substances such as waxes; gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.
• composition according to the invention may comprise at least one organic photoprotective agent active in the UVA and / or UVB (absorbers), water-soluble or fat-soluble or insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used.
• composition according to the invention having good stability, it is suitable for the formulation of organic UV filters: the UV filters incorporated in the composition are not degraded in the presence of Vitamin C.
• the organic filters are in particular chosen from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives other than those of the invention such as those described in patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469, EP933376, EP507691, EP507692, EP790243, EP944624; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355,
• a nonionic organic protective filter is used.
• the photoprotective agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight. and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight.
• composition according to the invention may further comprise fillers.
• fillers it is necessary to include particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured, and which do not color the composition.
• the fillers can be of any form, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of: talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly- ⁇ -alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride polymeric hollow microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and microcapsul
• the fillers may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise an active agent chosen from desquamating agents capable of acting either by promoting exfoliation or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or the degradation of corneodesmosomes, the moisturizing agents and the depigmenting agents.
• an active agent chosen from desquamating agents capable of acting either by promoting exfoliation or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or the degradation of corneodesmosomes, the moisturizing agents and the depigmenting agents.
• the anti-glycation agents the NO-synthase inhibitors, the 5 ⁇ -reductase inhibitors, the lysyl and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitors, the agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, muscle-relaxing agents, antimicrobial agents, tensing agents, anti-pollution or anti-radical agents, anti-inflammatory agents, active agents lipolytics or having a favorable direct or indirect activity on the decrease of adipose tissue, the agents acting on the microcirculation, and agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells.
• the emulsion according to the invention can have a viscosity, measured at 25 ° C., at a shear rate of 200 min -1 (200 revolutions per minute, ie a frequency of 50 Hz), ranging from 1.5 to 2 Pa.s (15 to 20 poise), and preferably ranging from 1.7 to 1.9 Pa.s (17 to 19 poise).
• the viscosity is measured at 25 ° C with a RHEOMAT 180 viscometer from METTLER equipped with a mobile No. 3, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile (time after which a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotational speed of the mobile), at a shear of 200 min -1 .
• composition according to the invention is in particular intended for topical use, in particular cosmetic or dermatological use.
• the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as preservatives, perfumes, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, salts, surfactants, thickeners, bases.
• adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as preservatives, perfumes, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, salts, surfactants, thickeners, bases.
• the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
• These adjuvants depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase.
• the composition according to the invention can be applied to the skin, the hairs, the eyelashes, the hair, the nails or the lips, according to the use for which it is intended. It can thus be used in a process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, comprising the application of the composition according to the invention to the skin, for example with a view to toning it, regenerating it, smoothing the fine lines of the skin, and / or to fight against skin aging, against the harmful effects of radiation UV and / or to reinforce the cutaneous tissues against the aggressions of the environment.
• composition according to the invention can be used for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation, such as a preparation intended to depigment the skin, the hairs and / or the hair.
• the composition may be a care composition, in particular a skincare product such as a skin care base, a care cream (day cream, night cream, anti-wrinkle cream), a makeup base ; a care composition for the lips (lip balm); a sun protection or self-tanning composition.
• a skincare product such as a skin care base, a care cream (day cream, night cream, anti-wrinkle cream), a makeup base ; a care composition for the lips (lip balm); a sun protection or self-tanning composition.
• the composition may also be a make-up composition, in particular of makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair.
• the makeup composition may be a foundation, a blusher, an eyeshadow, a concealer, a body makeup product.
• the composition is a non-rinsed composition.
• a facial care composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the following composition was prepared: - Sorbitan tristearate (Uniquema SPAN 65 V) 0.9 g - PEG stearate (40 EO) (MYRJ 52 P from Uniquema) 2 g - Cetyl alcohol 2 g - Mixture of mono, distearate (36/64) of glyceryl 1.5 g - Stearic acid 1 g - 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane 3 g 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate 7 g - 2-ethyl hexyl salicylate 5 g - Vaseline oil 4 g - Silicone oil 10 g - Ascorbic acid 3 g - Sodium hydroxide 0.67 g - Xanthan gum 0.2 g - Acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-
• This emulsion has good stability after 8 days at 55 ° C. and after 2 months at room temperature.
• the composition is applied on the face in daily daytime use.
• composition similar to that of Example 1 but not containing xanthan gum was prepared (the amount of 0.2 g was replaced by water) (composition not forming part of the invention).
• composition obtained is unstable after storage for 3 days at 55 ° C., with surface salting out of the oily phase.

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• 2005
  • 2005-01-03 FR FR0550008A patent/FR2880270B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2005-11-28 EP EP05292515A patent/EP1676563A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2005-12-28 JP JP2005376996A patent/JP4209887B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related

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