CN1454071A - Water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition - Google Patents

Water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition Download PDF

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CN1454071A
CN1454071A CN00819650.8A CN00819650A CN1454071A CN 1454071 A CN1454071 A CN 1454071A CN 00819650 A CN00819650 A CN 00819650A CN 1454071 A CN1454071 A CN 1454071A
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water
composition
oil
glycerol
oil emulsified
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CN1217640C (en
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谷田簏谷
田中光长
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Procter and Gamble Ltd
Procter and Gamble Co
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)
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Abstract

Disclosed is a water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition comprising by weight; from about 25% to about 40% of a volatile silicone oil; from about 0.5% to about 8% of a non-volatile oil; from about 1% to about 5% of a solid wax; from about 1% to about 5% of a lipophilic surfactant having an HLB of less than about 8; from about 25% to about 35% of hydrophobically treated pigments; and water in an amount such that the total of the volatile silicone oil and water is at least about 50%.

Description

Water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition
Field that the present invention belongs to
The present invention relates to have the cosmetic composition of invert emulsion phase.Particularly, the present invention relates to contain cosmetic composition specified level and that have the composition of solid-state and liquid foundation cream advantage simultaneously.The invention still further relates to the cosmetic composition that comprises optional water-soluble skin reagent treatment such as nicotiamide.
Background of invention
Foundation compositions can be used for face and other position of health, and level and smooth skin color and quality are covered hole defect and microgroove etc.Foundation compositions also can make skin moisture-keeping, balance skin oil and fat level, and protection skin is avoided the adverse effect of sunlight, wind and other environmental factors.
Foundation compositions is the compositions of suspended substance, Emulsion, gel, compacting powder or the anhydrous oil and the wax of liquid or cream forms normally.The oil-in-water type foundation cream of liquid form is fit to, and they can provide heat insulation effect by mixing water and water solublity skin treatment reagent.Yet the inconvenient consumer of the foundation cream of these liquid forms carries and uses.On the other hand, solid-state foundation cream can be packed closely, makes things convenient for consumer to use, but they are obviously effective not as the foundation cream of liquid form aspect skin insulation and covering.
Solid-state but still be that the foundation compositions of water in oil emulsion form is to recommend to use.The solid-state foundation cream of this Emulsion can be packed in the multiple packing, comprises compression type packing, and very popular in the consumer group of Asia.The document that discloses such foundation compositions has JPA2-88511,3-261707, and USP5362482.Though the solid-state foundation cream of Emulsion has to a certain degree overcome the shortcoming of liquid form foundation cream and solid-state form foundation cream, need to do further to improve.For example, increase the level of water and required skin moisture-keeping composition as everyone knows, the pure and fresh and portable impression meeting of skin is destroyed.Again for example, increased the composition that can make skin smooth and produce good stretchability, made the outward appearance of skin form powdery again.Furtherly, when obtaining ideal improvement, the foundation cream product must keep stable at typical foundation cream lay up period, and can produce on suitable cost.
As previously mentioned, be necessary to obtain a kind of solid-state cosmetic composition that is at ambient temperature, said composition can provide the good moisture preserving characteristic for skin, the advantages of good skin stretchability, and give skin pure and fresh portable impression.
Summary of the invention
Water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition disclosed by the invention comprises by weight:
(a) volatile silicone oils of about 25%-about 40%;
(b) nonvolatile oil of about 0.5%-about 8%;
(c) solid state wax of about 1%-about 5%;
(d) the HLB value of about 1%-about 5% is lower than 8 lipophilic surfactant;
(e) the color material of the hydrophobic treatment of about 25%-about 35%; And
(f) water, its content make the total amount of volatile silicone oils and water at least about 50%.
The cosmetic composition of Zu Chenging is satisfied like this is solid at normal temperatures, and the advantages of good skin heat preservation property can be provided, and also possesses the advantages of good skin stretchability, and can give skin pure and fresh portable impression.
These characteristics of the present invention, outward appearance and advantage for those those of ordinary skills, after having read the present invention disclosed fact and claim, will be clearly.
Detailed Description Of The Invention
Following example has gone out the definition of used term in the present invention.
" comprise " and do not mean and can be added into other step and other composition that the result exerts an influence.This term comprised " by ... form " reach the situation of " substantially by ... composition ".
Unless stated otherwise, all percentage ratios are the percentage by weight of composition total weight.
Here the document of being quoted all is to quote it in full.Any document of quoting is not as the judgement of the availability of prior art of the present invention.
