EP0187136A2 - Method for dyeing and lubricating sewing threads in a single bath - Google Patents

Method for dyeing and lubricating sewing threads in a single bath Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0187136A2
EP0187136A2 EP19860100042 EP86100042A EP0187136A2 EP 0187136 A2 EP0187136 A2 EP 0187136A2 EP 19860100042 EP19860100042 EP 19860100042 EP 86100042 A EP86100042 A EP 86100042A EP 0187136 A2 EP0187136 A2 EP 0187136A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
alkyl
weight
wax
finishing
yarns
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP19860100042
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0187136B1 (en
EP0187136A3 (en
Inventor
Jürgen Dr. Kurz
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CHT Germany GmbH
Original Assignee
BEITLICH R CHEM FAB
CHT R Beitlich GmbH
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/46—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing natural macromolecular substances or derivatives thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0004—General aspects of dyeing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0036—Dyeing and sizing in one process
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
    • D06P1/5207—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06P1/5214—Polymers of unsaturated compounds containing no COOH groups or functional derivatives thereof
    • D06P1/5221—Polymers of unsaturated hydrocarbons, e.g. polystyrene polyalkylene
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
    • D06P1/5264—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions involving only unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds
    • D06P1/5292—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions involving only unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds containing Si-atoms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/60—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing polyethers
    • D06P1/607—Nitrogen-containing polyethers or their quaternary derivatives
    • D06P1/6076—Nitrogen-containing polyethers or their quaternary derivatives addition products of amines and alkylene oxides or oxiranes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/64—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing low-molecular-weight organic compounds without sulfate or sulfonate groups
    • D06P1/642—Compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06P1/649—Compounds containing carbonamide, thiocarbonamide or guanyl groups
    • D06P1/6495—Compounds containing carbonamide -RCON= (R=H or hydrocarbons)
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/655—Compounds containing ammonium groups
    • D06P1/66—Compounds containing ammonium groups containing quaternary ammonium groups
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S8/00—Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification of textiles and fibers
    • Y10S8/916—Natural fiber dyeing
    • Y10S8/918—Cellulose textile
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S8/00—Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification of textiles and fibers
    • Y10S8/92—Synthetic fiber dyeing
    • Y10S8/922—Polyester fiber
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S8/00—Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification of textiles and fibers
    • Y10S8/92—Synthetic fiber dyeing
    • Y10S8/924—Polyamide fiber

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a process for finishing sewing thread from synthetic threads, native threads or from core threads (e.g. spun threads from PES and Bw) according to the patent claim.
  • the present invention relates to a process for finishing sewing thread from synthetic yarns, native yarns or from soul yarns (for example spun threads from PES and Bw), which is characterized in that the finishing agent according to the invention is used in the dye bath and a simultaneous dyeing and Avivieren carried out in one process stage. In this process, the he did not mention disadvantages of the previously known sewing thread finishing methods.
  • Examples of synthetic yarns are polyester yarns (PES) and polyamide yarns (PA), such as PA 6.6.
  • Cotton yarns (BW) are examples of native yarns.
  • Examples of core yarns are core threads made from polyester (PES) and cotton (Bw).
  • weight percentages given above are each based on the finishing agent in the form of the aqueous dispersion.
  • the following explanations apply to the individual components a) to h).
  • Component a) Its amount is generally 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 5 to 50% by weight, and in particular 20 to 40% by weight.
  • a silicone oil for example a methyl silicone oil (in particular dimethylpolysiloxane) with a viscosity of 500 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 2000 to 30,000 mPa.s, in each case at 25 ° C.
  • longer-chain alkyl groups such as ethyl or propyl groups
  • / or phenyl groups can also be present as substituents in the silicone oil.
  • the chain ends are formed from trimethylsilyl groups and, to a limited extent, also from dimethylhydroxysilyl groups.
  • the amount of silicone oil in the agents according to the invention depends on the type of sewing thread to be treated. In the case of synthetic yarns, preparations with a high proportion of silicone oil (for example 20 to 50% by weight) can be used. If the sewing thread consists essentially or at least on its surface of native fiber material, then finishing agents can be used whose silicone content is reduced in favor of the wax component; the agent can then contain, for example, 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 5% by weight, of silicone oil.
  • Component b) Its amount is generally 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 2 to 10% by weight.
  • the sophisticated waxes each have a melting point of ⁇ 35 ° C.
  • Carnauba wax and jojoba oil are particularly worth mentioning as examples of plant waxes.
  • Beeswax and wool wax in particular are examples of animal waxes.
  • Montan waxes are, for example, ester and acid waxes produced by refining montan wax. Paraffin waxes are particularly noteworthy among the waxes from petroleum.
  • polyolefin waxes for example, high-pressure polyethylene wax oxidates and low-pressure polyolefin wax oxidates should be mentioned.
  • Fully refined paraffins are preferred (oil content: for example 0.5% by weight, color: pure white, odor: none) and / or semi-refined paraffins (oil content: for example 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, color: pure white, odor: low), as described in "Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Technical Chemistry", volume 24, Verlag Chemie GmbH, D -6940 Weinheim, 1980 are described.
  • lubricants are macrocrystalline paraffins (paraffin waxes) with a melting point between 40 and 65 ° C. Higher-melting microcrystalline paraffins (microwaxes) are also suitable. These are then preferred (for the purpose of easier emulsification) blended with lower melting paraffins; Mixtures of 10 to 30 parts by weight of low-melting paraffin and 90 to 70 parts by weight of higher-melting paraffin should be mentioned in particular. Mixtures of different waxes can also be used.
  • the amount of this component which may be present is generally 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight.
  • alkyl radicals with C 12 -C 14 , with C 16 -C 18 and with C 22 are preferred.
  • the alkyl chain lengths of R 2 and R 3 are in particular alkyl radicals with C 1 , with C 2 , with C 12 -C 14 and with C 16 -C 18 .
  • Methyl and ethyl are particularly preferred as alkyl chain lengths for R 4 .
  • Examples of salt-forming anions A include, in particular, chlorides and methosulfates and ethosulfates.
  • alkyl radicals with C 12 -C 14 , with C 16 - C 18 and with C 22 can be mentioned, for example.
  • Component d) Its amount is generally 1 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight.
  • C 12 -C 22 fatty acid components are those with C 12 -C 14 , with C 16 -C 18 and with C 22 , in particular stearic acid or behenic acid.
  • alkanolamine for example
  • the salts can be formed with inorganic acids or with lower organic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • Preferred salts of inorganic acids are chlorides, sulfates, formates and acetates.
  • Component f) Its amount is generally 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 5% by weight.
  • the chain length of the fatty alcohol, fatty acid or fatty acid ester component mentioned is, for example, C 12 -C 14 or C 16 -C 18.
  • those having 15 to 25 mol of EO are preferred.
  • Constituent g The amount of this component which may be present is generally 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight.
  • Castor oil x 8 EO should only be mentioned as an example for the demanding group.
  • Constituent h The amount of this component which may be present is generally 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight.
  • examples include those with C 12 -C 14 or with C 16 -C 18 alkyl radicals.
  • ethylene oxide addition products mentioned are those with 2 to 10 moles EO preferred.
  • Oleylamine x 2 EO and stearylamine x 5 EO are only examples of representatives of component h).
  • the components c), d) and e) fulfill several functions, depending on whether the yarn consists of synthetic, native or soul yarn.
  • the agents according to the invention they act on the one hand as anti-electrostatics, as softening agents and in a synergism with the waxes also as lubricants, on the other hand they have a stabilizing effect, act as co-emulsifiers in the preparation of the preparations (finishing agents) and promote the uniform pull-out behavior of the agents during the dyeing process.
  • the constituents f), g) and h) act as emulsifiers in the preparation of the dyebath finishing agents, promote the anti-electrostatic activity of the auxiliaries described and stabilize the use of the agents in the individual dyeing liquors.
  • the finishing agents can be manufactured in various ways. They are preferably prepared in such a way that components a) and b) are emulsified separately, the emulsifier f) being used alone or together with the emulsifiers g) and / or h).
  • the components c), d) and e) are preferably emulsified together with component b).
  • the resulting dispersions of a) and b) can be mixed with one another after completion, or the emulsion of component b) can be used to emulsify a pre-emulsion of component a).
  • water is the outer phase, i.e. it is oil-in-water emulsions (0 / W emuls sion).
  • the emulsions can either be produced without pressure (water-in-wax process or wax-in-water process) or in a low-pressure autoclave.
  • it is advantageous to homogenize the agents for example by pumping the mixtures through a colloid mill and / or a high-pressure homogenizing machine.
  • the finishing agent can be used in different amounts in the dye bath.
  • the amount of the finishing agent is advantageously 5 to 25% by weight, in particular 10 to 20% by weight, of the weight of the goods to be dyed.
  • the usual dye classes for sewing thread are therefore only mentioned ummarisch. These are: the usual disperse dyes at PES; for PA 6.6 the usual acid dyes, but also usual 1: 2 metal complex dyes and occasionally also usual dispersion dyes for light colors; in the case of PES / Bw mixtures of customary disperse and customary reactive or custom vat dyes; and at Bw the class of the usual reactive and vat dyes.
  • the dyeing liquor can (apart from the dyes) contain the usual dyeing aids, e.g. Dispersing, leveling and adjusting agents as well as coloring accelerators.
  • finishing agent dispersions are applied in the customary manner in customary dyeing apparatuses such as are used for dyeing textile yarns. Before is carried out in liquor ratios of 1 4 to 1 50, in particular 1 4 to 1:15 and at temperatures of 40 to 140 ° C, preferably 100 to 140 ° C.
  • the indication ( * ) for the disperse dye in Example 1, number 2 and for the disperse / vat dye in Example 2, number 2 means that the amount of dye to be used depends on the desired shade; the dye specialist is familiar with the setting of this amount of dye and can be found at any time on the color cards of the color manufacturers.
  • the liquor is preferably pumped alternately through the winding former and / or coils, e.g. 4 minutes from outside to inside and 2 minutes from inside to outside.
  • HT conditions ie high temperature conditions
  • dye for 30 to 60 minutes at 130 to 135 ° C HT drain or cool
  • the dye liquor is perfectly stable. There are no precipitates between the weakly cationic preparation according to the invention and the anionic dispersing, leveling and adjusting agents.
  • the color and rub fastness correspond to the high demands usual in the sewing thread sector.
  • the sewing thread is fully equipped, has the required sliding and sewing properties and, after drying, does not require any further finishing before winding into the sales presentation.
  • PES / Bw sewing thread made of soul thread consisting of a PES filament core and a Bw sheath
  • PES / Bw sewing thread made of soul thread consisting of a PES filament core and a Bw sheath
  • is pre-cleaned in the usual way e.g. according to Example 1.2
  • optionally with the addition of 1 g / l of an anionic complexing agent and then, as described below, in dyed and finished at the same time in a process step: a mixture of disperse and vat dyes is selected here - only as an example.
  • the liquor circulation is set to 4 minutes outside, 2 minutes inside-outside (see example 1.2), heated to 1.5 to 2 ° / min to 130 to 135 ° C (HT conditions), and colored for 30 to 45 minutes 130 to 135 ° C, cools, veils and then oxidizes as prescribed for vat dyes.
  • the dye liquor is perfectly stable.
  • the sewing thread complies with the usual quality requirements and does not require any further finishing before winding into the sales presentation.
  • the preparation is again used as a finishing agent in the dyebath of sewing thread made of synthetic yarns, native yarns and core yarns, as described in Examples 1 and 2, and enables simultaneous dyeing and finishing in one process step.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
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Abstract

