EP0739619B1 - Schäumende Emulsion auf der Basis von nicht-ionischen Tensiden, einer Fettphase und einem vernetzten anionischen oder kationischen Polymer zur topischen Anwendung - Google Patents

Schäumende Emulsion auf der Basis von nicht-ionischen Tensiden, einer Fettphase und einem vernetzten anionischen oder kationischen Polymer zur topischen Anwendung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0739619B1
EP0739619B1 EP96400706A EP96400706A EP0739619B1 EP 0739619 B1 EP0739619 B1 EP 0739619B1 EP 96400706 A EP96400706 A EP 96400706A EP 96400706 A EP96400706 A EP 96400706A EP 0739619 B1 EP0739619 B1 EP 0739619B1
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EP
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Prior art keywords
emulsion according
oil
chosen
foaming
weight
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Expired - Lifetime
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EP96400706A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP0739619A1 (de
Inventor
Laurence Sebillotte-Arnaud
Emmanuelle Ambrosini
Pascal Arnaud
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5424—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge anionic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to foaming oil-in-water emulsions under form of cream based on nonionic surfactants, a specific fatty phase and of a crosslinked polymer consisting of an unsaturated cationic or anionic monomer ethylenic and their uses in topical application in particular in cosmetics and dermatology.
  • Foaming skin cleansing creams soft to the touch, come in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing detergent surfactants and foaming.
  • the oily phase makes it possible to soften the skin after rinsing.
  • the oily phase tends to inhibit the foaming properties of these formulations; we says it "breaks" the foam. It is therefore introduced into foaming creams at low concentrations, generally less than 5% by weight.
  • the surfactant systems used in foaming creams are generally mainly consisting of anionic surfactants. Despite their foaming power and their good detergency, the anionic surfactants have a certain potential irritant to the skin and eyes and are incompatible with large number of gelling agents.
  • anionic surfactants are combined with surfactants amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactants.
  • the patent application WO 93/19149 describes foaming cleaning compositions containing a system surfactant consisting of anionic surfactants combined with amphoteric surfactants in the presence of an oil which is not soluble in water and / or of a wax.
  • the main objective of the invention is to be able to produce foaming creams based on an exclusively nonionic foaming surfactant system, which may contain large quantities of oil without damaging the foaming power.
  • foaming cosmetic compositions comprising at least one nonionic surfactant of the alkylpolyglucoside and / or polyglycerolated type and at least one crosslinked copolymer maleic anhydride / alkyl vinyl ether and optionally an oil in very low proportions. This document does not describe foaming creams.
  • EP-642781 illustrates another aspect of this same principle by describing non-foaming creams, acids, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, stable, including a nonionic surfactant system, large amounts of oil and as stabilizing agent, acrylamide / 2-acrylamido propane sulfonic acid copolymers cross-linked.
  • the compositions described in this document do not foam.
  • compositions for cleaning the skin in the form of oil-in-water emulsions comprising an HLB surfactant greater than or equal to 10, an oily phase comprising a polyalphaolefin and a carboxylic copolymer comprising 95.9 to 98.8% by weight of monoolefinically unsaturated monomer, chosen from acrylic, methacrylic and ethacrylic acids and 1 to 3.5% of a methacrylic or ethacrylic acrylic acid ester with a C 10 -C 30 alcohol.
  • These compositions have the drawback of having a sticky feel, a stringy appearance and an elastic behavior. In addition, their foaming power is insufficient.
  • the compositions according to the present invention remedy these drawbacks of the prior art.
  • the foaming creams according to the invention are stable on storage, have excellent foaming properties, better tolerance and harmlessness towards of the skin and eyes compared to known foaming compositions, and good cosmetic properties when taken and when touched.
  • compositions of the invention may contain amounts of oils important up to 6 to 10 times the amount of surfactants non-ionic present in the formulation, without significantly affecting the potency foaming and stability of the compositions.
  • the foaming nonionic surfactants used according to the present invention are chosen among the nonionic surfactants having a foaming power characterized by a foam height greater than 100 mm; preferably greater than 120 mm measured according to the ROSS-MILES method for a 0.1% by weight solution of surfactant in distilled water at 25 ° C.
