CN1292676A

CN1292676A - Cosmetic method for treating coloured hair to reduce colour fade

Info

Publication number: CN1292676A
Application number: CN 98813995
Authority: CN
Inventors: 伯纳德·卡斯塔英; 路易斯·C·迪亚斯; 迪特尔·H·J·兰施; 尼尔·A·麦克吉尔普; 梅利莎·S·莫尼克; 克里斯蒂娜·H·K·萨米; 布莱克·G·休斯
Original assignee: Procter and Gamble Ltd
Current assignee: Procter and Gamble Ltd; Procter and Gamble Co
Priority date: 1998-04-27
Filing date: 1998-08-07
Publication date: 2001-04-25
Also published as: EP1073406A1; CA2330483A1; WO1999055295A8; AU8900998A; BR9815811A; JP2003522726A; WO1999055295A1; CO5021192A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for treating mammalian colored hair to reduce or prevent color fade and/or color shift comprising:(a)treating the hair with a composition comprising a hydrophobic and/or cationic conditioning agent; followed by(b)wetting the hair. Optionally the method can include treating the hair, after step(b), with a composition comprising a conditioning agent and/or an ultraviolet filtering agent. The method of the present invention provides a reduction or prevention of color fade and/or color shift or colored hair. The method can help to maintain a more consistent color and, therefore, can increase the time between dye applications.

Description

Be used to handle dyed hair to alleviate the beauty method that fades

Technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of processing mammal dyed hair, to alleviate or to prevent to fade and/or the beauty method of variable color.

Background of invention

The human not hope that changes hair color is an aspect of the modern life, and from Rome Empire Age, people just often change the color of hair, to adapt to popular and variation fashion.But, realize accurate priming color, this priming color is kept one desirable period by hair, is originally a more unintelligible target.

In case with hair coloring, just wish that this color keeps one expected period consistently, wishing also that this color is anti-fades (being also referred to as washability), and this fading is by cleaning function and other external factor sometimes, causes as the effect of the sun.Therefore, expectation keep uniform color and colored hair must be exposed to cause fading and/or the factor of variable color between have certain balanced action.

Therefore, wish a kind of method of handling painted hair of exploitation, hair is anti-to fade and/or the ability of variable color to strengthen, this fade and/or variable color be sometimes because, as the washing in the conventional cleaning mode, suffer rainwater, suffer other sources water (as from swimming) or the effect of the sun cause.Thereby, in the process of method between application of dye of wishing to be developed, keep more uniform dyeing.

In the art, it is known anticipating hair before the washing.For example, US-4402936 (Kao) discloses a kind of pretreatment compositions, and said composition comprises a kind of ring-type cation group, and it has the conditioning effect of multiple beneficial.US-5700456 (L ' Oreal) a kind of pretreatment compositions is disclosed, said composition comprises ceramide and cationic polymer, in order to produce a kind of winding effect of going.GB-1570220 (L ' Oreal) a kind of pretreatment compositions is disclosed, said composition comprises cationic materials, in order to the ill effect that elimination is faded or the processing of dyeing brings.JP-60087208 (Shiseido) discloses a kind of pretreatment compositions, and said composition comprises slaine, the loss of protein component when preventing to wash hair, thereby protection hair and improve the hair that is subjected to the chemistry injury.But, these lists of references all openly pretreatment compositions preventing or alleviating purposes aspect the fading of dyed hair/variable color.

We are surprised to find that, with the shampoo hair washing or before the water, with a kind of wet or dried colored hair of compositions-treated that contains hydrophobic type and/or cationic conditioner, can alleviate or prevent because of above-mentioned hair washing or fading and/or variable color of causing of water.

Summary of the invention

The invention provides a kind of processing mammal dyed hair,, comprising to alleviate or to prevent to fade and/or the beauty method of variable color:

(a) with a kind of compositions-treated hair, said composition contains a kind of hydrophobic type and/or cationic conditioner; Then

(b) moistening hair.

After (b) step, this method can randomly comprise the compositions-treated hair that contains conditioner and/or the agent of filter ultraviolet with a kind of.

Method of the present invention is a kind ofly to alleviate or prevent that dyed hair from fading and/or the method for variable color.This method helps the color that keeps firm, has therefore prolonged the time between the application of dye.

Detailed Description Of The Invention

Method of the present invention comprises two basic steps at least: the first, and pre-treatment step; The second, the moistening step.Can be sure of, the pretreatment of carrying out with the compositions that contains conditioner " sealing " hair, thereby prevent or alleviate the leaching loss of the dye molecule that causes because of water, but this to be not hope limit the scope of the invention.

Here used " colored hair " is meant the hair that changes color by processing.Be meant especially by dyeing and handle, for good and all or temporarily change the true qualities of hair.

Here used " fading and/or variable color " is meant the change in color of colored hair, and this variation is that the effect owing to external condition causes.Be meant that especially colored hair is because of being exposed to the change color that the sun or water cause.

Here used " fade and/or variable color alleviate or prevent " is meant prevention, postpones and/or suppress the variation of hair color.By alleviating or preventing to fade and/or variable color, can obtain more firm color, and can prolong the interval of application of dye.

Here used " moistening of hair " is to instigate hair water.This be meant especially in cleaning course water, for example the hair washing or other activities, as swimming.When this method was a kind of cleaning mode, preferred this cleaning mode will often carry out, preferably once a day to weekly, more preferably once a day once to per three days, most preferably once a day.

Pre-treatment step

With a kind of compositions that contains conditioner, painted hair is carried out pretreatment, this is a basic step of this method.Here can use any conditioner that is applicable to hair.Said composition preferably comprises at least a hydrophobic type and/or cationic conditioner.Suitable conditioner comprises cationic surface active agent, cation type polymer, volatility and non-volatile polysiloxanes (comprising solubility and insolubility polysiloxanes), nonvolatile Hydrocarbon, saturated C ₁₄-C ₂₂Straight-chain fatty alcohol, non-volatile hydrocarbon ester, liquid polyol carboxylate and their mixture.Best conditioner is cationic surface active agent, cation type polymer and polysiloxanes (particularly insolubility polysiloxanes).

Cationic surface active agent

The cationic surface active agent that is used for this method comprises amino or quaternary ammonium part.This cationic surface active agent best (although dispensable) is insoluble to this compositions.The following files, document all incorporated by reference herein discloses those and can be used for this cationic surface active agent: M.C.Publishing Co., McCutcheon ' s, Detergents ﹠amp; Emulsifiers, (North America version 1979); People's such as Schwartz Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistry and Technology, New York:Interscience Publishers, 1949; Authorized the U.S.3155519 of Hilfer on November 3rd, 1964; Decembers in 1975 were authorized people's such as Laughlin U.S.3929678 on the 30th; Authorized people's such as Bailey U.S.3959461 on May 25th, 1976; With authorize Bolich, the U.S.4387090 of Jr. June 7 nineteen eighty-three.

