EP1085113A2 - Textile article comprising regenerated cellulose - Google Patents

Textile article comprising regenerated cellulose Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1085113A2
EP1085113A2 EP00402474A EP00402474A EP1085113A2 EP 1085113 A2 EP1085113 A2 EP 1085113A2 EP 00402474 A EP00402474 A EP 00402474A EP 00402474 A EP00402474 A EP 00402474A EP 1085113 A2 EP1085113 A2 EP 1085113A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fibers
polyester
cellulose
microfibers
cellulose fibers
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
EP00402474A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1085113A3 (en
Inventor
Manlio c/o Descamps S.A. Zucchi
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Descamps SA
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Descamps SA
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Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR9911436A external-priority patent/FR2798399A1/en
Application filed by Descamps SA filed Critical Descamps SA
Publication of EP1085113A2 publication Critical patent/EP1085113A2/en
Publication of EP1085113A3 publication Critical patent/EP1085113A3/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/573—Tensile strength
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/13—Physical properties anti-allergenic or anti-bacterial
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/22—Physical properties protective against sunlight or UV radiation
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2503/00—Domestic or personal
    • D10B2503/06—Bed linen

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a textile article, especially for household or bathroom linen, for example for bed sheets or sponge, for clothing, for example for shirts, and the like, comprising cellulose, especially cotton, or polyester.
  • the present invention aims to overcome these disadvantages through a new textile article which is softer, finer, of great color brilliance and a strong tear resistance.
  • the textile article is such that described in claim 1.
  • the present invention relates to an article textile more resistant to tearing.
  • the textile article is as described in claim 2.
  • the article textile contains 10 to 50% by weight of regenerated cellulose and from 10 to 50% by weight of polyester.
  • a microfiber is a fiber whose title is less than or equal to a dTex.
  • Test Unit Micromodal Modal Headline dTex 1.0 1.7 Solidity, resistance, conditioned condition cN / Tex 35 35 Tear resistance, elongation, conditioned condition % 13 14 Wet strength cN / Tex 20.5 20.5 Tear resistance, elongation in the wet % 14 15 Humidity % 11 11 Module according to BISFA cN / Tex / 5% 7 6.5
  • microfibers which have a higher number of fibers in the section, we obtain threads thinner.
  • the fibers provide shine and different light reflectance, coloring is by therefore clearer.
  • the brighter appearance is due to large numbers of fibers in section which increases the light reflecting surface.
  • the good features fibers are retained and the behavior chemical, in the process of producing the two types of fibers above, is identical.
  • the polyester fibers are in the form of polyester microfibers.
  • Test Unit Filifine PES fibers Sample Method Device used Title (weight) d'Tex 0.92 1.5 20 strands Linear mass measurement Vibromat M Solidity, resistance, conditioned condition cN / Tex 65 64 20 strands Dynamometry Fafegraph M Sizing rate % 0.10 0.09 15 g of fiber Sizing rate by ether extraction Cold ether extraction Humidity % 0.55 0.55 10 g of fiber Humidity rate on drawn fiber under study Memmert oven Humidity % 0.55 0.55 2 g of fiber Humidity rate on drawn fiber under study Infralyser Practical cutting length mm 35 355 100 strands Cutting diagram Oil plate
  • the titer is measured by a vibroscope. This method is based on measuring the mass per unit of length, i.e. the linear mass of the fiber.
  • the control is carried out on cable (before cutting) on 10 wicks of around 600 dtex.
  • the principle consists in measuring the length of a rag held between two pliers, before and after stress-free heat treatment. This processing is done in a saturated vapor atmosphere at 130 ° C for 30 minutes.
  • the humidity is the measure of the loss of weight of a drawn fiber sample after baking at 200 ° C during one hour.
  • the extraction of the size is carried out on 15 g of fibers with ethyl ether, evaporation of the ether and weighing of the residue.
  • polyester fibers standard and FILIFIN are very close. They are all both designed for a harmonious marriage with all other fibers for cotton system spinning. The difference lies in the unit title of the strand which is 0.92 dTex therefore less than or equal to 1 dTex instead of 1.5 dTex for standard polyester fiber. This is also where the specificity of FILIFINE which claims to renowned properties of common fibers and adds to them the essentials: comfort, softness, lightness. Softer and more tenacious than cotton, it is also easier maintenance. The difference in draft between the fiber and the microfiber brings more finesse to the fabric.
  • regenerated cellulose is included in the group consisting of viscose, modal, polynosic, cupro and lyocell with a preference for modal.
  • the article comprises by weight from 10 to 50% of regenerated cellulose, 10 to 50% cotton, 10 to 50% cotton polyester microfibers, the sum of the three constituents being equal to 100%.
  • the article includes less 45% regenerated cellulose.
  • the invention finally relates to a manufacturing process of an article, characterized in that it consists of weaving at cellulose fibers, preferably polyester fibers polyester microfibers, or a mixture of fibers cellulose and polyester fibers and fibers regenerated cellulose, preferably microfibers regenerated cellulose, and subjecting the fabric to a heat setting at a temperature sufficient to soften superficially polyester fibers.
  • Cellulose microfibers can be made regenerated as follows.
  • Wood is the raw material for production chemical pulp: in wood there is about 40% of cellulose. The other substances (lignite and sugar) are dissolved while the cellulose goes to a solid state under form of chemical pulp.
  • the wood used in this process is mainly beech.
  • the beech pulp is then bleached with oxygen. This method causes less pollution than laundering chlorine.
  • the wood is cut in two-meter sections and then go through a chopper to get sawdust.
  • a conveyor take the sawdust to the digestive paste.
  • the wood is then digested for eight hours at 140-150 degrees centigrade, under a pressure of 8 bars.
  • the cellulose that is extracted meets standards of very high quality and purity. That's why she is mechanically cleaned, washed and bleached with oxygen course of several stages. Bleached cellulose is dehydrated, shredded and made into flakes, where it is further processed. Cellulose can also be dried in the form of tablecloths for storage or transport.
  • magnesium bisulfite uses a solution of Mg (HSO3) 2 as acid which is reinforced with sulfur dioxide. Sulfur dioxide is partially neutralized by hydrated magnesium oxide - Mg (OH) 2 - in the purpose of producing the acid. During this process, the fibers chemicals are obtained by burning the acid solution concentrate (liquid waste), which can be recycled up to 99%.
  • the "viscose” process to pass from the pulp chemical to fibers, is a chemical process.
  • the chemical pulp is immersed in a solution of hydroxide sodium, which converts it to alkali cellulose.
  • the extra sodium hydroxide is pressed, the rest of cellulose of alkali is defibrated and sent to a very high tank temperature.
  • the alkali cellulose undergoes xanthalation (agitation, kneading in the presence of carbon bisulfite). Then when it is dissolved in water and alcohol, this substance becomes viscose. This viscose must be homogeneous, without bubbles or impurities to be able to pass through the channels. That is why it is previously filtered, deaerated and ironed by a second stage of maturity.
  • the viscose is then transported to the spinning by pressurized hoses. Pumps compress viscose in spinning tanks.
  • the viscose then passes through thousands of ultra fine holes. It is at this stage that we give the fiber properties of microfibers. The diameter of the holes sectors being more reduced (40 to 50 thousandths of millimeter), we obtain a fiber of a lower grade or equal to 1 dTex which can be classified in the field of microfibers.
  • Spinning trays contain acid sulfuric, sodium sulfate and zinc sulfate. From that the alkali viscose goes into the acid bath, the acid sulfuric neutralizes sodium hydroxide. Cellulose dissolved is regenerated and recovered in the form of filaments. This is why viscose fibers are called regenerated cellulose. After the spinning stage, the filaments come out at constant speed in the form of a ribbon, which are stretched and then cut to a desired length. The material is then packaged as bales for shipping.
  • microfibers from (poly (ethylene terephthalate)) as follows:
  • the manufacturing processes are identical between FILIFIN and the standard in 1.5 dTex.
  • esterification then, on the other hand of polycondensation a mixture of two components: glycol and acid terephthalic.
  • the polymer thus obtained is then extruded then spun to get a cable.
  • the latter after treatments mechanical will be sectioned in fraction ranging from 35 to 40 mm.
  • the manufacturing processes for fibers and microfibers are very close. The significant difference is found at the time of extrusion and spinning to obtain a final unit titer of 0.9 dTex.
  • Cotton, polyester microfibers and microfibers of regenerated cellulose are integrated into a spinning processes such as the yarn obtained meets the weaving and finished product requirements.
  • Next sons the invention can be woven on any type of loom to weave (water jet, shuttle air jet). We can ennoble by a buckling.
  • the appearance of the fabric gains a lot in sharpness.
  • the flame height is fixed, the only adjustment possible can be done on the speed of passage of the fabric on the flame.
  • the speed is about 100 to 120 m / mm.
  • the fabric can then pass through an autoclave to undergo different treatments:
  • Alkaline bleaching with hydrogen peroxide is useful to destroy the yellowish color of cotton with a scouring effect which will complete the elimination of residual impurities.
  • the polyester part once degreased has a lighter color than cotton.
  • Money laundering hydrogen peroxide will also remove grayish stains left by soiling and spinning operations and weaving.
  • the fabric is bleached at a higher temperature or equal to 70 ° C.
  • the fabric can then pass through a dryer train thermofixer.
  • the compartments of the oars are maintained at 195 ° C and the fabric is heat-fixed for about 20 seconds.
  • the desired width is obtained by two chains trimmed with clips adjusted exactly to the desired width which tend symmetrically and simultaneously the fabric on either side of the center. For example, for a finished width of 240 cm, the darts are adjusted to 243 cm.
  • Polyester microfiber fabrics can be subjected to a thermofixation which makes it possible to fix the shrinkage and avoid the Sanforizing step.
  • the traction / elongation behavior viscose microfibers is perfectly suited to others constituents of the mixture, i.e. polyester and cotton.
  • the fabric will now be dried and then finished with passage on oar. It leaves the autoclave in the wet state. The cloth is passed through a scarf containing water and finishing chemicals then it is expressed. The rowing is therefore useful for regularizing the rate of moisture in the fabric and incorporate the products necessary to give the fabric the characteristics desired endings.
  • the articles according to the invention have only a slight loss of resistance taking into account the tensions exerted course of preliminary treatments and effects of primers are better in comparison with viscose.
  • a web weave was formed, with a texture of 31 threads / cm of warp, 26 picks / cm of 122 g / m 2 , in a mixture of 40% micromodal (microfibers of regenerated cellulose supplied by Lenzing), 40% of Filifine (microfibers of polyester supplied by TERGAL FIBERS of RHONE POULENC) and 20% combed cotton, on the other hand, a plain weave in 100% carded cotton of 110 g / m 2 and of texture 31/26, finally a polyester (50%) carded cotton (50%), texture 31/26, weight 114 g / m 2 , which correspond to the most widespread products on the market.
  • the invention consisting of mixture of 40% micromodal, 40% micropolyester and 20% combed cotton, higher values of tear strength, these values indicate the strength at exercise on the test tube to tear the tissue. More this the greater the value, the more the fabric resists tearing.
  • the percentage elongation is the ratio between the size initial specimen and final specimen size before the break. Therefore, the following article the invention is more resistant to tearing than the fabric 100% cotton and that polycotton, which implies a higher lifetime probability.
  • Samples according to the invention have undergone tests to simulate a possible pilling that may appear in everyday life. After a number of cycles, the test tubes are superimposed on standard images to which a score is assigned (score ranging from 1 to 5, 5 being the state where no pilling appears, 1 a very intense pilling).
  • the article according to the invention pills less than fabric 100% cotton and polycotton.
  • items may be subject to singeing and primed with a suitable resin. This allows strongly avoid the formation of unwanted pilling during processing or use.
  • the dimensional stability of the following article the invention obtained after 10 washes is much better than that of a cotton item.
  • Cellulosic fibers and in particular the types of regenerated fibers absorb relatively large amounts of water and therefore swell more or less.
  • Viscose microfibers differ from viscose fibers, by much higher resistances, by lower water absorption capacity and swelling lesser.
  • the microfibers make it possible to correct the withdrawal issues. Indeed, the tissue swells less, which considerably reduces the internal tensions in the tissue. During drying, these swellings are eliminated, releases tension (lower than with other supports) and the textile material shrinks much less.
  • the "crumpled" sample is compared to 5 images representative of a certain degree of wrinkle, a note going from 1 to 5 is then assigned (the rating 5 corresponds with the smoothest appearance, rating 1 with the most smooth appearance crumpled).
  • the threads have good regularity, a shine pronounced, a very soft character and gives a touch and a lead inimitable to warp and weft fabrics.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

