EP1303254A1 - Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising dhea and/or a precursor or derivative thereof, combined with at least a no-synthase inhibitor - Google Patents

Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising dhea and/or a precursor or derivative thereof, combined with at least a no-synthase inhibitor

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Publication number
EP1303254A1
EP1303254A1 EP01945389A EP01945389A EP1303254A1 EP 1303254 A1 EP1303254 A1 EP 1303254A1 EP 01945389 A EP01945389 A EP 01945389A EP 01945389 A EP01945389 A EP 01945389A EP 1303254 A1 EP1303254 A1 EP 1303254A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition
composition according
dhea
precursor
derivative
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP01945389A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Marie-Madeleine Cals-Grierson
Roland Roguet
Guy Courchay
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP1303254A1 publication Critical patent/EP1303254A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9771—Ginkgophyta, e.g. Ginkgoaceae [Ginkgo family]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/06—Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/75—Anti-irritant
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

Definitions

  • composition in particular cosmetic, comprising DHEA and / or a precursor or derivative thereof, in combination with at least one inhibitor of NO-synthase
  • the invention relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, DHEA and / or a precursor or chemical or biological derivative thereof, in combination with at least one inhibitor of NO-synthase, as well as to its uses.
  • NO-synthase covers a family of enzymes which ensure the enzymatic catalysis of L-arginine into citrulline, during which catalysis is produced a gaseous mediator with multiple functions, nitrogen monoxide or NO. Due to its electronic hyperreactivity linked to the presence of an additional electron in its structure, NO can cause degradation or even destruction of cells, and is therefore particularly involved in intrinsic and / or extrinsic aging of the skin.
  • NO is a multifunctional signal molecule active in a wide variety of body systems and tissues. It is notably well accepted that NO plays a preponderant role in the skin. NO can indeed be synthesized by all varieties of cells constituting the skin and as such it intervenes in multiple and complex regulatory processes such as the regulation of cell differentiation and / or proliferation, vasodilation, melanogenesis, of the response to, environmental variations (homeostasis).
  • NO plays a role in contact hypersensitivity reactions, in allergic skin manifestations, in the skin's immune response.
  • calcitonin gene related peptide or CGRP calcitonin gene related peptide
  • NO in vasodilation makes it associated with skin erythemas, particularly erythemas induced by ultraviolet radiation. NO is also recognized as an intermediary in melanogenesis induced by. Type B ultraviolet radiation (UVB). Finally, NO seems to be involved in the control of sweating as well as in that of lipolysis (inhibitory effect) or even in the fall hair.
  • NMMA N G -monomethyl-L-arginine
  • NAME N G -nitro-L-arginine
  • NNA N G -nitro-L-arginine
  • NAA N G -amino-L-arginine
  • ADMA diphenyleneiodonium chloride
  • 2- (4-carboxyphenyl) -4,4,5 5-tetramethylimidazoline-1-oxy-3-oxide
  • 7-nitroindazoIe N (5) - (1-iminoethyl) -L-ornithine, aminoguanidine
  • canavanine and ebselen N G -monomethyl-L-arginine
  • NO-synthase inhibitors more suitable for cosmetic application have been described. These are in particular lipochroman-6 (FR 00/05520), grape extract (FR 00/05521), olive tree (FR 00/05522) or gingko biloba (FR 00/05523) or epicatechin (FR 00/05524).
  • DHEA dehydroepiandrosterone
  • JP-07 196 467 JP-07 196 467
  • US Pat. No. 4,496,556 The use of DHEA to remedy dermal atrophy by inhibiting the loss of collagen and connective tissue has also been described in US Pat. No. 5,843,932. It has also been described in US Pat. No.
  • DHEA esters in particular DHEA salicylate
  • DHEA sulfate to treat various signs of aging such as wrinkles, loss of radiance and sagging skin
  • the subject of the invention is therefore a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, DHEA and / or a precursor or chemical or biological derivative thereof, in combination with at least one NO synthase inhibitor.
  • DHEA has the following formula (I):
  • precursors of DHEA is meant its biological precursors which are capable of transforming into DHEA during metabolism, as well as its chemical precursors which can transform into DHEA by exogenous chemical reaction.
  • biological precursors are ⁇ 5-pregnenolone, 17 ⁇ -hydroxy pregnenolone and 17 ⁇ -hydroxy pregnenolone sulfate, without this list being limiting.
  • Examples of chemical precursors are sapogenins and their derivatives, such as diosgenin (or spirost-5-en-3-beta-ol), hecogenin, hecogenin acetate, smilagenin and sarsapogenin, as well as natural extracts containing it, in particular fenugreek and extracts of Dioscorea such as wild yam root or Wild Yam, without this list being exhaustive.
  • PHEA derivatives is understood to mean both its biological derivatives and its chemical derivatives.
  • biological derivatives there may be mentioned in particular ⁇ 5-androstene-3,17-diol and ⁇ 4-and . rqstè ⁇ e-3,17-diqne, without this list being exhaustive.
  • DHEA salts in particular water-soluble salts, such as DHEA sulfate.
  • esters such as the esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids and of DHEA described in particular in US Pat. No.
  • the NO-synthase inhibitor is chosen from the compounds inhibiting the synthesis and / or accelerating the catabolism of NO-synthase, the compounds neutralizing NO-synthase or the compounds intervening by modulating the signal transduced by NO synthase.
  • NO-synthase inhibitors are products which make it possible, in situ on humans, to partially or even completely inhibit the synthesis of nitrogen monoxide (NO).
  • NO-synthases exist in three forms, namely two constitutive forms grouping together neuro.nal NO-synthase (or NOS 1) and endothelial NO-synthase (or NOS 3), and an inducible form (or NOS 2) (Medicine / Sciences, 1992, 8, pp. 843-845).
  • NOS 1 neuro.nal NO-synthase
  • NOS 3 endothelial NO-synthase
  • NOS 2 an inducible form
  • the term NO-synthase covers all of the isoforms of the enzyme.
  • the NO synthase inhibitor can be chosen from: N G -monomethyl-L-arginine (NA), N G -nitro-L-arginine; the methyl ester of N G -nitro-L-arginine; diphenyleneiodonium chloride; 7-nitroindazole; N (5) - (1-iminoethyl) -L-omithine, NG, NG-dimethyl-L-arginine; NG.NG-dimethyl-arginine; the
  • the NO-synthase inhibitor according to the invention can be chosen from: lipochroman-6, an extract of grape, olive or gingko biloba or epicatechin.
  • Lipochroman-6 is a compound corresponding to the general formula:
  • grain extract is meant a plant extract of the species Vitis vinifera which is in particular marketed by the company Euromed under the name Leucocyanidines de raisins extra, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect ® , or finally by the Hansen company under the name grape marc extract.
  • “olive extract” means a plant extract of the species Olea europaea which is preferably obtained from olive leaves. This extract is in particular marketed by the company VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by the company Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol BT.
  • extract of Gingko biloba means an extract of a plant of the species Gingko biloba.
  • a dry aqueous extract of this plant is used, sold by the company Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgp biloba standard extract.
  • Epichatechin or 2- [3,4-dihydroxyphenyl] -3,4-dihydro-1 [2H] -benzopyran-3, 5; 7-triol is a natural component of green tea. It can be in the form of two enantiomers, namely: (+) - epichatechin or [2S, 3S] -2- [3,4-dihydrqxyphenyl] -3,4-dihydro-1 [2H] - benzopyran-3 , 5, 7-triol; and (-) - epichatechin or [2S, 3S] -2- [3,4-dihydroxyphenyl] -3,4- dihydro-1 [2H] -benzopyran-3, 5, 7-triol.