Containing in the middle of the cationic surface active agent material of quaternary ammonium, what can be used for this is those cationic surface active agent materials with following general formula:

R wherein ₁-R ₄Be aliphatic group independently, or have kiki fang alkyl group, aromatic series, alkoxyl, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamidoalkyl, hydroxyalkyl, the aromatic yl group of 1-22 carbon atom with about 1-22 carbon atom; X is into salt anionic, is selected from one-tenth salt anionic, acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolic root, phosphate radical, nitrate anion, sulfate radical and the alkyl sulfate of halogen (as chlorine, bromine) as those.This aliphatic group except that comprising carbon atom and hydrogen atom, can also comprise ehter bond and other groups, as amino group.This long-chain fat family group, 12 carbon or higher aliphatic group can be saturated or unsaturated according to appointment.Two long-chains are (as two C ₁₂-C ₂₂Chain, preferred two C ₁₆-C ₁₈Chain; Aliphatic group, preferred alkyl group) two short chains are (as C ₁-C ₃Alkyl, preferred C ₁-C ₂Alkyl) quaternary ammonium salt be particularly preferred.

The primary, the salt of the second month in a season and uncle's fatty amine also is the cationic surface active agent material that suits.The alkyl group of this amine preferably has about 12-22 carbon atom, and can be substituted or not be substituted.Thisly be used for amine of the present invention and comprise stearamidopropyldime.hylamine, diethylamino ethyl stearmide, dimethyl stearylamine, dimethyl Semen sojae atricolor amine, Semen sojae atricolor amine, lima bean tabernaemontanus bulrush amine, tridecyl amine, ethyl stearylamine, N-tallow propane diamidogen, ethoxylation (with 5 moles oxirane) stearylamine, dihydroxy ethyl stearylamine, and Semen arachidis hypogaeae alkyl docosyl amine (arachidylbehenylamine).Suitable amine salt comprises halogenide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, citrate and alkyl sulfate.This salt comprises the stearic amine salt of hydrochloric acid, chlorination Semen sojae atricolor amine, stearylamine formates, dichloride N-tallow propane diamidogen and stearamidopropyldime.hylamine citrate.Authorized on June 23rd, 1981 to disclose among people's such as Nachtigal the U.S.4275055 and can be used for cationic amine surfactant of the present invention.

By the weight of compositions, the amount ranges of cationic surface active agent, preferably about 0.1-10%, more preferably from about 0.25-5%, most preferably from about 0.5-2%.

The cation type polymer conditioner

Can be used for care composition of the present invention, can also comprise one or more cation type polymer conditioners.This cation type polymer conditioner is preferably water miscible.As top disclosed cationic surface active agent, cation type polymer also uses with same amount ranges.

" water miscible " cation type polymer, be meant so a kind of polymer, this polymer can be dissolved in the water fully, and is dissolved in 0.1% concentration in 25 ℃ the water (distilled water or the water suitable with distilled water), forms a kind of naked clear solutions basically of looking down.Preferred this polymer dissolves fully, is 0.5% solution with the clarifying basically concentration of formation; More preferably concentration is 1.0% solution.

Term " polymer " used herein " will comprise such material, this material prepares by a kind of monomer or two kinds of monomers (being copolymer) or multiple monomeric polymerization.

Usually, the weight average molecular weight of cation type polymer is at least 5000, and representational is to be at least 10000, and is lower than about 10000000.Preferably, molecular weight is about 100000-2000000.Usually cation type polymer has nitrogenous cationic moiety, as quaternary ammonium or cationic amine part, and the mixture of quaternary ammonium and cationic amine.

As long as meet the water-soluble standard, any anion balance ion all can be used for cation type polymer.Suitable equilibrium ion comprises halogen ion (as Cl, Br, I or F, preferred Cl, Br or I), sulfate radical and methylsulfate.Enumerating here is not exclusive, and other suitable equilibrium ions also are operable.

Usually, the cationic nitrogenous part occurs as substituent group, on the unitary part of whole cationic hair-conditioning polymer monomer, therefore, cation type polymer can comprise bipolymer, terpolymer etc., the monomer of these copolymers is quaternary ammonium or cationic replacement amine monomers unit, spacer monomers unit, and other non-cationic type unit-be called here.This polymer is well known in the art, and can be at CTFA cosmetics dictionary (3rd edition, edited by Estrin, Crosley andHaynes, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., find a lot of this polymer 1982).

Suitable cation type polymer comprises, for example, have the vinyl monomer of cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functional group and the copolymer of water solublity spacer monomers, this water solublity spacer monomers can be acrylamide, Methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl group acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methyl acrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidone.The monomer that alkyl and dialkyl group replace preferably has C ₁-C ₇Alkyl group more preferably has C ₁-C ₃Alkyl group.Other suitable spacer monomers comprise vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (by the depolymerization vinyl acetate preparation), maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

Cationic amine can be primary, secondary, tertiary amine, and this depends on the concrete kind and the pH of compositions.

The vinyl monomer that amine replaces can amine the form polymerization, can randomly change into ammonium then by quaterisation; Also can be similarly that amine is quaternized, and then form polymer.For example, tertiary amine functional group can by with the reactant salt of formula R ＇ X and quaternized, wherein R ＇ is a short-chain alkyl, preferred C ₁-C ₇Alkyl, more preferably C ₁-C ₃Alkyl, and X is the anion that a kind of and quaternary ammonium form water soluble salt.

Suitable cation amino and quaternary ammonium monomer comprise, for example, by propenoic acid dialkyl aminoalkyl ester, the methacrylic acid dialkyl aminoalkyl ester, acrylic acid one alkylaminoalkyl, methacrylic acid one alkylaminoalkyl, trialkyl methacryloxy alkylammonium salt, trialkyl acryloyloxyalkyl ammonium salt, trialkyl acryloxy ammonium salt, vinyl compound and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomer that the diallyl quaternary ammonium salt replaces, this vinyl quaternary ammonium monomer has cyclic cationic nitrogenous ring such as pyridine, imidazoles and quaternised ketopyrrolidine, for example alkyl vinyl imidazoles, alkylvinylpyridines, alkyl vinyl ketopyrrolidine salt.These monomeric moieties are preferably low alkyl group, as C ₁-C ₃Alkyl, more preferably C ₁-C ₂Alkyl.Here the vinyl monomer that used suitable amine replaces comprises propenoic acid dialkyl aminoalkyl ester, methacrylic acid dialkyl aminoalkyl ester, dialkyl aminoalkyl acrylamide, dialkyl aminoalkyl Methacrylamide, and alkyl group wherein is preferably C ₁-C ₇Alkyl, more preferably C ₁-C ₃Alkyl.

Cation type polymer can comprise the mixture of monomeric unit, and this monomeric unit is by the monomer of amine and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted and/or compatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic hair-conditioning polymer for example comprises: the copolymer of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazole salt (as chloride salt) is (in industry by Cosmetic, Toiletryand Fragrance Association, " CTFA " is called Polyquaternium-16), as from (the Parsippany of BASFWyandotte company, NJ, the commodity of USA) buying are called those under the LUVIQUAT (for example LUVIQUATFC 370); The copolymer (being called Polyquaternium-11 by CTFA in the industry) of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl acrylate methyl base amino-ethyl ester, as from (the Wayne of Gaf company, NJ, the copolymer of USA) buying under trade name GAFQUAT (for example QAFQUAT 755N); The cation type polymer that contains the diallyl quaternary ammonium, comprise the copolymer as dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer and acrylamide and dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride, (CTFA) is called as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7 respectively in industry; And the inorganic acid salt of the amino-Arrcostab of the homopolymer of unsaturated carboxylic acid and copolymer, wherein unsaturated carboxylic acid has 3-5 carbon atom, sees U.S.4009256 (being introduced into as a reference) for details here.

Other available cation type polymer comprises polysaccharide polymer, as cationic cellulose derivative and cationic starch derivant.

