EP1569603A1 - Tücher zur pflege keratinischer fasern - Google Patents
Tücher zur pflege keratinischer fasernInfo
- Publication number
- EP1569603A1 EP1569603A1 EP03789137A EP03789137A EP1569603A1 EP 1569603 A1 EP1569603 A1 EP 1569603A1 EP 03789137 A EP03789137 A EP 03789137A EP 03789137 A EP03789137 A EP 03789137A EP 1569603 A1 EP1569603 A1 EP 1569603A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- acid
- preferred
- alkyl
- fatty
- alcohol
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0208—Tissues; Wipes; Patches
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
Definitions
- the invention relates to care wipes that are treated with a special solution, and the use of these wipes for the care of keratin fibers.
- Cosmetic products for the care and maintenance of the natural functions of skin and hair are becoming increasingly important.
- the changed consumer habits and fashion trends contribute to this.
- the intensive use of tanning salons has a lasting impact on the structure of skin and hair by UV light.
- These impairments are shown on the skin and hair, for example, by a loss of elasticity.
- the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers.
- special active ingredients for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers.
- this treatment improves the combability, hold and fullness of the hair and reduces the split rate.
- these preparations additionally contain active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents.
- the consumer thus saves one application step; At the same time, the packaging effort is reduced because one product is used less.
- the active substances available both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination preparations generally act preferentially on the hair surface.
- Hair care products are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combability or prevent split ends.
- the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers can be greatly influenced in particular in oxidative and reductive processes such as coloring and perms.
- emulsions for skin care were further optimized in terms of their irritant potential by selecting suitable emulsifiers.
- Mild surfactants are used to clean skin and hair used so as not to put additional strain on skin and hair.
- Refatting substances are used to avoid stimulating sebum production during cleaning.
- UV protection agents and vitamins such as vitamin E are said to reduce the adverse effects of UV light.
- Protein hydrolyzates are used to balance the internal structure of the skin and hair. With plant and algae extracts, for example, the moisture balance of skin and hair can be influenced.
- paper or cloth is understood to mean approximately 3000 different types and articles, some of which can differ considerably in their areas of application and their nature. A number of additives are required for their manufacture, of which fillers (eg chalk or Kaolin) and binders (eg starch) are among the most important ones.
- fillers eg chalk or Kaolin
- binders eg starch
- tissue papers which contains an anhydrous emulsifier (be For example, petrolatum), a carrier (fatty alcohols, fatty acids or fatty alcohol ethoxylates each with 12 to 22 carbon atoms in the fat residue) and surfactants with an HLB value of 4 to 20.
- anhydrous emulsifier be For example, petrolatum
- a carrier fatty alcohols, fatty acids or fatty alcohol ethoxylates each with 12 to 22 carbon atoms in the fat residue
- surfactants with an HLB value of 4 to 20.
- International patent application WO 95/35412 discloses similar tissue papers, water-free mixtures of (a) mineral oils, (b) fatty alcohols or fatty acids and (c) fatty alcohol ethoxylates being used as softeners.
- the international patent application WO 95/16824 relates to tissue papers which Contain mineral oil, fatty alcohol ethoxylates and non-ionic surfactants (sorbitan esters, glucamides). Furthermore, in the international patent application WO 97/30216 softening agents for paper handkerchiefs are described which contain (a) long-chain fatty alcohols, (b) wax esters, (c) nonionic emulsifiers and (d) mineral oil.
- softening agents for paper handkerchiefs which contain (a) long-chain fatty alcohols, (b) wax esters, (c) nonionic emulsifiers and (d) mineral oil.
- tissue towels it is particularly important to improve the soft feel and the sensor technology of the tissue towels and to give these tissue towels a gentle, that is to say non-degreasing but at the same time conditioning and nourishing cleaning performance for keratin fibers.
- tissue papers and / or tissue tissues and / or tissue towels can be constructed in one or more layers.
- the papers have a weight per square meter of 10 to 65, preferably 15 to 30 g and a density of 0.6 g / cm 3 and less.
- tissue papers are toilet paper, paper tissues, facial cleaning tissues, make-up removing tissues, refreshing tissues, household tissues and the like.
- the wipes can contain special active ingredients, for example moisturizers, insect repellents (after-sun wipes), dihydroxyacetone, deodorant active ingredients, surfactants (facial cleansing wipes), nourishing oils, anti-inflammatory active ingredients (baby wipes) and the like.
- appropriate tissue fabrics made from fiber or fleece can also be used.
