EP0411656A1 - Fully synthetic fusion-bondable interlining for shirts - Google Patents
Fully synthetic fusion-bondable interlining for shirts Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0411656A1 EP0411656A1 EP19900114962 EP90114962A EP0411656A1 EP 0411656 A1 EP0411656 A1 EP 0411656A1 EP 19900114962 EP19900114962 EP 19900114962 EP 90114962 A EP90114962 A EP 90114962A EP 0411656 A1 EP0411656 A1 EP 0411656A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- insert
- shirt
- area according
- fabric
- warp
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
- A41B3/00—Collars
- A41B3/10—Collars chemically stiffened
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/02—Linings
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/02—Linings
- A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/30—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
- D03D15/33—Ultrafine fibres, e.g. microfibres or nanofibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/49—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/513—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads heat-resistant or fireproof
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins
- D10B2321/021—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins polyethylene
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/06—Details of garments
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
- Y10T428/24—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
- Y10T428/24802—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.]
- Y10T428/2481—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.] including layer of mechanically interengaged strands, strand-portions or strand-like strips
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
- Y10T428/24—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
- Y10T428/24802—Discontinuous or differential coating, impregnation or bond [e.g., artwork, printing, retouched photograph, etc.]
- Y10T428/24826—Spot bonds connect components
Definitions
- the invention relates generically to a woven fabric which is used as an insert in the shirt area, synthetic fibers being used as area-forming warp threads and at least partially crimped yarns made from synthetic fibers as weft threads, the finished fabric being bonded to other textile materials with a heat-sealable adhesive Base of copolyesters and / or low-pressure polyethylene is coated in a dot pattern with a dot density of 600 - 1400 dots / inch2.
- the inserts can consist of nonwovens, knitted fabrics, woven fabrics or combination products thereof, such as knitted nonwovens.
- the inlays have the task of designing and stabilizing the garment in such a way that the bounce, elasticity, shape stability, etc. of the outer fabric correspond to the wishes and fashion trends.
- the exemplary embodiment cited in the cited application describes an insert which consists of a cotton chain and a shrunk double weft of high-density yarn made of polyacrylonitrile fiber.
- the combination of natural or regenerated fibers in the warp with synthetic fibers in the weft in the form of a woven fabric, which is then coated in a dot pattern with heat-sealable adhesive made of copolyamides, must therefore be counted among the sufficiently known prior art.
- the invention is therefore based on the object of designing a generic insert such that it no longer has all the disadvantages described.
- the invention teaches to use a woven fabric which contains a synthetic yarn in warp and weft thread, the weft yarn at least partially consisting of a crimped yarn and the entire fabric subsequently punctiform with a heat-sealable adhesive based on copolyesters and / or Low pressure polyethylene with a point density of 600 - 1400 points / inch2 is coated.
- a shirt insert designed according to the invention is of such surprising quality that it must be viewed as a leap in innovation.
- Polyester is known as a shrink-resistant and washable or cleaning-resistant material in the textile sector.
- the registration also takes into account the use of a polyester yarn in the warp direction. Polyester yarns made of multifilaments and staple fibers are suitable for this.
- a further embodiment of the invention is a fabric which has filaments of different polymer composition in the warp and / or weft yarn. This means that, for example, the warp yarn is made of a different polymer than the weft yarn.
- a multifilament warp yarn or weft yarn consists of a mixture of different polymeric individual filaments.
- the warp yarn can also consist of a polymer and the weft yarn can consist of a polymer mixture.
- polymer yarns with a low proportion of natural fibers can also be used.
- the invention also provides for different colors to be used in the weft and warp yarn. This does not exclude that the warp yarn itself or the weft yarn also consists of a color combination, caused by differently colored individual filaments.
- the invention also takes into account an insert in the shirt area which is marked in the warp and / or weft yarn. Both an optical brightener and an X-ray contrast medium as well as metal fibers etc. can be used as the marking.
- the function of the marking is to identify the quality
- the marking can relate to single filaments in warp and weft yarn as well as individual fibers and fiber areas.
- the invention also provides for the insert to be manufactured as a flame-retardant article. There is the possibility that either the fibers themselves or the finished fabric will be given a flame-resistant finish or that a flame-resistant finish will be sought through the pre-selection of suitable materials.
- microfibers There is a tendency to observe an increase in the finer monofilaments in the market, which are below 1 dtex in fiber fineness. These materials are assigned to the so-called microfibers. Fabrics made from microfibers show a very supple behavior. Fabrics made from microfibers that meet the requirements of the invention can also be used advantageously as an insert in the shirt area.
- Punctiform coatings have proven to be particularly advantageous in the area of the inserts.
- Various methods have been established for the application of punctiform coatings, so that all the known methods can also be used for coating woven shirt inserts designed according to the invention. This includes the process of powder point coating, paste point coating or paste point coating with subsequent application of scatter powder before the thermal treatment. The last-mentioned method, also called double-spot method, is described in more detail in German patent application P 2214236.
