EP1478326A1 - Two-phase cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing a microemulsion - Google Patents

Two-phase cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing a microemulsion

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Publication number
EP1478326A1
EP1478326A1 EP03708099A EP03708099A EP1478326A1 EP 1478326 A1 EP1478326 A1 EP 1478326A1 EP 03708099 A EP03708099 A EP 03708099A EP 03708099 A EP03708099 A EP 03708099A EP 1478326 A1 EP1478326 A1 EP 1478326A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
phase
preparations according
advantageous
acid
cosmetic
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP03708099A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Jens Schulz
Anja Göppel
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1478326A1 publication Critical patent/EP1478326A1/en
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/068—Microemulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/02—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings containing insect repellants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, the first phase being formed from a microemulsion and the second phase from a lipophilic phase, and the preparation and use of the preparation.
  • the skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the most important is the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
  • a widely used cosmetic and dermatological form of preparation is the emulsion.
  • finely dispersed droplets of the second phase enclosed by an emulsifier shell, are present in one phase. If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk).
  • O / W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • the basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water.
  • a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g. butter) is the opposite principle, whereby the basic character is determined by the oil.
  • finely dispersed droplets of the first phase are emulsified in such droplets.
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • Formula II applies to a group of emulsifiers whose hydrophilic portion consists only of ethylene oxide units
  • Emulsifiers with HLB values of 6-8 are generally W / O emulsifiers, those with HLB values of 8-18 are generally O / W emulsifiers.
  • Hydrophilic emulsifiers (with high HLB values) are usually O / W emulsifiers. Accordingly, hydrophobic or lipophilic emulsifiers (with low HLB values) are generally W / O emulsifiers.
  • Emulsions are colored milky white without any other coloring additives. Finer "macro-emulsions", whose droplet diameters are in the range from about 500 nm to about 1 ⁇ m, are also white and usually have a high viscosity. The droplet diameter of microemulsions, on the other hand, is in the range from about 10 "3 ⁇ m to about 0.5 ⁇ m. Microemulsions are translucent or bluish white and mostly of low viscosity. The advantage of microemulsions is that active substances can be present in a much finer disperse in the disperse phase than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions".
  • phase inversion temperature range PIT
  • emulsifier-stabilized O / W emulsions generally undergo reversible phase inversion when the phase inversion temperature is exceeded, that is to say the inner phase becomes the outer phase. You get first a W / O emulsion. If the inverted emulsion is cooled again below the phase inversion temperature, O / W emulsions with particularly small droplet sizes (microemulsions) can result.
  • phase inversion depends on different external parameters.
  • the phase inversion range can be represented mathematically as a set of points within the rectilinear coordinate system ⁇ , which is formed by the quantities temperature, pH and concentration of a suitable emulsifier or a mixture of emulsifiers in the preparation, according to:
  • ⁇ ⁇ O, ⁇ , a, m ⁇ , with O - coordinate origin ⁇ - temperature a - pH value m concentration
  • ⁇ ⁇ O, ⁇ , a, m- ,, m 2 , ..., m leads.
  • the phase inversion range ⁇ represents in the mathematical sense a coherent area or a large number of coherent areas within the coordinate system ⁇ .
  • ⁇ represents the total set of coordinate points K ( ⁇ , a, m 1f m 2 , ..., mi), which are according to the invention Determine mixtures of water and oil phase, i emulsifiers according to the invention of concentration nrij at temperature ⁇ and pH a, and for which it applies that phase inversion occurs when changing from a coordinate K-, $ ⁇ to a coordinate K 2 e ⁇ ,
  • microemulsions also called PIT emulsions
  • PIT emulsions are externally uniform, homogeneous preparations.
  • consumers are increasingly perceiving them as monotonous and boring.
  • the possibilities for making these emulsions more visually attractive are limited.
  • consumers are tired of the flood of ready-to-use finished products and are inspired by the desire to prepare the cosmetic formulations themselves in order to do "something good” afterwards.
  • two-phase cosmetic preparations are increasingly being offered which the customer can convert into a homogeneous emulsion by simply shaking and then use.
  • the object is achieved by two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, the first phase being formed from a microemulsion and the second phase from a lipophilic phase.
  • the preparations according to the invention are distinguished in that they separate again particularly quickly.
  • the migration of ingredients from the lipophilic is surprising in the preparations according to the invention Phase of the microemulsion largely suppressed into the separate lipophilic phase and vice versa. This not only leads to particularly long-term stable preparations. It also enables the targeted control of the absorption of ingredients through the skin and hair in an unforeseen manner.
  • Two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention means that the microemulsion and lipophilic phase are present separately on top of each other.
  • the microemulsion is considered to be a phase in this regard, although it is of course known to those skilled in the art that microemulsions per se are formed from two phases homogenized with one another.
  • the microemulsion is long-term stable. This means that segregation or phase separation does not occur over a longer period (months, years).
  • the peculiarity of the present invention, which is to be expressed with the term two-phase is now that the microemulsion and the lipophilic phase, which is present separately as the second phase, are present in layers separated from one another.
  • phase or layers can, for example, be emulsified briefly to give a homogeneous emulsion which, however, is not stable over the long term, but rather segregates again into a layered microemulsion and lipophilic phase over a period of minutes, hours or days.
  • the preparations according to the invention contain the separate lipophilic phase in an amount of 5 to 95% by volume, in particular 10 to 90% by volume, based on the total volume of the formulation.
  • microemulsion according to the invention is advantageously an O ⁇ / V emulsion.
  • the preparations according to the invention are distinguished in that they contain emulsifiers of the microemulsion in a concentration of 0.1 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the weight of the microemulsion.
  • the droplet size of the inner phase of the microemulsion is 10 nm to 500 nm and particularly preferably 10 nm to 300 nm.
  • the microemulsion and the separate lipophilic phase can each appear transparent (translucent) or translucent (translucent).
  • Preparations in which at least one of the two phases is not transparent are also advantageous in the sense of the present invention.
  • emulsifiers in addition to the emulsifiers known in cosmetic preparations, those whose lipophilicity is either dependent on the pH value, such that the lipophilicity increases or decreases by increasing or decreasing the pH value, are particularly advantageous, it being irrelevant which of the two possibilities of change the lipophilicity is brought about by increasing or decreasing the pH, and / or the lipophilicity is dependent on the temperature, in such a way that the lipophilicity increases with increasing temperature and the hydrophilicity increases with decreasing temperature.
  • Such emulsifiers are, for example, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, glycol distearate, Glykoldilaurat, Diethylenglykoldilaurat, sorbitan trioleate, Glykololeat, glyceryl dilaurate, sorbitan tristearate, propylene glycol stearate, Propylenglycoilaurat, Propylenglycoldistearat, sucrose distearate, PEG-3 castor oil, Pentaerythritylmonostearat, Pentaerythritylsesquioleat , Glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, propylene glycol stearate, glyceryl diisostearate, pentaerythrityl monooleate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, glyce
  • the emulsifier or emulsifiers are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which are completely or partially neutralized with customary alkalis (such as sodium and potassium hydroxide, sodium and potassium carbonate and mono- and triethanolamine).
  • customary alkalis such as sodium and potassium hydroxide, sodium and potassium carbonate and mono- and triethanolamine.
  • stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates, and myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.
  • emulsifier from the group of fatty alcohols which have a chain length of more than 8 carbon atoms.
  • Z are particularly preferred.
  • the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 10-18, very particularly preferably partly with HLB values of 11 - 15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers have saturated residues R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R 'or if there are isoalkyl derivatives, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.
  • fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols).
  • Sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.
  • Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.
  • Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative.
  • Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.
  • polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprolate caprinate 20, glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl iso stearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate cocoat to choose.
  • sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
  • the list of emulsifiers mentioned which can be used in the sense of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the aqueous phase of the microemulsion of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those with a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols with a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol , Ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the Group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives
  • B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.
  • the separate lipophilic phase and the oil phase of the microemulsion of the formulations according to the invention are advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B.
  • cocoglyceride olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • z. B natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyidodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucyleruc
  • oil phases can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.
  • Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl saiicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).
  • B. butyl octyl saiicylate for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall
  • hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof Hallstar AB
  • Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R diethyl hexyl naphthalate
  • oil phases can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched oils.
  • non-polar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched oils.
  • hydrocarbons and waxes in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phases can also advantageously have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups) are saturated).
  • the silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abu 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiioxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available from Th. Goldschmidt as different types of abil wax.
  • silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example Cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiioxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:
  • Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R 2 SiO and RSiO 1 ⁇ 5 and / or R 3 SiO 0 , 5 and / or SiO 2 , the individual radicals R each independently of one another hydrogen, C 1-2 -AlK- (such as for example methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R 2 SiO to RSiO ⁇ is selected from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1;
  • Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) which contains silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) which contains unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used so chosen the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2) • is in the range from 1 to 20 mol% if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and • in the range from 1 to 50 mol% % is when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.
  • the siloxane elastomer or elastomers are advantageously in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
  • siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder according to the invention are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof. It is very particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils which are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof.
  • Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 are particularly advantageous, especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ available from Grant Industries Inc. Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.
  • the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel composed of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , each based on the total weight of the gel.
  • the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) is in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain further cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously be used as sunscreens. However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain a content of further UV protection substances. So z. B. usually incorporated into self-tanning products, day care products or make-up products UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • the preparations in the sense of the present invention advantageously contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment reflecting and / or absorbing UV light.
  • the formulations can, if not necessary, possibly also one or more contain more organic and / or inorganic pigments than UV filter substances, which can be present in the water and / or oil phase
  • UV protective substances are exclusively in one of the two phases or in both phases of the preparations according to the invention.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium ( BaSO 4 ).
  • the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer.
  • the various surface coatings can also contain water.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • Al 2 O 3 aluminum oxide
  • Al (OH) 3 aluminum hydroxide Al
  • aluminum oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n
  • silicon dioxide SiO 2
  • SiSO barium sulfate
  • Fe 2 O 3 iron oxide
  • Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • dimethylpolysiloxane also: dimethicone
  • methicone methylpolysiloxane
  • simethicone a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel
  • alginic acid can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxan
  • Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:
  • Benzoxazole derivatives e.g. the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no .: 288254-16-0), which is available for example under the trade name UVASorb® K2A from 3V Sigma.
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B. • 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-Ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine
  • Tinosorb® S (INCI: Aniso Triazin), which is sold under the trade name Tinosorb® S by
  • Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V; 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also:
  • UVINUL® T 150 is sold.
  • An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex ,
  • the other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g.
  • ⁇ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably also contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzo
  • the UV light protection filters advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • Particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention contain, as the UV filter, one or more triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, UV filters which are liquid at room temperature and / or the inorganic pigments, in particular titanium dioxide.
  • Embodiments of the present invention which contain at least one water-soluble UV filter are also particularly advantageous.
  • film formers may also be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting).
  • Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.
  • Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
  • copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual and the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, also for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries, such as are usually used in such preparations, for.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries such as are usually used in such preparations, for.
  • preservatives preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, Oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • antioxidants are generally preferred. According to the invention, all for cosmetic and / or dermatological At one turns antioxidants customary or suitable to be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as DL-camosin, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as DL-camosin, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g.
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxin, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearylthio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthionine sulfoximines in very low tolerable doses (for example pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), furthermore (Metal) chelators (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, lininoic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives
  • ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • Vitamin E acetate Vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ⁇ -glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, camosin, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguoyak resin acid, nordihydrophonic acid, derihutrophonic acid, derihutyro acid derivatives, and urethane acid trihydroxybenzoate derivatives , Mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO 4 ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), Stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipid
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 7% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • selected recipes according to the invention are suitable, which e.g. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as. B. occur during skin aging (eg wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as. B. occur during skin aging (eg wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • ⁇ -glycosylrutin is the antioxidant, it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more wash-active anionic, cationic, amphoteric and / or non-ionic surfactants.
  • Products of this type can be used according to the invention particularly advantageously for cleaning the skin and appendages (hair, nails). It is particularly advantageous to choose the wash-active surfactant or surfactants according to the invention from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, very particularly advantageous are those which have an HLB value of more than 35.
  • Acylamino acids and their salts such as ⁇ acylglutamates, especially sodium acylglutamate
  • ⁇ sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium and sodium,
  • Sulfonic acids and their salts such as ⁇ acyl isethionate, for example sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
  • ⁇ sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl, Dinatriumlaurethsulfo- succinate, disodium and disodium MEA sulphosuccinate
  • sulfuric acid esters such as
  • alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium pareth sulfate, and sodium C 12-13,
  • Quaternary surfactants are particularly advantageous washing-active cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention. Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Benzalkonium chloride, alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysultain are advantageous.
  • Acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamines for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
  • washing active non-ionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are: ⁇ alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,
  • esters formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
  • ⁇ ethers for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryiglucoside, decylglycoside and cocoglycoside.
  • ⁇ taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • ⁇ ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
  • organophosphate and salts such as DEA oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate
  • Alkyl sulfonates for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C 12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
  • Further advantageous non-ionic surfactants are alcohols.
  • acyl glutamates such as di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate
  • ⁇ acyl peptides for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
  • carboxylic acids and derivatives such as
  • lauric acid aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc decylate
  • ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.
  • the content of one or more detergent surfactants in the cosmetic preparation is selected from the range from 0.1 to 25% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 10 to 20% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain polysorbates.
  • Polysorbates are a class of compounds derived from sorbitan, a furan derivative obtained from sorbitol by splitting off two equivalents of water.
  • the hydroxyl groups of sorbitan are etherified with polyethylene glycols, the ends of which can be esterified with fatty acids. They can be generalized by the formula
  • these are advantageously used in a concentration of 0.1 to 5% by weight and in particular in a concentration of 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, individually or as a mixture of several polysorbates.
  • thickeners are used in the preparations according to the invention.
  • these can advantageously be selected from the group of gums.
  • Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention.
  • derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8
  • polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives as advantageous thickeners according to the invention.
  • cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose as advantageous thickeners according to the invention.
  • Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmoriilonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form as thickeners, e.g. Stearylalkonium hektorite.
  • silica gels can also advantageously be used.
  • the polyacrylates include e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, ETD 2001, ETD 2020, ETD 2050 or Pemulen TR1 & TR2).
  • Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, ETD 2001, ETD 2020, ETD 2050 or Pemulen TR1 & TR2).
  • polymers e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.
  • the thickeners according to the invention are particularly advantageous according to the invention for regulating the separation or separation speed of the two phases according to the invention: the separate lipophilic phase and the microemulsion can be homogenized for a limited time by shaking or stirring.
  • the separation or separation speed of the separate lipophilic phase and microemulsion can be regulated according to the invention by adding hydrophobic and / or hydrophilic thickeners. This regulation is based on the principle that by increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the microemulsion by adding in particular hydrophilic thickeners and / or by increasing the viscosity of the additional oil phase, the separation or separation speed is reduced.
  • Particularly preferred embodiments of the preparation according to the invention are characterized in that after homogenization by shaking, the phases are separated again within 30 seconds to 2 hours.
  • preparations according to the invention can advantageously, if not necessarily, contain preservatives.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant TM), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L , Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, Benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservation system usually also advantageously includes preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soy, etc.