- the tissue papers can be treated with the cosmetic preparations in a manner known per se, the solution being applied to at least one side of the papers. Basically, all relevant known methods are suitable for this, with the help of which liquids or melts can be applied to more or less solid surfaces, such as spraying, printing (eg flexographic printing), coating (gravure coating), extrusion and combinations of these processes. It it is also possible to soak the cloths with the preparations. After the preparations have been applied, a short drying step can follow. Methods for treating tissue papers with cosmetic preparations are described in detail in the documents WO 95/35411 and WO 97/30216 already mentioned at the outset, to which reference is hereby expressly made.
- An object of the present invention was therefore to provide wet wipes using special surfactants which are free from the problems described.
- the use of concentrates for the preparation of the impregnation solutions for the wet wipes is advantageous.
- the disadvantage is that the concentrates often show a tendency to foam when diluted.
- gel phases can form, which leads to an increased expenditure of time in the preparation of the potion solutions. In both cases, throughput in production is reduced.
- cationic substances especially cationic surfactants, in particular of the esterquat type and / or cationized protein hydrolyzate and / or cationic polymer in combination with polyhydroxy compounds, perform the complex task in an excellent manner.
- Impregnating agents based on this combination of active ingredients prove to be low-viscosity and foam-free during the impregnation process in the manufacture of the wipes.
- the wet wipes impregnated with this active ingredient solution leave very well-maintained and protected and still unaffected keratin fibers.
- the invention relates to care wipes for the care of keratin fibers, which are distinguished in that they are treated with a combination (W) of a) cationic substances (A) and b) polyhydroxy compounds (B).
- keratin fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and in particular human hair.
- Multi-layer tissue towels are preferred according to the invention.
- those tissue towels are preferred according to the invention which have an impermeable and / or partially permeable barrier layer between the individual layers.
- the partially permeable barrier layer can be designed, for example, as a semipermeable membrane.
- two or more impregnation solutions can be applied to one wipe. This can be very particularly preferred in order to effect conditioning on one side of the wet wipes by means of the composition applied to the wipe. The other side can then be rubbed, for example, to dry.
- a further care and / or fixing, fixing impregnation solution can also preferably be applied to the second side.
- the wipes consist of at least 3 layers of impregnated tissue wipes. It is then advantageous for each layer of cloth to be formed as a semipermeable membrane between at least two layers of impregnated cloth.
- the semipermeable membrane is permeable in the direction of at least one of the outer layers of cloth.
- an impregnation solution can be applied to the innermost layer, which is either immiscible and / or not stable with the outer impregnation solution. This makes it possible to offer "two in one wipes" for cleaning and care and / or for care and for styling.
- a layer of wipes which is preferably on the outside, is moistened with a nurturing wetting solution.
- This wetting solution contains at least other components a cationic substance, fatty substances and / or care substances such as proteins and amino acids and, if appropriate, their derivatives, vitamins and Vitamin precursors and plant extracts. These ingredients are described in detail below.
- this embodiment contains active ingredients known to those skilled in the art with repair effects. This includes on the one hand the substance classes mentioned above, but also polyhydroxy compounds such as polyhydroxy acids and saccharides, which are also described below.
- This preferred embodiment can be designed according to the invention in such a way that the cloth is constructed in one layer.
- the cloth is heated to temperatures of 20 to 50 ° C., preferably to 25 to 40 ° C., immediately before or during use.
- the cloth can be heated before use, for example by means of a commercially available hair dryer, a commercially available drying hood, a microwave or other methods of heating.
- a hair dryer or a drying hood is preferably used to heat the cloth lying on the hair or wrapped around individual strands of hair. With the help of the added heat, a more effective effect on the hair is achieved.
- the cloth can remain on the hair for a few seconds up to 10 minutes even without applying heat, or the hair can only be brought into contact with the cloth by repeated wiping.
- a second preferred embodiment is the configuration as a multi-layer cloth.
- a layer of the cloth is built up with an impregnation solution as described above.
- Another layer of cloth is preferably treated with a second impregnation solution.
- this second impregnation solution contains at least one cationic polymer and at least one further polymer, the further polymer preferably being a silicone compound and / or a film-forming polymer.
- it can also be preferred to heat this cloth as described above.
- the particular advantage of this embodiment is that care and the keratin fibers regenerating substances are introduced on and into the fiber with one side.
- the invention includes the different color design of the fabric layers.
- teaching according to the invention also includes the construction of the wipes from several materials, in particular with regard to the absorbency and permeability of the different wipe layers.
- the active ingredient combination according to the invention contains a cationic compound (A) as the first mandatory component.
- Cationic compounds are to be understood as: cationic surfactants (AI) and cationic polymers (A2).
