EP1230914A1 - Topical anti-pollution composition - Google Patents

Topical anti-pollution composition Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1230914A1
EP1230914A1 EP02290093A EP02290093A EP1230914A1 EP 1230914 A1 EP1230914 A1 EP 1230914A1 EP 02290093 A EP02290093 A EP 02290093A EP 02290093 A EP02290093 A EP 02290093A EP 1230914 A1 EP1230914 A1 EP 1230914A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition
starch
silicone gum
pollution
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
EP02290093A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Emmanuelle Labrousse
José Cotovio
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LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP1230914A1 publication Critical patent/EP1230914A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present application relates to the use in topical application, of starch as an anti-pollution agent, and to a cosmetic treatment process with a view to protect the body against the effects of pollution, consisting of applying to the keratin material, a composition containing in a physiologically medium acceptable, an effective amount of starch.
  • the application also relates to an anti-pollution composition for topical application containing in a physiologically acceptable medium at at least one starch and at least one silicone gum, and its uses in the cosmetic and dermatological fields.
  • Urban areas are regularly subject to pollution peaks.
  • the individual in its daily environment and particularly in urban areas, can be subject to multiple attacks on keratinous matter, and especially of the skin, scalp and hair, by different pollutants air.
  • Air pollutants which are widely represented by primary and secondary products of combustion represent a source significant environmental oxidative stress. Different types of products chemicals, xenobiotics and particles make up urban pollution.
  • the broad categories of pollutants that can have deleterious effects on the skin and the hair are: gases, heavy metals, hydrocarbons polycyclic aromatics (PAHs) and the particulate elements which are combustion residues on which very many compounds are adsorbed organic and mineral.
  • PAHs hydrocarbons polycyclic aromatics
  • the skin is directly and frequently exposed to the pro-oxidant environment and is particularly sensitive to the action of oxidative stress; its outermost layer serves as a barrier against oxidative damage that may occur.
  • the oxidant is generally neutralized after reaction with the keratin materials, but the reaction products formed can be responsible for cellular and tissue damage.
  • the stratum corneum the skin barrier, is the contact site between air and skin tissue, and the biphasic lipid / protein structure is a crucial determinant of this skin barrier function.
  • toxic gases such as ozone, carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides or sulfur oxides, are major constituents of pollutants. These toxic gases have been found to promote the scaling of keratin materials, "tires" said keratin materials, that is to say the make them dirty and dull. Likewise, cellular asphyxia of the so-called keratin materials.
  • heavy metals are air pollutants whose emissions have increased significantly, especially in an urban or industrial environment. Although the majority of the effects of these metals are described in other tissues (lungs, kidneys, brain ...), it has been shown that certain metals can enter and accumulate in the skin (A.B.G. Landsdown. Critical Reviews in Toxicology, 1995, vol. 25, p.397-462). AT high concentrations, heavy metals can induce mechanisms oxidation of membrane lipids, a direct cytotoxicity capable of leading to cell necrosis, alkylation of cellular nucleophiles via mechanisms that could be the cause of awareness or carcinogenesis (S.J. Stochs and D. Bagchi, Free Radical Biology and Medicine.
  • heavy metals In addition to their own toxic effects, heavy metals have the property of reducing the activity of cellular defenses against free radicals [see for example R.S. Dwivedi, J. Toxicol. Cut. & Ocular Toxical. 6 (3), 183-191 (1987)]. Heavy metals therefore aggravate the toxic effects of gaseous pollutants by reducing the effectiveness of natural means of defense, and cause an acceleration of the phenomenon of cellular aging. This is true in particular for keratin materials and in particular the skin, leather scalp and hair which are in direct and permanent contact with the environment outside.
  • PAH aromatic hydrocarbons polycyclic
  • document EP-A-557 042 describes the use of metallothionein to protect fabrics from heavy metals.
  • the document EP-A-577 718 describes the use of sphingolipids to protect the skin and air pollution hair.
  • the Applicant has now found, quite surprisingly, that the use of one or more starches, made it possible to protect the materials keratin of the effects of pollutants and in particular of particulate pollutants, and that in addition, the association of a starch with a silicone gum allowed to increase the anti-pollution effect of starch.
  • starch in compositions for topical application. and in particular cosmetics, intended to be applied to the skin, for example as a filler (see for example EP-A-925 777 and EP-A-745 379).
  • cosmetics intended to be applied to the skin, for example as a filler (see for example EP-A-925 777 and EP-A-745 379).
  • the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of at least one starch, as anti-pollution cosmetic agent, in a composition for application topical on keratin materials.
  • the invention also relates to the use of at least one starch, for the preparation of a composition for topical application intended to protect the keratin materials against the harmful effects of pollution, in particular from particulate pollution, such as skin inflammation and allergy issues skin.
  • Anti-pollution agent means an agent which protects the skin and keratinous materials in order to prevent, mitigate and / or eliminate the effects deleterious pollutants (eg PAHs, heavy metals, etc.), especially those adsorbed on the particles.
  • deleterious pollutants eg PAHs, heavy metals, etc.
  • keratinous material means skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and mucous membranes.
  • Topical application here means an external application on the materials keratin, such as the skin, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and mucous membranes, and generally any skin tissue.
  • composition used according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable, that is to say compatible, medium with skin tissue such as the skin, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and mucous membranes.
  • a physiologically acceptable that is to say compatible, medium with skin tissue such as the skin, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and mucous membranes.
  • the composition can be applied over the entire human body.
  • the starch (s) used as anti-pollution compounds according to the invention are advantageously present in a sufficient amount.
  • Sufficient amount or effective amount
  • an amount such as protection against pollutants is ensured.
  • This quantity can range, for example, from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 7% by weight of active material of anti-pollution compound (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. This quantity varies according to the compound (s) used and the medium of composition.
  • Starch is a natural product well known to those skilled in the art. It consists of a polymer or a mixture of polymers, linear or branched, made up of ⁇ -D-glucopyranosyl units. Starch is described in particular in "KIRK-OTHMER ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY, 3 rd edition, volume 21, p.492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983".
  • the starches and its derivatives which can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units.
  • the number of these patterns and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer).
  • amylose linear polymer
  • amylopectin branched polymer
  • the relative proportions of amyloidosis and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary depending on the botanical origin of starches.
  • the starches used in the present invention may have as origin botanical cereals or tubers. So the starches are by example chosen from starches of corn, rice, cassava, apple earth, wheat, sorghum, peas, native (i.e. unmodified) or modified, and their mixtures.
  • modified starches mention may be made of precooked starches, hydrolyzed starches, crosslinked starches, for example with a derivative of methylolurea or by octenylsuccinic anhydride or by epichlorohydrin, esterified starches, etherified starches, oxidized starches, starches refined, grilled starches in the presence of acid, or even grafted starches, for example with sodium polyacrylates, coated starches, for example with amino acids, and / or mixtures thereof.
  • the starches are generally in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles of which example from 3 to 100 microns. This powder forms a gel when heated.
  • a mixture of these starches can be used.
  • the starch used is an unmodified starch and preferably corn starch.
  • silicone of non-crosslinked linear polydimethylsiloxanes which may be hydroxylated or phenylated and which have the consistency of a thick oil or a transparent solid as opposed to the alkyl- or alkoxy-dimethicones which, when solid, have an opaque waxy appearance, but may also have the appearance of a clear oil when their melting point is below room temperature.
  • the silicone gum used according to the invention can be chosen in particular from polydiorganosiloxanes with a molecular weight ranging from 100,000 to 2,000,000, and preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000. These silicone gums preferably have a viscosity equal to or greater than 200,000 cSt (0.2 m 2 / s) and preferably greater than 300,000 cSt (0.3 m 2 / s), viscosity measured with the BROOKFIELD viscometer at 25 ° C.
  • the preferred silicone gums of the invention are chosen from dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) and more particularly dimethiconols (hydroxyl-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes).
  • One or more silicone gums can be used, and the gum (s) silicone can be presented as is (100% active material) or in mixture with a solvent, in particular a solvent chosen from silicones volatile, polydimethylsiloxane oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils, isoparaffins, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane or their mixtures.
  • a solvent in particular a solvent chosen from silicones volatile, polydimethylsiloxane oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils, isoparaffins, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane or their mixtures.
  • Silicone gums are generally sold by suppliers mixed with a low weight linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxane molecular, volatile or non-volatile, in a proportion of 5 to 20% by weight of active ingredient, and preferably 10 to 15% by weight of active ingredient per relative to the total weight of the mixture.
  • silicone gums examples include 96% dimethicone in cyclomethicone, sold by RHONE POULENC under the name of Mirasil DM-500000®; dimethicone sold by the company WACKER under the name AK 300000®, and mixed dimethiconols with a dimethicone or a cyclomethicone, sold under the names of Q2-1403®, Q2-1401®, Q2-1503® and DC2-9085® by the company DOW CORNING.
  • the invention also relates to a composition for topical application containing in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one unmodified starch chosen from starches of corn, rice, cassava, potato, wheat, sorghum and peas, and at least one silicone gum.
  • the amount of starch preferably ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight (of active ingredient), better from 0.1 to 10% by weight and more better from 0.5 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the amount of silicone gum preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight (from active ingredient), better from 0.05 to 5% by weight and even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions for topical application, and in particular cosmetic applications, used according to the invention contain a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • This middle physiologically acceptable can more particularly consist of water and optionally a physiologically acceptable organic solvent chosen by example among lower alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxides; the polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol. It can also be an anhydrous medium, in particular a medium oily containing oils and / or fats other than oils.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is an aqueous medium
  • it has a pH compatible with the skin, preferably ranging from 3 to 8 and better still from 4 to 7.
  • compositions of the invention are softer and more nourishing.
  • compositions according to the invention containing the anti-pollution agents such as defined above can occur in all dosage forms conventionally used for a topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions of oil-in-water emulsions (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O), gels aqueous or oily, anhydrous liquid, pasty or solid products, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules can be polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or ionic lipid vesicles and / or nonionic.
  • These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
  • compositions used according to the invention can be more or less fluids and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, ointment, milk, lotion, serum, paste, foam. They can be optionally applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick.
  • composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase
  • this preferably contains at least one oil. It can also contain other fatty substances.
  • Hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean, in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol.
  • the other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are by example fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as acid stearic, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes like the lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candellila wax, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers like products marketed under the names "KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29” or "EPSX” by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil” by the company Grant Industries.
  • fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms such as acid stearic, lauric acid, palmi
  • fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to to prepare a composition having the properties, for example of consistency or of texture, desired.
  • the composition containing the anti-pollution compounds is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water emulsion (O / W), and more particularly an O / W emulsion.
  • W / O water-in-oil
  • O / W oil-in-water emulsion
  • the proportion of the phase oily emulsion can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Oils, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers used in the composition in the form emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field cosmetic or dermatological.
  • the emulsifier and co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30 % by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the emulsion may, in addition, contain lipid vesicles.
  • the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers used alone or as a mixture. Emulsifiers are selected appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).
  • dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C” by the company Dow Corning
  • alkyl dimethicone copolyols for example, may be mentioned as emulsifiers.
  • Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid” by the company Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 R by the company Goldschmidt.
  • emulsifiers of the non-ionic emulsifiers such as fatty acid and glycerol esters oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); fatty acid esters and oxyalkylenated sorbitan; esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); ethers of oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and their mixtures such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and pEG-40 stearate marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by the company Uniqema.
  • non-ionic emulsifiers such as fatty acid and glycerol esters oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); fatty acid esters and oxyalkylenated sorb
  • the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field or dermatological, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, active ingredients hydrophilic or lipophilic, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, coloring matter, salts.
  • adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field or dermatological such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, active ingredients hydrophilic or lipophilic, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, coloring matter, salts.
  • the quantities of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
  • These adjuvants depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules.
  • fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention may for example include, in addition to pigments, silica powder; talc; the polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those in copolymer ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate sold by the company Dow Corning under the name of POLYTRAP; expanded powders such that hollow microspheres and in particular, microspheres sold under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; microbeads silicone resin such as those sold under the name TOSPEARL by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These charges may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • hydrophilic gelling agents mention may, for example, be made of polymers carboxyvinyls such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich, the copolymers acrylics such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives and in particular hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums and clays.
  • CTFA name: carbomer carboxyvinyls
  • the copolymers acrylics such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives and in particular hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums and clays.
  • lipophilic gelling agents mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes.
  • the composition used according to the invention contains at least one UV filter (or sun filter) which can be a filter chemical or a physical filter or a mixture of such filters.
  • Octyl is preferably used as a filter in the composition of the invention methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX from Hoffmann-Laroche), acid terephthalylidene sulfonic di-camphor (MEXORYL SX from Chimex), benzophenone-3 (Uvinul M40 from BASF), phenylbenzimidazole acid sulfonic (Eusolex 232 from Merck) and their mixtures.
  • methoxycinnamate Parsol MCX from Hoffmann-Laroche
  • MEXORYL SX acid terephthalylidene sulfonic di-camphor
  • benzophenone-3 Uvinul M40 from BASF
  • phenylbenzimidazole acid sulfonic Eusolex 232 from Merck
  • the quantity of filters depends on the desired end use. She can go by example from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight and better still 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions used according to the invention can in particular constitute a care and / or make-up product for keratin materials, and in particular for skin. They can be used in particular to protect the organism, by particularly keratin materials, against the effects of pollution, in particular to improve cellular respiration and / or reduce flaking and / or avoid tarnishing or dirtying keratin materials, especially the skin.
  • Another object of the invention therefore consists of a treatment method cosmetic in order to protect a keratinous material (skin, hair or others) against the effects of pollution, consisting in applying to keratinous matter a composition containing an effective amount of at least one starch.
  • the subject of the invention is also a method of cosmetic treatment of a material keratin to improve cellular respiration and / or decrease scaling and / or to avoid tarnishing and / or soiling, consisting in applying on keratinous matter, a composition containing in a medium physiologically acceptable, an effective amount of at least one starch.
  • Phase A Apricot oil 3% Silicone oil 5% Shea oil 3% Pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate 3% Glyceryl stearate / PEG-40 stearate (Arlacel 165) 3% Stearyl alcohol 1% Filters (Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3) 9.5% Phase B Starch 0.5% 12% MA silicone gum (DC2-9085) (i.e.
  • phase C hydroxyethyl 0.1% Carbomer (carbopol) 0.6% Water phase
  • phase D Conservative qs Glycerin 5% Water qs 100%
  • Phase E Triethanolamine (neutralizer) qs pH 6 Procedure: the oily and aqueous phases are prepared separately at 70 ° C. and the oily phase is poured into the aqueous phase with stirring. Stirred for 10 minutes to make the emulsion, then add phase C then phase B and finally phase E to neutralize the Carbopol.
  • a cream is obtained which can be applied to the skin to protect it against the effects of pollution and in particular to limit the adhesion of particles polluting on the skin.
  • Oily phase (phase A) Apricot oil 1% Silicone oil 5% Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G from Henkel) 1% Filters (Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3) 9.5% Phase B Starch 0.5% 12% MA silicone gum (DC2-9085) (i.e. 0.024% dimethiconol and 0.176% dimethicone) 0.2% Gelling agents (Phase C) hydroxyethyl 0.1% Carbomer (carbopol) 0.7% Water phase (phase D) Conservative qs Glycerin 5% Water qs 100% Phase E Triethanolamine (neutralizer) qs pH 6 Procedure: the oily and aqueous phases are prepared separately at 70 ° C. and the oily phase is poured into the aqueous phase with stirring. Agitation is carried out for 10 minutes to make the emulsion, then phase C, phase B and finally phase E are added to neutralize the Carbopol.
  • a cream is obtained which can be applied to the skin to protect it against the effects of pollution and in particular to limit the adhesion of particles polluting on the skin.
  • Phase A Apricot oil 1% Silicone oil 5% Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G from Henkel) 1% Filters (Parsol MCX, Mexoryl SX and Eusolex 232) 9.5% Phase B Starch 0.5% 12% MA silicone gum (DC2-9085) (i.e.
  • Phase C hydroxyethyl 0.1% Carbomer (carbopol) 0.7% Water phase
  • Phase D Conservative qs Glycerin 5% Water qs 100%
  • Phase E Triethanolamine (neutralizer) qs pH 6 Procedure: the oily and aqueous phases are prepared separately at 70 ° C. and the oily phase is poured into the aqueous phase with stirring. Agitation is carried out for 10 minutes to make the emulsion, then phase C, phase B and finally phase E are added to neutralize the Carbopol.
  • a cream is obtained which can be applied to the skin to protect it against the effects of pollution and in particular to limit the adhesion of particles polluting on the skin.
  • Oily phase (Phase A) Apricot oil 1% Silicone oil 5% Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G from Henkel) 1% Filters (Parsol MCX, Mexoryl SX and Eusolex 232) 9.5% Phase B Starch 0.5% Gelling agents (phase C) hydroxyethyl 0.1% Carbomer (carbopol) 0.7% Water phase (phase D) Conservative qs Glycerin 5% Water qs 100% Phase E Triethanolamine (neutralizer) qs pH 6 Procedure: the oily and aqueous phases are prepared separately at 70 ° C. and the oily phase is poured into the aqueous phase with stirring. Stirred for 10 minutes to make the emulsion, then add phase C, then phase B and finally phase E to neutralize the Carbopol.
  • a cream is obtained which can be applied to the skin to protect it against the effects of pollution and in particular to limit the adhesion of particles polluting on the skin.
  • compositions described above were tested containing either 2% starch (example 4) or 0.5% starch and 0.2% gum silicone (examples 1 to 3). Placebos are the same compositions without starch or silicone gum.
  • Biological material Reconstructed human epidermis sold by the company EPISKIN® (LYON, France) with its maintenance and test media (Kit).
  • Compressed air is used in the test to remove loose particles (adsorbed) on the surface of the skin, the aim being to mimic air turbulence to which the skin and particles are subjected in reality.
  • Test 2 mg / cm 2 of sebum was deposited on the reconstructed human epidermis with a curved spatula. Then, it was allowed to air dry (without cover) under the laminar flow hood for two hours.
  • sebum makes it possible to obtain skin which is closer to real human skin, for example the skin of the face on which there is sebum in vivo .
  • compositions to be tested were placed on the epidermis of reconstructed skin with a curved spatula at the rate of 2 mg / cm 2 . They were allowed to air dry (without cover) under the laminar flow hood for 30 minutes. Then, 1.5 mg of diesel particles were deposited there (under a safety post) which were distributed on the surface of the epidermis. The excess particles were removed by inverting the nacelle and dried 10 min in the open air (without cover), then quantified by image analysis the Diesel particles having adhered, that is to say say the initial surface soiled.
  • % particles removed (initial soiled area - remaining soiled area) soiled initial surface x 100

