CN1405400A - Method for treating wool by bio-modification - Google Patents
Method for treating wool by bio-modification Download PDFInfo
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- CN1405400A CN1405400A CN 01127109 CN01127109A CN1405400A CN 1405400 A CN1405400 A CN 1405400A CN 01127109 CN01127109 CN 01127109 CN 01127109 A CN01127109 A CN 01127109A CN 1405400 A CN1405400 A CN 1405400A
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Abstract
The invention is a wool bio-denaturing processing method. The steps: a, use the lipase to process common wool; b, then use hydrogen peroxide and catalase to oxidizing the wool; c. then use albumen enzyme to process the wool; d, finally adopt smoothing and softening agent to improve the handling.
Description
The present invention relates to a kind of method of wool being carried out the modification processing by biotechnology, relate in particular to a kind of biology enzyme that adopts the yarn of wool or the blending of hair nitrile and bulk fibre, the wool top in preceding road thereof are carried out modification and mercerising processing, and improve the method for performances such as wool fabric gloss, color and luster, feel, felt proofing, ANTIPILLING with this.
Wool belongs to a kind of natural animal protein fiber, because its surface coverage has a large amount of ramentums, therefore, when common wool fabric when taking or wash, just can produce the rubbing effect between the scale layer of wool surface, make wool fabric produce felting and pilling effect.In recent years, along with the development of wool fabric to underwearization and light and thin type direction, the requirement that people take and nurse wool fabric is also more and more higher, as require the Woolens can " machine washable ", can be crease-resistant or non-ironing after taking or washing, soft and can ANTIPILLING, or the like.In fact, wool fabric will realize that the processing of above these functions is not fully independently, but complement each other, closely-related, wherein basic task is exactly to resolve the felt proofing problem of wool fabric.
Wool fabric can be realized the purpose of felt proofing by number of ways, and it grows up according to being based upon on the basis of reducing wool scale layer rubbing effect.At present, the processing method that is adopted is concluded and mainly contained three major types: the first kind is the polymer treatment method, promptly adopt polymer separately wool to be handled, though this processing method can make wool fabric have functions such as certain felt proofing and ANTIPILLING, but its shrink resistance or soft effect are still not ideal enough, the treatment effect instability, durability is relatively poor, cause this result's reason mainly to be: the free energy of wool surface is lower, and the free energy of most polymers is higher, they are difficult in the wool surface generation and evenly and effectively sprawl, simultaneously, other residue on wool surface has also hindered combining of polymer and wool, therefore, makes the effect of handling wool in this way very desirable.Second class is oxidation-polymer treatment method, promptly wool is carried out oxidizer treatment earlier, applying polymer then handles, this method both can converted goods, also can process wool top or wool yarn, be adopt the processing method handled of preventing felting and shrinking of wood fabric the most widely, and chlorine and to release the chlorine agent be to use at present maximum oxidants wherein, though chlorination-polymer treatment has obtained immense success in the wool shrinkproof arrangement, but cause easily that through the wool fibre after this method processing yellowing and color and luster wither secretly, add the AOX (Absorbable Organic Halogen) that produces man-hour and also can cause serious environmental to pollute; In addition, have the organochlorine compound that in a large number human body is had potential hazard on the chlorination mercerized wool, therefore, the shortcoming of this method also is conspicuous.The 3rd class is the Protease Treatment method, this facture belongs to the method for biological treatment, its enzyme preparation that adopts itself is exactly a kind of selectivity biocatalyst with high catalytic efficiency, during use, the condition of catalytic action is quite gentle, and also quite friendly to environment, is a kind of not only energy savings but also " green " material that helps environmental protection, simultaneously, the wool fabric after the employing Protease Treatment generally all has following characteristics and performance: can obtain lasting soft hand feeling; Gloss obviously increases, lovely luster; Can reach the machine washable standard of International Wool Secretariat's regulation; Wearing comfort greatly improves; Anti-pilling can significantly improve.But, adopt protease separately wool to be carried out very ideal of treatment effect, its reason is to contain special constructions such as lipides and many cystine disulfide bond in wool surface and the cuticula, can hinder the erosion and the attack of general chemical reagent and enzyme, so, use protease wool fibre is carried out the bio-modification processing, must carry out pre-treatment to this wool earlier.The pre-treatment of using morely at present mainly is chlorination pre-treatment and peroxy-monosulfate pre-treatment, though wherein the effect after the chlorination pre-treatment is good, but some shortcomings when existing above-mentioned chlorination-polymeric method to handle; And through after the sulfate pre-treatment, the feel of its wool is not ideal.In sum, all be the method that adopts chlorination mostly during traditional wool modifying is handled, environmental pollution that its chlorination produced and the organochlorine compound in the wool cause the use of this method to be restricted just day by day to the potential hazard that human body produced.Handle and adopt independent biological enzyme technology that wool is carried out modification, because of its service condition gentleness, energy savings, advantage such as pollution-free had become the direction that wool modifying is handled development already.