Unless stated otherwise, all ratios are weight ratio.
It below is the detailed description of product of the present invention and method. Volatile silicone oils
Compositions of the present invention comprises volatile silicone oils, and it is about 40% that it accounts for about 25%-of composition total weight, is preferably 30%-about 40%.The amount of control volatile silicone oils is so that the total amount of volatile silicone oils and water surpasses about 50% of composition weight.Bound by theory not, the kind of volatile silicone oils and level be sure of to improve the pure and fresh portable impression of skin here, and can not make xerosis cutis.
Here employed volatile silicone oils is selected from those boiling points at about 60-about 260 ℃, preferably has the material of 2-7 silicon atom.
Here employed volatile silicone oils comprises the poly-alkyl or the poly-aryl siloxanes of following structure (I):
R wherein 93Independent is alkyl or aryl, and p is the integer of about 0-5.Z 8Represent the end-capping group of siloxane chain.Preferably, R 93Comprise methyl, ethyl, propyl group, phenyl, aminomethyl phenyl and benzyl, Z 8Comprise hydroxyl, methyl, methoxyl group, ethyoxyl, propoxyl group and aryloxy group.More preferably, R 93And Z 8Be methyl.The preferred volatile silicone compounds is hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, ten hexamethyl, seven siloxanes.Commercial volatile siloxane chemical compound comprises the octamethyltrisiloxane of commodity SH200C-1cs by name, the decamethyl tetrasiloxane of commodity SH200C-1.5cs by name, ten hexamethyl, seven siloxanes of commodity SH200C-2cs by name, these products are all from Dow Corning.
Volatile silicone oils used herein can also comprise the cyclic polysiloxanes chemical compound, as shown in the formula:
Figure A0081965000071
Wherein, R 93Independent is alkyl or aryl, and n is the integer of 3-7.
Preferably, R 93Comprise methyl, ethyl, propyl group, phenyl, aminomethyl phenyl and benzyl.More preferably, R 93Be methyl.The preferred volatile silicone compounds is octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, ten tetramethyl-rings, six siloxanes.Commercial volatile siloxane chemical compound comprises the octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane of commodity SH244 by name, the decamethylcyclopentaandoxane that commodity are called DC245 and SH245, ten tetramethyl-rings, six siloxanes of commodity DC246 by name.These products are all from Dow Corning.
Nonvolatile oil
Compositions of the present invention comprises nonvolatile oil, and it is about 8% that its weight accounts for about 0.5%-of total composition, is preferably 2%-about 5%.The amount of control nonvolatile oil makes 1) nonvolatile oil, solid state wax and lipophilic surfactant's total amount and 2) ratio of amount of colorant of hydrophobic treatment is about 1: about 1: 1.5 of 7-is preferably about 1: about 1: 2 of 5-, more preferably about 1: about 1: 2.5 of 5-.Bound by theory not, the kind of the nonvolatile oil here and level be sure of to improve the slickness of skin, can also weaken the powdery appearance that occurs usually when the colorant level is higher.
The example of used here nonvolatile oil has, the different pelargonate of tridecyl, isostearic acid base isostearate, the isocetyl isostearate, Witconol 2310, the different pelargonate of isodecyl, the cetyl caprylate, the different pelargonate of different nonyl, the diisopropyl myristate, the isocetyl myristate, the isotridecyl myristate, the isopropyl myristate, iso stearyl hexadecane acid esters, isocetyl hexadecane acid esters, isodecyl hexadecane acid esters, isopropyl hexadecane acid esters, octyl group hexadecane acid esters, the caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl three-2-ethylhexanoate, dimethyltrimethylene glycol two (2-ethylhexanoate), diisopropyl dimeric dibasic acid ester (dimerate), tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, American Avocado Tree oil, Camellia oil, turtle oil, macadimia nut oil, Semen Maydis oil, mink oil, olive oil, Oleum Brassicae campestris, elgen, Oleum sesami, almond oil, wheat germ oil, pasanqua oil, Oleum Ricini, Semen Lini oil, safflower oil, Oleum Gossypii semen, perilla oil, soybean oil, Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, Oleum Camelliae, Semen Torreyae oil, rice chaff oil, China's Paulownia oil, Japan's Paulownia oil, simmondsia oil, Fructus Oryzae Germinatus oil, tricaprylin, glycerol three 2-Methylpentadecane acid esters, trimethylolpropane base three isostearates, the isopropyl myristate, glycerol three-2-ethylhexanoate, tetramethylolmethane four-2-ethylhexanoate, lanoline, liquid lanolin, liquid paraffin, squalane, vaseline, and their mixture.Commercial oil product comprises as from the commodity of Croda Crodamol TN by name, from the different pelargonate of three decyls of the commodity Hexalan by name of Nisshin Seiyu and from the tocopherol acetate of Eisai.Here the nonvolatile oil of usefulness also comprises poly-alkyl or the poly-aryl siloxanes as structural formula (I):