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Abstract

The use of one or more starches as a cosmetic anti-pollution agent in compositions for topical application to keratinic matter to protect against the harmful effects of pollution. Independent claims are included for: (1) a composition for topical application containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, one or more of non-modified maize, rice, manioc, potato, wheat, sorghum or pea starch and at least one silicone gum; and (2) a method of treating keratinic matter to improve cellular respiration and/or reduce desquamation and/or to avoid staining and soiling by applying the composition.

Description

La présente demande se rapporte à l'utilisation en application topique, d'amidon comme agent anti-pollution, et à un procédé de traitement cosmétique en vue de protéger l'organisme contre les effets de la pollution, consistant à appliquer sur la matière kératinique, une composition contenant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, une quantité efficace d'amidon.The present application relates to the use in topical application, of starch as an anti-pollution agent, and to a cosmetic treatment process with a view to protect the body against the effects of pollution, consisting of applying to the keratin material, a composition containing in a physiologically medium acceptable, an effective amount of starch.

La demande se rapporte également à une composition anti-pollution pour application topique contenant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable au moins un amidon et au moins une gomme de silicone, et à ses utilisations dans les domaines cosmétique et dermatologique.The application also relates to an anti-pollution composition for topical application containing in a physiologically acceptable medium at at least one starch and at least one silicone gum, and its uses in the cosmetic and dermatological fields.

Les milieux urbains sont régulièrement soumis à des pics de pollution. L'individu dans son environnement quotidien et particulièrement en zone urbaine, peut être soumis à de multiples agressions au niveau des matières kératiniques, et notamment de la peau, du cuir chevelu et des cheveux, par différents polluants aériens. Les polluants atmosphériques qui sont représentés largement par les produits primaires et secondaires de la combustion représentent une source importante du stress oxydatif environnemental. Différents types de produits chimiques, xénobiotiques et particules, composent la pollution urbaine. Les grandes catégories de polluants pouvant exercer des effets délétères sur la peau et le cheveu sont les suivants : les gaz, les métaux lourds, les hydrocarbures aromatiques polycycliques (HAP) et les éléments particulaires qui sont des résidus de combustion sur lesquelles sont adsorbés de très nombreux composés organiques et minéraux.Urban areas are regularly subject to pollution peaks. The individual in its daily environment and particularly in urban areas, can be subject to multiple attacks on keratinous matter, and especially of the skin, scalp and hair, by different pollutants air. Air pollutants which are widely represented by primary and secondary products of combustion represent a source significant environmental oxidative stress. Different types of products chemicals, xenobiotics and particles make up urban pollution. The broad categories of pollutants that can have deleterious effects on the skin and the hair are: gases, heavy metals, hydrocarbons polycyclic aromatics (PAHs) and the particulate elements which are combustion residues on which very many compounds are adsorbed organic and mineral.

