EP0909847B1 - Reversible knitwear presenting weft knitted stitches and method for its manufacture - Google Patents

Reversible knitwear presenting weft knitted stitches and method for its manufacture Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0909847B1
EP0909847B1 EP98420152A EP98420152A EP0909847B1 EP 0909847 B1 EP0909847 B1 EP 0909847B1 EP 98420152 A EP98420152 A EP 98420152A EP 98420152 A EP98420152 A EP 98420152A EP 0909847 B1 EP0909847 B1 EP 0909847B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
rows
row
stitches
knitted fabric
yarns
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
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EP98420152A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0909847A1 (en
Inventor
Hervé Perrin
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Sicat Industrielle De Creations Et D'applications Textiles Ste
S I C A T SOC IND DE CREATIONS
SICAT Societe Industrielle de Creations et d'Applications Textiles SARL
Textiles et Plastiques Chomarat SA
Original Assignee
Sicat Industrielle De Creations Et D'applications Textiles Ste
S I C A T SOC IND DE CREATIONS
SICAT Societe Industrielle de Creations et d'Applications Textiles SARL
Textiles et Plastiques Chomarat SA
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Publication of EP0909847A1 publication Critical patent/EP0909847A1/en
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Publication of EP0909847B1 publication Critical patent/EP0909847B1/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/126—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B15/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, weft knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B15/66—Devices for determining or controlling patterns ; Programme-control arrangements
    • D04B15/80—Devices for determining or controlling patterns ; Programme-control arrangements characterised by the thread guides used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114—Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2505/00—Industrial
    • D10B2505/08—Upholstery, mattresses

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a new type of reversible knitted fabric picked, made on a multi-drop circular loom, and both sides of which can constitute the appearance faces during the final use of said knitted fabric.
  • the knits are therefore made on the basis of Jersey type armor, that is to say either on simple needle bed trades, either by using only the cylinder or the double needle bed tray.
  • the two faces of the knit can either have a plain appearance, but in different colors, or include decorative patterns similar to Jacquard-type patterns, the design ratio being equal or a submultiple of the total number of falls in the production profession.
  • the knitting according to the invention can also be carried out on a real Jacquard loom, preferably double needle bed, a single needle bed being work namely either the cylinder or the plate.
  • the drawing report can be any.
  • Periodic reversal of the positioning of the wire can be done either row of plain to row "Dive", or along the same row "Dive".
  • the knitted fabric according to the invention is made with “Petit Piqué” type armor, the ratio of which is therefore four rows, each row consisting of two different wires.
  • the invention also relates to a method for obtaining such knitwear, said process consisting in knitting on a circular multi-drop loom, preferably double needle bed, possibly equipped with Jacquard systems, said method being characterized in that a succession of rows of plain knitwear (Jersey) separated from each other by a row in which we loads on one or two consecutive hands, at a rate predetermined function of the drawing to be made, at least some of the rows comprising charged stitches being produced from two different threads supplied to the needles via a thrower distributing the two wires in the same plane, but at a different angle to the knitting plane, these two threads being delivered positively to the needles under different voltages.
  • plain knitwear Jacquard
  • thread B appears on the face of the knit while thread A appears on backwards.
  • rows (2) and (4) the positioning of two threads are reversed, thread B appearing on the reverse side of the knitted fabric, thread A appearing on the knitting side.
  • the two wires (A, B) are delivered to the needles (N) via a jet (J) designed so that they are distributed in the same plane vertical, but at a different angle to the plane of knitting.
  • the wires (A, B) are also supplied by means of a deliverer positive and this, so that the wire (A) is delivered with a tension slightly lower than that of the wire (B).
  • the tension difference between the two wires will depend on the nature of these and their title. A deviation of the order of a few grams generally suitable in most cases.
  • Figures 4, 5 and 6 illustrate a knit produced in accordance with the invention and which includes patterns which are repeated regularly over its height and its width.
  • Figure 4 is the conventional graphical representation of a cycle of knitting to make an elementary pattern, each horizontal line of squares representing a row of meshes, each column of squares a column of sts.
  • the blackened squares represent a charged mesh while the white squares represent a normal mesh.
  • the armor ratio is therefore 36 rows for 18 columns (or needles).
  • Such knitting is carried out on a circular multi-drop machine, double bed, comprising 36 scraps and 18 gauge (18 needles in 25.4 mm).
  • the diameter is 30 inches (76.2 cm) and knitting is done only on the cylinder needles.
  • Figure 5 shows how the needles work for the eighteen first drops of the armor ratio which, as said before, in have 36, which therefore corresponds to half the height of the ratio of patterns in Figure 6.
  • two different wires are supplied on each drop and, four different types of thread are used, namely two threads (A, B) to form the “Uni” rows and two wires (C, D) to form the rows “Piqué Jacquard", the rows of Jersey being formed at odd falls and the “Pique Jacquard” rows with even falls.
  • wires are supplied with a tension of 12 g for wire (A) and wire (C) and a voltage of 6 and 9 g respectively for the wires (B) and (D).
  • the wires are fed through throwers (J) as illustrated in Figures 2 and 3.
  • FIGS 7,8,9 illustrate other types of achievable patterns according to the invention.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Peptides Or Proteins (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The reversible knitted fabric, with tuck float stitches, uses a pique fabric structure where the rows of stitches are formed by a single needle bed. The knitting cycle gives a succession of plain rows (1,3) where all the needles form stitches, followed by stitch rows (2,4) where the stitches and yarns are alternated. The alternating rows use two yarns (A,B) to be knitted together and their positions are alternated, to give visual effects on both sides of the fabric. In an Independent claim a succession of Jersey rows (1,3) are separated by rows (1,2) where the yarns are fed to one or two needles consecutively. The knitting rhythm is set as a pattern function where certain stitch rows use different yarns (A,B) fed by a yarn change unit to distribute the yarns (A,B) on the same plane, but at a different angle in relation to the fabric plane. The yarns are given a positive feed to their needles through different tensions. Preferred Features: The yarn (A,B) position is inverted at intervals to give one plain row at a pique row, along the same pique row. When giving a small pique fabric structure, the repeat is in four rows, where each row is of stitches with two different yarns. In each pique row, the zones are separated from each other by a set number of Jersey stitches.