Die Erfindung betrifft ein Verfahren, Nähgarn gleichzeitig zu färben und zu avivieren, wobei die eingesetzten Avivage-Mittel im wesentlichen aus einer Kombination von Dispersionen von Siliconölen, Wachsen und Fettsäurekondensationsprodukten bestehen.The invention relates to a process for dyeing and finishing sewing thread at the same time, the finishing agents used essentially consisting of a combination of dispersions of silicone oils, waxes and fatty acid condensation products.

Description

Die Erfindung betrifft ein Verfahren zur Ausrüstung (Avivage) von Nähgarn aus synthetischen Garnen, nativen Garnen oder aus Seelen-Garnen (z.B. Umspinnungszwirnen aus PES und Bw) gemäß dem Patentansprucn.The invention relates to a process for finishing sewing thread from synthetic threads, native threads or from core threads (e.g. spun threads from PES and Bw) according to the patent claim.

Es ist bekannt, Nähgarn mit Mitteln zu behandeln, die Diorganopolysiloxane als Hitzeschutzmittel und Paraffinwachse als Gleitmittel enthalten, beispielsweise aus DE-OS 21 61 813 und 25 35 768. Die für diese Behandlung eingesetzten Techniken sind vielfältig. So kennt man bis heute das Galettenverfahren (DE-OS 21 62 417 und 27 08 650), das Tauchverfahren (DE-OS 27 53 200) und das Ausziehverfahren (DE-OS 28 16 196 und 31 15 679). Als Nachteile der einzelnen Verfahren sind zu nennen: beim Galettenverfahren der aufwendige Avivageprozeß am einzelnen Faden, beim Tauchverfahren die beschränkte Wiederverwendbarkeit der Tauchbäder und beim Ausziehverfahren die Notwendigkeit des Erwärmens und einer genauen Einstellung des pH-Wertes.It is known to treat sewing thread with agents which contain diorganopolysiloxanes as heat protection agents and paraffin waxes as lubricants, for example from DE-OS 21 61 813 and 25 35 768. The techniques used for this treatment are varied. The godet process (DE-OS 21 62 417 and 27 08 650), the immersion process (DE-OS 27 53 200) and the exhaust process (DE-OS 28 16 196 and 31 15 679) are known to this day. Disadvantages of the individual processes are mentioned: in the godet process, the complex finishing process on the individual thread, in the immersion process, the limited reusability of the immersion baths and in the exhaust process, the need for heating and an exact adjustment of the pH.