Textile articles consisting of cellulose fibres or polyester fibres or a mixture of these also contain regenerated cellulose (RCF) in the form of micro-fibres with a titre of not more than 1 dtex. Independent claims are also included for: (a) textile articles consisting of cellulose fibres, or a mixture of cellulose and polyester fibres, plus RCF; (b) a process for the production of such articles by weaving cellulose fibres, polyester fibres or a mixture of these (preferably using polyester microfibres) and RCF (preferably microfibres) and then heat-fixing the fabric at a temperature sufficient to cause superficial softening of the polyester fibres.

Description

La présente invention concerne un article textile, notamment pour le linge de maison ou de toilette, par exemple pour des draps de lit ou de l'éponge, pour l'habillement, par exemple pour des chemises, et analogue, comportant de la cellulose, notamment du coton, ou du polyester.The present invention relates to a textile article, especially for household or bathroom linen, for example for bed sheets or sponge, for clothing, for example for shirts, and the like, comprising cellulose, especially cotton, or polyester.

Les articles textiles actuels par exemple les draps de lit, qui sont généralement soit en 100 % coton soit en un mélange 50 % polyester et 50 % coton cardé sont peu résistants à la déchirure, se froissent beaucoup, ne sont pas très doux ni très fins, et ont tendance à perdre en toucher et stabilité dimensionnelle après plusieurs lavages.Current textile articles such as sheets which are usually either 100% cotton or a 50% polyester and 50% carded cotton blend are few tear resistant, very wrinkled, not very soft or very fine, and tend to lose touch and dimensional stability after several washes.

La présente invention vise à pallier ces inconvénients par le biais d'un article textile nouveau qui est plus doux, plus fin, d'une grande brillance des couleurs et d'une forte résistance à la déchirure.The present invention aims to overcome these disadvantages through a new textile article which is softer, finer, of great color brilliance and a strong tear resistance.

Suivant l'invention, l'article textile est tel que décrit à la revendication 1.According to the invention, the textile article is such that described in claim 1.