In the prior art, also have many employing Protease Treatment wools to improve the relevant report and the achievement of its felting property.As nineteen forty-one, (W.R.Middlebrook and H.Phillips, JSDC such as Middlebrook, 1941, Vol.57,137, tame association will dyes, nineteen forty-one, 57 volumes, the 3rd phase, the U.S.) reported that wool improves the achievement in research of its felting property with Protease Treatment, discover that after papain was handled, the felting performance significantly descended wool in solution of sodium bisulfite.In order to improve treatment effect and uniformity, various oxidation processes are studied, as performic acid, hydrogen peroxide, (A.N.Davidson and R.Preston such as chlorine, J.Text.Inst., 1965,47,685, i.e. textile journal, nineteen sixty-five, 47 volumes, the 6th phase, 685 pages, Britain), peroxide-enzyme (Perzyme) and chlorination-enzyme (Chlorzyme) treatment process (R.W.Moncrieff, Wool Shrinkage have been developed and therefore, National, Trade Press, London, 1953,326, i.e. wool felting, country's trade wall bulletin, London, nineteen fifty-three, 326 pages, the 5th phase, Britain).Through peroxide---the wool that enzyme is handled can not damage its feel, but fiber weightlessness is more, through chlorination---the wool that enzyme is handled then has soyeux feel and gloss, but, the dried chloridizing cost that adopts is very high, and can produce pollution, so this technology fails to be used widely.In recent years, development along with modern biotechnology, new enzyme is constantly cultivated and is utilized, wool is after Protease Treatment, not only can reduce its felting performance, thereby can produce machine-washable sanforized fabric, but also can improve the feel of wool, performance such as gloss and anti-fluffing and anti-pilling, as nearly soil is grand wait (Japan Patent: JP58-144,105) to report that wool is with potassium permanganate oxidation after, handle through neutral enzymatic, scale is removed, and average diameter has reduced by 1.5 μ m, and the tricot de laine percentage reduction of area after handling thus is reduced to-0.1% from 40%, anti-pilling increases by 3 grades, and flexibility and gloss also improve greatly.Aboveground brave two youths (Japan Patent: JP61-266,676) adopt handle wool plant rennet-three steps of DCCA-alkali protease, also obtain similar results, this technology has adopted the part biological method that wool is handled, thereby make wool reach felt proofing, ANTIPILLING, give wool gloss and soft hand feeling (certainly soft treatment must be arranged), its shortcoming is: protease cost height, complex disposal process, still adopted the chlorination that partly environment is had pollution, the wool damage is bigger etc.More than these the report in bioremediation; because the protease ratio in the processing procedure is easier to inactivation; the protease cost height that is used to handle, complex treatment process, treatment conditions are restive; if treatment conditions control is words improperly; also make wool produce excessive damage easily, therefore, the technology that really can access practical application but seldom; many processing methods only rest in the laboratory and use, and still can't realize in batches or large-scale production.
The objective of the invention is to, the method that provides a kind of wool by bio-modification to handle, this method adopts multiple biology enzyme that the wool in common full wool or the hair nitrile blending thing is carried out modification and mercerising is handled, make fabric have bright gloss, bright-coloured color and luster, smooth, fluffy and soft hand feeling, and feature and functions such as felt proofing and ANTIPILLING; And this processing method is environmentally friendly, meets environment protection requirement, does not have chlorination to pollute, and does not also contain the organochlorine compound that human body is had potential hazard in the fabric after treatment.
For realizing purpose of the present invention, the method that a kind of wool by bio-modification is handled comprises step: a, employing lipase are handled common wool; B, then carries out oxidation processes with hydrogen peroxide and catalase to wool; C, then uses protease that wool is handled; Reach d, adopt smooth agent and softener to improve the processing of feel at last.