Alle bisher gebräuchlichen Avivageverfahren haben darüber hinaus einen gemeinsamen Nachteil: sie erfordern nach Beendigung der Färbephase eine zusätzliche Prozeßstufe.All of the finishing processes that have been used so far also have a common disadvantage: they require an additional process step after the dyeing phase has ended.

Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ein Verfahren zur Ausrüstung von Nähgarn aus synthetischen Garnen, nativen Garnen oder aus Seelen-Garnen (z.B. Umspinnungszwirnen aus PES und Bw), das dadurch gekennzeichnet ist,daß das anspruchsgemäße Avivagemittel im Färbebad eingesetzt wird und man ein gleichzeitiges Färben und Avivieren in einer Prozeßstufe durchführt. Bei diesem Verfahren treten die erwähnten Nachteile der bisher bekannten Nähgarn-Ausrüstungsmethoden nicht auf.The present invention relates to a process for finishing sewing thread from synthetic yarns, native yarns or from soul yarns (for example spun threads from PES and Bw), which is characterized in that the finishing agent according to the invention is used in the dye bath and a simultaneous dyeing and Avivieren carried out in one process stage. In this process, the he did not mention disadvantages of the previously known sewing thread finishing methods.

Das erfindungsgemäße Verfahren wird durch eine besondere Zusammensetzung des eingesetzten Avivage-Mittels ermöglicht, wie sie nachstehend erläutert wird.The process according to the invention is made possible by a special composition of the finishing agent used, as will be explained below.

Die Anmelderin hat festgestellt, daß beim Einsatz der anspruchsgemäßen Avivage-Mittel in dem (Farbstoffe enthaltenden) Färbebad keinerlei Störung des Färbeverlaufs, des Farbstoffauszugs und der Echtheiten der gefärbten Garne auftritt. Dies ist um so überraschender, als im Bad anionische und kationische Bestandteile vorhanden sind. Die im gleichen Bad gleichzeitig gefärbten und avivierten Garne genügen überraschenderweise in allen Anforderungen dem Qualitätsstandard, der bisher in zwei oder mehr Arbeitsgängen erhalten wurde. Somit ermöglicht die Erfindung eine überaus wirtschaftliche Arbeitsweise unter Einsparung von Zeit und von einem oder mehreren Behandlungsbädern.The applicant has found that when the finishing agents according to the claims are used in the dyebath (containing dyes), there is no disruption to the course of the dyeing, the dye extraction and the fastness of the dyed yarns. This is all the more surprising since anionic and cationic components are present in the bath. The yarns dyed and finished in the same bathroom surprisingly meet all the requirements of the quality standard that was previously obtained in two or more operations. The invention thus enables an extremely economical operation, saving time and one or more treatment baths.

Nachstehend wird die Erfindung im einzelnen erläutert.The invention is explained in detail below.

Als synthetische Garne sind beispielsweise zu nennen Polyestergarne (PES) und Polyamidgarne (PA), wie PA 6,6. Als native Garne sind beispielsweise Baumwollgarne (Bw) zu nennen. Beispiele für Seelen-Garne sind Umspinnungszwirne aus Polyester (PES) und Baumwolle (Bw).Examples of synthetic yarns are polyester yarns (PES) and polyamide yarns (PA), such as PA 6.6. Cotton yarns (BW) are examples of native yarns. Examples of core yarns are core threads made from polyester (PES) and cotton (Bw).

Die besonderen, für das erfindungsgemäße Verfahren geeigneten Avivage-Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie folgende Bestandteile, in Wasser dispergiert oder gelöst, enthalten:

  • a) 1 bis 80 Gew.-% Siliconöl einer Viskosität von 500 bis 100 000 mPa.s bei 25°C;
  • b) 1 bis 50 Gew.-% Pflanzenwachs, tierisches Wachs, Montanwachs, Wachs aus Erdöl (insbesondere Paraffinwachs) und/oder Polyolefin-Wachs, wobei diese Wachse einen Schmelzpunkt von jeweils ≧ 35°C haben;
  • c) 0 bis 20 Gew.-% einer quartären Ammonium-Verbindung der Formel
    Figure imgb0001
    • R1 = Alkyl C 12-C 22
    • R2 = Alkyl C1-C22
    • R3 = Alkyl C1-C22
    • R4 = Alkyl C 1-C4
    • A = salzbildendes Anion

    und/oder einer diquartären Ammonium-Verbindung der Formel
    Figure imgb0002
    worin R1, R2, R3, R4 und A wie oben definiert sind,und x 2 oder 3 bedeutet, und/oder eines Alkylimidazolinsalzes mit Akylresten von 12 bis 22 C-Atomen;
  • d) 1 bis 10 Gew.-% eines Fettsäure-Kondensationsproduktes, aufgebaut aus C12-C22 Fettsäuren und Alkanolaminen bzw. Polyaminen, in Form eines Salzes;
  • e) 0 bis 5 Gew.-% Aminoxid der Formel
    Figure imgb0003
    wobei R C8-12-Alkyl oder -Alkenyl, R1 C1-4-Alkyl, R2 H oder C1-4 Alkyl und n Zahlen von 0 bis 6 bedeuten;
  • f) 1 bis 10 Gew.-% nichtionogene Emulgatoren, Basis C 12-C22-Fettalkohol oder -Fettsäure oder Isotridecylfettsäureester,mit jeweils 2 bis 50 Mol angelagertem Ethylenoxid (EO);
  • g) 0 bis 10 Gew.-% nichtionogene Emulgatoren auf Basis ethoxylierter Triglyzeride;
  • h) 0 bis 10 Gew.-% kationaktive Emulgatoren, Basis C 12-C 22 Fettamin mit 2 bis 30 Mol angelagertem Ethylenoxid (EO).
The special finishing agents suitable for the process according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the following constituents, dispersed or dissolved in water:
  • a) 1 to 80 wt .-% silicone oil with a viscosity of 500 to 100,000 mPa.s at 25 ° C;
  • b) 1 to 50% by weight of vegetable wax, animal wax, montan wax, petroleum wax (especially paraffin wax) and / or polyolefin wax, these waxes each having a melting point of ≧ 35 ° C .;
  • c) 0 to 20 wt .-% of a quaternary ammonium compound of the formula
    Figure imgb0001
    • R 1 = alkyl C 12 -C 22
    • R 2 = alkyl C 1 -C 22
    • R 3 = alkyl C 1 -C 22
    • R 4 = alkyl C 1 -C 4
    • A = salt-forming anion

    and / or a diquartary ammonium compound of the formula
    Figure imgb0002
     wherein R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and A are as defined above, and x is 2 or 3, and / or an alkylimidazoline salt with alkyl radicals of 12 to 22 carbon atoms;
  • d) 1 to 10% by weight of a fatty acid condensation product, built up from C 12 -C 22 fatty acids and alkanolamines or polyamines, in the form of a salt;
  • e) 0 to 5 wt .-% amine oxide of the formula
    Figure imgb0003
     where RC 8-12 alkyl or alkenyl, R 1 is C 1-4 alkyl, R2 H or C 1-4 alkyl and n are numbers from 0 to 6;
  • f) 1 to 10% by weight of nonionic emulsifiers, based on C 12 -C 22 fatty alcohol or fatty acid or isotridecyl fatty acid ester, each with 2 to 50 mol of added ethylene oxide (EO);
  • g) 0 to 10% by weight of nonionic emulsifiers based on ethoxylated triglycerides;
  • h) 0 to 10 wt .-% cation-active emulsifiers, based on C 12 - C 22 fatty amine with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide added (EO).