Be applicable to this cationic polysaccharide polymer material, comprise polysaccharide polymer with following structural formula: Wherein: A is the dehydration glucose residue, and as starch or cellulose dehydration glucose residue, R is alkylidene oxyalkylene, polyoxy alkylidene or hydroxy alkylidene group, or their combination; R ₁, R ₂And R ₃Be alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, aryl alkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxy aryl group independently, each group contains up to about 18 carbon atoms, and the total number of carbon atoms of each cationic moiety (is R ₁, R ₂And R ₃In the carbon number sum) preferably be about 20 or lower; X is into salt anionic as previously mentioned.

Cationic cellulose can be from (the Edison of Amerchol company, NJ, USA) obtain among series of polymers Polymer JR (RTM) and the LR (RTM), the salt of the epoxide reactive hydroxyethyl-cellulose that replaces for trimethyl ammonium, (CTFA) is called Polyquatenium10 in the industry.The cationic cellulose of another kind of type comprises polymeric quaternary ammonium salt, and this quaternary ammonium salt is the quaternary ammonium salt of the epoxide reaction gained of hydroxyethyl-cellulose and the replacement of lauryl dimethyl ammonium, and (CTFA) is called Polyquatenium24 in the industry.These materials can (Edison, NJ USA) obtain, under trade name PolymerLM-200 (RTM) from Amerchol company.Can be used for this other cation type polymer, comprise cationic guar derivative,, can from the Jaguar R series of Celanese company, obtain as guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride (guar hydroxypropyltrimoniumchloride).Other material comprises the cellulose ether that contains quaternary nitrogen (as described in the U.S.3962418 of document incorporated by reference here), and the copolymer of etherified cellulose and starch (described in document U.S.3958581 incorporated by reference here).

As mentioned above, cation type polymer is water-soluble.But this does not also mean that it must dissolve in compositions.But, cation type polymer or dissolve in the compositions perhaps dissolves in the complex coacervation mutually of compositions, and said composition is formed by cation type polymer and anionic materials.The mutually available anion surfactant of the complex coacervation of cation type polymer or form with anionic polymer, this anionic surfactant or anionic polymer (for example kayexalate) can randomly be added in the said composition.

The polysiloxanes conditioner

The care composition of this method also can comprise solubility and insolubility polysiloxanes conditioner.The implication of solubility is meant that this polysiloxanes conditioner can be miscible in the aqueous carrier of compositions, thereby constitutes a mutually in-phase part.The implication of insolubility is meant that this polysiloxanes conditioner forms isolating, a discontinuous phase outside aqueous carrier, as the emulsion or the form of suspension of silicones drop.

By the weight of compositions, polysiloxanes hair conditioner level used in the said composition is about 0.05-10%, preferably about 0.1-6%, more preferably from about 0.5-5%, most preferably from about 0.5-3%.

The soluble poly siloxanes comprises alkoxylated polysiloxane, as the alkoxylate polydimethylsiloxane, polyether modified siloxane polymer for example, resemble the polydimethylsiloxane of polypropylene oxide, polyethylene glycol oxide modification, wherein the amount of ethylene oxide and/or propylene is enough to obtain the dissolubility in compositions.

But the insolubility polysiloxanes is preferred.Be used for the viscosity that insolubility polysiloxanes hair conditioner is herein had, preferably about 100-2000000 centistoke, more preferably from about 10000-1800000, most preferably from about 100000-1500000 in the time of 25 ℃.The useable glass capillary viscosimeter is by test method CTM0004 (Dow ComingCorporate Test Method CTMOOO4, July20,1970) the measurement viscosity in Dow Corning Corporation's July in 1970 (issue) on the 20th.

Suitable Y 7175 comprises that ring-type gathers (two) methylsiloxane (cyclomethicone).That suit, insoluble, non-volatile silicone fluid comprises poly-alkylsiloxane, poly-aryl siloxanes, polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane, polyether siloxane copolymer and their mixture.Other insoluble non-volatile silicone fluid if having the hair-conditioning performance, also is operable.Terminology used here " non-volatile " is meant the boiling point of siloxanes at least about 260 ℃, preferably at least about 275 ℃, more preferably at least about 300 ℃.Vapour pressure in this class material environment around is very low or do not have a tangible vapour pressure.Term " silicone fluid (silicone fluid) " is meant flowable silicone materials, and its viscosity is lower than 1000000 centistokes in the time of 25 ℃.Usually, the viscosity of this silicone fluid, in the time of 25 ℃ between about 5-1000000 centistoke, preferably between about 10-300000 centistoke.

This silicone fluid also comprises poly-alkyl or the poly-aryl siloxanes with following array structure: Wherein R is an alkyl or aryl, and x is the integer of about 7-8000, and " A " is the polysiloxane chain end-capping group.

Substituent group-the alkyl or aryl of (R) or polysiloxane chain terminal (A) can have arbitrary structures on the polysiloxane chain, as long as the polysiloxanes of gained is a liquid at room temperature, is hydrophobic when being applied to hair, and non-stimulated, nontoxic, no nocuity; With other component compatibility of compositions, under normal use and storage requirement, has chemical stability; Can be deposited on the hair of conditioning and conditioning hair.

Suitable A group comprises methyl, methoxyl group, ethyoxyl, propoxyl group and aryloxy group.Two identical or different groups of R group representative on the silicon atom.The identical group of preferred two R groups representative.Suitable R group comprises methyl, ethyl, propyl group, phenyl, aminomethyl phenyl and benzyl.Preferred polysiloxanes is polydimethylsiloxane, poly-di-ethyl siloxane and PSI.Polydimethylsiloxane is particularly preferred.

Available non-volatile poly-alkylsiloxane fluid comprises, for example, and polydimethylsiloxane.These siloxanes can obtain from the ViscasilR of General Electric company and SF 96 series, or obtain from 200 series of Dow Coning.

Available polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane fluid also comprises, for example, and PSI.These siloxanes can obtain from General Electric company, are SF1075 methylbenzene base fluid, or obtain from DowConing, are 556 cosmetics-stage liquid.

Be to strengthen the glossiness of hair, the polysiloxanes of special preferred heights arylation, as have about 1.46 or higher refraction index particularly has about 1.52 or the poly-ethylsiloxane of the height phenylating of high refractive index more.When using the polysiloxanes of these high refractive indexes, should sneak into spreading agent (as surfactant or polyorganosiloxane resin) by following description, to reduce surface tension and to strengthen the film forming ability of this material.

Available polyether siloxane copolymer comprises, for example, and the polydimethylsiloxane of polypropylene oxide modification (for example DowComingDC-1248), but also can use the mixture of ethylene oxide or ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.The level of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide is enough low, to prevent its dissolubility in compositions.

The list of references of the open silicone fluid that suits has U.S.2826551, Geen; Authorized the U.S.3964500 of DrakoR on June 22nd, 1976; U.S.4364837, Pader; And British patent 849433, Woolston.All these patents are at this document all incorporated by reference.Also that document incorporated by reference is " silicon compound " (Silicon Compounds) of PetrarchSystems company distribution in 1984.This piece list of references provides a large amount of (but being exclusive) suitable silicone fluids.