- a very serious advantage of the new fully synthetic shirt insert is that the woven raw material does not require any special treatment steps, but can be coated directly with a heat-sealable adhesive.
- the shrinkage stabilization treatments with reactive synthetic resins and sanforizing processes are completely eliminated.
- a calendering process can be carried out. This calendering process flattens the existing points and also widens the area of the shirt insert covered with adhesive.
- a dot pattern coating of 600 - 1400 dots / inch2 is carried out. The subsequent calendering has also shown to improve the product. The penetration through the shirt fabric is avoided.
- an application weight for the synthetic fabric insert with adhesive applied on one side has been found to be between 13 and 30 g / m2 and preferably already between 15 and 20 g / m2 to ensure the required washing safety of the cleaning association.
- the invention also provides for coating an insert not only on one side but on both sides. This is not yet a standard method, but can expand the range of applications for special requirements.
- the shirt insert according to the invention represents progress which, after years of trying around with other inserts, was no longer to be expected.
- the harmony between the shirt outer fabric and the insert created by the design of the insert according to the invention leads to such a great improvement in the product that a large economic field of use can be expected.
- the saving of process steps in the manufacture of the insert according to the invention inevitably results in considerable advantages compared to cotton inserts previously used. These advantages are manifested not only in a reduction in the number of processing steps, but also in the elimination of chemically contaminated waste water and steaming. This environmental aspect should represent a further driving force for the increased use of the shirt insert according to the invention.
- the insert according to the invention was designed for use in shirts.
- Such an insert can, however, also be used in similar applications.
- Fig. 1 a schematic embodiment of the shirt insert according to the invention is shown.
- the fabric 1 consists of multifilament polyester warp threads 2 and weft threads made of crimped yarn 3.
- the fabric is coated on the side facing away from the viewer with a heat-sealable adhesive in a dot matrix and then calendered.
- Shirt insert coated with heat sealable adhesive of the following type: Type of weave: plain weave Warp yarn: polyester 78/24 dtex, optically lightened Weft yarn: Polyester 76/24 dtex textured, optically brightened Ready shot density: 200-205 per 10cm Warp thread density: 361 over a width of 10 cm Coating: powder point made of low pressure polyethylene powder After-treatment of the coating: calendering Application weight: 16 - 20 g / m2 Shrink: insert fixed against itself, after a 90 ° C wash, shrink ⁇ 1.5% in warp and weft Total weight: approx. 80 g / m2.
- the inserts were fixed against each other at a joint temperature of approx. 145 ° C for approx. 15 s and a pressure of 2000 p / cm2.
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Nanotechnology (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
- Wrappers (AREA)
- Manufacturing Of Multi-Layer Textile Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Die Erfindung bezieht sich gattungsgemäß auf ein gewebtes textiles Flächengebilde, welches als Einlage im Hemdenbereich eingesetzt wird, wobei als flächenbildende Kettfäden Synthetikfasern eingesetzt werden und als Schußfäden mindestens teilweise Kräuselgarne aus Synthetikfasern, wobei das fertige Gewebe zwecks Verbund mit anderen textilen Materialien mit einer heißsiegelfähigen Klebemasse auf Basis von copolyestern und/oder Niederdruckpolyethylen im Punktraster mit einer Punktdichte von 600 - 1400 punkten/inch² beschichtet wird.The invention relates generically to a woven fabric which is used as an insert in the shirt area, synthetic fibers being used as area-forming warp threads and at least partially crimped yarns made from synthetic fibers as weft threads, the finished fabric being bonded to other textile materials with a heat-sealable adhesive Base of copolyesters and / or low-pressure polyethylene is coated in a dot pattern with a dot density of 600 - 1400 dots / inch².
Im Bereich der Textilindustrie werden zur Gestaltung von Bekleidungsstücken z.B. Oberstoffe mit Hilfe von sogenannten Einlagen verbunden. Die Einlagen können aus Vliesen, Gewirken, Geweben oder Kombinationsprodukten daraus, wie Wirkvliesen, bestehen. Sie werden heute überwiegend mit punktförmig aufgetragenen, heißsiegelfähigen Klebemassen beschichtet, die dann unter Druck- und Temperatureinwirkung einen vorwiegend formschlüssigen Verbund zum Oberstoff ausbilden. Die Einlagen haben die Aufgabe, das Kleidungsstück formgerecht zu gestalten und zu stabilisieren, derart, daß die Sprungkraft, Sprungelastizität, Formstabilität, etc. des Oberstoffes den Wunschvorstellungen und Modetrends entsprechen.In the field of the textile industry, e.g. for the design of clothing items Outer fabrics connected with the help of so-called deposits The inserts can consist of nonwovens, knitted fabrics, woven fabrics or combination products thereof, such as knitted nonwovens. Today, they are mainly coated with point-applied, heat-sealable adhesives, which then form a predominantly form-fitting bond to the outer fabric under the influence of pressure and temperature. The inlays have the task of designing and stabilizing the garment in such a way that the bounce, elasticity, shape stability, etc. of the outer fabric correspond to the wishes and fashion trends.