Die vorstehend genannten Angaben in Gewichtsprozent sind jeweils auf das Avivage-Mittel in Form der wäßrigen Dispersion bezogen. Dabei gelten für die einzelnen Bestandteile a) bis h) folgende Erläuterungen.The weight percentages given above are each based on the finishing agent in the form of the aqueous dispersion. The following explanations apply to the individual components a) to h).

Bestandteil a): Seine Menge beträgt im allgemeinen 1 bis 80 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 5 bis 50 Gew.-%, und insbesondere 20 bis 40 Gew.-%. Als Siliconöl ist beispielsweise ein Methylsiliconöl (insbesondere Dimethylpolysiloxan) mit einer Viskosität von 500 bis 100 000 mPa.s, vorzugsweise 2000 bis 30 000 mPa.s, jeweils bei 25°C, zu nennen. In dem Siliconöl können aber auch längerkettige Alkylgruppen (wie z.B. Äthyl- oder Propylgruppen)und/oder Phenylgruppen, als Substituenten vorhanden sein. Die Kettenenden werden aus Trimethylsilylgruppen und in beschränkter Anzahl auch aus Dimethylhydroxysilylgruppen gebildet. Die Menge des Siliconöls in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln hängt von der Art des zu behandelnden Nähgarns ab. Bei synthetischen Garnen kann man Zubereitungen mit einem hohen Anteil an Siliconöl (z.B. 20 bis 50 Gew.-%) verwenden. Besteht das Nähgarn im wesentlichen oder zumindest an seiner Oberfläche aus nativem Fasermaterial, dann kann man Avivage-Mittel verwenden, deren Siliconanteil zugunsten des Wachsanteils erniedrigt ist; das Mittel kann dann z.B. 1 bis 20 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 1 bis 5 Gew.-%, Siliconöl enthalten.Component a): Its amount is generally 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 5 to 50% by weight, and in particular 20 to 40% by weight. As a silicone oil, for example a methyl silicone oil (in particular dimethylpolysiloxane) with a viscosity of 500 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 2000 to 30,000 mPa.s, in each case at 25 ° C. However, longer-chain alkyl groups (such as ethyl or propyl groups) and / or phenyl groups can also be present as substituents in the silicone oil. The chain ends are formed from trimethylsilyl groups and, to a limited extent, also from dimethylhydroxysilyl groups. The amount of silicone oil in the agents according to the invention depends on the type of sewing thread to be treated. In the case of synthetic yarns, preparations with a high proportion of silicone oil (for example 20 to 50% by weight) can be used. If the sewing thread consists essentially or at least on its surface of native fiber material, then finishing agents can be used whose silicone content is reduced in favor of the wax component; the agent can then contain, for example, 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 5% by weight, of silicone oil.

Bestandteil b): Seine Menge beträgt im allgemeinen 1 bis 50 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 1 bis 20 Gew.-%, und insbesondere 2 bis 10 Gew.-%. Die anspruchsgemäßen Wachse haben jeweils einen Schmelzpunkt von ≧ 35°C. Als Beispiel für Pflanzenwachse sind insbesondere Carnaubawachs und Jojobaöl zu nennen. Als Beispiele für tierische Wachse kommen insbesondere Bienenwachs und Wollwachs in Frage. Montanwachse sind beispielsweise durch Veredlung von Montanwachs hergestellte Ester- und Säurewachse. Unter den Wachsen aus Erdöl sind insbesondere Paraffinwachsezu nennen. Für Polyolefinwachse sind beispielsweise zu nennen Hochdruck-Polyethylenwachs-Oxidate und Niederdruck-Polyolefinwachs-Oxidate.Component b): Its amount is generally 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 2 to 10% by weight. The sophisticated waxes each have a melting point of ≧ 35 ° C. Carnauba wax and jojoba oil are particularly worth mentioning as examples of plant waxes. Beeswax and wool wax in particular are examples of animal waxes. Montan waxes are, for example, ester and acid waxes produced by refining montan wax. Paraffin waxes are particularly noteworthy among the waxes from petroleum. For polyolefin waxes, for example, high-pressure polyethylene wax oxidates and low-pressure polyolefin wax oxidates should be mentioned.

Bevorzugt sind vollraffinierte Paraffine (Ölgehalt: beispielsweise 0,5 Gew.-%, Farbe: rein weiß, Geruch: ohne) und/oder halbraffinierte Paraffine (Ölgehalt: beispielsweise 1,0 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, Farbe: rein weiß, Geruch: gering), wie sie in "Ullmanns Enzyklopädie der technischen Chemie", Band 24, Verlag Chemie GmbH, D-6940 Weinheim, 1980 beschrieben sind.Fully refined paraffins are preferred (oil content: for example 0.5% by weight, color: pure white, odor: none) and / or semi-refined paraffins (oil content: for example 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, color: pure white, odor: low), as described in "Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Technical Chemistry", volume 24, Verlag Chemie GmbH, D -6940 Weinheim, 1980 are described.

auch Bevorzugte Gleitmittel sind makrokristalline Paraffine (Paraffinwachse) mit einem Schmelzpunkt zwischen 40 und 65°C. In Frage kommen auch höherschmelzende mikrokristalline Paraffine (Mikrowachse). Diese werden dann bevorzugt(zum Zwecke der leichteren Emulgierung) mit niedriger schmelzenden Paraffinen verschnitten; hierbei sind insbesondere Mischungen von 10 bis 30 Gewichtsteilen nieder schmelzendem Paraffin und 90 bis 70 Gewichtsteilen höher schmelzendem Paraffin zu nennen. Es können auch Gemische aus verschiedenen Wachsen eingesetzt werden.Also preferred lubricants are macrocrystalline paraffins (paraffin waxes) with a melting point between 40 and 65 ° C. Higher-melting microcrystalline paraffins (microwaxes) are also suitable. These are then preferred (for the purpose of easier emulsification) blended with lower melting paraffins; Mixtures of 10 to 30 parts by weight of low-melting paraffin and 90 to 70 parts by weight of higher-melting paraffin should be mentioned in particular. Mixtures of different waxes can also be used.