Figure A0081965000081
Wherein, R 93Be alkyl or aryl, p is the integer of about 7-about 8000.Z 8Represent the end-capping group of siloxane chain.Alkyl or aryl (R at the siloxanes chain substitution 93), or siloxane chain end-capping group Z 8Can be any structure, at room temperature be liquid so long as make siloxanes, and dispersible, both nonirritant, toxicity had not had other form to the skin harmfulness yet, and can coexist with other composition, were keeping chemically stable under normal use and condition of storage.The Z that is fit to 8Group comprises hydroxyl, methyl, methoxyl group, ethyoxyl, propoxyl group, and aryloxy group.Two R on silicon atom 93Group can be identical, also can be different.Preferably, these two R 93Group is identical.The R that is fit to 93Group comprises methyl, ethyl, propyl group, phenyl, aminomethyl phenyl, and benzyl.Preferred silicone compounds is polydimethylsiloxane, poly-di-ethyl siloxane, and PSI.Polydimethylsiloxane is also referred to as dimethicone, for particularly preferred.Operable poly-alkylsiloxane comprises, for example, and polydimethylsiloxane.These silicone compounds are available, as derive from the Viscasil of General Electric Co. Limited With SF 96 series, Dow Corning 200 series of Dow Corning company.
Polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane liquid can use equally, and these comprise, as PSI.These siloxanes are available, as derive from the SF 1075 aminomethyl phenyl fluids of General Electric Co. Limited, or 556 cosmetics-stage fluids of Dow Corning company.
Nonvolatile oil used herein also can be the mineral oil of different stage.Mineral oil is liquid hydro carbons mixture, can obtain from oil.The example of the hydrocarbons that is fit to comprises paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, Fancol ID, hexadecane, 2-Methylpentadecane, icosane, different icosane, tridecane, the tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutylene, and their mixture.
Nonvolatile oil used herein is especially selected those of relatively low viscosity.Pure and fresh and portable impression when low viscous nonvolatile oil like this be sure of that can improve compositions is used for skin.
Solid state wax
Compositions of the present invention includes solid state wax, and it is about 5% that it accounts for about 1%-of total composition weight, is preferably 2%-about 4%.The amount of control solid state wax makes 1) nonvolatile oil, solid state wax and lipophilic surfactant's total amount, and 2) ratio between the colorant of hydrophobic treatment is about 1: about 1: 1.5 of 7-is preferably about 1: about 1: 2 of 5-, more preferably about 1: about 1: 2.5 of 5-.Bound by theory not, the kind of the solid state wax here and level be sure of to make compositions that suitable denseness is arranged, and to the level of coverage of skin, and do not have disadvantageous to skin stretchability and the influence of the pure and fresh light impression of skin.
Here used solid state wax has paraffin, microwax, ceresine, ceresin, Brazil wax, candelilla wax, eicosanol docosane acid esters and their mixture.Here preferred the use mixes wax.
The solid state wax that is purchased comprises: derive from the candelilla wax NC-1630 of Noda wax, derive from Strahl ﹠amp; The ceresine SP-1021 of Pitsh and derive from the eicosanol docosane acid esters of Cas Chemical.
The lipophilic surfactant
Compositions of the present invention comprises the lipophilic surfactant, and it is about 5% that its weight accounts for about 1%-of total composition, and preferably 1%-about 3%.Surfactant has the HLB value less than 8.
The HLB value is the theoretic index that is used for describing the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of designated substance.Usually, the scope of HLB value is that 0 (very lipophilic) is to 40 (very hydrophilic).Lipophilic surfactant's HLB value can be searched from the known chart of prior art, or gets by conventional formula: HLB=7+ (value of lipophilic group)+(value of hydrophilic group) calculating.The computational methods of related substance HLB value and HLB value see " Surfactant ScienceSeries, Vol.1:Nonionic Surfactants " for details, pp606-13, M.J.Schick (Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, 1966).