  • large amounts of acidic aluminum and / or aluminum / zirconium salts can advantageously be incorporated stably into the preparation.
  • 5 to 40% by weight, in particular 10 to 20% by weight, aluminum chlorohydrate and / or aluminum / zirconium chlorohydrate can be stably incorporated into the preparations according to the invention.
  • the concentration ranges described here relate to the so-called active contents of the antiperspirant complexes: for the aluminum compounds to anhydrous complexes, for the aluminum / zirconium compounds to anhydrous and buffer-free complexes.
  • Glycine is usually used here as a buffer.
  • Aluminum salts such as aluminum chloride AICI 3 , aluminum sulfate AI 2 (SO) 3
  • Aluminum-zirconium salts • Aluminum / zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine [AI 4 Zr (OH) 13 CI 3 ] x H 2 O x Gly Standard Al / Zr complexes: Rezal 33GP (Reheis), AZG-7164 (Summit), zirconal
  • L435G (Giulini) Activated Al / Zr complexes: Reach AZP 855 (Reheis), AAZG-6313-15 (Summit), Zirkonal AP4G (Giulini)
  • glycine-free aluminum / zirconium salts can also be advantageous.
  • antiperspirants from the raw material classes aluminum and aluminum / zirconium salts should not be limited to the commercially available, mostly aqueous solutions, such as Locron L (Clariant), but it can also be advantageous to use the commercially available anhydrous solutions Powder of the same raw materials by incorporation into the claimed formulations, such as Locron P (Clariant).
  • antiperspirants are based on other metals, such as e.g. aluminum or zirconium. Beryllium, titanium, hafnium.
  • antiperspirant active ingredients should not be limited to metal-containing raw materials, but also compounds that contain non-metals such as boron and those that belong to the field of organic chemistry, such as e.g. Anticholinergics.
  • polymers which can be both metal-containing and metal-free are also advantageous.
  • compositions according to the invention optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, further plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides , Repellents, self-tanners, depigmenting agents, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as emulsifiers, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • additives customary in cosmetics for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, further plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides , Repellents, self-tanners, depigmenting agents, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moistur
  • compositions according to the invention can also be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention.
  • these include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, glucocorticoids (e.g. hydrocortisone) as well as plant active ingredients such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, sweet corn root.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain self-tanning substances, such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Glycerol aldehyde, hydroxymethylglyoxal, ⁇ -dialdehyde, erythrulose, 6-Aldo-D-fructose, ninhydrin, 5-hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone (juglone), 2-hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone (Lawson) can also be used advantageously according to the invention Self-tanning substances are used.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • B N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Meta-delphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) - ethyl propionate (available under the trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535 from Merck)
  • the repellents can be used both individually and in combination.
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the skin layer (also called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the layer on the home.
  • TEWL trans-epidermal water loss
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides.
  • hyaluronic acid chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide
  • chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.
  • Moisturizers can also be used as anti-wrinkle agents for prophylaxis and treatment. treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur in skin aging, are used.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. According to the invention, the individual can advantageously
  • Phases of the preparation may be colored differently. Embodiments of the
  • Cosmetics regulation or the EC list of cosmetic colorants can be selected. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2 , -azonaphthalene-1'- sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid
  • oil-soluble natural dyes such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.
  • Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
  • Natural pearlescent pigments such as. B.
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI) 3rd layer substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
  • Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
  • B the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like.
  • -Advantages are B. with TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 coated SiO 2 particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.
  • Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred. Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 from BASF.
  • effect pigments which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue).
  • the glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in combination, and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
  • the total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageous from the range from Z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which u. a. is firmly available from Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Bayrein CX 100.
  • EDDS EDTA
  • [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS) which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest
  • pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate which, for. B.
  • Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodis
  • the viscosities of the preparations according to the invention are advantageously between aqueous thin (0-700 mPas) up to a flowable consistency (700-4000 mPas).
  • the very low viscosity preparations could be used in containers with pump systems as a spray or as a fluid.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention as an ointment, cream or lotion. Their use in the form of a spray, e.g. a pump spray advantageous according to the invention,. the preparations can advantageously also be foamed.
  • cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims is also a sunscreen, self-tanning agent and / or insect repellent.
  • the preparations according to the invention can be produced by the following method according to the invention:
  • Step 1 Production of a microemulsion according to a process common to the person skilled in the art, such as the phase inversion temperature process (PIT process).
  • PIT process phase inversion temperature process
  • the mixing can be done by simple stirring up to a strong homogenization.
  • one of the two phases (the microemulsion or the lipophilic phase) is placed in a sufficiently large container and then the other phase is added with stirring.
  • the rate of segregation can be influenced by the strength of the stirring or homogenization.
  • the complete separation of the two phases is slowed down by a high energy input. It is advisable to ensure a sufficiently good homogenization before filling into the final containers or to stir during filling so that a constant phase-volume ratio can be maintained.
  • Another possibility of mixing the two phases is filling the final containers one after the other (layered). With this type of filling, usually the volumes of the individual phases can be set even more precisely.
  • phase-volume ratios of the microemulsion to the aqueous or lipophilic phase can be set in a ratio of 1: 3 to 3: 1 for the 2-phase product.

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Abstract

Disclosed are two-phase cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations, the first phase of which is formed by a microemulsion while the second phase is formed by a lipophilic phase.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg
Zweiphasiqe kosmetische oder dermatoloqische Zubereitungen mit einerTwo-phase cosmetic or dermatological preparations with one
Mikroemulsionmicroemulsion
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft zweiphasige kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, wobei die erste Phase aus einer Mikroemulsion und die zweite Phase aus einer lipophilen Phase gebildet wird, sowie die Herstellung und Verwendung der Zubereitung.The present invention relates to two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, the first phase being formed from a microemulsion and the second phase from a lipophilic phase, and the preparation and use of the preparation.
Der Wunsch, schön und attraktiv auszusehen, ist von Natur aus im Menschen verwurzelt. Auch wenn das Schönheitsideal im Laufe der Zeit Wandlungen erfahren hat, so ist das Streben nach einem makellosen Äußeren, immer das Ziel der Menschen gewesen, da ein sympathisches Erscheinungsbild ihr Selbstwertgefühl und die Anziehungskraft auf ihre Mitmenschen erhöht. Einen wesentlichen Anteil an einem schönen und attraktiven Äußeren hat dabei der Zustand und das Aussehen der Haut.The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in people. Even if the ideal of beauty has undergone changes over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been the goal of people, because a sympathetic appearance increases their self-esteem and the attraction to their fellow human beings. The condition and appearance of the skin play an important part in creating a beautiful and attractive exterior.
Die Haut ist das größte Organ des Menschen. Unter ihren vielen Funktionen (beispielsweise zur Wärmeregulation und als Sinnesorgan) ist die Barrierefunktion, die das Austrocknen der Haut (und damit letztlich des gesamten Organismus) verhindert, die wohl wichtigste. Gleichzeitig wirkt die Haut als Schutzeinrichtung gegen das Eindringen und die Aufnahme von außen kommender Stoffe. Bewirkt wird diese Barrierefunktion , durch die Epidermis, welche als äußerste Schicht die eigentliche Schutzhülle gegenüber der Umwelt bildet. Mit etwa einem Zehntel der Gesamtdicke ist .sie gleichzeitig die dünnste Schicht der Haut.The skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the most important is the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
Damit die Haut ihre biologischen Funktionen im vollen Umfang erfüllen kann, bedarf sie der regelmäßigen Reinigung und Pflege sowie dem Schutz vor UV-Strahlung. Die Reinigung der Haut dient dabei der Entfernung von Schmutz, Schweiß und Resten abgestorbener Hautpartikel, die einen idealen Nährboden für Krankheitserreger und Parasiten aller Art bilden. Hautpflegeprodukte, in der Regel Cremes, Salben oder Lotionen, dienen meist der Befeuchtung und Rückfettung der Haut. Häufig sind ihnen Wirkstoffe zugesetzt, welche die Haut regenerieren und beispielsweise ihre vorzeitige Alterung (z.B. das Entstehen von Fältchen, Falten) verhindern und vermindern sollen. Zum Schutz vor der schädlichen UV-Strahlung des Sonnenlichtes sind vielen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Hautpflegeprodukten UV-Lichtschutzfilter zugesetzt. Auch werden spezielle Sonnenschutzprodukte, deren primäre Aufgabe der Schutz vor UV-Strahung ist, in einer großen Produktvielfalt angeboten.In order for the skin to fully fulfill its biological functions, it needs regular cleaning and care as well as protection against UV radiation. The cleaning of the skin serves to remove dirt, sweat and residues of dead skin particles, which form an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products, usually creams, ointments or lotions, mostly serve to moisturize and regrease the skin. Are common to them Active ingredients added to regenerate the skin and, for example, to prevent and reduce its premature aging (e.g. the appearance of wrinkles, wrinkles). To protect against the harmful UV radiation of sunlight, UV cosmetic filters are added to many cosmetic and dermatological skin care products. Special sun protection products, whose primary task is to protect against UV radiation, are also offered in a wide range of products.
Eine weitverbreitete kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungsform ist die Emulsion. In einfachen Emulsionen liegen in der einen Phase feindisperse, von einer Emulgatorhülle umschlossene Tröpfchen der zweiten Phase vor. Sind die beiden Flüssigkeiten Wasser und Öl und liegen Öltröpfchen fein verteilt in Wasser vor, so handelt es sich um eine ÖI-in-Wasser-Emulsion (O/W-Emulsion, z. B. Milch). Der Grundcharakter einer O/W-Emulsion ist durch das Wasser geprägt. Bei einer Wasser-in- Öl-Emulsion (W/O-Emulsion, z. B. Butter) handelt es sich um das umgekehrte Prinzip, wobei der Grundcharakter hier durch das Öl bestimmt wird. In einer multiplen Emulsion (zweiten Grades) hingegen sind in solchen Tröpfchen feiner disperse Tröpfchen der ersten Phase emulgiert.A widely used cosmetic and dermatological form of preparation is the emulsion. In simple emulsions, finely dispersed droplets of the second phase, enclosed by an emulsifier shell, are present in one phase. If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g. butter) is the opposite principle, whereby the basic character is determined by the oil. In contrast, in a multiple emulsion (second degree), finely dispersed droplets of the first phase are emulsified in such droplets.
Um eine Stabilität der Emulsion zu erreichen, werden in der Regel Emulgatoren zugesetzt, die die Grenzflächenspannung zwischen den Phasen herabsetzten, damit hohe innere Oberflächen und somit niedrige Tröpfchengrößen erreichbar machen. Dabei spielt die Polarität des Emulgators eine bedeutende Rolle. Nichtionische Emulgatoren lassen sich durch den HLB-Wert (HLB = Hydrophil-Lipophil-Balance) beschreiben. Die Definition für den HLB-Wert ist für Polyolfettsäureester gegeben durch die Formel I HLB = 20 * ( 1 - S/A)In order to achieve stability of the emulsion, emulsifiers are generally added which reduce the interfacial tension between the phases so that high internal surfaces and thus small droplet sizes can be achieved. The polarity of the emulsifier plays an important role here. Non-ionic emulsifiers can be described by the HLB value (HLB = hydrophilic-lipophilic balance). The definition for the HLB value for polyol fatty acid esters is given by the formula I HLB = 20 * (1 - S / A)
Für eine Gruppe von Emulgatoren, deren hydrophiler Anteil nur aus Ethylenoxideinheiten besteht, gilt die Formel IIFormula II applies to a group of emulsifiers whose hydrophilic portion consists only of ethylene oxide units
HLB = E/5 wobei S = Verseifungszahl des Esters, A = Säurezahl der zurückgewonnen SäureHLB = E / 5 where S = saponification number of the ester, A = acid number of the recovered acid
E = Massenanteil Ethylenoxid (in %) am Gesamtmolekül bedeuten. Emulgatoren mit HLB-Werten von 6-8 sind im allgemeinen W/O-Emulgatoren, solche mit HLB-Werten von 8-18 sind im allgemeinen O/W-Emulgatoren.E = mass fraction of ethylene oxide (in%) in the total molecule. Emulsifiers with HLB values of 6-8 are generally W / O emulsifiers, those with HLB values of 8-18 are generally O / W emulsifiers.
Literatur: "Kosmetik - Entwicklung, Herstellung und Anwendung kosmetischer Mittel"; W. Umbach (Hrsg.), Georg Thieme Verlag 1988.Literature: "Cosmetics - Development, production and application of cosmetic products"; W. Umbach (ed.), Georg Thieme Verlag 1988.
Hydrophile Emulgatoren (mit hohen HLB-Werten) sind in der Regel O/W-Emulgatoren. Demgemäß sind hydrophobe oder lipophile Emulgatoren (mit niedrigen HLB-Werten) in der Regel W/O-Emulgatoren.Hydrophilic emulsifiers (with high HLB values) are usually O / W emulsifiers. Accordingly, hydrophobic or lipophilic emulsifiers (with low HLB values) are generally W / O emulsifiers.
Transparenz und Viskosität einer Emulsion hängen von der Tröpfchengröße derThe transparency and viscosity of an emulsion depend on the droplet size
• Emulsionen ab. Die Tröpfchendurchmesser der gewöhnlichen „einfachen", also nichtmultiplen Emulsionen liegen im Bereich von ca. 1 μm bis ca. 50 μm. Solche• emulsions. The droplet diameters of the usual “simple”, ie non-multiple emulsions are in the range from approx. 1 μm to approx. 50 μm
Emulsionen sind, ohne weitere färbende Zusätze, milchig-weiß gefärbt. Feinere „Makro- emulsionen", deren Tröpfchendurchmesser im Bereich von ca. 500 nm bis ca. 1 μm liegen, sind ebenfalls weiß und haben für gewöhnlich eine hohe Viskosität. Der Tröpfchendurchmesser von Mikroemulsionen dagegen liegt im Bereich von etwa 10"3 μm bis etwa 0,5 μm. Mikroemulsionen sind transluzent oder bläulichweiß und meist niedrigviskos. Vorteil von Mikroemulsionen ist, dass in der dispersen Phase Wirkstoffe wesentlich feiner dispers vorliegen können als in der dispersen Phase von „Makroemulsionen". Die Viskosität vieler Mikroemulsionen vom O/W-Typ ist vergleichbar mit der des Wassers. Mizellaren und molekularen Lösungen mit Partikeldurchmessern kleiner als ca. 10"3 μm, die allerdings nicht mehr als echte Emulsionen aufzufassen sind, ist vorbehalten, klar und transparent zu erscheinen.Emulsions are colored milky white without any other coloring additives. Finer "macro-emulsions", whose droplet diameters are in the range from about 500 nm to about 1 μm, are also white and usually have a high viscosity. The droplet diameter of microemulsions, on the other hand, is in the range from about 10 "3 μm to about 0.5 μm. Microemulsions are translucent or bluish white and mostly of low viscosity. The advantage of microemulsions is that active substances can be present in a much finer disperse in the disperse phase than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". The viscosity of many microemulsions of the O / W type is comparable to that of water. Micellar and molecular solutions with particle diameters are smaller As approx. 10 "3 μm, which, however, are no longer to be regarded as real emulsions, is reserved to appear clear and transparent.