Ce sont les tissus les plus externes qui sont initialement et directement exposés aux toxiques de l'environnement. La peau est directement et fréquemment exposée à l'environnement pro-oxydant et elle est particulièrement sensible à l'action du stress oxydatif ; sa couche la plus externe sert de barrière vis-à-vis des dommages oxydatifs pouvant se produire. Dans la plupart des circonstances, l'oxydant est généralement neutralisé après réaction avec les matières kératiniques, mais les produits de réaction formés peuvent être responsables d'atteintes cellulaires et tissulaires. Le stratum corneum, la barrière de la peau, est le site de contact entre air et tissu cutané, et la structure biphasique lipides/protéines est un déterminant crucial de cette fonction de barrière de la peau. Ces éléments peuvent réagir avec les oxydants et être altérés, ce qui favorisera les phénomènes de desquamation.It is the outermost tissues that are initially and directly exposed to environmental toxins. The skin is directly and frequently exposed to the pro-oxidant environment and is particularly sensitive to the action of oxidative stress; its outermost layer serves as a barrier against oxidative damage that may occur. In most circumstances, the oxidant is generally neutralized after reaction with the keratin materials, but the reaction products formed can be responsible for cellular and tissue damage. The stratum corneum , the skin barrier, is the contact site between air and skin tissue, and the biphasic lipid / protein structure is a crucial determinant of this skin barrier function. These elements can react with oxidants and be altered, which will promote scaling phenomena.

Parmi les polluants pouvant exercer des effets délétères sur les matières kératiniques, les gaz toxiques tels que l'ozone, le monoxyde de carbone, les oxydes d'azote ou les oxydes de soufre, sont des constituants majeurs des polluants. Il a été constaté que ces gaz toxiques favorisent la desquamation des matières kératiniques, "fatigue" lesdites matières kératiniques, c'est-à-dire les rendent sales et ternes. De même, il a été constaté une asphyxie cellulaire des dites matières kératiniques.Among the pollutants that can have deleterious effects on materials keratin, toxic gases such as ozone, carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides or sulfur oxides, are major constituents of pollutants. These toxic gases have been found to promote the scaling of keratin materials, "tires" said keratin materials, that is to say the make them dirty and dull. Likewise, cellular asphyxia of the so-called keratin materials.

On sait par ailleurs que les métaux lourds (plomb, cadmium, mercure) sont des polluants atmosphériques dont les émissions ont notablement augmenté, notamment en milieu urbain ou industriel. Bien que la majorité des effets de ces métaux sont décrits dans d'autres tissus (poumons, reins, cerveau...), il a été montré que certains métaux peuvent pénétrer dans la peau et s'y accumuler (A.B.G. Landsdown. Critical Reviews in Toxicology, 1995, vol. 25, p.397-462). A fortes concentrations, les métaux lourds peuvent induire des mécanismes d'oxydation des lipides membranaires, une cytotoxicité directe capable d'aboutir à une nécrose cellulaire, une alkylation des nucléophiles cellulaires via des mécanismes pouvant être à l'origine de phénomènes de sensibilisation ou de cancérogénèse (S.J. Stochs and D. Bagchi, Free Radical Biology and Medicine.1995, vol. 18, p. 321-336 ; M. E. Figueiredo-Pereira et al., The Journal of Biological Chemistry, 1998, vol. 21, p. 12703-12709.; N. L. Acan et coll., 1995, Biochemical and Molecular Medicine, vol. 54, p. 33-37).We also know that heavy metals (lead, cadmium, mercury) are air pollutants whose emissions have increased significantly, especially in an urban or industrial environment. Although the majority of the effects of these metals are described in other tissues (lungs, kidneys, brain ...), it has been shown that certain metals can enter and accumulate in the skin (A.B.G. Landsdown. Critical Reviews in Toxicology, 1995, vol. 25, p.397-462). AT high concentrations, heavy metals can induce mechanisms oxidation of membrane lipids, a direct cytotoxicity capable of leading to cell necrosis, alkylation of cellular nucleophiles via mechanisms that could be the cause of awareness or carcinogenesis (S.J. Stochs and D. Bagchi, Free Radical Biology and Medicine. 1995, vol. 18, p. 321-336; M. E. Figueiredo-Pereira et al., The Journal of Biological Chemistry, 1998, vol. 21, p. 12703-12709 .; N. L. Acan et al., 1995, Biochemical and Molecular Medicine, vol. 54, p. 33-37).

Outre certains effets toxiques qui leur sont propres, les métaux lourds ont la propriété de diminuer l'activité des moyens de défense cellulaire contre les radicaux libres [voir par exemple R.S. Dwivedi, J. Toxicol. Cut. & Ocular Toxical. 6(3), 183-191 (1987)]. Ainsi, les métaux lourds aggravent les effets toxiques des polluants gazeux en diminuant l'efficacité des moyens naturels de défense, et provoquent une accélération du phénomène de vieillissement cellulaire. Ceci est vrai en particulier pour les matières kératiniques et notamment la peau, le cuir chevelu et les cheveux qui sont en contact direct et permanent avec le milieu extérieur.In addition to their own toxic effects, heavy metals have the property of reducing the activity of cellular defenses against free radicals [see for example R.S. Dwivedi, J. Toxicol. Cut. & Ocular Toxical. 6 (3), 183-191 (1987)]. Heavy metals therefore aggravate the toxic effects of gaseous pollutants by reducing the effectiveness of natural means of defense, and cause an acceleration of the phenomenon of cellular aging. this is true in particular for keratin materials and in particular the skin, leather scalp and hair which are in direct and permanent contact with the environment outside.

Une autre catégorie majeure de polluants est constituée par des résidus de combustion sous forme de particules sur lesquelles sont adsorbés de très nombreux composés organiques, et en particulier des hydrocarbures aromatiques polycycliques (HAP). Ces HAP adsorbés à la surface des particules et des poussières véhiculées par l'air urbain, peuvent pénétrer le tissu cutané et y être stockés et /ou biotransformés. Leur métabolisme hépatique, bien décrit dans la littérature, conduit à des formations de métabolites monohydroxylés (voie de détoxification), d'époxydes et de diols époxydes (voie toxifiante). On peut observer des phénomènes similaires au niveau cutané. Ces composés sont connus pour avoir des effets carcinogènes et immunogènes au niveau cutané.Another major category of pollutants is waste combustion in the form of particles on which very adsorbed numerous organic compounds, and in particular aromatic hydrocarbons polycyclic (PAH). These PAHs adsorbed on the surface of particles and dust carried by urban air, can penetrate the skin tissue and be there stored and / or biotransformed. Their hepatic metabolism, well described in the literature, leads to the formation of monohydroxylated metabolites (pathway detoxification), epoxides and epoxy diols (toxic pathway). We can see similar phenomena in the skin. These compounds are known for have carcinogenic and immunogenic effects on the skin.

Ainsi, les effets nocifs de la pollution sur les matières kératiniques affectent la respiration cellulaire de ces matières kératiniques et se traduisent par un vieillissement accéléré de la peau, avec un teint terne et la formation précoce de rides ou ridules, et aussi par une diminution de la vigueur des cheveux qui prennent aussi un aspect terne. En outre, du fait de la pollution, peau et cheveux se salissent plus rapidement. De plus, la pollution peut provoquer des irritations et des phénomènes d'allergie et d'inflammation sur la peau.Thus, the harmful effects of pollution on keratinous materials affect the cellular respiration of these keratin materials and result in a accelerated aging of the skin, with a dull complexion and the early formation of wrinkles or fine lines, and also by a decrease in the vigor of the hair which also take on a dull appearance. In addition, due to pollution, skin and hair get dirty faster. In addition, pollution can cause irritation and allergy and inflammation on the skin.

Pour lutter contre ces effets des polluants, divers agents anti-pollution ont été décrits. Ainsi le document EP-A-557 042 décrit l'utilisation des métallothionéines pour protéger les tissus contre les métaux lourds. Par ailleurs, le document EP-A-577 718 décrit l'utilisation des sphingolipides pour protéger la peau et les cheveux de la pollution atmosphérique.To combat these effects of pollutants, various anti-pollution agents have been described. Thus document EP-A-557 042 describes the use of metallothionein to protect fabrics from heavy metals. Furthermore, the document EP-A-577 718 describes the use of sphingolipids to protect the skin and air pollution hair.

Avec l'augmentation de la pollution, il subsiste le besoin de trouver d'autres agents permettant de lutter efficacement contre l'effet néfaste des polluants sur les matières kératiniques et empêcher l'adhérence de ces polluants sur les matières kératiniques, notamment pour éviter la dégradation de la respiration cellulaire, la desquamation et le vieillissement accéléré des matières kératiniques et notamment de la peau, ainsi que lutter contre le teint terne et la formation précoce de rides ou ridules sur la peau, pour éviter que les cheveux aient un aspect terne et se salissent, et pour éviter l'irritation de la peau ainsi que les phénomènes d'allergie cutanée et d'inflammation de la peau.With the increase in pollution, there remains the need to find other agents making it possible to fight effectively against the harmful effect of pollutants on keratin materials and prevent adhesion of these pollutants to the keratin materials, in particular to avoid degradation of respiration cellular, scaling and accelerated aging of keratinous matter especially the skin, as well as fighting dull complexion and the formation early wrinkles or fine lines on the skin, to prevent hair from having a dull appearance and get dirty, and to avoid skin irritation as well as skin allergy and inflammation of the skin.

La demanderesse a maintenant trouvé, de façon tout à fait surprenante, que l'utilisation d'un ou plusieurs amidons, permettait de protéger les matières kératiniques des effets des polluants et notamment des polluants particulaires, et qu'en outre, l'association d'un amidon avec une gomme de silicone permettait d'augmenter l'effet anti-pollution de l'amidon.The Applicant has now found, quite surprisingly, that the use of one or more starches, made it possible to protect the materials keratin of the effects of pollutants and in particular of particulate pollutants, and that in addition, the association of a starch with a silicone gum allowed to increase the anti-pollution effect of starch.

Certes, il est connu d'utiliser l'amidon dans des compositions à application topique et notamment cosmétiques, destinées à être appliquées sur la peau, par exemple comme charge (voir par exemple EP-A-925 777 et EP-A-745 379). Toutefois, aucun document ne décrit que ces composés puissent avoir des propriétés de protection des matières kératiniques contre la pollution.Admittedly, it is known to use starch in compositions for topical application. and in particular cosmetics, intended to be applied to the skin, for example as a filler (see for example EP-A-925 777 and EP-A-745 379). However, no document describes that these compounds can have properties of protection of keratin materials against pollution.

Ainsi, l'invention a pour objet l'utilisation cosmétique d'au moins un amidon, comme agent cosmétique anti-pollution, dans une composition pour application topique sur les matières kératiniques.Thus, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of at least one starch, as anti-pollution cosmetic agent, in a composition for application topical on keratin materials.

L'invention a aussi pour objet l'utilisation d'au moins un amidon, pour la préparation d'une composition à application topique destinée à protéger les matières kératiniques contre les effets nocifs de la pollution, notamment de la pollution particulaire, tels que l'inflammation de la peau et les problèmes d'allergie cutanée.The invention also relates to the use of at least one starch, for the preparation of a composition for topical application intended to protect the keratin materials against the harmful effects of pollution, in particular from particulate pollution, such as skin inflammation and allergy issues skin.

On entend par « agent anti-pollution » un agent qui protège la peau et les matières kératiniques de façon à prévenir, atténuer et/ou supprimer les effets délétères d'agents polluants (ex. HAP, métaux lourds, etc...) notamment ceux adsorbés sur les particules.“Anti-pollution agent” means an agent which protects the skin and keratinous materials in order to prevent, mitigate and / or eliminate the effects deleterious pollutants (eg PAHs, heavy metals, etc.), especially those adsorbed on the particles.