  • each of these compounds can be used alone.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a mixture in any proportion of (+) - epichatechin and (-) - epichatechin.
  • the invention also relates to analogues of epichatechin and / or its derivatives with the exception of epichatechin-gallate.
  • epiçatechin is understood unless otherwise indicated, as meaning the (+) epichatechin or (-) epichatechin or a mixture in any proportion of (+) - epichatechin and (- ) -epichatechin, as well as analogues of epichatechin and / or its derivatives with the exception of epichatechin-ga.Nate.
  • the composition according to the invention can be intended for topical application to the skin or the hair.
  • DHEA and / or its analogs can be present in an amount ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • DHEA and / or its analogs may be present in an amount of about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the NO synthase inhibitor can, for its part, represent from 0.001 to 1% of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can be in all the galenical forms normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, and it can be in particular in the form of an aqueous solution possibly gelled, of a dispersion of the lotion type possibly biphasic, of an emulsion obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or a triple emulsion (W / O / W or O / W / O) or a vesicular dispersion of ionic and / or nonionic type.
  • These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
  • This composition can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. . It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, in particular in the form of a stick. It can be used as a care product and / or as a make-up product for the skin.
  • composition according to the invention may alternatively be a hair composition, in particular in the form of shampoo or conditioner, for example.
  • the composition of the invention may also contain the adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, pigments, odor absorbers and coloring matters.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
  • These adjuvants depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase, into the lipid vesicles and / or into the nanoparticles. In any event, these adjuvants, as well as their proportions, will be chosen so as not to harm the desired properties of the combination of active agents according to the invention.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration.
  • the emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • oils used in the invention include mineral oils ( "petrolatum), vegetable oils (avocado oil, soybean oil), animal oils (lanolin), oils synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene), silicone oils (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers), fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol), fatty acids, waxes (camauba wax, ozokerite) can also be used.
  • emulsifiers and coemulsifiers which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned, for example, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as PEG-20 stearate, and fatty acid and glycerin esters such as glyceryl stearate .
  • hydrophilic gelling agents mention may be made in particular of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomers), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, cite modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes.
  • carboxyvinyl polymers carboxyvinyl polymers
  • acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers
  • polyacrylamides polysaccharides
  • natural gums and clays and, as lipophilic gelling agents, cite modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes.
  • active agents depigmentants and keratolytic and / or scaling agents can be used in particular.
  • the active agents indicated above and / or the analogs of DHEA according to the invention can be incorporated into spherules, in particular ionic or nonionic vesicles and / or nanoparticles (nanocapsules and / or nanospheres) , so as to isolate them from each other in the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can be intended for oral administration.
  • it can be in any dosage form suitable for this mode of administration, for example in the form of tablets which may or may not be broken, granules, capsules, capsules, solutes, suspensions or solutions comprising an excipient appropriate.
  • the daily doses of DHEA or analogues administered orally can be between 1 and 100 mg / day, preferably between 25 and 75 mg / day.
  • DHEA or the like is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount allowing its administration at a dose of between 50 and 100 mg / day, said dosage being carried out in one or more doses, with a unit dose of 50 mg. .
  • composition according to the invention can be used to prevent and / or treat irritation of the skin and / or sensitive skin and / or signs of skin aging.
  • skin irritation is intended to mean any form of irritation resulting from the application to the skin of chemicals of natural or synthetic origin, for example used in cosmetics or dermatology, and which can be expressed, in particular, by redness, pain or tingling.
  • sensitive skin covers both irritable and / or reactive skin and intolerant skin.
  • Irritable and / or reactive skin is skin which reacts by pruritus, that is to say by itching or tingling, to various factors such as the environment, emotions, food, wind, friction, razor, soap, surfactants, hard water with a high concentration of limestone, temperature variations or wool.
  • these signs are associated with dry skin with or without sores or with skin that has an erythema.
  • Intolerant skin is skin that reacts with sensations of heating, tightness, tingling and / or redness, to various factors such as the environment, emotions, food and certain cosmetic products. In general, these signs are associated with hyperseborrheic or acne-prone skin with or without sores and erythema.
  • signals of skin aging is meant any change in the external appearance of the skin due to aging, whether chronobiological and / or photo-induced, such as wrinkles and fine lines, withered skin. , flabby skin, thinned skin, or the lack of elasticity and / or tone of the skin.
  • the present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating irritation of the skin and / or sensitive skin and / or signs of skin aging, comprising the topical or oral administration of a composition comprising DHEA and / or a precursor or chemical or biological derivative thereof, in combination with at least one NO-synthase inhibitor.
  • composition according to the invention can be used for the treatment of hair and / or scalp, in particular to prevent and / or treat canities and / or hair loss.
  • the present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for treating hair and / or scalp comprising the topical or oral administration of the composition according to the invention.
  • the composition according to the invention can be used as a slimming composition.
  • DHEA is indeed known for its inhibitory effect on differentiation of adipocytes, while inhibitors of NO synthase have already been described as capable of acting as stimulants of lipolysis.
  • the combination of these two types of active ingredients therefore makes it possible to reinforce their effects with a view to refining the silhouette in a more visible manner.
  • Soft capsules are prepared, conventionally for those skilled in the art, having the following composition:
  • Example 2 Composition for topical application
  • a treatment cream oil-in-water emulsion having the following composition is prepared, conventionally for a person skilled in the art:
  • Polysorbate 60 (Tween 60 ® sold by the company ICI) 1%

Abstract

The invention concerns a composition for oral or topical administration, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, DHEA and/or a chemical or biological precursor or derivative thereof, combined with at least a NO-synthase inhibitor. Said composition can be used for cosmetic purposes, to prevent or treat skin irritation and/or sensitive skins and/or skin ageing symptoms. In another embodiment, it can be used for scalp and/or hair treatment, or again as slimming composition. The NO-synthase inhibitor can in particular be selected among: lipochroman-6, a grape, olive-tree or Gingko biloba extract or epicatechin.

Description

Composition, notamment cosmétique, comprenant la DHEA et/ou un précurseur ou dérivé de celle-ci, en association avec au moins un inhibiteur de NO-synthase Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising DHEA and / or a precursor or derivative thereof, in combination with at least one inhibitor of NO-synthase
L'invention se rapporte à une composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, la DHEA et/ou un précurseur ou dérivé chimique ou biologique de celle-ci, en association avec au moins un inhibiteur de NO-synthase, ainsi qu'à ses utilisations.The invention relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, DHEA and / or a precursor or chemical or biological derivative thereof, in combination with at least one inhibitor of NO-synthase, as well as to its uses.
Le terme NO-synthase recouvre une famille d'enzymes qui assurent la catalyse enzymatique de la L-arginine en citrulline, catalyse au cours de laquelle est produit un médiateur gazeux aux multiples fonctions, le monoxyde d'azote ou NO. Du fait de son hyperréactivité électronique liée à la présence d'un électron supplémentaire dans sa structure, le NO peut entraîner une dégradation voire une destruction des cellules, et est à ce titre notamment impliqué dans le vieillissement intrinsèque et/ou extrinsèque de la peau.The term NO-synthase covers a family of enzymes which ensure the enzymatic catalysis of L-arginine into citrulline, during which catalysis is produced a gaseous mediator with multiple functions, nitrogen monoxide or NO. Due to its electronic hyperreactivity linked to the presence of an additional electron in its structure, NO can cause degradation or even destruction of cells, and is therefore particularly involved in intrinsic and / or extrinsic aging of the skin.