Control lipophilic surfactant's amount is so that 1) nonvolatile oil, solid state wax and lipophilic surfactant's total amount, and 2) ratio between the colorant of hydrophobic treatment is about 1: about 1: 1.5 of 7-, be preferably about 1: about 1: 2 of 5-, more preferably about 1: about 1: 2.5 of 5-.Bound by theory not, the lipophilic surfactant's here kind and level be sure of to make the water in oil emulsion that comprises other composition of the present invention stable.
The lipophilic surfactant can be the surfactant of ester-formin.Here the surfactant of the ester-formin of Cai Yonging comprises: anhydro sorbitol list isostearate, the anhydro sorbitol diisopstearate, anhydro sorbitol sesquialter isostearate, Arlacel-80, the anhydro sorbitol dioleate, Arlacel-83, glycerol list isostearate, the glycerol diisopstearate, glycerol sesquialter isostearate, glycerin mono-fatty acid ester, diolein, the glycerol sesquioleate, two glycerol, two different fat hard acid esters, two dioleins, two glycerol list iso stearyl ethers, two glycerol, two iso stearyl ethers, and their mixture.
The surfactant of the ester-formin that is purchased has, as derives from the anhydro sorbitol isostearate of the commodity Crill6 by name of Croda, derives from the Arlacel-83 of the commodity Arlacel83 by name of Kao Atras.
The lipophilic surfactant can be the silicone-type surfactant.The silicone-type surfactant is as shown in the formula (i), (ii), and their mixture.
(i) dimethicone polyol structure is as follows:
Figure A0081965000111
Wherein x is the integer of 5-100, and y is the integer of 1-50, and a is 0 or bigger, and b is 0 or bigger, and the a+b meansigma methods is 1-100.
(ii) dimethicone polyol structure is as follows:
Figure A0081965000121
Wherein R is selected from hydrogen, methyl or its mixing, and m is the integer of 5-100, and x independently is 0 or bigger, and y independently is 0 or bigger, and x+y is 1-100.
The silicone-type surfactant that is purchased has, as DC5225C, and BY22-012, BY22-008, SH3746M, SH3771M, SH3772M, SH3773M, SH3775M, SH3748, SH3749, and DC5200 all derive from Dow Corning.
In the embodiment preferred, the lipophilic surfactant is the surfactant of at least a ester-formin and the mixture of at least a silicone-type surfactant, and this mixture makes the Emulsion that contains other neccessary composition of the present invention stable.
The colorant of hydrophobic treatment
Compositions of the present invention comprises the colorant through hydrophobic treatment, and it is about 35% that it accounts for about 25%-of composition total weight, is preferably about 25%-about 30%.The amount of control hydrophobic treatment colorant is so that 1) nonvolatile oil, solid state wax and lipophilic surfactant's total amount, and 2) ratio between the colorant of hydrophobic treatment is about 1: about 1: 1.5 of 7-, be preferably about 1: about 1: 2 of 5-, more preferably about 1: about 1: 2.5 of 5-.Bound by theory not, here kind and level through the colorant of hydrophobic treatment are be sure of to bring good serviceability, and because of stablizing in the successive oil phase that is stabilized in compositions.
The characteristic of desirable product is depended in the selection of the colorant of hydrophobic treatment, as the color and luster depth, coverage, anti-ultraviolet characteristic, and different skin feels.
The basic material of used hydrophobic treatment colorant is the clay pit powder, as Talcum, Muscovitum, sericite, silicon dioxide, magnesium silicate, synthetic fluorophologopite, calcium silicates, aluminium silicate, Bentonite and Montmorillonitum; The pearly-lustre colorant is as the Muscovitum of the titanium dioxide of aluminium oxide, barium sulfate, hypophosphorous acid (secondaryphosphate) calcium, calcium carbonate, titanium dioxide, highly segmentation, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, hydroxyapatite, ferrum oxide, iron titanate, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, chromic oxide gel, cobalt oxide, cobalt titanate, coating titanium dioxide; Organic dust is as polyester, polyethylene, polystyrene, methyl methacrylate (methyl metharylate) resin, cellulose, 12-nylon, 6-nylon, styrene-propene acid copolymer, polypropylene, polrvinyl chloride, tetrafluoro ethylene polymer, boron nitride, fish scale guanine (fish Scale guanine), tar lake colours (laked tar color dyes) and natural mordant pigment (lakednatural color dyes).Basic substance hydrophobic treatment agent treated like this, these reagent comprise: siloxanes such as methyl polysiloxane, dimethicone and perfluoroalkyl silane; Fatty material such as stearic acid; Metallic soap is as two aluminium myristates; Hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid aluminum, hydrolecithin, lauroyl lysine, perfluoroalkyl phosphalugel, and their mixture.