En outre la présente invention vise un article textile plus résistant à la déchirure. Suivant l'invention, l'article textile est tel que décrit à la revendication 2.Furthermore the present invention relates to an article textile more resistant to tearing. According to the invention, the textile article is as described in claim 2.

Suivant un mode de réalisation préféré, l'article textile comporte de 10 à 50 % en poids de cellulose régénérée et de 10 à 50 % en poids de polyester. On peut y ajouter du coton cardé ou peigné.According to a preferred embodiment, the article textile contains 10 to 50% by weight of regenerated cellulose and from 10 to 50% by weight of polyester. We can add carded or combed cotton.

Une microfibre est une fibre dont le titre est inférieur ou égal à un dTex.A microfiber is a fiber whose title is less than or equal to a dTex.

Le tableau ci-dessous compare les fibres aux microfibres pour la cellulose régénérée (exemple pour le modal) et les normes et/ou le matériel utilisé pour obtenir ces valeurs. Test Unité Micromodal Modal Titre dTex 1,0 1,7 Solidité, résistance, état conditionné cN/Tex 35 35 Résistance à la déchirure, allongement, état conditionné % 13 14 Solidité au mouillé cN/Tex 20,5 20,5 Résistance à la déchirure, allongement au mouillé % 14 15 Humidité % 11 11 Module selon BISFA cN/Tex/5% 7 6,5 The table below compares the fibers to microfibers for regenerated cellulose (example for modal) and the standards and / or the material used to obtain these values. Test Unit Micromodal Modal Headline dTex 1.0 1.7 Solidity, resistance, conditioned condition cN / Tex 35 35 Tear resistance, elongation, conditioned condition % 13 14 Wet strength cN / Tex 20.5 20.5 Tear resistance, elongation in the wet % 14 15 Humidity % 11 11 Module according to BISFA cN / Tex / 5% 7 6.5

En prévoyant ainsi des microfibres, qui ont un nombre plus élevé de fibres à la section, on obtient des fils plus fins. Les fibres apportent une brillance et une réflectance à la lumière différente, la coloration est par conséquent plus claire. L'aspect plus brillant est dû aux nombres importants de fibres en section qui augmente la surface de réflexion de la lumière. On obtient également un aspect plus soyeux, une meilleure stabilité dimensionnelle après lavage. D'autre part, les bonnes caractéristiques relatives aux fibres sont conservées et le comportement chimique, dans le procédé de production des deux types de fibres ci-dessus, est identique.By thus providing microfibers, which have a higher number of fibers in the section, we obtain threads thinner. The fibers provide shine and different light reflectance, coloring is by therefore clearer. The brighter appearance is due to large numbers of fibers in section which increases the light reflecting surface. We also get a smoother appearance, better dimensional stability after washing. On the other hand, the good features fibers are retained and the behavior chemical, in the process of producing the two types of fibers above, is identical.

Suivant un perfectionnement de l'invention, les fibres de polyester sont sous la forme de microfibres de polyester. Voici ci-dessous un tableau comparatif entre les fibres et les microfibres. Test Unité Filifine Fibres PES Echantillon Méthode Appareil utilisé Titre (poids) d'Tex 0,92 1,5 20 brins Mesure de masse linéique Vibromat M Solidité, résistance, état conditionné cN/Tex 65 64 20 brins Dynamométrie Fafegraph M Taux d'ensimage % 0,10 0,09 15 g de fibres Taux d'ensimage par extraction à l'éther Extraction éther à froid Humidité % 0,55 0,55 10 g de fibres Taux d'humidité sur fibre étirée à l'étude Etuve Mémmert Humidité % 0,55 0,55 2 g de fibres Taux d'humidité sur fibre étirée à l'étude Infralyseur Longueur de coupe pratique mm 35 355 100 brins Diagramme de coupe Plaque à huile According to an improvement of the invention, the polyester fibers are in the form of polyester microfibers. Here is a comparative table between fibers and microfibers. Test Unit Filifine PES fibers Sample Method Device used Title (weight) d'Tex 0.92 1.5 20 strands Linear mass measurement Vibromat M Solidity, resistance, conditioned condition cN / Tex 65 64 20 strands Dynamometry Fafegraph M Sizing rate % 0.10 0.09 15 g of fiber Sizing rate by ether extraction Cold ether extraction Humidity % 0.55 0.55 10 g of fiber Humidity rate on drawn fiber under study Memmert oven Humidity % 0.55 0.55 2 g of fiber Humidity rate on drawn fiber under study Infralyser Practical cutting length mm 35 355 100 strands Cutting diagram Oil plate

1. - Le titre (norme NF G07-007)1. - The title (standard NF G07-007)

Le titre est mesuré par un vibroscope. Cette méthode est basée sur la mesure de la masse par unité de longueur, c'est-à-dire la masse linéique de la fibre.The titer is measured by a vibroscope. This method is based on measuring the mass per unit of length, i.e. the linear mass of the fiber.

2. - Allongement et ténacité (norme NF G07-008)2. - Elongation and toughness (standard NF G07-008)

Ces deux paramètres sont mesurés sur un Fafegraph. Le contrôle s'effectue sur les brins dont le titre est mesuré précédemment. Le brin est alors positionné entre 2 pinces qui s'éloignent verticalement jusqu'à la rupture. La courbe force/allongement se trace et les résultats s'affichent.These two parameters are measured on a Fafegraph. The control is carried out on the strands whose titer is measured previously. The strand is then positioned between 2 clips which move away vertically until breaking. The curve force / elongation is traced and the results are displayed.

3.- Retrait3.- Withdrawal

Le contrôle est réalisé sur câble (avant la coupe) sur 10 méchettes d'environ 600 dtex.The control is carried out on cable (before cutting) on 10 wicks of around 600 dtex.

Le principe consiste à mesurer la longueur d'une méchette maintenue entre deux pinces, avant et après traitement thermique sans tension. Ce traitement est effectué en atmosphère vapeur saturante à 130°C durant 30 minutes. The principle consists in measuring the length of a rag held between two pliers, before and after stress-free heat treatment. This processing is done in a saturated vapor atmosphere at 130 ° C for 30 minutes.

4. - Taux d'humidité4. - Humidity rate

Le taux d'humidité est la mesure de la perte de poids d'un échantillon de fibre étirée après étuvage à 200°C pendant une heure.The humidity is the measure of the loss of weight of a drawn fiber sample after baking at 200 ° C during one hour.

5. - Taux d'ensimage5. - Sizing rate

L'extraction de l'ensimage est réalisée sur 15 g de fibres par l'éther éthylique, évaporation de l'éther et pesée du résidu.The extraction of the size is carried out on 15 g of fibers with ethyl ether, evaporation of the ether and weighing of the residue.

6. - Diagramme de coupe (norme G07-006)6. - Cutting diagram (standard G07-006)

Nous mesurons la longueur sur 100 brins en les regroupant par classe de façon à pouvoir constituer un histogramme et calculons la moyenne et l'écart type des longueurs.We measure the length on 100 strands by them grouping by class so as to be able to constitute a histogram and calculate the mean and standard deviation of lengths.