Plus généralement, le NO est une molécule signal multifonctionnelle active dans une grande variété de systèmes et de tissus du corps. Il est notamment bien admis que le NO joue un rôle prépondérant dans la peau. Le NO peut en effet être synthétisé par toutes les variétés de cellules constituant la peau et à ce titre il intervient dans de multiples et complexes processus de régulation tels que la régulation de la différenciation et/ou de la prolifération cellulaire, de la vasodilatation, de la mélanogenèse, de la réponse aux , variations environnementales (homéostasie).More generally, NO is a multifunctional signal molecule active in a wide variety of body systems and tissues. It is notably well accepted that NO plays a preponderant role in the skin. NO can indeed be synthesized by all varieties of cells constituting the skin and as such it intervenes in multiple and complex regulatory processes such as the regulation of cell differentiation and / or proliferation, vasodilation, melanogenesis, of the response to, environmental variations (homeostasis).
Il intervient également dans les processus immunologiques et inflammatoires cutanés. Il est en effet communément admis que le NO joue un rôle dans les réactions d'hypersensibilité de contact, dans les manifestations allergiques cutanées, dans la réponse immunitaire de la peau. De même, outre son rôle pro-inflammatoire direct, il est le médiateur entre les neuropeptides comme la substance P et/ou le peptide associé au gène de la calcitonine (calcitonin gène related peptide ou CGRP) dans les processus inflammatoires neurogéniques cutanés, d'où son implication dans les phénomènes de peau dite sensible.It is also involved in the skin's immunological and inflammatory processes. It is indeed commonly accepted that NO plays a role in contact hypersensitivity reactions, in allergic skin manifestations, in the skin's immune response. Similarly, in addition to its direct pro-inflammatory role, it is the mediator between neuropeptides such as substance P and / or the peptide associated with the calcitonin gene (calcitonin gene related peptide or CGRP) in cutaneous neurogenic inflammatory processes, of where its involvement in so-called sensitive skin phenomena.
L'implication du NO dans la vasodilatation fait qu'il est associé aux érythèmes cutanés, particulièrement les érythèmes induits par les rayonnements ultra-violets. Le NO est également reconnu comme intermédiaire dans la mélanogenèse induite par les . rayonnements ultra-violets de type B (UVB). Enfin, le NO semble impliqué dans le contrôle de la sudation ainsi que dans celui de la lipolyse (effet inhibiteur) ou encore dans la chute des cheveux.The involvement of NO in vasodilation makes it associated with skin erythemas, particularly erythemas induced by ultraviolet radiation. NO is also recognized as an intermediary in melanogenesis induced by. Type B ultraviolet radiation (UVB). Finally, NO seems to be involved in the control of sweating as well as in that of lipolysis (inhibitory effect) or even in the fall hair.
On comprend donc l'intérêt qui existe à disposer d'inhibiteurs des NO-synthases. A cet égard de nombreux inhibiteurs ont déjà été proposés dans l'art antérieur. On peut citer plus particulièrement la NG-monométhyl-L-arginine (NMMA), l'ester méthylé de la NG-nitro-L- arginine (NAME), la NG-nitro-L-arginine (NNA), la NG-amino-L-arginine (NAA), la NG.NG- diméthyl-arginine (la diméthylarginine asymétrique, dénommée ADMA), le chlorure de diphénylèneiodonium, le 2-(4-carboxyphényl)-4,4,5,5-tetraméthylimidazoline-1-oxy-3-oxyde, la 7-nitroindazoIe, la N(5)-(1-iminoéthyl)-L-ornithine, l'aminoguanidine, la canavanine et l'ebselen.We therefore understand the interest that exists in having inhibitors of NO-synthases. In this regard, numerous inhibitors have already been proposed in the prior art. Mention may more particularly be made of N G -monomethyl-L-arginine (NMMA), the methyl ester of N G -nitro-L-arginine (NAME), N G -nitro-L-arginine (NNA), N G -amino-L-arginine (NAA), N G .N G - dimethyl-arginine (asymmetric dimethylarginine, called ADMA), diphenyleneiodonium chloride, 2- (4-carboxyphenyl) -4,4,5 , 5-tetramethylimidazoline-1-oxy-3-oxide, 7-nitroindazoIe, N (5) - (1-iminoethyl) -L-ornithine, aminoguanidine, canavanine and ebselen.
Plus récemment, d'autres inhibiteurs de NO-synthase plus appropriés à une application cosmétique ont été décrits. Il s'agit en particulier du lipochroman-6 (FR 00/05520), d'un extrait de raisin (FR 00/05521), d'olivier (FR 00/05522) ou de gingko biloba (FR 00/05523) ou de l'épicatéchine (FR 00/05524).More recently, other NO-synthase inhibitors more suitable for cosmetic application have been described. These are in particular lipochroman-6 (FR 00/05520), grape extract (FR 00/05521), olive tree (FR 00/05522) or gingko biloba (FR 00/05523) or epicatechin (FR 00/05524).
Toutefois, il subsiste le besoin de renforcer l'efficacité de ces composés dans la prévention et/ou le traitement'de certains désordres, notamment cutanés.However, there remains the need to reinforce the effectiveness of these compounds in the prevention and / or treatment of certain disorders, in particular skin.
Or, il est apparu à la Demanderesse que la DHEA et/ou ses précurseurs ou dérivés chimiques ou biologiques pouvaient permettre d'améliorer l'efficacité des compositions comprenant des inhibiteurs de NO-synthase. ,However, it appeared to the Applicant that DHEA and / or its precursors or chemical or biological derivatives could make it possible to improve the effectiveness of the compositions comprising inhibitors of NO-synthase. ,
La DHEA, ou déhydroépiandrostérone, est un stéroïde naturel produit essentiellement par les glandes corticosurrenales. Elle est connue pour sa capacité à promouvoir la kératinisation de l'épider e (JP-07 196 467), ou encore dans le traitement des peaux sèches, en raison de son aptitude à augmenter la production endogène et la sécrétion de sébum et à renforcer l'effet barrière de la peau (US-4,496,556). Il a également été décrit dans le brevet US- 5,843,932 l'utilisation de la DHEA pour remédier à l'atrophie du derme par inhibition de la perte de collagène et de tissu conjonctif. Il a en outre été décrit dans le brevet US-5,736,537 l'utilisation par voie orale d'esters de DHEA, en particulier du salicylate de DHEA, peur réguler l'atrophie de la peau due à un amincissement ou une dégradation générale du derme. Il a enfin été proposé d'utiliser le sulfate de DHEA pour traiter différents signes du vieillissement tels que les rides, la perte d'éclat de la peau et le relâchement cutané (EP-0 723 775).DHEA, or dehydroepiandrosterone, is a natural steroid produced primarily by the adrenal glands. It is known for its ability to promote keratinization of the epidermis (JP-07 196 467), or even in the treatment of dry skin, due to its ability to increase endogenous production and sebum secretion and to strengthen the barrier effect of the skin (US Pat. No. 4,496,556). The use of DHEA to remedy dermal atrophy by inhibiting the loss of collagen and connective tissue has also been described in US Pat. No. 5,843,932. It has also been described in US Pat. No. 5,736,537 the oral use of DHEA esters, in particular DHEA salicylate, in order to regulate the atrophy of the skin due to thinning or general degradation of the dermis. It has finally been proposed to use DHEA sulfate to treat various signs of aging such as wrinkles, loss of radiance and sagging skin (EP-0 723 775).