Dans le cadre de la présente invention, on entend par « matière kératinique » la peau, le cuir chevelu, les cheveux, les cils, les sourcils, les ongles et les muqueuses.In the context of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" means skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and mucous membranes.

On entend ici par « application topique » une application externe sur les matières kératiniques, que sont notamment la peau, le cuir chevelu, les cils, les sourcils, les ongles et les muqueuses, et de manière générale tout tissu cutané.“Topical application” here means an external application on the materials keratin, such as the skin, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and mucous membranes, and generally any skin tissue.

La composition utilisée selon l'invention est destinée à une application topique et contient donc un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire compatible avec les tissus cutanés tels que la peau, le cuir chevelu, les cils, les sourcils, les ongles et les muqueuses. Ainsi, la composition peut être appliquée sur tout le corps humain.The composition used according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable, that is to say compatible, medium with skin tissue such as the skin, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and mucous membranes. Thus, the composition can be applied over the entire human body.

Le ou les amidons utilisés comme composés anti-pollution selon l'invention sont avantageusement présents en une quantité suffisante. On entend ici par « quantité suffisante » (ou quantité efficace), une quantité telle que la protection contre les polluants soit assurée. Cette quantité peut aller par exemple de 0,05 à 15 % en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 10 % en poids et mieux de 0,5 à 7 % en poids de matière active de composé(s) anti-pollution par rapport au poids total de la composition. Cette quantité varie selon le ou les composés utilisés et le milieu de la composition.The starch (s) used as anti-pollution compounds according to the invention are advantageously present in a sufficient amount. Here we mean by "Sufficient amount" (or effective amount), an amount such as protection against pollutants is ensured. This quantity can range, for example, from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 7% by weight of active material of anti-pollution compound (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. This quantity varies according to the compound (s) used and the medium of composition.

L'amidon est un produit naturel bien connu de l'homme du métier. Il consiste en un polymère ou un mélange de polymères, linéaires ou branchés, constitués d'unités d'α-D-glucopyranosyle. L'amidon est décrit en particulier dans "KIRK-OTHMER ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY, 3ème édition, volume 21, p.492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983".Starch is a natural product well known to those skilled in the art. It consists of a polymer or a mixture of polymers, linear or branched, made up of α-D-glucopyranosyl units. Starch is described in particular in "KIRK-OTHMER ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY, 3 rd edition, volume 21, p.492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983".

Les amidons et ses dérivés utilisables dans la présente invention sont plus particulièrement des macromolécules sous forme de polymères constitués de motifs élémentaires qui sont des unités anhydroglucose. Le nombre de ces motifs et leur assemblage permettent de distinguer l'amylose (polymère linéaire) et l'amylopectine (polymère ramifié). Les proportions relatives d'amylose et d'amylopectine, ainsi que leur degré de polymérisation, varient en fonction de l'origine botanique des amidons.The starches and its derivatives which can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these patterns and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amyloidosis and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary depending on the botanical origin of starches.

Les amidons utilisés dans la présente invention peuvent avoir comme origine botanique les céréales ou encore les tubercules. Ainsi, les amidons sont par exemple choisis parmi les amidons de maïs, de riz, de manioc, de pomme de terre, de blé, de sorgho, de pois, natifs (c'est-à-dire non modifiés) ou modifiés, et leurs mélanges. Parmi les amidons modifiés, on peut citer les amidons précuits, les amidons hydrolysés, les amidons réticulés, par exemple par un dérivé de méthylolurée ou par l'anhydride octénylsuccinique ou encore par l'épichlorhydrine, les amidons estérifiés, les amidons éthérifiés, les amidons oxydés, les amidons raffinés, les amidons grillés en présence d'acide, ou encore les amidons greffés, par exemple par des polyacrylates de sodium, les amidons enrobés, par exemple par des aminoacides, et/ou leurs mélanges.The starches used in the present invention may have as origin botanical cereals or tubers. So the starches are by example chosen from starches of corn, rice, cassava, apple earth, wheat, sorghum, peas, native (i.e. unmodified) or modified, and their mixtures. Among the modified starches, mention may be made of precooked starches, hydrolyzed starches, crosslinked starches, for example with a derivative of methylolurea or by octenylsuccinic anhydride or by epichlorohydrin, esterified starches, etherified starches, oxidized starches, starches refined, grilled starches in the presence of acid, or even grafted starches, for example with sodium polyacrylates, coated starches, for example with amino acids, and / or mixtures thereof.

Les amidons se présentent généralement sous la forme d'une poudre blanche, insoluble dans l'eau froide, dont la taille des particules élémentaires va par exemple de 3 à 100 microns. Cette poudre forme un gel lorsqu'elle est chauffée.The starches are generally in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles of which example from 3 to 100 microns. This powder forms a gel when heated.

Parmi les amidons et dérivés convenant particulièrement à l'invention, on peut citer :

  • l'amidon de maïs (amidon non modifié) tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination « Amidon de mais B » par la société ROQUETTE FRERES et le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination « Amidon de mais » par la société NATIONAL STARCH ;
  • l'amidon modifié (amylopectine/amylose réticulée par épichlorhydrine) vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « Amidon de riz insoluble non mucilagineux » par la société REMY,
  • l'amidon de maïs cireux (amylopectine essentiellement) natif, vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « WAXY MAIS » par la société BLATTMANN,
  • l'amidon de blé modifié et précuit, vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « MIDSOL KRISP » par la société MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS,
  • l'amidon de blé modifié et raffiné, vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « MIDSOL ADHERE » par la société MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS,
  • la poudre d'amidon de blé modifiée, vendue sous la dénomination commerciale « MIDSOL 35 » par la société MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS,
  • l'amidon de pomme de terre modifié, vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « PERFECTAGEL MPT » par la société AVEBE.
Among the starches and derivatives which are particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of:
  • corn starch (unmodified starch) such as the product sold under the name "Corn starch B" by the company ROQUETTE FRERES and the product sold under the name "Corn starch" by the company NATIONAL STARCH;
  • modified starch (amylopectin / amylose crosslinked by epichlorohydrin) sold under the trade name "Insoluble non-mucilaginous rice starch" by the company REMY,
  • native waxy corn starch (mainly amylopectin), sold under the trade name "WAXY BUT" by the company BLATTMANN,
  • modified and precooked wheat starch, sold under the trade name "MIDSOL KRISP" by the company MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS,
  • modified and refined wheat starch, sold under the trade name "MIDSOL ADHERE" by the company MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS,
  • modified wheat starch powder, sold under the trade name "MIDSOL 35" by the company MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS,
  • modified potato starch, sold under the trade name "PERFECTAGEL MPT" by the company AVEBE.

On peut utiliser un mélange de ces amidons.A mixture of these starches can be used.

Dans une forme particulièrement avantageuse de l'invention, l'amidon utilisé est un amidon non modifié et de préférence l'amidon de maïs.In a particularly advantageous form of the invention, the starch used is an unmodified starch and preferably corn starch.

On peut de manière avantageuse ajouter à l'amidon ou aux amidons utilisés selon l'invention, une ou plusieurs gommes de silicone.It is advantageous to add to the starch or starches used according to the invention, one or more silicone gums.

Dans le cadre de la présente invention, on désigne sous le terme "gomme de silicone" des polydiméthylsiloxanes linéaires non réticulés qui peuvent être hydroxylés ou phénylés et qui ont la consistance d'une huile épaisse ou d'un solide transparent par opposition avec les alkyl- ou alkoxy-diméthicones qui, lorsqu'ils sont solides, présentent un aspect opaque cireux, mais peuvent également avoir l'aspect d'une huile limpide lorsque leur point de fusion est inférieur à la température ambiante.In the context of the present invention, the term “gum of silicone "of non-crosslinked linear polydimethylsiloxanes which may be hydroxylated or phenylated and which have the consistency of a thick oil or a transparent solid as opposed to the alkyl- or alkoxy-dimethicones which, when solid, have an opaque waxy appearance, but may also have the appearance of a clear oil when their melting point is below room temperature.

La gomme de silicone utilisée selon l'invention peut être choisie notamment parmi des polydiorganosiloxanes de masse moléculaire allant de 100 000 à 2 000 000, et préférentiellement de 100 000 à 1 500 000. Ces gommes de silicone présentent préférentiellement une viscosité égale ou supérieure à 200.000 cSt (0,2 m2/s) et préférentiellement supérieure à 300.000 cSt (0,3 m2/s), viscosité mesurée au viscosimètre BROOKFIELD à 25°C.The silicone gum used according to the invention can be chosen in particular from polydiorganosiloxanes with a molecular weight ranging from 100,000 to 2,000,000, and preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000. These silicone gums preferably have a viscosity equal to or greater than 200,000 cSt (0.2 m 2 / s) and preferably greater than 300,000 cSt (0.3 m 2 / s), viscosity measured with the BROOKFIELD viscometer at 25 ° C.

On utilise plus particulièrement la gomme de silicone choisie parmi les composés de formule (I) suivante :

Figure 00050001
dans laquelle :

  • R1 représente -CH3, -OH, -C6H5 ou -OSi(CH3)3,
  • R2 représente -CH3, -OH ou -C6H5,
  • x = 0 ou un nombre entier et
  • y est un nombre entier,
  • y ou x + y étant des nombres entiers tels que la masse moléculaire moyenne en poids soit supérieure à 100 000, et de préférence aille de 100 000 à 1 500 000.
    • Use is more particularly made of silicone gum chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below:
    Figure 00050001
    in which :
  • R1 represents -CH 3 , -OH, -C 6 H 5 or -OSi (CH 3 ) 3 ,
  • R2 represents -CH 3 , -OH or -C 6 H 5 ,
  • x = 0 or an integer and
  • there is an integer,
  • y or x + y being whole numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass is greater than 100,000, and preferably ranges from 100,000 to 1,500,000.

    • Les gommes de silicone préférées de l'invention sont choisies parmi les diméthicones (polydiméthylsiloxanes) et plus particulièrement les diméthiconols (polydiméthylsiloxanes à terminaison hydroxyle).The preferred silicone gums of the invention are chosen from dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) and more particularly dimethiconols (hydroxyl-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes).

    On peut utiliser une ou plusieurs gommes de silicone, et, la ou les gommes de silicone peuvent se présenter telles quelles (à 100 % de matière active) ou en mélange avec un solvant, notamment un solvant choisi parmi les silicones volatiles, les huiles polydiméthylsiloxanes, les huiles polyphénylméthylsiloxanes, les isoparaffines, le chlorure de méthylène, le pentane, le dodécane, le tridécane, le tétradécane ou leurs mélanges.One or more silicone gums can be used, and the gum (s) silicone can be presented as is (100% active material) or in mixture with a solvent, in particular a solvent chosen from silicones volatile, polydimethylsiloxane oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils, isoparaffins, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane or their mixtures.