Advantage of the present invention is: wool fabric gloss after treatment is bright, lovely luster, and feel is smooth, fluffy, soft, and has characteristics such as good felt proofing and ANTIPILLING, and fabric is taken and is nursed conveniently, meets the requirement of machine washable; Adopt this method that but wool is carried out mercerising and modification processing energy savings, environmentally friendly, compliance with environmental protection requirements can not produce pessimal stimulation and potential harm to human body when fabric is taken.
Below the present invention is described in further detail:
The technological process that wool by bio-modification of the present invention is handled is:
Conventional full wool or hair nitrile blended yarn (or the bulk fibre in its preceding road or wool top) → washing → lipase processing → hydrogen peroxide and catalase processing → Protease Treatment → dyeing → soft finish
In above-mentioned technological process of the present invention, the main lipase that adopts commodity " Lipolase 100T " by name, the protease of the catalase of commodity " Terminox Ultra 50L " by name and commodity " Nolan " by name carries out bio-modification and mercerising processing to the common full wool of routine or bulk fibre, the wool top in hair nitrile blended yarn or their preceding roads.
The method that this wool by bio-modification is handled is mainly used in the yarn yarn of full wool and the blending of hair nitrile, the bulk fibre in its preceding road, the processing of wool top.Divide at above-mentioned two kinds of different materials, its processing method and step are as follows:
1, a kind of method of wool by bio-modification processing, its step of handling at common Wool Yarns line is: the Wool Yarns line that 100kg is washed in advance is placed in the hank-dyeing machine equably, the lipase that in the time of 35-45 ℃, adds 0.3-5kg, with sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate as the cushioning liquid adjust pH to 8.0-10.5, move 20-60 minute, discharge water the back once with hot wash; Handle with the catalase of 3-15kg hydrogen peroxide and 0.01-0.3kg then, temperature is 30-70 ℃, and the pH value is 4.5-7.0, and the time is 30-90 minute, after discharging water, respectively washes once with hot water and cold water; Be warming up to after 35-60 ℃, add 0.05-1.0kg protease, usefulness sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate to 7.0-10.0, move 10-60 minute as the cushioning liquid adjust pH, and hot water and cold water are respectively washed twice; Next dye, add the amino-silicone oil softening agent of 1-5kg and the smooth agent of 1-10kg at last and carried out soft treatment 30-50 minute, go out cylinder, water dumping, oven dry.Above-mentioned method and step also are applicable to the bulk fibre and the wool top in the preceding road of Wool Yarns line.
2, the method for another kind of biological mercerising modification processing, at the wool ratio is that 10%-90% hair nitrile yarn is handled, the steps include: that the hair nitrile yarn that will wash in advance earlier is positioned in the hank-dyeing machine equably, by containing the weight of wool in 100kg in the hair nitrile blended yarn, the lipase that in the time of 35-45 ℃, adds 0.3-5kg weight, with sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate as the cushioning liquid adjust pH to 7.0-9.5, move 20-60 minute, discharge water the back once with hot wash; Handle with the catalase of 3-15kg hydrogen peroxide and 0.01-0.3kg then, temperature is 30-70 ℃, and the pH value is 4.5-7.0, and the time is 30-90 minute, after discharging water, respectively washes once with hot water and cold water; Be warming up to after 35-60 ℃, add 0.05-1.0kg protease, usefulness sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate to 7.0-10.0, move 10-60 minute as the cushioning liquid adjust pH, and hot water and cold water are respectively washed twice; Next dye, add the amino-silicone oil softening agent of 2-5kg and the smooth agent of 3-10kg at last and carried out soft treatment 30-60 minute, go out cylinder, water dumping, oven dry.
Be the several optimum examples that full wool and hair nitrile blended yarn, wool top and the bulk fibre of several different sizes are handled below:
Example 1: full wool wool yarn specification: 66
SThe merino wool top is spun into 52/2 strands yarns.
The above-mentioned wool yarn that 100kg is washed in advance places hank-dyeing machine equably, adds 1kg lipase in the time of 40 ℃, uses sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate as cushioning liquid adjust pH to 9.0, moves 45 minutes.Discharge water, hot wash once.Use 5kg hydrogen peroxide (being converted to 100% concentration) and 0.1kg catalase to handle then, temperature is 60 ℃, and the pH value is 6.5, and the time is 60 minutes.Discharge water, respectively wash once with hot water and cold water.Be warming up to after 55 ℃, add 0.7kg protease, with above cushioning liquid adjust pH to 8.0, move 45 minutes, hot water and cold water are respectively washed twice.Next dye, add 2kg amino-silicone oil softening agent and 4kg smooth agent at last and carried out soft treatment 40 minutes, go out cylinder, water dumping, oven dry.