Toutefois, >à la connaissance de la Demanderesse, il n'a encore jamais été suggéré d'associer la DHEA et/ou ses précurseurs ou dérivés à un inhibiteur de NO-synthase.However,> to the knowledge of the Applicant, it has never been suggested to combine DHEA and / or its precursors or derivatives with an inhibitor of NO-synthase.
L'invention a donc pour objet une composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, la DHEA et/ou un précurseur ou dérivé chimique ou biologique de celle-ci, en association avec au moins un inhibiteur de NO-synthase.The subject of the invention is therefore a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, DHEA and / or a precursor or chemical or biological derivative thereof, in combination with at least one NO synthase inhibitor.
La DHEA a la formule (I) suivante :DHEA has the following formula (I):
Elle est par exemple disponible auprès de la société AKZO NOBEL.It is for example available from the company AKZO NOBEL.
Par précurseurs de la DHEA, on entend ses précurseurs biologiques qui sont susceptibles de se transformer en DHEA au cours du métabolisme, ainsi que ses précurseurs chimiques qui peuvent se transformer en DHEA par réaction chimique exogène. Des exemples de précurseurs biologiques sont la Δ5-prégnénolone, la 17α-hydroxy prégnenolone et le sulfate de 17α-hydroxy prégnenolone, sans que cette liste soit limitative. Des exemples de précurseurs chimiques sont les sapogénjnes et leurs dérivés, tels que la diosgénine (ou spirost-5-èn-3-beta-ol), l'hécogénine, l'acétate d'hécogénine, le smilagénine et la sarsapogénine, ainsi que les extraits naturels en contenai n, en particulier le fenugrec et les extraits de Dioscorées telles que la racine d'igname sauvage ou Wild Yam, sans que cette liste soit limitative.By precursors of DHEA is meant its biological precursors which are capable of transforming into DHEA during metabolism, as well as its chemical precursors which can transform into DHEA by exogenous chemical reaction. Examples of biological precursors are Δ5-pregnenolone, 17α-hydroxy pregnenolone and 17α-hydroxy pregnenolone sulfate, without this list being limiting. Examples of chemical precursors are sapogenins and their derivatives, such as diosgenin (or spirost-5-en-3-beta-ol), hecogenin, hecogenin acetate, smilagenin and sarsapogenin, as well as natural extracts containing it, in particular fenugreek and extracts of Dioscorea such as wild yam root or Wild Yam, without this list being exhaustive.
Par dérivés de la PHEA, on entend aussi bien ses dérivés biologiques que ses dérivés chimiques. Comme dérivés biologiques, on peut citer notamment le Δ5-androstène-3,17-diol et la Δ4-and.rqstèπe-3,17-diqne, sans que cette liste soit limitative. Comme dérivés chimiques, on peut citer notamment les sels de DHEA, en particulier les sels hydrosolubles, tels que le sulfate de DHEA. On peut citer également les esters, tels que les esters d'acides hydroxycarboxyliques et de DHEA décrits notamment dans US-5,736,537 ou les autres esters tels que le salicylate, l'acétate, le valérate (ou n-heptanoate) et l'énanthate de DHEA. On peut également citer les dérivés de DHEA (carbamates de DHEA, esters de 2-hydroxy malonate de DHEA et esters d'amino-acides de DHEA) décrits dans la demande FR 00/03846 au nom de la Demanderesse. Cette liste n'est évidemment pas limitative.The term PHEA derivatives is understood to mean both its biological derivatives and its chemical derivatives. As biological derivatives, there may be mentioned in particular Δ5-androstene-3,17-diol and Δ4-and . rqstèπe-3,17-diqne, without this list being exhaustive. As derivatives chemical, mention may in particular be made of DHEA salts, in particular water-soluble salts, such as DHEA sulfate. Mention may also be made of esters, such as the esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids and of DHEA described in particular in US Pat. No. 5,736,537 or the other esters such as salicylate, acetate, valerate (or n-heptanoate) and enanthate of DHEA. Mention may also be made of the DHEA derivatives (DHEA carbamates, DHEA 2-hydroxy malonate esters and DHEA amino acid esters) described in application FR 00/03846 in the name of the Applicant. This list is obviously not exhaustive.
Les précurseurs et dérivés biologiques et chimiques de DHEA seront désignés ci-dessous par "analogues de DHEA".The biological and chemical precursors and derivatives of DHEA will be designated below by "analogs of DHEA".
De son côté, l'inhibiteur de NO-synthase est choisi parmi les composés inhibant la synthèse et/ou accélérant le catabolisme de la NO-synthase, les composés neutralisant la NO- synthase ou les composés intervenant en modulant le signal transduit par la NO-synthase. Ainsi, selon l'invention, les inhibiteurs de NO-synthase sont des produits qui permettent in situ sur l'homme d'inhiber partiellement, voire totalement, la synthèse de monoxyde d'azote (NO).For its part, the NO-synthase inhibitor is chosen from the compounds inhibiting the synthesis and / or accelerating the catabolism of NO-synthase, the compounds neutralizing NO-synthase or the compounds intervening by modulating the signal transduced by NO synthase. Thus, according to the invention, NO-synthase inhibitors are products which make it possible, in situ on humans, to partially or even completely inhibit the synthesis of nitrogen monoxide (NO).
Les NO-synthases existent sous trois formes, à savoir deux formes constitutives regroupant la NO-synthase neuro.nale (ou NOS 1) et la NO-synthase endothéliale (ou NOS 3), et une forme inductible (ou NOS 2) (Médecine/Sciences, 1992, 8, pp. 843-845). Dans la présente demande, le terme NO-synthase recouvre l'ensemble des isoformes de l'enzyme.NO-synthases exist in three forms, namely two constitutive forms grouping together neuro.nal NO-synthase (or NOS 1) and endothelial NO-synthase (or NOS 3), and an inducible form (or NOS 2) (Medicine / Sciences, 1992, 8, pp. 843-845). In the present application, the term NO-synthase covers all of the isoforms of the enzyme.
L'inhibiteur de la NO-synthase peut être choisi parmi : la NG-monométhyl-L-arginine (N A), la NG-nitro-L-arginine ; l'ester méthylé de la NG-nitro-L-arginine ; le chlorure de diphénylèneiodonium ; la 7-nitroindazole ; la N(5)-(1-iminoèthyl)-L-omithine, la NG,NG-diméthyl-L-arginine ; la NG.NG-diméthyl-arginine ; leThe NO synthase inhibitor can be chosen from: N G -monomethyl-L-arginine (NA), N G -nitro-L-arginine; the methyl ester of N G -nitro-L-arginine; diphenyleneiodonium chloride; 7-nitroindazole; N (5) - (1-iminoethyl) -L-omithine, NG, NG-dimethyl-L-arginine; NG.NG-dimethyl-arginine; the
2-(4-carboxyphényl)-4,4,5,5-tetraméthylimidazoline-1-oxy-3-oxyde ; Paminoguanidine ; la canavanine et Pebselen.2- (4-carboxyphenyl) -4,4,5,5-tetramethylimidazoline-1-oxy-3-oxide; Paminoguanidine; canavanine and Pebselen.
En variante, et selon une forme d'exécution préférée, l'inhibiteur de NO-synthase selon l'invention peut être choisi parmi : le lipochroman-6, un extrait de raisin, d'olivier ou de gingko biloba ou l'épicatéchine.Alternatively, and according to a preferred embodiment, the NO-synthase inhibitor according to the invention can be chosen from: lipochroman-6, an extract of grape, olive or gingko biloba or epicatechin.