Bestandteil c): Die Menge dieser gegebenenfalls vorhandenen Komponente beträgt im allgemeinen 0 bis 20 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0 bis 10 Gew.-%. Innerhalb der anspruchsgemäßen Alkylkettenlänge von R1 sind Alkylreste mit C12-C14, mit C16-C18 und mit C22 bevorzugt. Bei den Alkylkettenlängen von R2 und R3 kommen insbesondere Alkylreste mit C1, mit C2, mit C12-C14 und mit C16-C18 in Frage. Als Alkylkettenlängen bei R4 sind besonders Methyl und Äthyl bevorzugt. Als Beispiele für salzbildende Anionen A sind vor allem Chloride sowie Metho-und Äthosulfate zu nennen. Innerhalb der anspruchsgemäßen C12-C22-Alkylreste bei den Alkylimidazolinsalzen sind beispielsweise Alkylreste mit C12-C14, mit C 16-C 18 und mit C22 zu nennen.Constituent c): The amount of this component which may be present is generally 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight. Within the claimed alkyl chain length of R 1 , alkyl radicals with C 12 -C 14 , with C 16 -C 18 and with C 22 are preferred. The alkyl chain lengths of R 2 and R 3 are in particular alkyl radicals with C 1 , with C 2 , with C 12 -C 14 and with C 16 -C 18 . Methyl and ethyl are particularly preferred as alkyl chain lengths for R 4 . Examples of salt-forming anions A include, in particular, chlorides and methosulfates and ethosulfates. Within the claimed C 12 -C 22 alkyl radicals in the alkylimidazoline salts, alkyl radicals with C 12 -C 14 , with C 16 - C 18 and with C 22 can be mentioned, for example.

Bestandteil d): Seine Menge beträgt im allgemeinen 1 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 bis 6 Gew.-% .Component d): Its amount is generally 1 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight.

Als C12-C22-Fettsäure-Komponente (der Fettsäure-Kondensntionsprodukte) sind beispielsweise solche mit C12-C14, mit C16-C18 und mit C22 zu nennen, insbesondere Stearinsäure oder Behensäure. Als Alkanolamin ist beispielsweiseExamples of C 12 -C 22 fatty acid components (of the fatty acid condensation products) are those with C 12 -C 14 , with C 16 -C 18 and with C 22 , in particular stearic acid or behenic acid. As an alkanolamine, for example

Triäthanolamin zu nennen, als Polyamin beispielsweise Dimethylaminopropylamin. Die Salze können mit anorganischen Säuren oder mit niederen organischen Carbonsäuren oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren gebildet sein. Bevorzugte Salze anorganischer Säuren sind Chloride, Sulfate, Formiate und Acetate.To name triethanolamine, for example dimethylaminopropylamine as polyamine. The salts can be formed with inorganic acids or with lower organic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids. Preferred salts of inorganic acids are chlorides, sulfates, formates and acetates.

Bestandteil e): Bei dieser gegebenenfalls vorhandenen Komponente sind als Beispiele für die Alkylreste bei R1 und R2 vor allem Methyl und Äthyl zu nennen. Bevorzugte Bedeutungen von n sind 0,1 und 2.Constituent e): In this component which may be present, examples of the alkyl radicals in R 1 and R 2 include, above all, methyl and ethyl. Preferred meanings of n are 0.1 and 2.

Bestandteil f): Seine Menge beträgt im allgemeinen 1 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 1 bis 5 Gew.-%. Die Kettenlänge der genannten Fettalkohol-, Fettsäure- oder Fettsäureester-Komponente beträgt beispielsweise C12-C14 oder C16-C18, Unter den Ethylenoxidanlagerungsprodukten sind solche mit 15 bis 25 Mol EO bevorzugt. Als Bestandteil f) besonders zu nennen sind Stearylalkohol x 50 EO und Isotridecylstearat x 2 E0.Component f): Its amount is generally 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 5% by weight. The chain length of the fatty alcohol, fatty acid or fatty acid ester component mentioned is, for example, C 12 -C 14 or C 16 -C 18. Among the ethylene oxide addition products, those having 15 to 25 mol of EO are preferred. Particular mention should be made of stearyl alcohol x 50 EO and isotridecyl stearate x 2 E0 as constituent f).

Bestandteil g): Die Menge dieser gegebenenfalls vorhandenen Komponente beträgt im allgemeinen 0 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0 bis 5 Gew.-%. Nur als Beispiel für die anspruchsgemäße Gruppe ist Rizinusöl x 8 EO zu nennen.Constituent g): The amount of this component which may be present is generally 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight. Castor oil x 8 EO should only be mentioned as an example for the demanding group.

Bestandteil h): Die Menge dieser gegebenenfalls vorhandenen Komponente beträgt im allgemeinen 0 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0 bis 5 Gew.-%. Innerhalb der Fettamine sind beispielsweise solche mit C12-C14- oder mit C 16-C18-Alkylresten zu nennen. Unter den genannten Ethylenoxidanlagerungsprodukten sind solche mit 2 bis 10 Mol EO bevorzugt. Nur als beispielsweise Vertreter der Komponente h) sind Oleylamin x 2 EO und Stearylamin x 5 EO zu nennen.Constituent h): The amount of this component which may be present is generally 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight. Within the fatty amines, examples include those with C 12 -C 14 or with C 16 -C 18 alkyl radicals. Among the ethylene oxide addition products mentioned are those with 2 to 10 moles EO preferred. Oleylamine x 2 EO and stearylamine x 5 EO are only examples of representatives of component h).

Die Bestandteile c), d) und e) erfüllen mehrere Funktionen, je nachdem, ob das Garn aus synthetischen, nativen oder aus Seelengarn besteht. Sie wirken in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln einerseits als Antielektrostatika, als Weichmachungsmittel und in einem Synergismus zu den Wachsen auch als Gleitmittel, andererseits besitzen sie eine stabilisierende Wirkung, wirken bei der Herstellung der Zubereitungen (Avivage-Mittel) als Coemulgatoren und fördern das gleichmäßige Ausziehverhalten der Mittel während des Färbeprozesses.The components c), d) and e) fulfill several functions, depending on whether the yarn consists of synthetic, native or soul yarn. In the agents according to the invention they act on the one hand as anti-electrostatics, as softening agents and in a synergism with the waxes also as lubricants, on the other hand they have a stabilizing effect, act as co-emulsifiers in the preparation of the preparations (finishing agents) and promote the uniform pull-out behavior of the agents during the dyeing process.

Die Bestandteile f), g) und h) wirken als Emulgatoren bei der Herstellung der Färbebad-Avivage-Mittel, fördern die antielektrostatische Wirksamkeit der beschriebenen Hilfsmittel und stabilisieren den Einsatz der Mittel in den einzelnen Färbeflotten.The constituents f), g) and h) act as emulsifiers in the preparation of the dyebath finishing agents, promote the anti-electrostatic activity of the auxiliaries described and stabilize the use of the agents in the individual dyeing liquors.

Die Avivage-Mittel lassen sich auf verschiedene Art herstellen. Sie werden bevorzugt in der Weise hergestellt, daß man die Bestandteile a) und b) getrennt emulgiert, wobei der Emulgator f) allein oder zusammen mit den Emulgatoren g) und/oder h) eingesetzt werden kann. Die Bestandteile c), d) und e) werden bevorzugt gemeinsam mit der Komponente b) emulgiert.The finishing agents can be manufactured in various ways. They are preferably prepared in such a way that components a) and b) are emulsified separately, the emulsifier f) being used alone or together with the emulsifiers g) and / or h). The components c), d) and e) are preferably emulsified together with component b).

