EP0653507B2 - Lace and method of its manufacture - Google Patents

Lace and method of its manufacture Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0653507B2
EP0653507B2 EP94490020A EP94490020A EP0653507B2 EP 0653507 B2 EP0653507 B2 EP 0653507B2 EP 94490020 A EP94490020 A EP 94490020A EP 94490020 A EP94490020 A EP 94490020A EP 0653507 B2 EP0653507 B2 EP 0653507B2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
columns
threads
lace
along
pile
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
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EP94490020A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0653507B1 (en
EP0653507A1 (en
Inventor
Yasuhiko Room No. 305 Motoya
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Sakae Lace Co Ltd
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Sakae Lace Co Ltd
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Priority claimed from JP5286329A external-priority patent/JP2735783B2/en
Application filed by Sakae Lace Co Ltd filed Critical Sakae Lace Co Ltd
Publication of EP0653507A1 publication Critical patent/EP0653507A1/en
Publication of EP0653507B1 publication Critical patent/EP0653507B1/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10Open-work fabrics
    • D04B21/12Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/02Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0111One hairy surface, e.g. napped or raised

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a knitted lace which is characterized by the fact that it is composed of columns formed from knitted warp yarns constituting, for example, meshes; she is also composed of proximity loops connected one to others appropriately along those columns using weft threads; it finally includes transparent holes of predetermined shape.
  • the current The invention also relates to a manufacturing method knitted lace above.
  • This type of knitted lace made for example from chemical fibers has the advantage of difficult to navigate and to allow the formation of net patterns specific to lace.
  • said lace is used for women's lingerie and that the surface that features the grounds is put directly into contact with the skin, its quality of touch, its ability absorption of perspiration leave something to be desired. From this done, in order to improve the quality of touch and ability absorption of perspiration, it is usual to stick upside down knitted lace a mesh lining made for example of cotton yarn which presents excellent touch qualities and good ability absorption of perspiration.
  • this structure has the major disadvantage to harm the aesthetic appearance of lace patterns because through the transparent holes forming said patterns lace one glimpses the mesh lining. This disadvantage is further accentuated in the case where the lining has a high density of cotton threads in view improve the absorption capacity of perspiration.
  • the qualities of touch and ability absorption of perspiration from the lace according to invention are made either by designing a particular knitting structure of the yarns constituting the columns either by processing the knitted lace.
  • the lace further comprises interlaced hair strands and disposed along said columns so as to form bristles which are projected outwards and along said columns.
  • threads of hair, intertwined along the columns are projected outward said columns, for example are projected towards the side that corresponds to the underside of the surface on which are interwoven the son intended for the realization patterns of lace.
  • the knitted lace of the invention has a touch pleasant.
  • use as hair strands cotton yarn with excellent absorbency perspiration improves the capacity absorption of perspiration from the lace in its screen.
  • the protrusions formed outwards by the threads of hair are lain.
  • This woolen effect has the effect to further improve the quality of touch and the ability absorption of perspiration from the lace.
  • the pile threads and the elastic threads are interlaced along the columns. More precisely the elastic threads are intertwined in extension while the sons of bristles are while reserving the second part that is intended to be transformed into hair. This second part is not intertwined with the columns. As a result, narrowing of the elastic yarns after knitting, this second part comes out of the knitted lace to form the hairs that are sought according to the invention.
  • the knitted lace 100 which is illustrated in the figures consists of three parts: a united part 101, a patterned portion 102 and a bristle portion 103.
  • the united part 101 results from the interlacing of wires chain 5 and weft son 6.
  • the patterned part 102 consists of the threads are intended for the realization of patterns 11 and which are intertwined on the surface of the united part 101.
  • the bristle portion 103 is constituted by the bristles 8 which are intertwined on the back of the united part 101.
  • the respective thickness of these three parts is notably between 0.5 to 1mm for the united part 101, between 1 and 2mm for the patterned part 102 and between 0.5 and 1 mm for the bristles 103.
  • the United part 101 is first formed by interlacing a succession chain son 5, for example polyamide, to create columns 1, and by connecting loops 2 of proximity to each other in an appropriate manner with weft threads 6, for example polyamide, to create apparent holes 3,4 of form predetermined.
  • a succession chain son 5 for example polyamide
  • weft threads 6, for example polyamide to create apparent holes 3,4 of form predetermined.
  • the lace 7 has a pretty lace look.
  • the part to patterns 102 and the bristles 103 are formed of such so that they are intertwined with the united part 101. In during knitting, these operations take place simultaneously.