Description

La présente invention a trait à un nouveau type de tricot réversible à mailles cueillies, réalisé sur un métier circulaire multichutes, et dont les deux faces peuvent constituer les faces d'aspect lors de l'utilisation finale dudit tricot.The present invention relates to a new type of reversible knitted fabric picked, made on a multi-drop circular loom, and both sides of which can constitute the appearance faces during the final use of said knitted fabric.

Elle a trait plus particulièrement à un nouveau type de tricot dit « sans envers » qui non seulement peut présenter un aspect uni, mais également comporter des motifs décoratifs sur ses deux faces, utilisable notamment dans le domaine de l'automobile, de l'ameublement..., pour réaliser des structures complexes comprenant essentiellement un revêtement de surface, tricot notamment, associé à une couche de mousse revêtue éventuellement sur son autre face d'une seconde structure textile ou autre couche d'envers, film par exemple.It relates more particularly to a new type of knitting known as "without upside down "which not only can present a united aspect, but also include decorative patterns on both sides, usable in particular in the field of automotive, furniture ..., to produce complex structures essentially comprising a surface coating, knitting in particular, associated with a layer of foam optionally coated on its other face with a second textile structure or other backing layer, film for example.

A ce jour, pour réaliser des tricots sans envers, unis ou comportant des motifs obtenus soit par la combinaison d'armures ou sur de véritables métiers Jacquard, il est impératif d'utiliser des métiers double fonture.To date, to make knitwear without reverse, plain or with patterns obtained either by the combination of armor or on real looms Jacquard, it is imperative to use double needle looms.

Les articles produits sur ce type de métier présentent cependant comme inconvénient de conduire à des articles finis qui, pour une contexture et une matière première équivalente, ont un poids nettement supérieur aux tricots réalisés sur une seule fonture d'aiguille, ce qui conduit donc à un coût de production nettement plus élevé.The articles produced on this type of trade, however, present as disadvantage of leading to finished articles which, for a texture and a equivalent raw material, have a weight significantly greater than the knitted fabric on a single needle bed, which therefore leads to a production cost significantly higher.

Dans de nombreux domaines, ce surcoût est sans importance compte tenu de la qualité que permet d'obtenir un métier double fonture.In many areas, this additional cost is immaterial given the quality that a double needle bed provides.