The spherical colorant of particular percentile can be used for the present invention.In a preferred embodiment, the colorant of hydrophobic treatment can be selected according to the oily absorbability of colorant.In a further advantageous embodiment, have the colorant of high oil absorbability and the colorant of low oily absorbability and unite use. Water
Compositions of the present invention includes water, and the content of water is to make the total amount of volatile silicone oils and water surpass the about 50% of composition total weight, is preferably about 15%-about 25%.
Bound by theory not, the kind of this interior edema and level be sure of to improve the pure and fresh and portable impression of skin, and can not bring exsiccant impression to skin.Furtherly, the water of certain content allows to add the water solublity skin treatment reagent as nicotiamide.
In the present invention, deionized water is normally used.According to the product attribute of wanting required for the present invention, the natural water that contains inorganic cation can be suitable for too.
Skin treatment reagent
Compositions of the present invention can further contain skin treatment reagent, and it is about 10% that its weight accounts for about 0.1%-of compositions gross weight, is preferably about 1%-about 5%.
Here the skin treatment reagent of Cai Yonging has nicotiamide, pantothenylol and their mixture.Nicotiamide is particularly preferred, because when using medicinal effective dose, it can alleviate or relax the intensity of intractable speckle.Nicotiamide is suitable at first being dissolved in water, and then is incorporated in the compositions and uses.Nicotiamide and pantothenylol all can commercially availablely obtain, as obtaining from Roche.
Wetting agent
Compositions of the present invention can further contain wetting agent, and it is about 15% that its weight accounts for about 1%-of compositions gross weight, is preferably 2%-about 7%.
Wetting agent can be selected from polyhydric alcohol, water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and their mixture.
Polyhydric alcohol comprises glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, hyaluronate sodium, and their mixture.
The wetting agent that is purchased comprises: the glycerol that derives from Asahi Denka company; Derive from the commodity LEXOL PG-865/855 by name of Inolex company, it is by name 1 to derive from the commodity of BASF AG, the propylene glycol of 2-PROPYLENE GLYCOL USP; Derive from the 1,3 butylene glycol of Daisel Kagaku Kogyo; Derive from the dipropylene glycol that the identical goods name is arranged of BASF; Derive from the diglycerol of the commodity DIGLYCEROL by name of SolvayGmbH; Derive from the commodity ACTIMOIST by name of Active Organics, derive from the commodity AVIAN SODIUMHYALURONATE series by name of Intergen, derive from the hyaluronate sodium of the commodity HYALURONICACID Na by name of Ichimaru Pharcos.
Other component
Compositions of the present invention can be according to the performance of final new product, and makes product have more aesthetic feeling, or gives the other application advantage of product and comprise other annexing ingredient.The general independent use of these annexing ingredients can not surpass 5% of total composition.
Compositions of the present invention can further comprise the dispersible non-volatile siloxane that is called silicone gum usually.The term here " silicone gum " refers to polymeric organosiloxane material, in the time of 25 ℃ its viscosity more than or equal to 1,000, oo0mPas." silicone gum " be sure of to improve the operating characteristic such as lasting effect." silicone gum " has and surpasses about 200,000 molecular weight, and usually about 200,000-is about 1,000, between 000.Special example comprises polydimethylsiloxane, poly-(dimethyl siloxane ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer, poly-(dimethyl siloxane diphenyl siloxane ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer and their mixture.The silicone gum that is purchased is described as SE30, SE33, SE54 and SE76 in the silicone rubber product data of General Electric Co. Limited are single.