  • the compounds of formula (I) are described in patent FR 2 091 516. They are obtained by polycondensation of an ⁇ -diol with a fatty chain on glycidol.
  • R denotes a radical alkyl or a mixture of alkyl radicals containing from 9 to 12 carbon atoms and n represents an average statistical value ranging from 3 to 4.
  • polyglycerolated dodecanediol containing 3.5 moles of glycerol sold under the name CHIMEXANE NF by the company CHIMEX.
  • the compounds of formula (II) are described in particular in application WO 94/27562.
  • the preferred compounds are those for which the radical R 1 is a C 8 -C 16 alkyl radical and more particularly those whose degree of polymerization is 1.4 or 1.6.
  • compositions according to the invention can additionally contain nonionic surfactants foaming silicones such as glucoside group polydimethyl-siloxanes like SLM SPG 120 from WACKER or polydimethylsiloxane derivatives containing alkylphosphobetaines such as PECOSIL SPB-1240 from the company U.C.I.B.
  • nonionic surfactants foaming silicones such as glucoside group polydimethyl-siloxanes like SLM SPG 120 from WACKER or polydimethylsiloxane derivatives containing alkylphosphobetaines such as PECOSIL SPB-1240 from the company U.C.I.B.
  • the parameters dD, dP, dH and dA are expressed in (J / cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the oily phase comprises at least one oil such as 15.5 ⁇ dD ⁇ 18.0 and 0 ⁇ dA ⁇ 6.5.
  • the parameters dD and dA meet the condition: 16.0 ⁇ dD ⁇ 18.0 and 0 ⁇ dA ⁇ 5.5.
  • the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention may also contain other types of oils that do not meet the conditions of the solubility parameters according to HANSEN determined above such as for example: triglycerides of acids caprylic / capric, octyl-dodecanol, isohexadecane.
  • oils are preferably present in the oily phase at concentrations less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the oily phase therefore comprises from 85 to 100% of oil meeting the conditions relating to the parameters dD and dA defined above.
  • the crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers used in the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one cationic or anionic unsaturated monomer ethylenic and an ethylenically polyunsaturated crosslinking agent.
  • the anionic monomer is chosen in particular from (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) ammonium acrylate and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid as well as its salts.
  • the cationic monomer is chosen in particular from dialkylaminoalkyl- (meth) acrylates, preferably dimethylamino-ethylmethacrylate; dialkylaminoalkyl- (meth) acrylamides as well as their quaternary or acid salts; the alkyl radicals preferably being C 1 -C 4 .
  • crosslinked copolymers according to the invention preferably comprising a nonionic co-monomer, chosen from methacrylamide, acrylamide and esters of (meth) acrylic acid of C 10 -C 30 .
  • the crosslinking agents containing ethylenic polyunsaturation are preferably chosen. among divinylbenzene; tetraallyloxyethane; diallyl ether; ethers polyglyceryl polyallylics; allyl ethers of sugar series alcohols such as erythrytol, pentaerythrytol, arabitol, sorbitol or glucose; methylene-bis-acrylamide, ethylene glycol di- (meth) acrylate, di- (meth) acrylamide, cyanomethylacrylate, vinyloxyethyl- (meth) acrylate or their metal salts.
  • divinylbenzene tetraallyloxyethane
  • diallyl ether ethers polyglyceryl polyallylics
  • allyl ethers of sugar series alcohols such as erythrytol, pentaerythrytol, arabitol, sorbitol or glucose
  • methylene-bis-acrylamide
  • compositions of the invention are present in the compositions of the invention at concentrations in matter active preferably ranging from 0.2 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 8% by weight and more particularly from 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention can additionally contain nonionic surfactants emulsifiers such as oxyethylenated alkylphenols as the product sold under the name NIKKOL HCO (oxyethylenated hydrogenated ricinoleic triglycerides (60 EO)) by the company NIKKOL or the product sold under the name SOLUBILISANT LRI (alcohol butyl oxyethylenated (26OE)) with a mixture of hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylenated (40 EO) and water (54/36) by the company WACKER.