Es ist bekannt, dass bestimmte hydrophile Emulgatoren, wie typischerweise Ethylenglykoldialkylether [Beispielsweise Polyoxyethylen(20)cetylstearylether (Ceteareth- 20)] bei steigender Temperatur ihr Löslichkeitsverhalten von wasserlöslich zu fettlöslich ändern. Der Temperaturbereich, in dem die Emulgatoren ihre Löslichkeit geändert haben, wird Phaseninversionstemperaturbereich (PIT) genannt. Diese Eigenschaft ist Grundlage für ein Herstellungsverfahren für Emulsionen, der sogenannten PIT-Technik. Dabei macht man sich das Phänomen zu nutze, dass emulgatorstabilisierte O/W-Emulsionen beim Überschreiten der Phaseninversionstemperatur eine in der Regel reversible Phaseninversion erleiden, also die innere Phase zur äußeren wird. Man erhält zunächst also eine W/O-Emulsion. Kühlt man die invertierte Emulsion wieder unter die Phaseninversionstemperatur ab, so können O/W-Emulsionen mit besonders niedrigen Tröpfchengrößen (Mikroemulsionen) entstehen.It is known that certain hydrophilic emulsifiers, such as typically ethylene glycol dialkyl ether [for example polyoxyethylene (20) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20)], change their solubility behavior from water-soluble to fat-soluble with increasing temperature. The temperature range in which the emulsifiers have changed their solubility is called the phase inversion temperature range (PIT). This property is the basis for a manufacturing process for emulsions, the so-called PIT technique. The phenomenon is exploited here that emulsifier-stabilized O / W emulsions generally undergo reversible phase inversion when the phase inversion temperature is exceeded, that is to say the inner phase becomes the outer phase. You get first a W / O emulsion. If the inverted emulsion is cooled again below the phase inversion temperature, O / W emulsions with particularly small droplet sizes (microemulsions) can result.
Die Phaseninversion ist von unterschiedlichen äußeren Parametern abhängig. Der Phaseninversionsbereich lässt sich mathematisch darstellen als Punktmenge innerhalb des geradlinigen Koordinatensystems Σ, welches durch die Größen Temperatur, pH-Wert und Konzentration eines geeigneten Emulgators bzw. eines Emulgatorengemisches in der Zubereitung gebildet wird, gemäß:The phase inversion depends on different external parameters. The phase inversion range can be represented mathematically as a set of points within the rectilinear coordinate system Σ, which is formed by the quantities temperature, pH and concentration of a suitable emulsifier or a mixture of emulsifiers in the preparation, according to:
Σ = {O, θ, a, m}, mit O - Koordinatenursprung θ - Temperatur a - pH-Wert m KonzentrationΣ = {O, θ, a, m}, with O - coordinate origin θ - temperature a - pH value m concentration
Dabei muss genaugenommen natürlich in einem mehrkomponentigen Emulgatorensy- stem der Beitrag tτij jedes einzelnen Emulgators zur Gesamtfunktion berücksichtigt werden, was bei einem i-komponentigen Emulgatorensystem zur BeziehungStrictly speaking, of course, in a multi-component emulsifier system the contribution tτij of each individual emulsifier to the overall function must be taken into account, which is the case with an i-component emulsifier system
Σ = { O, θ, a, m-,, m2, ..., m führt.Σ = {O, θ, a, m- ,, m 2 , ..., m leads.
Der Phaseninversionsbereich Φ stellt dabei im mathematischen Sinne ein zusammenhängendes Gebiet oder eine Vielzahl zusammenhängender Gebiete innerhalb des Koor- dinatensystems Σ dar. Φ repräsentiert die Gesamtmenge der Koordinatenpunkte K(θ, a, m1f m2, ..., mi), welche erfindungsgemäße Gemische aus Wasser- und Ölphase, i erfindungsgemäßen Emulgatoren der Konzentration nrij bei der Temperatur θ und dem pH- Wert a bestimmen, und für welche gilt, dass beim Übergang von einer Koordinate K-, $ Φ zu einer Koordinate K2 e Φ Phaseninversion eintritt.The phase inversion range Φ represents in the mathematical sense a coherent area or a large number of coherent areas within the coordinate system Σ. Φ represents the total set of coordinate points K (θ, a, m 1f m 2 , ..., mi), which are according to the invention Determine mixtures of water and oil phase, i emulsifiers according to the invention of concentration nrij at temperature θ and pH a, and for which it applies that phase inversion occurs when changing from a coordinate K-, $ Φ to a coordinate K 2 e Φ ,
Die durch die PIT-Technik herstellbaren Mikroemulsionen (auch PIT-Emulsionen genannt) sind im Vergleich zu Makroemulsionen nicht nur kinetisch sondern auch thermodynamisch stabil. Emulsionen stellen in der Regel äußerlich einheitliche, homogene Zubereitungen dar. Diese werden jedoch von den Verbrauchern zunehmend als eintönig und langweilig empfunden. Die Möglichkeiten, diese Emulsionen optisch attraktiver zu gestalten sind allerdings begrenzt. In zunehmendem Maße sind die Verbraucher auch der Flut direkt applizierbarer Fertigprodukte überdrüssig und von dem Wunsch beseelt, sich die kosmetischen Formulierungen selbst zuzubereiten um sich anschließend „etwas Gutes" zu tun. Um diesem neuartigen Tatendrang der Verbraucher entgegen zu kommen werden zunehmend zweiphasige kosmetische Zubereitungen angeboten, die der Kunde durch einfaches Schütteln in eine homogene Emulsion überführen und anschließend anwenden kann. Um den Kunden die Freude am „selber mixen" vor jeder Anwendung zu ermöglichen, muss sich die homogene Emulsion allerdings in angemessener Zeit wieder entmischen. Nur so kann dem Spieltrieb der Verbraucher entsprochen und die Freude an der Anwendung gewährleistet werden. Nicht zuletzt ermöglichen die zweiphasigen Produkte völlig neuartige optische Gestaltungsmöglichkeiten.The microemulsions (also called PIT emulsions) that can be produced by the PIT technology are not only kinetically stable but also thermodynamically stable in comparison to macroemulsions. As a rule, emulsions are externally uniform, homogeneous preparations. However, consumers are increasingly perceiving them as monotonous and boring. However, the possibilities for making these emulsions more visually attractive are limited. Increasingly, consumers are tired of the flood of ready-to-use finished products and are inspired by the desire to prepare the cosmetic formulations themselves in order to do "something good" afterwards. In order to meet this new drive of consumers, two-phase cosmetic preparations are increasingly being offered which the customer can convert into a homogeneous emulsion by simply shaking and then use. In order to allow the customer to enjoy "mixing" before each application, the homogeneous emulsion must separate again in a reasonable time. This is the only way to match the play instinct of consumers and guarantee the joy of use. Last but not least, the two-phase products enable completely new optical design options.
Leider sind jedoch nach heutigem Stand der Technik nur transparente zweiphasige kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Systeme auf Basis jeweils einer lipophilen und einer wässrigen Phase zu formulieren. Diese haben jedoch den Nachteil, dass sie sich in der Regel nach einer Homogenisierung durch Schütteln zu schnell wieder entmischen. Außerdem ist es bisher nicht möglich pigmentäre organische und/oder anorganische UV- Filter in diesen Zubereitungen einzusetzen um auf diese Weise hohe Lichtschutzfaktoren zu erreichen.Unfortunately, according to the current state of the art, only transparent two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological systems based on a lipophilic and an aqueous phase are to be formulated. However, these have the disadvantage that they usually separate out too quickly after homogenization by shaking. In addition, it has not hitherto been possible to use pigmentary organic and / or inorganic UV filters in these preparations in order to achieve high sun protection factors in this way.
Es war daher die Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung die Mängel des Standes der Technik zu beseitigen und zweiphasige kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen zu entwickeln, bei denen eine Phase eine Mikroemulsion ist.It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate the shortcomings of the prior art and to develop two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in which one phase is a microemulsion.
Überraschend wird die Aufgabe gelöst durch zweiphasige kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, wobei die erste Phase aus einer Mikroemulsion und die zweite Phase aus einer lipophilen Phase gebildet wird.Surprisingly, the object is achieved by two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, the first phase being formed from a microemulsion and the second phase from a lipophilic phase.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen zeichnen sich dadurch aus, dass sie sich besonders schnell wieder entmischen. Überraschend ist bei den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen darüber hinaus die Wanderung von Inhaltsstoffen aus der lipophilen Phase der Mikroemulsion in die separate lipophile Phase und umgekehrt weitgehend unterdrückt. Dies führt nicht nur zu besonders langzeitstabilen Zubereitungen. Es ermöglicht darüber hinaus in nicht vorhergesehender Weise die gezielte Steuerung der Aufnahme von Inhaltsstoffen durch die Haut und die Haare. Vollkommen überraschend ist es außerdem bei den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen möglich, unterschiedliche, empfindliche, lipophile Bestandteile in unterschiedlichen und von einander getrennten lipophilen Phasen getrennt voneinander gelöst zu halten.The preparations according to the invention are distinguished in that they separate again particularly quickly. In addition, the migration of ingredients from the lipophilic is surprising in the preparations according to the invention Phase of the microemulsion largely suppressed into the separate lipophilic phase and vice versa. This not only leads to particularly long-term stable preparations. It also enables the targeted control of the absorption of ingredients through the skin and hair in an unforeseen manner. Completely surprisingly, it is also possible with the preparations according to the invention to keep different, sensitive, lipophilic constituents separated from one another in different and separate lipophilic phases.
Zweiphasige kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitung im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung bedeutet, dass Mikroemulsion und lipophile Phase separat übereinander geschichtet vorliegen. Die Mikroemulsion wird bei dieser Betrachtung als eine Phase betrachtet, obwohl es dem Fachmann natürlich bekannt ist, dass Mikroemulsionen an sich aus zwei miteinander homogenisierten Phasen gebildet werden. Die Mikroemulsion ist langzeitstabil. Dies bedeutet, dass es auch über einen längeren Zeitraum (Monate, Jahre) nicht zu einer Entmischung beziehungsweise Phasenauftrennung kommt. Die Besonderheit der vorliegenden Erfindung, welche mit dem Begriff zweiphasig zum Ausdruck gebracht werden soll, liegt nun darin, dass die Mikroemulsion und die als zweite Phase separat vorliegende lipophile Phase entmischt übereinander geschichtet vorliegen. Diese beiden Phasen bzw. Schichten lassen sich zum Beispiel durch Schütteln kurzfristig zu einer homogenen Emulsion emulgieren, welche aber nicht langzeitstabil ist, sondern sich vielmehr über einen Zeitraum von Minuten, Stunden oder Tagen wieder zu übereinander geschichteter Mikroemulsion und lipophiler Phase entmischen.Two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention means that the microemulsion and lipophilic phase are present separately on top of each other. The microemulsion is considered to be a phase in this regard, although it is of course known to those skilled in the art that microemulsions per se are formed from two phases homogenized with one another. The microemulsion is long-term stable. This means that segregation or phase separation does not occur over a longer period (months, years). The peculiarity of the present invention, which is to be expressed with the term two-phase, is now that the microemulsion and the lipophilic phase, which is present separately as the second phase, are present in layers separated from one another. These two phases or layers can, for example, be emulsified briefly to give a homogeneous emulsion which, however, is not stable over the long term, but rather segregates again into a layered microemulsion and lipophilic phase over a period of minutes, hours or days.
Dabei ist es erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen die separate lipophile Phase in einer Menge von 5 bis 95 Vol,-%, insbesondere 10 bis 90 Vol % bezogen auf das Gesamtvolumen der Formulierung enthalten.It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparations according to the invention contain the separate lipophilic phase in an amount of 5 to 95% by volume, in particular 10 to 90% by volume, based on the total volume of the formulation.
Die erfindungsgemäße Mikroemulsion ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft eine OΛ/V- Emulsion.The microemulsion according to the invention is advantageously an OΛ / V emulsion.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen zeichnen sich dadurch aus, dass sie Emulgatoren der Mikroemulsion in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 15 Gewichts-% und besonders bevorzugt von 0,5 bis 10 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Mikroemulsion enthalten.The preparations according to the invention are distinguished in that they contain emulsifiers of the microemulsion in a concentration of 0.1 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the weight of the microemulsion.
Die Tröpfchengröße der inneren Phase der Mikroemulsion beträgt erfindungsgemäß 10 nm bis 500 nm und besonders bevorzugt 10 nm bis 300 nm.According to the invention, the droplet size of the inner phase of the microemulsion is 10 nm to 500 nm and particularly preferably 10 nm to 300 nm.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft können die Mikroemulsion und die separate lipophile Phase jeweils transparent (durchsichtig) oder transluzent (durchscheinend) erscheinen. Es kann aber auch erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft sein, die Mikroemulsion trübe, undurchsichtig und besonders bevorzugt bläulich-weiß bis weiß erscheinen zu lassen. Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind auch Zubereitungen, bei denen mindestens eine der beiden Phasen nicht transparent ist.According to the invention, the microemulsion and the separate lipophilic phase can each appear transparent (translucent) or translucent (translucent). However, it can also be advantageous according to the invention to make the microemulsion appear cloudy, opaque and particularly preferably bluish-white to white. Preparations in which at least one of the two phases is not transparent are also advantageous in the sense of the present invention.
Als Emulgatoren können neben den in kosmetischen Zubereitungen bekannten Emulatoren besonders vorteilhaft solche, deren Lipophilie entweder abhängig vom pH- Wert ist, dergestalt daß durch Erhöhung oder Senkung des pH-Wertes die Lipophilie zunimmt oder abnimmt, wobei unerheblich ist, welche der beiden Möglichkeiten der Änderung der Lipophilie durch die Erhöhung bzw. Senkung des pH-Wertes bewirkt wird, und/oder deren Lipophilie abhängig von der Temperatur ist, dergestalt, daß die Lipophilie mit steigender Temperatur zunimmt und die Hydrophilie mit sinkender Temperatur zunimmt, verwendet werden.As emulsifiers, in addition to the emulsifiers known in cosmetic preparations, those whose lipophilicity is either dependent on the pH value, such that the lipophilicity increases or decreases by increasing or decreasing the pH value, are particularly advantageous, it being irrelevant which of the two possibilities of change the lipophilicity is brought about by increasing or decreasing the pH, and / or the lipophilicity is dependent on the temperature, in such a way that the lipophilicity increases with increasing temperature and the hydrophilicity increases with decreasing temperature.