Compositions of the present invention can further comprise the silicones with highly cross-linked polymer siloxane system.Silicones be sure of to improve the stretchability of product, and improves the impression of skin.In the preparation process of silicones, crosslinked is the formation that combine of silane and single or two functional groups or both silane by three and four functional groups.According to general knowledge, the crosslinked degree that needs in order to obtain silicones changes according to the specific silane unit of introducing in the silicones.Therefore usually, the siloxanyl monomers that has competent three and four functional groups is unitary, and has the silicone compositions of enough crosslinked and dry formation rigidity or hard film to be considered to silicones.The ratio of oxygen atom and silicon atom can show the crosslinked level of particular silicone material.Having at least about each silicon atom has the silicone compositions of 1.1 oxygen atoms to be considered to the silicones here usually.Preferably the ratio of oxygen atom and silicon atom was at least about 1.2: 1.0.The silane of preparation silicones comprise monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, single phenyl-, diphenyl-, aminomethyl phenyl-, mono-vinyl-and methyl ethylene chlorosilane, and tetrachloro silicane, wherein methyl substituted silane are the most normal use.Crosslinking silicone powder preferably, commodity are called Trefil E-505C, Trefil E-506C and 9506 powder; Silicone elastomer powder suspension body, commodity BY29-119 by name and BY29-122; And silicone compounds Emulsion, commodity are called SH5500, SC5570, and SM5571; All from Dow Corning company.
Other available silicones is a silicone powders, and as CTFA called after poly methyl silsesquioxane, its commodity are called Tospearl TM, derive from Toshiba Silicones company.
Silicone compositions, particularly silicone resin concerning this field those of ordinary skill, can be confirmed it with " MDTQ " nomenclature according to quick nomenclature easily.In this system, polysiloxanes is to describe according to the different siloxane unit of the formation polysiloxanes that exists.Briefly, M represents single functional unit (CH 3) 3SiO 0.5D represents difunctional unit (CH 3) 2SiO; T represents three functional unit (CH 3) SiO 1.5Q represents four functional unit SiO 2The apostrophe of unit symbol, as M ', D ', T ' and the substituent of Q ' expression except that methyl, and must when it occurs at every turn, all define.Typical candidate's substituent group comprises vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl or the like.When under the MDTQ system, describing silicone materials, the mol ratio of different units both can be the sum according to the represented polysiloxanes different units of symbol subscript, also can be its average, or specific that show and the bonded ratio of molecular weight, finished description to this silicone compositions.In the silicone resin with respect to D, D ', M and/or M ' unit, the T of higher relative molal quantity, Q, T ' and/or Q ' expression higher level crosslinked.Yet as previously mentioned, total crosslinked level can also be represented by the ratio of oxygen atom and silicon atom.
The silicone resin here is preferably MQ, MT, MTQ, MQ and MDTQ resin.Therefore, preferred polysiloxanes substituent group is a methyl.The especially preferred M of being: Q is about 0.5: 1.0-1.5: 1.0, and mean molecule quantity is the MQ resin of about 1000-10000.The MQ resin that is purchased has, as the trimethylsiloxy esters of silicon acis that derives from Dow Corning company of commodity BY11-018 by name.
Compositions of the present invention can further comprise water-soluble polymer.Be sure of that water-soluble polymer can provide lasting effect.Available water-soluble polymer comprises sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, xanthan gum, agar, pulleran, Bentonite, and mixture.The water-soluble polymer that is purchased comprises the Carbopol series of products of B.F.Goodrich company, the PVP K-30 of G.A.F.Chemicals company.
Other component that the present invention can add compositions has: antiseptic such as benzyl alcohol, methyl parahydroxybenzoate, to methyl hydroxybenzoate propyl ester, imidazolidinyl urea and EDTA and salt thereof, spice is covered or is absorbed ultraviolet and infrared ray reagent and other.
Compositions
Compositions of the present invention can be by the conventional method preparation of this area.In a suitable preparation process, compositions is to prepare according to following steps:
1) heating for dissolving volatile silicone oils, nonvolatile oil, solid state wax, lipophilic surfactant and the about 80-85 of other fusing point ℃ high-melting-point lyophobic dust in hermetically sealed can is with preparation lipotropy mixture;
2) in above-mentioned lipotropy mixture, add the hydrophobic treatment colorant, under about 75-80 ℃, be uniformly dispersed with homogenizer;
3) individually, heating for dissolving skin treatment reagent, wetting agent in water, and other hydrophilic material that may exist is to about 75-80 ℃;
4) with step 2), 3) product mix to form Emulsion; With
5) cooling gained Emulsion is to 60-80 ℃.
Resulting composition is a liquid still under said temperature, adds in the gas-tight container to be chilled to room temperature with conventional chiller.Resulting composition can solidify at ambient temperature, therefore can be injected in such container and obtain solid product.Gas-tight container is typically close packing.
