EP0858268B1 - Shirt with collar - Google Patents

Shirt with collar Download PDF

Info

Publication number
EP0858268B1
EP0858268B1 EP96924754A EP96924754A EP0858268B1 EP 0858268 B1 EP0858268 B1 EP 0858268B1 EP 96924754 A EP96924754 A EP 96924754A EP 96924754 A EP96924754 A EP 96924754A EP 0858268 B1 EP0858268 B1 EP 0858268B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
edge
collar
fact
button
shirt
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP96924754A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0858268A1 (en
Inventor
Michael Freiherr Von Korff
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Daniels & Korff GmbH
Original Assignee
Daniels & Korff GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Daniels & Korff GmbH filed Critical Daniels & Korff GmbH
Publication of EP0858268A1 publication Critical patent/EP0858268A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0858268B1 publication Critical patent/EP0858268B1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

Links

Images

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B3/00—Collars
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B1/00—Shirts

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a shirt according to the Preamble of the claim.
  • the collar web forms a ring, the circumference of which is the so-called Collar size is.
  • the shirt is with a tie carried.
  • a shirt becomes too tight over time in the collar area in the course of a day, when the throat usually widens a little, be it after washing the shirt several times, where the fabric is always something comes in, so that the neck width becomes smaller. So there is a need after a comfortable collar that made such changes in the compensates for the desired collar size or at least allows it. It should the shirt can still be worn with a tie.
  • the Collar should fit well and comfortably regardless of the required size, but upright on the neck.
  • the reinforcement is such that the area below the collar land is by no means stiffened, rather it is still flexible. Visually in preferred training the reinforcement area also occurs practically not in appearance. It is only reinforced by suitable measures, for example, there is a reinforcing one in its area Insert and / or twice the material thickness of the material from which the Shirt is sewn. By choosing different deposits each can desired reinforcement should be achieved, the reinforcement should but be less than is usually used in the collar area. However, this does not preclude the stiffening in the reinforcement area Means such as B. collar sticks are sewn.
  • the gain range is in one piece with the lower step or the upper step. It is the same when cutting the breast cut taken into account in the form of an offer. In this way, the reinforcement area only has to be with the collar as well as the breast cut along the second edge and only with the Breast panels are joined along the third edge. This happens with one seam each.
  • an insert that is related to the insert of the reinforcement area and integrally merges into it.
  • the button area on the chest area of the shirt is slightly reinforced and the Collar better supported by the chest area so that it has less inclination has to tip forward. This will make the effect of the reinforcement areas supported.
  • Each shirt has two reinforcement areas, there is one for each breast side thus a reinforcement area. In a preferred embodiment, it is only so chosen large so that it does not attract attention, for example from the folded ones Collar corners are covered visually.
  • the two reinforcement areas of a shirt are made in the same way.
  • the top button or the associated buttonhole are at the same height as the first edge, preferably they are located at a distance of 20 to 40% of the total length of the first edge, calculated from the transition of the upper edge of the upper step or lower step in measured the collar web and from there down.
  • the shape of the stiffening area is in principle arbitrary, preferably it is triangular. Two edges of this triangle result on the one hand by limiting the under-entry or over-entry and on the other hand through the transition between the breastplate and the collar web, the third edge runs diagonally to the button facing. It starts a few centimeters for example 4.5 cm from the upper end of the lower step or upper step and runs obliquely in a length of 6 to 10 cm the collar bridge.
  • the third edge can be straight, but it can also be swinging.
  • top and bottom steps along the largest proportion their respective total length is a constant width, they are determined by the respective reinforcement range widened, namely below the Collar web of the usual width, for example 2 to 4 cm, to about double.
  • the seam through which the bottom step or top step after folding down of the blank is preferably no longer running parallel to the free edge of the lower step and upper step over the entire Length, but in the area of the reinforcement area obliquely upwards Collar web out so that the reinforcement area is also formed.
  • the reinforcement area is in the repeat with the rest of the cut, so that it is practical with the finished shirt not visually noticeable. Even if the reinforcement area is preferred is formed that additional material is sewn onto the breast blank it is also possible to cut the breast at the bottom, so to reinforce on the inside. The latter is for example at Shirts according to the state of the art retrospectively possible by An insert and possibly an additional layer of fabric are applied on the inside are then the gain range according to the invention form.
  • FIG. 1 The from FIG. 1 visible cut for a breast area 18 differs from the prior art only in the additional part 20, which protrudes in one piece to the left above.
  • a region 22 has essentially (plus seam allowance) the width of the bottom step or top step still to be created.
  • the exemplary embodiment shown relates to the upper step 24, but the lower step is also produced.
  • FIG. 1 has already been marked with an arrow 26 where the front edge of the top step 24 will be when the cut is finished.
  • a cotton fabric with a basis weight of about 110 g / m 2 is used as the shirt fabric.
  • FIG. 2 shows a specially cut piece of insert 28 placed on the area 22 and the additional part 20, the insert 28 has the shape of these two parts 20, 22 and is in one piece. It stretches over the full length of the upper step 24 and thus also the Downfall, this is not evident in the drawing, but in principle known.
  • the insert 28 is fixed on the fabric by hot pressing or ironing, as is known per se.
  • the following fabrics provided with adhesives for example cotton fabrics, are coated with polyethylene, basis weight between 40 and 120 g / m 2 , for. B. 60 g / m 2 used.
  • FIG. 3 shows an approximately 1 cm wide strip for seam allowance 30 folded over on the left edge of area 22 or additional part 20, in the area of a kink where the straight left Edge of the area 22 into the additional area which is delimited upwards 20 passes, an incision 32 is made. At it begins after later on the reinforcement area will be discussed later. In the known manner, the seam allowance is ironed over for sewing to facilitate.
  • FIG. 5 now shows the completed arrangement. There are still in the receipt Buttonholes worked in, the upper step 24 is finished. How from FIG. 5 can be seen, the top buttonhole 36 is in one Distance about 1.5 cm from the top edge of the top step 24. The top one Buttonhole 36 runs transversely to the longitudinal direction of the upper step 24 other buttonholes, only buttonhole 38 of which is shown on the other hand, in the longitudinal direction of the upper step 24.
  • a collar 40 is sewn on to the top step in a known manner, he has a collar land 42.
  • the FIG. 5 shows there is none in the collar land Buttonhole is provided, accordingly, is at the other end of the collar land also no button arranged. Rather, the top one is located Button of the button panel, which is formed from the upper step and lower step, in a certain distance from the connection point of the upper step 24 (or Lower edge) and the collar web 42.
  • the completed reinforcement area 44 can now be seen. It is essentially triangular. It is limited by a first one Edge 46, it runs in an imaginary extension of the seam with the the slip is stitched when it extends straight beyond the crease becomes. The reinforcement area hangs along the first edge 46 So in one piece with the material of the lower part 24, the same applies for the insert 28.
  • a second edge 48 is the reinforcement area with the collar 40, more precisely connected to the collar web 42.
  • a third edge 50 extends obliquely to the front edge 34 and hits the collar land approximately at a location that is typically double from the front edge 34 than when the shirt after State of the art is the case. In the exemplary embodiment shown, the third edge 50 straight and has a length of about 7.5 cm. The width the upper step 24 is approximately 3.5 cm.
  • the inventive design of the reinforcement area 44 is suitable also for buttoned collars, also known as “button down” become.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Crystals, And After-Treatments Of Crystals (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Turbine Rotor Nozzle Sealing (AREA)