Solche Emulgatoren sind zum Beispiel Polyglyceryl-2-Dipolyhydroxystearat, PEG-30- Dipolyhydroxystearat, Cetyldimethiconcopolyol, Glykoldistearat, Glykoldilaurat, Diethylenglykoldilaurat, Sorbitantrioleat, Glykololeat, Glyceryldilaurat, Sorbitantristearat, Propylenglycolstearat, Propylenglycoilaurat, Propylenglycoldistearat, Sucrosedistearat, PEG-3 Castor Oil, Pentaerythritylmonostearat, Pentaerythritylsesquioleat, Glyceryloleat, Glycerylstearat, Propylenglykolstearat, Glyceryldiisostearat, Pentaerythritylmonooleat, Sorbitansesquioleat, Isostearyldiglycerylsuccinat, Glycerylcaprat, Palm Glycerides, Glycerylstearat, Cholesterol, Lanolin, Lanolin Alcohols, Glyceryloleat (mit 40 % Monoester), Polyglyceryl-2-Sesquiisostearat, Polyglyceryl-2-Sesquioleat, PEG-20 Sorbitan Beeswax, Sorbitanoleat, Sorbitanisostearat, Trioleylphosphat, Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (Teginacid von Th. Goldschmidt), Sorbitanstearat, Sorbitanisostearat, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Steareth-2, Oleth-2, Cetyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-30 (Emulgator E 2209 von Th. Goldschmidt), PEG-5 Soya Steroi, PEG-6 Sorbitan Beeswax, Ceteth-2, Glycerylstearat SE, Methylglucosesesquistearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sucrosedistearat, Oleth-3, Sorbitanpalmitat, PEG-22/Dodecylglykol Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4-Stearat, Laneth-5, Ceteth-3, Laureth-3, Ceteareth-3, Stearyl Alcohol (and) Stearath-7 (and) Steareth- 10 (Emulgator E-2155 von Th. Goldschmidt), Oleth-5, Sorbitanlaurat, Laureth-4, PEG-4 Laurat, Polysorbat 61, Polysorbat 81 , Beheneth-10, Polysorbat 65, Polysorbat 80, Laneth-10, Triceteareth-4- Phosphat, Triceteareth-4 Phosphate (and) Sodium C14-17 Alkyl See Sulfonat (Hostacerin CG von Hoechst), PEG-8 Stearat, Glycerylstearat (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Arlacel 165 von ICI), Polysorbat 85, Trilaureth-4-Phosphat, PEG-25 Glyceryl Trioleat, OIeth-10, Steareth-10, Ceteth-10, PEG-35 Castor Oil, Sucrosestearat, PEG-8-Oleat, Trioleth-8- Phosphat, PEG-40 Sorbitanlanolat, PEG-15 Glycerylricinoleat, Choleth-24 (and) Ceteth-24 (Solulan C-24 von Amerchol), C12-15 Pareth-12, PEG-20 Glycerylisostearat, Polysorbat 60, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-16 Soya Sterol, PEG-20 Glyceryloleat, PEG-20 Stearat, Polysorbat 80, PEG-20 Methylglucosesesquistearat, PEG-30 Glycerylisostearat, PEG-20 Glyceryllaurat, Ceteth-20, Ceteareth-25, PEG-30 Stearat, PEG-30 Glycerylstearat, Polysorbat 20, Laureth-23, PEG-40 Stearat, PEG-30 Glyceryllaurat, PEG-50 Stearat, PEG-100 Stearat, PEG-150 Laurat, Polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose Distearat, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20 und Steareth-21.Such emulsifiers are, for example, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, glycol distearate, Glykoldilaurat, Diethylenglykoldilaurat, sorbitan trioleate, Glykololeat, glyceryl dilaurate, sorbitan tristearate, propylene glycol stearate, Propylenglycoilaurat, Propylenglycoldistearat, sucrose distearate, PEG-3 castor oil, Pentaerythritylmonostearat, Pentaerythritylsesquioleat , Glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, propylene glycol stearate, glyceryl diisostearate, pentaerythrityl monooleate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, glyceryl capate, glyceryl stearate, cholesterol, lanolin, -20 Sorbitan Beeswax, Sorbitan Aleate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Trioleyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (Teginacid from Th. Goldschmidt), Sorbitan Stearate, Sorbitan Isostearate, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Steareth-2, Oleth-2, Cethear l Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-30 (Emulsifier E 2209 from Th. Goldschmidt), PEG-5 Soya Steroi, PEG-6 Sorbitan Beeswax, Ceteth-2, glyceryl stearate SE, methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, sucrose distearate, Oleth-3, sorbitan palmitate, PEG-22 / dodecylglycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4-stearate, Laneth-5, Ceteth-3, Laureth -3, ceteareth-3, stearyl alcohol (and) stearath-7 (and) steareth-10 (emulsifier E-2155 from Th. Goldschmidt), oleth-5, sorbitan laurate, laureth-4, PEG-4 laurate, polysorbate 61, Polysorbate 81, Beheneth-10, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 80, Laneth-10, Triceteareth-4-Phosphate, Triceteareth-4 Phosphate (and) Sodium C14-17 Alkyl See Sulfonate (Hostacerin CG from Hoechst), PEG-8 stearate, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (Arlacel 165 from ICI), polysorbate 85, trilaureth-4 phosphate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, OIeth-10, steareth-10, ceteth-10, PEG-35 castor oil, sucrose stearate, PEG -8-oleate, trioleth-8-phosphate, PEG-40 sorbitan alanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, choleth-24 (and) ceteth-24 (Solulan C-24 from Amerchol), C12-15 Pareth-12, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate , Polysorbate 60, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-16 Soya Sterol, PEG-20 Glyceryl Oleate, PEG-20 Stearate, Polysorbate 80, PEG-20 Methylglucose Sesquistearate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Laurate, Ceteth-20, Ceteareth-25, PEG -30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, polysorbate 20, Laureth-23, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, ceteareth- 12, Ceteareth-20 and Steareth-21.
Ferner werden der oder die Emulgatoren vorzugsweise gewählt aus der Gruppe der Fettsäuren, welche ganz oder teilweise mit üblichen Alkalien (wie z. B. Natrium- und Kaliumhydroxid, Natrium- und Kaliumcarbonat sowie Mono- und Triethanolamin) neutralisiert sind. Besonders vorteilhaft sind beispielsweise Stearinsäure und Stearate, Isostearinsäure und Isostearate, Palmitinsäure und Palmitate sowie Myristinsäure und Myristate.Furthermore, the emulsifier or emulsifiers are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which are completely or partially neutralized with customary alkalis (such as sodium and potassium hydroxide, sodium and potassium carbonate and mono- and triethanolamine). For example, stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates, and myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.
Es ist darüber hinaus vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, den oder die Emulgatoren aus der Gruppe der Fettalkohole zu wählen, welche eine Kettenlänge von mehr als 8 Kohlenstoffatomen haben. Besonders bevorzugt sind z. B. Cetyl-, Stearyl-, Myristyl- und Behenylalkohol.In addition, it is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to select the emulsifier (s) from the group of fatty alcohols which have a chain length of more than 8 carbon atoms. Z are particularly preferred. B. cetyl, stearyl, myristyl and behenyl alcohol.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaft werden die eingesetzten polyethoxylierten bzw. polypropoxylierten bzw. polyethoxylierten und polypropoxylierten O/W-Emulgatoren gewählt aus der Gruppe der Substanzen mit HLB-Werten von 10 - 18, ganz besonders vor- teilhaft mit mit HLB-Werten von 11 - 15,5, sofern die O/W-Emulgatoren gesättigte Reste R und R' aufweisen. Weisen die O/W-Emulgatoren ungesättigte Reste R und/oder R' auf, oder liegen Isoalkylderivate vor, so kann der bevorzugte HLB-Wert solcher Emulgatoren auch niedriger oder darüber liegen.According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 10-18, very particularly preferably partly with HLB values of 11 - 15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers have saturated residues R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R 'or if there are isoalkyl derivatives, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.
Es ist von Vorteil, die Fettalkoholethoxylate aus der Gruppe der ethoxylierten Stearylal- kohole, Cetylalkohole, Cetylstearylalkohole (Cetearylalkohole) zu wählen.It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols).
Als ethoxylierte Alkylethercarbonsäure bzw. deren Salz kann vorteilhaft das Natriumlau- reth-11 -carboxylat verwendet werden.Sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.
Als Alkylethersulfat kann Natrium Laureth 1-4 sulfat vorteilhaft verwendet werden.Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.
Als ethoxyliertes Cholesterinderivat kann vorteilhaft Polyethylenglycol(30)Cholesteryl- ether verwendet werden. Auch Polyethylenglycol(25)Sojasterol hat sich bewährt.Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.
Als ethoxylierte Triglyceride können vorteilhaft die Polyethylenglycol(60)Evening Primrose Glycerides verwendet werden (Evening Primrose = Nachtkerze).Polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose glycerides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides (evening primrose = evening primrose).
Weiterhin ist von Vorteil, die Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester aus der Gruppe Po- lyethylenglycol(20)glyceryllaurat, Polyethylenglycol(21 )glyceryllaurat, Polyethylenglycol- (22)glyceryllaurat, Polyethylenglycol(23)glyceryllaurat, Polyethylenglycol(6)glyceryl- caprat caprinat, Polyethylenglycol(20)glyceryloleat, Polyethylenglycol(20)glyceryliso~ stearat, Polyethylenglycol(18)glyceryloleat cocoat zu wählen.It is also advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprolate caprinate 20, glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl iso stearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate cocoat to choose.
Es ist ebenfalls günstig, die Sorbitanester aus der Gruppe Polyethylenglycol(20)sorbitan- monolaurat, Polyethylenglyco|(20)sorbitanmonostearat, Polyethylenglycol(20)sor- bitanmonoisostearat, Polyethylenglycol(20)sorbitanmonopalmitat, Polyethylenglycol(20)- sorbitanmonooleat zu wählen.It is also favorable to choose the sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
Die Liste der genannten Emulgatoren, die im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein. Die wässrige Phase der Mikroemulsion der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen kann vorteilhaft übliche kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie beispielsweise Alkohole, insbesondere solche niedriger C-Zahl, vorzugsweise Ethanol und/oder Isopropanol, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Butylenglykol, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyi, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethy- lenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte sowie insbesondere ein oder mehrere Verdickungsmittel, welches oder welche vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Siliciumdioxid, Aluminiumsilikate, Polysaccharide bzw. deren Derivate, z. B. Hyaluronsäure, Xanthangummi, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, besonders vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Polyacrylate, bevorzugt ein Polyacrylat aus der Gruppe der sogenannten Carbopole [von der Fa. Bf. Goodrich], beispielsweise Carbopole der Typen 980, 981 , 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, jeweils einzeln oder in Kombination.The list of emulsifiers mentioned which can be used in the sense of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting. The aqueous phase of the microemulsion of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those with a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols with a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol , Ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the Group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.
Die separate lipophile Phase sowie die Ölphase der Mikroemulsion der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen werden vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der polaren Öle, beispielsweise aus der Gruppe der Lecithine und der Fettsäuretriglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 bis 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, wie z. B. Cocoglycerid, Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Rizinusöl, Weizenkeimöl, Traubenkernöl, Distelöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Macadamia- nußöl und dergleichen mehr.The separate lipophilic phase and the oil phase of the microemulsion of the formulations according to the invention are advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft sind ferner z. B. natürliche Wachse tierischen und pflanzlichen Ursprungs, wie beispielsweise Bienenwachs und andere Insektenwachse sowie Beerenwachs, Sheabutter und/oder Lanolin (Wollwachs).According to the invention, z. B. natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
Weitere vorteilhafte polare Ölkomponenten können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ferner gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen sowie aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Octylpalmitat, Octylco- coat, Octylisostearat, Octyldodeceylmyristat, Octyidodekanol, Cetearylisononanoat, Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n-Butylstearat, n- Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethyl- hexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Stearyl- heptanoat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat, Tridecylstearat, Tridecyltri- mellitat, sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, wie z. B. Jojobaöl.For the purposes of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyidodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyltrimetic halosynthesis, as well as synthetic, such as. B. Jojoba oil.
Ferner können die Ölphasen vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Dialkylether und Dialkylcarbonate, vorteilhaft sind z. B. Dicaprylylether {Cetiol OE) und/oder Di- caprylylcarbonat, beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Cetiol CC bei der Fa. Cognis erhältliche.Furthermore, the oil phases can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dipcaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis.
Es ist ferner bevorzugt, das oder die Olkomponenten aus der Gruppe Isoeikosan, Neo- pentylglykoldiheptanoat, Propylenglykoldicaprylat/dicaprat, Caprylic/Capric/Diglyceryl- succinat, Butylenglykol Dicaprylat/Dicaprat, C12-13-Alkyllactat, Di-C12-13-Alkyltartrat, Triiso- Stearin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylat/Hexacaprat, Propylenglykolmonoisostearat, Tri- caprylin, Dimethylisosorbid zu wählen. Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, wenn die Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen einen Gehalt an C12-ι5-Alkylbenzoat aufweist oder vollständig aus diesem besteht.It is further preferred pentylglykoldiheptanoat the one or more oil components from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / Diglyceryl- succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C 12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C 12-13 -Alkyltartrat , Triiso- stearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tri-caprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention comprises 12 ι 5 alkyl benzoate has a content of C or consists entirely of this.
Vorteilhafte Olkomponenten sind ferner z. B. Butyloctylsaiicylat (beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Hallbrite BHB bei der Fa. CP Hall erhältliche), Hexadecylben- zoat und Butyloctylbenzoat und Gemische davon (Hallstar AB) und/oder Diethylhexyl- naphthalat (Hallbrite TQ oder Corapan TQ von H&R).Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl saiicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).
Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen.Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
Ferner können die Ölphasen ebenfalls vorteilhaft auch unpolare Öle enthalten, beispielsweise solche, welche gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweig- ten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, insbesondere Mineralöl, Vaseline (Petrolatum), Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squalen, Polyolefine, hydrogenierte Polyisobutene und Isohexa- decan. Unter den Polyolefinen sind Polydecene die bevorzugten Substanzen.Furthermore, the oil phases can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched oils. hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.