Bei der Berücksichtigung des Stands der Technik wurde u.a. von der österreichischen Patentanmeldung Nr. 328 391 vom 25.03.1976 ausgegangen. Danach ist es allgemein bekannt bei einer gewebten Einlage Fasermaterial zu verwenden, welches einen Anteil an Synthetikkräuselgarn enthält .In der genannten Anmeldung sind texturierte Kräuselgarne aus verschiedenen Polymeren erwähnt. Die Anmeldung beschränkt sich jedoch auf Einlagematerialien, die mit Copolyamiden im Punktraster beschichtet sind und lediglich im Schuß Synthetikgarne enthalten. Das Kettmaterial besteht aus Natur- oder Regeneratfasern (Zellwolle) und die Anwendung der erzeugten Einlagen ist auf Materialien beschränkt, die auf Oberstoffe auffixiert werden. So beschreibt das in der zitierten Anmeldung angeführte Ausführungsbeispiel eine Einlage, die aus einer Baumwollkette und einem geschrumpften Zweifachschuß von Hochbauschgarn aus Polyacrylnitrilfaser besteht. Die Kombination von Natur- oder Regeneratfasern in der Kette mit Synthetikfasern im Schuß in Form eines gewebten Flächengebildes, welches anschließend in einem Punktraster mit heißsiegelfähiger Klebemasse aus Copolyamiden beschichtet wird, muß also zum hinreichend bekannten Stand der Technik gezählt werden.Taking into account the state of the art, the Austrian patent application No. 328 391 dated March 25, 1976, among others, was assumed. According to this, it is generally known to use fiber material which contains a proportion of synthetic crimp yarn in a woven insert. In the application mentioned, textured crimp yarns made from different polymers are mentioned. However, the application is restricted to interlining materials which are coated with copolyamides in a dot pattern and only contain synthetic yarns in the weft. The warp material consists of natural or regenerated fibers (cellulose) and the use of the inserts produced is limited to materials that are attached to outer fabrics. The exemplary embodiment cited in the cited application describes an insert which consists of a cotton chain and a shrunk double weft of high-density yarn made of polyacrylonitrile fiber. The combination of natural or regenerated fibers in the warp with synthetic fibers in the weft in the form of a woven fabric, which is then coated in a dot pattern with heat-sealable adhesive made of copolyamides, must therefore be counted among the sufficiently known prior art.
So besteht auch schon seit Jahrzehnten die Möglichkeit, gerade bei sehr feinen Stoffen, wie sie bei Oberhemden Verwendung finden, eine Stabilisierung des Stoffes im Kragen-, Manschetten-, Knopfleisten- oder Taschenbereich mittels Einlagen zu erreichen. Stand der Entwicklung bei den Hemdeneinlagen sind Baumwollgewebe, die in einer ausgesprochenen Vielfalt auf dem Markt existieren, um sich den ständigen Variationen der Hemdstoffhersteller problemorientiert anpassen zu können. Die freien Valenzen in den Modifikationsmöglichkeiten liegen in der Konstruktion des Gewebes, d.h. Variation der Kett- und/oder Schußdichte, Fadenstärke, Filamentzahl, Fadendrehung etc., oder der Art der Ausrüstung des Gewebes bis hin zu den verschiedenen Beschichtungstechniken für die punktförmig aufzubringenden Klebemassen. Alle Anstrengungen dienen letztlich auch dazu, eine Harmonie zwischen Hemdstoff und Einlage zu schaffen, die dazu führt, daß die Einlage zwar jederzeit ihre Funktion erfüllt, aber optisch nicht zur Beeinträchtigung führt. Dieses Kriterium wird leider häufig nicht erfüllt. Die reine Fixierung zwischen der Hemdeinlage und dem Hemdenstoff gelingt in aller Regel noch problemlos. Wenn das Hemd nach einer Trageperiode jedoch gewaschen werden soll, treten nach eine Kochwäsche oft unansehliche Erscheinungsformen auf. Dies können sein:
- Ablösungen zwischen Hemdstoff und Einlage
- Blasenbildungen
- Orangenhaut
- Knitterbildung
- hohe Schrumpfungen usw.So it has been possible for decades to stabilize the fabric in the collar, cuff, button placket or pocket area, especially with very fine fabrics, such as those used for shirts. State of the art in the development of shirt inlays are cotton fabrics, which exist on the market in a wide variety in order to be able to adapt to the constant variations of shirt fabric manufacturers in a problem-oriented manner. The free valences in the modification possibilities lie in the construction of the fabric, ie variation in warp and / or weft density, thread thickness, number of filaments, twist, etc., or the type of finishing of the fabric up to the different coating techniques for the adhesive to be applied in a punctiform manner. Ultimately, all efforts also serve to create a harmony between the shirt fabric and the insert, which means that the insert fulfills its function at all times, but does not impair the appearance. Unfortunately, this criterion is often not met. The pure fixation between the shirt insert and the shirt fabric usually still works without any problems. However, if the shirt is to be washed after a period of wear, after washing it in a boil there are often unsightly manifestations. These can be:
- Detachments between shirt fabric and insert
- blistering
- orange peel
- creasing
- high shrinkage etc.