En revanche, pour un certain nombre d'articles de grande diffusion ou lorsque l'on souhaite associer le tricot à un support, couche de mousse par exemple, ce surcoût est parfois rédhibitoire.On the other hand, for a certain number of articles of general circulation or when you want to combine knitting with a support, foam layer by example, this additional cost is sometimes prohibitive.

Pour ce type de produits, et pour diminuer le coût de matières premières, les tricots sont donc réalisés sur la base d'armures de type Jersey, c'est-à-dire soit sur des métiers simple fonture, soit en ne mettant en oeuvre que le cylindre ou le plateau de métiers double fonture. For this type of product, and to reduce the cost of raw materials, the knits are therefore made on the basis of Jersey type armor, that is to say either on simple needle bed trades, either by using only the cylinder or the double needle bed tray.

Cependant, dans un tel cas, seule la face endroit du tricot peut être utilisée comme surface d'aspect visible car, à l'envers, notamment lorsqu'on réalise un tricot à effets, par combinaison d'armures ou dispositif Jacquard, la face envers comporte en général des flottés, ce qui la rend impropre à constituer la face apparente lors de l'utilisation finale du tricot.However, in such a case, only the right side of the knit can be used. as a visible surface because, upside down, especially when making a knit effect, by combination of weaves or Jacquard device, the wrong side generally contains floats, which makes it unsuitable to constitute the face visible during the final use of knitting.

Or on a trouvé, et c'est ce qui fait l'objet de la présente invention, un nouveau type de tricot réversible, à mailles cueillies, réalisé sur un métier circulaire multi-chutes, dont le poids de matière entrant dans sa constitution est nettement inférieur aux tricots double face réalisés sur des métiers double fonture, les deux faces du tricot ayant un aspect différent l'une de l'autre, ce qui, notamment lorsque l'article est destiné à être associée à un support, permet de doubler le nombre d'articles d'une collection.Now we have found, and this is what is the subject of the present invention, a new type of reversible knit, with picked stitches, made on a circular loom multi-falls, whose weight of matter entering into its constitution is clearly lower than double-sided knits made on double needle looms, both faces of the knit having a different appearance from each other, which, in particular when the article is intended to be associated with a support, allows to double the number items from a collection.

Dans une forme simple de réalisation, les deux faces du tricot peuvent soit avoir un aspect uni, mais de coloris différents, soit comporter des motifs décoratifs similaires à des motifs de type Jacquard, le rapport du dessin étant égal ou un sous-multiple du nombre total de chutes du métier de production.In a simple embodiment, the two faces of the knit can either have a plain appearance, but in different colors, or include decorative patterns similar to Jacquard-type patterns, the design ratio being equal or a submultiple of the total number of falls in the production profession.

Le tricot conforme à l'invention peut également être réalisé sur un véritable métier Jacquard, de préférence double fonture, une seule fonture étant mise en oeuvre à savoir soit le cylindre, soit le plateau. Dans un tel cas, le rapport du dessin peut être quelconque.The knitting according to the invention can also be carried out on a real Jacquard loom, preferably double needle bed, a single needle bed being work namely either the cylinder or the plate. In such a case, the drawing report can be any.

D'une manière générale, l'invention concerne donc un nouveau type de tricot réversible à mailles cueillies, réalisé sur un métier circulaire multi-chutes, et dont les deux faces peuvent constituer les faces d'aspect lors de l'utilisation finale dudit tricot, et il se caractérise en ce que :

  • il est réalisé sur la base d'une armure de type « Piqué », c'est-à-dire un tricot dans lequel les rangées de mailles sont formées sur une seule fonture d'aiguilles, le cycle de tricotage étant tel que l'on forme successivement une rangée d'uni, c'est-à-dire une rangée dans laquelle toutes les aiguilles forment des mailles, suivie d'une rangée dans laquelle on retrouve une alternance de mailles et de charges ;
  • au moins les rangées comportant les charges, rangées dites « Piqué » sont constituées de deux fils tricotés simultanément, le positionnement desdits fils dans le tricot étant tel que l'un apparaisse sur la face endroit, l'autre sur la face envers, ce positionnement s'inversant périodiquement.
In general, the invention therefore relates to a new type of reversible knitted knitted fabric, produced on a circular multi-drop loom, the two faces of which can constitute the appearance faces during the final use of said knitted fabric. , and it is characterized in that:
  • it is made on the basis of a “Pique” type weave, that is to say a knitted fabric in which the rows of stitches are formed on a single needle bed, the knitting cycle being such that the a row of solid is successively formed, that is to say a row in which all the needles form stitches, followed by a row in which there is an alternation of stitches and charges;
  • at least the rows comprising the fillers, so-called "stitched" rows consist of two yarns knitted simultaneously, the positioning of said yarns in knitting being such that one appears on the right side, the other on the wrong side, this positioning reversing periodically.