Example 2: full wool wool yarn specification: 52
SUruguay's wool top is spun into 26/2 strands yarns.
The above-mentioned wool yarn that 100kg is washed in advance places hank-dyeing machine equably, adds 1kg lipase in the time of 40 ℃, uses sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate as cushioning liquid adjust pH to 9.0, moves 45 minutes.Discharge water, hot wash once.Use 6kg hydrogen peroxide (being converted to 100% concentration) and 0.1kg catalase to handle then, temperature is 60 ℃, and the pH value is 7.0, and the time is 60 minutes.Discharge water, respectively wash once with hot water and cold water.Be warming up to after 60 ℃, add 0.7kg protease, with above cushioning liquid adjust pH to 7.5, move 60 minutes, hot water and cold water are respectively washed twice.Next dye, add 3kg amino-silicone oil softening agent and 5kg smooth agent at last and carried out soft treatment 40 minutes, go out cylinder, water dumping, oven dry.
Example 3: hair nitrile blended yarn specification: hair/nitrile ratio is 7/3, is spun into 36/2 strands yarns.
The above-mentioned wool yarn that 100kg is washed in advance places hank-dyeing machine equably, adds 0.7kg lipase in the time of 40 ℃, uses sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate as cushioning liquid adjust pH to 9.0, moves 35 minutes.Discharge water, hot wash once.Use 3.5kg hydrogen peroxide (being converted to 100% concentration) and 0.08kg catalase to handle then, temperature is 60 ℃, and the pH value is 6.5, and the time is 40 minutes.Discharge water, respectively wash once with hot water and cold water.Be warming up to after 55 ℃, add 0.35kg protease, with above cushioning liquid adjust pH to 7.5, move 45 minutes, hot water and cold water are respectively washed twice.Next dye, add 2kg amino-silicone oil softening agent and 4kg smooth agent at last and carried out soft treatment 40 minutes, go out cylinder, water dumping, oven dry.
Example 4: hair nitrile blended yarn specification: hair/nitrile ratio is 3/7, is spun into 52/2 strands yarns.
The above-mentioned wool yarn that 100kg is washed in advance places hank-dyeing machine equably, adds 0.1kg lipase in the time of 40 ℃, uses sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate as cushioning liquid adjust pH to 9.0, moves 30 minutes.Discharge water, hot wash once.Use 1kg hydrogen peroxide (being converted to 100% concentration) and 0.05kg catalase to handle then, temperature is 60 ℃, and the pH value is 7.0, and the time is 45 minutes.Discharge water, respectively wash once with hot water and cold water.Be warming up to after 50 ℃, add 0.02kg protease, with above cushioning liquid adjust pH to 7.0, move 45 minutes, hot water and cold water are respectively washed twice.Next dye, add 2kg amino-silicone oil softening agent and 5kg smooth agent at last and carried out soft treatment 40 minutes, go out cylinder, water dumping, oven dry.
Example 5: full wool top specification: 64
sMerino Australia wool top.
The above-mentioned wool top that 100kg is washed in advance places the ball top dyeing machine equably, adds 1kg lipase in the time of 45 ℃, uses sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate as cushioning liquid adjust pH to 8.5, moves 60 minutes.Discharge water, hot wash once.Use 5kg hydrogen peroxide (being converted to 100% concentration) and 0.08kg catalase to handle then, temperature is 50 ℃, and pH is 6.5, and the time is 70 minutes.Discharge water, respectively wash once with hot water and cold water.Be warming up to after 45 ℃, add 0.4kg protease, transfer pH to 7.5 with above cushioning liquid, move 40 minutes, hot water and cold water are respectively washed twice.Next dye, add 2kg amino-silicone oil softening agent and 2kg smooth agent at last and carried out soft treatment 50 minutes, go out cylinder, water dumping, oven dry.
Example 6: the diffusing hair of a full wool specification: 50
sCeylon's hair.