Oft führen diese Reklamationen zur Rufschädigung im Markt, verbunden mit Umsatzeinbußen und somit zu wirtschaftlichen Nachteilen. Neben der reinen optischen Probleme führen insbesondere Krumpfungen zu Kragengrößenreduzierungen, derart, daß ein solches Hemd nicht mehr zweckgemäß geschlossen am Kragen getragen werden kann.These complaints often lead to damage to the reputation of the market, combined with a drop in sales and thus to economic disadvantages. In addition to the purely optical problems, shrinkage in particular leads to a reduction in the size of the collar, such that such a shirt can no longer be worn appropriately closed on the collar.
Der Erfindung liegt deshalb die Aufgabe zugrunde, eine gattungsgemäße Einlage so auszubilden, daß sie all die geschilderten Nachteile nicht mehr aufweist.The invention is therefore based on the object of designing a generic insert such that it no longer has all the disadvantages described.
Zur Lösung dieser Aufgabe lehrt die Erfindung, ein gewebtes textiles Flächengebilde einzusetzen, welches in Kett- und Schußfaden ein Synthetikgarn enthält, wobei das Schußgarn mindestens teilweise aus einem Kräuselgarn besteht und das Gesamtgewebe anschließend punktförmig mit einer heißsiegelfähigen Klebemasse auf der Basis von Copolyestern und/oder Niederdruckpolyethylen mit einer Punktdichte von 600 - 1400 Punkten /inch² beschichtet wird. Eine erfindungsgemäß gestaltete Hemdeinlage ist von so überraschender Güte, daß sie als Innovationssprung angesehen werden muß. Sie zeichnet sich durch folgende Merkmale aus:
- hohe Elastizität; dadurch mitgehend im Krumpfverhalten des Hemdstoffes
- sehr niedriger Kett- und Schußkrumpf
- bei der Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Einlage entfallen im Vergleich zur bisher verwendeten Baumwolleinlage vier BearbeitungsschritteTo achieve this object, the invention teaches to use a woven fabric which contains a synthetic yarn in warp and weft thread, the weft yarn at least partially consisting of a crimped yarn and the entire fabric subsequently punctiform with a heat-sealable adhesive based on copolyesters and / or Low pressure polyethylene with a point density of 600 - 1400 points / inch² is coated. A shirt insert designed according to the invention is of such surprising quality that it must be viewed as a leap in innovation. It is characterized by the following features:
- high elasticity; thereby in the shrinking behavior of the shirt fabric
- very low warp and weft shrink
- In the manufacture of the insert according to the invention, four processing steps are omitted in comparison to the cotton insert previously used
Als besonders vorteilhaft ist der ungewöhnlich niedrige Krumpf und die hohe Elastizität hervorzuheben. Gerade diese beiden Eigenschaften schaffen eine nicht mehr erwartete Harmonie zwischen der Einlage und dem Oberstoff, die sich in einem
- einwandfreiem Warenbild
- ohne Kragenverengung
nach der Kochwäsche äußert.Particularly noteworthy is the unusually low shrinkage and high elasticity. It is precisely these two properties that create an unexpected harmony between the inlay and the outer fabric, which are in one
- perfect product appearance
- without neck constriction
after the wash.
Weitere zweckmäßige Ausgestaltungen der Erfindung werden in den Unteransprüchen gekennzeichnet.Further expedient refinements of the invention are characterized in the subclaims.
So hat es sich als besonders vorteilhaft herausgestellt, wenn als Schußgarn ein texturierter Polyester verwendet wird. Polyester ist als krumpfbeständiges und wasch- bzw. reinigungsbeständiges Material im Textilbereich bekannt.It has turned out to be particularly advantageous if a textured polyester is used as the weft yarn. Polyester is known as a shrink-resistant and washable or cleaning-resistant material in the textile sector.
Auch der Einsatz von Hochbauschgarnen aus Polyacrylnitril im Schuß stellt eine positive Ausgestaltung der Erfindung dar. So wird z.B. der volumige Charakter der Einlage, der durch Hochbauschgarne erzeugt wird, geschätzt.The use of high construction yarns made of polyacrylonitrile in the weft also represents a positive embodiment of the invention. the voluminous nature of the insert, which is produced by high-rise yarns, is appreciated.
Die Anmeldung berücksichtigt auch die Verwendung eines Polyestergarnes in Kettrichtung. Hierzu eignen sich Polyestergarne aus Multifilamenten und Stapelfasern.The registration also takes into account the use of a polyester yarn in the warp direction. Polyester yarns made of multifilaments and staple fibers are suitable for this.
Als weitere Ausgestaltung der Erfindung gilt ein Gewebe, welches im Kettund/oder Schußgarn Filamente unterschiedlicher Polymerzusammensetzung hat. Dies bedeutet, daß beispielsweise das Kettgarn aus einem anderen Polymer besteht als das Schußgarn.A further embodiment of the invention is a fabric which has filaments of different polymer composition in the warp and / or weft yarn. This means that, for example, the warp yarn is made of a different polymer than the weft yarn.