L'inversion périodique du positionnement du fil peut se faire soit d'une rangée d'uni à la rangée « Piqué », soit le long d'une même rangée « Piqué ».Periodic reversal of the positioning of the wire can be done either row of plain to row "Dive", or along the same row "Dive".

Dans la suite de la description, le terme « Uni » sera utilisé pour désigner les rangées dans lesquelles toutes les aiguilles forment des mailles et le terme « Piqué » sera utilisé pour désigner les rangées dans lesquelles certaines aiguilles sont en charge.In the following description, the term “Uni” will be used to denote the rows in which all the needles form stitches and the term "Quilted" will be used to designate the rows in which certain needles are in charge.

Dans sa forme de réalisation la plus simple, le tricot conforme à l'invention est réalisé selon une armure de type «Petit Piqué », dont le rapport est donc de quatre rangées, chaque rangée étant constituée de deux fils différents.In its simplest embodiment, the knitted fabric according to the invention is made with “Petit Piqué” type armor, the ratio of which is therefore four rows, each row consisting of two different wires.

Dans un tel type de tricot dans chaque rangée Jersey, l'un des fils apparaít sur l'endroit du tricot, l'autre sur l'envers, tandis que dans les rangées « Piqué », le positionnement des deux fils est inversé.In such a type of knitting in each row Jersey, one of the threads appears on the knitting side, the other on the wrong side, while in the "Pique" rows, the positioning of the two wires is reversed.

Selon une forme de réalisation préférentielle permettant d'obtenir un très grand nombre de motifs, on modifie le nombre et le positionnement des mailles chargées d'une rangée « Piqué» à la suivante, ces mailles chargées étant séparées les unes des autres par un nombre déterminé de mailles Jersey.According to a preferred embodiment making it possible to obtain a very large number of patterns, we modify the number and the positioning of the meshes loaded from one row "Pique" to the next, these loaded stitches being separated from each other by a determined number of Jersey stitches.

Dans la suite de la description, de telles rangées de tricot seront désignées par l'expression « rangée Piqué Jacquard ».In the following description, such rows of knitting will be designated by the expression "row Piqué Jacquard".

Dans un tel cas, le positionnement des deux fils s'inverse automatiquement entre les zones Jersey de la rangée et les zones « Piqué ».In such a case, the positioning of the two wires reverses automatically between the Jersey zones of the row and the "Dive" zones.

Par ailleurs, si en général, dans les zones « Piqué », une maille chargée se trouve disposée entre deux mailles consécutives, il peut éventuellement être envisagé d'avoir deux charges consécutives, mais il s'agit d'un maximum. In addition, if in general, in the "Pique" zones, a charged mesh is is placed between two consecutive meshes, it can possibly be contemplated having two consecutive charges, but this is a maximum.

L'invention concerne également un procédé permettant l'obtention de tels tricots, ledit procédé consistant à réaliser le tricot sur un métier circulaire multi-chutes, de préférence double fonture, éventuellement équipé de systèmes Jacquard, ledit procédé étant caractérisé en ce que l'on réalise une succession de rangées de tricot unies (Jersey) séparées les unes des autres par une rangée dans laquelle on réalise des charges sur une ou deux aiguilles consécutives, et ce selon un rythme prédéterminé fonction du dessin à réaliser, au moins certaines des rangées comportant des mailles chargées étant réalisées à partir de deux fils différents alimentés aux aiguilles par l'intermédiaire d'un jeteur distribuant les deux fils dans un même plan, mais en formant un angle différent par rapport au plan de tricotage, ces deux fils étant délivrés positivement aux aiguilles sous des tensions différentes.The invention also relates to a method for obtaining such knitwear, said process consisting in knitting on a circular multi-drop loom, preferably double needle bed, possibly equipped with Jacquard systems, said method being characterized in that a succession of rows of plain knitwear (Jersey) separated from each other by a row in which we loads on one or two consecutive hands, at a rate predetermined function of the drawing to be made, at least some of the rows comprising charged stitches being produced from two different threads supplied to the needles via a thrower distributing the two wires in the same plane, but at a different angle to the knitting plane, these two threads being delivered positively to the needles under different voltages.