- cationic surfactants can be used particularly preferably as the first class of compounds of the cationic compounds.
- Typical examples of preferred cationic surfactants are especially quaternary ammonium compounds such as tetraalkylammonium compounds, ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
- the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- Hydroxyethyl hydroxycetyl dimmonium chlorides (Dehyquart E) or esterquats can also be used according to the invention as cationic surfactants. The latter are, for example, quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (E5-I),
- R 1 CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms
- R 15 and R 1 independently of one another for hydrogen or R 14 CO
- ml, m2 and m3 in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12, m4 for numbers from 1 to 12 and Y for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
- ester quats which can be used in the context of the invention are products based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, such as they occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils.
- the fatty acids and the triethanolamine can be used in a molar ratio of 1.1: 1 to 3: 1 to produce the quaternized esters.
- an application ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1.9: 1 has proven to be particularly advantageous.
- the preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9 and are derived from technical Ci 6 / ß ⁇ -tallow or palm fatty acid (iodine number 0 to 40).
- quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (E5-I) have proven to be particularly advantageous in which R I4 CO for an acyl radical having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, R 15 for R 15 CO, R 16 for hydrogen, R 17 for a methyl group , ml, m2 and m3 for 0 and Y for methyl sulfate.
- quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines of the formula (E5-II) are also suitable as ester quats.
- R 18 CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms
- R 19 for hydrogen or R CO
- R and R independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms
- m5 and m6 in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12
- Y again represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
- ester quats are the quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines of the formula (E5-III)
- R CO represents an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms
- R represents hydrogen or R 22 CO
- R 24 , R 25 and R 26 independently of one another for alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m7 and m8 in total for 0 or numbers of 1 to 12
- X again represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
- esterquats are substances in which the ester bond is replaced by an amide bond and which preferably follow the formula (E5-IV) based on diethylenetriamine, R 29
- R CO, R and R independently of one another represent alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and Y again represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
- amide ester quats are available on the market, for example, under the Incroquat® (Croda) brand.
- esterquats examples are the products sold under the trademark Stepantex ® , Dehyquart ® and Armocare ® .
- the products Armocare ® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, and D Deehhyyqquuaartrt ®® FF - 7755 ,, DDeehhyyqquuaarrtt ®® CC - 44046, Dehyquart ® L80 and Dehyquart ® AU-35 are individual representatives of these types.
- Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
- alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
- An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
- the cationic surfactants (AI) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred. Furthermore, cationic polymers are to be counted among the cationic compounds.
- Cationic polymers (A2) are understood to mean polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which can be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic. According to the invention, “permanently cationic” means those polymers which have a cationic group irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
- Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups
- Polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a Cl-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have proven to be particularly suitable.
- R -H or -CH 3
- R, R and R are independently selected from Cl-4-alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups
- m 1, 2, 3 or 4
- n is a natural number
- X is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (Gl-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers.
- R 1 stands for a methyl group
- R 2 R 3 and R 4 stand for methyl groups
- m has the value 2.
- Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions.
- halide ions in particular chloride, are preferred.
- a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
- the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether, or AUyl ether of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
- Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
- the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
- a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
- Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)) and Salcare ® SC 96 (approx.
- Copolymers with monomer units according to formula (Gl-I) preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C ⁇ as nonionic monomer units. 4 alkyl ester and methacrylic acid -C -4 alkyl ester. Among these nonionic monomers, acrylamide is particularly preferred. As in the case of the homopolymers described above, these copolymers can also be crosslinked. A preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are in a weight ratio of about 20:80 are available commercially as an approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ® SC 92.
- Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® are commercially available under the names Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® .
- the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
- cationic guar derivatives such as, in particular, the products marketed under the trade names Cosmedia Guar and Jaguar ® ,
- Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate.
- Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755,
- Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as are available under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquatemium 2, Polyquatemium 17, Polyquatemium 18 and Polyquatemium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.
- cationic polymers of the invention are the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic are preferred, for example, chitosan and its derivatives, such as, for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ®. CMF, Hydagen ® HCMF, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are commercially available.
- preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according DE-PS 44 13 686, polymers of the type Po ⁇ yquaternium-37 as well as polysiloxanes having quaternary groups such as Abil ® -Quat - types, the types known as amodimethicone and Quaternium-80th
- cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates.
- the the Protein hydrolysates on which cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
- the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons.
- Preferred cationic protein hydrolyzates are those whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 Daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 Daltons.
- Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
- the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized.
- Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention are those under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Protein Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodi
- the plant-based cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are very particularly preferred.