The polysiloxanes hair-conditioning material that another is specially adapted to the polysiloxanes conditioner is insoluble silicone gum (silicone gum).Here used " silicone gum " is meant that viscosity is more than or equal to the polysiloxane material of 1000000 centistokes in the time of 25 ℃.The document of describing silicone gum has Petrarch and other document to comprise U.S.4152416 and the Noll that authorized people such as Spitzert on May 1st, 1979, the Chemistry and Technology of Silicones of Water, New York:Academic Press 1968.The document of describing silicone gum also has General Electric SiliconeRubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE33, SE54 and SE76.Described these documents are at this document all incorporated by reference.Typically the weight average molecular weight of " silicone gum " surpasses approximately 200000, generally is between about 200000-1000000.Instantiation comprises polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethylsiloxane) (ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer, poly-(dimethyl siloxane) (diphenyl siloxane) (ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer, and their mixture.

Preferably, the polysiloxanes hair conditioner comprises the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane sizing material and polydimethylsiloxane fluid, wherein, the viscosity of polydimethylsiloxane sizing material surpasses 1000000 centistokes, and the viscosity of polydimethylsiloxane fluid is about 10-100000 centistoke; Glue and fluidic ratio are about 30: 70 to about 70: 30, preferred about 40: 60 to about 60: 40.

The optional member that can comprise in the silicone conditioning agent is a polyorganosiloxane resin.Polyorganosiloxane resin is highly cross-linked polymer siloxane system.In the manufacture process of polyorganosiloxane resin, by trifunctional and silicane of four functional groups, with a functional group or two functional silanes, or with a functional group and two mixing of functional silanes and introduce crosslinked.For obtaining the required degree of cross linking of polyorganosiloxane resin, will change according to the unitary variation of specific silane that adds in this polyorganosiloxane resin, this is readily appreciated that in this area.In general, silicone materials as long as they have enough trifunctionals and four-functional group siloxanyl monomers unit (therefore having crosslinked fully), causes them to be dried to hard or firm film, just can be considered as polyorganosiloxane resin.In a concrete silicone materials, the ratio of oxygen atom and silicon atom is the index of crosslinking degree.If the silicone compositions of a silicon atom with regard to 1.1 oxygen atoms of having an appointment at least arranged usually, just will be silicone resin of the present invention.Preferred oxygen atom: the ratio of silicon atom was at least 1.2: 1.0.Used silane when making silicone resin, comprise monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, a phenyl-, diphenyl-, aminomethyl phenyl-, a vinyl-and methyl ethylene-chlorosilane and tetrachloro silicane, and methyl substituted silane is the most frequently used.Preferred resin is GE SS4230 and the SS4267 that General Electric provides.Industrial available polyorganosiloxane resin generally is to provide with the dissolution mechanism that is dissolved in low viscosity, volatility or the non-volatile siloxane fluid.Here used polyorganosiloxane resin provides and adds in this compositions with this dissolution mechanism.This is clearly for these those skilled in the art.

Polyorganosiloxane resin can be strengthened the deposition of polysiloxanes on hair, and can improve the refraction index of hair, strengthens the gloss of hair.

The background material of relevant polysiloxanes, comprise silicone fluid, sizing material and resin are discussed, and the chapters and sections of the manufacturing of polysiloxanes, all can be at " polymer science and engineering encyclopedia " (Encyclopedia ofPolymer Science and Engineering), volume 15, second edition, 204-308 page or leaf, John Wiley﹠amp; Sons, Inc. finds in 1989 (documents incorporated by reference here).

Particularly, can discern silicone materials and polyorganosiloxane resin easily, " MTDQ " nomenclature that these those skilled in the art know that Here it is according to easy nomenclature.In this nomenclature,, polysiloxanes is described according to the various siloxanyl monomers unit of the formation polysiloxanes that occurs.Say that simply symbol M is represented a functional group units (CH ₃) ₃SiO _0.5D represents two functional group units (CH ₃) ₂SiO; T represents trifunctional unit (CH ₃) SiO _1.5Q represents four-functional group cell S iO ₂The unit symbol of band apostrophe is represented other substituent group rather than methyl as M ＇, D ＇, T ＇ and Q ＇, and all must define M ＇, D ＇, T ＇ and Q ＇ specially to every kind of situation.The typical substituent group of replacing comprises such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl etc.In the MDTQ nomenclature, various unitary mol ratios no matter be footnote under the symbol of every kind of unit sum (or its average) in the expression polysiloxanes, still in conjunction with the concrete indicated ratio of molal weight, have intactly been described silicone materials.In polyorganosiloxane resin, higher T, Q, T ＇ and/or Q ＇ represent higher crosslinked level with respect to the mole of D, D ＇, M and/or M ＇.But, as previously mentioned, also can represent crosslinked aggregate level to the ratio of silicon with oxygen.

Here used polyorganosiloxane resin, preferred MQ, MT, MTQ, MQ and MDTQ resin.Therefore, preferred polysiloxanes substituent group is a methyl.The ratio of preferred especially MQ resin, wherein M: Q is about 0.5: 1.0-1.5: 1.0, and also the mean molecule quantity of this resin is about 1000-10000.

The moistening step

The moistening step of implementing after pre-treatment step is second basic step of this method.This step can comprise: allow pretreated hair (can be wet or do) be subjected to water, for example, wash flushing or moistening in the pretreated hair in swimming or with the shampoo that contains surfactant.Here can use any shampoo that is suitable for cleaning hair.Compositions of the present invention comprised suitable surfactant generally has the hydrophobic chain of the about 8-22 of a length carbon atom, and can be selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, amphoteric ionic surfactant and their mixture.

Anionic surfactant

The suitable anionic surfactant that compositions comprised that is used for this method; comprise alkyl sulfate; the alkyl sulfate of ethoxylation; alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate; methyl-acyl taurine salt; the fatty acyl group glycinate; the N-acyl glutamate; acyl isethinate; alkyl sulfo succinate; the alkyl ethoxy sulfosuccinate; α-alpha-sulfonated fatty acid; their salt and/or ester; alkyl ethoxy carboxylate; alkyl phosphate; ethoxylated alkyl phosphate ester; the alkyl sodium sulfate ester; acyl sarcosinates; fatty acid/protein condensation substance, and their mixture.The alkyl of these surfactants/acyl chain length is C ₁₂-C ₂₂, preferred C ₁₂-C ₁₈, more preferably C ₁₂-C ₁₄

Nonionic surfactant

The compositions that is used for this method can also comprise water-soluble nonionic type surfactant.This class surfactant comprises: C ₁₂-C ₁₄Fatty acid one glycollic amide and diglycollic amide, Olestra surfactant and polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants, its general formula is as follows:

According to the preferred N-alkyl of following formula, N-alkoxyl or N-acyloxy, polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants, be such surfactant, wherein R ₈Be C ₅-C ₃₁Alkyl, preferred C ₆-C ₁₉Alkyl (alkyl and alkenyl or their mixture that comprise straight chain and side chain); R ₉Be typically hydrogen, C ₁-C ₈Alkyl or hydroxy alkyl, preferable methyl, or suc as formula R ¹-O-R ²Group, R wherein ¹Be C ₂-C ₈Alkyl (alkyl that comprises straight chain, side chain and cyclic (comprising aryl)), and preferred C ₂-C ₄Alkenyl, R ²Be C ₁-C ₈Straight chain, side chain and cyclic (comprising aryl and oxygen alkyl) alkyl, and preferred C ₁-C ₄Alkyl, special preferable methyl or phenyl.Z ₂Be polyhydroxy alkyl part or its alkoxylate (preferred ethoxylation or propoxylation) derivant, this polyhydroxy alkyl partly has linear hydrocarbyl chain, is connected directly to few 2 (during glyceraldehyde) or at least 3 hydroxyls (during other reducing sugar) on the chain.Z ₂Preferably be obtained from the reducing sugar in the reductive amination process, most preferably Z ₂Be shrink glycosyl (glycityl).Suitable reducing sugar comprises glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose, mannose and xylose, and glyceraldehyde.High glucose corn syrup, high-fructose corn syrup and high malt sugar corn syrup, and above-mentioned monosaccharide all can be used as raw material.These corn syrup can obtain Z over the ground ₂The saccharic composition mixture.Should be appreciated that this does not get rid of other suitable raw material.Preferably, Z ₂Be selected from :-CH ₂-(CHOH) _n-CH ₂OH ,-CH (CH ₂OH)-(CHOH) _N-1-CH ₂OH ,-CH ₂(CHOH) ₂(CHOR ＇) CHOH-CH ₂OH, n is the 1-5 integer of (containing 1 and 5) here, R ＇ is hydrogen or cyclic monosaccharide or polysaccharide, and their alkoxy derivative.As mentioned above, most preferably wherein n is 4 shrink glycosyl, and concrete is exactly-CH ₂-(CHOH) ₄-CH ₂OH.

Most preferred polyhydroxy fatty acid amide has formula R ₈(CO) N (CH ₃) CH ₂(CHOH) ₄CH ₂OH, wherein R ₈Be C ₆-C ₁₉Straight chained alkyl or kiki alkenyl group.In the chemical compound of above-mentioned formula, R ₈-CO-N＜can be, for example, coconut oleoyl amine, stearmide, oleamide, lauramide, myristamide, decyl amide, palmitamide, Adeps Bovis seu Bubali amide etc.

Here used suitable oily deutero-nonionic surfactant, comprise and water misciblely deriving and the softening agent (emollients) that comes, as the triglyceride that embeds polyglycol chain, monoglyceride or two glyceride, polyethoxylated wool grease and the ethoxylation butter derivant of ethoxylation by animals and plants.Here used oily deutero-nonionic surfactant preferably has a class of following general formula:

Wherein n is about 5-200, preferably about 20-100, more preferably from about 30-85; Wherein R contains the aliphatic group of average carbon atom number for about 5-20, and preferred average carbon atom number is the aliphatic group of about 7-18.

The oil ﹠ fat of the ethoxylation that this class is suitable, comprise following polyethyleneglycol derivative: glyceryl cocoate, caproin, caprylin, tallow acid glyceride, tripalmitin, tristerin, glyceryl laurate ester, olein, ricinoleic acid glyceride, and the glyceryl fatty ester that derives from triglyceride, as Petiolus Trachycarpi oil, almond oil and Semen Maydis oil, preferred tallow acid glyceride and glyceryl cocoate.

Here preferably use the C9-C15 fatty alcohol nonionic surfactant of polyethylene glycol groups polyethoxylated, every mole surfactant on average contains 5-50 the ethyleneoxy of having an appointment.

The C of the polyethylene glycol groups polyethoxylated that is suitable for here ₉-C ₁₅Fatty alcohol nonionic surfactant comprises C ₉-C ₁₁Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether (Pareth)-3, C ₉-C ₁₁Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-4, C ₉-C ₁₁Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-5, C ₉-C ₁₁Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-6, C ₉-C ₁₁Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-7, C ₉-C ₁₁Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-8, C ₁₁-C ₁₅Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-3, C ₁₁-C ₁₅Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-4, C ₁₁-C ₁₅Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-5, C ₁₁-C ₁₅Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-6, C ₁₁-C ₁₅Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-7, C ₁₁-C ₁₅Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-8, C ₁₁-C ₁₅Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-9, C ₁₁-C ₁₅Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-10, C ₁₁-C ₁₅Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-11, C ₁₁-C ₁₅Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-12, C ₁₁-C ₁₅Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-13, C ₁₁-C ₁₅Alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-14.The commodity of Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) 40 castor oil hydrogenated are called Cremophor (RTM), can obtain from BASF; The trade name of Polyethylene Glycol 7 glyceryl cocoate and Polyethylene Glycol 20 glyceryl laurate esters is respectively Cetiol (RTM) HE and Lamacit (RTM) GML20, can obtain from Henkel; C ₉-C ₁₁The commodity of alkyl polyoxyethylene ether-8 are called Dobanol (RTM) 91-8, can obtain from Shell company.Here preferably use the polyglycol ether of 16/stearyl alcohol, as 16/octadecyl polyoxyethylene ether (Ceteareth) 25 that BASF provides, commodity are called CremaphorA25.

Here, the non-ionic surface active agent that derives from composite plant fat also is suitable for, and this plant fat extracts from shea (Butryrospermum Karkii Kotschy).Equally, the ethoxylated derivative of Fructus Mangifera Indicae (Mango), cocoa (Cocoa), illipe butter (Illipe butter) also can be used for compositions of the present invention.Although these are in the ethoxylated non-ionic surface active agent apoplexy due to endogenous wind, should be known in that some part wherein can still be the vegetable oil of non-ethoxylatedization or fat.

What other was suitable derives and next non-ionic surface active agent from oil, comprises the ethoxylated derivative of following oil: almond oil, Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, Testa oryzae oil, wheat germ oil, oleum lini, Jojoba oil, Apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, Petiolus Trachycarpi fruit oil, pistachio oil, Oleum sesami, Oleum Brassicae campestris, thorn juniper oil, Semen Maydis oil, Semen Persicae oil, seed of Papaver somniferum L. powder, Oleum Pini, Oleum Ricini, soybean oil, American Avocado Tree oil, safflower oil, Oleum Cocois, hazelnut oil, olive oil, Oleum Vitis viniferae, sunflower seed oil.

Amphoteric surfactant

Be applicable to the amphoteric surfactant in this method compositions for use, comprise:

(a) the imidazoles surfactant of formula (VII) R wherein ₁Be C ₇-C ₂₂Alkyl or alkenyl, R ₂Be hydrogen or CH ₂Z, each Z are CO independently ₂M or CH ₂CO ₂M, and M is hydrogen, alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or alkanol ammonium, and/or the ammonium derivative of formula (VIII):

Wherein, R ₁, R ₂Identical with Z with top definition; (b) the amino-alkane acid (salt) of formula (IX)

R ₁NH (CH ₂) _nCO ₂The imino-diacetic alkane salt of M formula (X)

R ₁N[(CH ₂) _nCO ₂M] ₂And the imino group multichain alkane salt of formula (XI)

Wherein, m, n, p and q are the numbers of 1-4, R ₁From above-mentioned definition, select independently with M; And

(c) their mixture.

Can buy suitable (a) type amphoteric surfactant on the market, commodity Miranol by name and Empigen, and know that they comprise the complex mixture of various materials.Although the CTFA cosmetic ingredient dictionary third edition has been pointed out non-annularity structure (VIII), simultaneously also point out other constitutional isomer (R wherein for the 4th edition ₂Be that oxygen connects but not nitrogen connects), but traditionally, Miranol is described as the have general formula structure of (VII).In fact, the complex mixture of ring-type or non-annularity material all may exist, and for for the purpose of the integrity, two kinds of definition have here all provided.But the preferred here material that uses is non-annular material.