Man kann die erhaltenen Dispersionen von a) und b) nach Fertigstellung miteinander vermischen oder die Emulsion der Komponente b) dazu benutzen, eine Voremulsion des Bestandteils a) fertig zu emulgieren. Bei den beschriebenen Mitteln stellt Wasser die äußere Phase dar, es handelt sich also um Öl-in-Wasser-Emulsionen (0/W-Emulsion). Die Emulsionen können entweder drucklos (Wasserin-Wachs-Verfahren oder Wachs-in-Wasser-Verfahren) oder im Niederdruck-Autoklaven hergestellt werden. Zur optimalen Stabilität in den Färbeflotten ist es vorteilhaft, die Mittel zu homogenisieren, z.B. indem man die Mischungen durch eine Kolloidmühle und/oder eine Hochdruck-Homogenisiermaschine pumpt.The resulting dispersions of a) and b) can be mixed with one another after completion, or the emulsion of component b) can be used to emulsify a pre-emulsion of component a). In the agents described, water is the outer phase, i.e. it is oil-in-water emulsions (0 / W emuls sion). The emulsions can either be produced without pressure (water-in-wax process or wax-in-water process) or in a low-pressure autoclave. For optimum stability in the dyeing liquors, it is advantageous to homogenize the agents, for example by pumping the mixtures through a colloid mill and / or a high-pressure homogenizing machine.

Das Avivage-Mittel kann im Färbebad in verschiedenen Mengen eingesetzt werden. Vorteilhaft beträgt die Menge des Avivage-Mittels 5 bis 25 Gew.-%, insbesondere 10 bis 20 Gew.-%, des Gewichts der zu färbenden Ware.The finishing agent can be used in different amounts in the dye bath. The amount of the finishing agent is advantageously 5 to 25% by weight, in particular 10 to 20% by weight, of the weight of the goods to be dyed.

Bezüglich der Details, die zum Färben von Nähgarn-Zwirnen aus synthetischen Garnen, nativen Garnen und aus Seelen-Garnen in der Praxis gebräuchlich sind, wird auf die einschlägige Fachliteratur und auf die Farbkarten der Farbherstella verwiesen. Die bei Nähgarn üblichen Farb- stoffklassen werden daher nur ummarisch erwähnt. Es sind dies: bei PES die üblichen Dispersionsfarbstoffe; bei PA 6,6 die üblichen Säurefarbstoffe, aber auch übliche 1 : 2 Metallkomplexfarbstoffe und bei hellen Farben gelegentlich auch übliche Dispersionsfarbstoffe; bei PES/Bw Mischungen aus üblichen Dispersions- und üblichen Reaktiv- bzw. üblichen Küpen-Farbstoffen; und bei Bw die Klasse der üblichen Reaktiv- und der üblichen KüpenFarbstoffe. Die Färbeflotte kann (außer den Farbstoffen) die üblichen Färbehilfsmittel enthalten, wie z.B. Dispergier-, Egalisier- und Stellmittel sowie Färbebeschleuniger.With regard to the details that are customary in practice for dyeing sewing thread twists from synthetic yarns, native yarns and from soul yarns, reference is made to the relevant specialist literature and to the color cards of the color manufacturer. The usual dye classes for sewing thread are therefore only mentioned ummarisch. These are: the usual disperse dyes at PES; for PA 6.6 the usual acid dyes, but also usual 1: 2 metal complex dyes and occasionally also usual dispersion dyes for light colors; in the case of PES / Bw mixtures of customary disperse and customary reactive or custom vat dyes; and at Bw the class of the usual reactive and vat dyes. The dyeing liquor can (apart from the dyes) contain the usual dyeing aids, e.g. Dispersing, leveling and adjusting agents as well as coloring accelerators.

Die Applikation der Avivagemitteldispersionen erfolgt in üblicher Weise in üblichen Färbeapparaten, wie sie zum Färben von Textilgarnen verwendet werden. Bevorzugt wird in Flottenverhältnissen von 1 4 bis 1 50, insbesondere 1 4 bis 1 :15 und bei Temperaturen von 40 bis 140°C, vorzugsweise 100 bis 140°C gearbeitet.The finishing agent dispersions are applied in the customary manner in customary dyeing apparatuses such as are used for dyeing textile yarns. Before is carried out in liquor ratios of 1 4 to 1 50, in particular 1 4 to 1:15 and at temperatures of 40 to 140 ° C, preferably 100 to 140 ° C.

Die Erfindung soll anhand der folgenden Beispiele näher erläutert werden, wobei ihre Anwendung jedoch in keiner Weise eingeschränkt werden soll.The invention will be explained in more detail with the aid of the following examples, but its application should not be restricted in any way.

Die Angabe (*) bei dem Dispersionsfarbstoff in Beispiel 1, Ziffer 2 und bei dem Dispersions-/Küpen-Farbstoff im Beispiel 2, Ziffer 2 bedeutet, daß sich die jeweils einzusetzende Farbstoffmenge nach der gewünschten Farbnuance richtet; die Einstellung dieser Farbstoffmenge ist dem Färbefachmann geläufig und kann jederzeit den Farbkarten der Farbhersteller entnommen werden.The indication ( * ) for the disperse dye in Example 1, number 2 and for the disperse / vat dye in Example 2, number 2 means that the amount of dye to be used depends on the desired shade; the dye specialist is familiar with the setting of this amount of dye and can be found at any time on the color cards of the color manufacturers.

Beispiel 1example 1 1. Zusammensetzung der Zubereitung (Avivage-Mittel)1. Composition of the preparation (finishing agent)

  • a) 35,0 Gew.-% Dimethylpolysiloxan (20 000 mPa.s)a) 35.0% by weight of dimethylpolysiloxane (20,000 mPa.s)
  • b) 8,0 Gew.-% Paraffinwachs, Fp. 58 bis 60°Cb) 8.0 wt .-% paraffin wax, mp. 58 to 60 ° C.
  • c) 3,0 Gew.-% eines 1:1-Kondensates aus Behensäure und Dimethylaminopropylamin, in Form des Chloridsc) 3.0% by weight of a 1: 1 condensate of behenic acid and dimethylaminopropylamine, in the form of the chloride
  • d) 1,5 Gew.-% Stearylalkohol x 50 EO (Ethylenoxid)d) 1.5% by weight of stearyl alcohol x 50 EO (ethylene oxide)
  • e) 1,5 Gew.-% Rizinusöl x 8 EOe) 1.5% by weight castor oil x 8 EO
  • f) 1,0 Gew.-% Oleylamin x 2 EO.f) 1.0% by weight oleylamine x 2 EO.
  • g) 50,0 Gew.-% demineralisiertes Wasserg) 50.0% by weight of demineralized water
2. Erfindungsgemäße Applikation der Zubereitung2. Application of the preparation according to the invention

PES-Nähzwirn aus Filamentgarn, Spinnfasergarn (baumwoll- oder schappe-gesponnen) oder Texturgarn wird zunächst in üblicher Weise nach z.B. folgender Rezeptur vorgereinigt:

  • 1 bis 2 g/l nichtionogenes Waschmittel
  • 0,5 bis 1 g/l calcinierte Soda
  • 20 min 50 bis 6C°C
  • 10 min 40°C spülen
  • 10 min 20°C spülen
PES sewing thread made of filament yarn, spun fiber yarn (cotton or bobbin spun) or textured yarn becomes next pre-cleaned in the usual way according to the following recipe, for example:
  • 1 to 2 g / l non-ionic detergent
  • 0.5 to 1 g / l calcined soda
  • 20 min 50 to 6C ° C
  • Rinse at 40 ° C for 10 min
  • Rinse at 20 ° C for 10 min

Dann wird die Färbe- und Avivageflotte einbadig wie folgt angesetzt:

  • x Dispersionsfarbstoff (*)
  • 1 bis 2 g/l anionaktives Egalisier- und Durchfärbemittel
  • 0,5 bis 1 g/l Färbebeschleuniger
  • 0,5 g/l anionaktives Dispergiermittel
  • 10 bis 15 % erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung
  • ph 4,5 bis 5,5 mit Essigsäure
Then the dyeing and finishing liquor is made up as a single bath as follows:
  • x disperse dye ( * )
  • 1 to 2 g / l anion-active leveling and coloring agent
  • 0.5 to 1 g / l dyeing accelerator
  • 0.5 g / l anionic dispersant
  • 10 to 15% preparation according to the invention
  • pH 4.5 to 5.5 with acetic acid

Bei Kreuzwickeln wird die Flotte vorzugsweise wechselseitig durch die Wickelkörper und/oder Spulen gepumpt, z.B. 4 Minuten von außen nach innen und 2 Minuten von innen nach außen.In the case of cross-winding, the liquor is preferably pumped alternately through the winding former and / or coils, e.g. 4 minutes from outside to inside and 2 minutes from inside to outside.

5 Minuten bei ca. 40°C behandeln, aufheizen mit 1,5 bis 2°/min auf 130 bis 135°C (HT-Bedingungen, d.h. Hochtemperaturbedingungen), 30 bis 60 Minuten bei 130 bis 135°C färben, HT-Ablaß oder abkühlen, zweimal 3 Minuten spülen bei 80°CTreat for 5 minutes at approx. 40 ° C, heat at 1.5 to 2 ° / min to 130 to 135 ° C (HT conditions, ie high temperature conditions), dye for 30 to 60 minutes at 130 to 135 ° C, HT drain or cool, rinse twice for 3 minutes at 80 ° C

Bei dunklen Farbtönen gegebenenfalls reduktiv reinigen mit

  • 1 bis 2 g/l nichtionogenes Egalisier- und Dispergiermittel
  • 3 bis 6 ml/l Natronlauge, 38°Be
  • 3 bis 6 g/l Hydrosulfit
If necessary, reductively clean with dark colors
  • 1 to 2 g / l non-ionic leveling and dispersing agent
  • 3 to 6 ml / l sodium hydroxide solution, 38 ° Be
  • 3 to 6 g / l hydrosulfite

20 Minuten 90°C, zweimal heiß spülen, zweimal warm spülen, eventuell neutralisieren auf pH 5,5.20 minutes at 90 ° C, rinse twice hot, rinse twice warm, if necessary neutralize to pH 5.5.

Die Färbeflotte ist einwandfrei stabil. Es kommt zu keinerlei Ausfällungen zwischen der schwach kationaktiven erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitung und den anionaktiven Dispergier-, Egalisier- und Stellmitteln. Die Farb- und Reibechtheiten entsprechen den im Nähgarnsektor üblichen hohen Ansprüchen. Der Nähzwirn ist fertig ausgerüstet, besitzt die geforderten Gleit- und Näheigenschaften und bedarf nach der Trocknung keinerlei weiterer Avivage vor der Umspulung in die Verkaufsaufmachung.The dye liquor is perfectly stable. There are no precipitates between the weakly cationic preparation according to the invention and the anionic dispersing, leveling and adjusting agents. The color and rub fastness correspond to the high demands usual in the sewing thread sector. The sewing thread is fully equipped, has the required sliding and sewing properties and, after drying, does not require any further finishing before winding into the sales presentation.

Beispiel 2Example 2 1. Zusammensetzung der Zubereitung (Avivage-Mittel)1. Composition of the preparation (finishing agent)

wie bei Beispiel 1.1as in example 1.1

2. Erfindungsgemäße Applikation der Zubereitung2. Application of the preparation according to the invention

PES/Bw-Nähgarnaus Seelengarn,bestehend aus einer PES-Filamentseele und einem Bw-Mantel, wird in üblicher Weise (z.B. nach Beispiel 1.2) gegebenenfalls unter Zusatz von 1 g/l eines anionaktiven Komplexbildners vorgereinigt und anschließend, wie im folgenden beschrieben, in einer Prozeßstufe gleichzeitig gefärbt und aviviert: dabei wird - nur als Beispiel - eine Mischung aus Dispersions-und Küpenfarbstoffen ausgewählt.PES / Bw sewing thread made of soul thread, consisting of a PES filament core and a Bw sheath, is pre-cleaned in the usual way (e.g. according to Example 1.2), optionally with the addition of 1 g / l of an anionic complexing agent and then, as described below, in dyed and finished at the same time in a process step: a mixture of disperse and vat dyes is selected here - only as an example.

Man läßt in üblicher Weise zunächst 0,5 bis 1 g/l eines anionaktiven Egalisier- und Durchfärbemittels bei pH 4,5 bis 5,5 (essigsauer) 5 Minuten bei ca. 40°C vorlaufen. Anschließend erfolgt Zugabe von x/y % Dispersions-/Küpen-Farbstoff (*) und 10 bis 15 % erfindungsgemäße ZubereitungIn a conventional manner, 0.5 to 1 g / l of an anionic leveling and coloring agent at pH 4.5 to 5.5 (acetic acid) is allowed to run for 5 minutes at about 40 ° C. Then add x / y% dispersion / vat dye ( * ) and 10 to 15% preparation according to the invention

Man stellt die Flottenzirkulation auf 4 Minuten außeninnen, 2 Minuten innen-außen (vgl. Beispiel 1.2), heizt mit 1,5 bis 2°/min auf 130 bis 135°C auf (HT-Bedingungen), färbt 30 bis 45 Minuten bei 130 bis 135°C, kühlt ab, verküpt und oxidiert anschließend wie für (die zum Einsatz kommenden) Küpenfarbstoffe vorgeschrieben.The liquor circulation is set to 4 minutes outside, 2 minutes inside-outside (see example 1.2), heated to 1.5 to 2 ° / min to 130 to 135 ° C (HT conditions), and colored for 30 to 45 minutes 130 to 135 ° C, cools, veils and then oxidizes as prescribed for vat dyes.

Die Färbeflotte ist einwandfrei stabil. Der Nähzwirn entspricht den üblichen Qualitätsansprüchen und bedarf keinerlei weiterer Avivage vor der Umspulung in die Verkaufsaufmachung.The dye liquor is perfectly stable. The sewing thread complies with the usual quality requirements and does not require any further finishing before winding into the sales presentation.