  • Figure 2 clearly illustrates that the patterned part 102 is created by interlacing the wires 11 intended for the realization motifs.
  • the lace knitted fabric has a structure according to which the threads 11, intended for to the realization of the reasons, stand out on the surface lace 7; it is then possible to make patterns of flowers on the surface of the lace 7 following a predetermined drawing.
  • the bristles 103 consists of forming meshes according to a column 1 by interlacing a warp thread 5 and interlacing then in each of the said meshes and along the columns 1 a succession of hair threads 8 and a succession elastic threads 9.
  • This may include elastic yarns known as Spun-tex.
  • the pile yarn 8 is interlaced every three loops 2 in the same column 1 so to appear only on the back of the lace 7 part 8 a yarn 8 which is to be transformed into hair. It is this part which has 8 after retraction of the elastic thread 9 creates the hairs 10.
  • son of bristles 8 is generally used a cotton thread to get a good quality feel and good capacity to absorb perspiration.
  • Part 8 has 8 wire to be transformed into hair and is projected upside down lace 7 then undergoes a wool treatment.
  • the embodiment of the knitted lace according to the invention is as follows.
  • the woolen is provided as rotating means of laundering a succession of rollers 12 arranged parallel to each other such as rolls having a needle seal or emery rollers etc. . These rollers are brought into contact with the bristle portion 103 located on the back of the lace. Conveyor rollers 13 have the dual function of firstly creating a suitable tension on the lace 7 and secondly displacing the latter in the opposite direction to that of the rotation of the wool rollers 12.
  • the bristles 10 are lain by the rollers 12 which rotate in the direction of formation of the columns 11 constituting the united part 101.
  • This woolen technique has several advantages. It avoids any contact between on one hand the needles or protrusions 12a fixed respectively to the roller seal or emery rollers 12, which the wool and secondly the son Chain 5 and the frame 6 constituting the son part United 101. Thus there is no risk of damage to the plain part 101 of the lace. In addition, this technique makes it possible to ensure excellent washing of the bristles 10.
  • the plaintiff has found that by carrying out the knitted lace according to the invention, that is to say by interlacing the pile threads 8 along the columns 1 formed by warp yarns 5 while projecting a part 8a of the pile threads 8 towards the outside of the lace 7, there was no deterioration of the aesthetic appearance clean to the lace.
  • the plaintiff thus obtained a lace which excels at the same time in aesthetic aspect, in terms of touch and absorption capacity of the sweat.
  • the present invention is not limited to the mode of realization which has just been described. It can cover in particular the following variants.
  • the knitted lace according to the invention may comprise apparent holes of about the same size and arranged at regular intervals, on just about any the surface. It can be a knitted lace without wires 11 for making patterns 101. Holes Apparent can be created by interlacing the wires of chain forming the neighboring columns.
  • warp threads and weft were polyamide yarns. It is however possible to replace them with polyester threads, silk, cotton etc.
  • sons of bristles of polyamide are also possible to use as sons of bristles of polyamide, polyester, rayon yarn etc. and as yarns for making patterns of threads polyamide, polyester, cotton, silk, rayon, wool etc.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Braiding, Manufacturing Of Bobbin-Net Or Lace, And Manufacturing Of Nets By Knotting (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The woven lace of the invention is composed: a) of columns (1) formed by woven warp threads (5), b) of proximity loops (2) connected to one another in a suitable way along the said columns (1) by means of weft threads (6), c) of visible holes (3) and (4) of predetermined form, d) of pile threads (8), if appropriate napped, which are interlaced and arranged along the said columns (1), in such a way that they are projected towards the outside of the said columns (1), e) and, if appropriate, interlaced elastic threads (9) along the said columns (1). A preferred method involves: a) interlacing along the columns (1) in the extension of the elastic threads (9), b) interlacing pile threds (8), whilst producing a part (8a) intended to be converted into piles along the said columns (1) and towards the outside of the said columns (1), but without the said part (8a) being interlaced with the said columns (1), c) taking advantage of the shrinkage of the elastic threads (9) after weaving, converting the said part (8a) into piles (10) formed on the side of the said columns (1). <IMAGE>

Description

La présente invention concerne une dentelle tricotée qui se caractérise par le fait qu'elle est composée de colonnes formées à partir de fils de chaíne tricotés constituant par exemple des mailles ; elle est également composée de boucles de proximité connectées les unes aux autres de manière appropriée le long desdites colonnes à l'aide de fils de trame ; elle comporte enfin des trous transparents de forme prédéterminée. La présente invention concerne également un procédé de fabrication des dentelles tricotées précitées.The present invention relates to a knitted lace which is characterized by the fact that it is composed of columns formed from knitted warp yarns constituting, for example, meshes; she is also composed of proximity loops connected one to others appropriately along those columns using weft threads; it finally includes transparent holes of predetermined shape. The current The invention also relates to a manufacturing method knitted lace above.