Vorteilhaft können die Ölphasen ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Öl- phasenkomponenten zu verwenden.The oil phases can also advantageously have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
Silikonöle sind hochmolekulare synthetische polymere Verbindungen, in denen Silicium- Atome über Sauerstoff-Atome ketten- und/oder netzartig verknüpft und die restlichen Valenzen des Siliciums durch Kohlenwasserstoff-Reste (meist Methyl-, seltener Ethyl-, Pro- pyl-, Phenyl-Gruppen u. a.) abgesättigt sind. Systematisch werden die Silikonöle als Po- lyorganosiloxane bezeichnet. Die methylsubstituierten Polyorganosiloxane, welche die mengenmäßig bedeutendsten Verbindungen dieser Gruppe darstellen und sich durch die folgende Strukturformel auszeichnenSilicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups) are saturated). The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten. are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
Besonders vorteilhafte Polyorganosiloxane im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Dimethylpolysiloxane [Poly(dimethylsiloxan)], welche beispielsweise unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Abu 10 bis 10 000 bei Th. Goldschmidt erhältlich sind. Ferner vorteilhaft sind Phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Tri- methicone), cyclische Silikone (Octamethylcyclotetrasiioxan bzw. Decamethylcyclopenta- siloxan), welche nach INCI auch als Cyclomethicone bezeichnet werden, aminomodifi- zierte Silikone (INCI: Amodimethicone) und Silikonwachse, z. B. Polysiloxan-Polyalkylen- Copolymere (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone und Cetyl Dimethicone) und Dialkoxydimethyl- polysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone und Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), welche als ver- schiedene Abil-Wax-Typen bei Th. Goldschmidt erhältlich sind. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Cetyldimethicon, Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiioxan, Poly(methylphenylsilo- xan).Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abu 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiioxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also referred to as cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimse methicones) and silicone. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available from Th. Goldschmidt as different types of abil wax. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example Cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiioxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können ferner vorteilhaft eine oder mehrere Sub- stanzen aus der folgenden Gruppe der Siloxanelastomere enthalten, beispielsweise um die Wasserfestigkeit und/oder den Lichtschutzfaktor der Produkte zu steigern:The preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:
(a) Siloxanelastomere, welche die Einheiten R2SiO und RSiO1ι5 und/oder R3SiO0,5 und/oder SiO2 enthalten, wobei die einzelnen Reste R jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C1-2 -AI- kyl (wie beispielsweise Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl) oder Aryl (wie beispielsweise Phenyl oder Tolyl), Alkenyl (wie beispielsweise Vinyl) bedeuten und das Gewichtsverhältnis der Einheiten R2SiO zu RSiO^ aus dem Bereich von 1 : 1 bis 30 : 1 gewählt wird;(a) Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R 2 SiO and RSiO 1ι5 and / or R 3 SiO 0 , 5 and / or SiO 2 , the individual radicals R each independently of one another hydrogen, C 1-2 -AlK- (such as for example methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R 2 SiO to RSiO ^ is selected from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1;
(b) Siloxanelastomere, welche in Silikonöl unlöslich und quellfähig sind, die durch die Additionsreaktion eines Organopolysiloxans (1 ), das siliciumbebundenen Wasserstoff enthält, mit einem Organopolysiloxan (2), das ungesättigte aiiphatische Gruppen enthält, erhältlich sind, wobei die verwendeten Mengenateile so gewählt werden, daß die Menge des Wasserstoffes des Organopolysiloxans (1 ) oder der ungesättigten aliphatischen Gruppen des Organopolysiloxans (2) • im Bereich von 1 bis 20 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan nicht cyclisch ist und • im Bereich von 1 bis 50 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan cyclisch ist.(b) Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) which contains silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) which contains unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used so chosen the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2) • is in the range from 1 to 20 mol% if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and • in the range from 1 to 50 mol% % is when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.
Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung liegen das oder die Siloxanelastomere in Form sphärischer Puder oder in Form von Gelen vor.For the purposes of the present invention, the siloxane elastomer or elastomers are advantageously in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte in Form sphärischer Puder vorliegende Siloxanelastomere sind die mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, beispielsweise das von DOW CORNING unter der Handelsbezeichnungen DOW CORNING 9506 Powder erhältliche.Advantageous siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder according to the invention are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.
Besonders bevorzugt ist es, wenn das Siloxanelastomer in Kombination mit Ölen aus Kohlenwasserstoffen tierischer und/oder pflanzlicher Herkunft, synthetischen Ölen, synthetischen Estern, synthetischen Ethern oder deren Gemischen verwendet wird. Ganz besonders bevorzugt ist es, wenn das Siloxanelastomer in Kombination mit unverzweigten bei Raumtemperatur flüssigen oder pastösen Silikonölen oder cyclischen Silikonölen oder deren Gemischen verwendet wird. Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind Organo- polysiloxanelastomere mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 , ganz besonders die von der Grant Industries Inc. erhältlichen Gransil-Typen GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ Gel, AM-18 Gel und/oder DMCM-5.It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof. It is very particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils which are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof. Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 are particularly advantageous, especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ available from Grant Industries Inc. Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.
Ganz außergewöhnlich bevorzugt ist es, wenn das Siloxanelastomer in Form eines Gels aus Siloxanelastomer und einer Lipidphase verwendet wird, wobei der Gehalt des Silo- xanelastomers in dem Gel 1 bis 80 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 60 Gew.-% beträgt, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Gels.It is very exceptionally preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel composed of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , each based on the total weight of the gel.
Es ist vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, die Gesamtmenge der Siloxanelastomere (Aktivgehalt) aus dem Bereich von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorteilhaft von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous for the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) to be in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können vorteilhaft weitere kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Wirk-, Hilfs-und/oder Zusatzstoffe enthalten.The preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain further cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können vorteilhaft als Sonnenschutzmittel eingesetzt werden. Es ist aber auch vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen zu erstellen, deren hauptsächlicher Zweck nicht der Schutz vor Sonnenlicht ist, die aber dennoch einen Gehait an weiteren UV- Schutzsubstanzen enthalten. So werden z. B. in Selbstbräunungsprodukten, Tagespflegeprodukten oder Make-up-Produkten gewöhnlich UV-A- bzw. UV-B-Filtersub- stanzen eingearbeitet. Auch stellen UV-Schutzsubstanzen, ebenso wie Antioxidantien und, gewünschtenfalls Konservierungsstoffe, einen wirksamen Schutz der Zubereitungen selbst gegen Verderb dar.The preparations according to the invention can advantageously be used as sunscreens. However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain a content of further UV protection substances. So z. B. usually incorporated into self-tanning products, day care products or make-up products UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
Dementsprechend enthalten die Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung vorteilhaft mindestens eine UV-A-, UV-B- und/oder Breitbandfiltersubstanz und/oder mind. ein UV-Licht reflektierendes und/oder absorbierendes anorganisches Pigment. Die Formulierungen können, obgleich nicht notwendig, gegebenenfalls auch ein oder meh- rere organische und/oder anorganische Pigmente als UV-Filtersubstanzen enthalten, welche in der Wasser- und/oder der Ölphase vorliegen könnenAccordingly, the preparations in the sense of the present invention advantageously contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment reflecting and / or absorbing UV light. The formulations can, if not necessary, possibly also one or more contain more organic and / or inorganic pigments than UV filter substances, which can be present in the water and / or oil phase
Erfindungsgemäß sind alle Ausführungsformen, bei denen sich die UV-Schutzsubstanzen ausschließlich in einer der beiden Phasen oder in beiden Phasen der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen befinden.According to the invention are all embodiments in which the UV protective substances are exclusively in one of the two phases or in both phases of the preparations according to the invention.
Besonders vorteilhafte bei Raumtemperatur flüssige UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Homomenthylsalicylat (INCI: Homosalate), 2-Ethylhexyl-2- cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-Ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoat (2-Ethyl- hexylsalicylat, Octylsalicylat, INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) und Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester (2~Ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamat, INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) und 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester (lsopentyl-4- methoxycinnamat, INCI: Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate) und polymere UV-Filter wie das (3-(4-(2,2-bis-Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy) propenyl)- methylsiloxan/Dimethylsiloxan Copolymer, welches beispielsweise bei Hoffmann-La Röche unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol SLX erhältlich ist.Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethyl hexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethyl hexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxy cinnamic acid (2-ethyl hexyl) ester (2 ~ ethyl hexyl 4-methoxy cinnamate, INCI: ethyl hexyl methoxy cinnamate) and 4-methoxy cinnamate (4-methoxy cinnamate) isophenoxy cinnamate (4-methoxy cinnamate) , INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate) and polymeric UV filters such as the (3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) methylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is available, for example, from Hoffmann-La Röche under the Trade name Parsol SLX is available.
Bevorzugte anorganische Pigmente sind Metalloxide und/oder andere in Wasser schwer- lösliche oder unlösliche Metallverbindungen, insbesondere Oxide des Titans (TiO2), Zinks (ZnO), Eisens (z. B. Fe2O3), Zirkoniums (ZrO2), Siliciums (SiO2), Mangans (z. B. MnO), Aluminiums (AI2O3), Cers (z. B. Ce2O3), Mischoxide der entsprechenden Metalle sowie Abmischungen aus solchen Oxiden sowie das Sulfat des Bariums (BaSO4).Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium ( BaSO 4 ).
Die Pigmente können vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch in Form kommerziell erhältlicher öliger oder wäßriger Vordispersionen zur Anwendung kommen. Diesen Vordispersionen können vorteilhaft Dispergierhilfsmittel und/oder Solubilisations- vermittler zugesetzt sein.For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
Die Pigmente können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft oberflächlich behandelt („gecoatet") sein, wobei beispielsweise ein hydrophiler, amphiphiler oder hydrophober Charakter gebildet werden bzw. erhalten bleiben soll. Diese Oberflächenbehandlung kann darin bestehen, daß die Pigmente nach an sich bekannten Verfahren mit einer dünnen hydrophilen und/oder hydrophoben anorganischen und/oder organischen Schicht versehen werden. Die verschiedenen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch Wasser enthalten.According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer. For the purposes of the present invention, the various surface coatings can also contain water.
Anorganische Oberflächenbeschichtungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bestehen aus Aluminiumoxid (AI2O3), Aluminiumhydroxid AI(OH)3, bzw. Aluminiumoxidhydrat (auch: Alumina, CAS-Nr.: 1333-84-2), Natriumhexametaphosphat (NaPO3)6, Natriummetaphosphat (NaPO3)n, Siliciumdioxid (SiO2) (auch: Silica, CAS-Nr.: 7631-86-9), Bariumsulfat (BaSO ) oder Eisenoxid (Fe2O3). Diese anorganischen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können allein, in Kombination und/oder in Kombination mit organischen Beschichtungsmaterialien vorkommen.Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.
Organische Oberflächenbeschichtungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bestehen aus pflanzlichem oder tierischem Aluminiumstearat, pflanzlicher oder tierischer Stearinsäure, Laurinsäure, Dimethylpolysiloxan (auch: Dimethicone), Methylpolysiloxan (Methicone), Simethicone (einem Gemisch aus Dimethylpolysiloxan mit einer durchschnittlichen Kettenlänge von 200 bis 350 Dimethylsiloxan-Einheiten und Silicagel) oder Alginsäure. Diese organischen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können allein, in Kombination und/oder in Kombination mit anorganischen Beschichtungsmaterialien vorkommen.Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
Erfindungsgemäß geeignete Zinkoxidpartikel und Vordispersionen von Zinkoxidpartikeln sind unter folgenden Handelsbezeichnungen bei den aufgeführten Firmen erhältlich:Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
Geeignete Titandioxidpartikel und Vordispersionen von Titandioxidpartikeln sind unter folgenden Handelsbezeichnungen bei den aufgeführten Firmen erhältlich:Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
Vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Dibenzoyl- methanderivate, insbesondere das 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), welches von Givaudan unter der Marke Parsol® 1789 und von Merck unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex® 9020 verkauft wird.Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
Vorteilhafte weitere UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind sulfo- nierte, wasserlösliche UV-Filter, wie z. B.:Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:
• Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, beson- ders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natri- umsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist; • Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Tri- ethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phe- nylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist; • 1 ,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1 ,4-Phenylendimethy- lene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1 ,4-di(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1 ,4- di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtali- dene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich; Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bomyliden- methyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze. • Hydroxybenzophenon-Derivate, wie z.B. 2-(4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)- benzoic acid hexylester, welches beispielsweise von der Firma BASF unter dem Handelsnamen Uvinul® A Plus erhältlich ist.• Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially phenylene-1 , 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS no .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP; • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer; • 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene)) bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2- oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also known as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1, 4- di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephthalic Dicampher Sulfonic Acid ( CAS.No .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex; sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) - methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts. • Hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, such as 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, which is available for example from BASF under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus.
Benzoxazol-Derivate, wie z.B. das 2,4-bis-[5-1 (dimethylpropyl)benzossazol-2-yl-(4- phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS-Nr.: 288254-16-0), welches beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen UVASorb® K2A von der Firma 3V Sigma erhältlich ist.Benzoxazole derivatives, e.g. the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no .: 288254-16-0), which is available for example under the trade name UVASorb® K2A from 3V Sigma.
Vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner soge- nannte Breitbandfilter, d.h. Filtersubstanzen, die sowohl UV-A- als auch UV-B-Strahlung absorbieren.Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
Vorteilhafte Breitbandfilter oder UV-B-Filtersubstanzen sind beispielsweise Triazinderi- vate, wie z. B. • 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyI)-1 ,3,5-triazinAdvantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B. • 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-Ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine
(INCI: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der(INCI: Aniso Triazin), which is sold under the trade name Tinosorb® S by
CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;CIBA Chemical GmbH is available;
Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist; • 4,4',4"-(1 ,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch:Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V; 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also:
2,4>6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1,-hexyloxy)]-1 ,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Tria- zone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung2,4 > 6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 , -hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is available from BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the description of the goods
UVINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird.UVINUL® T 150 is sold.
Ein vorteilhafter Breitbandfilter im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist auch das 2,2'-Me- thylen-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® M bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
Vorteilhafter Breitbandfilter im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ferner das 2-(2H-ben- zotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]disiloxa- nyl]propyl]-phenol (CAS-Nr.: 155633-54-8) mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Drometrizole Trisi- loxane, welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Mexoryl® XL bei der Fa. Chimex erhältlich ist. Die weiteren UV-Filtersubstanzen können öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein.Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex , The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
Vorteilhafte öllösliche UV-B- und/oder Breitband-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind z. B.: ■ 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher;Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. For example: ■ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
■ 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
■ Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
■ sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter. ■ as well as UV filters bound to polymers.
■ 3-(4-(2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy)propenyl)-methoxysiloxan/Dimethylsiloxan - Copolymer welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol® SLX bei Hoffmann La Röche erhältlich ist. ■ 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is obtainable for example under the trade name Parsol SLX from Hoffmann La Roche.
Besonders vorteilhafte Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, die sich durch einen hohen bzw. sehr hohen UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Schutz auszeichnen, enthalten neben der oder den erfindungsgemäßen Filtersubstanz(en) bevorzugt ferner weitere UV-A- und/oder Breitbandfilter, insbesondere Dibenzoylmethanderivate [beispielsweise das 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan], Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2- benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und/oder ihre Salze, das 2-(4-Diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoic acid hexylester und/oder das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2- hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin und/oder das 2-(4-Diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoic acid hexylester, jeweils einzeln oder in beliebigen Kombinationen miteinander.Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably also contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, in each case individually or in any combination with one another.
Die Liste der genannten UV-Filter, die im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.
Die erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaften UV-Lichtschutzfilter werden bevorzugt in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 30 Gewichts-%, insbesondere in einer Konzentration von 0,5 bis 15 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, eingesetzt. Besonders bevorzugte Ausführungsformen der vorliegenden Erfindung enthalten als dass UV-Filter ein oder mehrere Triazin-Derivate, Dibenzoylmethanderivate, bei Raumtemperatur flüssigen UV-Filter und/oder der anorganisch Pigmente, insbesondere Titandioxid.The UV light protection filters advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. Particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention contain, as the UV filter, one or more triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, UV filters which are liquid at room temperature and / or the inorganic pigments, in particular titanium dioxide.
Auch Ausführungsformen der vorliegenden Erfindung, die mindestens ein wasserlöslichen UV-Filter enthalten, sind besonders vorteilhaft.Embodiments of the present invention which contain at least one water-soluble UV filter are also particularly advantageous.
Ferner kann es gegebenenfalls von Vorteil sein, Filmbildner in die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen einzuarbeiten, beispielsweise um die Wasserfestigkeit der Zubereitungen zu verbessern oder die UV-Schutzleistung zu erhöhen (UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Boosting). Geeignet sind sowohl wasserlösliche bzw. dispergierbare als auch fettlösliche Filmbildner, jeweils einzeln oder in Kombination miteinander.It may also be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.