Abstract

PCT No. PCT/DE96/01321 Sec. 371 Date Aug. 26, 1998 Sec. 102(e) Date Aug. 26, 1998 PCT Filed Jul. 19, 1996 PCT Pub. No. WO97/16081 PCT Pub. Date May 9, 1997The invention relates to a shirt with a collar attached thereto and a left-hand and a right-hand chest blank which close in the chest area with an underlap having buttons and overlap having button-holes. A reinforcement area is provided which is bounded in a substantially triangular manner by three edges; a first edge which is connected to the underlap or the overlap, a second edge connected to the collar and a third edge connected to the chest blank. There is a button or a button hole below the collar and the level with the first edge.

Description

Die Erfindung bezieht sich auf ein Oberhemd nach dem Oberbegriff des Patentanspruchs.The invention relates to a shirt according to the Preamble of the claim.

Bei dem bekannten Oberhemd dieser Art (GB-A-183 745) ist der Kragen mit seinem Kragensteg an die obere Kante jedes der beiden Brustzuschnitte angesetzt. Untertritt und Obertritt, die gemeinsam die Knopfleiste bilden, sind dabei nach oben durch den Kragensteg abgeschlossen. Im Kragensteg befindet sich auf der Seite des Untertritts ein Knopf, auf der Seite des Obertritts ein Knopfloch. Der entsprechende Knopf wird oft auch als Kragenknopf bezeichnet.In the known shirt of this type (GB-A-183 745), the collar with its collar web attached to the upper edge of each of the two breast cuts. Downfall and top step, which together form the button panel, are after Completed at the top by the collar web. Is located in the collar web a button on the side of the under step, on the side of the under step Buttonhole. The corresponding button is often referred to as a collar button.

Im zusammengeknöpften Zustand des Kragenknopfes und des zugehörigen Knopfloches bildet der Kragensteg einen Ring, dessen Umfang die sogenannte Kragenweite ist. Typischerweise wird das Oberhemd mit einer Krawatte getragen.In the buttoned state of the collar button and the associated Buttonhole, the collar web forms a ring, the circumference of which is the so-called Collar size is. Typically the shirt is with a tie carried.

Vielen Benutzern wird ein Hemd mit der Zeit im Kragenbereich zu eng, sei es im Laufe eines Tages, wenn der Hals üblicherweise etwas weiter wird, sei es nach mehrmaligem Waschen des Hemdes, bei dem der Stoff stets etwas eingeht, sodaß die Halsweite geringer wird. Es besteht daher das Bedürfnis nach einem bequemen Kragen, der derartige Änderungen in der gewünschten Kragenweite ausgleicht oder zumindest zuläßt. Dabei sollte das Hemd nach wie vor mit einer Krawatte getragen werden können. Der Kragen sollte unabhängig vom jeweils benötigten Maß gut sitzen und bequem, aber aufrecht am Hals anliegen. For many users, a shirt becomes too tight over time in the collar area in the course of a day, when the throat usually widens a little, be it after washing the shirt several times, where the fabric is always something comes in, so that the neck width becomes smaller. So there is a need after a comfortable collar that made such changes in the compensates for the desired collar size or at least allows it. It should the shirt can still be worn with a tie. The Collar should fit well and comfortably regardless of the required size, but upright on the neck.