Ce type de dentelle tricotée , réalisé par exemple à partir de fibres chimiques présente comme avantage de s'érailler difficilement et de permettre la formation de motifs nets propres à la dentelle. Toutefois lorsque ladite dentelle est utilisée pour une lingerie féminine et que la surface qui comporte les motifs est mise directement en contact avec la peau, sa qualité de toucher, sa capacité d'absorption de la transpiration laissent à désirer. De ce fait, afin d'améliorer la qualité de toucher et la capacité d'absorption de la transpiration, il est habituel de coller à l'envers de la dentelle tricotée une doublure en maille réalisée par exemple en fils de coton qui présente d'excellentes qualités de toucher et une bonne capacité d'absorption de la transpiration.This type of knitted lace, made for example from chemical fibers has the advantage of difficult to navigate and to allow the formation of net patterns specific to lace. However, when said lace is used for women's lingerie and that the surface that features the grounds is put directly into contact with the skin, its quality of touch, its ability absorption of perspiration leave something to be desired. From this done, in order to improve the quality of touch and ability absorption of perspiration, it is usual to stick upside down knitted lace a mesh lining made for example of cotton yarn which presents excellent touch qualities and good ability absorption of perspiration.

Cependant cette structure a pour inconvénient majeur de nuire à l'aspect esthétique des motifs de dentelle car à travers les trous transparents formant lesdits motifs de dentelle on entrevoit la doublure en mailles. Cet inconvénient est encore accentué dans le cas où la doublure présente une forte densité de fils de coton en vue d'améliorer la capacité d'absorption de la transpiration.However, this structure has the major disadvantage to harm the aesthetic appearance of lace patterns because through the transparent holes forming said patterns lace one glimpses the mesh lining. This disadvantage is further accentuated in the case where the lining has a high density of cotton threads in view improve the absorption capacity of perspiration.

De plus cette structure qui nécessite une doublure dans le cadre du tricotage de la dentelle présente d'autres inconvénients. Cela complique le processus de production en raison des opérations supplémentaires qu'elle entraíne, opérations telles que l'assortiment de coloris entre la dentelle et la doublure ainsi que le collage de cette dernière à la dentelle. D'autre part cela augmente sensiblement le coût de production. De plus le collage d'une doublure à la dentelle a pour conséquence de conduire à un gaspillage partiel de l'un ou l'autre des matériaux si leur forme ou leur taille ne correspond pas exactement.In addition this structure which requires a lining in the context of knitting lace presents other disadvantages. This complicates the process of production due to additional operations it entails, operations such as the assortment of color between lace and lining and collage from this last to the lace. On the other hand significantly increases the cost of production. Moreover the bonding of a lining to the lace has the consequence to lead to a partial waste of one or the other materials if their shape or size does not match not exactly.

Afin d'améliorer le toucher d'un article textile au niveau de la peau de l'usager, il est connu d'effectuer un traitement mécanique sur ledit article dénommé lainage. Cependant dans le cas où il s'agit d'une dentelle tricotée, les intervalles entre les fils tricotés sont tellement importants que ceux-ci se déplacent relativement facilement les uns par rapport aux autres. Il n'était donc jusqu'à présent pas envisageable d'améliorer la qualité du toucher d'une dentelle tricotée en lainant la surface de celle-ci.In order to improve the feel of a textile article at of the skin of the user, it is known to perform a mechanical treatment on said article referred to as woolen. However in the case where it is a knitted lace, the intervals between the knitted yarns are so important that these move relatively easily one to another. It was so until present not possible to improve the quality of the touch of a knitted lace by lacing the surface of it.

C'est l'objet de la présente invention que de proposer une dentelle tricotée présentant une qualité de toucher et une capacité d'absorption de la transpiration améliorées sans avoir recours au collage d'une doublure et donc sans que soit détérioré l'aspect esthétique des motifs de dentelle. Les qualités de toucher et de capacité d'absorption de la transpiration de la dentelle selon l'invention sont apportées soit en concevant une structure particulière de tricotage des fils constituant les colonnes soit en traitant la dentelle tricotée.It is the object of the present invention to propose Knitted lace with touch quality and a sweat absorption capacity improved without resorting to bonding a liner and therefore without deteriorating the aesthetic appearance lace patterns. The qualities of touch and ability absorption of perspiration from the lace according to invention are made either by designing a particular knitting structure of the yarns constituting the columns either by processing the knitted lace.

Ce but est parfaitement atteint par la dentelle tricotée de l'invention, qui de manière connue, notamment par le document DE-A-1 760 398 est composée :

  • de colonnes formées par des fils de chaíne tricotés,
  • de boucles de proximité connectées les unes aux autres de manière appropriée le long desdites colonnes à l'aide de fils de trame,
  • des trous apparents et de forme prédéterminée ,
  • de fils élastiques entrelacés le long desdites colonnes et capables de s'allonger ou de se rétracter dans le sens de la longueur des fils.
This object is perfectly achieved by the knitted lace of the invention, which in known manner, in particular by the document DE-A-1 760 398 is composed:
  • of columns formed by knitted warp yarns,
  • proximity loops appropriately connected to each other along said columns with weft wires,
  • apparent holes of predetermined shape,
  • elastic threads interwoven along said columns and capable of elongating or retracting in the direction of the length of the threads.