L'invention et les avantages qu'elle apporte sera cependant mieux comprise grâce aux exemples de réalisation donnés ci-après à titre indicatif, mais non limitatif, et qui sont illustrés par les schémas annexés dans lesquels :

  • la figure 1 est une représentation graphique conventionnelle d'un tricot de base réalisé conformément à l'invention ;
  • les figures 2 et 3 sont des vues en élévation et en bout illustrant la manière dont sont présentés simultanément deux fils sur une chute d'un métier pour réaliser un article conforme à l'invention ;
  • les figures 4 et 5 sont les reproductions graphiques d'une part, de la mise en carte, d'autre part, du schéma de mailles d'un tricot sans envers présentant des effets réalisés conformément à l'invention, une reproduction de ce tricot étant illustrée à la figure 6 ;
  • les figures 7,8 et 9 illustrent trois autres formes de motifs d'un tricot réalisé conformément à l'invention.
The invention and the advantages which it brings will however be better understood thanks to the exemplary embodiments given below for information, but not limitation, and which are illustrated by the appended diagrams in which:
  • Figure 1 is a conventional graphical representation of a basic knit produced according to the invention;
  • Figures 2 and 3 are elevational and end views illustrating the manner in which two wires are presented simultaneously on a fall from a loom to produce an article according to the invention;
  • FIGS. 4 and 5 are the graphic reproductions on the one hand, of the mapping, on the other hand, of the stitch diagram of a knitted fabric without reverse having effects produced in accordance with the invention, a reproduction of this knitted fabric being illustrated in Figure 6;
  • Figures 7,8 and 9 illustrate three other forms of patterns of a knitted fabric produced in accordance with the invention.

Dans la forme de réalisation la plus simple illustrée par la figure 1, le tricot conforme à l'invention est réalisé sur un métier circulaire multi-chutes selon une armure « Petit Piqué », c'est-à-dire une contexture formée par cycle de quatre rangées consécutives dans lesquelles :

  • à la première rangée (1), toutes les aiguilles forment des mailles et travaillent donc selon une armure unie ;
  • à la seconde (2), une aiguille sur deux forme des boucles tandis que les autres restent en charge ;
  • la troisième rangée (3) est identiques à la première, c'est-à-dire est unie ;
  • et enfin, dans la quatrième rangée (4), les aiguilles sont sélectionnées également une sur deux en charge, les autres travaillant normalement pour former des mailles, mais étant en quinconce avec la seconde rangée.
In the simplest embodiment illustrated in FIG. 1, the knitting according to the invention is carried out on a circular multi-drop loom according to a “Petit Piqué” weave, that is to say a texture formed by cycle. four consecutive rows in which:
  • in the first row (1), all the needles form stitches and therefore work in plain weave;
  • in the second (2), one needle in two forms loops while the others remain in charge;
  • the third row (3) is identical to the first, that is to say is united;
  • and finally, in the fourth row (4), the needles are also selected one in two under load, the others working normally to form stitches, but being staggered with the second row.

Conformément à l'invention, par rapport au « Petit Piqué » conventionnel, au moins les rangées de type « Piqué » (2) et (4), et dans le cas présent les quatre rangées, sont constituées de deux fils tricotés simultanément référencés (A) et (B).In accordance with the invention, compared with the conventional "Petit Piqué", at least the rows of type "Dive" (2) and (4), and in this case the four rows, consist of two knitted yarns simultaneously referenced (A) and (B).

Conformément à l'invention, dans les parties Jersey, c'est-à-dire les rangées (1) et (3), le fil B apparaít sur l'endroit du tricot alors que le fil A apparaít sur l'envers. Dans les rangées « Piqué », rangées (2) et (4)), le positionnement des deux fils s'inverse, le fil B apparaissant sur l'envers du tricot, le fil A apparaissant sur l'endroit du tricot.According to the invention, in the Jersey parts, that is to say the rows (1) and (3), thread B appears on the face of the knit while thread A appears on backwards. In the "Dive" rows, rows (2) and (4)), the positioning of two threads are reversed, thread B appearing on the reverse side of the knitted fabric, thread A appearing on the knitting side.