The example of (a) type amphoteric surfactant that suits comprises formula (XII) and/or chemical compound (XIII), wherein R ₁Be C ₈H ₁₇(especially iso-octyl), C ₉H ₁₉And C ₁₁H ₂₃Alkyl, preferred especially R ₁Be C ₉H ₁₉, Z is CO ₂M, R ₂It is the chemical compound of hydrogen; Preferred especially R ₁Be C ₁₁H ₂₃, Z is CO ₂M, R ₂Be CH ₂CO ₂The chemical compound of M; Also preferred especially R ₁Be C ₁₁H ₂₃, Z is CO ₂M, R ₂It is the chemical compound of hydrogen.

In the CTFA name, be applicable to that material of the present invention comprises: cocoyl both sexes carbonyl propionic acid salt, cocoyl both sexes carbonyl propionic acid, particularly cocoyl both sexes acetate and cocoyl both sexes diacetin (other, as to be called cocoyl both sexes carbonylamino acetate).Concrete commercially available prod comprises those that sell with following trade name: Ampholak7TX (sodium carbonyl methyl tallow gathers propyl group amine), Empigen CDL 60 and CDR 60 (Albright; Wilson), Miranol H2M Conc.Miranol C2M Conc.N.P., Miranol Czm Conc.O.P., Miranol C2M SF, Miranol CMSpecial (Rhone-Poulenc), Alkateric 2CIB (Alkaril Chemicals), Amphoterge W-2 (Lonza, Inc.), Monateric CDX-38, Monateric CSH-32 (Mona Industries), Rewoteric AM-2C (Rewo Chemical Group), and Schercotic MS-2 (ScherChemicals).Be applicable to the example of this amphoteric surfactant, comprise that also Octoxynol-1 (RTM) is polyoxyethylene (a 1) octyl phenyl ether, Nonoxynol-4 (RTM) is that polyoxyethylene (4) nonylplenyl ether and Nonoxynol-9 are polyoxyethylene (9) nonylplenyl ether.

Be appreciated that, a large amount of commercially available such amphoteric surfactantes are with the form manufacturing of electric neutrality complex and sale, for example, with have hydroxyl counter or form complex, especially sulfonation C with anion sulfate or sulfosalt surfactant ₈-C ₁₈Alcohol, ethoxylated alcohol or C ₈-C ₁₈This type of acyl glyceride.It shall yet further be noted that the concentration of amphoteric surfactant here and weight ratio based on not compound surfactant, any anion surfactant equilibrium ion all is counted as the part of whole anionic surfactant constituent contents.

The example of preferred type (b) amphoteric surfactant, comprise poly-carboxymethyl amine of N-alkyl polytrimethylene and salt thereof, sell by Berol Nobel, the salt of commodity Ampholak X07 by name and Ampholak7CX, especially tri ethanol ammonium salt and N-lauryl-Beta-alanine and N-lauryl-imino-diacetic propanoic acid.This material is sold by Henkel and Rhone-Poulenc, and trade name is respectively Deriphat and Mirataine.

Zwitterionic surfactant

Be fit to be contained in the auxiliary zwitterionic surfactant of water solublity in this method composition therefor, comprise formula R ₅R ₆R ₇N ⁺(CH ₂) _nCO ₂The amido betaine of the alkyl betaine of M and following facial (XII): Wherein, R ₅Be C ₁₁-C ₂₂Alkyl or alkenyl, R ₆And R ₇Be C independently ₁-C ₃Alkyl, M is hydrogen, alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and alkanol ammonium, n, m are the numbers of 1-4.Preferred betanin comprises: cocamidopropyl propyl-dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauroyl amido propyl-dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine and Tego betanin (RTM).

Be fit to be contained in the auxiliary sulfobetaines surfactant of water solublity in the compositions of the present invention, comprise facial (XIII) alkyl sulfobetaines down: Wherein, R ₁Be C ₇-C ₂₂Alkyl or alkenyl, R ₂And R ₃Be C independently ₁-C ₃Alkyl, M is hydrogen, alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and alkanol ammonium, n, m are the numbers of 1-4.Here preferably use cocamidopropyl third hydroxyl sulfo betaine.

Be fit to be contained in the water solublity assisted oxidation amine surfactant in the compositions of the present invention, comprise formula R ₅R ₆R ₇The amide groups amine oxide of the alkyl amine oxide of NO and following facial (XIV):

Wherein, R ₅Be C ₁₁-C ₂₂Alkyl or alkenyl, R ₆And R ₇Be C independently ₁-C ₃Alkyl, M is hydrogen, alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and alkanol ammonium, n, m are the numbers of 1-4.Preferred amine oxide comprises cocamidopropyl propyl group amine oxide, lauryl dimethyl amine oxide and myristyl dimethyl amine oxide.

Optional step

After the moistening step, this method can comprise one or more optional implementation steps in addition.These other steps can comprise: handle hair, handle hair and/or with containing the compositions-treated hair of filtering the ultraviolet agent with the care composition that also contains the agent of filter ultraviolet with care composition.

Here, be fit to any filter ultraviolet agent of topical application, all be applicable to herein conditioning, hair washing or filter ultraviolet compositions.Authorized people's such as Haffey U.S.5087445 on February 11st, 1992; Decembers in 1991 were authorized people's such as Turner U.S.No.5073372 on the 17th; Decembers 17 in 1991 are authorized people's such as Turner U.S.5073371; And people such as Segarin, at the VIII chapter, 189 et seq. disclose a large amount of filter ultraviolet agent among the Cosmetics Science and Technology.Be best suited for the present composition in these filter ultraviolet agent; be selected from the 2-ethylhexyl right-Methoxycinnamate; 2-ethylhexyl N; N-dimethyl Para-Aminobenzoic ester; Para-Aminobenzoic; 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid; 2-cyano group-3; 3-diphenylacrylate-2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene); hydroxy benzoic acid (oxybenzone); the high menthyl ester of salicylic acid (homomenthyl salicylate); ethylhexyl salicylate; 4; 4 ＇-methoxyl group-tert-butyl group dibenzoyl methane; 4-isopropyl diphenyl formoxyl methane; the inferior benzyl Camphora of 3-; 3-(the inferior benzyl of 4-methyl) Camphora; titanium dioxide; zinc oxide; silicon dioxide; ferrum oxide; p-methoxycinnamic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite (Parsol MCX); 3-(4-methylbenzene methylene) Camphora (Eusolex6300); 2-cyano group-3,3-diphenylacrylate-2-Octyl Nitrite (Octocrylene); PAROSOL 1789 (Parsol 1789); and their mixture.

Authorize the U.S.4937370 of Sabatelli June 26 nineteen ninety; Reach the U.S.4999186 that authorized people such as Sabatelli on March 12nd, 1991 and also disclose other useful filter ultraviolet agent.Have two tangible chromophories in the individual molecule of wherein disclosed filter ultraviolet agent, these two chromophories demonstrate different ultraviolet radiation absorption spectrums.One of them chromophore mainly has absorption in the UVB radiation scope, and another has strong absorption in the UNA radiation scope.Compare with the filter ultraviolet agent of routine, the effect of these filter ultraviolet agent is higher, uv absorption (scope) is wider, dermal osmosis is lower, effect lasting (time) is longer.In these filter ultraviolet agent; more preferred example comprises and is selected from following filter ultraviolet agent: 2; the 4-N of 4-dihydroxy benaophenonel; N-(2-ethylhexyl) methylamino benzoate, has the 4-N of 4-hydroxy benzophenone acyl group methane; the 4-N of N-(2-ethylhexyl) methylamino benzoate, 2-hydroxyl-4-(2-hydroxy ethoxy) benzophenone; the 4-N of N-(2-ethylhexyl) methylamino benzoate, 4-(2-hydroxy ethoxy) dibenzoyl methane; N-(2-ethylhexyl) methylamino benzoate, and their mixture.