Darüber hinaus besteht aber auch die Möglichkeit, daß ein multifiles Kettgarn bzw. Schußgarn aus einem Gemisch verschiedener polymerer Einzelfilamente besteht. So kann auch das Kettgarn aus einem Polymer und das Schußgarn aus einem Polymergemisch bestehen. Es lassen sich aber auch Polymergarne mit einem geringen Anteil an Naturfasern einsetzen.In addition, there is also the possibility that a multifilament warp yarn or weft yarn consists of a mixture of different polymeric individual filaments. The warp yarn can also consist of a polymer and the weft yarn can consist of a polymer mixture. However, polymer yarns with a low proportion of natural fibers can also be used.
Die Erfindung sieht auch vor, im Schuß- und Kettgarn verschiedene Farbtöne einzusetzen. Dies schließt nicht aus, daß auch das Kettgarn an sich bzw. das Schußgarn aus einer Farbkombination, hervorgerufen durch unterschiedlich gefärbte Einzelfilamente, besteht.The invention also provides for different colors to be used in the weft and warp yarn. This does not exclude that the warp yarn itself or the weft yarn also consists of a color combination, caused by differently colored individual filaments.
Des weiteren wird beansprucht, ein erfindungsgemäß gestaltetes Fertiggewebe einzufärben. Hier ist es bei einigen, insbesondere farbig gestalteten Hemdoberstoffen ratsam, die Einlage dem Hemdenfarbton anzupassen, um ein Durchscheinen der Einlage zu vermeiden.Furthermore, it is claimed to dye a finished fabric designed according to the invention. Here it is advisable for some, especially colored shirt outer fabrics, to adapt the insert to the shirt color in order to prevent the insert from showing through.
Die Erfindung berücksichtigt auch eine Einlage im Hemdenbereich, welche im Kettund/oder Schußgarn markiert ist. Als Markierung kann sowohl ein optischer Aufheller gelten als auch ein Röntgenkontrastmittel sowie Metallfasern etc. Aufgabe der Markierungen ist, eine Identifizierung hinsichtlich Qualität,The invention also takes into account an insert in the shirt area which is marked in the warp and / or weft yarn. Both an optical brightener and an X-ray contrast medium as well as metal fibers etc. can be used as the marking. The function of the marking is to identify the quality,
Lage, Leitfähigkeit etc. zuzulassen. Dies kann bei der Herstelllung der Einlage im Qualitätskontrollbereich oder bei späteren Einsatzmöglichkeiten von Interesse sein. Die Markierung kann sowohl im Kett- und Schußgarn Einzelfilamente betreffen als auch einzelne Fasern und Faserbereiche.Location, conductivity, etc. This can be of interest for the production of the insert in the quality control area or for later uses. The marking can relate to single filaments in warp and weft yarn as well as individual fibers and fiber areas.
Die Erfindung sieht auch vor, die Einlage als flammfest ausgerüsteten Artikel herzustellen. Dabei besteht die Möglichkeit, daß entweder die Fasern selbst oder das fertige Gewebe flammfest ausgerüstet wird bzw. durch die Vorabauswahl geeigneter Materialien eine Flammfestausrüstung angestrebt wird.The invention also provides for the insert to be manufactured as a flame-retardant article. There is the possibility that either the fibers themselves or the finished fabric will be given a flame-resistant finish or that a flame-resistant finish will be sought through the pre-selection of suitable materials.
Tendenziell ist im Markt eine Zunahme der feineren Monofilamente zu beobachten, die von der Faserfeinheit unterhalb von 1 dtex liegen. Diese Materialien werden den sogenannten Mikrofasern zugeordnet. Aus Mikrofasern hergestellte Gewebe zeigen ein sehr anschmiegsames Verhalten. Aus Mikrofasern hergestellte Gewebe, die den Ansprüchen der Erfindung genügen, sind ebenfalls als Einlage im Hemdenbereich vorteilhaft einsetzbar.There is a tendency to observe an increase in the finer monofilaments in the market, which are below 1 dtex in fiber fineness. These materials are assigned to the so-called microfibers. Fabrics made from microfibers show a very supple behavior. Fabrics made from microfibers that meet the requirements of the invention can also be used advantageously as an insert in the shirt area.