Les valeurs mécaniques des fibres polyester standard et du FILIFINE sont très proches. Elles sont toutes les deux conçues pour un mariage harmonieux avec toutes les autres fibres pour la filature en système cotonnier. La différence réside dans le titre unitaire du brin qui est de 0,92 dTex donc inférieur ou égal à 1 dTex au lieu de 1,5 dTex pour la fibre polyester standard. C'est d'ailleurs là toute la spécificité de FILIFINE qui prétend à toutes les propriétés réputées des fibres courantes et y ajoute l'essentiel : le confort, la douceur, la légèreté. Plus douce et plus tenace que le coton, elle est aussi plus facile d'entretien. La différence de tirage entre la fibre et la microfibre apporte davantage de finesse au tissu.The mechanical values of polyester fibers standard and FILIFIN are very close. They are all both designed for a harmonious marriage with all other fibers for cotton system spinning. The difference lies in the unit title of the strand which is 0.92 dTex therefore less than or equal to 1 dTex instead of 1.5 dTex for standard polyester fiber. This is also where the specificity of FILIFINE which claims to renowned properties of common fibers and adds to them the essentials: comfort, softness, lightness. Softer and more tenacious than cotton, it is also easier maintenance. The difference in draft between the fiber and the microfiber brings more finesse to the fabric.

Suivant un mode de réalisation particulièrement préféré, la cellulose régénérée est comprise dans le groupe constitué de la viscose, du modal, du polynosic, du cupro et de la lyocell avec une préférence pour le modal.According to a particularly embodiment preferred, regenerated cellulose is included in the group consisting of viscose, modal, polynosic, cupro and lyocell with a preference for modal.

Suivant un mode de réalisation particulièrement préféré, l'article comporte en poids de 10 à 50 % de cellulose régénérée, 10 à 50 % de coton, de 10 à 50 % de microfibres de polyester, la somme des trois constituants étant égale à 100 %. De préférence l'article comprend moins de 45 % de cellulose régénérée.According to a particularly embodiment preferred, the article comprises by weight from 10 to 50% of regenerated cellulose, 10 to 50% cotton, 10 to 50% cotton polyester microfibers, the sum of the three constituents being equal to 100%. Preferably the article includes less 45% regenerated cellulose.

L'invention vise enfin un procédé de fabrication d'un article, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à tisser à des fibres de cellulose, des fibres de polyester de préférence de microfibres de polyester, ou un mélange de fibres de cellulose et de fibres de polyester et des fibres de cellulose régénérée, de préférence des microfibres de cellulose régénérée, et à faire subir au tissu une thermofixation à une température suffisante pour ramollir superficiellement les fibres de polyester.The invention finally relates to a manufacturing process of an article, characterized in that it consists of weaving at cellulose fibers, preferably polyester fibers polyester microfibers, or a mixture of fibers cellulose and polyester fibers and fibers regenerated cellulose, preferably microfibers regenerated cellulose, and subjecting the fabric to a heat setting at a temperature sufficient to soften superficially polyester fibers.

On peut fabriquer des microfibres de cellulose régénérée de la manière suivante.Cellulose microfibers can be made regenerated as follows.

⇒ Du bois à la pulpe chimique :⇒ From wood to chemical pulp:

Le bois est la matière première pour la production de la pulpe chimique : dans le bois il y a environ 40 % de cellulose. Les autres substances (lignite et sucre) sont dissoutes alors que la cellulose passe à un état solide sous forme de pulpe chimique.Wood is the raw material for production chemical pulp: in wood there is about 40% of cellulose. The other substances (lignite and sugar) are dissolved while the cellulose goes to a solid state under form of chemical pulp.

Le bois utilisé dans ce procédé est principalement du hêtre. La pâte de hêtre est ensuite blanchie à l'oxygène. Cette méthode entraíne moins de pollution qu'un blanchiment au chlore.The wood used in this process is mainly beech. The beech pulp is then bleached with oxygen. This method causes less pollution than laundering chlorine.

Le bois est coupé en section de deux mètres puis passe dans un hacheur pour obtenir de la sciure. Un convoyeur emmène la sciure à la pâte digestive. Le bois est ensuite digéré pendant huit heures à 140-150 degrés centigrades, sous une pression de 8 bars.The wood is cut in two-meter sections and then go through a chopper to get sawdust. A conveyor take the sawdust to the digestive paste. The wood is then digested for eight hours at 140-150 degrees centigrade, under a pressure of 8 bars.

La cellulose qui est extraite répond à des normes de qualité et de pureté très élevées. C'est pourquoi elle est nettoyée mécaniquement, lavée et blanchie à l'oxygène au cours de plusieurs étapes. La cellulose blanchie est déshydratée, déchiquetée et transformée en flocons, où elle est davantage traitée. La cellulose peut aussi être séchée sous forme de nappes pour le stockage ou le transport.The cellulose that is extracted meets standards of very high quality and purity. That's why she is mechanically cleaned, washed and bleached with oxygen course of several stages. Bleached cellulose is dehydrated, shredded and made into flakes, where it is further processed. Cellulose can also be dried in the form of tablecloths for storage or transport.

Le bisulfite de magnésium du procédé utilise une solution de Mg (HSO3)2 comme acide qui est renforcé au dioxyde de sulfure. Le dioxyde de sulfure est partiellement neutralisé par l'oxyde de magnésium hydraté - Mg(OH)2 - dans le but de produire l'acide. Durant ce procédé, les fibres chimiques sont obtenues par combustion de la solution d'acide concentré (déchets liquides), qui peut être recyclée à 99 %.The process magnesium bisulfite uses a solution of Mg (HSO3) 2 as acid which is reinforced with sulfur dioxide. Sulfur dioxide is partially neutralized by hydrated magnesium oxide - Mg (OH) 2 - in the purpose of producing the acid. During this process, the fibers chemicals are obtained by burning the acid solution concentrate (liquid waste), which can be recycled up to 99%.

⇒ De la pulpe chimique aux fibres et microfibres⇒ From chemical pulp to fibers and microfibers

Le procédé "viscose", pour passer de la pulpe chimique aux fibres, est un procédé chimique. D'abord, la pulpe chimique est plongée dans une solution d'hydroxyde de sodium, qui la convertit en cellulose d'alcali. Le surplus d'hydroxyde de sodium est pressé, le restant de cellulose d'alcali est défibré et envoyé dans une cuve à très haute température.The "viscose" process, to pass from the pulp chemical to fibers, is a chemical process. First, the chemical pulp is immersed in a solution of hydroxide sodium, which converts it to alkali cellulose. The extra sodium hydroxide is pressed, the rest of cellulose of alkali is defibrated and sent to a very high tank temperature.

Après cette première étape, la cellulose d'alcali subie une xanthalation (agitation, pétrissage en présence de bisulfite de carbone). Puis quand elle est dissoute dans l'eau et l'alcool, cette substance devient de la viscose. Cette viscose doit être homogène, sans bulles ni impuretés pour pouvoir passer au travers des filières. C'est pourquoi elle est auparavant filtrée, désaérée et repasse par une seconde étape de maturité.After this first step, the alkali cellulose undergoes xanthalation (agitation, kneading in the presence of carbon bisulfite). Then when it is dissolved in water and alcohol, this substance becomes viscose. This viscose must be homogeneous, without bubbles or impurities to be able to pass through the channels. That is why it is previously filtered, deaerated and ironed by a second stage of maturity.

La viscose est alors transportée au filage par des tuyaux pressurisés. Des pompes compressent la viscose dans des bacs de filage.The viscose is then transported to the spinning by pressurized hoses. Pumps compress viscose in spinning tanks.