Le lipochroman-6 est un composé répondant à la formule générale : Lipochroman-6 is a compound corresponding to the general formula:
Par "extrait de raisin", on entend un extrait de végétal de l'espèce Vitis vinifera qui est notamment commercialisé par la société Euromed sous la dénomination Leucocyanidines de raisins extra, ou encore par la société Indena sous la dénomination Leucoselect®, ou enfin par la société Hansen sous la dénomination extrait de marc de raisin.By "grape extract" is meant a plant extract of the species Vitis vinifera which is in particular marketed by the company Euromed under the name Leucocyanidines de raisins extra, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect ® , or finally by the Hansen company under the name grape marc extract.
Par "extrait d'olivier", on entend un extrait de végétal de l'espèce Olea europaea qui est de préférence obtenu à partir de feuilles d'olivier. Cet extrait est notamment commercialisé par la société VINYALS sous forme d'extrait sec, ou par la société Biologia & Technologia sous la dénomination commerciale Eurol BT.By "olive extract" means a plant extract of the species Olea europaea which is preferably obtained from olive leaves. This extract is in particular marketed by the company VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by the company Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol BT.
Par "extrait de Gingko biloba", on entend un extrait d'un végétal de l'espèce Gingko biloba. Preferentiellement selon l'invention, on utilise un extrait aqueux sec de ce végétal vendu par la société Beaufour sous le nom commercial Ginkgp biloba extrait standard.By "extract of Gingko biloba" means an extract of a plant of the species Gingko biloba. Preferably according to the invention, a dry aqueous extract of this plant is used, sold by the company Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgp biloba standard extract.
L'épichatéchine ou 2-[3,4-dihydroxyphenyl]-3,4-dihydro-1 [2H]-benzopyran-3, 5; 7-triol est un composant naturel du thé vert. Elle peut se présenter sous la forme de deux énantiomères à savoir : la (+)-épichatéçhine ou [2S, 3S]-2-[3,4-dihydrqxyphenyl]-3,4-dihydro-1[2H]- benzopyran-3, 5, 7-triol ; et la (-)-épichatéchine ou [2S, 3S]-2-[3,4-dihydroxyphenyl]-3,4- dihydro-1[2H]-benzopyran-3, 5, 7-triol.Epichatechin or 2- [3,4-dihydroxyphenyl] -3,4-dihydro-1 [2H] -benzopyran-3, 5; 7-triol is a natural component of green tea. It can be in the form of two enantiomers, namely: (+) - epichatechin or [2S, 3S] -2- [3,4-dihydrqxyphenyl] -3,4-dihydro-1 [2H] - benzopyran-3 , 5, 7-triol; and (-) - epichatechin or [2S, 3S] -2- [3,4-dihydroxyphenyl] -3,4- dihydro-1 [2H] -benzopyran-3, 5, 7-triol.
Selon l'invention, chacun de ces composés peut être utilisé seu|. Mais l'invention concerne également l'utilisation d'un mélange en toute proportion de (+)-épichatéchine et de (-)- épichatéchine. Outre ces deux formes énantiomèriques, l'invention concerne aussi les analogues de l'épichatéchine et/ou ses dérivés à l'exception de l'épichatéchine-gallate.According to the invention, each of these compounds can be used alone. However, the invention also relates to the use of a mixture in any proportion of (+) - epichatechin and (-) - epichatechin. In addition to these two enantiomeric forms, the invention also relates to analogues of epichatechin and / or its derivatives with the exception of epichatechin-gallate.
Ainsi, par ailleurs dans le texte et pour simplifier, le terme épiçatéchine s'entend sauf indication contraire, comme signifiant la (+) épichatéchine ou la (-) épichatéchine ou un mélange en toute proportion de (+)-épichatéchine et de (-)-épichatéçhine, ainsi que les analogues de l'épichatéchine et/pu ses dérivés à l'exception de l'épichatéçhine-ga.Nate. La composition selon l'invention peut être destinée à une application topique sur la peau ou les cheveux. Dans ce cas, la DHEA et/ou ses analogues peuvent être présents en une quantité allant de 0,0001 à 10% en poids, et de préférence de 0,001 à 5% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Mieux, la DHEA et/ou ses analogues peuvent être présents en une quantité d'environ 1% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. L'inhibiteur de NO-synthase peut de son côté représenter de 0,001 à 1% du poids total de la composition.Thus, elsewhere in the text and for simplicity, the term epiçatechin is understood unless otherwise indicated, as meaning the (+) epichatechin or (-) epichatechin or a mixture in any proportion of (+) - epichatechin and (- ) -epichatechin, as well as analogues of epichatechin and / or its derivatives with the exception of epichatechin-ga.Nate. The composition according to the invention can be intended for topical application to the skin or the hair. In this case, DHEA and / or its analogs can be present in an amount ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, DHEA and / or its analogs may be present in an amount of about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The NO synthase inhibitor can, for its part, represent from 0.001 to 1% of the total weight of the composition.
La composition selon l'invention peut se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques normalement utilisées dans les domaines cosmétique et dermatologique, et elle peut être notamment sous forme d'une solution aqueuse éventuellement gélifiée, d'une dispersion du type lotion éventuellement biphasée, d'une émulsion obtenue par dispersion d'une phase grasse dans une phase aqueuse (H/E) ou inversement (E/H), ou d'une émulsion triple (E/H/E ou H/E/H) ou d'une dispersion vésiculaire de type ionique et/ou non ionique. Ces compositions sont préparées selon les méthodes usuelles.The composition according to the invention can be in all the galenical forms normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, and it can be in particular in the form of an aqueous solution possibly gelled, of a dispersion of the lotion type possibly biphasic, of an emulsion obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or a triple emulsion (W / O / W or O / W / O) or a vesicular dispersion of ionic and / or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
Cette composition peut être plus ou moins fluide et avoir l'aspect d'une crème blanche ou colorée, d'une pommade, d'un lait, d'une lotion, d'un sérum, d'une pâte, d'une mousse. Elle peut éventuellement être appliquée sur la peau sous forme d'aérosol. Elle peut également se présenter sous forme solide, en particulier sous forme de stick. Elle peut être utilisée comme produit de soin et/ou comme produit de maquillage pour la peau.This composition can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. . It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, in particular in the form of a stick. It can be used as a care product and / or as a make-up product for the skin.
En outre, dans la mesure où les inhibiteurs de NO-synthase sont déjà connus pour inhiber la chute des cheveux (FR 00/05524), la Demanderesse pense -sans vouloir être liée par cette théorie- qu'ils seraient susceptibles de renforcer l'effet bénéfique des compositions capillaires à base de DHEA ou analogues, dans lesquelles la DHEA est elle-même connue pour agir sur la canitie (FR 99/12773).In addition, since the NO-synthase inhibitors are already known to inhibit hair loss (FR 00/05524), the Applicant thinks - without wishing to be bound by this theory - that they would be capable of reinforcing the beneficial effect of hair compositions based on DHEA or the like, in which DHEA is itself known to act on canities (FR 99/12773).
Par suite, la composition selon l'invention peut en variante être une composition capillaire, se présentant notamment sous la forme de shampooing ou d'après-shampooing, par exemple.As a result, the composition according to the invention may alternatively be a hair composition, in particular in the form of shampoo or conditioner, for example.