Entscheidenden Einfluß auf die Qualität der Hemdeneinlage hat natürlich auch die Beschichtung mit einer heißsiegelfähigen Klebemassse. Als besonders vorteilhaft haben sich im Bereich der Einlagen punktförmige Beschichtungen erwiesen. Zur Auftragung von punktförmigen Beschichtungen haben sich verschiedene Verfahren etabliert, so daß all die bekannten Verfahren auch zur Beschichtung von gewebten, erfindungsgemäß gestalteten Hemdeneinlagen, benutzt werden können. Dazu zählt das Verfahren der Pulverpunktbeschichtung, der Pastenpunktbeschichtung oder der Pastenpunktbeschichtung mit anschließendem Streupulverauftrag vor der Thermobehandlung. Das zuletzt genannte Verfahren , auch Double-Spot-Verfahren genannt, ist ausführlicher in der deutschen Patentanmeldung P 2214236 beschrieben.Of course, the coating with a heat-sealable adhesive also has a decisive influence on the quality of the shirt insert. Punctiform coatings have proven to be particularly advantageous in the area of the inserts. Various methods have been established for the application of punctiform coatings, so that all the known methods can also be used for coating woven shirt inserts designed according to the invention. This includes the process of powder point coating, paste point coating or paste point coating with subsequent application of scatter powder before the thermal treatment. The last-mentioned method, also called double-spot method, is described in more detail in German patent application P 2214236.
Ein ganz gravierender Vorteil der neuen vollsynthetischen Hemdeinlage ist, daß die gewebte Rohware keine besonderen Behandlungsschritte benötigt, sondern direkt mit einer heißsiegelfähigen Klebemasse beschichtet werden kann. Im Gegensatz zur Baumwolleinlage entfallen beispielsweise vollständig der Bleichvorgang, die Krumpfstabilisierungsbehandlungen mit reaktiven Kunstharzen und Sanforisiervorgänge.A very serious advantage of the new fully synthetic shirt insert is that the woven raw material does not require any special treatment steps, but can be coated directly with a heat-sealable adhesive. In contrast to the cotton insert, for example, the bleaching process, the shrinkage stabilization treatments with reactive synthetic resins and sanforizing processes are completely eliminated.
Nach dem Auftrag von Beschichtungspunkten, die auf heißsiegelfähigen Klebemassen basieren, kann noch ein Kalandriervorgang durchgeführt werden. Dieser Kalandriervorgang flacht die vorhandenen Punkte ab und verbreitert ebenfalls die mit Klebemasse bedeckte Fläche der Hemdeneinlage. Als eine erforderliche Ausgestaltung der Erfindung hat sich eine Pulverpunktbeschichtung mit Niederdruckpolyethylenpulver oder Polyesterpulver, welche mit dem Pulverpunktbeschichtungsverfahren aufgetragen werden, herausgestellt. Zur Sicherstellung einer glatten Optik der Oberseite des Hemdenstoffes wird eine Punktrasterbeschichtung von 600 - 1400 Punkten/inch² ausgeführt. Auch das anschließende Kalandern hat sich als produktverbessernd gezeigt. Der Durchschlag durch den Hemdenstoff wird damit vermieden.After applying coating points based on heat-sealable adhesives, a calendering process can be carried out. This calendering process flattens the existing points and also widens the area of the shirt insert covered with adhesive. A powder coating with low-pressure polyethylene powder or polyester powder, which is applied using the powder coating method, has proven to be a necessary embodiment of the invention. To ensure a smooth appearance of the top of the shirt fabric, a dot pattern coating of 600 - 1400 dots / inch² is carried out. The subsequent calendering has also shown to improve the product. The penetration through the shirt fabric is avoided.
Je nach Einsatzzweck und Qualität des Hemdenstoffes hat sich ein Auftragsgewicht für die synthetische Gewebeeinlage bei einseitig aufgebrachter Klebemasse zwischen 13 und 30 g/m² und vorzugsweise bereits zwischen 15 und 20 g/m² zur Sicherstellung der erforderlichen Waschsicherheit des Reinigungsverbundes herausgestellt.Depending on the intended use and quality of the shirt material, an application weight for the synthetic fabric insert with adhesive applied on one side has been found to be between 13 and 30 g / m² and preferably already between 15 and 20 g / m² to ensure the required washing safety of the cleaning association.
Die Erfindung sieht ebenfalls vor, eine Einlage nicht nur einseitig, sondern beidseitig, zu beschichten. Dies stellt heute noch keine Standardmethode dar, kann jedoch für spezielle Anforderungen die Einsatzbreite erweitern.The invention also provides for coating an insert not only on one side but on both sides. This is not yet a standard method, but can expand the range of applications for special requirements.
Insgesamt gesehen stellt die erfindungsgemäße Hemdeneinlage einen Fortschritt dar, der, nach Jahren des Herumprobierens mit anderen Einlagen, nicht mehr zu erwarten war. Die durch die erfindungsgemäße Ausgestaltung der Einlage geschaffene Harmonie zwischen Hemdoberstoff und Einlage führt zu einer so großen Produktverbesserung, daß ein großes wirtschaftliches Einsatzgebiet zu erwarten ist. Außerdem ergeben sich zwangsläufig durch die Einsparung von Prozeßschritten bei der Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Einlage, im Vergleich zu früher verwendeten Baumwolleinlagen, erhebliche Vorteile. Diese Vorteile manifestieren sich nicht nur in einer Reduzierung der Bearbeitungsschritte, sondern auch in einem Wegfall an chemisch belasteten Abwässern und Abdämpfen. Dieser Umweltaspekt sollte eine weitere Triebkraft zum verstärkten Einsatz der erfindungsgemäßen Hemdeneinlage darstellen.Taken as a whole, the shirt insert according to the invention represents progress which, after years of trying around with other inserts, was no longer to be expected. The harmony between the shirt outer fabric and the insert created by the design of the insert according to the invention leads to such a great improvement in the product that a large economic field of use can be expected. In addition, the saving of process steps in the manufacture of the insert according to the invention inevitably results in considerable advantages compared to cotton inserts previously used. These advantages are manifested not only in a reduction in the number of processing steps, but also in the elimination of chemically contaminated waste water and steaming. This environmental aspect should represent a further driving force for the increased use of the shirt insert according to the invention.