On peut alors incorporer d'autres produits tels des produits de protection non feu, antibactériens, anti U.V., colorants pour teindre la fibre dans la masse. Avec de tels produits il est donc tout à fait possible d'obtenir des produits finis non feux ou anti bactériens, anti U.V. voir d'autres applications possibles.We can then incorporate other products such as non-fire, antibacterial, anti UV protection products, dyes for dyeing the fiber in the mass. With such products so it's entirely possible to get finished non-flammable or anti bacterial, anti UV rays see other possible applications.

La viscose passe ensuite au travers de milliers de trous ultra fins. C'est à cette étape que l'on confère aux fibres les propriétés des microfibres. Le diamètre des trous des filières étant plus réduit (40 à 50 millième de millimètre), on obtient une fibre d'un titre inférieur ou égal à 1 dTex que l'on peut classer dans le domaine des microfibres. Les bacs de filage contiennent de l'acide sulfurique, du sulfate de sodium et du sulfate de zinc. Dès que la viscose d'alcali passe dans le bain acide, l'acide sulfurique neutralise l'hydroxyde de sodium. La cellulose dissoute est régénérée et récupérée sous forme de filaments. C'est pourquoi les fibres de viscose sont appelées fibres de cellulose régénérée. Après l'étape du filage, les filaments sortent à vitesse constante sous forme de ruban, qui sont étirées puis coupés à une longueur voulue. La matière est ensuite conditionnée sous forme de balles pour l'expédition.The viscose then passes through thousands of ultra fine holes. It is at this stage that we give the fiber properties of microfibers. The diameter of the holes sectors being more reduced (40 to 50 thousandths of millimeter), we obtain a fiber of a lower grade or equal to 1 dTex which can be classified in the field of microfibers. Spinning trays contain acid sulfuric, sodium sulfate and zinc sulfate. From that the alkali viscose goes into the acid bath, the acid sulfuric neutralizes sodium hydroxide. Cellulose dissolved is regenerated and recovered in the form of filaments. This is why viscose fibers are called regenerated cellulose. After the spinning stage, the filaments come out at constant speed in the form of a ribbon, which are stretched and then cut to a desired length. The material is then packaged as bales for shipping.

On peut fabriquer des microfibres de (poly(téréphtalate d'éthylène)) de la manière suivante :We can make microfibers from (poly (ethylene terephthalate)) as follows:

Les procédés de fabrication sont identiques entre le FILIFINE et le standard en 1,5 dTex. Il s'agit, d'une part de l'estérification puis, d'autre part de la polycondensation d'un mélange de deux composants : le glycol et l'acide téréphtalique. Le polymère ainsi obtenu est ensuite extrudé puis filé pour obtenir un câble. Ce dernier après traitements mécaniques sera sectionné en fraction allant de 35 à 40 mm. Là encore les procédés de fabrication des fibres et des microfibres sont très proches. La différence significative se trouve au moment de l'extrusion et du filage pour obtenir un titre unitaire final de 0,9 dTex.The manufacturing processes are identical between FILIFIN and the standard in 1.5 dTex. On the one hand, of esterification then, on the other hand of polycondensation a mixture of two components: glycol and acid terephthalic. The polymer thus obtained is then extruded then spun to get a cable. The latter after treatments mechanical will be sectioned in fraction ranging from 35 to 40 mm. Again, the manufacturing processes for fibers and microfibers are very close. The significant difference is found at the time of extrusion and spinning to obtain a final unit titer of 0.9 dTex.

Le coton, les microfibres de polyester et les microfibres de cellulose régénérée sont intégrés dans un processus de filature tels que le fil obtenu répond aux exigences du tissage et du produit fini. Les fils suivant l'invention peuvent être tissés sur tout type de métier à tisser (jet d'eau, jet d'air à navette). On peut ennoblir par un flambage.Cotton, polyester microfibers and microfibers of regenerated cellulose are integrated into a spinning processes such as the yarn obtained meets the weaving and finished product requirements. Next sons the invention can be woven on any type of loom to weave (water jet, shuttle air jet). We can ennoble by a buckling.

Cette opération est utile pour réduire au maximum les risques de boulochage sur le produit fini.This is useful for minimizing risks of pilling on the finished product.

L'aspect du tissu y gagne beaucoup en netteté.The appearance of the fabric gains a lot in sharpness.

La hauteur de la flamme est fixe, le seul réglage possible peut se faire sur la vitesse de passage du tissu sur la flamme. La vitesse est d'environ 100 à 120 m/mm.The flame height is fixed, the only adjustment possible can be done on the speed of passage of the fabric on the flame. The speed is about 100 to 120 m / mm.

On peut ensuite effectuer un lavage et un blanchiment sur autoclave.You can then wash and bleaching in autoclave.

Le tissu peut passer ensuite dans un autoclave pour subir différents traitements :The fabric can then pass through an autoclave to undergo different treatments:

1ère étape :1st step :

Lavage dans une solution de mouillant, qui rend le produit hydrophile et permet une imprégnation au coeur des fibres, à 1 cc/l pendant 30 mn à 50°C,Wash in a wetting solution, which makes the hydrophilic product and allows impregnation in the heart of fibers, at 1 cc / l for 30 min at 50 ° C,

2ème étape :2nd step: Rinçage à froidCold rinse 3ème étape :3rd step:

Le blanchiment alcalin à l'eau oxygénée est utile pour détruire les colorations jaunâtres du coton avec un effet de débouillissage qui va compléter l'élimination des impuretés résiduelles.Alkaline bleaching with hydrogen peroxide is useful to destroy the yellowish color of cotton with a scouring effect which will complete the elimination of residual impurities.

La partie polyester une fois dégraissée a une couleur plus claire que celle du coton. Le blanchiment à l'eau oxygénée va également éliminer les tâches grisâtres laissées par les salissures et les opérations de filature et de tissage.The polyester part once degreased has a lighter color than cotton. Money laundering hydrogen peroxide will also remove grayish stains left by soiling and spinning operations and weaving.

Le bain de blanchiment contient par exemple :

  • 1 à 2 % en poids d'eau oxygénée pour blanchir,
  • 1 à 2 % en poids de soude pour solubiliser les graisses contenues dans le mélange et purifier les fibres,
  • 1 à 3 % de stabilisateurs et de séquestrants pour neutraliser les impuretés à effet catalytique (les métaux lourds) qui risquent de décomposer trop rapidement l'eau oxygéné et empêcher l'opération de blanchiment.
The bleaching bath contains for example:
  • 1 to 2% by weight of hydrogen peroxide for bleaching,
  • 1 to 2% by weight of soda to dissolve the fats contained in the mixture and purify the fibers,
  • 1 to 3% of stabilizers and sequestrants to neutralize impurities with catalytic effect (heavy metals) which may break down hydrogen peroxide too quickly and prevent the bleaching operation.

Le tissu est blanchi à une température supérieure ou égale à 70°C.The fabric is bleached at a higher temperature or equal to 70 ° C.

4ème étape :4th step:

Rinçage pour éliminer le reste d'eau oxygéné et neutraliser le pH.Rinsing to remove the remainder of hydrogen peroxide and neutralize the pH.

Le tissu peut passer ensuite dans une rame sécheuse thermofixeuse.The fabric can then pass through a dryer train thermofixer.