    Les gommes de silicone sont généralement commercialisées par les fournisseurs en mélange avec un polydiméthylsiloxane linéaire ou cyclique, de faible poids moléculaire, volatil ou non volatil, dans une proportion de 5 à 20 % en poids de matière active, et de préférence de 10 à 15 % en poids de matière active par rapport au poids total du mélange.Silicone gums are generally sold by suppliers mixed with a low weight linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxane molecular, volatile or non-volatile, in a proportion of 5 to 20% by weight of active ingredient, and preferably 10 to 15% by weight of active ingredient per relative to the total weight of the mixture.

    Comme gommes de silicone, on peut citer à titre d'exemple, la diméthicone à 96% dans du cyclométhicone, vendue par la Société RHONE POULENC sous la dénomination de Mirasil DM-500000® ; la diméthicone vendue par la société WACKER sous la dénomination AK 300000®, et les diméthiconols en mélange avec un diméthicone ou une cyclométhicone, vendus sous les dénominations de Q2-1403®, Q2-1401®, Q2-1503® et DC2-9085® par la Société DOW CORNING.Examples of silicone gums that may be mentioned include 96% dimethicone in cyclomethicone, sold by RHONE POULENC under the name of Mirasil DM-500000®; dimethicone sold by the company WACKER under the name AK 300000®, and mixed dimethiconols with a dimethicone or a cyclomethicone, sold under the names of Q2-1403®, Q2-1401®, Q2-1503® and DC2-9085® by the company DOW CORNING.

    L'invention se rapporte aussi à une composition à application topique contenant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un amidon non modifié choisi parmi les amidons de maïs, de riz, de manioc, de pomme de terre, de blé, de sorgho et de pois, et au moins une gomme de silicone.The invention also relates to a composition for topical application containing in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one unmodified starch chosen from starches of corn, rice, cassava, potato, wheat, sorghum and peas, and at least one silicone gum.

    Dans la composition selon l'invention, la quantité d'amidon va de préférence de 0,05 à 15 % en poids (de matière active), mieux de 0,1 à 10 % en poids et encore mieux de 0,5 à 7 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, et la quantité de gomme de silicone va de préférence de 0,01 à 10 % en poids (de matière active), mieux de 0,05 à 5 % en poids et encore mieux de 0,1 à 3 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.In the composition according to the invention, the amount of starch preferably ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight (of active ingredient), better from 0.1 to 10% by weight and more better from 0.5 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of silicone gum preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight (from active ingredient), better from 0.05 to 5% by weight and even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

    Les compositions à application topique, et notamment cosmétiques, utilisées selon l'invention contiennent un milieu physiologiquement acceptable. Ce milieu physiologiquement acceptable peut être plus particulièrement constitué d'eau et éventuellement d'un solvant organique physiologiquement acceptable choisi par exemple parmi les alcools inférieurs comportant de 1 à 8 atomes de carbone et en particulier 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, comme l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, le propanol, le butanol ; les polyéthylène glycols ayant de 6 à 80 oxydes d'éthylène ; les polyols comme le propylène glycol, l'isoprène glycol, le butylène glycol, la glycérine, le sorbitol. Ce peut être aussi un milieu anhydre, notamment un milieu huileux contenant des huiles et/ou matières grasses autres que les huiles.The compositions for topical application, and in particular cosmetic applications, used according to the invention contain a physiologically acceptable medium. This middle physiologically acceptable can more particularly consist of water and optionally a physiologically acceptable organic solvent chosen by example among lower alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxides; the polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol. It can also be an anhydrous medium, in particular a medium oily containing oils and / or fats other than oils.

    Quand le milieu physiologiquement acceptable est un milieu aqueux, il a un pH compatible avec la peau, allant de préférence de 3 à 8 et mieux de 4 à 7. When the physiologically acceptable medium is an aqueous medium, it has a pH compatible with the skin, preferably ranging from 3 to 8 and better still from 4 to 7.

    Quand la composition comporte un milieu aqueux ou hydroalcoolique, il est possible d'ajouter une phase grasse (ou huileuse) dans ce milieu, afin que les compositions de l'invention soient plus douces et plus nourrissantes.When the composition comprises an aqueous or hydroalcoholic medium, it is possible to add an oily (or oily) phase in this medium, so that the compositions of the invention are softer and more nourishing.

    Ainsi, les compositions selon l'invention contenant les agents anti-pollution tels que définis ci-dessus peuvent se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques classiquement utilisées pour une application topique et notamment sous forme de solutions aqueuses, hydroalcooliques ou huileuses, d'émulsions huile-dans-eau (H/E) ou eau-dans-huile (E/H) ou multiple (triple : E/H/E ou H/E/H), de gels aqueux ou huileux, de produits anhydres liquides, pâteux ou solides, ou de dispersions d'une phase grasse dans une phase aqueuse à l'aide de sphérules, ces sphérules pouvant être des nanoparticules polymériques telles que les nanosphères et les nanocapsules, ou des vésicules lipidiques de type ionique et/ou non ionique. Ces compositions sont préparées selon les méthodes usuelles.Thus, the compositions according to the invention containing the anti-pollution agents such as defined above can occur in all dosage forms conventionally used for a topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions of oil-in-water emulsions (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O), gels aqueous or oily, anhydrous liquid, pasty or solid products, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules can be polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or ionic lipid vesicles and / or nonionic. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

    En outre, les compositions utilisées selon l'invention peuvent être plus ou moins fluides et avoir l'aspect d'une crème blanche ou colorée, d'une pommade, d'un lait, d'une lotion, d'un sérum, d'une pâte, d'une mousse. Elles peuvent être éventuellement appliquées sur la peau sous forme d'aérosol. Elles peuvent aussi se présenter sous forme solide, et par exemple sous forme de stick.In addition, the compositions used according to the invention can be more or less fluids and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, ointment, milk, lotion, serum, paste, foam. They can be optionally applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick.

    Quand la composition utilisée selon l'invention comporte une phase huileuse, celle-ci contient de préférence au moins une huile. Elle peut contenir en outre d'autres corps gras.When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, this preferably contains at least one oil. It can also contain other fatty substances.

    Comme huiles utilisables dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer par exemple :

    • les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine animale, telles que le perhydrosqualène ;
    • les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale, telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras comportant de 4 à 10 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque ou encore, par exemple les huiles de tournesol, de maïs, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de noisette, d'abricot, de macadamia, d'arara, de tournesol, de ricin, d'avocat, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stearineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations Miglyol 810, 812 et 818 par la société Dynamit Nobel, l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de beurre de karité;
    • les esters et les éthers de synthèse, notamment d'acides gras, comme les huiles de formules R1COOR2 et R1OR2 dans laquelle R1 représente le reste d'un acide gras comportant de 8 à 29 atomes de carbone, et R2 représente une chaíne hydrocarbonée, ramifiée ou non, contenant de 3 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyl-2-hexyle, le stéarate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'érucate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle ; les esters hydroxylés comme l'isostéaryl lactate, l'octylhydroxystéarate, l'hydroxystéarate d'octyldodécyle, le diisostéaryl-malate, le citrate de triisocétyle, les heptanoates, octanoates, décanoates d'alcools gras ; les esters de polyol, comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, le diheptanoate de néopentylglycol et le diisononanoate de diéthylèneglycol ; et les esters du pentaérythritol comme le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrityle et le tétraoctanoate de pentaérythrityle ;
    • les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, et leurs dérivés, la vaseline, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que l'huile de parléam ;
    • les alcools gras ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, comme l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique et leur mélange (alcool cétylstéarylique), l'octyldodécanol, le 2-butyloctanol, le 2-hexyldécanol, le 2-undécylpentadécanol, l'alcool oléique ou l'alcool linoléique ;
    • les huiles fluorées partiellement hydrocarbonées et/ou siliconées comme celles décrites dans le document JP-A-2-295912 ;
    • les huiles de silicone comme les polyméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatiles ou non à chaíne siliconée linéaire ou cyclique, liquides ou pâteux à température ambiante, notamment les cyclopolydiméthylsiloxanes (cyclométhicones) telles que la cyclohexasiloxane ; les polydiméthylsiloxanes comportant des groupements alkyle, alcoxy ou phényle, pendant ou en bout de chaíne siliconée, groupements ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone ; les silicones phénylées comme les phényltriméthicones, les phényldiméthicones, les phényltriméthylsiloxydiphényl-siloxanes, les diphényl-diméthicones, les diphénylméthyldiphényl trisiloxanes, les 2-phényléthyltriméthyl-siloxysilicates, et les polyméthylphénylsiloxanes ;
    • leurs mélanges.
    As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned for example:
    • hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
    • hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, macaw, sunflower, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides like those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
    • synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the remainder of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2- palmitate hexyl, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate;
    • linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parlameam oil;
    • fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, l oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;
    • partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;
    • silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or not with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenyls;
    • their mixtures.

    On entend par « huile hydrocarbonée » dans la liste des huiles citées ci-dessus, toute huile comportant majoritairement des atomes de carbone et d'hydrogène, et éventuellement des groupements ester, éther, fluoré, acide carboxylique et/ou alcool.“Hydrocarbon oil” is understood to mean, in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol.

    Les autres corps gras pouvant être présents dans la phase huileuse sont par exemple les acides gras comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme l'acide stéarique, l'acide laurique, l'acide palmitique et l'acide oléique ; les cires comme la lanoline, la cire d'abeille, la cire de Carnauba ou de Candellila, les cires de paraffine, de lignite ou les cires microcristallines, la cérésine ou l'ozokérite, les cires synthétiques comme les cires de polyéthylène, les cires de Fischer-Tropsch ; les résines de silicone telles que la trifluorométhyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone et la trifluoropropyldimethicone ; et les élastomères de silicone comme les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations « KSG » par la société Shin-Etsu, sous les dénominations « Trefil », « BY29 » ou « EPSX » par la société Dow Corning ou sous les dénominations « Gransil » par la société Grant Industries.The other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are by example fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as acid stearic, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes like the lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candellila wax, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers like products marketed under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries.

    Ces corps gras peuvent être choisis de manière variée par l'homme du métier afin de préparer une composition ayant les propriétés, par exemple de consistance ou de texture, souhaitées.These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to to prepare a composition having the properties, for example of consistency or of texture, desired.

    Selon un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, la composition contenant les composés anti-pollution est une émulsion eau-dans-huile (E/H) ou huile-dans-eau (H/E), et plus particulièrement une émulsion H/E. La proportion de la phase huileuse de l'émulsion peut aller de 5 à 80 % en poids, et de préférence de 5 à 50 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les huiles, les émulsionnants et les co-émulsionnants utilisés dans la composition sous forme d'émulsion sont choisis parmi ceux classiquement utilisés dans le domaine cosmétique ou dermatologique. L'émulsionnant et le co-émulsionnant sont généralement présents dans la composition, en une proportion allant de 0,3 à 30 % en poids, et de préférence de 0,5 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. L'émulsion peut, en outre, contenir des vésicules lipidiques.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition containing the anti-pollution compounds is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water emulsion (O / W), and more particularly an O / W emulsion. The proportion of the phase oily emulsion can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers used in the composition in the form emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field cosmetic or dermatological. The emulsifier and co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30 % by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may, in addition, contain lipid vesicles.