- the teaching according to the invention also includes the use of several cationic compounds (A). It is preferred if such mixtures each originate from at least one cationic substance from the class of the cationic surfactants and the class of the cationic polymers. Of course, two or more cationic surfactants can also be used together with one or more cationic polymers.
- the second mandatory component is selected from the polyhydroxy compounds.
- Polyhydroxy compounds in the sense of the invention are understood to mean all substances which meet the definition in Römpp's Lexikon der Chemie, Version 2.0 of the CD-ROM edition of 1999, published by Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy bonds to understand organic compounds with at least two hydroxy groups. For the purposes of the present invention, this includes in particular:
- monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by customary and -NH - protective groups known in the literature, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or Acyl groups and also in the form of methyl ethers and as phosphate esters,
- monosaccharides with 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary -OH known in the literature - and -NH - protective groups, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester,
- oligosaccharides with up to 50 monomer units these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary OH and NH protecting groups known in the literature, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups as well as in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester.
- Very particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols having 2 to 12 carbon atoms in the molecular structure. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated.
- the hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably adjacent at the end or separated from one another by the rest of the chain.
- polystyrene resin examples include polyethylene glycol up to a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ether with a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butanediol , 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1,2- Hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 4-cyclo-hexanediol, 1, 2-cyclo-hexanediol, heptaned
- Sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrites, pentites, hexites, threitols, erythritol, adonites, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose are further examples of the polyols according to the invention.
- teaching according to the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis-trans isomers, diastereomers, epimers, anomers and chiral isomers.
- polyols (B) are in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1 % By weight up to 10% by weight.
- the action of the active compound combination (W) according to the invention can be further increased by fatty substances (D).
- Fat substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
- Linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms can be used as fatty acids (DI).
- Fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms are preferred. These include, for example, the isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol 871 and Emersol ® 875, and
- Isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis). Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, gadacholeic acid, araoleoleic acid, elaoleoleic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
- the fatty acid cuts which are
- the amount used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
- the amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being very particularly advantageous.
- fatty alcohols (D2) can be used saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30, preferably C 0 -C 22 and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 carbon atoms.
- the fatty alcohols derive from preferably natural fatty acids, and it can usually be assumed that they are obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction.
- those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
- Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® , for example Stenol 1618 or Lanette, for example Lanette ® O or Lorol ® , for example Lorol ® C8, Lorol ® C14, Lorol ® C18, Lorol ® C8-18, HD-Ocenol ® , Crodacol ® , e.g.
- the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet or Fluilan be used.
- the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, based on the entire preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight.
- Solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, walnut, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes made of PE or PP can be used according to the invention as natural or synthetic waxes (D3).
- Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
- the amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1
- the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) which can increase the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example:
- oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the liquid components of coconut oil.
- Other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.
- the compounds are available as commercial products l, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
- Ester oils are understood to be the esters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 fatty alcohols.
- the monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
- Examples of fatty acid moieties in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, Isotridecan- acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the decomposition of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo
- fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl Petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, emcyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are used, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's monomer synthesis as a monomer synthet the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.
- isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
- isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
- 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
- stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
- cetyl oleate glycerol triesters caprylate
- coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate Cetiol ® LC
- n-butyl stearate Oleyle cat
- isopropyl palmitate Rosanit ® IPP
- Oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
- lauric acid hexyl ester Cetiol ® A
- di- n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
- myristyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
- Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylacelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 -ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or Dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
- the amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies used in the agents used according to the invention is usually 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, and in particular 0.1-15% by weight. -%.
- a very particularly preferred group of fatty substances (D) are the fatty acid partial glycerides (D5). These fatty acid partial glycerides are monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. When using technical products may also contain small amounts of triglycerides due to the manufacturing process.
- the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (DV),
- R 4 , R 5 and R independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents an acyl radical and at least one of these groups represents hydrogen.
- the sum (m + n + q) represents 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
- R 4 preferably represents an acyl radical and R 5 and R 6 represents hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0.
- Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid , Linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Oleic acid monoglycerides are preferably used.
- the fatty acid partial glyceride is preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, in particular 0.1-10% by weight, based on the total agent.
- the total amount of oil and fat components in the agents according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.5-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.
- the combination of the active ingredient (W) with surfactants (E) has also proven to be advantageous.
- the agents used according to the invention contain surfactants.
- surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
- anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
- amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
- cationic surfactants which in addition to a hydrophobic residue have a positively charged hydrophilic group
- nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.
- Suitable anionic surfactants (El) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups.
- anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the physiologically tolerable salts or the free acids, for example sodium, potassium, magnesium, zinc, calcium, aluminum and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanol- ammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH2-CH2 ⁇ ) ⁇ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear one
- Alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16, - acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms Atoms in the acyl group, Sulphosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl g ppe and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkane sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha Olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
- Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
- Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
- R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
- R 2 is hydrogen
- R 8 CO stands for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
- Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates which are suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts or their formulas with sulfuric acid trioxide with sulfuric acid trioxide or their sulfuric acid adducts with sodium sulfate trichloride.
- Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (III) are preferably used, in which R 8 CO represents a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP-Bl 0 561 825, EP-Bl 0 561 999, DE -Al 42 04 700 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990),
- Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxy with 8 to 18 C- Atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglycer disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates as well as protein fatty acid condensates.
- Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (_) - or -S ⁇ 3 H group in the molecule.
- Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2 -Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group as well as the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
- a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid
- Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 -C 24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SOsH group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts are.
- suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N- alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-
- Alkyltaurines N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
- Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are the N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, the coconut acylaminoethyl amino propionate and the C 1 -C 8 -acyl sarcosine.
- Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain e.g. one polyol, one
- Polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups are, for example
- R represents hydrogen or methyl
- R represents linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w represents numbers from 1 to 20,
- Hydroxy mixed ethers as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and additive products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates,
- the preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide investment products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide Mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid has been proven. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
- the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
- sugar surfactants are an alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside. These sugar surfactants are known nonionic surfactants according to formula (E4-II),
- R 1 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
- G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
- p is a number from 1 to 10.
- the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.
- the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
- the index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
- the value p for a specific alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which usually represents a fractional number.
- Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, preference is given to those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and is in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.
- the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 1 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis.
- the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 1 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms.
- Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above.
- sugar surfactants are fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides, nonionic surfactants of the formula (E4-III),
- the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride.
- a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine
- subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride With regard to the processes for their production, reference is made to US Pat. Nos. 1,985,424, 2,016,962 and 2,703,798 and international patent application WO 92/06984. An overview of this topic by H. Kelkenberg can be found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988).
- the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose.
- the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, as represented by the formula (E4-IV):
- the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R represents hydrogen or an alkyl group and R CO represents the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or emcasic acid or their technical mixtures.
- Fatty acid are particularly preferred N-alkyl glucamides (E4-IV) / ⁇ by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C ⁇ 2 4 coconut oil fatty acid or a corresponding derivative is obtained.
- the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
- the sugar surfactant is preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-15% by weight are particularly preferred. Of course, it is also possible according to the invention to use several sugar surfactants.
- the compounds with alkyl groups used as the surfactant can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
- both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
- “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are obtained as catalysts from the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates.
- narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.
- the surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention. used.
- anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof can be preferred according to the invention.
- the action of the active compound combination (W) according to the invention can be increased by emulsifiers (F).
- Emulsifiers cause water or oil-stable adsorption layers to form at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
- emulsifiers are therefore made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
- An emulsion is to be understood as a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with the use of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
- the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers is based on the substances to be dispersed and the particular external phase as well as the fine particle size of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in “H.-D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 ".
- Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
- alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols for example the commercially available product Montanov ® 68, investment products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide in castor oil and hardened castor oil,
- Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the C atom 3 of the steroid structure and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples for zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosters are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from mushrooms and yeasts.
- Phospholipids include primarily the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphididylcholines from e.g. Egg yolks or plant seeds (e.g. soybeans) are understood.
- Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as, for example, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls PGPH),
- Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
- compositions according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total composition.
- compositions according to the invention can preferably contain at least one non-ionic emulsifier with an HLB value of 5 to 18, according to the 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New in the Rompp-Lexikon Chemie (Ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz) York, (1997), page 1764.
- Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 5-15 can be particularly preferred according to the invention.
- polymers (G) can support the action of the active compound mixture (W) according to the invention.
- polymers are therefore added to the compositions used according to the invention, both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven to be effective.
- the anionic polymers (G2) which can support the action of the active compound combination (W) according to the invention are anionic polymers, which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
- anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
- the acid groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
- Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
- Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be present in whole or in part as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
- the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid which is available for example under the name Rheothik ® l 1-80 is commercially.
- copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferred.
- anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
- Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester.
- Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups.
- a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
- This copolymer can also be crosslinked, the preferred crosslinking agents being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide.
- Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
- the use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component Contains hydrocarbon mixture (C ⁇ -C ⁇ -isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (Laureth-7) has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching according to the invention.