Vorteilhafte wasserlöslich bzw. dispergierbare Filmbildner sind z. B. Polyurethane (z. B. die Avalure® -Typen von Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® von der Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVPΛ/A (VA = Vinylacetat) Copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder der BASF) etc.Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. Avalure® types from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVPΛ / A (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc ,
Vorteilhafte fettlösliche Filmbildner sind z. B., die Filmbildner aus der Gruppe der Polymere auf Basis von Polyvinylpyrrolidon (PVP)Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
Besonders bevorzugt sind Copolymere des Polyvinylpyrrolidons, beispielsweise das PVP Hexadecen Copolymer und das PVP Eicosen Copolymer, welche unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Antaron V216 und Antaron V220 bei der GAF Chemicals Cooperation erhältlich sind, sowie das Tricontayl PVP und dergleichen mehr.Particularly preferred are copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.
Erfindungsgemäß können die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und/oder dermatologi- sehen Zubereitungen wie üblich zusammengesetzt sein und dem kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Lichtschutz, ferner zur Behandlung, der Pflege und der Reinigung der Haut und/oder der Haare und als Schminkprodukt in der dekorativen Kosmetik dienen.According to the invention, the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual and the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, also for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
Zur Anwendung werden die kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen erfin- dungsgemäß in der für Kosmetika üblichen Weise auf die Haut und/oder die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht.For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
Die kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung können kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen ver- wendet werden, z. B. Konservierungsmittel, Konservierungshelfer, Komplexbildner, Bak- terizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern oder Steigern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchhaltende Substanzen, Füllstoffe, die das Hautgefühl verbessern, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologi- sehen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries, such as are usually used in such preparations, for. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, Oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Ein zusätzlicher Gehalt an Antioxidantien ist im allgemeinen bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische An1 Wendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.An additional level of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all for cosmetic and / or dermatological At one turns antioxidants customary or suitable to be used as favorable antioxidants.
Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäuren (z.B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z.B. Uroca- ninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D.L-Camosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z.B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z.B. α-Carotin, ß-Carotin, Lycopin) und deren Derivate, Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z.B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracii und andere Thiole (z.B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthio- dipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z.B. Buthionin- sulfoximine, , Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathio- ninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z.B. pmol bis μmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z.B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), α -Hydroxysäuren (z.B. Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z.B. γ-Linolensäure, Linoisäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z.B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg-Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z.B. Vitamin-E-acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin-A-palmitat) sowie Koniferyl- benzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, α-Glycosyl rutin, Ferulasäure, Furfurylidenglucitol, Camosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z.B. ZnO, ZnSO4) Selen und dessen Derivate (z.B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z.B. Stilbenoxid, Trans-Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genann- ten Wirkstoffe.The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as DL-camosin, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracii and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters ) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearylthio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, He xa-, heptathionesulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (for example pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (Metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, lininoic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate) ), Vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, camosin, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguoyak resin acid, nordihydrophonic acid, derihutrophonic acid, derihutyro acid derivatives, and urethane acid trihydroxybenzoate derivatives , Mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO 4 ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), Stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.
Die Menge der vorgenannten Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 7 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zuberei- tung.The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 7% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Sofern Vitamin A, bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. to choose.
Darüber hinaus eignen sich ausgewählte erfindungsgemäße Rezepturen, welche z. B. bekannte Antifaltenwirkstoffe wie Flavonglycoside (insbesondere σ-Glycosylrutin), Coen- zym Q10, Vitamin E und/oder Derivate und dergleichen enthalten, insbesondere vorteilhaft zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Hautverände- rungen, wie sie z. B. bei der Hautalterung (z.B. Falten und Fältchen) auftreten. Weiterhin vorteilhaft eignen sie sich gegen das Erscheinungsbild der trockenen bzw. rauhen Haut.In addition, selected recipes according to the invention are suitable, which e.g. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially σ-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as. B. occur during skin aging (eg wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
Sofern σ-Glycosylrutin das Antioxidants darstellt, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If σ-glycosylrutin is the antioxidant, it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zubereitungen können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ein oder mehrere waschaktive anionische, kationische, amphotere und/oder nicht-ionische Tenside enthalten. Derartige Produkte können erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaft zur Reinigung der Haut und Hautanhangsgebilde (Haare, Nägel) verwendet werden. Es ist besonders vorteilhaft das oder die erfindungsgemäßen waschaktiven Tenside aus der Gruppe der Tenside zu wählen, welche einen HLB-Wert von mehr als 25 haben, ganz besonders vorteilhaft sind solche, welchen einen HLB-Wert von mehr als 35 haben.According to the invention, the cosmetic preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more wash-active anionic, cationic, amphoteric and / or non-ionic surfactants. Products of this type can be used according to the invention particularly advantageously for cleaning the skin and appendages (hair, nails). It is particularly advantageous to choose the wash-active surfactant or surfactants according to the invention from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, very particularly advantageous are those which have an HLB value of more than 35.
Besonders vorteilhafte waschaktive anionische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sindParticularly advantageous wash-active anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are
Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze, wie ■ Acylglutamate, insbesondere NatriumacylglutamatAcylamino acids and their salts, such as ■ acylglutamates, especially sodium acylglutamate
■ Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-Iauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlau- roylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat, ■ sarcosinates, roylsarcosinat for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium and sodium,
Sulfonsäuren und deren Salze, wie ■ Acyl-isethionate, z.B. Natrium-/ Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat,Sulfonic acids and their salts, such as ■ acyl isethionate, for example sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
■ Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfo- succinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido MEA- Sulfosuccinat ■ sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl, Dinatriumlaurethsulfo- succinate, disodium and disodium MEA sulphosuccinate
sowie Schwefelsäureester, wieas well as sulfuric acid esters, such as
■ Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA- Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C12-13 Parethsulfat, ■ alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium pareth sulfate, and sodium C 12-13,
■ Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA- Laurylsulfat. Besonders vorteilhafte waschaktive kationische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind quartemäre Tenside. Quaternäre Tenside enthalten mindestens ein N- Atom, das mit 4 Alkyl- oder Arylgruppen kovalent verbunden ist. Vorteilhaft sind Benz- alkoniumchlorid, Alkylbetain, Alkylamidopropylbetain und Alkyl-amidopropylhydroxy- sultain. ■ Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate. Quaternary surfactants are particularly advantageous washing-active cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention. Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Benzalkonium chloride, alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysultain are advantageous.
Besonders vorteilhafte waschaktive amphotere Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sindParticularly advantageous wash-active amphoteric surfactants in the sense of the present invention are
■ Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamine, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacyl- amphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropyl- sulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,Acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamines, for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
Besonders vorteilhafte waschaktive nicht-ionische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ■ Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/ DEA/ MIPA,Particularly advantageous washing active non-ionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are: ■ alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,
■ Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen, ■ esters formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
■ Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte Poly- siloxane, propoxylierte POE Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Lauryiglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid. ■ ethers, for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryiglucoside, decylglycoside and cocoglycoside.
Weitere vorteilhafte anionische Tenside sindOther advantageous anionic surfactants are
■ Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat, ■ taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
■ Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13 Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6 Cocamide Carboxylat, ■ ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
■ Phosphorsäureester und Salze, wie beispielsweise DEA-Oleth-10 Phosphat und Dilaureth-4 Phosphat, ■ organophosphate and salts, such as DEA oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate,
■ Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C12-14 Olefin-sulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat. ■ Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C 12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.
Weitere vorteilhafte amphotere Tenside sindOther advantageous amphoteric surfactants are
N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropion- säure, Natriumalkyiimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat. Weitere vorteilhafte nicht-ionische Tenside sind Alkohole.N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate. Further advantageous non-ionic surfactants are alcohols.
Weitere geeignete anionische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind fernerOther suitable anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also
■ Acylglutamate wie Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/ Capric Glutamat, ■ Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoyl hydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/ Kalium Cocoyl hydrolysiertes Kollagen■ acyl glutamates such as di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate, ■ acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
sowie Carbonsäuren und Derivate, wieas well as carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as
■ beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkunde- cylenat,For example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc decylate,
■ Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6 Citrat und Natrium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylat, ■ ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
■ Alkylarylsulfonate. ■ alkylarylsulfonates.
Weitere geeignete kationische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind fernerOther suitable cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also
■ Alkylamine, ■ alkylamines,
■ Alkylimidazole und ■ Alkylimidazoles and
■ ethoxylierte Amine. ■ ethoxylated amines.
Weitere geeignete nicht-ionische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid.Other suitable nonionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.
Es ist vorteilhaft im Sinn der vorliegenden Erfindung, wenn der Gehalt an einem oder mehreren waschaktiven Tensiden in der kosmetischen Zubereitung aus dem Bereich von 0,1 bis 25 Gew.-%, ganz besonders vorteilhaft von 10 bis 20 Gew.-% gewählt wird, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.In the sense of the present invention, it is advantageous if the content of one or more detergent surfactants in the cosmetic preparation is selected from the range from 0.1 to 25% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 10 to 20% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft können die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen Polysorbate enthalten. Polysorbate stellen eine Verbindungsklasse dar, die sich vom Sorbitan, einem aus Sorbit durch Abspaltung zweier Äquivalente Wasser gewonnenem Furanderivat, ableiteten. Die Hydroxylgruppen des Sorbitans sind mit Polyethylenglykolen verethert, deren Enden mit Fettsäuren verestert sein können. Sie lassen sich allgemein durch die Formel According to the invention, the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain polysorbates. Polysorbates are a class of compounds derived from sorbitan, a furan derivative obtained from sorbitol by splitting off two equivalents of water. The hydroxyl groups of sorbitan are etherified with polyethylene glycols, the ends of which can be esterified with fatty acids. They can be generalized by the formula
Ri, R2. R3 = H, FettsäurerestRi, R 2 . R 3 = H, fatty acid residue
darstellen.represent.
Im Sinne der Erfindung vorteilhafte Polysorbate sind beispielsweise dasPolysorbates which are advantageous in the sense of the invention are, for example
- Polyoxyethylen(20)sorbitanmonolaurat (Tween 20, CAS-Nr.9005-64-5)- Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (Tween 20, CAS No. 9005-64-5)
- Polyoxyethylen(4)sorbitanmonolaurat (Tween 21 , CAS-Nr.9005-64-5)- Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monolaurate (Tween 21, CAS No. 9005-64-5)
- Polyoxyethylen(4)sorbitanmonostearat (Tween 61, CAS-Nr. 9005-67-8)- Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate (Tween 61, CAS No. 9005-67-8)
- Polyoxyethylen(20)sorbitantristearat (Tween 65, CAS-Nr. 9005-71-4) - Polyoxyethylen(20)sorbitanmonooleat (Tween 80, CAS-Nr. 9005-65-6)- Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan tristearate (Tween 65, CAS No. 9005-71-4) - Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate (Tween 80, CAS No. 9005-65-6)
- Polyoxyethylen(5)sorbitanmonooleat (Tween 81, CAS-Nr. 9005-65-5)- Polyoxyethylene (5) sorbitan monooleate (Tween 81, CAS No. 9005-65-5)
- Polyoxyethylen(20)sorbitantriqleat (Tween 85, CAS-Nr. 9005-70-3).- Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan triqleate (Tween 85, CAS No. 9005-70-3).
Diese werden erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 5 Gewichts- % und insbesondere in einer Konzentration von 1,5 bis 2,5 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung einzeln oder als Mischung mehrer Polysorbate, eingesetzt.According to the invention, these are advantageously used in a concentration of 0.1 to 5% by weight and in particular in a concentration of 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, individually or as a mixture of several polysorbates.
Ferner ist es erfindungsgemäß von Vorteil, wenn in den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen Verdicker eingesetzt werden. Diese können beispielsweise vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Gummen gewählt werden.It is also advantageous according to the invention if thickeners are used in the preparations according to the invention. For example, these can advantageously be selected from the group of gums.
Zu den Gummen zählt man Pflanzen- oder Baumsäfte, die an der Luft erhärten und Harze bilden oder Extrakte aus Wasserpflanzen. Aus dieser Gruppe können vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung gewählt werden beispielsweise Gummi Arabicum, Johannisbrotmehl, Tragacanth, Karaya, Guar Gummi, Pektin, Gellan Gummi, Carrageen, Agar, Algine, Chondrus, Xanthan Gummi. Weiterhin vorteilhaft ist die Verwendung von derivatisierten Gummen wie z.B. Hydroxy- propyl Guar (Jaguar® HP 8Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention. The use of derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8
Unter den Polysacchariden und -derivaten befinden sich z.B. Hyaluronsäure, Chitin und Chitosan, Chondroitinsulfate, Stärke und Stärkederivate als erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Verdicker.Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives as advantageous thickeners according to the invention.
Unter den Cellulosederivaten befinden sich z.B. Methylcellulose, Carboxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose als erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Verdicker.Among the cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose as advantageous thickeners according to the invention.
Unter den Schichtsilikaten befinden sich natürlich vorkommende und synthetische Tonerden wie z.B. Montmoriilonit, Bentonit, Hektorit, Laponit, Magnesiumaluminiumsilikate wie Veegum®. Diese können als solche oder in modifizierter Form als Verdicker verwendet werden wie z.B. Stearylalkonium Hektorite.Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmoriilonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form as thickeners, e.g. Stearylalkonium hektorite.
Weiterhin können vorteilhaft auch Kieselsäuregele verwendet werden.Furthermore, silica gels can also advantageously be used.
Unter den Polyacrylaten befinden sich z.B. Carbopol Typen der Firma Goodrich (Carbo- pol 980, 981 , 1382, 5984, 2984, ETD 2001 , ETD 2020, ETD 2050 oder Pemulen TR1 & TR2).The polyacrylates include e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, ETD 2001, ETD 2020, ETD 2050 or Pemulen TR1 & TR2).
Unter den Polymeren befinden sich z.B. Polyacrylamide (Seppigel 305), Polyvinylalko- hole, PVP, PVP / VA Copolymere, Polyglycole.Among the polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Verdicker eignen sich erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaft zur Regulierung der Entmischungs- bzw. Trenngeschwindigkeit der beiden erfindungsgemäßen Phasen: Die separate lipophile Phase und die Mikroemulsion lassen sich durch Schütteln oder Rühren für eine begrenzte Zeit homogenisieren. Die Entmischungs- bzw. Trenngeschwindigkeit von separater lipophiler Phase und Mikroemulsion läßt sich erfindungsgemäß über den Zusatz von hydrophoben und/oder hydrophilen Verdickern regulieren. Diese Regulierung erfolgt nach dem Grundsatz, dass durch Erhöhung der Viskosität der wässrigen Phase der Mikroemulsion durch Zusatz von insbesondere hydrophilen Verdickern und/oder durch Erhöhung der Viskosität der zusätzlichen Ölphase sich die Entmischungs- bzw. Trenngeschwindigkeit reduziert.The thickeners according to the invention are particularly advantageous according to the invention for regulating the separation or separation speed of the two phases according to the invention: the separate lipophilic phase and the microemulsion can be homogenized for a limited time by shaking or stirring. The separation or separation speed of the separate lipophilic phase and microemulsion can be regulated according to the invention by adding hydrophobic and / or hydrophilic thickeners. This regulation is based on the principle that by increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the microemulsion by adding in particular hydrophilic thickeners and / or by increasing the viscosity of the additional oil phase, the separation or separation speed is reduced.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Ausführungsformen der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitung zeichnen sich dadurch aus, dass nach einer Homogenisierung durch Schütteln es innerhalb von 30 Sekunden bis hin zu 2 Stunden wieder zu einer Trennung der Phasen kommt.Particularly preferred embodiments of the preparation according to the invention are characterized in that after homogenization by shaking, the phases are separated again within 30 seconds to 2 hours.