Une telle inversion du positionnement est obtenue automatiquement, sans que le Demandeur puisse en expliquer la raison, d'une part par la manière dont les fils sont présentés aux aiguilles sur la machine de tricotage et d'autre part, grâce aux conditions dans lesquelles ils sont délivrés aux aiguilles.Such a reversal of positioning is obtained automatically, without that the Applicant can explain the reason, firstly by the way in which the yarns are presented to the needles on the knitting machine and secondly, thanks under the conditions under which they are delivered to needles.

Tout d'abord, concernant leur distribution, et ainsi que cela ressort des figures 2 et 3, les deux fils (A,B) sont délivrés aux aiguilles (N) par l'intermédiaire d'un jeteur (J) conçu de telle sorte qu'ils soient distribués dans un même plan vertical, mais en formant cependant un angle différent par rapport au plan de tricotage.First of all, regarding their distribution, and as is clear from Figures 2 and 3, the two wires (A, B) are delivered to the needles (N) via a jet (J) designed so that they are distributed in the same plane vertical, but at a different angle to the plane of knitting.

L'alimentation des fils (A,B) se fait par ailleurs au moyen d'un délivreur positif et ce, de telle sorte que le fil (A) soit délivré avec une tension légèrement inférieure à celle du fil (B). L'écart de tension entre les deux fils sera fonction de la nature de ces derniers et de leur titre. Un écart de l'ordre de quelques grammes convient en général dans la plupart des cas.The wires (A, B) are also supplied by means of a deliverer positive and this, so that the wire (A) is delivered with a tension slightly lower than that of the wire (B). The tension difference between the two wires will depend on the nature of these and their title. A deviation of the order of a few grams generally suitable in most cases.

En procédant d'une telle manière, et en ayant sélectionné l'armure pour que certaines rangées comportent des mailles chargées, on obtient, au niveau des charges, une inversion du positionnement des fils par rapport aux faces du tricot, et donc une possibilité d'avoir des faces d'aspect différents en jouant sur la nature des constituants. By proceeding in such a way, and having selected the armor so that some rows have loaded stitches, we obtain, at the level of loads, an inversion of the positioning of the threads relative to the faces of the knitted fabric, and therefore a possibility of having different aspect faces by playing on the nature of components.

Dans le cas le plus simple, l'aspect général des deux faces est uni, mais lorsqu'on utilise des fils de couleurs différentes, la coloration des deux faces est différente.In the simplest case, the general appearance of the two faces is united, but when using threads of different colors, the coloring of both sides is different.

Les figures 4, 5 et 6 illustrent quant à elles un tricot réalisé conformément à l'invention et qui comporte des motifs qui se répètent régulièrement sur sa hauteur et sa largeur.Figures 4, 5 and 6 illustrate a knit produced in accordance with the invention and which includes patterns which are repeated regularly over its height and its width.

La figure 4 est la représentation graphique conventionnelle d'un cycle de tricotage pour réaliser un motif élémentaire, chaque ligne horizontale de carrésl représentant une rangée de mailles, chaque colonne de carrés une colonne de mailles.Figure 4 is the conventional graphical representation of a cycle of knitting to make an elementary pattern, each horizontal line of squares representing a row of meshes, each column of squares a column of sts.

Les carrés noircis représentent une maille chargée alors que les carrés blancs représentent une maille normale.The blackened squares represent a charged mesh while the white squares represent a normal mesh.

Par ailleurs, dans cette représentation graphique, seules sont représentées les rangées « Piqué », les rangées « Uni » disposées entre chaque rangée n'étant pas représentées.Furthermore, in this graphic representation, only the "Pique" rows, the "Uni" rows arranged between each row not being represented.

Dans un tel type de dessin, le rapport d'armure est donc de 36 rangées pour 18 colonnes (ou aiguilles).In such a design, the armor ratio is therefore 36 rows for 18 columns (or needles).

Un tel tricot est réalisé sur une machine circulaire multi-chutes, double fonture, comprenant 36 chutes et de jauge 18 (18 aiguilles dans 25,4 mm).Such knitting is carried out on a circular multi-drop machine, double bed, comprising 36 scraps and 18 gauge (18 needles in 25.4 mm).