- the sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers sold under the name Simulgel 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 have also proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.
- anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
- Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-preserving polymers.
- a maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene is commercially available under the name Stabileze QM.
- amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers to increase the effect of the active ingredient combination (W) according to the invention.
- amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SOsH groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO " - or -S ⁇ 3 _ -Gmppen contain, and summarized those polymers which contain -COOH or SOsH groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
- amphopolymer which can be used according to the invention is the acrylic resin obtainable under the name amphomer, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group acrylic acid , Methacrylic acid and their simple esters.
- Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Application 2 104 091, European Patent Application 47 714, European Patent Application 217 274, European Patent Application 283 817 and German Patent Application 28 17 369.
- Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which essentially consist of one another
- A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid
- these compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide.
- an alkali metal hydroxide for example, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate ion, are very particularly preferred ; Acrylamido-propyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a).
- Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the polymers mentioned.
- compositions according to the invention can contain nonionic polymers (G4).
- Suitable nonionic polymers are for example:
- Vinylester vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers as are marketed, for example under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF).
- Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
- Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropylcellulose, as they are for example sold under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON). shellac
- Polyvinylpyrrolidones as, for example, sold under the name Luviskol ® (BASF).
- Siloxanes These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to mean those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. at normal pressure.
- Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups. Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP 0612759 Bl.
- the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each contain an ionic and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.
- the polymers (G) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight are particularly preferred.
- Protein hydrolyzates and / or amino acids and their derivatives may also be present in the preparations used according to the invention.
- Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatic catalytic lysed degradation of proteins (proteins) can be obtained.
- protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives, as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
- polymers constructed from amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood to be protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
- L-alanyl-L-proline polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
- ß-amino acids and their derivatives such as ß-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used according to the invention.
- the molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
- protein hydrolysates can be used both in plant and in animal or marine or synthetic origin.
- Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts.
- Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana), Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Kerasol (Croda) distributed.
- protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin e.g. B. soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates.
- Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), DiaMin ® (Diamalt), Lexein ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), Hydrolupin ® (Croda), Hydrosesame ® (Croda), Hydrotritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
- amino acid mixtures obtained in some other way can optionally be used in their place. It is also possible to use derivatives of the protein hydrolyzates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
- the protein hydrolyzates or their derivatives are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the agent as a whole. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.
- the action of the active ingredient combination (W) can be increased by UV filters (I).
- the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. Rather, all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable, the absorption maximum of which lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
- the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
- UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxobom-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl-salicylate (homosalates ), 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (Benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb ® MET, Neo Heliopan ® BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium - and triethanolamine salts (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan ® Hydro), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-l-yl-methane-s
- 4-Amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxobom-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone are preferred , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo- [2.2.
- Preferred UV filters are those whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
- the water-insoluble compound has, in the context of the teaching according to the invention, the higher activity compared to those water-soluble compounds which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups.
- water-insoluble are those UV filters which do not dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to an extent of more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight.
- these compounds should be at least 0.1, in particular at least 1% by weight> soluble in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature). The use of water-insoluble UV filters can therefore be preferred according to the invention.
- those UV filters are preferred which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
- UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
- the structural part U stands for a group that absorbs UV rays.
- This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters mentioned above, which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function. is replaced.
- Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters,
- Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylamino-benzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
- the structure parts U can in principle be selected so that the absorption maximum of the UV filter can be in the UVA (315-400 nm) - as well as in the UVB (280-315nm) - or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range.
- UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
- the structural part U is preferably chosen so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
- the structural part Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group.
- this quaternary ammonium group can be directly connected to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
- one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferably a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a connection between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
- the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) ⁇ -N + R'R 2 R 3 X " , in which x stands for an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 independently of one another stand for Ci 4 -alkyl groups, R stands for a C ⁇ -2 - alkyl group or a benzyl group and X " for a physiologically acceptable anion.
- x preferably represents the number 3, R and R each represent a methyl group and R either for a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
- Physiologically compatible anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions, and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
- inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions
- organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
- Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid amidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (Incrocat ® UV-283) and dodecyl dimethylaminobenzamidopropyl dimethylammonium tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
- the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
- the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
- the UV filters (I) are usually present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.4-2.5% by weight are preferred.
- the effect of the active ingredient combination (W) according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
- Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the active ingredient in combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid.
- the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts are preferred, in which the ammonium ion carries one to three C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups in addition to hydrogen.
- the sodium salt is very particularly preferred.
- the amounts used in the agents according to the invention are 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight.
