EP0694641B1 - Procédé pour la fabrication d'une étoffe en tricot-chaíne à structure de nid d'abeilles et étoffe ainsi obtenue - Google Patents

Procédé pour la fabrication d'une étoffe en tricot-chaíne à structure de nid d'abeilles et étoffe ainsi obtenue Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0694641B1
EP0694641B1 EP94203511A EP94203511A EP0694641B1 EP 0694641 B1 EP0694641 B1 EP 0694641B1 EP 94203511 A EP94203511 A EP 94203511A EP 94203511 A EP94203511 A EP 94203511A EP 0694641 B1 EP0694641 B1 EP 0694641B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
fibrous component
needles
knitted
guide bar
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP94203511A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP0694641A1 (fr
Inventor
Giannangelo Cabrini
Andrea Pellegrini
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
MITI Manifattura Italiana Tessuti Indemagliabili SpA
Original Assignee
MITI Manifattura Italiana Tessuti Indemagliabili SpA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by MITI Manifattura Italiana Tessuti Indemagliabili SpA filed Critical MITI Manifattura Italiana Tessuti Indemagliabili SpA
Publication of EP0694641A1 publication Critical patent/EP0694641A1/fr
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10—Open-work fabrics

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a method for preparing a chain stitch fabric of honeycomb effect and high transpiring power, and the fabrics obtained thereby.
  • Fabrics of the aforesaid kind are used especially in making items of clothing for sporting use.
  • the chain stitch fabrics normally used for this purpose have their outer surface (known as the technical front) smooth, where the stitch loops and their dimensions are equal for all stitches pertaining to the same course and the lapping repeat is of two courses, and a uniform inner surface (technical back) where one of the components can undergo raising to obtain a pile fabric.
  • EP-A-0 429 802 discloses a textile fabric fabricated on a warp knitting machine wherein a set of yarns are knitted by the bottom guide bar, a set of yarns are knitted on the top guide bar and two set of yarns are knitted by a pair of middle guide bars.
  • An object of the present invention is to configure a method for producing a fabric which does not suffer from the aforesaid defects and has a pleasant appearance.
  • a further object ot the present invention is to provide a method which can be implemented on the plant and machinery normally used for manufacturing chain stitch fabrics without substantial and costly modification.
  • the fabric produced by the method of the invention has excellent transpirability characteristics, thus making it very suitable for use in sports clothing.
  • the stitch loops of one and the same course have different dimensions and a variable arrangement; the lapping repeat is greater than two courses so as to create a small design effect enhancing both appearance and air permeability.
  • Such a method is also very competitive economically firstly because of a more rational configuration and use of the starting raw materials (ie the fibrous components), secondly because conventional knitting machines can be used, and thirdly because of an improved final product yield, which can have a greater intrinsic value than products currently commercially available.
  • the fabric produced by the method of the invention not only has a totally novel appearance but also offers a top level of comfort.
  • Figure 1 shows the total lapping movements of the warp knitted fabric obtained by the production method of the present invention.
  • Figure 2 shows the construction of the fabric produced by the present invention.
  • a fabric is prepared starting from four fibrous components, of which:
  • the first component yarn is advantageously knitted with 1-2/1-0 notation
  • the second component yarn is knitted with 0-0/4-4 notation
  • the third component yarn is knitted with 1-0/2-3 notation
  • the fourth component yarn is knitted with 1-0/2-3/1-0/0-1 notation.
  • courses are obtained with some stitches formed from three components and others formed from a single component alternating with courses with stitches all formed from two components with pattern repetition every four courses (the second component with 0-0/4-4 lapping movement does not participate in stitch formation).