    Les émulsions contiennent généralement au moins un émulsionnant choisi parmi les émulsionnants amphotères, anioniques, cationiques ou non ioniques, utilisés seuls ou en mélange. Les émulsionnants sont choisis de manière appropriée suivant l'émulsion à obtenir (E/H ou H/E).The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers used alone or as a mixture. Emulsifiers are selected appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

    Pour les émulsions E/H, on peut citer par exemple comme émulsionnants les dimethicone copolyols tels que le mélange de cyclomethicone et de dimethicone copolyol, vendu sous la dénomination « DC 5225 C » par la société Dow Corning, et les alkyl-dimethicone copolyols tels que le Laurylmethicone copolyol vendu sous la dénomination "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" par la société Dow Corning et le Cetyl dimethicone copolyol vendu sous la dénomination Abil EM 90R par la société Goldschmidt. On peut aussi utiliser comme tensioactif d'émulsions E/H, un organopolysiloxane solide élastomère réticulé comportant au moins un groupement oxyalkyléné, tel que ceux obtenus selon le mode opératoire des exemples 3, 4 et 8 du document US-A-5,412,004 et des exemples du document US-A-5,811,487, notamment le produit de l'exemple 3 (exemple de synthèse) du brevet US-A-5,412,004. et tel que celui commercialisé sous la référence KSG 21 par la société Shin Etsu.For W / O emulsions, dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, for example, may be mentioned as emulsifiers. that Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 R by the company Goldschmidt. One can also use as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a solid crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of examples 3, 4 and 8 of document US-A-5,412,004 and examples. of document US-A-5,811,487, in particular the product of example 3 (synthetic example) of patent US-A-5,412,004. and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by the company Shin Etsu.

    Pour les émulsions H/E, on peut citer par exemple comme émulsionnants, les émulsionnants non ioniques tels que les esters d'acides gras et de glycérol oxyalkylénés (plus particulièrement polyoxyéthylénés) ; les esters d'acides gras et de sorbitan oxyalkylénés ; les esters d'acides gras oxyalkylénés (oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés) ; les éthers d'alcools gras oxyalkylénés (oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés) ; les esters de sucres comme le stéarate de sucrose ; et leurs mélanges tels que le mélange de stéarate de glycéryle et de stéarate de pEG-40 commercialisé sous la dénomination ARLACEL 165 par la société Uniqema.For O / W emulsions, mention may, for example, be made, as emulsifiers, of the non-ionic emulsifiers such as fatty acid and glycerol esters oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); fatty acid esters and oxyalkylenated sorbitan; esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); ethers of oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and their mixtures such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and pEG-40 stearate marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by the company Uniqema.

    De façon connue, la composition cosmétique ou dermatologique de l'invention peut contenir également des adjuvants habituels dans le domaine cosmétique ou dermatologique, tels que les gélifiants hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les actifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les conservateurs, les antioxydants, les solvants, les parfums, les charges, les filtres, les bactéricides, les absorbeurs d'odeur, les matières colorantes, les sels. Les quantités de ces différents adjuvants sont celles classiquement utilisées dans le domaine considéré, et par exemple de 0,01 à 20 % du poids total de la composition. Ces adjuvants, selon leur nature, peuvent être introduits dans la phase grasse, dans la phase aqueuse et/ou dans les sphérules lipidiques.In a known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field or dermatological, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, active ingredients hydrophilic or lipophilic, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, coloring matter, salts. The quantities of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules.

    Comme charges qui peuvent être utilisées dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer par exemple, outre les pigments, la poudre de silice ; le talc ; les particules de polyamide et notamment celles vendues sous la dénomination ORGASOL par la société Atochem ; les poudres de polyéthylène ; les microsphères à base de copolymères acryliques, telles que celles en copolymère diméthacrylate d'éthylène glycol/ methacrylate de lauryle vendues par la société Dow Corning sous la dénomination de POLYTRAP ; les poudres expansées telles que les microsphères creuses et notamment, les microsphères commercialisées sous la dénomination EXPANCEL par la société Kemanord Plast ou sous la dénomination MICROPEARL F 80 ED par la société Matsumoto ; les microbilles de résine de silicone telles que celles commercialisées sous la dénomination TOSPEARL par la société Toshiba Silicone ; et leurs mélanges. Ces charges peuvent être présentes dans des quantités allant de 0 à 20 % en poids et de préférence de 1 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, may for example include, in addition to pigments, silica powder; talc; the polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those in copolymer ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate sold by the company Dow Corning under the name of POLYTRAP; expanded powders such that hollow microspheres and in particular, microspheres sold under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; microbeads silicone resin such as those sold under the name TOSPEARL by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These charges may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

    Comme gélifiants hydrophiles, on peut citer par exemple les polymères carboxyvinyliques comme les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations Carbopol (nom CTFA :carbomer) par la société Goodrich, les copolymères acryliques tels que les copolymères d'acrylates/alkylacrylates, les polyacrylamides, les polysaccharides tels que les dérivés de cellulose et notamment l'hydroxyéthylcellulose, les gommes naturelles et les argiles. Comme gélifiants lipophiles, on peut citer les argiles modifiées comme les bentones, les sels métalliques d'acides gras, la silice hydrophobe et les polyéthylènes.As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may, for example, be made of polymers carboxyvinyls such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich, the copolymers acrylics such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives and in particular hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums and clays. As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes.

    Selon un mode préféré de réalisation de l'invention, la composition utilisée selon l'invention contient au moins un filtre U.V. (ou filtre solaire) qui peut être un filtre chimique ou un filtre physique ou un mélange de tels filtres.According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used according to the invention contains at least one UV filter (or sun filter) which can be a filter chemical or a physical filter or a mixture of such filters.

    Des exemples de filtres U.V. convenant particulièrement bien à une utilisation dans la présente invention sont :

    • le butylméthoxydibenzoylméthane vendu notamment par la société Hoffmann-Laroche sous la dénomination Parsol 1789,
    • l'octocrylène vendu notamment par la société BASF sous la dénomination Uvinul N539,
    • l'octylsalicylate vendu notament par la société Haarman-Reimer sous la dénomination Neo Heliopan OS,
    • l'octylméthoxycinnamate vendu notamment par la société Hoffmann-Laroche sous la dénomination Parsol MCX,
    • l'acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique vendu notamment par la société Merck sous la dénomination Eusolex 232,
    • les oxybenzones telles que les benzophénones-3, -4 ou -5,
    • les silicones benzotriazoles et en particulier le drométrizole trisiloxane,
    • l'acide téréphtalylidène di-camphre sulfonique, et
    • les oxydes de titane ou de zinc, sous forme de micro- ou nanoparticules (nanopigments) éventuellement enrobées.
    Examples of UV filters which are particularly suitable for use in the present invention are:
    • butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular by the company Hoffmann-Laroche under the name Parsol 1789,
    • octocrylene sold in particular by BASF under the name Uvinul N539,
    • the octylsalicylate sold in particular by the company Haarman-Reimer under the name Neo Heliopan OS,
    • octylmethoxycinnamate sold in particular by the company Hoffmann-Laroche under the name Parsol MCX,
    • phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Eusolex 232,
    • oxybenzones such as benzophenones-3, -4 or -5,
    • benzotriazole silicones and in particular drometrizole trisiloxane,
    • terephthalylidene di-camphor sulfonic acid, and
    • titanium or zinc oxides, in the form of micro- or nanoparticles (nanopigments) possibly coated.

    On utilise de préférence comme filtre dans la composition de l'invention l'octyl méthoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX de la société Hoffmann-Laroche), l'acide téréphtalylidène di-camphre sulfonique (MEXORYL SX de la société Chimex), le benzophénone-3 (Uvinul M40 de la société BASF), l'acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique (Eusolex 232 de la société Merck) et leurs mélanges.Octyl is preferably used as a filter in the composition of the invention methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX from Hoffmann-Laroche), acid terephthalylidene sulfonic di-camphor (MEXORYL SX from Chimex), benzophenone-3 (Uvinul M40 from BASF), phenylbenzimidazole acid sulfonic (Eusolex 232 from Merck) and their mixtures.

    La quantité de filtres dépend de l'utilisation finale souhaitée. Elle peut aller par exemple de 0,5 à 20 % en poids, de préférence de 2 à 15 % en poids et mieux de 2 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.The quantity of filters depends on the desired end use. She can go by example from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight and better still 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

    Les compositions utilisées selon l'invention peuvent notamment constituer un produit de soin et/ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques, et notamment de la peau. Elles peuvent être utilisées notamment pour protéger l'organisme, en particulier les matières kératiniques, contre les effets de la pollution, notamment pour améliorer la respiration cellulaire et/ou diminuer la desquamation et/ou pour éviter de ternir ou de salir les matières kératiniques, et notamment la peau.The compositions used according to the invention can in particular constitute a care and / or make-up product for keratin materials, and in particular for skin. They can be used in particular to protect the organism, by particularly keratin materials, against the effects of pollution, in particular to improve cellular respiration and / or reduce flaking and / or avoid tarnishing or dirtying keratin materials, especially the skin.

    Ainsi, un autre objet de l'invention consiste en un procédé de traitement cosmétique en vue de protéger une matière kératinique (peau, cheveux ou autres) contre les effets de la pollution, consistant à appliquer sur la matière kératinique une composition contenant une quantité efficace d'au moins un amidon.Another object of the invention therefore consists of a treatment method cosmetic in order to protect a keratinous material (skin, hair or others) against the effects of pollution, consisting in applying to keratinous matter a composition containing an effective amount of at least one starch.

    L'invention a aussi pour objet un procédé de traitement cosmétique d'une matière kératinique en vue d'améliorer sa respiration cellulaire et/ou de diminuer sa desquamation et/ou pour éviter de la ternir et/ou de la salir, consistant à appliquer sur la matière kératinique, une composition contenant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, une quantité efficace d'au moins un amidon.The subject of the invention is also a method of cosmetic treatment of a material keratin to improve cellular respiration and / or decrease scaling and / or to avoid tarnishing and / or soiling, consisting in applying on keratinous matter, a composition containing in a medium physiologically acceptable, an effective amount of at least one starch.

    Les exemples qui suivent servent à illustrer l'invention sans toutefois présenter un caractère limitatif. Les noms sont, selon le cas, en noms chimiques ou noms CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) et les quantités en pourcentage en poids sauf mention contraire.The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, presenting a limiting character. Names are, as appropriate, chemical names or names CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) and the quantities in percent by weight unless otherwise stated.