- the combination of the active ingredient combination (W) with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) has also proven to be advantageous.
- Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred according to the invention.
- vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
- the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
- vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate come into consideration as vitamin A components.
- the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
- the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a. Vitamin Bi (thiamine)
- Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
- Vitamin B 3 The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often listed under this name. According to the invention, preference is given to nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
- panthenol pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone. Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in this group.
- Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
- the compounds of the vitamin B 5 type mentioned are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.
- - Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
- Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
- Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
- Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,
- Vitamin F usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
- Vitamin H The compound (3aS, 4S, 6a ⁇ ) -2-oxohexa- hydrothienol [3,4- ⁇
- Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
- the agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
- Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.
- the effect of the active ingredient mixture (W) can also be increased by the combined use with plant extracts (L).
- These extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
- the extracts from green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention.
- Alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned.
- the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant and in Mix with water, preferred.
- Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
- the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or mixture of extractants used in their extraction.
- mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention may be preferred.
- penetration aids and / or swelling agents include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, monohydrogen phosphates, dihydrogen phosphates or phosphates.
- short-chain carboxylic acids can additionally support the active ingredient combination (W).
- Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which can be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750.
- preferred are saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, very particularly preferred are those with a chain length of 1 to 12 carbon atoms in the chain.
- the short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention can have one, two, three or more carboxy groups.
- carboxylic acids having several carboxy groups preference is given to carboxylic acids having several carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids.
- the carboxy groups can be present in whole or in part as an ester, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxim, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester.
- the carboxylic acids according to the invention can of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring structure.
- the substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, Cl-C8-alkyl, C2-C8-alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkenyl, Aminomethyl, C2-C8 aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups.
- Preferred substituents are C1-C8-alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyl, amino and carboxy groups. Substituents in the ⁇ position are particularly preferred.
- substituents are hydroxyl, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function can optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals.
- preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.
- carboxylic acids are formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, propelaconic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid - acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoyl acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, bicarbamic acid, Dicyan
- n a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y for a COOH group and the other for hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical
- dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI) which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring
- Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) are known in the literature. A manufacturing process can be found, for example, in US Pat. No. 3,753,968.
- the dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization.
- a polyunsaturated fatty acid is usually used as the dicarboxylic acid component.
- the linoleic acid accessible from natural fats and oils is preferred.
- Diels-Alder reactions usually produce mixtures of isomers in which one component is present in excess. According to the invention, these isomer mixtures can be used just like the pure compounds.
- those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds of the formula (NI) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or from can be used according to the invention these compounds are formally formed by the addition of one molecule of water to the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.
- the dicarboxylic acid (mixture) which results from the reaction of linoleic acid with acrylic acid has proven to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexen-l-octanoic acid.
- Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid 1595 ® (manufacturer: Westvaco).
- hydroxycarboxylic acids and in this case in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxydi, tri and polycarboxylic acids together with the active ingredient combination (W).
- W active ingredient combination
- the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred.
- Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
- hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
- Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8 - 22 carbon atoms, e.g. fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
- the esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, e.g.
- polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and poly-tartaric acid and their esters.
- these preparations can in principle contain all further components known to those skilled in the art for such cosmetic compositions.
- non-ionic polymers such as, for example, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
- - Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, for.
- methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as.
- B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
- hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,
- - Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin and diethylene glycol, symmetrical and asymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n- undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether as well as di-tert- butyl ether,
- Fatty alcohols in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
- Monoesters of C8 to C30 - fatty acids with alcohols with 6 to 24 carbon atoms include active ingredients that improve fiber structure, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fatty acids, lactose and lactose, conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, e.g. , B. sunflower oil,
- Phospholipids for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, quaternized amines such as methyl l-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
- Anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole,
- Consistency agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
- Swelling and penetration substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate,
- Reducing agents such as B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cytamine, thio malic acid and ⁇ -mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
- formulations include, for example, creams, lotions, solutions, water, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions based on the teaching of phase inversion, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays, Suitable aerosols and foam aerosols.
- the pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 5 and 11, values from 6 to 10 being particularly preferred. Virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used to adjust this pH.
- Food acids are usually used as acids.
- Edible acids are understood to mean those acids that are ingested as part of normal food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Edible acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred.
- Preparations remaining on the skin and hair have proven to be particularly effective and can therefore represent preferred embodiments of the teaching according to the invention. Remaining on the skin and hair according to the invention are understood to mean those preparations which are not rinsed off or rinsed out of the skin or from the hair again in the course of the treatment after a period of from a few seconds to an hour using water or an aqueous solution , Rather, the preparations remain on the skin or hair until the next wash.