  • Figure 2 shows the path of each component yarn as appearing in the fabric. Visible on the technical front are the first component (continuous line) which operates in all stitches, and the third component (dashed line) and fourth component (dashed and dotted line) which operate individually in some stitches and coupled in others. The second component (double line) is visible on the technical back, this not participating in stitch formation but being bound by the third and fourth component.
  • the fabric obtained by the method of the present invention has a smooth side (front) and a napped side (back).
  • the fabric can be dyed and finished by the methods usually used for chain stitch fabrics.
  • the filaments of the second component are raised to form a pile.
  • various fibrous components can be used for producing the fabric.
  • the first, third and fourth component it is usual to use a synthetic or artificial continuous filament yarn with denier value between 22 and 77 decitex.
  • the second component is of synthetic, artificial or natural continuous or discontinuous filament yarn of denier value between 75 and 230 decitex.
  • the fabric produced by the present method advantageously has a weight per square metre of between 80 and 197 grams.
  • a 28 gauge four bar warp knitting machine with sliding needles is loaded with 3480 threads in guide bars 1 and 2 and with 1740 threads in guide bars 3 and 4.
  • Bright polyamide 6 44 dtex 12 filament yarn of three-lobe cross-section is used in guide bars 1, 3 and 4, and dull polyester 130 dtex 60 filament yarn of circular cross-section is used in guide bar 2.
  • the knitting machine is set for the following conditions: Notation Run-in (mm/rack) Guide bar 1 1-2/1-0 1340 Guide bar 2 0-0/4-4 780 Guide bar 3 1-0/2-3 1690 Guide bar 4 1-0/2-3/1-0/0-1 1690
  • the fabric was dyed with an apparatus for dying in rope form, dried, raised and heat-set at 190° in a 10 range stenter.
  • the fabric obtained has a weight per square metre of 188 grams plus or minus 5%, and a height of 152 cm.
  • Example 1 The knitting machine used in Example 1 is loaded with 3480 threads in guide bars 1 and 2 and with 1740 threads in guide bars 3 and 4.
  • Semi-dull polyamide 5 44 dtex 10 filament yarn of circular cross-section is used in guide bars 1, 3 and 4, and dull polyester 130 dtex 60 filament yarn of circular cross-section is used in guide bar 2.
  • the knitting machine is set for the following conditions: Notation Run-in (mm/rack) Guide bar 1 1-2/1-0 1340 Guide bar 2 0-0/4-4 780 Guide bar 3 1-0/2-3 1690 Guide bar 4 1-0/2-3/1-0/0-1 1690
  • the fabric was dyed with an apparatus for dying in rope form, dried, raised and heat-set at 190° in a 10 range stenter.
  • the fabric obtained has a weight per square metre of 188 grams plus or minus 5%, and a height of 152 cm.
  • Example 1 The knitting machine used in Example 1 is loaded with 3480 threads in guide bars 1 and 2 and with 1740 threads in guide bars 3 and 4.
  • Semi-dull polyester 50 dtex 24 filament yarn of circular cross-section is used in guide bars 1, 3 and 4
  • semi-dull polyester 75 dtex 24 filament yarn of circular cross-section is used in guide bar 2.
  • the knitting machine is set for the following conditions: Notation Run-in (mm/rack) Guide bar 1 1-2/1-0 1290 Guide bar 2 0-0/4-4 800 Guide bar 3 1-0/2-3 1590 Guide bar 4 1-0/2-3/1-0/0-1 1590
  • the fabric was dyed with an apparatus for dying in rope form, dried, raised and heat-set at 215° in a 10 range stenter.
  • the fabric obtained has a weight per square metre of 187 grams plus or minus 5%, and a height of 152 cm.
  • the knitting machine used in Example 1 is loaded with 3480 threads in guide bars 1 and 2 and with 1740 threads in guide bars 3 and 4.
  • Bright polyester 50 dtex 36 filament yarn of three-lobe cross-section is used in guide bars 1, 3 and 4, and semi-dull polyester 75 dtex 24 filament yarn of circular cross-section is used in guide bar 2.
  • the knitting machine is set for the following conditions: Notation Run-in (mm/rack) Guide bar 1 1-2/1-0 1290 Guide bar 2 0-0/4-4 800 Guide bar 3 1-0/2-3 1590 Guide bar 4 1-0/2-3/1-0/0-1 1590
  • the fabric was dyed with an apparatus for dying in rope form, dried, raised and heat-set at 215° in a 10 range stenter.
  • the fabric obtained has a weight per square metre of 187 grams plus or minus 5%, and a height of 152 cm.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Claims (11)