Vielfach wird eine Bequemlichkeit beim Tragen von Hemden dadurch erreicht, daß der oberste Knopf, also der genannte Kragenknopf, gar nicht geschlossen wird. Dadurch vermeidet man zwar, daß sich über den Tag oder auf Dauer ein enges Gefühl am Hals einstellt, einen sauberen Sitz des Kragens erreicht man auf diese Weise aber nicht, weil die Kragenecken dazu neigen, seitlich und nach unten weg zu rutschen und sich ein sauberer, geschlossener Kragen nicht ergibt. Dem kann man zwar durch eine Krawatte nachhelfen, es bleibt aber eine Notlösung.In many cases, comfort when wearing shirts is achieved by that the top button, that is, the collar button, is not at all is closed. This avoids that the day or permanently creates a tight feeling around the neck, a clean fit of the collar you can not reach this way because the collar corners tend to slide sideways and down and get a cleaner, closed collar does not result. You can do that with a tie help, but it remains an emergency solution.

Hier setzt nun die Erfindung ein. Sie hat es sich zur Aufgabe gemacht, das Oberhemd der eingangs genannten Art dahingehend weiterzubilden, daß der Kragen bei tadellosem Sitz sich auf unterschiedliche Halsweiten, deren Variationsbereich bei einigen Zentimetern, beispielsweise 2 bis 3 cm, liegen kann, einstellt. Auf diese Weise wird bei ordnungsgemäß sitzendem Kragen ein stets bequemes Tragen des Oberhemdes erzielt.This is where the invention begins. It has set itself the task of Training shirt of the type mentioned in that the Collar with perfect fit on different neck widths, their The range of variation is a few centimeters, for example 2 to 3 cm can, sets. This way, when the collar is properly seated always comfortable wearing the shirt.

Ausgehend von dem durch die Merkmale des Patentanspruchs 1 Oberhemd der eingangs genannten Art wird diese Aufgabe gelöst.Based on that by the features of claim 1 Shirt of the type mentioned above becomes this task solved.

Durch den Verstärkungsbereich wird der Übergang vom Untertritt bzw. Obertritt zum Kragensteg aussteifend verstärkt und es wird vermieden, daß die Kragenecken nach unten oder zur Seite wegrutschen können. Falten, die sich unterhalb des Kragenstegs dann leicht bilden, wenn ein Oberhemd nach dem Stand der Technik mit geöffnetem Kragenknopf getragen wird, stellen sich nicht ein. Vielmehr wirkt die Verstärkung so, daß auch ohne Krawatte die Kragenecken gut sitzen und sich ein geschlossener Kragen ergibt.The transition from underpass or Reinforced stiffening top step to the collar web and it is avoided that the collar corners can slide down or to the side. Wrinkles that form easily below the collar when a shirt according to the state of the art is worn with the collar button open, don't adjust. Rather, the reinforcement works so that even without Tie the collar corners well and have a closed collar results.

Dabei ist die Verstärkung so, daß der Bereich unterhalb des Kragensteges keineswegs ausgesteift ist, vielmehr ist er nach wie vor flexibel. Optisch tritt der Verstärkungsbereich in bevorzugter Ausbildung auch praktisch nicht in Erscheinung. Er ist lediglich durch geeignete Maßnahmen verstärkt, beispielsweise befindet sich in seinem Bereich eine verstärkende Einlage und/oder die doppelte Materialstärke des Stoffes, aus dem das Oberhemd genäht ist. Durch die Wahl unterschiedlicher Einlagen kann jeweils eine gewünschte Verstärkung erzielt werden, die Verstärkung sollte aber geringer sein als sie im Kragenbereich üblicherweise eingesetzt wird. Dies schließt allerdings nicht aus, daß im Verstärkungsbereich aussteifende Mittel, wie z. B. Kragenstäbchen, eingenäht sind.The reinforcement is such that the area below the collar land is by no means stiffened, rather it is still flexible. Visually in preferred training the reinforcement area also occurs practically not in appearance. It is only reinforced by suitable measures, for example, there is a reinforcing one in its area Insert and / or twice the material thickness of the material from which the Shirt is sewn. By choosing different deposits each can desired reinforcement should be achieved, the reinforcement should but be less than is usually used in the collar area. However, this does not preclude the stiffening in the reinforcement area Means such as B. collar sticks are sewn.

Der Verstärkungsbereich ist einstückig mit dem Untertritt bzw. dem Obertritt. Er ist gleich beim Zuschneiden des Brustzuschnittes mit berücksichtigt in Form einer Zugabe. Auf diese Weise muß der Verstärkungsbereich nur noch mit dem Kragen sowie dem Brustzuschnitt entlang der zweiten Kante und nur mit dem Brustzuschnitt entlang der dritten Kante verbunden werden. Dies geschieht durch jeweils eine Naht.The gain range is in one piece with the lower step or the upper step. It is the same when cutting the breast cut taken into account in the form of an encore. In this way, the reinforcement area only has to be with the collar as well as the breast cut along the second edge and only with the Breast panels are joined along the third edge. this happens with one seam each.

In einer bevorzugten Ausbildung befindet sich im Untertritt bzw. im Obertritt eine Einlage, die mit der Einlage des Verstärkungsbereichs zusammenhängt und einstückig in diese übergeht. Durch die Einlage in den Teilen der Knopfleiste wird der Brustbereich des Hemdes leicht verstärkt und der Kragen besser vom Brustbereich unterstützt, sodaß er geringere Neigung hat, nach vorn wegzukippen. Dadurch wird die Wirkung der Verstärkungsbereiche unterstützt.In a preferred embodiment is in the lower step or in the upper step an insert that is related to the insert of the reinforcement area and integrally merges into it. Through the insert in the parts The button area on the chest area of the shirt is slightly reinforced and the Collar better supported by the chest area so that it has less inclination has to tip forward. This will make the effect of the reinforcement areas supported.