Vorteilhaft, wenn auch nicht zwingend, können die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen Konservierungsmittel enthalten.The preparations according to the invention can advantageously, if not necessarily, contain preservatives.
Vorteilhafte Konservierungsmittel im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Formaldehydabspalter (wie z. B. DMDM Hydantoin, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Glydant ™ von der Fa. Lonza erhältlich ist), lodopropylbutyl- carbamate (z. B. die unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S von der Fa. Lonza erhältlichen und/oder Dekaben LMB von Jan Dekker), Parabene (d. h. p-Hydroxy- benzoesäurealkylester, wie Methyl-, Ethyi-, Propyl- und/oder Butylparaben), Phenoxy- ethanol, Ethanol, Benzoesäure und dergleichen mehr. Üblicherweise umfaßt das Konservierungssystem erfindungsgemäß ferner vorteilhaft auch Konservierungshelfer, wie bei- spielsweise Octoxyglycerin, Glycine Soja etc.Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ™), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L , Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, Benzoic acid and the like. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously includes preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soy, etc.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft lassen sich große Mengen- saurer Aluminium- und/oder Aluminium/Zirkoniumsalze stabil in die Zubereitung einarbeiten. Es können 5 bis 40 Gewichts-%, insbesondere 10 bis 20 Gewichts-% Aluminiumchlorhydrat und/oder Aluminium/Zirkoniumchlorhydrat stabil in die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen eingearbeitet werden. Hierbei beziehen sich die beschriebenen Konzentrationsbereiche auf die sogenannte Aktivgehalte der Antitranspirant-Komplexe: bei den Aluminium- Verbindungen auf wasserfreie Komplexe, bei den Aluminium/Zirkonium-Verbindungen auf wasser- und pufferfreie Komplexe. Als Puffer wird hier üblicherweise Glycin verwendet.According to the invention, large amounts of acidic aluminum and / or aluminum / zirconium salts can advantageously be incorporated stably into the preparation. 5 to 40% by weight, in particular 10 to 20% by weight, aluminum chlorohydrate and / or aluminum / zirconium chlorohydrate can be stably incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. The concentration ranges described here relate to the so-called active contents of the antiperspirant complexes: for the aluminum compounds to anhydrous complexes, for the aluminum / zirconium compounds to anhydrous and buffer-free complexes. Glycine is usually used here as a buffer.
Die nachfolgende Auflistung vorteilhaft einzusetzender Antitranspirant-Wirker soll in keinster Weise einschränkend sein: Aluminium-Salze (der empirischen Summenformel [AI2(OH)mCln], wobei m+n=6):The following list of antiperspirant active ingredients to be used advantageously is in no way intended to be restrictive: Aluminum salts (the empirical empirical formula [AI 2 (OH) m Cl n ], where m + n = 6):
• Aluminium-Salze wie Aluminiumchlorid AICI3, Aluminiumsulfat AI2(SO )3 • Aluminum salts such as aluminum chloride AICI 3 , aluminum sulfate AI 2 (SO) 3
• Aluminiumchlorhydrat [AI2(OH)5CI] x H2O• Aluminum chlorohydrate [AI 2 (OH) 5 CI] x H 2 O
Standard AI-Komplexe: Locron L (Clariant), Chlorhydrol (Reheis), ACH-303 (Summit), Aloxicoll L (Giulini).Standard AI complexes: Locron L (Clariant), chlorohydrol (Reheis), ACH-303 (Summit), Aloxicoll L (Giulini).
Aktivierte AI-Komplexe: Reach 501 (Reheis), AACH-324 (Summit)Activated AI complexes: Reach 501 (Reheis), AACH-324 (Summit)
• Aluminiumsesquichiorhydrat [AI2(OH)4ιSClι,5] x H2O• Aluminum sesquichiorhydrate [AI 2 (OH) 4ιS Clι, 5] x H 2 O
Standard AI-Komplexe: Aluminum Sesquichlorohydrate (Reheis), ACH-308 (Summit), Aloxicoll 31 L (Giulini) Aktivierte AI-Komplexe: Reach 301 (Reheis)Standard AI complexes: Aluminum Sesquichlorohydrate (Reheis), ACH-308 (Summit), Aloxicoll 31 L (Giulini) Activated AI complexes: Reach 301 (Reheis)
• Aluminiumdichlorhydrat [AI2(OH)4CI2] x H2O• Aluminum dichlorohydrate [AI 2 (OH) 4 CI 2 ] x H 2 O
Aluminium-Zirkonium-Salze: • Aluminium/Zirkonium Trichlorhydrex Glycin [AI4Zr(OH)13CI3] x H2O x Gly Standard Al/Zr-Komplexe: Rezal 33GP (Reheis), AZG-7164 (Summit), ZirkonalAluminum-zirconium salts: • Aluminum / zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine [AI 4 Zr (OH) 13 CI 3 ] x H 2 O x Gly Standard Al / Zr complexes: Rezal 33GP (Reheis), AZG-7164 (Summit), zirconal
P3G (Giulini)P3G (Giulini)
Aktivierte Al/Zr-Komplexe: Reach AZZ 902 (Reheis), AAZG-7160 (Summit), Zirkonal AP3G (Giulini)Activated Al / Zr complexes: Reach AZZ 902 (Reheis), AAZG-7160 (Summit), Zirkonal AP3G (Giulini)
• Aluminium/Zirkonium Tetrachlorhydrex Glycin [AI4Zr(OH)12CI ] x H2O x Gly Standard Al/Zr-Komplexe: Rezal 36G (Reheis), AZG-368 (Summit), Zirkonal• Aluminum / zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine [AI 4 Zr (OH) 12 CI] x H 2 O x Gly standard Al / Zr complexes: Rezal 36G (Reheis), AZG-368 (Summit), zirconal
L435G (Giulini) Aktivierte Al/Zr-Komplexe: Reach AZP 855 (Reheis), AAZG-6313-15 (Summit), Zirkonal AP4G (Giulini)L435G (Giulini) Activated Al / Zr complexes: Reach AZP 855 (Reheis), AAZG-6313-15 (Summit), Zirkonal AP4G (Giulini)
• Aluminium/Zirkonium Pentachlorhydrex Glycin [AI8Zr(OH)23CI5] x H2O x Gly Standard Al/Zr-Komplexe: Rezal 67 (Reheis), Zirkonal L540 (Giulini)• Aluminum / zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine [AI 8 Zr (OH) 23 CI 5 ] x H 2 O x Gly Standard Al / Zr complexes: Rezal 67 (Reheis), Zirkonal L540 (Giulini)
Aktivierte Al/Zr-Komplexe: Reach AZN 885 (Reheis)Activated Al / Zr complexes: Reach AZN 885 (Reheis)
• Aluminium/Zirkonium Octachlorhydrex Glycin [AI8Zr(OH)20CI8] x H2O x Gly• Aluminum / zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine [Al 8 Zr (OH) 20 CI 8 ] x H 2 O x Gly
Ebenso von Vorteil können aber auch Glycin-freie Aluminium/Zirkonium-Salze sein.However, glycine-free aluminum / zirconium salts can also be advantageous.
Dabei soll die Verwendung der Antitranspirant-Wirker aus den Rohstoffklassen Aluminium- und Aluminium/Zirkonium-Salzen nicht auf die handelsüblichen zumeist wäßrigen Lösungen, wie z.B. Locron L (Clariant), beschränkt sein, sondern es kann auch von Vorteil sein, die ebenfalls handelsüblichen wasserfreien Pulver derselbigen Rohstoffe durch Einbringung in die beanspruchten Formulierungen zum Einsatz zu bringen, wie z.B. Locron P (Clariant).The use of antiperspirants from the raw material classes aluminum and aluminum / zirconium salts should not be limited to the commercially available, mostly aqueous solutions, such as Locron L (Clariant), but it can also be advantageous to use the commercially available anhydrous solutions Powder of the same raw materials by incorporation into the claimed formulations, such as Locron P (Clariant).
Desweiteren kann es aber auch von Vorteil sein, spezielle Aluminium- und Aluminium/Zirkonium-Salze zum Einsatz zu bringen, die zur Löslichkeitsverbesserung als Glykol-Komplexe angeboten werden.Furthermore, it can also be advantageous to use special aluminum and aluminum / zirconium salts, which are offered as glycol complexes to improve solubility.
Weitere vorteilhafte Antitranspirant-Wirker basieren anstelle von Aluminium bzw. Zirkonium auf anderen Metallen, wie z.B. Beryllium, Titan, Hafnium.Other advantageous antiperspirants are based on other metals, such as e.g. aluminum or zirconium. Beryllium, titanium, hafnium.
Dabei soll die Liste der verwendbaren Antitranspirant-Wirker aber nicht auf metallhaltige Rohstoffe begrenzt sein, sondern von Vorteil sind auch Verbindungen, die Nichtmetalle wie Bor enthalten sowie solche, die dem Bereich der organischen Chemie zuzurechnen sind, wie z.B. Anticholinergika. Vorteilhaft sind in diesem Sinne auch Polymere, die sowohl metallhaltig als auch metallfrei sein können.However, the list of antiperspirant active ingredients that can be used should not be limited to metal-containing raw materials, but also compounds that contain non-metals such as boron and those that belong to the field of organic chemistry, such as e.g. Anticholinergics. In this sense, polymers which can be both metal-containing and metal-free are also advantageous.
Die Zusammensetzungen enthalten gemäß der Erfindung außer den vorgenannten Substanzen gegebenenfalls die in der Kosmetik üblichen Zusatzstoffe, beispielsweise Par- füm, Farbstoffe, antimikrobielle Stoffe, rückfettende Agentien, Komplexierungs- und Se- questrierungsagentien, Perlglanzagentien, weitere Pflanzenextrakte, Vitamine, Wirkstoffe, Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Repellentien, Selbstbräuner, Depigmentierungsmittel, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Emulgatoren, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösemittel oder Silikonderivate.In addition to the substances mentioned above, the compositions according to the invention optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, further plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides , Repellents, self-tanners, depigmenting agents, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as emulsifiers, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
In die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können aber auch andere pharmazeutisch oder dermatologisch wirkende Substanzen wie beispielsweise die Haut beruhigende und pflegende Substanzen eingearbeitet sein. Hierzu zählen beispielsweise Panthenol, Allantoin, Tannin, Aήtihistaminika, Antiphlogistika, Glucocorticoide (z.B. Hydrocortison) sowie Pflanzenwirkstoffe wie Azulen und Bisabolol, Glycyrrhizin, Hamamelin und Pflanzenextrakte wie Kamille, aloe vera, Hamazelis, Süßhoizwurzel. Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können ferner vorteilhaft auch Selbstbräunungssubstanzen enthalten, wie beispielsweise Dihydroxyacteon und/oder Melaninderivate in Konzentrationen von 1 Gew.-% bis zu 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.However, other pharmaceutically or dermatologically active substances such as, for example, skin-soothing and nourishing substances can also be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. These include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, glucocorticoids (e.g. hydrocortisone) as well as plant active ingredients such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, sweet corn root. The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain self-tanning substances, such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
Auch Glycerolaldehyd, Hydroxymethylglyoxal, γ-Dialdehyd, Erythrulose, 6-Aldo-D- Fructose, Ninhydrin, 5-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphtochinon (Juglon), 2-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphtochinon (Lawson) können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft als Selbstbräunungssubstanzen eingesetzt werden.Glycerol aldehyde, hydroxymethylglyoxal, γ-dialdehyde, erythrulose, 6-Aldo-D-fructose, ninhydrin, 5-hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone (juglone), 2-hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone (Lawson) can also be used advantageously according to the invention Self-tanning substances are used.
Ferner vorteilhaft können die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen auch Repellentien zum Schutz vor Mücken, Zecken und Spinnen und dergleichen enthalten. Vorteilhaft sind z. B. N,N-Diethyl-3-methylbenzamid (Handelsbezeichnung: Meta-delphene, „DEET"), Di- methylphtalat (Handelsbezeichnung: Palatinol M, DMP) sowie insbesondere 3-(N-n-Butyl- N-acetyl-amino)-propionsäureethylester (unter dem Handelsnamen Insekt Repellent® 3535 bei der Fa. Merck erhältlich). Die Repellentien können sowohl einzeln als auch in Kombination eingesetzt werden.The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like. Are advantageous for. B. N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Meta-delphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) - ethyl propionate (available under the trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535 from Merck) The repellents can be used both individually and in combination.
Als Moisturizer werden Stoffe oder Stoffgemische bezeichnet, welche kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen die Eigenschaft verleihen, nach dem Auftragen bzw. Verteilen auf der Hautoberfläche die Feuchtigkeitsabgabe der Homschicht (auch trans- epidermal water loss (TEWL) genannt) zu reduzieren und/oder die Hydratation der Homschicht positiv zu beeinflussen.Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the skin layer (also called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the layer on the home.