Cette opération va permettre d'obtenir une stabilité dimensionnelle du tissu. Les compartiments de la rame sont maintenus à 195°C et le tissu est thermofixé pendant environ 20 secondes. La laize voulue est obtenue par deux chaínes garnies de pinces réglées exactement à la largeur désirée qui tendent symétriquement et simultanément le tissu de part et d'autre du centre. Par exemple, pour une laize finie de 240 cm, les pinces sont réglées à 243 cm.This operation will make it possible to obtain a dimensional stability of the fabric. The compartments of the oars are maintained at 195 ° C and the fabric is heat-fixed for about 20 seconds. The desired width is obtained by two chains trimmed with clips adjusted exactly to the desired width which tend symmetrically and simultaneously the fabric on either side of the center. For example, for a finished width of 240 cm, the darts are adjusted to 243 cm.

Cette opération de surséchage à une température comprise entre 180°C et 200°C, par exemple à 195°C, est nécessaire pour ramollir superficiellement la partie polyester et éliminer toutes les tensions internes accumulées au cours des opérations de filature et de tissage. Après refroidissement le tissu aura toujours tendance à revenir à sa position de fixation d'où les propriétés d'infroissabilité et de stabilité exceptionnelle des mélanges à base de polyester.This overdrying operation at a temperature between 180 ° C and 200 ° C, for example at 195 ° C, is necessary to soften the part superficially polyester and eliminate all internal tensions during spinning and weaving operations. After cooling the fabric will always tend to return to its fixing position hence the wrinkle-resistant properties and exceptional stability of mixtures based on polyester.

Il faut que cette fixation se fasse sans défaut sinon le défaut sera fixé également.This fixing must be done without defect otherwise the fault will also be fixed.

Les tissus en microfibres de polyester peuvent être soumis à une thermofixation qui permet de fixer le retrait et d'éviter l'étape du Sanforisage.Polyester microfiber fabrics can be subjected to a thermofixation which makes it possible to fix the shrinkage and avoid the Sanforizing step.

D'autre part, le comportement traction/allongement des microfibres de viscose est parfaitement adapté aux autres constituants du mélange, c'est-à-dire le polyester et le coton.On the other hand, the traction / elongation behavior viscose microfibers is perfectly suited to others constituents of the mixture, i.e. polyester and cotton.

On peut ne teindre que le polyester pour obtenir un effet chiné. Pour cela on utilise un procédé discontinu et par épuisement.We can dye only polyester to get a mottled effect. For this we use a discontinuous process and by exhaustion.

Voici les étapes principales :

  • 1.Dissolution ou dispersion du colorant : les colorants dispersés ont une très bonne solidité, ils sont plastosolubles et ne pénètrent à l'intérieur des fibres que grâce à la température. Pour cela, il faut atteindre une température de 130°C à environ 2 bar pendant 2 heures et demi/3 heures.
  • 2.Gonflement de la fibre qui autorise donc la pénétration.
  • 3.Adsorption du colorant qui passe du bain à la surface de la fibre.
  • 4.Diffusion dans la fibre,k
  • 5. Migration vers les endroits moins concentrés,
  • 6.Fixation par apport d'énergie thermique (chauffage).
    • Here are the main steps:
  • 1.Dissolution or dispersion of the dye: the disperse dyes have a very good solidity, they are plastosoluble and penetrate inside the fibers only thanks to the temperature. For this, it is necessary to reach a temperature of 130 ° C at around 2 bar for 2.5 hours / 3 hours.
  • 2. Swelling of the fiber which therefore allows penetration.
  • 3.Adsorption of the dye which passes from the bath to the surface of the fiber.
  • 4.Diffusion in the fiber, k
  • 5. Migration to less concentrated places,
  • 6.Fixing by thermal energy input (heating).

    • Le tissu va maintenant être séché puis apprêté par passage sur rame. Il sort de l'autoclave à l'état mouillé. Le tissu passe dans un foulard contenant de l'eau et des produits chimiques de finition puis il est exprimé. Le passage sur rame est donc utile pour régulariser le taux d'humidité dans le tissu et lui incorporer les produits nécessaires pour conférer au tissu les caractéristiques finales désirées.The fabric will now be dried and then finished with passage on oar. It leaves the autoclave in the wet state. The cloth is passed through a scarf containing water and finishing chemicals then it is expressed. The rowing is therefore useful for regularizing the rate of moisture in the fabric and incorporate the products necessary to give the fabric the characteristics desired endings.

    La solution utilisée peut être composée des produits suivants :

    • Une microémulsion de silicone qui permet d'obtenir un aspect soyeux, un toucher très doux, concentration entre 5 et 15 g/l.
    • Du polyéthylène qui adoucit et aide le travail en confection (il évite l'échauffement des aiguilles qui peuvent brûler le polyester), concentration entre 20 et 30 g/l,
    • Du polyuréthanne qui améliore la défroissabilité en entourant les fibres du tissu, concentration entre 15 et 25 g/l.
    The solution used can consist of the following products:
    • A silicone microemulsion which allows to obtain a silky appearance, a very soft touch, concentration between 5 and 15 g / l.
    • Polyethylene which softens and helps the work in confection (it avoids the heating of the needles which can burn polyester), concentration between 20 and 30 g / l,
    • Polyurethane which improves wrinkling by surrounding the fibers of the fabric, concentration between 15 and 25 g / l.

    D'autre part, contrairement aux articles en coton, les articles suivant l'invention ne présentent qu'une faible perte de résistance compte tenu des tensions exercées au cours des traitements préliminaires et les effets des apprêts sont meilleurs en comparaison avec la viscose.On the other hand, unlike cotton items, the articles according to the invention have only a slight loss of resistance taking into account the tensions exerted course of preliminary treatments and effects of primers are better in comparison with viscose.

    Exemple :Example: Comparaison entre un article suivant l'invention et un support 100 % coton :Comparison between an article according to the invention and a 100% cotton support:

    On a formé une armure toile, de contexture 31 fils/cm en chaíne, 26 duites/cm de 122 g/m2, en mélange 40 % micromodal (microfibres de cellulose régénérée fournies par Lenzing), 40 % de Filifine (microfibres de polyester fournies par TERGAL FIBRES de RHONE POULENC) et 20 % de coton peigné, d'autre part, une armure toile en 100 % coton cardé de 110 g/m2 et de contexture 31/26, enfin un polyester (50 %) coton cardé (50 %), contexture 31/26, poids 114 g/m2, qui correspondent aux produits les plus répandus sur le marché. A web weave was formed, with a texture of 31 threads / cm of warp, 26 picks / cm of 122 g / m 2 , in a mixture of 40% micromodal (microfibers of regenerated cellulose supplied by Lenzing), 40% of Filifine (microfibers of polyester supplied by TERGAL FIBERS of RHONE POULENC) and 20% combed cotton, on the other hand, a plain weave in 100% carded cotton of 110 g / m 2 and of texture 31/26, finally a polyester (50%) carded cotton (50%), texture 31/26, weight 114 g / m 2 , which correspond to the most widespread products on the market.