Jedes Oberhemd hat zwei Verstärkungsbereiche, für jede Brustseite gibt es somit einen Verstärkungsbereich. Er ist in bevorzugter Ausführung nur so groß gewählt, daß er möglichst nicht auffällt, beispielseise von den heruntergeklappten Kragenecken optisch verdeckt wird. Die beiden Verstärkungsbereiche eines Hemdes sind gleichartig ausgeführt.Each shirt has two reinforcement areas, there is one for each breast side thus a reinforcement area. In a preferred embodiment, it is only so chosen large so that it does not attract attention, for example from the folded ones Collar corners are covered visually. The two reinforcement areas of a shirt are made in the same way.

In einer besonders bevorzugten Ausbildung ist im Kragensteg kein Knopf und kein Knopfloch mehr vorgesehen, vielmehr befindet sich der oberste Knopf der Knopfleiste und damit auch das zugehörige oberste Knopfloch im Untertritt bzw. im Obertritt und unterhalb des Kragensteges. Die Anordnung ist so getroffen, daß der oberste Knopf bzw. das zugehörigen Knopfloch auf gleicher Höhe wie die erste Kante sind, vorzugsweise befinden sie sich in einem Abstand von 20 bis 40 % der Gesamtlänge der ersten Kante, gerechnet vom Übergang der Oberkante des Obertritts bzw. Untertritts in den Kragensteg und von dort nach unten gemessen.In a particularly preferred embodiment, there is no button in the collar web and no buttonhole provided anymore, rather the top one is located Button of the button panel and thus the associated top buttonhole in the Underside or in the top step and below the collar web. The order is made so that the top button or the associated buttonhole are at the same height as the first edge, preferably they are located at a distance of 20 to 40% of the total length of the first edge, calculated from the transition of the upper edge of the upper step or lower step in measured the collar web and from there down.

Die Form des Versteifungsbereichs ist grundsätzlich beliebig, vorzugsweise ist sie dreieck-förmig. Zwei Kanten dieses Dreiecks ergeben sich einerseits durch die Begrenzung des Untertritts bzw. Obertritts und andererseits durch den Übergang zwischen dem Brustzuschnitt und dem Kragensteg, die dritte Kante verläuft schräg zur Knopfleiste. Sie beginnt einige Zentimeter, beispielsweise 4,5 cm vom oberen Ende des Untertritts bzw. Obertritts entfernt und verläuft in einer Länge von 6 bis 10 cm schräg verlaufend auf den Kragensteg zu. Die dritte Kante kann gerade verlaufen, sie kann aber auch geschwungen sein.The shape of the stiffening area is in principle arbitrary, preferably it is triangular. Two edges of this triangle result on the one hand by limiting the under-entry or over-entry and on the other hand through the transition between the breastplate and the collar web, the third edge runs diagonally to the button facing. It starts a few centimeters for example 4.5 cm from the upper end of the lower step or upper step and runs obliquely in a length of 6 to 10 cm the collar bridge. The third edge can be straight, but it can also be swinging.

Vorzugsweise haben Obertritt und Untertritt entlang des größten Anteils ihrer jeweiligen Gesamtlänge eine konstante Breite, sie werden durch den jeweiligen Verstärkungsbereich verbreitert, und zwarerst unterhalb des Kragensteges von der üblichen Breite, beispielsweise 2 bis 4 cm, auf etwa das Doppelte. Die Naht, durch die der Untertritt bzw. Obertritt nach Umklappen des Zuschnitts gebildet wird, verläuft vorzugsweise nicht mehr parallel zur freien Kante des Untertritts und Obertritts über die gesamte Länge, sondern im Bereich des Verstärkungsbereichs nach schräg oben zum Kragensteg hin, so daß der Verstärkungsbereich mit ausgebildet wird.Preferably have top and bottom steps along the largest proportion their respective total length is a constant width, they are determined by the respective reinforcement range widened, namely below the Collar web of the usual width, for example 2 to 4 cm, to about double. The seam through which the bottom step or top step after folding down of the blank is preferably no longer running parallel to the free edge of the lower step and upper step over the entire Length, but in the area of the reinforcement area obliquely upwards Collar web out so that the reinforcement area is also formed.

In bevorzugter Ausbildung befindet sich der Verstärkungsbereich im Rapport mit dem übrigen Zuschnitt, sodaß er beim fertigen Hemd praktisch nicht optisch auffällt. Auch wenn bevorzugt der Verstärkungsbereich dadurch gebildet wird, daß zusätzliches Material auf den Brustzuschnitt aufgenäht wird, so ist es durchaus auch möglich, den Brustzuschnitt unten, also auf seiner Innenseite, zu verstärken. Letzteres ist beispielsweise bei Hemden nach dem Stand der Technik nachträglich möglich, indem auf der Innenseite eine Einlage und gegebenenfalls eine zusätzliche Stofflage aufgebracht werden, die dann den erfindungsgemäßen Verstärkungsbereich ausbilden.In a preferred embodiment, the reinforcement area is in the repeat with the rest of the cut, so that it is practical with the finished shirt not visually noticeable. Even if the reinforcement area is preferred is formed that additional material is sewn onto the breast blank it is also possible to cut the breast at the bottom, so to reinforce on the inside. The latter is for example at Shirts according to the state of the art retrospectively possible by An insert and possibly an additional layer of fabric are applied on the inside are then the gain range according to the invention form.