Die Erfindung soll noch an einem besonders vorteilhaft gestaltetem Ausführungsbeispiel näher erläutert werden. Die erfindungsgemäße Einlage wurde für den Einsatz bei Hemden konzipiert.The invention will be explained in more detail using a particularly advantageous embodiment. The insert according to the invention was designed for use in shirts.
Eine derart gestaltete Einlage läßt sich jedoch auch bei artähnlichen Anwendungen nutzen.Such an insert can, however, also be used in similar applications.
In Fig. 1 ist ein schematisches Ausführungsbeispiel der erfindungsgemäßen Hemdeinlage dargestellt. Das Gewebe 1 besteht aus multifilen Polyester-Kettfäden 2 und Schußfäden aus Kräuselgarn 3. Das Gewebe ist auf der vom Betrachter abgewandten Seite mit einer heißsiegelfähigen Klebemasse im Punktraster beschichtet und anschließend kalandert worden.In Fig. 1 a schematic embodiment of the shirt insert according to the invention is shown. The
Hemdeneinlage mit heißsiegelfähiger Klebemasse beschichtet, der folgenden Art:
Bindungsart: Leinenbindung
Kettgarn: Polyester 78/24 dtex, optisch aufgehellt
Schußgarn: Polyester 76/24 dtex texturiert, optisch aufgehellt
Fertigschußdichte: 200-205 pro 10cm
Kettfadendichte: 361 auf einer Breite von 10 cm
Beschichtung: Pulverpunkt aus Niederdruckpolyethylenpulver
Nachbehandlung der Beschichtung: Kalandern
Auftragsgewicht: 16 - 20 g/m²
Krumpf: Einlage gegen sich selbst fixiert, nach einer 90°C Kochwäsche, Krumpf < 1,5% in Kette und Schuß
Gesamtgewicht: ca. 80 g/m².Shirt insert coated with heat sealable adhesive, of the following type:
Type of weave: plain weave
Warp yarn: polyester 78/24 dtex, optically lightened
Weft yarn: Polyester 76/24 dtex textured, optically brightened
Ready shot density: 200-205 per 10cm
Warp thread density: 361 over a width of 10 cm
Coating: powder point made of low pressure polyethylene powder
After-treatment of the coating: calendering
Application weight: 16 - 20 g / m²
Shrink: insert fixed against itself, after a 90 ° C wash, shrink <1.5% in warp and weft
Total weight: approx. 80 g / m².
Die Einlagen wurden bei ca. 145°C Fugentemperatur über ca. 15 s und einem Druck von 2000 p/cm² gegeneinander fixiert.The inserts were fixed against each other at a joint temperature of approx. 145 ° C for approx. 15 s and a pressure of 2000 p / cm².
Claims (16)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
DE3925893 | 1989-08-04 | ||
DE3925893A DE3925893A1 (en) | 1989-08-04 | 1989-08-04 | FULLY SYNTHETIC HEAT-SEALABLE SHIRT INJECTION |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0411656A1 true EP0411656A1 (en) | 1991-02-06 |
EP0411656B1 EP0411656B1 (en) | 1994-05-18 |
Family
ID=6386554
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP90114962A Expired - Lifetime EP0411656B1 (en) | 1989-08-04 | 1990-08-03 | Fully synthetic fusion-bondable interlining for shirts |
Country Status (8)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US5075151A (en) |
EP (1) | EP0411656B1 (en) |
JP (1) | JPH0382845A (en) |
KR (1) | KR0148576B1 (en) |
CN (1) | CN1050063A (en) |
AT (1) | ATE105878T1 (en) |
DE (2) | DE3925893A1 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2053033T3 (en) |
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US5236771A (en) * | 1991-02-25 | 1993-08-17 | Lainiere De Picardie | Composite lining fabric and process for producing it |
EP0594892A1 (en) * | 1992-09-25 | 1994-05-04 | CASA BERNARDO Ltda | Reinforced 100% polyester material used as applicator for holding pest control agents and process for its manufacture |
WO1998017134A1 (en) * | 1996-10-23 | 1998-04-30 | Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh | Elastic interlining |
FR2763482A1 (en) * | 1997-05-26 | 1998-11-27 | Picardie Lainiere | THERMAL ADHESIVE COVERING WITH LARGE TITRATION FILAMENTS |
CN104544648A (en) * | 2015-01-16 | 2015-04-29 | 南通海汇科技发展有限公司 | High-count, high-mesh and pure-cotton weaving adhesive interlining and production method thereof |
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CA2091477C (en) * | 1993-03-11 | 1998-02-10 | Claude Barbeau | Textile material for inner lining of firefighter protective garment |