Other composition

For make these compositionss beauty treatment and attractive in appearance more acceptant, perhaps make these compositionss have other use benefit, this method compositions for use can comprise many suitable components that other is chosen wantonly.These conventional optional components are known for those of ordinary skills' right and wrong Changshu.

A variety of other one-tenth can be dispensed in this compositions, these other components comprise: other conditioner; The fixing polymer of hair; Extra thickening agent and suspending agent are as xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxy ethyl cellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, starch and starch derivatives; Viscosity modifier is as the methanol amide such as the cocoyl single ethanol amide of long-chain fatty acid; The crystal form suspending agent; Pearling agent is as glycol distearate; Antiseptic is as benzyl alcohol, methyl butex, propylparaben and imidazolidinyl urea; Polyvinyl alcohol; Ethanol; PH adjusts agent, as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; Salt is usually as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; Coloring agent is as FD﹠amp; C or D﹠amp; In the C dyestuff any; Hair oxidation (bleaching) agent is as hydrogen peroxide, hyperbromic acid salt and persulfate; The hair Reducing agent is as the mercaptoethanol hydrochlorate; Spice; Chelating agen is as disodiumedetate; And polymeric plasticizer, as glycerol, diisobutyl adipate, butyl stearate and propylene glycol; Antioxidant is as tocopherol acetas, butylated hydroxytoluene.

In addition, the conditioner that is applicable to this is the liquid polyol carboxylate.These polyol esters derive from polyhydric alcohol and one or more carboxylic acids, that is to say that these esters comprise a part that derives from polyhydric alcohol, also comprise a part or many parts of deriving from carboxylic acid.These carboxylates also can be called the liquid polyol fatty acid ester, because for those of ordinary skills, term " carboxylic acid " and " fatty acid " can often exchange use mutually.Here employed term " liquid state " is meant a kind of fluid, and this fluid under the environment (about 25 ℃ of atmospheric pressure), is that obviously (for naked eyes) can be mobile around.

Be applicable to the polyester of this liquid polyol, comprise some polyhydric alcohol (particularly saccharide, sugar alcohol or sugar ether), these polyhydric alcohol are at least by the esterification of two fatty acid group institutes.But, but the preferred polyhydric alcohols raw material will have the hydroxyl of 4 esterifications at least.The example of preferred polyol is a saccharide, comprises monosaccharide, disaccharide, sugar alcohol or sugar ether.The example that contains the monosaccharide of four hydroxyls is xylose and arabinulose and is derived and the sugar alcohol that comes by xylose promptly have the xylitol of 5 hydroxyls.Because monosaccharide-erythrose contains 3 hydroxyls, and derived and next sugar alcohol by erythrose, promptly erythritol contains 4 hydroxyls, so its also is fit in practice of the present invention.The suitable monosaccharide that contains 5 hydroxyls is galactose, fructose and sorbose.By the sucrose hydrolysis product, and glucose and sorbose derive and the sugar alcohol that comes, and for example Sorbitol contains 6 hydroxyls, therefore also suits.The example of available two sugar polyols comprises maltose, lactose and sucrose, and they all contain 8 hydroxyls.In addition, sugar ether also is fit in the practice of the present invention, as sorbitan.

Used polyhydric alcohol in this liquid polyhydric alcohol ester preferably has about 4-12 hydroxyl, more preferably has about 4-11 hydroxyl, most preferably from about the polyhydric alcohol of 4-8 hydroxyl.For preparation is applicable to this polyester, preferred polyhydric alcohols is selected from erythritol, xylitol, Sorbitol, dextrose plus saccharose.Sucrose most preferably.

The preferred polyhydric alcohols raw material has 4 hydroxyls at least, and this fatty acid has about 8-22 carbon atom by the esterification of fatty acid institute must at least 2 in these hydroxyls, preferably about 8-14 carbon atom.The example of such fatty acid comprises: sad, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, Palmic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, castor oil acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, mountain Yu acid and erucic acid; They can be saturated or unsaturated, comprise their position isomer and geometric isomer.But, in order to prepare this liquid polyesters that is applicable to this, sneak into the fatty acid in the polyester molecule, must be unsaturated fatty acid, saturated short-chain fatty acid or their mixture at least about half.

Here, be suitable as the liquid polyol fatty acid polyester of conditioner, must contain at least 2 fatty acid ester groups.Hydroxyl groups need not be no more than 2 nonesterified hydroxyls but contain in the preferred polyester all by the esterification of fatty acid institute.Whole hydroxyls of polyhydric alcohol are most preferred by the esterification of fatty acid institute basically, and promptly polyhydric alcohol is all esterified basically.The fatty acid of esterification polyol molecule can be a fatty acid of the same race, it also can be the mixture of multiple fatty acid, but as pointing out above, must there be the unsaturated acids ester group of quantum and/or saturated short chain acids ester group, to provide mobile.

For verifying above-mentioned viewpoint, the sucrose di fatty acid ester is suitable, but is not best, because it has the no esterification hydroxyl more than 2.Sucrose six fatty acid esters are preferred, because the no esterification hydroxyl that sucrose six fatty acid esters have is no more than 2.Hydroxyl wherein comprises liquid sucrose eight substituted fatty acid esters all by the chemical compound of fatty acid institute esterification, is preferred.

It is as follows to be applicable to that the present invention contains the indefiniteness example of specific liquid polyol fatty acid polyester of 2 fatty acid ester groups at least: the glucose dioleate, the glucose diester of soybean oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid (unsaturated), mixing soya beans oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid mannose diester, oleic acid galactose diester, linoleic acid arabinose diester, xylose dilinoleic acid ester, the sorbitol dioleate, the sucrose dioleate, the glucose trioleate, glucose three esters of soybean oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid (unsaturated), mannose three esters of mixing soya beans oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid, oleic acid galactose three esters, linoleic acid arabinose three esters, xylose three linoleates, sorbitol olein, the sucrose trioleate, glucose four oleates, the glucose tetra-ester of soybean oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid (unsaturated), mixing soya beans oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid mannose four esters, oleic acid galactose four esters, linoleic acid arabinose four esters, xylose four linoleates, galactose five oleates, sorbitol four oleates, sorbitol six esters of unsaturated soybean oil or cottonseed oil fatty acid, xylitol five oleates, sucrose four oleates, sucrose five oleates, sucrose six oleates, sucrose seven oleates, sucrose eight oleates, and their mixture.

The whole fusing point that preferred liquid polyol polyester of the present invention is had is lower than about 30 ℃, preferably is lower than about 27.5 ℃, more preferably less than about 25 ℃.Measure total bulk melting point that announce in this place with differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).Terminology used here " total bulk melting point (complete melting point) " is meant with the measured fusing point of well-known differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) technology.In the temperature of baseline (promptly than hot line), be exactly whole fusing point with the intersection point place of endothermic peak trailing edge place tangent line.Scanning speed during the whole fusing point of measurement used in the present invention is 5 ℃ of per minutes.Authorize on April 26th, 1994 among people's such as Letton the US-A-5306514 and more fully described the technology of measuring whole fusing point.