Weitere Vorzüge und Merkmale der Erfindung ergeben sich aus den übrigen Ansprüchen sowie der nun folgenden Beschreibung eines nicht einschränkend zu verstehenden Ausführungsbeispiels der Erfindung, das unter Bezugnahme auf die Zeichnung im folgenden näher erläutert wird. In dieser Zeichnung zeigen:

  • FIG. 1 eine Drausicht auf den oberen Bereich eines Brustzuschnittes,
  • FIG. 2 eine Darstellung entsprechend FIG. 1 einer Einlage für den später auszubildenden Untertritt bzw. Obertritt sowie den Verstärkungsbereich,
  • FIG. 3 eine Darstellung gem. FIG. 1 für eine Anordnung, bei der nun die Einlage aufgelegt und aufgeklebt und eine Nahtzugabe am linken Rand des Zuschnitts umgelegt und umgebügelt ist, weiterhin ist ein Einschnitt erfolgt,
  • FIG. 4 eine Darstellung gem. FIG. 3, jedoch nun mit umgeschlagenem Untertritt bzw. Obertritt und Ausbildung des Verstärkungsbereichs, die Nähte an der Vorderkante und der Innenkante des Obertritts bzw. Untertritts sowie entlang des Verstärkungsbereichs sind bereits ausgeführt und
  • FIG. 5 die Anordnung gem. FIG. 4, jedoch nun mit angesetztem Kragen, weiterhin sind Knopflöcher ausgeführt.
    • Further advantages and features of the invention result from the remaining claims and the following description of a non-restrictive embodiment of the invention, which is explained in more detail below with reference to the drawing. In this drawing:
  • FIG. 1 a plan view of the upper area of a breast blank,
  • FIG. 2 shows a representation corresponding to FIG. 1 an insert for the lower step or upper step to be trained later and the reinforcement area,
  • FIG. 3 a representation according to FIG. 1 for an arrangement in which the insert is now laid on and glued on and a seam allowance is folded over and ironed on the left edge of the blank, an incision has also been made,
  • FIG. 4 a representation according to FIG. 3, but now with the bottom step or top step folded over and formation of the reinforcement area, the seams on the front edge and the inner edge of the top step or bottom step and along the reinforcement area have already been made and
  • FIG. 5 the arrangement acc. FIG. 4, but now with the collar attached, buttonholes are still made.

    • Aus den Figuren ist die Herstellung eines Brustteils für ein Oberhemd bekannt. Die anderen Zuschnitte, beispielsweise für die Rückenteile, die Ärmel usw. sind von der Erfindung nicht betroffen. Dies gilt auch für den Kragen, der im wesentlichen nach dem Stand der Technik ausgeführt ist. Er hat allerdings weder einen Kragenknopf noch ein entsprechendes Knopfloch in seinem Kragensteg.From the figures is the manufacture of a chest part for a shirt known. The other cuts, for example for the back parts, the Sleeves, etc. are not affected by the invention. This also applies to the Collar, which is carried out essentially according to the prior art. He has neither a collar button nor a corresponding buttonhole in his collar web.

    Der aus FIG. 1 ersichtliche Zuschnitt für einen Brustbereich 18 unterscheidet sich vom Stand der Technik nur durch den zusätzlichen Teil 20, der einstückig nachlinks oben wegsteht. Ein Bereich 22 hat im wesentlichen (zuzüglich Nahtzugabe) die Breite des noch zu erstellenden Untertritts bzw. Obertritts. Das gezeigte Ausführungsbeispiel betrifft den Obertritt 24, ebenso ist aber der Untertritt hergestellt. In FIG. 1 ist mit einem Pfeil 26 schon die Stelle markiert, an der sich die vordere Kante des Obertritts 24 beim fertiggestellten Zuschnitt befinden wird. Als Hemdenstoff wird beispielsweise ein Baumwollstoff mit einem Flächengewicht von etwa 110 g/m2 verwendet. The from FIG. 1 visible cut for a breast area 18 differs from the prior art only in the additional part 20, which protrudes in one piece to the left above. A region 22 has essentially (plus seam allowance) the width of the bottom step or top step still to be created. The exemplary embodiment shown relates to the upper step 24, but the lower step is also produced. In FIG. 1 has already been marked with an arrow 26 where the front edge of the top step 24 will be when the cut is finished. For example, a cotton fabric with a basis weight of about 110 g / m 2 is used as the shirt fabric.

    Wie FIG. 2 zeigt, wird nun eine speziell zugeschnittenes Stück Einlage 28 auf den Bereich 22 und den zusätzlichen Teil 20 aufgelegt, die Einlage 28 hat die Form dieser beiden Teile 20, 22 und ist einstückig. Sie erstreckt sich über die vollständige Länge des Obertritts 24 und damit auch des Untertritts, dies ist in der Zeichnung nicht ersichtlich, grundsätzlich aber bekannt.As FIG. 2 shows a specially cut piece of insert 28 placed on the area 22 and the additional part 20, the insert 28 has the shape of these two parts 20, 22 and is in one piece. It stretches over the full length of the upper step 24 and thus also the Downfall, this is not evident in the drawing, but in principle known.

    Die Einlage 28 wird durch Heißpressen oder Aufbügeln auf dem Stoff fixiert, wie dies an sich bekannt ist. Als Einlage werden folgende mit Klebemitteln versehene Gewebe, z.B. Baumwollgewebe mit Polyäthylen beschichtet, Flächengewicht zwischen 40 und 120 g/m2, z. B. 60 g/m2, verwendet.The insert 28 is fixed on the fabric by hot pressing or ironing, as is known per se. As an insert, the following fabrics provided with adhesives, for example cotton fabrics, are coated with polyethylene, basis weight between 40 and 120 g / m 2 , for. B. 60 g / m 2 used.