The preferred fusing point of resulting composition is measured with the method for " the conventional fusing point measuring method 2 " of regulation in conventional " Nippon Standard cosmetic composition " less than about 50 ℃.Bound by theory can be sure not of that the lower preferred composition of relative fusing point of the present invention can improve the stretchability of skin, and improve the pure and fresh light impression of skin.In a further advantageous embodiment, the DSC thermal analysis curue of compositions of the present invention shows the relation of less enthalpy and compositions fusion.Bound by theory not, it is less to be sure of that this little enthalpy can make product be applied to the required energy of skin, also can be so that the skin stretchability of product and the pure and fresh portable improvement of experiencing.
Embodiment
Following examples further describe and confirm the preferred implementation in the scope of the invention.These embodiment only are in order to confirm the present invention, to need only various variations and be possible and do not deviate from purport of the present invention and scope, then the present invention not being construed as limiting.
Embodiment 1-5
Following cosmetic composition is by process preparation as described herein:
Numbering Component Embodiment 1 Embodiment 2 Embodiment 3 Embodiment 4 Embodiment 5
?1 SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330 * 1 ?35.9 ?30.95 ?32.95 ?33.3 ?32.8
?2 The different pelargonate * 2 of tridecyl ?2.0 ?2.0 ?2.0 ?2.0 ?2.0
?3 Tocopherol acetate * 3 ?0.5 ?0.5 ?0.5 ?0.5
?4 Candelilla wax * 4 ?0.4 ?0.4 ?0.4 ?0.3
?5 Ceresine * 5 ?2.2 ?2.8 ?2.8 ?2.8 ?2.0
?6 EICOSANOL docosane acid esters * 6 ?0.4 ?0.4 ?0.4 ?2.5
?7 Anhydro sorbitol isostearate * 7 ?2.0 ?2.0 ?2.0 ?1.0 ?1.0
?8 Dimethicone polyol * 8 ?0.5 ?1.2 ?1.2 ?1.2 ?1.2
?9 Cross linking polysiloxane powder * 9 ?2.0
?10 Trimethylsiloxy esters of silicon acis * 10 ?1.0
?11 Hydrophobic treatment colorant * 11 ?28.75 ?30.00 ?28.00 ?30.00 ?25.00
?12 Deionized water ?20 ?22 ?20 ?20 ?22
?13 Nicotiamide * 12 ?2.0 ?2.0 ?2.0 ?2.0 ?5.0
?14 Pantothenylol * 13 ?0.25 ?0.25 ?0.25 ?0.5
?15 Antiseptic ?0.5 ?0.5 ?0.5 ?0.5 ?0.5
?16 1,3 butylene glycol * 14 ?5.0 ?5.0 ?5.0 ?5.0
?17 Glycerol * 15 ?5.0
?18 Polyvinylpyrrolidone * 16 ?0.5
The definition of component
* 1 SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330: SH245 derives from Dow Corning company
* the different pelargonate of 2 tridecyls: Crodamol TN derives from Croda company
* 3 tocopherol acetates: the DL-a-tocopherol acetate derives from Ei sai company
* 4 candelilla wax: candelilla wax NC-1630 derives from Noda wax company
* 5 ceresine: ceresine SP-1021 derives from Strahl ﹠amp; Pitsh company
* 6 EICOSANOL docosane acid esters: EICOSANOL docosane acid esters derives from CasChemical company
* 7 anhydro sorbitol isostearate: Crill6 derive from Croda company
* 8 dimethicone polyol: DC5225C derive from Dow Corning company
* 9 cross linking polysiloxane powder: Torayfil E-506C derives from Dow Corning company
* 10 trimethylsiloxy esters of silicon acis: BY11-018 derive from Dow Corning company
* 11 hydrophobic treatment colorants:
Component Level (%) * oily absorption level (ml/g) Supplier
Titanium dioxide and Talcum that polymethyl siloxane is handled 0-70 ?24.4 ?Miyoshi?Kasei
The Muscovitum that polymethyl siloxane is handled 15-85 ?58.5 ?Miyoshi?Kasei
Dimethicone and stearic acid-treated microfine titanium dioxide 0-25 ?23.0 ?Miyoshi?Kasei
The silicon dioxide that dimethicone is handled 5-35 ?130.4 ?Miyoshi?Kasei
The synthetic mica that polymethyl siloxane is handled (synthetic fluorophologopite) 0-35 ?- ?Topy?Kougyou
The ferrum oxide that polymethyl siloxane is handled 0-70 ?- ?Daito?Kasei
The measuring method of * oily absorption level: JIS K5101 No.21
* 12 nicotiamide: nicotiamide derives from Roche company
* 13 pantothenylol: the DL-pantothenylol derives from Roche company
* 141, the 3-butanediol: 1,3 butylene glycol derives from Daisel Kagakukougyou
* 15 glycerol: glycerol USP derives from Asahi Denka
* 16 polyvinylpyrrolidones: PVP K-30 derives from GAF Chemicals company
Preparation method
The cosmetic composition of embodiment 1-5 prepares by following explanation: component numbering 1-10 82 ℃ of following heating for dissolving, then adds component 11 in a hermetically sealed can, mixture disperses to become uniform lipotropy mixture with homogenizer under 80 ℃.In addition, the mixture of component 12-18 is 80 ℃ of following heating for dissolving, and adds in the above-mentioned lipotropy mixture and form Emulsion.Gained Emulsion is adjusted down at 70 ℃.At last, Emulsion injects gas-tight container chiller cool to room temperature.