DE4408813C1 (en) * | 1994-03-16 | 1995-10-05 | Freudenberg Carl Fa | Process for making a nonwoven composite and interposed nonwoven composite |
JP3123398B2 (en) * | 1995-07-26 | 2001-01-09 | トヨタ自動車株式会社 | Continuous variable valve timing control device for internal combustion engine |
FR2806266B1 (en) * | 2000-03-17 | 2002-06-07 | Picardie Lainiere | HEAT-STICKING TEXTILE SUPPORT AND MANUFACTURING METHOD THEREOF |
JP2002232957A (en) | 2001-02-06 | 2002-08-16 | Nec Corp | Mobile phone speech method and device |
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JP4259569B2 (en) | 2006-11-10 | 2009-04-30 | トヨタ自動車株式会社 | Spark ignition internal combustion engine |
CN104562384A (en) * | 2008-04-25 | 2015-04-29 | 旭化成纤维株式会社 | Thin woven fabric |
CN101496649B (en) * | 2009-02-25 | 2012-04-25 | 江苏三泰轻工科技有限公司 | Dress lining cloth with hot melt adhesive transferred towards fabric after press adhesion |
CN102514262A (en) * | 2011-09-30 | 2012-06-27 | 江苏月龙服饰有限公司 | Scald-proof down jacket |
US20130150764A1 (en) * | 2011-12-09 | 2013-06-13 | Tyco Healthcare Group Lp | Non-Adherent Wound Dressings and Related Methods Therefor |
US9402770B2 (en) | 2011-12-09 | 2016-08-02 | Covidien | Antimicrobial non-adherent dressings and related methods therefor |
AT512370B1 (en) | 2011-12-21 | 2013-10-15 | Sattler Ag | TEXTILE SURFACE PATTERN WITH COLOR EFFECT |
US9533855B2 (en) | 2012-01-24 | 2017-01-03 | Nike, Inc. | Intermittent weaving splicer |
US20130189890A1 (en) | 2012-01-24 | 2013-07-25 | Nike, Inc. | Weaving Using Reactive Materials |
JP2019094585A (en) * | 2017-11-21 | 2019-06-20 | 島田商事株式会社 | Method for producing garment |
DE102022104401A1 (en) | 2022-02-24 | 2023-08-24 | Gebauer Verwaltungs-GmbH | Method of manufacturing a fabric for an article of clothing |
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- 1990-08-02 JP JP2204035A patent/JPH0382845A/en active Pending
- 1990-08-03 CN CN90107255A patent/CN1050063A/en active Pending
- 1990-08-03 AT AT90114962T patent/ATE105878T1/en active
- 1990-08-03 ES ES90114962T patent/ES2053033T3/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1990-08-03 KR KR1019900011961A patent/KR0148576B1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1990-08-03 US US07/562,227 patent/US5075151A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1990-08-03 DE DE59005718T patent/DE59005718D1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1990-08-03 EP EP90114962A patent/EP0411656B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
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AT229817B (en) * | 1960-07-14 | 1963-10-25 | Hoechst Ag | tissue |
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AT332823B (en) * | 1973-08-21 | 1976-10-25 | Windel Fa Hermann | HOT SEALABLE INSERT |
Cited By (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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US5236771A (en) * | 1991-02-25 | 1993-08-17 | Lainiere De Picardie | Composite lining fabric and process for producing it |
EP0594892A1 (en) * | 1992-09-25 | 1994-05-04 | CASA BERNARDO Ltda | Reinforced 100% polyester material used as applicator for holding pest control agents and process for its manufacture |
WO1998017134A1 (en) * | 1996-10-23 | 1998-04-30 | Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh | Elastic interlining |
EP0842618A1 (en) * | 1996-10-23 | 1998-05-20 | Kufner Textilwerke GmbH | Resilient interlining |
FR2763482A1 (en) * | 1997-05-26 | 1998-11-27 | Picardie Lainiere | THERMAL ADHESIVE COVERING WITH LARGE TITRATION FILAMENTS |
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CN104544648A (en) * | 2015-01-16 | 2015-04-29 | 南通海汇科技发展有限公司 | High-count, high-mesh and pure-cotton weaving adhesive interlining and production method thereof |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
DE3925893A1 (en) | 1991-02-07 |
ES2053033T3 (en) | 1994-07-16 |
DE59005718D1 (en) | 1994-06-23 |
DE3925893C2 (en) | 1991-08-01 |
KR910004128A (en) | 1991-03-28 |
ATE105878T1 (en) | 1994-06-15 |
US5075151A (en) | 1991-12-24 |
KR0148576B1 (en) | 1998-12-01 |
JPH0382845A (en) | 1991-04-08 |
EP0411656B1 (en) | 1994-05-18 |
CN1050063A (en) | 1991-03-20 |
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