Vorteilhafte Moisturizer im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Glyce- rin, Milchsäure und/oder Lactate, insbesondere Natriumlactat, Butylenglykol, Propylen- glykol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine Soja, Ethylhexyloxyglycerin, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure und Harnstoff. Ferner ist es insbesondere von Vorteil, polymere Moisturizer aus der Gruppe der wasserlöslichen und/oder in Wasser quellbaren und/oder mit Hilfe von Was- ser gelierbaren Polysaccharide zu verwenden. Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind beispielsweise Hyaluronsäure, Chitosan und/oder ein fucosereiches Polysaccharid, welches in den Chemical Abstracts unter der Registraturnummer 178463-23-5 abgelegt und z. B. unter der Bezeichnung Fucogel®1000 von der Gesellschaft SOLABIA S.A. erhältlich ist. Moisturizer können vorteilhaft auch als Antifaltenwirkstoffe zur Prophylaxe und Behand- lung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Hautveränderungen, wie sie z. B. bei der Hautalterung auftreten, verwendet werden.Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA. Moisturizers can also be used as anti-wrinkle agents for prophylaxis and treatment. treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur in skin aging, are used.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen können ferner vorteilhaft, wenngleich nicht zwingend, Füllstoffe enthalten, welche z. B. die sensorischen und kosmetischen Eigenschaften der Formulierungen weiter verbessern und beispielsweise ein samtiges oder seidiges Hautgefühl hervorrufen oder verstärken. Vorteilhafte Füllstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Stärke und Stärkederivate (wie z. B. Tapiocastärke, Distärkephosphat, Aluminium- bzw. Natrium-Stärke Octenylsuccinat und dergleichen), Pigmente, die weder hauptsächlich UV-Filter- noch färbende Wirkung haben (wie z. B. Bornitrid etc.) und/oder Aerosile® (CAS-Nr. 7631-86-9).The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen können Farbstoffe und/oder Farbpigmente enthalten, insbesondere wenn sie in Form von deko- rativen Kosmetika vorliegen. Dabei können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft die einzelnenThe cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. According to the invention, the individual can advantageously
Phasen der Zubereitung unterschiedlich gefärbt sein. Auch Ausführungsformen derPhases of the preparation may be colored differently. Embodiments of the
Erfindung, bei denen lediglich eine der beiden Phasen gefärbt ist, sind erfindungsgemäßInvention in which only one of the two phases is colored are in accordance with the invention
■ vorteilhaft. Die Farbstoffe und -pigmente können aus der entsprechenden Positivliste der ■ advantageous. The dyes and pigments can be found in the corresponding positive list of
Kosmetikverordnung bzw. der EG-Liste kosmetischer Färbemittel ausgewählt werden. In den meisten Fällen sind sie mit den für Lebensmittel zugelassenen Farbstoffen identisch. Vorteilhafte Farbpigmente sind beispielsweise Titandioxid, Glimmer, Eisenoxide (z. B. Fe2O3, Fe3O4, FeO(OH)) und/oder Zinnoxid. Vorteilhafte Farbstoffe sind beispielsweise Carmin, Berliner Blau, Chromoxidgrün, Ultramarinblau und/oder Manganviolett. Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, die Farbstoffe und/oder Farbpigmente aus dem Rowe Colour Index, 3. Auflage, Society ofDyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971 zu wählen.Cosmetics regulation or the EC list of cosmetic colorants can be selected. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
Sofern die erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen in Form von Produkten vorliegen, welche im Gesicht angewendet werden, ist es günstig, als Farbstoff eine oder mehrere Substanzen aus der folgenden Gruppe zu wählen: 2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzol, 1-(2'-Chlor-4'-nitro-1'- phenylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalin, Ceresrot, 2-(Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-1-naphthol-4-sulfo- säure, Calciumsalz der 2-Hydroxy-1,2,-azonaphthalin-1'-sulfosäure, Calcium- und Bariumsalze der 1-(2-Sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthylcarbonsäure, Calciumsalz der 1-(2-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalin-3-carbonsäure, Aluminiumsalz der 1-(4- Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthol-6-sulfosäure, Aluminiumsalz der 1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthyl- azo)-2-naphthol-3,6-disulfosäure, 1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-6,8-disulfosäure, Aluminiumsalz der ' 4-(4-Sulfo-1 -phenylazo)-1 -(4-sulfophenyl)-5-hydroxy-pyrazolon-3-car- bonsäure, Aluminium- und Zirkoniumsalze von 4,5-Dibromfluorescein, Aluminium- und Zirkoniumsalze von 2,4,5,7-Tetrabromfluorescein, 3,,4',5',6'-Tetrachlor-2,4,5,7-tetrabrom- fluorescein und sein Aluminiumsalz, Aluminiumsalz von 2,4,5,7-Tetraiodfluorescein, Aluminiumsalz der Chinophthalon-disulfosäure, Aluminiumsalz der Indigo-disuifosäure, rotes und schwarzes Eisenoxid (CIN: 77 491 (rot) und 77 499 (schwarz)), Eisenoxidhydrat (CIN: 77 492), Manganammoniumdiphosphat und Titandioxid.If the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2 , -azonaphthalene-1'- sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthyl- azo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of ' 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) - 1 - (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-car- bonsäure, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-Dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-Tetrabromfluorescein, 3, 4 ', 5', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-fluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo-disuifoic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.
Ferner vorteilhaft sind öllösliche Naturfarbstoffe, wie z. B. Paprikaextrakte, ß-Carotin oder Cochenille.Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.
Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner Formulierungen mit einem Gehalt an Perlglanzpigmenten. Bevorzugt sind insbesondere die im folgenden aufgeli- steten Arten von Perlglanzpigmenten:Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
1. Natürliche Perlglanzpigmente, wie z. B.1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.
■ „Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und ■ "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and
■ „Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen) ■ "mother-of-pearl" (ground mussel shells)
2. Monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCI) 3. Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer / Metalloxid2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI) 3rd layer substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
Basis für Perlglanzpigmente sind beispielsweise pulverförmige Pigmente oder Ricinusöl- dispersionen von Bismutoxychlorid und/oder Titandioxid sowie Bismutoxychlorid und/oder Titandioxid auf Glimmer. Insbesondere vorteihaft ist z. B. das unter der CIN 77163 aufgelistete Glanzpigment.Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
Vorteilhaft sind ferner beispielsweise die folgenden Periglanzpigmentarten auf Basis von Glimmer/Metalloxid:The following types of pearlescent pigment based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:
Besonders bevorzugt sind z. B. die von der Firma Merck unter den Handelsnamen Timi- ron, Colorona oder Dichrona erhältlichen Perlglanzpigmente.Z are particularly preferred. B. the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
Die Liste der genannten Perlglanzpigmente soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein. Im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung vorteilhafte Perlglanzpigmente sind auf zahlreichen, an sich bekannten Wegen erhältlich. Beispielsweise lassen sich auch andere Substrate außer Glimmer mit weiteren Metalloxiden beschichten, wie z. B. Silica und dergleichen mehr. -Vorteilhaft sind z. B. mit TiO2 und Fe2O3 beschichtete SiO2-Partikel („Ronaspheren"), die von der Firma Merck vertrieben werden und sich besonders für die optische Reduktion feiner Fältchen eignen.The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like. -Advantages are B. with TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 coated SiO 2 particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.
Es kann darüber hinaus von Vorteil sein, gänzlich auf ein Substrat wie Glimmer zu verzichten. Besonders bevorzugt sind Eisenperlglanzpigmente, welche ohne die Verwendung von Glimmer hergestellt werden. Solche Pigmente sind z. B. unter dem Handelsnamen Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 bei der Firma BASF erhältlich.It can also be advantageous to do without a substrate such as mica. Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred. Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 from BASF.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind ferner auch Effektpigmente, welche unter der Handelsbezeichnung Metasomes Standard / Glitter in verschiedenen Farben (yello, red, green, blue) von der Firma Flora Tech erhältlich sind. Die Glitterpartikel liegen hierbei in Gemischen mit verschiedenen Hilfs- und Farbstoffen (wie beispielsweise den Farbstoffen mit den Colour Index (Cl) Nummern 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491) vor.Also particularly advantageous are effect pigments, which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue). The glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
Die Farbstoffe und Pigmente können sowohl einzeln als auch in Kombination vorliegen sowie gegenseitig miteinander beschichtet sein, wobei durch unterschiedliche Beschich- tungsdicken im allgemeinen verschiedene Farbeffekte hervorgerufen werden. Die Gesamtmenge der Farbstoffe und farbgebenden Pigmente wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von z. B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,5 bis 15 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 1 ,0 bis 10 Gew.-% gewählt, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in combination, and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses. The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageous from the range from Z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
Vorteilhafte Komplexbildner im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise EDTA, [S,S]-Ethylendiamindisuccinat (EDDS), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Octaquest von der Fa. Octel erhältlich ist, Pentanatrium-Ethylendiamin- tetramethylenphosphonat, welches z. B. unter dem Handelsnamen Dequest 2046 von der Fa. Monsanto erhältlich ist und/oder Iminodibersteinsäure, welche u. a. von der Fa. Bayer AG unter den Handelsnamen Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (ca. 30% ige Lösung) und Bay- pure CX 100 fest erhältlich ist.Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which u. a. is firmly available from Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Bayrein CX 100.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ist ferner die Aufbewahrung der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitung in klaren und/oder durchscheinenden Verpackungsbehältnissen aufbewahrt und aus diesen heraus angewendet werden.According to the invention, it is also advantageous to keep the preparation according to the invention in clear and / or translucent packaging containers and to use them out of them.
Die Viskositäten der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen liegen vorteilhaft zwischen wässrig dünn (0-700 mPas) bis hin zu einer fließfähigen Konsistenz (700-4000 mPas). Die sehr dünnflüssigen Zubereitungen könnten in Behältnissen mit Pumpsystemen als Spray oder als Fluid eingesetzt werden.The viscosities of the preparations according to the invention are advantageously between aqueous thin (0-700 mPas) up to a flowable consistency (700-4000 mPas). The very low viscosity preparations could be used in containers with pump systems as a spray or as a fluid.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft als Salbe, Creme oder Lotion eingesetzt werden. Auch ist ihr Einsatz in Form eines Sprays, z.B. eines Pumpsprays erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, . wobei die Zubereitungen vorteilhafterweise auch aufgeschäumt werden können.The preparations according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention as an ointment, cream or lotion. Their use in the form of a spray, e.g. a pump spray advantageous according to the invention,. the preparations can advantageously also be foamed.
Erfindungsgemäß ist die Verwendung von kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen zur Reinigung und/oder Pflege des Körpers, insbesondere der Haut.According to the invention, the use of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for cleaning and / or care of the body, in particular the skin.
Erfindungsgemäß ist außerdem die Verwendung von kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche als Sonnenschutzmittel, Selbstbräunungsmittel und/oder Insektenabwehrmittel. Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen lassen sich nach dem folgenden erfindungsgemäßen Verfahren herstellen:According to the invention, the use of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims is also a sunscreen, self-tanning agent and / or insect repellent. The preparations according to the invention can be produced by the following method according to the invention:
1. Schritt: Herstellung einer Mikroemulsion nach einem für den Fachmann gängigen Verfahren wie beispielsweise dem Phasen-Inversions-Temperatur-Verfahren (PIT-Verfahren).Step 1: Production of a microemulsion according to a process common to the person skilled in the art, such as the phase inversion temperature process (PIT process).
2. Schritt:2nd step:
Herstellung einer wässrigen oder lipophilen Phase über gegebenenfalls eine Erwärmung auf bis zu 90°C um schwerer lösliche Substenzen zu lösen. 3. Schritt:Production of an aqueous or lipophilic phase by, if necessary, heating to up to 90 ° C. in order to dissolve less soluble substances. 3rd step:
Vermischung der unter Schritt 1 hergestellten Mikroemulsion mit der unter Schritt 2 hergestellten wässrigen oder lipophilen Phase. Die Vermischung kann über einfaches Rühren bis hin zu einer starken Homogenisation erfolgen. Dazu wird eine der beiden Phasen (die Mikroemulsion oder die lipophile Phase) in einem ausreichend großen Behältnis vorgelegt und dann die andere Phase unter Rühren dazugegeben. Durch die Stärke des Rührens oder auch Homogenisierens kann die Entmischungsgeschwindigkeit beeinflusst werden. Durch einen hohen Energieeintrag wird, im Gegensatz zu einem niedrigen Energieeintrag (einfaches Rühren) die vollständige Entmischung der beiden Phasen verlangsamt. Es empfiehlt sich vor der Abfüllung in die finalen Behältnisse eine ausreichend gute Homogenisierung sicher zu stellen oder während der Abfüllung zu Rühren, so dass ein konstantes Phasen Volumen Verhältnis eingehalten werden kann. Eine weitere Möglichkeit der Vermischung der beiden Phasen ist das nacheinander (geschichtete) abfüllen die finalen Behältnisse. Mit dieser Art des Abfüllens, können i.d.R. die Volumina der einzelnen Phasen noch genauer eingestellt werden.Mixing the microemulsion prepared in step 1 with the aqueous or lipophilic phase prepared in step 2. The mixing can be done by simple stirring up to a strong homogenization. For this, one of the two phases (the microemulsion or the lipophilic phase) is placed in a sufficiently large container and then the other phase is added with stirring. The rate of segregation can be influenced by the strength of the stirring or homogenization. In contrast to a low energy input (simple stirring), the complete separation of the two phases is slowed down by a high energy input. It is advisable to ensure a sufficiently good homogenization before filling into the final containers or to stir during filling so that a constant phase-volume ratio can be maintained. Another possibility of mixing the two phases is filling the final containers one after the other (layered). With this type of filling, usually the volumes of the individual phases can be set even more precisely.
Bei diesem Verfahren können für das 2-phasige Produkt die Phasen-Volumen- Verhältnisse der Mikroemulsion zu der wässrigen oder lipophilen Phase in einem Verhältnis von 1 :3 bis 3:1 eingestellt werden.In this process, the phase-volume ratios of the microemulsion to the aqueous or lipophilic phase can be set in a ratio of 1: 3 to 3: 1 for the 2-phase product.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht anders angegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen bezogen. Beispiele:The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. Examples:
1. 2-phasige Sonnenschutzzubereitungen mit einer O/W-Mikroemulsion und einer lipophilen Phase.1. 2-phase sunscreen preparations with an O / W microemulsion and a lipophilic phase.
2. 2-phasige Zubereitungen mit einer O/W-Mikroemulsion und einer lipophilen Phase.2. 2-phase preparations with an O / W microemulsion and a lipophilic phase.
6713Wzbe200-139 6713Wzbe200-139

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Zweiphasige kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, wobei die erste Phase aus einer Mikroemulsion und die zweite Phase aus einer lipophilen Phase gebildet wird.1. Two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, the first phase being formed from a microemulsion and the second phase from a lipophilic phase.
2. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 dadurch, gekennzeichnet, dass sie die lipophile Phase in einer Menge von 5 bis 95 Vol.-%, insbesondere 10 bis 90 Vol % bezogen auf das Gesamtvolumen der Zubereitung enthalten. 2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain the lipophilic phase in an amount of 5 to 95 vol .-%, in particular 10 to 90 vol% based on the total volume of the preparation.
3. Zubereitungen nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Mikroemulsion eine O/W-Emulsion ist.3. Preparations according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the microemulsion is an O / W emulsion.
4. Zubereitungen nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Tröpfchengröße der inneren Phase der Mikroemulsion 10 bis 500 nm beträgt.4. Preparations according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the droplet size of the inner phase of the microemulsion is 10 to 500 nm.
5. Zubereitungen nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Wirk-, Hilfs-und/oder Zusatzstoffe enthalten.5. Preparations according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives.
6. Zubereitungen nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie in klaren und/oder durchscheinenden Verpackungsbehältnissen aufbewahrt und aus diesen heraus angewendet werden.6. Preparations according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they are kept in clear and / or translucent packaging containers and are used from these.
7. Zubereitungen nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie ein oder mehrere UV-Filtersubstanzen enthalten.7. Preparations according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they contain one or more UV filter substances.
8. Zubereitungen nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie eine oder mehrere Selbstbräunungssubstanzen enthalten.8. Preparations according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that they contain one or more self-tanning substances.
9. Zubereitungen nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie ein oder mehrere Repellentien enthalten. 9. Preparations according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they contain one or more repellents.
10. Verfahren zur Herstellung von Zubereitungen nach einem der vorhergehenden10. Process for the preparation of preparations according to one of the preceding
Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Mikroemulsion und die lipophile Phase zunächst in getrennten Gefäßen zubereitet und anschließend vereinigt werden.Claims, characterized in that the microemulsion and the lipophilic phase are first prepared in separate vessels and then combined.
11. Verwendung von kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche zur Reinigung und Pflege des Körpers, insbesondere der Haut.11. Use of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims for cleaning and care of the body, in particular the skin.
12. Verwendung von kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche als Sonnenschutzmittel, Selbstbräunungsmittel und/oder Insektenabwehrmittel.12. Use of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims as a sunscreen, self-tanning agent and / or insect repellent.
13. Verwendung von Verdickern zur Einstellung der Trenngeschwindigkeit der beiden Phasen von Zubereitungen nach einem der vorhergehendenden Ansprüche. 13. Use of thickeners to adjust the separation speed of the two phases of preparations according to one of the preceding claims.
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