The above-mentioned diffusing hair that 100kg is washed in advance places the flock dyeing machine equably, adds 0.8kg lipase in the time of 38 ℃, uses sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate as cushioning liquid adjust pH to 9.0, moves 55 minutes.Discharge water, hot wash once.Use 7kg hydrogen peroxide (being converted to 100% concentration) and 0.1kg catalase to handle then, temperature is 70 ℃, and pH is 7.0, and the time is 70 minutes.Discharge water, respectively wash once with hot water and cold water.Be warming up to after 40 ℃, add 0.3kg protease, transfer pH to 8.0 with above cushioning liquid, move 40 minutes, hot water and cold water are respectively washed twice.Next dye, add 1kg amino-silicone oil softening agent and 2kg smooth agent at last and carried out soft treatment 45 minutes, go out cylinder, water dumping, oven dry.
The present invention mainly is applicable to the processing of common full wool or hair nitrile blended yarn; Simultaneously, this method also is applicable to by the bulk fibre in the preceding road of above-mentioned yarn or the bio-modification and the mercerising of wool top and handles.
Claims (7)
1, a kind of method of wool by bio-modification processing comprises step:
A, employing lipase are handled common wool;
B, then carries out oxidation processes with hydrogen peroxide and catalase to wool;
C, then uses protease that wool is handled;
Reach d, adopt smooth agent and softener wool to be improved the processing of feel at last.
2, the method for a kind of wool by bio-modification processing according to claim 1, wool wherein can be the yarn of full wool or bulk fibre, the wool top in its preceding road.
3, the method for a kind of wool by bio-modification processing according to claim 1, wool wherein can be bulk fibre, the wool top in mao yarn of nitrile blending or its preceding road.
4, the method for handling according to claim 1,2 or 3 described a kind of wool by bio-modification, lipase wherein is Lipolase 100T, and catalase is Terminox Ultra 50L, and protease is Nolan.
5, the method for a kind of wool by bio-modification processing according to claim 4, lipase wherein adopts Lipolase 100T, and its consumption is the 0.3-5% of processed wool weight; Catalase adopts Terminox Ultra 50L, and its consumption is the 0.01-0.5% of processed wool weight, and protease adopts Nolan (Nolan), and its consumption is the 0.1-1% of processed wool weight.
6, the method for a kind of wool by bio-modification processing according to claim 5, wool wherein is the bulk fibre or the wool top in Wool Yarns line or its preceding road, its treatment step is:
A, the wool yarn that will wash in advance earlier, bulk fibre or wool top are positioned in the corresponding dyeing machine equably, by wool weight is 100kg, the lipase that in the time of 35-45 ℃, adds 0.3-5kg weight, with sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate as the cushioning liquid adjust pH to 8.0-10.5, move 20-60 minute, discharge water the back once with hot wash;
B, handle with the catalase of 3-15kg hydrogen peroxide and 0.01-0.3kg then, temperature is 30-70 ℃, and the pH value is 4.5-7.0, and the time is 30-90 minute, after discharging water, respectively washes once with hot water and cold water;
C, be warming up to after 35-60 ℃, add 0.05-1.0kg protease, with sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate as the cushioning liquid adjust pH to 7.0-10.0, move 10-60 minute, hot water and cold water are respectively washed twice;
D, next dye, add the amino-silicone oil softening agent of 1-5kg and the smooth agent of 1-10kg at last and carried out soft treatment 30-50 minute, go out cylinder, water dumping, oven dry.
7, the method handled of a kind of wool by bio-modification according to claim 5 is that the hair nitrile blended yarn of 10-90% is handled to the wool ratio, the steps include:
A, the wool yarn that will wash in advance earlier are positioned in the hank-dyeing machine equably, weight by contained wool in its mao nitrile blended yarn is 100kg, the lipase that in the time of 35-45 ℃, adds 0.3-5kg weight, with sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate as the cushioning liquid adjust pH to 7.0-9.5, move 20-60 minute, discharge water the back once with hot wash;
B, handle with the catalase of 3-15kg hydrogen peroxide and 0.01-0.3kg then, temperature is 30-70 ℃, and the pH value is 4.5-7.0, and the time is 30-90 minute, after discharging water, respectively washes once with hot water and cold water;
C, be warming up to after 35-60 ℃, add 0.05-1.0kg protease, with sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate as the cushioning liquid adjust pH to 7.0-10.0, move 10-60 minute, hot water and cold water are respectively washed twice;
D, next dye, add the amino-silicone oil softening agent of 2-5kg and the smooth agent of 3-10kg at last and carried out soft treatment 30-60 minute, go out cylinder, water dumping, oven dry.
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