De manière caractéristique selon l'invention, la dentelle comporte en outre des fils de poils entrelacés et disposés le long desdites colonnes en sorte de former des poils qui sont projetés vers l'extérieur et le long desdites colonnes.Characteristically according to the invention, the lace further comprises interlaced hair strands and disposed along said columns so as to form bristles which are projected outwards and along said columns.

Ainsi, conformément à l'invention, des fils de poils, entrelacés le long des colonnes, sont projetés vers l'extérieur desdites colonnes, par exemple sont projetés vers le côté qui correspond à l'envers de la surface sur laquelle sont entrelacés les fils destinés à la réalisation des motifs de la dentelle.Thus, according to the invention, threads of hair, intertwined along the columns, are projected outward said columns, for example are projected towards the side that corresponds to the underside of the surface on which are interwoven the son intended for the realization patterns of lace.

Du fait qu'ils sont entrelacés le long des colonnes, les fils de poils ne sont pas visibles au travers des trous transparents formant les motifs de la dentelle comme c'est le cas lorsqu'il s'agit d'une doublure collée. De plus il n'y a pas de détérioration de l'aspect esthétique des motifs.Because they are intertwined along the columns, the pile threads are not visible through the holes transparencies forming the patterns of lace as this is the case when it comes to a glued liner. Moreover there is no deterioration of the aesthetic aspect of reasons.

Etant donné que la totalité des fils formant les poils n'est pas entrelacée dans la dentelle mais qu'une partie de ces fils est projetée vers l'extérieur de celle-ci , un volume relativement important de fils peut être incorporé à la dentelle. En conséquence, grâce à cette structure, la dentelle tricotée de l'invention présente un toucher agréable. Par ailleurs l'utilisation en tant que fils de poils de fils de coton ayant une excellente capacité d'absorption de la transpiration permet d'améliorer la capacité d'absorption de la transpiration de la dentelle dans sa totalité.Since all the threads forming the bristles is not intertwined in lace but a part of these threads is projected outward from it, a relatively large volume of wires can be incorporated with lace. As a result, thanks to this structure, the knitted lace of the invention has a touch pleasant. By the way use as hair strands cotton yarn with excellent absorbency perspiration improves the capacity absorption of perspiration from the lace in its screen.

De préférence les saillies formées vers l'extérieur par les fils de poils sont lainées. Ce lainage a pour effet d'améliorer d'avantage la qualité de toucher et la capacité d'absorption de la transpiration de la dentelle.Preferably the protrusions formed outwards by the threads of hair are lain. This woolen effect has the effect to further improve the quality of touch and the ability absorption of perspiration from the lace.

C'est un autre objet de l'invention que de proposer un procédé spécialement conçu pour la fabrication de la dentelle tricotée précitée. Ce procédé consiste :

  • a) à entrelacer, le long des colonnes, en extension des fils élastiques capables de s'étirer ou de se rétrécir dans le sens de leur longueur,
  • b) à entrelacer le long des colonnes des fils de poils sur une première partie de ceux-ci, la seconde partie non-entrelacée aux colonnes étant destinée à se transformer en poils le long des colonnes et vers l'extérieur de celles-ci,
  • c) à transformer en poils formés vers l'extérieur des colonnes , lors du rétrécissement des fils élastiques après le tricotage, la seconde partie des fils de poils non-entrelacés aux colonnes.
  • It is another object of the invention to provide a method specially designed for the manufacture of the aforementioned knitted lace. This process consists of:
  • a) intertwining, along the columns, extending elastic threads capable of stretching or shrinking in the direction of their length,
  • b) interweaving along the columns of the pile strands on a first portion thereof, the second non-interlaced portion to the columns being adapted to turn into bristles along the columns and outwardly thereof,
  • c) to transform into bristles formed outward of the columns, during the narrowing of the elastic threads after knitting, the second part of the pile son non-intertwined with the columns.
  • Les fils de poils et les fils élastiques sont entrelacés le long des colonnes. Plus précisément les fils élastiques sont entrelacés en extension alors que les fils de poils le sont tout en réservant la seconde partie qui est destinée à être transformée en poils. Cette seconde partie n'est pas entrelacée aux colonnes. De ce fait lors du rétrécissement des fils élastiques après le tricotage, cette seconde partie sort vers l'extérieur de la dentelle tricotée pour former les poils qui sont recherchés selon l'invention.The pile threads and the elastic threads are interlaced along the columns. More precisely the elastic threads are intertwined in extension while the sons of bristles are while reserving the second part that is intended to be transformed into hair. This second part is not intertwined with the columns. As a result, narrowing of the elastic yarns after knitting, this second part comes out of the knitted lace to form the hairs that are sought according to the invention.