    Les résultats sont consignés dans le tableau ci-après: Tests Unité 100 % coton cardé Polycoton (50 % coton cardé/50 % pes) 40 % Micromodal/40 % Micrope/20 % coton peigné) Norme Méthode Appareil utilisé Poids g/m2 110 114 122 DIN/EN 12127 DIN/EN A la main Contexture CH/TR /dm 312/258 314/258 316/264 DIN/EN 1049/2 DIN/EN A la main Résistance à la déchirure, allongement CH/TR daN 41/34 48.8/40.6 69/53 DIN 53857/1 DIN/EN Zwick Résistance à la déchirure, allongement CH/TR % 5.8/10.2 8.9/12.3 13.3/15.2 DIN 53857/1 DIN/EN Zwick Angle de froissement CH/TR Degré
    Après 0,5 mn
    Après 5 mn
    Après 30 mn
    58/57
    67/66
    75/72
    86/95
    99/104
    107/109
    89/89
    105/116
    114/122     DIN 53890 DIN/EN Karl Schrôder/ Weinheim     Pilling martindale Note
    Après 125 cycles
    Après 500 cycles
    Après 2000 cycles
    4
    3-4
    3-4
    4-5
    2-3
    1-2
    4-5
    4
    3-4     SNV 198525 SNV/Empa Martindal/ Heal     Comportement au lavage, stabilité dimensionnelle %
    après 1 lavage
    après 3 lavages
    après 5 lavages
    après 10 lavages
    -5.3/-7.7
    -6.9/-7.7
    -7.9/-7.7
    -8.9/-8.1
    -3.0/-3.4
    +4.0/-4.6
    -4.8/-5.2
    -5.4/-5.8
    -4.6/-5.3
    -5.6/-6.9
    -5.9/-8.3
    -6.3/-8.3     DIN/EN 26330 DIN/EN Electrolux 26330     Echelle des gris Note 3-4 4 2 DIN/EN 20105-A02 DIN/EN Beuth-Vertrieb Image de Monsanto (froissabilité) Note 1 3 3 DIN 53895 DIN/EN Méthode AATC     The results are shown in the table below: Tests Unit 100% carded cotton Polycotton (50% carded cotton / 50% pes) 40% Micromodal / 40% Micrope / 20% combed cotton) Standard Method Device used Weight g / m 2 110 114 122 DIN / EN 12127 DIN / EN By hand CH / TR context / dm 312/258 314/258 316/264 DIN / EN 1049/2 DIN / EN By hand Tear resistance, elongation CH / TR daN 41/34 48.8 / 40.6 69/53 DIN 53857/1 DIN / EN Zwick Tear resistance, elongation CH / TR % 5.8 / 10.2 8.9 / 12.3 13.3 / 15.2 DIN 53857/1 DIN / EN Zwick Crumple angle CH / TR Degree
    After 0.5 min
    After 5 mins
    After 30 mins
    58/57
    67/66
    75/72
    86/95
    99/104
    107/109
    89/89
    105/116
    114/122     DIN 53890 DIN / EN Karl Schrôder / Weinheim     Martindale pilling Note
    After 125 cycles
    After 500 cycles
    After 2000 cycles
    4
    3-4
    3-4
    4-5
    2-3
    1-2
    4-5
    4
    3-4     SNV 198525 SNV / Empa Martindal / Heal     Washing behavior, dimensional stability %
    after 1 wash
    after 3 washes
    after 5 washes
    after 10 washes
    -5.3 / -7.7
    -6.9 / -7.7
    -7.9 / -7.7
    -8.9 / -8.1
    -3.0 / -3.4
    + 4.0 / -4.6
    -4.8 / -5.2
    -5.4 / -5.8
    -4.6 / -5.3
    -5.6 / -6.9
    -5.9 / -8.3
    -6.3 / -8.3     DIN / EN 26330 DIN / EN Electrolux 26330     Gray scale Note 3-4 4 2 DIN / EN 20105-A02 DIN / EN Beuth-Vertrieb Monsanto image (crumplability) Note 1 3 3 DIN 53895 DIN / EN AATC method

    Interprétation des résultats :Results interpretation : - Résistance à la déchirure :- Tear resistance:

    Sur l'article suivant l'invention constitué d'un mélange de 40 % de micromodal de 40 % de micropolyester et de 20 % de coton peigné, on obtient des valeurs plus élevées de résistance à la déchirure, ces valeurs indiquent la force à exercer sur l'éprouvette pour déchirer le tissu. Plus cette valeur est grande, plus le tissu résiste à la déchirure. L'allongement en pourcentage est le rapport entre la taille initiale de l'éprouvette et la taille finale de l'éprouvette avant la rupture. Par conséquent, l'article suivant l'invention résiste davantage à la déchirure que le tissu en 100 % coton et que le polycoton, ce qui implique une probabilité de durée de vie plus grande.On the following article, the invention consisting of mixture of 40% micromodal, 40% micropolyester and 20% combed cotton, higher values of tear strength, these values indicate the strength at exercise on the test tube to tear the tissue. More this the greater the value, the more the fabric resists tearing. The percentage elongation is the ratio between the size initial specimen and final specimen size before the break. Therefore, the following article the invention is more resistant to tearing than the fabric 100% cotton and that polycotton, which implies a higher lifetime probability.

    - Le test Pilling Martindale :- The Pilling Martindale test:

    Des échantillons suivant l'invention ont subi des tests pour simuler un boulochage éventuel qui peut apparaítre dans la vie courante. Après un certain nombre de cycles, les éprouvettes sont superposées sur des images types auxquelles une note est attribuée (note allant de 1 à 5, 5 étant l'état où aucune bouloche n'apparaít, 1 un boulochage très intense). L'article suivant l'invention bouloche moins que le tissu en 100 % coton et que le polycoton.Samples according to the invention have undergone tests to simulate a possible pilling that may appear in everyday life. After a number of cycles, the test tubes are superimposed on standard images to which a score is assigned (score ranging from 1 to 5, 5 being the state where no pilling appears, 1 a very intense pilling). The article according to the invention pills less than fabric 100% cotton and polycotton.

    Pour réduire la formation de poils et pour obtenir un aspect de tissu net, les articles peuvent être soumis à un flambage et apprêtés avec une résine adéquate. Ceci permet d'éviter fortement la formation de boulochage indésirable pendant la transformation ou à l'usage.To reduce hair formation and to obtain a clean fabric appearance, items may be subject to singeing and primed with a suitable resin. this allows strongly avoid the formation of unwanted pilling during processing or use.

    - Le comportement au lavage, la stabilité dimensionnelle :- Washing behavior, stability dimensional:

    La stabilité dimensionnelle de l'article suivant l'invention obtenue après 10 lavages est nettement meilleure que celle d'un article en coton. Les fibres cellulosiques et en particulier les types de fibres régénérées absorbent des quantités d'eau relativement élevées et gonflent donc plus ou moins.The dimensional stability of the following article the invention obtained after 10 washes is much better than that of a cotton item. Cellulosic fibers and in particular the types of regenerated fibers absorb relatively large amounts of water and therefore swell more or less.

    Les microfibres de viscose se distinguent des fibres de viscose, par des résistances bien plus élevées, par une capacité d'absorption d'eau plus faible et un gonflement moindre. Lors du passage en rame où l'on apprête le tissu puis on le sèche, les microfibres permettent de corriger les problèmes liés au retrait. En effet, le tissu gonfle moins, ce qui diminue considérablement les tensions internes dans le tissu. Pendant le séchage, on élimine ces gonflements, on relâche les tensions (plus faibles qu'avec d'autres supports) et la matière textile se rétracte beaucoup moins.Viscose microfibers differ from viscose fibers, by much higher resistances, by lower water absorption capacity and swelling lesser. When passing through the oar where we are preparing the fabric then it is dried, the microfibers make it possible to correct the withdrawal issues. Indeed, the tissue swells less, which considerably reduces the internal tensions in the tissue. During drying, these swellings are eliminated, releases tension (lower than with other supports) and the textile material shrinks much less.