Above-described embodiment has many advantages.For example, they can provide the wettability of skin, the skin stretchability that can also provide, and give skin pure and fresh, portable impression.

Claims (9)

1. water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition, said composition comprises by weight:
(a) volatile silicone oils of about 25%-about 40%;
(b) nonvolatile oil of about 0.5%-about 8%;
(c) solid state wax of about 1%-about 5%;
(d) the HLB value of about 1%-about 8% is lower than about 8 lipophilic surfactant;
(e) the hydrophobic treatment color material of about 25%-about 35%; With
(f) water, its content are that the total amount of volatile silicone oils and water is at least about 50%.
2. water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition as claimed in claim 1 further comprises the skin treatment reagent that contains at least 0.1% nicotiamide of about 0.1%-about 10%.
3. as the water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition of claim 1 or 2, the fusing point of wherein said compositions is lower than about 50 ℃.
4. as the water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil, solid state wax and lipophilic surfactant's gross weight and hydrophobic treatment colorant is about 1: about 1: 1.5 of 7-.
5. as the water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein nonvolatile oil is selected from the different pelargonate of tridecyl, isostearic acid base isostearate, the isocetyl isostearate, Witconol 2310, the different pelargonate of isodecyl, the cetyl caprylate, the different pelargonate of different nonyl, the diisopropyl myristate, the isocetyl myristate, the isotridecyl myristate, the isopropyl myristate, iso stearyl hexadecane acid esters, isocetyl hexadecane acid esters, isodecyl hexadecane acid esters, isopropyl hexadecane acid esters, octyl group hexadecane acid esters, the caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl three-2-ethylhexanoate, dimethyltrimethylene glycol two (2-ethylhexanoate), diisopropyl dimeric dibasic acid ester and their mixture.
6. as the water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the lipophilic surfactant is selected from the surfactant of ester-formin, the surfactant of siloxanes form, and their mixture.
7. water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition as claimed in claim 6, wherein the ester-formin surfactant is selected from the anhydro sorbitol isostearate, anhydro sorbitol list isostearate, the anhydro sorbitol diisopstearate, anhydro sorbitol sesquialter isostearate, Arlacel-80, the anhydro sorbitol dioleate, Arlacel-83, glycerol list isostearate, the glycerol diisopstearate, glycerol sesquialter isostearate, glycerin mono-fatty acid ester, diolein, the glycerol sesquioleate, two glycerol, two different fat hard acid esters, two dioleins, two glycerol list iso stearyl ethers, two glycerol, two iso stearyl ethers, and their mixture.
8. as the water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition of claim 1 or 2, further comprise the wetting agent of about 1%-about 15%.
9. as the water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition of claim 1 or 2, said composition comprises by weight:
(a) volatile silicone oils of about 30%-about 40%;
(b) nonvolatile oil of about 2%-about 5%;
(c) solid state wax of about 2%-about 4%;
(d) lipophilic surfactant of about 1%-about 3%;
(e) the hydrophobic treatment colorant of about 25%-about 30%, wherein the weight ratio of nonvolatile oil, solid state wax and lipophilic surfactant's gross weight and hydrophobic treatment colorant is about 1: about 1: 2.5 of 5-.
(f) water of about 15%-about 25%;
(g) the skin treatment reagent of about 1%-about 5%; With
(h) wetting agent of about 2%-about 7%.
CN00819650.8A 2000-06-01 2000-06-01 Water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition Expired - Lifetime CN1217640C (en)

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CA2409616A1 (en) 2001-12-06
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CA2409616C (en) 2007-01-09

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