    Wie FIG. 3 zeigt, wird für eine Nahtzugabe ein etwa 1 cm breiter Streifen 30 am linken Rand des Bereichs 22 bzw. des zusätzlichen Teils 20 umgeschlagen, im Bereich eines Knicks, wo die geradlinieg verlaufende linke Kante des Bereichs 22 in den schräg nach oben begrenzten zusätzlichen Bereich 20 übergeht, wird ein Einschnitt 32 gemacht. An ihr beginnt nach oben hin gehend später der Verstärkungsbereich, hierauf wird noch eingegangen. Im bekannter Weise wird die Nahtzugabe umgebügelt, um das Nähen zu erleichtern.As FIG. 3 shows an approximately 1 cm wide strip for seam allowance 30 folded over on the left edge of area 22 or additional part 20, in the area of a kink where the straight left Edge of the area 22 into the additional area which is delimited upwards 20 passes, an incision 32 is made. At it begins after later on the reinforcement area will be discussed later. In the known manner, the seam allowance is ironed over for sewing to facilitate.

    Entlang der durch den Pfeil 26 dargestellten Vorderkante wird nun umgeschlagen und gebügelt, der erstellte Beleg wird von rechts einmal knappartig aufgesteppt, die vordere Kante 34, die sich auf der Linie des Pfeils 26 befindet, wird einmal knappartig abgesteppt. Auf diese Weise wird die Anordnung gem. FIG. 4 erreicht. Man erkennt, daß die rechte Naht des Belegs zunächst wie üblich und von unten gesehen in gleicher Entfernung von der vorderen Kante 34 verläuft, dann aber im Bereich des Knicks schräg nach oben weggeht.Turning is now carried out along the front edge represented by arrow 26 and ironed, the document created becomes scarce from the right stitched, the front edge 34, which is on the line of arrow 26 is stitched once. In this way the Arrangement acc. FIG. 4 reached. It can be seen that the right seam of the slip initially as usual and seen from below at the same distance runs from the front edge 34, but then in the area of the kink goes diagonally upwards.

    FIG. 5 zeigt nun die fertiggestellte Anordnung. In dem Beleg sind noch Knopflöcher eingearbeitet, der Obertritt 24 ist damit fertiggestellt. Wie aus FIG. 5 ersichtlich ist, befindet sich das oberste Knopfloch 36 in einer Entfernung von etwa 1,5 cm von der Oberkante des Obertritts 24. Das oberste Knopfloch 36 verläuft quer zur Längsrichtung des Obertritts 24, die anderen Knopflöcher, von denen nur das Knopfloch 38 gezeigt ist, verlaufen dagegen in Längsrichtung des Obertritts 24. FIG. 5 now shows the completed arrangement. There are still in the receipt Buttonholes worked in, the upper step 24 is finished. How from FIG. 5 can be seen, the top buttonhole 36 is in one Distance about 1.5 cm from the top edge of the top step 24. The top one Buttonhole 36 runs transversely to the longitudinal direction of the upper step 24 other buttonholes, only buttonhole 38 of which is shown on the other hand, in the longitudinal direction of the upper step 24.

    Oben an den Obertritt ist ein Kragen 40 in bekannter Weise angenäht, er hat einen Kragensteg 42. Wie die FIG. 5 zeigt, ist im Kragensteg kein Knopfloch vorgesehen, dementsprechend ist am anderen Ende des Kragensteges auch kein Knopf angeordnet. Vielmehr befindet sich der oberste Knopf der Knopfleiste, die aus Obertritt und Untertritt gebildet wird, in einen gewissen Abstand von der Verbindungsstelle des Obertritts 24 (bzw. Untertritts) und des Kragenstegs 42.A collar 40 is sewn on to the top step in a known manner, he has a collar land 42. As the FIG. 5 shows there is none in the collar land Buttonhole is provided, accordingly, is at the other end of the collar land also no button arranged. Rather, the top one is located Button of the button panel, which is formed from the upper step and lower step, in a certain distance from the connection point of the upper step 24 (or Lower edge) and the collar web 42.

    Aus FIG. 5 ist nun der fertiggestellte Verstärkungsbereich 44 ersichtlich. Er ist im wesentlichen dreieckförmig. Er wird begrenzt durch eine erste Kante 46, sie verläuft in einer gedachten Verlängerung der Naht mit der der Beleg abgesteppt ist, wenn diese geradlinig über den Knick hinaus verlängert wird. Entlang der ersten Kante 46 hängt der Verstärkungsbereich also einstückig mit dem Material des Untertritts 24 zusammen, gleiches gilt für die Einlage 28. Entlang einer zweiten Kante 48 ist der Verstärkungsbereich mit dem Kragen 40, präziser ausgedrückt mit dem Kragensteg 42 verbunden. Eine dritte Kante 50 verläuft schräg zur vorderen Kante 34 und trifft den Kragensteg etwa an einer Stelle, die typischerweise das Doppelte von der vorderen Kante 34 entfernt ist, als dies beim Hemd nach dem Stand der Technik der Fall ist. Im gezeigten Ausführungsbeispiel ist die dritte Kante 50 geradlinig und hat eine Länge von etwa 7,5 cm. Die Breite des Obertritts 24 liegt bei etwa 3,5 cm.From FIG. 5, the completed reinforcement area 44 can now be seen. It is essentially triangular. It is limited by a first one Edge 46, it runs in an imaginary extension of the seam with the the slip is stitched when it extends straight beyond the crease becomes. The reinforcement area hangs along the first edge 46 So in one piece with the material of the lower part 24, the same applies for the insert 28. Along a second edge 48 is the reinforcement area with the collar 40, more precisely connected to the collar web 42. A third edge 50 extends obliquely to the front edge 34 and hits the collar land approximately at a location that is typically double from the front edge 34 than when the shirt after State of the art is the case. In the exemplary embodiment shown, the third edge 50 straight and has a length of about 7.5 cm. The width the upper step 24 is approximately 3.5 cm.