Beispiel 3Example 3 1. Zusammensetzung der Zubereitung (Avivage-Mittel)1. Composition of the preparation (finishing agent)

  • a) 35,0 Gew.-% Dimethylpolysiloxan (12 500 mPa.s)a) 35.0% by weight of dimethylpolysiloxane (12,500 mPa.s)
  • b) 5,0 Gew.-% Paraffinwachs, Fp. 54 bis 56°Cb) 5.0% by weight paraffin wax, mp. 54 to 56 ° C.
  • c) 1,5 Gew.-% Paraffinwachs, Fp. 44 bis 46°Cc) 1.5 wt .-% paraffin wax, mp 44 to 46 ° C.
  • d) 4,5 Gew.-% eines 2:1 Kondensates aus Stearinsäure und Triäthanolamin, in Form des Sulfatesd) 4.5% by weight of a 2: 1 condensate of stearic acid and triethanolamine, in the form of the sulfate
  • e) 2,5 Gew.-% Isotridecylstearat x 2 EOe) 2.5% by weight isotridecyl stearate x 2 EO
  • f) 1,5 Gew.-% Stearylamin x 5 EOf) 1.5% by weight stearylamine x 5 EO
  • g) 50,0 Gew.-% demineralisiertes Wasserg) 50.0% by weight of demineralized water
2. Erfindungsgemäße Applikation der Zubereitung2. Application of the preparation according to the invention

Die Zubereitung wird wiederum wie bei Beispiel 1 und 2 beschrieben als Avivage-Mittel im Färbebad von Nähgarn aus synthetischen Garnen, nativen Garnen und aus Seelen-Garnen eingesetzt und ermöglicht ein gleichzeitiges Färben und Avivieren in einer Prozeßstufe.The preparation is again used as a finishing agent in the dyebath of sewing thread made of synthetic yarns, native yarns and core yarns, as described in Examples 1 and 2, and enables simultaneous dyeing and finishing in one process step.

Claims (1)

Verfahren zur Ausrüstung (Avivage) von Nähgarn aus synthetischen Garnen, nativen Garnen oder aus Seelen-Garnen mittels eines Avivagemittels auf Basis polymerer Organosiliciumverbindungen, dadurch gekenn- zeichnet, daß das Avivagemittel im Färbebad eingesetzt wird und man ein gleichzeitiges Färben und Avivieren in einer Prozeßstufe durchführt, wobei das Avivagemittel folgende Bestandteile, in Wasser dispergiert oder gelöst, enthält: a) 1 bis 80 Gew.-% Siliconöl einer Viskosität von 500 bis 100 000 mPa.s bei 25°C; b) 1 bis 50 Gew.-% Pflanzenwachs, tierisches Wachs, Montanwachs, Wachs aus Erdöl (insbesondere Paraffinwachs) und/oder Polyolefin-Wachs, wobei diese Wachse einen Schmelzpunkt von jeweils 35°C haben; c) 0 bis 20 Gew.-% einer quartären Ammonium-Verbindung der Formel
Figure imgb0004
 R1= Alkyl C 12-C 22 R2 = Alkyl C1-C22 R3 = Alkyl C1-C22 R4 = Alkyl C1-C4 A = salzbildendes Anion
und/oder einer diquartären Ammonium-Verbindung der Formel
Figure imgb0005
worin R1, R2, R3, R4 und A wie oben definiert sind,und x 2 oder 3 bedeutet, und/oder eines Alkylimidazolinsalzes mit Alkylresten von 12 bis 22 C-Atomen; d) 1 bis 10 Gew.-% eines Fettsäure-Kondensationsproduktes, aufgebaut aus C12-C22-Fettsäuren und Alkanolaminen bzw. Polyaminen, in Form eines Salzes; e) 0 bis 5 Gew.-% Aminoxid der Formel
Figure imgb0006
wobei R C8-12-Alkyl oder C8-C12-Alkenyl, R1 C1-4-Alkyl, R2 H oder C1-4-Alkyl und n Zahlen von 0 bis 6 bedeuten; f) 1 bis 10 Gew.-% nichtionogene Emulgatoren, Basis C12-C22-Fettalkohol oder -Fettsäure oder Isotridecylfettsäureester, mit jeweils 2 bis 50 Mol angelagertem Ethylenoxid; g) 0 bis 10 Gew.-% nichtionogene Emulgatoren auf Basis ethoxilierter Triglyzeride; h) 0 bis 10 Gew.-% kationaktive Emulgatoren, Basis C12-C22-Fettamin mit 2 bis 30 Mol angelagertem Ethylenoxid. Process for finishing (sewing) sewing thread from synthetic yarns, native yarns or from soul yarns by means of a finishing agent based on polymeric organosilicon compounds, characterized in that the finishing agent is used in the dye bath and simultaneous dyeing and finishing are carried out in one process step , wherein the finishing agent contains the following constituents, dispersed or dissolved in water: a) 1 to 80 wt .-% silicone oil with a viscosity of 500 to 100,000 mPa.s at 25 ° C; b) 1 to 50% by weight of vegetable wax, animal wax, montan wax, wax from petroleum (in particular paraffin wax) and / or polyolefin wax, these waxes each having a melting point of 35 ° C .; c) 0 to 20 wt .-% of a quaternary ammonium compound of the formula
Figure imgb0004
 R 1 = alkyl C 12 -C 22 R2 = alkyl C 1 -C 22 R 3 = alkyl C 1 -C 22 R 4 = alkyl C 1 -C 4 A = salt-forming anion
and / or a diquartary ammonium compound of the formula
Figure imgb0005
 wherein R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and A are as defined above and x is 2 or 3, and / or an alkylimidazoline salt with alkyl radicals of 12 to 22 carbon atoms; d) 1 to 10% by weight of a fatty acid condensation product, built up from C 12 -C 22 fatty acids and alkanolamines or polyamines, in the form of a salt; e) 0 to 5 wt .-% amine oxide of the formula
Figure imgb0006
 wherein RC 8-12 alkyl or C 8 -C 12 alkenyl, R 1 C 1-4 alkyl, R 2 H or C 1-4 alkyl and n are numbers from 0 to 6; f) 1 to 10% by weight of nonionic emulsifiers, based on C 12 -C 22 fatty alcohol or fatty acid or isotridecyl fatty acid ester, each with 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide added; g) 0 to 10% by weight of nonionic emulsifiers based on ethoxylated triglycerides; h) 0 to 10% by weight of cationic emulsifiers, based on C 12 -C 22 fatty amine with 2 to 30 moles of added ethylene oxide.
EP86100042A 1985-01-04 1986-01-03 Method for dyeing and lubricating sewing threads in a single bath Expired - Lifetime EP0187136B1 (en)

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DE19853500168 DE3500168A1 (en) 1985-01-04 1985-01-04 METHOD FOR THE ONE-BATH DYING AND AVIVATING OF SEWING YARN AND MEANS OF ITS IMPLEMENTATION

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WO2004063456A1 (en) 2003-01-14 2004-07-29 Cht R. Beitlich Gmbh Ph-value-independent reviving of sewing thread during an exhaust method

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DE3500168A1 (en) 1986-07-17
EP0187136A3 (en) 1988-07-06

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