- microemulsions are also understood to be so-called “P ⁇ T” emulsions.
- P ⁇ T oil-in-water
- these emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present at room temperature as an oil-in-water (O ⁇ V) emulsion.
- O ⁇ V oil-in-water
- microemulsions form in a certain temperature range (usually referred to as phase inversion temperature or “PIT”), which convert to water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions when heated further.
- PIT phase inversion temperature
- O / W emulsions are formed, which are also present at room temperature as microemulsions with an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm, in particular with a particle diameter of about 100-300 nm. Details regarding these very stable, low-viscosity systems, for which the term " PIT emulsions "has generally been adopted, can be found in a large number of publications, for which the publications in Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985) and Adv. Colloid Interface Sci 58, 119-149 (1995).
- those micro- or “PIT” emulsions can be preferred which have an average particle diameter of approximately 200 nm.
- the microemulsions according to the invention can be produced, for example, by first determining the phase inversion temperature of the system by heating a sample of the emulsion prepared in the customary manner and using a conductivity meter to determine the temperature at which the conductivity decreases sharply.
- the decrease in the specific conductivity of the O / W emulsion initially present generally decreases over a temperature range of 2 to 8 ° C from originally more than 1 mS / cm to values below 0.1 mS / cm. This temperature range then corresponds to the phase inversion temperature range.
- the emulsion initially produced as usual, from the oil component, nonionic emulsifier, at least parts of the water and, if appropriate, further components can be heated to a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range, then cooled and optionally add other components as well as the remaining water.
- the microemulsion can also be produced directly at a temperature which is within or above the Phase inversion temperature range. The microemulsion thus produced is then cooled to a temperature below the phase inversion temperature range, usually room temperature.
- a 12.5 cm 2 piece of MD 2000 fiber fleece (order number El 8 A 40 from Corovin) is sprayed with 1.0 g of the following formulation 1:
- Another damaged strand of hair was treated with the formulation as a conditioner in a conventional manner.
- the strand of hair was treated with 1 g of the formulation for 1 minute and rinsed under running water for 30 seconds. After drying and conditioning (24 h at room temperature and approx. 50% relative air humidity), the two strands of hair were compared with one another.
- This formulation can be applied to both polypropylene fibers and viscose fibers. To use the care cloth is repeatedly stroked, in particular over the keratin fibers.
- the keratin fibers are wrapped in the area of the hair tips with the cloth and heated with a hair dryer.
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Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
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DE2002158394 DE10258394A1 (de) | 2002-12-12 | 2002-12-12 | Tücher zur Pflege keratinischer Fasern |
DE10258394 | 2002-12-12 | ||
PCT/EP2003/013745 WO2004052322A1 (de) | 2002-12-12 | 2003-12-05 | Tücher zur pflege keratinischer fasern |
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EP (1) | EP1569603A1 (de) |
DE (1) | DE10258394A1 (de) |
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DE102004030886A1 (de) * | 2004-06-25 | 2006-02-09 | Henkel Kgaa | Haarkonditionierende Mittel mit aminofunktionellen Siliconen |
US10975340B2 (en) * | 2017-05-16 | 2021-04-13 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Active agent-containing fibrous structure articles |
US10975339B2 (en) * | 2017-05-16 | 2021-04-13 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Active agent-containing articles |
US10975338B2 (en) * | 2017-05-16 | 2021-04-13 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Active agent-containing three-dimensional articles |
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DE19961358A1 (de) * | 1999-12-17 | 2001-06-21 | Cognis Deutschland Gmbh | Verfahren zur kosmetischen Behandlung der menschlichen Haut |
DE10102543A1 (de) * | 2001-01-19 | 2002-07-25 | Cognis Deutschland Gmbh | Emulsionen auf Basis spezieller Emulgatoren |
DE10117500A1 (de) * | 2001-04-07 | 2002-10-17 | Cognis Deutschland Gmbh | Reinigungstücher zur Haarpflege |
DE10117502A1 (de) * | 2001-04-07 | 2002-10-17 | Cognis Deutschland Gmbh | Kosmetiktücher zur Haarpflege |
US20030091617A1 (en) * | 2001-06-07 | 2003-05-15 | Mrozinski James S. | Gel-coated oil absorbing skin wipes |
DE10162184A1 (de) * | 2001-10-26 | 2003-05-08 | Cognis Deutschland Gmbh | Imprägnierlösung für Kosmetiktücher |
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2002
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2003
- 2003-12-05 WO PCT/EP2003/013745 patent/WO2004052322A1/de not_active Application Discontinuation
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