  • NIKKOL HCO oxyethylenated hydrogenated ricinoleic triglycerides (60 EO)
  • SOLUBILISANT LRI alcohol butyl oxyethylenated (26OE)
  • SOLUBILISANT LRI alcohol butyl oxyethylenated (26OE)
  • SOLUBILISANT LRI alco
  • compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain, in addition, agents thickeners with a low flow threshold, namely able to flow under their own weight and having a low gelling power.
  • agents thickeners with a low flow threshold, namely able to flow under their own weight and having a low gelling power.
  • the natural gelling agents such as galactomannans such as guar and carob; the carrageenans such as D-galactopyrranose (AUBYGUM X2 product sold by the SANOFI company); sodium alginates (polymannuronate and guluronate); cellulose and its derivatives such as methylcellulose, propylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose ; xanthan gums such as those consisting of D-glucose, D-mannose and D-glucuronic acid; polysaccharides rich in fucose such as FUCOGEL 1000 product sold by SOLABIA.
  • compositions according to the invention can also contain synergists of foams such as alkanolamides such as monoethanolamides and dialcanolamides and more particularly monoisopropanolamides, diethanolamides; alkylamidodimethylamines ; derivatives of amine oxides such as oxides alkyldimethylamine, oxyldihydroxyethylamine oxides, oxides alkylamidomethylamine, alkylamidohydroxyethylamine oxides, oxides of alkylamido-hydroxyethylamine. They are present, preferably in concentrations less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • synergists of foams such as alkanolamides such as monoethanolamides and dialcanolamides and more particularly monoisopropanolamides, diethanolamides; alkylamidodimethylamines ; derivatives of amine oxides such as oxides alkyldimethylamine, oxyldihydroxye
  • compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain in the phase oily one or more lipophilic cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients such as by examples of anti-free radical agents, ceramides; formulation additives lipophiles such as preservatives, antioxidants, scented oils.
  • lipophilic cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients such as by examples of anti-free radical agents, ceramides; formulation additives lipophiles such as preservatives, antioxidants, scented oils.
  • compositions according to the invention can additionally contain, in the aqueous medium, commonly used hydrophilic cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients such as polyols such as glycerin, tri-chloro-2,4,4'-hydroxy-2'-diphenyl ether, the salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-tri-methylpentyl-6 pyridone-2 (or piroctone) monoethanolamine olamine) such as the product OCTOPYROX sold by the company HOECHST, alpha-hydroxy acids, keratolytic agents such as urea, salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid, anti-bacteria, antiseborrhoeics, anti-dandruff.
  • active ingredients such as polyols such as glycerin, tri-chloro-2,4,4'-hydroxy-2'-diphenyl ether, the salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-tri-methylpentyl-6 pyri
  • They may contain additives of conventional formulation such as pigments, pearlescent agents, mineral or organic fillers such as talc, kaolin, silica or polyethylene powders, hollow thermoplastic particles expanded such as the product EXPANCEL 550 DE 20 sold by the company NOBEL CASCO.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably have a viscosity ranging from 1.5 at 6 Pa.s and more preferably ranging from 2.5 to 4 Pa.s.
  • compositions according to the invention in the form of a cream produce in contact with water sufficiently abundant mosses.
  • Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic composition or dermatological cleaning of the skin, mucous membranes, hair or leather hair, consisting of a foaming cream as defined above.
  • the foaming creams of the invention can be used as a product base cleaning / makeup removal of the skin, eyes and / or face.
  • the foaming creams of the invention can also be used as bases hair or scalp cleaning and care products such as two-in-one shampoos.
  • the foaming creams of the invention can also be used as bases hygienic and skin and / or body care products such as two-in-one shower.
  • Another subject of the invention consists of a method for cleaning the skin, mucous membranes, the scalp characterized by the fact that the foaming cream is applied on the skin, mucous membranes, scalp or hair in the presence of water and that removes foam and dirt residue by simply rinsing with water.