    I. Exemples de compositionI. Examples of composition Exemple 1 : Emulsion H/EExample 1: O / W emulsion

    Phase huileuse (phase A) Huile d'abricot 3 % Huile de silicone 5 % Huile de karité 3 % Tétraoctanoate de pentaerythrityle 3 % Stéarate de glycéryl/stéarate de PEG-40 (Arlacel 165) 3 % Alcool stéarylique 1 % Filtres (Parsol MCX et Benzophénone-3) 9,5 % Phase B Amidon 0,5 % Gomme de silicone à 12 % de M.A. (DC2-9085) (soit 0,024 % de diméthiconol et 0,176 % de diméthicone) 0,2 % Gélifiants (phase C) Hydroxyéthylcellulose 0,1 % Carbomer (carbopol) 0,6 % Phase aqueuse (phase D) Conservateur qs Glycérine 5 % Eau qsp 100 % Phase E Triéthanolamine (neutralisant) qs pH 6 Mode opératoire : on prépare séparément les phases huileuse et aqueuse à 70°C et on verse la phase huileuse dans la phase aqueuse sous agitation. On agite pendant 10 minutes pour faire l'émulsion, puis on ajoute la phase C puis la phase B et enfin la phase E pour neutraliser le Carbopol. Oily phase (phase A) Apricot oil 3% Silicone oil 5% Shea oil 3% Pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate 3% Glyceryl stearate / PEG-40 stearate (Arlacel 165) 3% Stearyl alcohol 1% Filters (Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3) 9.5% Phase B Starch 0.5% 12% MA silicone gum (DC2-9085) (i.e. 0.024% dimethiconol and 0.176% dimethicone) 0.2% Gelling agents (phase C) hydroxyethyl 0.1% Carbomer (carbopol) 0.6% Water phase (phase D) Conservative qs Glycerin 5% Water qs 100% Phase E Triethanolamine (neutralizer) qs pH 6 Procedure: the oily and aqueous phases are prepared separately at 70 ° C. and the oily phase is poured into the aqueous phase with stirring. Stirred for 10 minutes to make the emulsion, then add phase C then phase B and finally phase E to neutralize the Carbopol.

    On obtient une crème apte à être appliquée sur la peau pour la protéger contre les effets de la pollution et notamment pour limiter l'adhérence des particules polluantes sur la peau.A cream is obtained which can be applied to the skin to protect it against the effects of pollution and in particular to limit the adhesion of particles polluting on the skin.

    Exemple 2 : Emulsion H/EExample 2: O / W emulsion

    Phase huileuse (phase A) Huile d'abricot 1 % Huile de silicone 5 % Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G de la société Henkel) 1 % Filtres (Parsol MCX et Benzophénone-3) 9,5 % Phase B Amidon 0,5 % Gomme de silicone à 12 % de M.A. (DC2-9085) (soit 0,024 % de diméthiconol et 0,176 % de diméthicone) 0,2 % Gélifiants (Phase C) Hydroxyéthylcellulose 0,1 % Carbomer (carbopol) 0,7 % Phase aqueuse (phase D) Conservateur qs Glycérine 5 % Eau qsp 100 % Phase E Triéthanolamine (neutralisant) qs pH 6 Mode opératoire : on prépare séparément les phases huileuse et aqueuse à 70°C et on verse la phase huileuse dans la phase aqueuse sous agitation. On agite pendant 10 minutes pour faire l'émulsion, puis on ajoute la phase C, la phase B et enfin la phase E pour neutraliser le Carbopol. Oily phase (phase A) Apricot oil 1% Silicone oil 5% Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G from Henkel) 1% Filters (Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3) 9.5% Phase B Starch 0.5% 12% MA silicone gum (DC2-9085) (i.e. 0.024% dimethiconol and 0.176% dimethicone) 0.2% Gelling agents (Phase C) hydroxyethyl 0.1% Carbomer (carbopol) 0.7% Water phase (phase D) Conservative qs Glycerin 5% Water qs 100% Phase E Triethanolamine (neutralizer) qs pH 6 Procedure: the oily and aqueous phases are prepared separately at 70 ° C. and the oily phase is poured into the aqueous phase with stirring. Agitation is carried out for 10 minutes to make the emulsion, then phase C, phase B and finally phase E are added to neutralize the Carbopol.

    On obtient une crème apte à être appliquée sur la peau pour la protéger contre les effets de la pollution et notamment pour limiter l'adhérence des particules polluantes sur la peau.A cream is obtained which can be applied to the skin to protect it against the effects of pollution and in particular to limit the adhesion of particles polluting on the skin.

    Exemple 3 : Emulsion H/EExample 3: O / W emulsion

    Phase huileuse (phase A) Huile d'abricot 1 % Huile de silicone 5 % Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G de la société Henkel) 1 % Filtres (Parsol MCX, Mexoryl SX et Eusolex 232) 9,5 % Phase B Amidon 0,5 % Gomme de silicone à 12 % de M.A. (DC2-9085) (soit 0,024 % de diméthiconol et 0,176 % de diméthicone) 0,2 % Gélifiants (Phase C) Hydroxyéthylcellulose 0,1 % Carbomer (carbopol) 0,7 % Phase aqueuse (phase D) Conservateur qs Glycérine 5 % Eau qsp 100 % Phase E Triéthanolamine (neutralisant) qs pH 6 Mode opératoire : on prépare séparément les phases huileuse et aqueuse à 70°C et on verse la phase huileuse dans la phase aqueuse sous agitation. On agite pendant 10 minutes pour faire l'émulsion, puis on ajoute la phase C, la phase B et enfin la phase E pour neutraliser le Carbopol. Oily phase (phase A) Apricot oil 1% Silicone oil 5% Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G from Henkel) 1% Filters (Parsol MCX, Mexoryl SX and Eusolex 232) 9.5% Phase B Starch 0.5% 12% MA silicone gum (DC2-9085) (i.e. 0.024% dimethiconol and 0.176% dimethicone) 0.2% Gelling agents (Phase C) hydroxyethyl 0.1% Carbomer (carbopol) 0.7% Water phase (phase D) Conservative qs Glycerin 5% Water qs 100% Phase E Triethanolamine (neutralizer) qs pH 6 Procedure: the oily and aqueous phases are prepared separately at 70 ° C. and the oily phase is poured into the aqueous phase with stirring. Agitation is carried out for 10 minutes to make the emulsion, then phase C, phase B and finally phase E are added to neutralize the Carbopol.

    On obtient une crème apte à être appliquée sur la peau pour la protéger contre les effets de la pollution et notamment pour limiter l'adhérence des particules polluantes sur la peau.A cream is obtained which can be applied to the skin to protect it against the effects of pollution and in particular to limit the adhesion of particles polluting on the skin.

    Exemple 4 : Emulsion H/EExample 4: O / W emulsion

    Phase huileuse (Phase A) Huile d'abricot 1 % Huile de silicone 5 % Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G de la société Henkel) 1 % Filtres (Parsol MCX, Mexoryl SX et Eusolex 232) 9,5 % Phase B Amidon 0,5 % Gélifiants (phase C) Hydroxyéthylcellulose 0,1 % Carbomer (carbopol) 0,7 % Phase aqueuse (phase D) Conservateur qs Glycérine 5 % Eau qsp 100 % Phase E Triéthanolamine (neutralisant) qs pH 6 Mode opératoire : on prépare séparément les phases huileuse et aqueuse à 70°C et on verse la phase huileuse dans la phase aqueuse sous agitation. On agite pendant 10 minutes pour faire l'émulsion, puis on ajoute la phase C, puis la phase B et enfin la phase E pour neutraliser le Carbopol. Oily phase (Phase A) Apricot oil 1% Silicone oil 5% Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G from Henkel) 1% Filters (Parsol MCX, Mexoryl SX and Eusolex 232) 9.5% Phase B Starch 0.5% Gelling agents (phase C) hydroxyethyl 0.1% Carbomer (carbopol) 0.7% Water phase (phase D) Conservative qs Glycerin 5% Water qs 100% Phase E Triethanolamine (neutralizer) qs pH 6 Procedure: the oily and aqueous phases are prepared separately at 70 ° C. and the oily phase is poured into the aqueous phase with stirring. Stirred for 10 minutes to make the emulsion, then add phase C, then phase B and finally phase E to neutralize the Carbopol.

    On obtient une crème apte à être appliquée sur la peau pour la protéger contre les effets de la pollution et notamment pour limiter l'adhérence des particules polluantes sur la peau.A cream is obtained which can be applied to the skin to protect it against the effects of pollution and in particular to limit the adhesion of particles polluting on the skin.

    II. Mise en évidence de l'activité anti-pollution de l'amidon seul et associé avec une gomme de siliconeII. Demonstration of the anti-pollution activity of starch alone and associated with a silicone gum

    Pour mettre en évidence l'activité anti-pollution de l'amidon et de l'association amidon et gomme de silicone, on a testé les compositions décrites ci-dessus contenant soit 2% d'amidon (exemple 4) soit 0,5% d'amidon et 0,2% de gomme de silicone (exemples 1 à 3). Les placebos sont les mêmes compositions sans amidon ni gomme de silicone.To highlight the anti-pollution activity of starch and the association starch and silicone gum, the compositions described above were tested containing either 2% starch (example 4) or 0.5% starch and 0.2% gum silicone (examples 1 to 3). Placebos are the same compositions without starch or silicone gum.

    1. Protocole utilisé1. Protocol used

    Matériel biologique : Epidermes humains reconstruits vendus par la société EPISKIN® (LYON, France) avec ses milieux de maintenance et d'essai (Kit). Biological material : Reconstructed human epidermis sold by the company EPISKIN® (LYON, France) with its maintenance and test media (Kit).

    Réactifs : (1) Particules Diesel commercialisées sous la dénomination Diesel Particules Matter 1650 par la société National Institute of Standard Technology (USA) ; (2) Air comprimé dépoussiérant sec commercialisé sous la dénomination SOUFFL'SEC par la société AF France ; (3)_sébum artificiel. Reagents : (1) Diesel Particles marketed under the name Diesel Particles Matter 1650 by the company National Institute of Standard Technology (USA); (2) Dry dusty compressed air marketed under the name SOUFFL'SEC by AF France; (3) _artificial oil.

    L'air comprimé sert dans le test, à éliminer les particules non attachées (adsorbées) à la surface de la peau, le but étant de mimer les turbulences d'air auxquelles la peau et les particules sont soumises dans la réalité.Compressed air is used in the test to remove loose particles (adsorbed) on the surface of the skin, the aim being to mimic air turbulence to which the skin and particles are subjected in reality.

    Appareillage et petit matériel :

    • Tubes polystyrène usage unique 10ml et bouchons ;
    • Spatule inox recourbée ;
    • Balance de précision au 1/10e de mg (METTLER ou similaire) ;
    • Analyseur d'image avec caméra vidéo noir et blanc munie d'un objectif zoom de type Leica Q500IW ou similaire ;
    • Poste de sécurité microbiologique.
    Apparatus and small equipment :
    • 10ml single use polystyrene tubes and stoppers;
    • Curved stainless steel spatula;
    • Precision balance to 1 / 10th of mg (METTLER or similar);
    • Image analyzer with black and white video camera fitted with a Leica Q500IW or similar zoom lens;
    • Microbiological safety cabinet.

    2. Test : On a déposé sur l'épiderme humain reconstruit, 2 mg/cm2 de sébum avec une spatule recourbée. Puis, on a laissé sécher à l'air libre (sans couvercle) sous la hotte à flux laminaire pendant deux heures. 2. Test: 2 mg / cm 2 of sebum was deposited on the reconstructed human epidermis with a curved spatula. Then, it was allowed to air dry (without cover) under the laminar flow hood for two hours.