    Die erfindungsgemäße Ausbildung des Verstärkungsbereichs 44 eignet sich auch für heruntergeknöpfte Kragen, wie sie auch als "button down" bezeichnet werden.The inventive design of the reinforcement area 44 is suitable also for buttoned collars, also known as "button down" become.

    Claims (13)

    1. A shirt, preferably a men's shirt, with an attached collar (40), with a left as well as a right chest cutting (18), which finish in the chest area with a godet, which comprises several buttons or an upper treadle motion (24), which comprises several button holes (36, 38), whereas one button hole of the upper treadle motion constitutes the top button hole and with a reinforcing area, which is essentially embodied in the shape of a triangle and which is limited by three edges, namely a first edge (46), which is in connection with the godet or the upper treadle motion (24), a second edge (48), which is connected with the collar, and a third edge (50) characterized by the fact that the top button or the top button hole (36) is positioned below the collar (40) and at the same height as the first edge (46), that the reinforcing area is connected with the chest cutting (18) at the third edge and that the reinforcing area (44) is connected in one-piece with the godet or the upper treadle motion (24).
    2. The shirt according to claim 1 characterized by the fact that an interlining (28) is positioned in the reinforcing area (44).
    3. The shirt according to claim 2 characterized by the fact that an interlining (28) is positioned respectively in the godet and in the upper treadle motion (24) as well and that the same is in one-piece with the interlining (28) of the reinforcing area (44).
    4. The shirt according to claim 1 characterized by the fact that the second edge (48) is connected with the collar (40) via a seam and the third edge (50) is connected with the chest cutting to match via a seam.
    5. The shirt according to claim 1 characterized by the fact that the collar (40) has a collar part (42) and that there is no button or button hole in the collar part (42) and that the button or the button hole (36) at the height of the first edge (46) are the top button hole (36) or the top button of the button panel, which is constituted of the godet and the upper treadle motion (24).
    6. The shirt according to claim 1 characterized by the fact that the upper treadle motion (24) and the godet respectively are encompassed and closed at the top by a collar part (42).
    7. The shirt according to claim 1 characterized by the fact that the two reinforcing areas (44) essentially, are preferably completely covered under the wings of the collar, which arc folded down, when the shirt is worn under normal circumstances.
    8. The shirt according to claim 1 characterized by the fact that the third edge (50) is bow-shaped.
    9. The shirt according to claim 1 characterized by the fact that the third edge (50) is the longest of the three edges.
    10. The shirt according to claim 1 characterized by the fact that the second edge (48) is the shortest of the three edges.
    11. The shirt according to claim 1 characterized by the fact that the button and the button hole (36), which are at the same height as the first edge (46), are arranged at a height of 20 to 40 % of the total length of this first edge (46), calculated from the top downwards.
    12. The shirt according to claim 1 characterized by the fact that the top button hole (36) extends crosswise to the longitudinal direction of the upper treadle motion (24).
    13. The shirt according to claim 1 characterized by the fact that it comprises two identical, symmetrically arranged reinforcing areas (44).
    EP96924754A 1995-11-02 1996-07-19 Shirt with collar Expired - Lifetime EP0858268B1 (en)

    Applications Claiming Priority (3)

    Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
    DE19540700 1995-11-02
    DE19540700A DE19540700A1 (en) 1995-11-02 1995-11-02 Shirt with a collar
    PCT/DE1996/001321 WO1997016081A1 (en) 1995-11-02 1996-07-19 Shirt with collar

    Publications (2)

    Publication Number Publication Date
    EP0858268A1 EP0858268A1 (en) 1998-08-19
    EP0858268B1 true EP0858268B1 (en) 2000-04-12

    Family

    ID=7776357

    Family Applications (1)

    Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
    EP96924754A Expired - Lifetime EP0858268B1 (en) 1995-11-02 1996-07-19 Shirt with collar

    Country Status (7)

    Country Link
    US (1) US6112329A (en)
    EP (1) EP0858268B1 (en)
    JP (1) JP2000510538A (en)
    AT (1) ATE191616T1 (en)
    AU (1) AU6512496A (en)
    DE (2) DE19540700A1 (en)
    WO (1) WO1997016081A1 (en)

    Families Citing this family (4)

    * Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
    Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
    US7004361B2 (en) * 2002-07-26 2006-02-28 Daniel Thomas Collar-shaping device
    JP4585827B2 (en) * 2004-06-21 2010-11-24 好司 加藤 Shirt with neck adjustment function
    ATE472257T1 (en) * 2005-11-29 2010-07-15 Arc Teryx Equipment Inc MULTI-LAYER COLLAR
    PT2744802T (en) 2011-08-17 2017-03-15 Piramal Imaging Sa Compounds for binding to the platelet specific glycoprotein iib/iiia and their use for imaging of thrombi

    Family Cites Families (5)

    * Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
    Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
    GB183745A (en) * 1921-09-12 1922-08-03 Harry Tolton Improvements in and relating to negligee shirts
    US1599968A (en) * 1925-11-12 1926-09-14 Lipman Sigmund Shirt
    US2705806A (en) * 1954-05-05 1955-04-12 Williamson Charles Donovan Shirt
    US3009161A (en) * 1960-03-11 1961-11-21 Lesavoy Ely Unitary insert structure for shirts and the like
    US4011599A (en) * 1975-08-21 1977-03-15 Ralph Edwards Sportswear, Inc. Article of apparel collar and lapel construction