  • diluted test composition 2.5 g are placed in a 400 ml top beaker in 50 ml of water.
  • a foam is formed by stirring the composition in solution for 6 minutes at 1320 rpm using a TURBOTEST 10-14 RAYNERI device fitted with a centripetal stem with diameters 30-40-55 cm; this being placed eccentrically at left in the beaker.
  • the product obtained is then transferred into a 500 ml test tube with 2.5 ml error.
  • compositions of Examples 1 to 7 have satisfactory foaming properties.
  • compositions of Examples 8 to 14 have properties satisfactory foaming.
  • compositions tested have for formulation: - nonionic surfactant of formula (I) CHIMEXANE NF 5.0 g - parameter oil dA, dD 25.0 g - CARBOPOL 980 crosslinked acrylic homopolymer gelling agent 0.9 g - water qs 100.0 g

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Detergent Compositions (AREA)

Claims (29)

  1. Schäumende Öl-in-Wasser-Emulsion in Form einer Creme, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie in einem wäßrigen Medium mindestens folgende Bestandteile enthält:
    a) 5 bis 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, eines ausschließlich nicht-ionogenen oberflächenaktiven Systems, das mindestens ein schäumendes nicht-ionogenes Tensid enthält;
    b) 10 bis 50 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, einer öligen Phase, die mindestens ein in Wasser nicht-lösliches Öl enthält, deren Löslichkeitsparameter dD, dP und dH gemäß dem Löslichkeitsraum nach HANSEN folgende Bedingungen erfüllen: 15,5 (J/cm3)½ ≤ dD ≤ 18,0 (J/cm3)½ und 0 (J/cm3)½ ≤ dA ≤ 6,5 (J/cm3)½ mit dA = (dP2 + dH2)½;
    c) als gelbildendes Mittel mindestens ein vernetztes Homopolymeres oder Copolymeres, das aus mindestens einem kationischen oder anionischen Monomeren mit einer ungesättigten ethylenischen Bindung und einem mehrfach ethylenisch ungesättigten Vernetzungsmittel gebildet worden ist, mit der Ausnahme von Copolymeren, die einen überwiegenden Anteil mindestens einer olefinisch ungesättigten C3-C6-Säure und einen untergeordneten Anteil mindestens eines Esters einer olefinisch ungesättigten C3-C6-Säure mit einem C10-C30-Alkohol enthalten.
  2. Emulsion nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie folgende Bestandteile umfaßt:
    a) 5 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, eines ausschließlich nicht-ionogenen oberflächenaktiven Systems, das mindestens ein schäumendes nicht-ionogenes Tensid enthält;
    b) 10 bis 30 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, einer öligen Phase, die mindestens ein in Wasser nicht-lösliches Öl enthält, deren Löslichkeitsparameter der Definition in Anspruch 1 entsprechen.
  3. Emulsion nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die schäumenden, nicht-ionischen Tenside ein nach der Methode von ROSS-MILES für eine Lösung von 0,1 Gew.-% in destilliertem Wasser von 25°C aufgrund der Schaumhöhe bestimmtes Schaumbildungsvermögen von mehr als 100 mm aufweisen.
  4. Emulsion nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die schäumenden, nicht-ionogenen Tenside ausgewählt sind unter:
    (i) Verbindungen der Formel: R---CHOH---CH2---O--[--CH2CHOH---CH2O--]n--H    worin R einen aliphatischen, cycloaliphatischen oder arylaliphatischen Rest mit 7 bis 21 Kohlenstoffatomen oder ein Gemisch derartiger Reste bedeutet, wobei die aliphatischen Ketten gesättigt oder ungesättigt sowie linear oder verzweigt sein können und Schwefel- oder Sauerstoffatome und insbesondere Ether-, Thioether- oder Hydroxymethylengruppen enthalten können; n eine beliebige ganze Zahl oder Dezimalzahl, die größer als 1 und kleiner oder gleich 10 ist, bedeutet und den Polymerisationsgrad bezeichnet;
    (ii) Verbindungen der Formel: R1O(G)p    worin R1 eine einwertige Kohlenwasserstoffkette mit 1 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen bedeutet, G ein Saccharidderivat mit 5 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen bedeutet und p einen statistischen Mittelwert von 1 bis 6 bedeutet;
    (iii) Gemische davon.