De façon connue, la composition de l'invention peut contenir également les adjuvants habituels dans le domaine cosmétique, tels que les gélifiants hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les actifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les conservateurs, les antioxydants, les solvants, les parfums, les charges, les filtres, les pigments, les absorbeurs d'odeur et les matières colorantes. Les quantités de ces différents adjuvants sont celles classiquement utilisées dans le domaine considéré, et par exemple de 0,01 à 20% du poids total de la composition. Ces adjuvants, selon leur nature, peuvent être introduits dans la phase grasse, dans la phase aqueuse, dans les vésicules lipidiques et/ou dans les nanoparticules. En tout état de cause, ces adjuvants, ainsi que leurs proportions, seront choisis de manière à ne pas nuire aux propriétés recherchées de l'association d'actifs selon l'invention.In a known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain the adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, pigments, odor absorbers and coloring matters. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase, into the lipid vesicles and / or into the nanoparticles. In any event, these adjuvants, as well as their proportions, will be chosen so as not to harm the desired properties of the combination of active agents according to the invention.
Lorsque la composition de l'invention est une émulsion, la proportion de la phase grasse peut aller de 5 à 80 % en poids, et de préférence de 5 à 50 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les huiles, les émulsionnants et les coémulsionnants utilisés dans la composition sous forme d'émulsion sont choisis parmi ceux classiquement utilisés dans le domaine considéré. L'émulsionnant et le coémulsionnant sont présents, dans la composition, en une proportion allant de 0,3 à 30 % en poids, et de préférence de 0,5 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Comme huiles utilisables dans l'invention, on peut citer les huiles minérales (huile "de vaseline), les huiles d'origine végétale (huile d'avocat, huile de soja), les huiles d'origine animale (lanoline), les huiles de synthèse (perhydrosqualène), les huiles siliconées (cyclométhicone) et les huiles fluorées (perfluoropolyéthers). On peut aussi utiliser comme matières grasses des alcools gras (alcool cétylique), des acides gras, des cires (cire de camauba, ozokérite).As oils used in the invention include mineral oils ( "petrolatum), vegetable oils (avocado oil, soybean oil), animal oils (lanolin), oils synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene), silicone oils (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers), fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol), fatty acids, waxes (camauba wax, ozokerite) can also be used.
Comme émulsionnants et coémulsionnants utilisables dans l'invention, on peut citer par exemple les esters d'acide gras et de polyéthylène glycol tels que le stéarate de PEG-20, et les esters d'acide gras et de glycérine tels que le stéarate de glycéryle.As emulsifiers and coemulsifiers which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned, for example, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as PEG-20 stearate, and fatty acid and glycerin esters such as glyceryl stearate .
Comme gélifiants hydrophiles, on peut citer en particulier les polymères carboxyvinyliques (carbomer), les copolymères acryliques tels que les copolymères d'acrylates/alkylacrylates, les polyacrylamides, les polysaccharides, les gommes naturelles et les argiles, et, comme gélifiants lipophiles, on peut citer les argiles modifiées comme les bentones, les sels métalliques d'acides gras, la silice hydrophobe et les polyéthylènes. Comme actifs, on peut utiliser notamment les dépigmentants et les agents kératolytiques et/ou desquamants.As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomers), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, cite modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes. As active agents, depigmentants and keratolytic and / or scaling agents can be used in particular.
En cas d'incompatibilité, les actifs indiqués ci-dessus et/ou les analogues de DHEA selon l'invention peuvent être incorporés dans des sphérules, notamment des vésicules ioniques ou non-ioniques et/ou des nanoparticuies (nanocapsules et/ou nanosphères), de manière à les isoler les uns des autres dans la composition.In the event of incompatibility, the active agents indicated above and / or the analogs of DHEA according to the invention can be incorporated into spherules, in particular ionic or nonionic vesicles and / or nanoparticles (nanocapsules and / or nanospheres) , so as to isolate them from each other in the composition.
Selon une autre possibilité, la composition selon l'invention peut être destinée à une administration par voie orale.According to another possibility, the composition according to the invention can be intended for oral administration.
Dans ce cas, elle peut se présenter sous toute forme galénique convenant à ce mode d'administration, par exemple sous forme de comprimés sécables ou non, de granules, de capsules, de gélules, de solutés, de suspensions ou de solutions comprenant un excipient approprié.In this case, it can be in any dosage form suitable for this mode of administration, for example in the form of tablets which may or may not be broken, granules, capsules, capsules, solutes, suspensions or solutions comprising an excipient appropriate.
Les doses quotidiennes de DHEA ou analogues administrées par voie orale peuvent être comprises entre 1 et 100 mg/jour, de préférence entre 25 et 75 mg/jour. Preferentiellement, la DHEA ou analogue est présente dans la composition selon l'invention en une quantité permettant son administration à une dose comprise entre 50 et 100 mg/jour, ladite posologie étant réalisée en une ou plusieurs prises, avec une dose unitaire de 50 mg.The daily doses of DHEA or analogues administered orally can be between 1 and 100 mg / day, preferably between 25 and 75 mg / day. Preferably, DHEA or the like is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount allowing its administration at a dose of between 50 and 100 mg / day, said dosage being carried out in one or more doses, with a unit dose of 50 mg. .
Quel que soit son mode d'administration, la composition selon l'invention peut être utilisée pour prévenir et/ou traiter l'irritation de la peau et/ou les peaux sensibles et/ou les signes de vieillissement cutané.Whatever its mode of administration, the composition according to the invention can be used to prevent and / or treat irritation of the skin and / or sensitive skin and / or signs of skin aging.
On entend par "irritation de la peau", toute forme d'irritation résultant de l'application sur la peau de produits chimiques d'origine naturelle ou synthétique, par exemple utilisés en cosmétique ou dermatologie, et qui peut se traduire, notamment, par des rougeurs, des douleurs ou des picotements.The term “skin irritation” is intended to mean any form of irritation resulting from the application to the skin of chemicals of natural or synthetic origin, for example used in cosmetics or dermatology, and which can be expressed, in particular, by redness, pain or tingling.
L'expression "peaux sensibles" recouvre à la fois les peaux irritables et/ou réactives et les peaux intolérantes. Une peau irritable et/ou réactive est une peau qui réagit par un prurit, c'est-à-dire par des démangeaisons ou par des picotements, à différents facteurs tels que l'environnement, les émotions, les aliments, le vent, les frottements, le rasoir, le savon, les tensioactifs, l'eau dure à forte concentration de calcaire, les variations de température ou la laine. En général, ces signes sont associés à une peau sèche avec ou sans dartres ou à une peau qui présente un érythème.The expression "sensitive skin" covers both irritable and / or reactive skin and intolerant skin. Irritable and / or reactive skin is skin which reacts by pruritus, that is to say by itching or tingling, to various factors such as the environment, emotions, food, wind, friction, razor, soap, surfactants, hard water with a high concentration of limestone, temperature variations or wool. In general, these signs are associated with dry skin with or without sores or with skin that has an erythema.
Une peau intolérante est une peau qui réagit par des sensations d'échauffement, de tiraillements, de fourmillements et/ou de rougeurs, à différents facteurs tels que l'environnement, les émotions, les aliments et certains produits cosmétiques. En général, ces signes sont associés à une peau hyperséborrhéique ou acnéique avec ou sans dartres et à un érythème.Intolerant skin is skin that reacts with sensations of heating, tightness, tingling and / or redness, to various factors such as the environment, emotions, food and certain cosmetic products. In general, these signs are associated with hyperseborrheic or acne-prone skin with or without sores and erythema.