    De préférence, le lainage des poils est réalisé par un moyen de lainage qui tourne dans le sens de formation des colonnes. Ceci a pour effet de permettre un lainage efficace desdits poils seuls tout en limitant au maximum les dommages pour les fils destinés à la réalisation de la partie unie de la dentelle. La présente invention sera mieux comprise à la lecture de la description qui va être faite d'un exemple de réalisation d'une dentelle tricotée présentant des poils sur l'une de ses faces, illustré par le dessin annexé dans lequel :

    • La figure 1 est une représentation schématique de la structure d'une dentelle,
    • La figure 2 est un agrandissement d'une partie de la dentelle montrée à la figure 1,
    • La figure 3 est une vue en coupe de côté de la dentelle et,
    • La figure 4 illustre l'opération de lainage de la dentelle.
    Preferably, the woolening of the bristles is carried out by a woolening means which rotates in the direction of formation of the columns. This has the effect of allowing effective woolening said single hairs while limiting the maximum damage to the son for the realization of the united part of the lace. The present invention will be better understood on reading the description which will be given of an embodiment of a knitted lace having bristles on one of its faces, illustrated by the appended drawing in which:
    • FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of the structure of a lace,
    • FIG. 2 is an enlargement of part of the lace shown in FIG. 1,
    • Figure 3 is a side sectional view of the lace and,
    • Figure 4 illustrates the operation of woolen lace.

    La dentelle tricotée 100 qui est illustrée aux figures se compose de trois parties : une partie unie 101, une partie à motifs 102 et une partie poils 103.The knitted lace 100 which is illustrated in the figures consists of three parts: a united part 101, a patterned portion 102 and a bristle portion 103.

    La partie unie 101 résulte de l'entrelacement de fils de chaíne 5 et de fils de trame 6.The united part 101 results from the interlacing of wires chain 5 and weft son 6.

    La partie à motifs 102 est constituée par les fils qui sont destinés à la réalisation des motifs 11 et qui sont entrelacés sur la surface de la partie unie 101.The patterned part 102 consists of the threads are intended for the realization of patterns 11 and which are intertwined on the surface of the united part 101.

    La partie poils 103 est constituée par les fils de poils 8 qui sont entrelacés sur l'envers de la partie unie 101.The bristle portion 103 is constituted by the bristles 8 which are intertwined on the back of the united part 101.

    L'épaisseur respective de ces trois parties est notamment comprise entre 0,5 à 1mm pour la partie unie 101, entre 1 et 2mm pour la partie à motifs 102 et entre 0,5 et 1 mm pour la partie poils 103.The respective thickness of these three parts is notably between 0.5 to 1mm for the united part 101, between 1 and 2mm for the patterned part 102 and between 0.5 and 1 mm for the bristles 103.

    Comme illustré à la figure 1, la partie unie 101 est tout d'abord formée en entrelaçant en mailles une succession de fils de chaíne 5, par exemple en polyamide, pour créer des colonnes 1, et en connectant des boucles 2 de proximité les unes aux autres d'une manière appropriée à l'aide de fils de trame 6 , par exemple en polyamide, pour créer des trous apparents 3,4 de forme prédéterminée. Grâce aux trous apparents 3 et 4 créés entre les colonnes 1 et les fils de trame 6, la dentelle 7 présente un joli aspect de dentelle. Ensuite la partie à motifs 102 et la partie poils 103 sont formées de telle sorte qu'elles sont entrelacées à la partie unie 101. En fait, lors du tricotage, ces opérations se déroulent simultanément.As shown in Figure 1, the United part 101 is first formed by interlacing a succession chain son 5, for example polyamide, to create columns 1, and by connecting loops 2 of proximity to each other in an appropriate manner with weft threads 6, for example polyamide, to create apparent holes 3,4 of form predetermined. With apparent holes 3 and 4 created between the columns 1 and the weft threads 6, the lace 7 has a pretty lace look. Then the part to patterns 102 and the bristles 103 are formed of such so that they are intertwined with the united part 101. In during knitting, these operations take place simultaneously.

    La figure 2 illustre clairement que la partie à motifs 102 est créée en entrelaçant les fils 11 destinés à la réalisation des motifs. Dans le procédé utilisé, la dentelle tricotée a une structure selon laquelle les fils 11, destinés à la réalisation des motifs , ressortent sur la surface de la dentelle 7; il est alors possible de réaliser des motifs de fleurs sur la surface de la dentelle 7 suivant un dessin prédéterminé.Figure 2 clearly illustrates that the patterned part 102 is created by interlacing the wires 11 intended for the realization motifs. In the process used, the lace knitted fabric has a structure according to which the threads 11, intended for to the realization of the reasons, stand out on the surface lace 7; it is then possible to make patterns of flowers on the surface of the lace 7 following a predetermined drawing.