  5. Emulsion nach Anspruch 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Verbindungen der Formel (I) unter Verbindungen ausgewählt sind, in denen R einen C9-C12-Alkylrest oder ein Gemisch von derartigen Alkylresten bedeutet und n einen statistischen Wert von 3 bis 4 bedeutet.
  6. Emulsion nach Anspruch 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Verbindungen der Formel (II) unter Verbindungen ausgewählt sind, in denen R1 einen C8-C16-Alkylrest bedeutet und n einen Wert von 1,4 bis 1,6 hat.
  7. Emulsion nach Anspruch 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie zusätzlich schäumende, nicht-ionogene Tenside enthält, die unter Polydimethylsiloxanen mit Glucosidgruppen oder Polydimethylsiloxanderivaten mit Alkylphosphobetaingruppen ausgewählt sind.
  8. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie mindestens ein Öl enthält, daß unter Mineralölen, Ölen tierischen Ursprungs und synthetischen Ölen ausgewählt ist, die den Bedingungen bezüglich der Parameter dA und dD gemäß der Definition in Anspruch 1 entsprechen.
  9. Emulsion nach Anspruch 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Öl ausgewählt ist unter: Paraffinöl, Vaselinöl, Perhydrosqualen, Jojobaöl, Sesamöl, Rapsöl, Schibutter und seine flüssige Fraktion, Purcellinöl, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Octyldodecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylerucat, Isostearylisostearat und 2-Octyldodecylbenzoat sowie hydriertes Isoparaffin (6-8 Mol Isobutylen).
  10. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie mindestens ein Öl enthält, dessen Löslichkeitsparameter dA und dD die folgenden Bedingungen erfüllen: 16,0 (J/cm3)½ ≤ dD ≤ 18,0 (J/cm3)½ und 0 (J/cm3)½ ≤ dA ≤ 5,5 (J/cm3)½.
  11. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 10, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Ölphase 85 bis 100 Gew.-% eines Öls enthält, das die Bedingungen bezüglich dA und dD gemäß der Definition in den Ansprüchen 1 oder 10 erfüllt und 0 bis 15 Gew.-% eines Öls, das diese Bedingungen nicht erfüllt, enthält, wobei die prozentualen Anteile auf das Gesamtgewicht der öligen Phase bezogen sind.
  12. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 11, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das gelbildende Mittel aus einem vernetzten Homopolymeren oder Copolymeren besteht, das mindestens ein anionisches Monomeres enthält, das unter (Meth)acrylsäure, Ammonium(meth)acrylat, 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure und deren Salzen ausgewählt ist.
  13. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 12, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das gelbildende Mittel aus einem vernetzten Homopolymeren oder Copolymeren besteht, das mindestens ein kationisches Monomeres umfaßt, das unter Dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylaten, Dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylamiden sowie deren quaternären Salzen und deren Säuren ausgewählt ist, wobei es sich bei den Alkylresten vorzugsweise um C1-C4-Reste handelt.
  14. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 13, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das ethylenisch mehrfach ungesättigte Vernetzungsmittel ausgewählt ist unter: Divinylbenzol, Tetraallyloxyethan, Diallylether, Polyallylpolyglycerylether, Allylpolyglycerlyether, Allylether von Alkoholen der Zuckerreihe; Verbindungen aus der Gruppe Methylenbisacrylamid, Ethylenglycoldimethacrylat, Di(meth)acrylamid, Cyanomethacrylat, Vinyloxyethyl(meth)acrylat und deren Metallsalze.
  15. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 12 bis 14, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die vernetzten Copolymeren ein nichtionogenes Comonomeres umfassen, das unter Acrylamid, Methacrylamid oder C10-C30-(Meth)acrylsäureestern ausgewählt ist.