    Also Published As

    Publication number Publication date
    WO1997016081A1 (en) 1997-05-09
    US6112329A (en) 2000-09-05
    DE59604968D1 (en) 2000-05-18
    DE19540700A1 (en) 1997-05-07
    ATE191616T1 (en) 2000-04-15
    AU6512496A (en) 1997-05-22
    JP2000510538A (en) 2000-08-15
    EP0858268A1 (en) 1998-08-19

    Similar Documents

    Publication Publication Date Title
    WO1988007334A1 (en) Shorts or short skirt with inner briefs
    DE1785428C3 (en) Children's one-piece pajamas and process for its manufacture
    DD239717A5 (en) SHORT SLIP AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE
    EP1701625B1 (en) Menswear garment having a type of athletic support
    DE2421025A1 (en) TROUSERS WITH EXTENSIBLE BAND
    DE2151212B2 (en) COLLAR FOR SHIRTS
    EP0858268B1 (en) Shirt with collar
    DE1610612C3 (en) Foot part, in particular for children's pajamas or the like., And method for its production
    EP0020676B1 (en) Collar for garment
    DE903081C (en) Garment and method of making the same
    DE2146800A1 (en) Fully contoured, highly stabilized underpants-like garment and method for making the same
    DE102016004469B4 (en) Additional perforated strip for subsequent insertion in clothing
    DE2008870A1 (en)
    DE2722185A1 (en) SHIRT COLLAR
    DE3446326C2 (en)
    EP1137346B1 (en) Buttonless collar
    DE853132C (en) Pants with zipper
    DE102008055151A1 (en) Shirt i.e. women shirt, has connection elements that are designed such that connection elements are selectively brought manually to opened or closed condition, where connection elements are provided in fixing element
    DE614386C (en) Women's trousers made from a knitted tube and method for their manufacture
    DE3325997A1 (en) Men's briefs
    AT523043A4 (en) clothing
    DE3687528T2 (en) SHIRT WITH NECK OPENING.
    DE2937100A1 (en) Shirt front with folded edges broadening towards collar - and secured in collar seam for improved open-neck appearance
    DE7833706U1 (en) SHIRT-LIKE CLOTHING
    DE2819337A1 (en) Reversible tie - has two outer layers disposed about stiffening layer with one layer folded about marginal edges of stiffening layer and seamed to it

    Legal Events

    Date Code Title Description
    PUAI Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase

    Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012

    17P Request for examination filed

    Effective date: 19980313

    AK Designated contracting states

    Kind code of ref document: A1

    Designated state(s): AT BE CH DE FR GB LI NL

    GRAG Despatch of communication of intention to grant

    Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOS AGRA

    GRAG Despatch of communication of intention to grant

    Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOS AGRA

    GRAH Despatch of communication of intention to grant a patent

    Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOS IGRA

    17Q First examination report despatched

    Effective date: 19990304

    GRAH Despatch of communication of intention to grant a patent

    Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOS IGRA

    GRAA (expected) grant

    Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009210

    AK Designated contracting states

    Kind code of ref document: B1

    Designated state(s): AT BE CH DE FR GB LI NL

    PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: GB

    Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

    Effective date: 20000412

    REF Corresponds to:

    Ref document number: 191616

    Country of ref document: AT

    Date of ref document: 20000415

    Kind code of ref document: T

    REG Reference to a national code

    Ref country code: CH

    Ref legal event code: EP

    REF Corresponds to:

    Ref document number: 59604968

    Country of ref document: DE

    Date of ref document: 20000518

    ET Fr: translation filed
    GBT Gb: translation of ep patent filed (gb section 77(6)(a)/1977)

    Effective date: 20000929

    PLBE No opposition filed within time limit

    Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009261

    STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

    Free format text: STATUS: NO OPPOSITION FILED WITHIN TIME LIMIT

    26N No opposition filed
    PGFP Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: GB

    Payment date: 20011015

    Year of fee payment: 6

    PGFP Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: FR

    Payment date: 20011020

    Year of fee payment: 6

    PGFP Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: BE

    Payment date: 20011025

    Year of fee payment: 6

    PGFP Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: NL

    Payment date: 20011031

    Year of fee payment: 6

    REG Reference to a national code

    Ref country code: GB

    Ref legal event code: IF02

    PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: BE

    Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

    Effective date: 20020731

    BERE Be: lapsed

    Owner name: *DANIELS & KORFF G.M.B.H.

    Effective date: 20020731

    PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: NL

    Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

    Effective date: 20030201

    GBPC Gb: european patent ceased through non-payment of renewal fee

    Effective date: 20020719

    PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: FR

    Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

    Effective date: 20030331

    NLV4 Nl: lapsed or anulled due to non-payment of the annual fee

    Effective date: 20030201

    REG Reference to a national code

    Ref country code: FR

    Ref legal event code: ST

    PGFP Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: CH

    Payment date: 20110725

    Year of fee payment: 16

    PGFP Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: AT

    Payment date: 20120720

    Year of fee payment: 17

    REG Reference to a national code

    Ref country code: CH

    Ref legal event code: PL

    REG Reference to a national code

    Ref country code: AT

    Ref legal event code: MM01

    Ref document number: 191616

    Country of ref document: AT

    Kind code of ref document: T

    Effective date: 20130719

    PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: LI

    Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

    Effective date: 20130731

    Ref country code: CH

    Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

    Effective date: 20130731

    PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: AT

    Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

    Effective date: 20130719

    PGFP Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

    Ref country code: DE

    Payment date: 20160201

    Year of fee payment: 20

    REG Reference to a national code

    Ref country code: DE

    Ref legal event code: R071

    Ref document number: 59604968

    Country of ref document: DE