Enfin, par "signes de vieillissement cutané", on entend toute.s modifications de l'aspect extérieur de la peau dues au vieillissement qu'il soit chronobiologique et/ou photo-induit, comme par exemple les rides et ridules, la peau flétrie, la peau molle, la peau amincie, ou encore le manque d'élasticité et/ou de tonus de la peau.Finally, by "signs of skin aging" is meant any change in the external appearance of the skin due to aging, whether chronobiological and / or photo-induced, such as wrinkles and fine lines, withered skin. , flabby skin, thinned skin, or the lack of elasticity and / or tone of the skin.
La présente invention concerne donc également un procédé cosmétique de prévention et/ou de traitement de l'irritation de la peau et/ou des peaux sensibles et/ou des signes de vieillissement cutané, comprenant l'administration par voie topique ou orale d'une composition comprenant la DHEA et/ou un précurseur ou dérivé chimique ou biologique de celle-ci, en association avec au moins un inhibiteur de NO-synthase.The present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating irritation of the skin and / or sensitive skin and / or signs of skin aging, comprising the topical or oral administration of a composition comprising DHEA and / or a precursor or chemical or biological derivative thereof, in combination with at least one NO-synthase inhibitor.
En variante, la composition selon l'invention peut être utilisée pour le traitement des cheveux et/ou du cuir chevelu, en particulier pour prévenir et/ou traiter la canitie et/ou la chute des cheveux.Alternatively, the composition according to the invention can be used for the treatment of hair and / or scalp, in particular to prevent and / or treat canities and / or hair loss.
La présente invention concerne donc également un procédé cosmétique de traitement des cheveux et/ou du cuir chevelu comprenant l'administration par voie topique ou orale de la composition selon l'invention.The present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for treating hair and / or scalp comprising the topical or oral administration of the composition according to the invention.
Selon une autre possibilité encore, la composition selon l'invention peut être utilisée en tant que composition amincissante. La DHEA est en effet connue pour son effet inhibiteur de la différenciation des adipocytes, tandis que les inhibiteurs de NO-synthase ont déjà été décrits comme susceptibles d'agir comme stimulants de la lipolyse. L'association de ces deux types d'actifs permet donc de renforcer leurs effets en vue d'affiner de façon plus visible la silhouette.According to yet another possibility, the composition according to the invention can be used as a slimming composition. DHEA is indeed known for its inhibitory effect on differentiation of adipocytes, while inhibitors of NO synthase have already been described as capable of acting as stimulants of lipolysis. The combination of these two types of active ingredients therefore makes it possible to reinforce their effects with a view to refining the silhouette in a more visible manner.
L'invention sera mieux comprise, et ses avantages ressortiront mieux, à la lumière des exemples suivants, qui sont donnés à titre illustratif, et sans limitation. Dans ces exemples, les quantités sont indiquées en pourcentage pondéral.The invention will be better understood, and its advantages will emerge more clearly in the light of the following examples, which are given by way of illustration, and without limitation. In these examples, the quantities are indicated in percentage by weight.
EXEMPLESEXAMPLES
Exemple 1 - Composition pour administration oraleExample 1 Composition for Oral Administration
On prépare, de manière classique pour l'homme du métier, des capsules molles ayant la composition suivante :Soft capsules are prepared, conventionally for those skilled in the art, having the following composition:
Huile de soja hydrogénée 40 mgHydrogenated soybean oil 40 mg
Huile de blé 95 mgWheat oil 95 mg
Lécithine de soja 20 mg Tocophérols naturels 5 mgSoy lecithin 20 mg Natural Tocopherols 5 mg
Acide ascorbique 30 mgAscorbic acid 30 mg
Extrait sec de Vitis vinifera encapsulé (vendu par la société INDENA sous la dénomination commerciale "Phytosome de Leucoselect") 300 mgDry extract of encapsulated Vitis vinifera (sold by the company INDENA under the trade name "Phytosome de Leucoselect") 300 mg
(correspondant à environ 100 mg d'extrait de Vitis vinifera) DHEA 50 mg(corresponding to approximately 100 mg of Vitis vinifera extract) DHEA 50 mg
Exemple 2 -Composition pour application topiqueExample 2 -Composition for topical application
On prépare, de manière classique pour l'homme du métier, une crème de soin (émulsion huile dans eau) ayant la composition suivante :A treatment cream (oil-in-water emulsion) having the following composition is prepared, conventionally for a person skilled in the art:
Extrait aqueux sec de Ginkgo biloba vendu par la société Beaufour sous le nom commercial "Ginkgo biloba extrait standard" 5 % DHEA 0,1 %Dry aqueous extract of Ginkgo biloba sold by the company Beaufour under the trade name "Ginkgo biloba standard extract" 5% DHEA 0.1%
Stéarate de glycérol 2 %2% glycerol stearate
Polysorbate 60 (Tween 60 ® vendu par la société ICI) 1 %Polysorbate 60 (Tween 60 ® sold by the company ICI) 1%
Acide stearique 1,4 % Triethanolamine 0,7 %Stearic acid 1.4% Triethanolamine 0.7%
Carbomer 0,4 %Carbomer 0.4%
Fraction liquide de beurre de karité 12 %Liquid fraction of shea butter 12%
Perhydrosqualène 12 %Perhydrosqualene 12%
Parfum 0,5 % Conservateur QSPerfume 0.5% QS Preservative
Eau QSP 100 % 100% QSP water

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, la DHEA et/ou un précurseur ou dérivé chimique ou biologique de celle-ci, en association avec au moins un inhibiteur de NO-synthase.1. Composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, DHEA and / or a precursor or chemical or biological derivative thereof, in combination with at least one inhibitor of NO-synthase.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce que ledit précurseur biologique est choisi parmi : la Δ5-prégnénolone, la 17α-hydroxy prégnenolone et le sulfate de 17α- hydroxy prégnenolone.2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said biological precursor is chosen from: Δ5-pregnenolone, 17α-hydroxy pregnenolone and 17α-hydroxy pregnenolone sulfate.
3. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce que ledit précurseur chimique est choisi parmi les sapogénines, leurs dérivés, et les extraits naturels en contenant.3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said chemical precursor is chosen from sapogenins, their derivatives, and natural extracts containing them.
4. Composition selon la revendication 3, caractérisée en ce que ledit précurseur chimique est choisi parmi la diosgenine, l'hécogénine, l'acétate d'hécogénine, la smilagenine et la sarsapogénine.4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that said chemical precursor is chosen from diosgenin, hecogenin, hecogenin acetate, smilagenin and sarsapogenin.
5. Composition selorîla revendication 3, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait naturel est choisi parmi le fenugrec et les extraits de Dioscorées.5. Composition selorîla claim 3, characterized in that said natural extract is chosen from fenugreek and extracts of Dioscorea.
6. Composition selon la revendication 5, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait de Dioscorée est un extrait de racine d'igname sauvage.6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that said extract of Dioscorea is an extract of wild yam root.
7. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce que ledit dérivé biologique est choisi parmi : le Δ5-androstène-3,17-diol et la Δ4-androstène-3,17-dione.7. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said biological derivative is chosen from: Δ5-androstene-3,17-diol and Δ4-androstene-3,17-dione.
8. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce que ledit dérivé chimique est choisi parmi les sels et esters de DHEA.8. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said chemical derivative is chosen from salts and esters of DHEA.
9. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'inhibiteur de NO-synthase est choisi parmi : le lipochroman-6, un extrait de raisin, d'olivier ou de gingko biloba ou Pépiçatéchine. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the NO-synthase inhibitor is chosen from: lipochroman-6, an extract of grape, olive or gingko biloba or Pepicatechin.
10. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est destinée à une application topique sur la peau.10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is intended for topical application to the skin.
11. Composition selon la revendication 10, caractérisée en ce que la DHEA et/ou son précurseur ou dérivé sont présents en une quantité allant de 0,0001 à 10% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the DHEA and / or its precursor or derivative are present in an amount ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition selon la revendication 11, caractérisée en ce que la DHEA et/ou son précurseur ou dérivé sont présents en une quantité allant de 0,001 à 5% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the DHEA and / or its precursor or derivative are present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition selon la revendication 12, caractérisée en ce que la DHEA et/ou son précurseur ou dérivé sont présents en une quantité d'environ 1% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the DHEA and / or its precursor or derivative are present in an amount of approximately 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 10 à 13, caractérisée en ce que l'inhibiteur de NO-synthase représente de 0,001 à 1% du poids total de la composition.14. Composition according to any one of claims 10 to 13, characterized in that the NO-synthase inhibitor represents from 0.001 to 1% of the total weight of the composition.
, ,
15. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est destinée à une administration par voie orale.15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is intended for oral administration.
16. Procédé cosmétique de prévention et/ou de traitement de l'irritation de la peau et/ou des peaux sensibles et/ou des signes de vieillissement cutané, comprenant l'administration par voie topique ou orale d'une composition comprenant la DHEA et/ou un précurseur ou dérivé chimique ou biologique de celle-ci, en association avec au moins un inhibiteur de NO- synthase.16. Cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating irritation of the skin and / or sensitive skin and / or signs of skin aging, comprising the topical or oral administration of a composition comprising DHEA and / or a chemical or biological precursor or derivative thereof, in combination with at least one NO-synthase inhibitor.
17. Procédé selon la revendication 16, caractérisé en ce que la DHEA ou son précurseur ou dérivé est administré par voie orale à raison de 1 à 100 mg/jour, de préférence de 25 à 75 mg/jour.17. Method according to claim 16, characterized in that DHEA or its precursor or derivative is administered orally at a rate of 1 to 100 mg / day, preferably from 25 to 75 mg / day.
18. Procédé cosmétique de traitement des cheveux et/ou du cuir chevelu comprenant l'administration par voie topique ou orale de la composition selon l'une quelconque 1 à 15. 18. Cosmetic process for treating the hair and / or scalp comprising the topical or oral administration of the composition according to any one 1 to 15.
9. Utilisation cosmétique de la composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, en tant que composition amincissante. 9. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, as a slimming composition.
REVENDICATIONS MODIFIEESAMENDED CLAIMS
[reçues par le Bureau international le 3 décembre 2001 (03.12.01); revendications originales 1-19 remplacées par les revendications 1-17 modifiées (2 pages)][received by the International Bureau on December 3, 2001 (03.12.01); original claims 1-19 replaced by amended claims 1-17 (2 pages)]
1. Composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, une sapogenine ou un extrait naturel en contenant, en association avec au moins un inhibiteur de NO- synthase.1. Composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a sapogenin or a natural extract containing it, in association with at least one inhibitor of NO-synthase.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce que ladite sapogenine est choisie parmi la diosgenine, l'hécogénine, la smilagenine et la sarsapogénine.2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said sapogenin is chosen from diosgenin, hecogenin, smilagenin and sarsapogenin.
3. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait naturel est choisi parmi le fenugrec et les extraits de Dioscorées.3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said natural extract is chosen from fenugreek and Dioscorea extracts.
4. Composition selon la revendication 3, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait de Dioscorée est un extrait de racine d'igname sauvage.4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that said Dioscorea extract is an extract of wild yam root.
5. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'inhibiteur de NO-synthase est choisi parmi : le lipochroman-6, un extrait de raisin, d'olivier ou de gingko biloba ou l'épicatéchine.5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the NO-synthase inhibitor is chosen from: lipochroman-6, an extract of grape, olive or gingko biloba or epicatechin.
6. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est destinée à une application topique sur la peau.6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is intended for topical application to the skin.
7. Composition selon la revendication 6, caractérisée en ce que la sapogenine est présente en une quantité allant de 0,0001 à 10% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the sapogenin is present in an amount ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce que la sapogenine est présente en une quantité allant de 0,001 à 5% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the sapogenin is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition selon la revendication 8, caractérisée en ce que la sapogenine est présente en une quantité d'environ 1% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the sapogenin is present in an amount of approximately 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 9, caractérisée en ce que l'inhibiteur de NO-synthase représente de 0,001 à 1% du poids total de la composition. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that the NO-synthase inhibitor represents from 0.001 to 1% of the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est destinée à une administration par voie orale.11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is intended for oral administration.
12. Procédé cosmétique de prévention et/ou de traitement de l'irritation de la peau et/ou des peaux sensibles et/ou des signes de vieillissement cutané, comprenant l'administration par voie topique ou orale d'une composition comprenant la DHEA et/ou un précurseur ou dérivé chimique ou biologique de celle-ci, en association avec au moins un inhibiteur de NO- synthase.12. Cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating irritation of the skin and / or sensitive skin and / or signs of skin aging, comprising the topical or oral administration of a composition comprising DHEA and / or a chemical or biological precursor or derivative thereof, in combination with at least one NO-synthase inhibitor.
13. Procédé selon la revendication 12, caractérisé en ce que la DHEA ou son précurseur ou dérivé est administré par voie orale à raison de 1 à 100 mg/jour, de préférence de 25 à 75 mg/jour.13. Method according to claim 12, characterized in that DHEA or its precursor or derivative is administered orally at a rate of 1 to 100 mg / day, preferably from 25 to 75 mg / day.
14. Procédé cosmétique de traitement des cheveux et/ou du cuir chevelu comprenant l'administration par voie topique ou orale d'une composition comprenant la DHEA et/ou un précurseur ou dérivé chimique ou biologique de celle-ci, en association avec au moins un inhibiteur de NO-synthase..14. Cosmetic method for treating the hair and / or scalp comprising the topical or oral administration of a composition comprising DHEA and / or a precursor or chemical or biological derivative thereof, in combination with at least a NO-synthase inhibitor ..
15. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 12 à 14, caractérisé en ce que ledit dérivé chimique est choisi parmi les sels et esters de DHEA.15. Method according to any one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that said chemical derivative is chosen from salts and esters of DHEA.
16. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendication 12 à 14, caractérisé en ce que ledit précurseur chimique est choisi parmi les sapogénines, leurs dérivés, et les extraits naturels en contenant.16. Method according to any one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that said chemical precursor is chosen from sapogenins, their derivatives, and natural extracts containing them.
17. Utilisation cosmétique d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 11 en tant que composition amincissante. 17. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 as a slimming composition.
EP01945389A 2000-07-13 2001-06-08 Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising dhea and/or a precursor or derivative thereof, combined with at least a no-synthase inhibitor Withdrawn EP1303254A1 (en)

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FR0009231A FR2811567B1 (en) 2000-07-13 2000-07-13 COMPOSITION, ESPECIALLY COSMETIC, COMPRISING DHEA AND / OR A PRECURSOR OR DERIVATIVE THEREOF, IN ASSOCIATION WITH AT LEAST ONE NO-SYNTHASE INHIBITOR
FR0009231 2000-07-13
PCT/FR2001/001791 WO2002005778A1 (en) 2000-07-13 2001-06-08 Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising dhea and/or a precursor or derivative thereof, combined with at least a no-synthase inhibitor

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