    En ce qui concerne la formation de la partie poils 103, elle consiste à former des mailles selon une colonne 1 en entrelaçant un fil de chaíne 5 et à entrelacer ensuite dans chacune desdites mailles et le long des colonnes 1 une succession de fils de poils 8 et une succession de fils élastiques 9. Il peut s'agir notamment de fils élastiques connus sous la dénomination Spun-tex.Regarding the formation of the bristles 103, it consists of forming meshes according to a column 1 by interlacing a warp thread 5 and interlacing then in each of the said meshes and along the columns 1 a succession of hair threads 8 and a succession elastic threads 9. This may include elastic yarns known as Spun-tex.

    C'est le fil élastique Spun-tex 9 qui donne de l'élasticité à la dentelle 7. Le fil de poils 8 est entrelacé en sorte d'apparaítre à des intervalles réguliers sur l'envers de la dentelle 7. D'autre part le fil élastique Spun-tex 9 est entrelacé, comme montré aux figures 1 et 2, entre chacune des boucles 2 formées dans la colonne 1. Ceci a pour conséquence d'assurer une bonne élasticité mais aussi de transformer le fil de poils 8 en poils 10, sur l'envers de la dentelle 7 grâce au rétrécissement du fil élastique 9.It is the elastic thread Spun-tex 9 which gives elasticity 7. The pile wire 8 is interwoven in kind of appearing at regular intervals upside down 7. On the other hand the elastic thread Spun-tex 9 is interlaced, as shown in Figures 1 and 2, between each of the loops 2 formed in column 1. This has the effect of ensuring good elasticity but also to transform the pile thread 8 into bristles 10, on the back of lace 7 thanks to the narrowing of elastic thread 9.

    Plus précisément, le fil de poils 8 est entrelacé toutes les trois boucles 2 sur une même colonne 1 en sorte de faire apparaítre seulement sur l'envers de la dentelle 7 une partie 8a du fil 8 qui est destinée à être transformée en poils. C'est cette partie 8a qui après rétraction du fil élastique 9 crée les poils 10. Comme fils de poils 8, on utilise généralement un fil de coton pour obtenir une bonne qualité de toucher et une bonne capacité d'absorption de la transpiration.Specifically, the pile yarn 8 is interlaced every three loops 2 in the same column 1 so to appear only on the back of the lace 7 part 8 a yarn 8 which is to be transformed into hair. It is this part which has 8 after retraction of the elastic thread 9 creates the hairs 10. As son of bristles 8 is generally used a cotton thread to get a good quality feel and good capacity to absorb perspiration.

    La partie 8a du fil 8 destinée à être transformée en poils et qui est projetée à l'envers de la dentelle 7 subit ensuite un traitement de lainage.Part 8 has 8 wire to be transformed into hair and is projected upside down lace 7 then undergoes a wool treatment.

    Le mode de réalisation de la dentelle tricotée selon l'invention est le suivant.The embodiment of the knitted lace according to the invention is as follows.

    Lors du tricotage de la dentelle 100, on entrelace suivant la structure qui vient d'être décrite des fils de chaíne 5, des fils de trame 6, des fils élastiques Spun-tex 9 , des fils destinés à la réalisation des motifs 11 et des fils de poils 8. Parmi ces fils, les fils élastiques Spun-tex sont entrelacés en extension en maintenant une tension relativement élevée compte-tenu de leur rétraction après tricotage. En effet, dès l'achèvement du tricotage, les fils élastiques Spun-tex 9 se rétractent rapidement et la partie 8a du fil 8 destinée à être transformée en poils est projetée sur l'envers de la dentelle, ce qui produit des poils 10 d'excellente qualité. Après ce passage sur métier à tisser Rachel, la dentelle 100 subit un lainage. Cette opération de lainage est illustrée très schématiquement sur la figure 4. Le laineur est muni comme moyens rotatifs de lainage d'une succession de rouleaux 12 disposés parallèlement les uns aux autres tels que des rouleaux présentant une garniture à aiguilles ou encore des rouleaux émeri etc. Ces rouleaux sont mis en contact avec la partie poils 103 située sur l'envers de la dentelle. Des rouleaux convoyeurs 13 ont pour double fonction, d'une part de créer une tension appropriée sur la dentelle 7 et d'autre part de déplacer cette dernière dans le sens contraire à celui de la rotation des rouleaux 12 de lainage.During the knitting of the lace 100, according to the structure which has just been described, warp yarns 5, weft threads 6, Spun-tex elastic threads 9, threads intended for the production of the patterns 11 and 8. Of these yarns, the Spun-tex elastic yarns are interwoven in extension while maintaining a relatively high tension in view of their retraction after knitting. Indeed, as soon as the knitting is completed, the spun-tex elastic threads 9 retract quickly and the part 8 a of the thread 8 intended to be transformed into bristles is projected on the back of the lace, which produces bristles 10. of excellent quality. After this passage on Rachel loom, 100 lace undergoes a woolen. This woolen operation is illustrated very schematically in Figure 4. The woolen is provided as rotating means of laundering a succession of rollers 12 arranged parallel to each other such as rolls having a needle seal or emery rollers etc. . These rollers are brought into contact with the bristle portion 103 located on the back of the lace. Conveyor rollers 13 have the dual function of firstly creating a suitable tension on the lace 7 and secondly displacing the latter in the opposite direction to that of the rotation of the wool rollers 12.