    L'application de sébum permet d'obtenir une peau plus proche de la peau humaine réelle, par exemple de la peau du visage sur laquelle il y a du sébum in vivo.The application of sebum makes it possible to obtain skin which is closer to real human skin, for example the skin of the face on which there is sebum in vivo .

    Ensuite, on a déposé sur l'épiderme de peau reconstruite les compositions à tester avec une spatule recourbée à raison de 2 mg/cm2. On les a laissé sécher à l'air libre (sans couvercle) sous la hotte à flux laminaire pendant 30 minutes. Ensuite, on y a déposé (sous poste de sécurité) 1,5 mg de particules Diesel que l'on a réparties à la surface de l'épiderme. On a éliminé l'excès de particules par retournement de la nacelle et on a séché 10 min à l'air libre (sans couvercle), puis on a quantifié par analyse d'image les particules Diesel ayant adhérées, c'est-à-dire la surface initiale salie.Then, the compositions to be tested were placed on the epidermis of reconstructed skin with a curved spatula at the rate of 2 mg / cm 2 . They were allowed to air dry (without cover) under the laminar flow hood for 30 minutes. Then, 1.5 mg of diesel particles were deposited there (under a safety post) which were distributed on the surface of the epidermis. The excess particles were removed by inverting the nacelle and dried 10 min in the open air (without cover), then quantified by image analysis the Diesel particles having adhered, that is to say say the initial surface soiled.

    On a ensuite nettoyé (sous poste de sécurité) par pulvérisation d'air sec pendant 10 secondes à 25 cm de la nacelle. On a laissé sécher 10 minutes à l'air libre (sans couvercle), puis on a quantifié par analyse d'image les particules restantes, c'est-à-dire la surface salie restante.It was then cleaned (under safety post) by spraying with dry air for 10 seconds at 25 cm from the basket. We let it dry for 10 minutes in the open air (without cover), then the remaining particles were quantified by image analysis, that is to say the remaining soiled area.

    3. Calculs3. Calculations

    On calcule le pourcentage de particules éliminées selon l'équation : % particules éliminées = (surface initiale salie - surface salie restante)surface initiale salie x 100 We calculate the percentage of particles removed according to the equation: % particles removed = (initial soiled area - remaining soiled area) soiled initial surface x 100

    4. Résultats : 4. Results :

    (Dans les tableaux ci-dessous, SD signifie « standard deviation »). Composés anti-pollution % particules éliminées SD Significativité Exemple 1 selon l'invention 64,09 1,25 p<0,05 (par rapport au placébo et au sébum) témoin placebo 47,09 3,79 témoin sébum 36,8 4,8 Composés anti-pollution % particules éliminées SD significativité Exemple 2 selon l'invention 50 6,1 p<0,05 (par rapport au placébo et au sébum) témoin placebo 40,5 4,5 témoin sébum 36,8 4,8 Composés anti-pollution % particules éliminées SD significativité Exemple 3 selon l'invention 56,07 4,46 p<0,05 (par rapport au sébum) témoin placebo 51,2 2,58 témoin sébum 36,8 4,8 Composés anti-pollution % particules éliminées SD Significativité Exemple 4 selon l'invention 58,01 2,96 p<0,05 (par rapport au sébum) témoin placebo 46,76 4,54 témoin sébum 36,8 4,8 (In the tables below, SD means "standard deviation"). Anti-pollution compounds % particles removed SD significance Example 1 according to the invention 64.09 1.25 p <0.05 (relative to placebo and sebum) placebo control 47.09 3.79 sebum witness 36.8 4.8 Anti-pollution compounds % particles removed SD significance Example 2 according to the invention 50 6.1 p <0.05 (relative to placebo and sebum) placebo control 40.5 4.5 sebum witness 36.8 4.8 Anti-pollution compounds % particles removed SD significance Example 3 according to the invention 56.07 4.46 p <0.05 (relative to sebum) placebo control 51.2 2.58 sebum witness 36.8 4.8 Anti-pollution compounds % particles removed SD significance Example 4 according to the invention 58.01 2.96 p <0.05 (relative to sebum) placebo control 46.76 4.54 sebum witness 36.8 4.8

    Les résultats indiqués dans les tableaux ci-dessus montrent un effet anti-pollution significatif (T Student, p<0.05) des compositions contenant un amidon ou un amidon et une gomme de silicone, vis à vis des particules standard diesel, comparativement aux épidermes surfacés avec du sébum.The results indicated in the tables above show an anti-pollution effect significant (T Student, p <0.05) of the compositions containing a starch or a starch and silicone gum, against standard diesel particles, compared to epidermis surfaced with sebum.

    Claims (25)

    Utilisation cosmétique d'au moins un amidon, comme agent cosmétique anti-pollution, dans une composition pour application topique sur les matières kératiniques.Cosmetic use of at least one starch, as an anti-pollution cosmetic agent, in a composition for topical application to materials keratin. Utilisation d'au moins un amidon, pour la préparation d'une composition à application topique destinée à protéger les matières kératiniques contre les effets nocifs de la pollution.Use of at least one starch, for the preparation of a composition with topical application intended to protect keratin materials against the effects harmful from pollution. Utilisation selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée par le fait que la quantité d'amidon(s) va de 0,05 à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the amount of starch (s) ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que l'amidon est choisi parmi les amidons de maïs, de riz, de manioc, de pomme de terre, de blé, de sorgho, de pois, natifs ou modifiés, et leurs mélanges.Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the starch is chosen from starches of corn, rice, cassava, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, native or modified, and their mixtures. Utilisation selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait que l'amidon est un amidon non modifié.Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the starch is an unmodified starch. Utilisation selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait que l'amidon est un amidon de maïs.Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the starch is a corn starch. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que la composition contient en outre au moins une gomme de silicone.Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also contains at least one silicone gum. Utilisation selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait que la gomme de silicone est choisie parmi les composés de formule (I) suivante :
    Figure 00170001
    dans laquelle : R1 représente ―CH3, -OH, -C6H5 ou -OSi(CH3)3, R2 représente ―CH3, -OH ou -C6H5, x = 0 ou un nombre entier et y est un nombre entier, y ou x + y étant des nombres entiers tels que la masse moléculaire moyenne en poids soit supérieure à 100 000, et de préférence aille de 100 000 à 1 500 000.     Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the silicone gum is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below:
    Figure 00170001
    in which : R1 represents ―CH 3 , -OH, -C 6 H 5 or -OSi (CH 3 ) 3 , R2 represents ―CH 3 , -OH or -C 6 H 5 , x = 0 or an integer and there is an integer, y or x + y being whole numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass is greater than 100,000, and preferably ranges from 100,000 to 1,500,000.     Utilisation selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce que la gomme de silicone est un diméthiconol. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the silicone gum is a dimethiconol. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 7 à 9, caractérisée par le fait que la quantité de gomme(s) de silicone va de 0,01 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.Use according to any one of Claims 7 to 9, characterized in that the amount of silicone gum (s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que la composition contient en outre un filtre solaire.Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also contains a sunscreen. Composition à application topique, contenant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un amidon non modifié, choisi parmi les amidons de maïs, de riz, de manioc, de pomme de terre, de blé, de sorgho et de pois, et au moins une gomme de silicone.Composition for topical application, containing in a medium physiologically acceptable, at least one unmodified starch, chosen from starches of corn, rice, cassava, potato, wheat, sorghum and peas, and at least one silicone gum. Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait que l'amidon est un amidon de maïs.Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the starch is a corn starch. Composition selon la revendication 12 ou 13, caractérisée par le fait que la gomme de silicone est choisie parmi les composés de formule (I) suivante :
    Figure 00180001
    dans laquelle : R1 représente ―CH3, -OH, -C6H5 ou -OSi(CH3)3, R2 représente ―CH3, -OH ou -C6H5, x = 0 ou un nombre entier et y est un nombre entier, y ou x + y étant des nombres entiers tels que la masse moléculaire moyenne en poids soit supérieure à 100 000, et de préférence aille de 100 000 et 1 500 000.     Composition according to Claim 12 or 13, characterized in that the silicone gum is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below:
    Figure 00180001
    in which : R1 represents ―CH 3 , -OH, -C 6 H 5 or -OSi (CH 3 ) 3 , R2 represents ―CH 3 , -OH or -C 6 H 5 , x = 0 or an integer and there is an integer, y or x + y being whole numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass is greater than 100,000, and preferably ranges from 100,000 to 1,500,000.     Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce que la gomme de silicone est un diméthiconol.Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the silicone gum is a dimethiconol. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 12 à 15, caractérisée par le fait que la quantité d'amidon(s) va de 0,05 à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, et de préférence de 0,1 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 15, characterized in that the amount of starch (s) ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0, 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 12 à 16, caractérisée en ce que la quantité de gomme(s) de silicone va de 0,01 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, et de préférence de 0,05 à 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 16, characterized in that the amount of silicone gum (s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0, 05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 12 à 17, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle contient en outre au moins un filtre solaire. Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 17, characterized in that it also contains at least one sunscreen. Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait que la quantité de filtre(s) va de 0,5 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the amount of filter (s) ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition selon la revendication 18 ou 19, caractérisée par le fait que le filtre est choisi parmi l'octylméthoxycinnamate, l'acide téréphtalylidène di-camphre sulfonique, le benzophénone-3, l'acide phénylbenzimidazole sulfonique et leurs mélanges.Composition according to Claim 18 or 19, characterized in that the filter is chosen from octylmethoxycinnamate, terephthalylidene di-camphor sulfonic acid, 3-benzophenone, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and their mixtures. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 12 à 20 caractérisée par le fait qu'elle se présente sous forme d'une émulsion.Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 20, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion. Procédé de traitement cosmétique en vue de protéger une matière kératinique contre les effets de la pollution, consistant à appliquer sur la matière kératinique, une composition contenant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, une quantité efficace d'au moins un amidon.Cosmetic treatment method for protecting keratinous material against the effects of pollution, consisting in applying to keratinous matter, a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a effective amount of at least one starch. Procédé de traitement cosmétique d'une matière kératinique en vue d'améliorer sa respiration cellulaire et/ou de diminuer sa desquamation et/ou pour éviter de la ternir et/ou de la salir, consistant à appliquer sur la matière kératinique, une composition contenant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, une quantité efficace d'au moins un amidon.Cosmetic treatment process for a keratinous material in view improve cellular respiration and / or decrease flaking and / or avoid tarnishing and / or soiling, consisting in applying to the material keratin, a composition containing in a physiologically medium acceptable, an effective amount of at least one starch. Procédé selon la revendication 22 ou 23, caractérisé par le fait que la composition contient en outre au moins une gomme de silicone.Method according to claim 22 or 23, characterized in that the composition also contains at least one silicone gum. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 22 à 24, caractérisé par le fait que la matière kératinique est la peau.Process according to any one of Claims 22 to 24, characterized in that the keratinous material is the skin.
    EP02290093A 2001-02-07 2002-01-15 Topical anti-pollution composition Withdrawn EP1230914A1 (en)

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    US20020161104A1 (en) 2002-10-31

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