  16. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 15, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das gelbildende Mittel ausgewählt ist unter:
    (a) Homopolymeren von Acrylsäure, die mit einem Allylether eines Alkohols der Zuckerreihe vernetzt sind;
    (b) vernetzte Copolymere von partiell oder vollständig neutralisierter 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure und Acrylamid;
    (c) vernetzte Homopolymere von Ammoniumacrylat oder vernetzte Comonomere von Ammoniumacrylat und Acrylamid;
    (d) Homopolymere von Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, das mit Methylchlorid quaternisiert ist, oder Copolymere des gleichen Monomeren mit Acrylamid.
  17. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 16, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das gelbildende Mittel in Wirkstoffkonzentrationen von 0,8 bis 8 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Emulsion, vorhanden ist.
  18. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 17, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie zusätzlich emulgierende, nichtionogene Tenside enthält.
  19. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 18, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie zusätzlich mindestens ein Verdickungsmittel enthält, das einen geringen Fließschwellenwert und ein schwaches Gelbildungsvermögen aufweist.
  20. Emulsion nach Anspruch 19, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Verdickungsmittel ausgewählt ist unter: Galactomannanen; Carraghenanen; Natriumalginaten; Cellulose und ihren Derivaten; Xanthangummen; und Polysacchariden mit einem hohen Fucosegehalt.
  21. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 20, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie zusätzlich ein synergistisches Schaumbildungsmittel enthält.
  22. Emulsion nach Anspruch 21, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das synergistische Schaumbildungsmittel ausgewählt ist unter: Alkanolamiden, Alkylamidodimethylaminen und Derivate von Aminoxiden.
  23. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 22, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie zusätzlich folgendes enthält: lipophile oder hydrophile kosmetische oder dermatologische Wirkstoffe, Antioxidantien, Konservierungsmittel, Parfums, antibakterielle Mittel, Mittel gegen Seborrhoe, Antischuppenmittel, Pigmente, keratolytische Mittel, farbgebende Mittel, Glanzmittel, anorganische oder organische Füllstoffe.
  24. Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 23, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie eine Viskosität von 1,5 bis 6 Pa.s aufweist.
  25. Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzung zur Reinigung der Haut, der Schleimhäute, der Haare oder der Kopfhaut, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie aus einer Öl-in-Wasser-Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 23 besteht.
  26. Verwendung der Öl-in-Wasser-Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 24 als Grundlage für Reinigungs/Abschmink-Produkte der Haut, der Augen und/oder des Gesichts.
  27. Verwendung der Öl-in-Wasser-Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 24 als Grundlage für Reinigungs- und Pflegeprodukte für Haare.
  28. Verwendung der Öl-in-Wasser-Emulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 24 als Grundlage für Hygiene- und Pflegeprodukte der Haut und/oder des Körpers.
  29. Kosmetisches Verfahren zur Reinigung der Haut, der Schleimhäute, der Haare oder der Kopfhaut, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß man die Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 25 auf die Haut, die Schleimhäute, die Haare oder die Kopfhaut in Gegenwart von Wasser aufbringt und den gebildeten Schaum und die Schmutzreste durch einfaches Spülen mit Wasser entfernt.
EP96400706A 1995-04-25 1996-04-01 Schäumende Emulsion auf der Basis von nicht-ionischen Tensiden, einer Fettphase und einem vernetzten anionischen oder kationischen Polymer zur topischen Anwendung Expired - Lifetime EP0739619B1 (de)

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FR9504924A FR2733417B1 (fr) 1995-04-25 1995-04-25 Emulsion huile-dans-eau moussante a base de tensio-actifs non-ioniques, d'une phase grasse et d'un polymere cationique ou anionique reticule et utilisation en application topique
FR9504924 1995-04-25

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EP0739619A1 (de) 1996-10-30
FR2733417A1 (fr) 1996-10-31
DE69600140T2 (de) 1998-04-23
FR2733417B1 (fr) 1997-06-06
US6162834A (en) 2000-12-19
ES2114338T3 (es) 1998-05-16
US6579907B1 (en) 2003-06-17
JPH08302389A (ja) 1996-11-19
JP2911402B2 (ja) 1999-06-23
DE69600140D1 (de) 1998-02-19

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