    Les poils 10 sont lainés par les rouleaux 12 qui tournent dans le sens de formation des colonnes 11 constituant la partie unie 101. Cette technique de lainage présente plusieurs avantages. Elle évite tout contact entre d'une part les aiguilles ou saillies 12a fixées respectivement sur les rouleaux à garniture ou les rouleaux émeri 12, réalisant le lainage et d'autre part les fils de chaíne 5 et les fils de trame 6 constituant la partie unie 101. Ainsi il n'y a pas de risque d'endommagement de la partie unie 101 de la dentelle. De plus cette technique permet d'assurer un excellent lainage des poils 10.The bristles 10 are lain by the rollers 12 which rotate in the direction of formation of the columns 11 constituting the united part 101. This woolen technique has several advantages. It avoids any contact between on one hand the needles or protrusions 12a fixed respectively to the roller seal or emery rollers 12, which the wool and secondly the son Chain 5 and the frame 6 constituting the son part United 101. Thus there is no risk of damage to the plain part 101 of the lace. In addition, this technique makes it possible to ensure excellent washing of the bristles 10.

    La demanderesse a pu constater qu'en réalisant la dentelle tricotée conformément à l'invention, c'est-à-dire en entrelaçant les fils de poils 8 le long des colonnes 1 formées par des fils de chaíne 5 tout en projetant une partie 8a des fils de poils 8 vers l'extérieur de la dentelle 7, il n'y avait pas de détérioration de l'aspect esthétique propre à la dentelle. La demanderesse a ainsi obtenu une dentelle qui excelle à la fois en aspect esthétique, en qualité de toucher et en capacité d'absorption de la transpiration.The plaintiff has found that by carrying out the knitted lace according to the invention, that is to say by interlacing the pile threads 8 along the columns 1 formed by warp yarns 5 while projecting a part 8a of the pile threads 8 towards the outside of the lace 7, there was no deterioration of the aesthetic appearance clean to the lace. The plaintiff thus obtained a lace which excels at the same time in aesthetic aspect, in terms of touch and absorption capacity of the sweat.

    La présente invention n'est pas limitée au mode de réalisation qui vient d'être décrit. Elle peut recouvrir notamment les variantes suivantes.The present invention is not limited to the mode of realization which has just been described. It can cover in particular the following variants.

    La dentelle tricotée selon l'invention peut comporter des trous apparents de taille à peu près identique et disposés à des intervalles réguliers, sur à peu près toute la surface. Il peut s'agir d'une dentelle tricotée, sans fils 11 destinés à la réalisation des motifs 101. Les trous apparents peuvent être créés en entrelaçant les fils de chaíne formant les colonnes avoisinantes.The knitted lace according to the invention may comprise apparent holes of about the same size and arranged at regular intervals, on just about any the surface. It can be a knitted lace without wires 11 for making patterns 101. Holes Apparent can be created by interlacing the wires of chain forming the neighboring columns.

    Même s'il est habituel d'utiliser soit un laineur Franz Muller muni de rouleaux à garniture à aiguilles ou de rouleaux émeri soit un laineur Bever-Emery muni de rouleaux émeri, il est possible d'effectuer un bon lainage en adoptant n'importe quel type de laineur du fait que la partie 8a du fil 8 et destinée à être transformée en poils est projetée vers l'extérieur de la dentelle.Although it is usual to use either a Franz Wielder Muller equipped with needle roller or emery rolls is a drinker Bever-Emery equipped with Emery rollers, it is possible to perform a good woolen by adopting any type of weaver because the part 8a of the thread 8 and intended to be transformed into hair is projected to the outside of the lace.

    Dans l'exemple décrit ci-dessus les fils de chaíne et de trame étaient des fils de polyamide. Il est cependant possible de les remplacer par des fils de polyester, de soie, de coton etc.In the example described above the warp threads and weft were polyamide yarns. It is however possible to replace them with polyester threads, silk, cotton etc.

    Il est également possible d'employer comme fils de poils des fils de polyamide, de polyester, de rayonne etc et comme fils destinés à la réalisation des motifs des fils de polyamide, de polyester, de coton, de soie, de rayonne, de laine etc.It is also possible to use as sons of bristles of polyamide, polyester, rayon yarn etc. and as yarns for making patterns of threads polyamide, polyester, cotton, silk, rayon, wool etc.