  1. Procédé pour la fabrication, sur un métier à tricoter, d'une étoffe en tricot-chaíne comportant un premier composant fibreux, un deuxième composant fibreux, un troisième composant fibreux et un quatrième composant fibreux, caractérisé par le fait que ladite étoffe est élaborée avec une structure cellulaire ou en nid d'abeilles, dans lequel
    ledit premier composant fibreux est tricoté dans l'étoffe avec notation 1-2/1-0,
    ledit deuxième composant fibreux est tricoté dans l'étoffe avec notation 0-0/4-4,
    ledit troisième composant fibreux est tricoté dans l'étoffe avec notation 1-0/2-3, et
    ledit quatrième composant fibreux est tricoté dans l'étoffe avec notation 1-0/2-3/1-0/0-1.
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le fait que lesdits premier, troisième et quatrième composants fibreux sont constitués d'un fil synthétique filamenteux continu.
  3. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le fait que lesdits premier, troisième et quatrième composants fibreux sont constitués d'un fil' artificiel filamenteux continu.
  4. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le fait que ledit deuxième composant fibreux est constitué d'un filament continu.
  5. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le fait que ledit deuxième composant fibreux est constitué d'un filament discontinu.
  6. Procédé selon la revendication 4 ou 5, caractérisé par le fait que ledit deuxième composant fibreux est constitué d'un fil synthétique.
  7. Procédé selon la revendication 4 ou 5, caractérisé par le fait que ledit deuxième composant fibreux est constitué d'un fil artificiel.
  8. Procédé selon la revendication 4 ou 5, caractérisé par le fait que ledit deuxième composant fibreux est constitué d'un fil naturel.
  9. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le fait que lesdits premier, troisième et quatrième composants fibreux présentent une valeur de denier comprise entre 22 et 77 décitex.
  10. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le fait que ledit deuxième composant fibreux présente une valeur de denier comprise entre 75 et 230 décitex.
  11. Etoffe produite par le procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle présente un poids compris entre 80 et 197 grammes par mètre carré.
EP94203511A 1994-07-14 1994-12-03 Procédé pour la fabrication d'une étoffe en tricot-chaíne à structure de nid d'abeilles et étoffe ainsi obtenue Expired - Lifetime EP0694641B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITMI941474A IT1270619B (it) 1994-07-14 1994-07-14 Metodo per la preparazione di un tessuto a maglia in catena ad armatura alveolare e tessuto cosi' ottenuto
ITMI941474 1994-07-14

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0694641A1 EP0694641A1 (fr) 1996-01-31
EP0694641B1 true EP0694641B1 (fr) 1999-06-02

Family

ID=11369280

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP94203511A Expired - Lifetime EP0694641B1 (fr) 1994-07-14 1994-12-03 Procédé pour la fabrication d'une étoffe en tricot-chaíne à structure de nid d'abeilles et étoffe ainsi obtenue

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0694641B1 (fr)
DE (1) DE69418869T2 (fr)
ES (1) ES2100823T3 (fr)
IT (1) IT1270619B (fr)

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
NL6409907A (fr) * 1964-08-27 1966-02-28
GB2159843A (en) * 1984-06-09 1985-12-11 Burlington Fabrics Warp knitted fabric
US5065600A (en) * 1989-11-30 1991-11-19 Guilford Mills, Inc. Textile fabric with opposed absorbent and non-absorbent layers and method of fabricating same

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE69418869T2 (de) 1999-12-09
ITMI941474A1 (it) 1996-01-14
DE69418869D1 (de) 1999-07-08
EP0694641A1 (fr) 1996-01-31
ITMI941474A0 (it) 1994-07-14
ES2100823T3 (es) 1999-08-16
IT1270619B (it) 1997-05-07
ES2100823T1 (es) 1997-07-01

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