Le diamètre est de 30 pouces (76,2 cm) et le tricotage est réalisé uniquement sur les aiguilles du cylindre.The diameter is 30 inches (76.2 cm) and knitting is done only on the cylinder needles.

La figure 5 montre la manière dont travaillent les aiguilles pour les dix-huit premières chutes du rapport d'armure qui, comme dit précédemment, en comportent 36, ce qui correspond donc à la moitié de la hauteur du rapport des motifs de la figure 6. Figure 5 shows how the needles work for the eighteen first drops of the armor ratio which, as said before, in have 36, which therefore corresponds to half the height of the ratio of patterns in Figure 6.

Pour augmenter les possibilités de l'effet, deux fils différents sont alimentés sur chaque chute et, quatre types de fils différents sont utilisés, à savoir deux fils (A,B) pour former les rangées « Uni » et deux fils (C,D) pour former les rangées « Piqué Jacquard », les rangées de Jersey étant formées aux chutes impaires et les rangées « Piqué Jacquard » aux chutes paires.To increase the possibilities of the effect, two different wires are supplied on each drop and, four different types of thread are used, namely two threads (A, B) to form the “Uni” rows and two wires (C, D) to form the rows "Piqué Jacquard", the rows of Jersey being formed at odd falls and the “Pique Jacquard” rows with even falls.

Dans cet exemple de réalisation :

  • le fil (A) est un fil polyester 167dtx 48 brins de couleur bleue,
  • le fil (B) est un fil polyester de 220dtx 64 brins de couleur bleu-vert ;
  • le fil (C) est un fil polyester de 167dtx 48 brins de couleur beige ;
  • le fil (D) est un fil polyester de 167dtx 48brins bleu-clair.
In this exemplary embodiment:
  • the thread (A) is a 167dtx 48-strand polyester thread of blue color,
  • the thread (B) is a polyester thread of 220dtx 64 strands of blue-green color;
  • the thread (C) is a polyester thread of 167 dtx 48 strands of beige color;
  • the thread (D) is a polyester thread of 167dtx 48brins light blue.

Ces fils sont délivrés avec une tension de 12 g pour le fil (A) et le fil (C) et une tension respectivement de 6 et 9 g pour les fils (B) et (D).These wires are supplied with a tension of 12 g for wire (A) and wire (C) and a voltage of 6 and 9 g respectively for the wires (B) and (D).

Les fils sont alimentés au travers de jeteurs (J) tels qu'illustrés aux figures 2 et 3.The wires are fed through throwers (J) as illustrated in Figures 2 and 3.

En travaillant de cette manière, on obtient un article tel que représenté à la figure 6.By working in this way, we obtain an article as shown in the figure 6.

Dans les rangées Jersey, le fil (A) apparaít sur l'envers du tricot alors que le fil (B) apparaít sur l'endroit du tricot.In the Jersey rows, the thread (A) appears on the wrong side of the knit while the thread (B) appears on the face of the knitting.

Dans les rangées « Piqué Jacquard », le fil (C) apparaít sur l'envers du tricot et le fil (D) sur l'endroit dans les zones où les aiguilles forment des mailles, alors que le positionnement des fils est inversé au niveau des zones chargées.In the rows "Pique Jacquard", the thread (C) appears on the reverse side of the knit and the thread (D) from the right side in the areas where the needles form stitches, then that the positioning of the wires is reversed at the loaded areas.

Les figures 7,8,9 illustrent d'autres types de motifs réalisables conformément à l'invention.Figures 7,8,9 illustrate other types of achievable patterns according to the invention.

Bien entendu, l'invention n'est pas limitée à ces exemples de réalisation, mais elle en couvre toutes les variantes réalisées dans le même esprit.Of course, the invention is not limited to these exemplary embodiments, but it covers all the variants produced in the same spirit.