    Claims (4)

    1. Knitted lace composed:
      of columns (1) formed by knitted warp threads (5),
      of proximity loops (2) suitably connected to one another along the said columns (1) by means of weft threads (6),
      of visible holes (3) and (4) of predetermined shape,
      of elastic threads (9) interlaced along the said columns (1) and capable of lengthening or of retracting in the longitudinal direction of the threads, characterized in that it comprises, furthermore, pile (10) threads (8) interlaced and arranged along the said columns (1) so that pile (10) is formed that is projected towards the outside and along the said columns (1), said pile making it possible to improve the quality of feel and the capacity for absorbing transpiration of the lace.
    2. Knitted lace according to Claim 1, characterized in that the projections formed towards the outside by the pile threads (8) are teased.
    3. Method for the production of a knitted lace composed of columns (1) formed by knitted warp threads (5), of proximity loops (2) suitably connected to one another along the columns (1) by means of weft threads (6), and of visible holes (3) and (4) of predetermined shape and of elastic threads (9) interlaced along the said columns (1) and capable of lengthening or of retracting in the longitudinal direction of the threads, characterized in that it involves, in order to improve the quality of feel and the capacity for absorbing transpiration of the lace:
      a)interlacing the extended elastic threads (9) along the said columns (1),
      b)interlacing pile threads (8), whilst producing a part (8a) intended to be converted into pile, along the said columns (1) and towards the outside of the said columns (1), but without the said part (8a) being interlaced with the said columns (1),
      c)converting, by utilizing the retraction of the elastic threads (9) after knitting, the said part (8a) into pile (10) formed on the lateral side of the said columns (1).
    4. Method according to Claim 3, characterized in that it involves a step of teasing the pile (10) by a teasing means (12) which rotates in the direction of formation of the columns (1).
    EP94490020A 1993-11-16 1994-04-27 Lace and method of its manufacture Expired - Lifetime EP0653507B2 (en)

    Applications Claiming Priority (3)

    Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
    JP5286329A JP2735783B2 (en) 1993-06-07 1993-11-16 Knitted lace and method of manufacturing knitted lace
    JP28632993 1993-11-16
    JP286329/93 1993-11-16

    Publications (3)

    Publication Number Publication Date
    EP0653507A1 EP0653507A1 (en) 1995-05-17
    EP0653507B1 EP0653507B1 (en) 1996-09-11
    EP0653507B2 true EP0653507B2 (en) 2004-05-06

    Family

    ID=17702984

    Family Applications (1)

    Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
    EP94490020A Expired - Lifetime EP0653507B2 (en) 1993-11-16 1994-04-27 Lace and method of its manufacture

    Country Status (5)

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    EP (1) EP0653507B2 (en)
    AT (1) ATE142719T1 (en)
    DE (1) DE69400521T3 (en)
    ES (1) ES2094631T5 (en)
    HK (1) HK1006733A1 (en)

    Families Citing this family (4)

    * Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
    Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
    JP3020863B2 (en) * 1996-02-23 2000-03-15 栄レース株式会社 Knitting method of lace knitted fabric and lace knitted fabric
    JP2001164447A (en) * 1999-12-02 2001-06-19 Sakae Lace Kk Lace knitting and method of its knitting
    JP3393099B2 (en) * 1999-12-22 2003-04-07 栄レース株式会社 Russell lace ground
    WO2017175396A1 (en) * 2016-04-08 2017-10-12 株式会社Yoshita Tex Knitted lace

    Family Cites Families (5)

    * Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
    Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
    DE1760398A1 (en) * 1968-05-14 1971-11-25 Blum & Koniarski Gmbh & Co Elastic lace tapes and plains with falling metal rustle pattern and device for their production
    US4280259A (en) * 1980-04-07 1981-07-28 Bassist Rudolf G Method of knitting a velour lace fabric
    GB2106153B (en) * 1981-09-03 1985-04-11 Ici Plc Elastomeric knitted pile fabrics
    JPH01272853A (en) * 1988-04-22 1989-10-31 Teijin Ltd Raised warp knitted fabric
    JP2563369Y2 (en) * 1992-09-21 1998-02-18 ワイケイケイ株式会社 Warp knit base fabric for hook-and-loop fastener

    Non-Patent Citations (2)

    * Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
    Title
    Style 12156 product de Galler Iberica S.A.
    Style 38095 product de Volart Encajes y Tejidos S.A.

    Also Published As

    Publication number Publication date
    HK1006733A1 (en) 1999-03-12
    ES2094631T5 (en) 2004-12-16
    EP0653507B1 (en) 1996-09-11
    ES2094631T3 (en) 1997-01-16
    EP0653507A1 (en) 1995-05-17
    DE69400521T2 (en) 1997-03-27
    DE69400521T3 (en) 2004-12-30
    DE69400521D1 (en) 1996-10-17
    ATE142719T1 (en) 1996-09-15

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