    - L'image de Monsanto (test de froissabilité)- Monsanto's image (wrinkle test)

    Sur le même principe que le test du pilling, l'échantillon "froissé" est comparé à 5 images représentatives d'un certain degré de froissabilité, une note allant de 1 à 5 est alors attribuée (la cotation 5 correspond à l'aspect le plus lisse, la cotation 1 à l'aspect le plus froissé).On the same principle as the pilling test, the "crumpled" sample is compared to 5 images representative of a certain degree of wrinkle, a note going from 1 to 5 is then assigned (the rating 5 corresponds with the smoothest appearance, rating 1 with the most smooth appearance crumpled).

    Ce mélange apporte des résultats remarquables au test de Monsanto par rapport au coton. Ce test montre que le tissu fini a d'excellentes propriétés de défroissabilité donc une très bonne repassabilité, propriété très recherchée dans la vie courante.This mixture brings remarkable results to Monsanto test against cotton. This test shows that the finished fabric has excellent wrinkle resistance properties very good ironability, a property much sought after in everyday.

    - Le toucher, le tomber, l'éclat :- Touch, drop, shine:

    Comme pour tous les textiles en fibres cellulosiques, les meilleurs résultats toucher/tomber/éclat sont obtenus lorsque tous les procédés au mouillé se déroulent à des niveaux très faibles d'effort de traction et de pression.As with all fiber textiles cellulosic, the best touch / fall / shine results are obtained when all wet processes take place at very low levels of tractive effort and pressure.

    Ceci s'applique aussi à l'article suivant l'invention qui reste toutefois bien moins sensible à tous ces efforts.This also applies to the following article the invention which remains however much less sensitive to all these efforts.

    Les fils ont une bonne régularité, un brillant prononcé, un caractère très doux et confère un toucher et un plombant inimitables aux tissus chaíne et trame.The threads have good regularity, a shine pronounced, a very soft character and gives a touch and a lead inimitable to warp and weft fabrics.

    Claims (9)

    Article textile constitué de fibres de cellulose, de fibres de polyester ou d'un mélange de fibres de cellulose et de fibres de polyester, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre des fibres de cellulose régénérée, les fibres de cellulose régénérée étant sous la forme de microfibres ayant un titre inférieur ou égal à 1 dTex.Textile article made of fibers of cellulose, polyester fiber or a mixture of fibers cellulose and polyester fibers, characterized in that it also comprises regenerated cellulose fibers, the regenerated cellulose fibers being in the form of microfibers with a titer less than or equal to 1 dTex. Article textile constitué de fibres de cellulose ou d'un mélange de fibres de cellulose et de fibres de polyester, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre des fibres de cellulose régénérée.Textile article made of cellulose fibers or a mixture of cellulose fibers and polyester, characterized in that it further comprises regenerated cellulose fibers. Article suivant la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend de 10 à 50 % en poids de fibres de cellulose régénérée.Article according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises from 10 to 50% by weight of regenerated cellulose fibers. Article suivant la revendication 1, 2 ou 3, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend moins de 45 % en poids de fibres de cellulose régénérée.Article according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that it comprises less than 45% by weight of regenerated cellulose fibers. Article suivant l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que les fibres de cellulose régénérée sont en modal ou en lyocell.Article according to one of the claims above, characterized in that the cellulose fibers regenerated are in modal or lyocell. Article suivant l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que les fibres de polyester sont des microfibres ayant un titre inférieur ou égal à 1 dTex.Article according to one of the claims previous, characterized in that the polyester fibers are microfibers with a titer less than or equal to 1 dTex. Article suivant l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte de 10 à 50 % en poids de fibres de cellulose régénérée, de 10 à 50 % en poids de fibres de cellulose notamment de coton et de 10 à 50 % en poids de fibres de polyester, la somme des trois constituants étant égale à 100 %.Article according to one of the claims above, characterized in that it comprises from 10 to 50% in weight of regenerated cellulose fibers, from 10 to 50% by weight cellulose fibers including cotton and 10 to 50% by weight of polyester fibers, the sum of the three constituents being equal to 100%. Article suivant l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en qu'il est sous la forme d'un tissu ou d'un fil.Article according to one of the claims previous, characterized in that it is in the form of a fabric or thread. Procédé de fabrication d'un article suivant l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à tisser à des fibres de cellulose, des fibres de polyester ou un mélange de fibres de cellulose et de fibres de polyester de préférence de microfibres de polyester, et des fibres de cellulose régénérée, de préférence des microfibres de cellulose régénérée, et de préférence de microfibres de polyester et à faire subir au tissu une thermofixation à une température suffisante pour ramollir superficiellement les fibres de polyester.Method of making a next article one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it consists of weaving cellulose fibers, polyester or a mixture of cellulose fibers and fibers polyester, preferably polyester microfibers, and regenerated cellulose fibers, preferably microfibers of regenerated cellulose, and preferably polyester microfibers and subjecting the fabric to a heat setting at a temperature sufficient to soften superficially polyester fibers.
    EP00402474A 1999-09-13 2000-09-08 Textile article comprising regenerated cellulose Withdrawn EP1085113A3 (en)

    Applications Claiming Priority (4)

    Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
    FR9911436A FR2798399A1 (en) 1999-09-13 1999-09-13 Textile material, e.g. for production of domestic fabrics and clothing, consists of cellulose fibres and-or polyester fibres plus regenerated cellulose in the form of micro-fibres
    FR9911436 1999-09-13
    FR9914438A FR2798400B1 (en) 1999-09-13 1999-11-17 TEXTILE ARTICLE COMPRISING REGENERATED CELLULOSE. (II)
    FR9914438 1999-11-17

    Publications (2)

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    EP1085113A2 true EP1085113A2 (en) 2001-03-21
    EP1085113A3 EP1085113A3 (en) 2004-12-08

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    EP00402474A Withdrawn EP1085113A3 (en) 1999-09-13 2000-09-08 Textile article comprising regenerated cellulose

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    FR (1) FR2798400B1 (en)

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    FR2842077A1 (en) * 2002-07-12 2004-01-16 Proline Textile REINFORCEMENT TEXTILE COMPRISING A WIRE ARRAY
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    CN100432308C (en) * 2002-09-05 2008-11-12 上海第十七棉纺织总厂 Blended yarm among cotton, modat and wool as well as processing procedure
    AT506268B1 (en) * 2008-01-11 2014-08-15 Chemiefaser Lenzing Ag MICROFIBRE
    US11932969B2 (en) 2008-01-11 2024-03-19 Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft Microfiber
    WO2010071910A3 (en) * 2008-12-23 2010-08-19 Lenzing Ag Yarns and threads from a blend of cotton and lyocell and articles therefrom
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    CN105624862A (en) * 2014-10-28 2016-06-01 江阴芗菲服饰有限公司 Anti-bacteria semi-worsted yarns for health care underwear and spinning technology thereof
    CN104726987A (en) * 2015-04-13 2015-06-24 百鑫（中国）有限公司 Production method of knitted polyester yarn
    EP3296437A3 (en) * 2016-09-16 2018-07-18 Welspun India Ltd Performance fabrics and related articles

    Also Published As

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    FR2798400A1 (en) 2001-03-16
    EP1085113A3 (en) 2004-12-08

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