Claims (5)

  1. Weft-knitted reversible fabric which is produced on a multiple-drop circular machine and both faces of which may form the visible faces when said knitted fabric is finally used, characterized in that:
    it is produced on the basis of a weave of the "piqué" type, that is to say a knitted fabric in which the stitch rows are formed on a single needle section, the knitting cycle being such that, in succession, a plain row (1, 3) is formed, that is to say a row in which all the needles form stitches, followed by a row (2, 4) in which an alternation of stitches and of fillers is found;
    at least the rows (2, 4) comprising the fillers, rows called "piqué", consist of two threads (A, B) knitted simultaneously, the positioning of said threads in the knitted fabric being such that one appears on the front face and the other on the back face, this positioning being periodically reversed.
  2. Knitted fabric according to Claim 1, characterized in that the periodic reversal of the positioning of the threads (A, B) may take place either from a plain row to the "piqué" row or along the same "piqué" row.
  3. Knitted fabric according to one of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it is produced according to a weave of the "petit piqué" type, the repeat of which is four rows, each row consisting of two different threads.
  4. Knitted fabric according to one of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that, in each "piqué" row, the zones comprising fill-in stitches are separated from one another by a predetermined number of jersey stitches.
  5. Method for producing a knitted fabric according to one of Claims 1 to 4, which involves producing the knitted fabric on a multiple-drop circular machine, preferably double-section, if appropriate equipped with Jacquard systems, said method being characterized in that a succession of jersey plain knitted fabric rows (1, 3) is produced, separated from one another by a row (2, 4) in which fillers are produced on one needle or on two consecutive needles, this taking place at a rate predetermined as a function of the design to be produced, at least some of the rows which comprise fill-in stitches being produced from two different threads (A, B) fed to the needles by means of a guide (J) distributing the two threads (A, B) in the same plane, but forming a different angle in relation to the knitting plane, these two threads being delivered positively to the needles under different tensions.
EP98420152A 1997-10-15 1998-09-08 Reversible knitwear presenting weft knitted stitches and method for its manufacture Expired - Lifetime EP0909847B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9713135 1997-10-15
FR9713135A FR2769641B1 (en) 1997-10-15 1997-10-15 REVERSIBLE KNITTED KNITTED MESH AND PROCESS FOR OBTAINING IT

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EP0909847A1 EP0909847A1 (en) 1999-04-21
EP0909847B1 true EP0909847B1 (en) 2002-08-07

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EP98420152A Expired - Lifetime EP0909847B1 (en) 1997-10-15 1998-09-08 Reversible knitwear presenting weft knitted stitches and method for its manufacture

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EP (1) EP0909847B1 (en)
AT (1) ATE221932T1 (en)
DE (1) DE69807023T2 (en)
ES (1) ES2179442T3 (en)
FR (1) FR2769641B1 (en)
PT (1) PT909847E (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100585254B1 (en) * 1999-04-20 2006-05-30 가부시키가이샤 시마세이키 세이사쿠쇼 Knitting fabric and knitting method thereof
FR2810999B1 (en) * 2000-06-29 2002-08-30 Sicat Soc Ind De Creations Et PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A REVERSIBLE JERSEY JACQUARD KNIT WITH PICKED MESHES AND NEW TYPE OF KNITWAY THUS OBTAINED
EP2042629A1 (en) * 2007-09-28 2009-04-01 Bodet & Horst GmbH & Co. KG Knitwear
CN104404703A (en) * 2014-12-02 2015-03-11 常熟市新达纬编厂 Single-side jacquard woven fabric
CN105177846A (en) * 2015-09-25 2015-12-23 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 Knitted civil official embroidery costume
FR3093118B1 (en) * 2019-02-21 2021-02-19 C H A B Sheath formed by at least one circular knit for the realization of a reinforced concrete pile
FR3125302A1 (en) * 2021-07-13 2023-01-20 Sigvaris Ag method of knitting dense areas

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1451298A (en) * 1965-05-20 1966-01-07 Colroy Sa Method of making pattern knitwear on circular knitting machines
JPS5846155A (en) * 1981-09-10 1983-03-17 帝人株式会社 Fancy interlock stitch fabric
FR2653789B1 (en) * 1989-10-31 1992-02-14 Leborgne Sa Ets J DOUBLE SIDED ELASTIC KNIT.

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PT909847E (en) 2002-12-31
ATE221932T1 (en) 2002-08-15
FR2769641B1 (en) 1999-11-26
FR2769641A1 (en) 1999-04-16
DE69807023D1 (en) 2002-09-12
DE69807023T2 (en) 2002-12-12
EP0909847A1 (en) 1999-04-21
ES2179442T3 (en) 2003-01-16

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