Being applicable to this exemplary liquid polyol carboxylate, is poly-soya fatty acid ester of sucrose or the poly-cottonseed oil fatty acid ester of sucrose, can be from Procter﹠amp; Gamble obtains.

The several different methods that can know by those of ordinary skills, preparation is applicable to this polyol fatty acid polyesters.These methods comprise: use various catalyst, allow polyhydric alcohol and fatty acid methyl ester, ethyl ester or glyceride carry out ester exchange; With fat acyl chloride polyhydric alcohol is carried out acidylate; With fatty acid anhydride polyhydric alcohol is carried out acidylate; And polyhydric alcohol is carried out acidylate with fatty acid itself.Referring to US-A-3463669 (authorizing Rizzi on June 15th, 1976) and US-A-4517360 (1985 authorize Volpenhein).

Here, shampoo, conditioning and filter ultraviolet compositions all can be Emulsion, cream, gel or foamy form.

Embodiment

Embodiment 11. is as the part of daily cleaning mode, with Pantene (RTM) the conditioner pretreatment dyed hair of selling in the market.2. wash pretreated hair with Pantene (RTM) shampoo of selling in the market then, and the water flushing.

Embodiment 21. uses the care composition of surface compositions (A) down, the pretreatment dyed hair as the part of daily cleaning mode; Component (weight %) oleyl alcohol 1.00PEG-7M ¹2.00 polydimethylsiloxane ²4.20 polyorganosiloxane resin ³0.25 pentapheneyl trimethyl trisiloxanes ⁴0.38DL pantothenylol 0.04 pantothenylol base (Panthenyl) ethylether 0.34 spice 0.30Kathon (RTM) CG ⁵0.03 spermol 1.20 stearyl alcohols 0.80 two tallow alkyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides 0.75 (stearoyl amido propyl group) dimethyl amine 1.00 glycerol monostearate 0.25 citric acid 0.19 water adds to 100 ¹PEG-7M is a Polyethylene Glycol, and wherein the meansigma methods of n is about 7000, can obtain from Union Carbide on the market, and commodity are called Polyox WSR (RTM) N-750. ²The mixture of 85% D5 annular dimethyl polysiloxane and 15% polydimethylsiloxane glue (weight average molecular weight is about 400000-600000). ³Poly-trimethyl hydrosilyl groups silicate-add polysiloxanes product-SS4320 of General Electric with the solution that is added to 50 in the decamethylcyclopentaandoxane (weight) %. ⁴DowCorning 750, and Dow Corning company (Midland, MI, USA) ⁵Methyl chloride for isothiazoline (with) the methyl isothiazoline, a kind of antiseptic is by Rohm ﹠amp; (Philadelphia, PA USA) provide in Hass company.2. wash pretreated hair with Pantene (RTM) overtemperature of selling in the market and shampoo then, and the water flushing.

After embodiment 3 dyeing, use Pantene (RTM) the conditioner pretreatment of selling in the market to dye the hair of color, then water flushing hair.

Pantene (RTM) conditioner that embodiment 41. usefulness are sold in the market, the hair of color was dyed in pretreatment.2. by swimming, pretreated hair is exposed to water.

Embodiment 51. is as the part of daily cleaning mode, with Oil of Ulay (RTM) the activated water gel pretreatment dyed hair of selling in the market.2. wash pretreated hair with Pantene (RTM) shampoo of selling in the market then, and the water flushing.

Embodiment 61. is as the part of daily cleaning mode, with Pantene (RTM) the conditioner pretreatment dyed hair of selling in the market.2. wash pretreated hair with Pantene (RTM) shampoo of selling in the market then, and the water flushing.3. then with Pantene (RTM) conditioner of selling in the market, nurse one's health the hair that washed.Embodiment 71. is as the part of daily cleaning mode, with the care composition pretreatment dyed hair of prescription (A).2. wash pretreated hair with Pantene (RTM) overtemperature of selling in the market and shampoo then, and the water flushing.3. then with care composition, nurse one's health the hair that washed with prescription (A).

Embodiment 81. is as the part of daily cleaning mode, with Oil of Ulay (RTM) the activated water gel pretreatment dyed hair of selling in the market.2. wash pretreated hair with Pantene (RTM) shampoo of selling in the market then, and the water flushing.3. use the care composition of surface compositions down, the hair that conditioning was washed then; Component (weight %) oleyl alcohol 0.25PEG-7M ¹1.00 polydimethylsiloxane ²4.20 polyorganosiloxane resin ³0.25 pentapheneyl trimethyl trisiloxanes ⁴0.38DL pantothenylol 0.04 pantothenylol base (Panthenyl) ethylether 0.34 spice 0.35Kathon (RTM) CG ⁵0.03 cetanol 1.80 stearyl alcohols 1.20 two tallow alkyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides 0.75 (stearoyl amido propyl group) dimethyl amine 1.00 glyceryl monostearates 0.25 citric acid 0.22 hydroxyethylcellulose 0.25 water adds to 100¹PEG-7M is a Polyethylene Glycol, and wherein the meansigma methods of n is about 7000, can obtain from Union Carbide on the market, and commodity are called PolyoxWSR (RTM) N-750. ²The mixture of 85% D5 annular dimethyl polysiloxane and 15% polydimethylsiloxane glue (weight average molecular weight is about 400000-600000). ³Poly-trimethyl hydrosilyl groups silicate-add polysiloxanes product-SS4320 of GeneralElectric with the solution that is added to 50 in the decamethylcyclopentaandoxane (weight) %. ⁴Dow Corning 750, and Dow Corning company (Midland, MI, USA) ⁵Methyl chloride for isothiazoline (with) the methyl isothiazoline, a kind of antiseptic is by Rohm ﹠amp; (Philadelphia, PA USA) provide in Hass company.

Embodiment 91. is as the part of daily cleaning mode, with Pantene (RTM) the conditioner pretreatment dyed hair of selling in the market.2. then with Pantene (RTM) shampoo of selling in the market, wash pretreated hair, and the water flushing.3. then with Pantene (RTM) conditioner of selling in the market, nurse one's health the hair that washed, and the water flushing.4. use the filter ultraviolet compositions of surface compositions down then, handle hair; Component (weight) % octyl methoxycinnamate 6.00 glycerol 6.00 zinc oxide 3.00 2-Methylpentadecane 2.00 isopropyl palmitates, 2.00 polyacrylamides and C ₁₃-C ₁₄Isoparaffin and dodecyl APEO-4 (Srpigel 305) 1.55 octadecyl APEO-21 0.90 cetanols, 0.79 stearyl alcohol 0.79 docosyl alcohol, 0.83 dimethyl silicone polymer and dimethiconol (trade mark DC-2 1068) 0.75SEFA Cottonate 0.50 tocopherol acetic acid esters 0.20DMDM hydantoins and 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate (Glydant Plus) 0.20 spices MOD S/PCV 174,5/7 0.20 disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetates 0.10 octadecyl APEO-2 0.10 diethanol amine-oil base APEO-3 phosphoesterase 30 .06 water add to 100

Embodiment 101. uses the care composition pretreatment dyed hair of surface compositions down as the part of daily cleaning mode; Component (weight %) oleyl alcohol 1.00PEG-14M ¹0.25 polydimethylsiloxane ²4.20 polyorganosiloxane resin ³0.25 pentapheneyl trimethyl trisiloxanes ⁴0.38DL pantothenylol 0.04 pantothenylol base (Panthenyl) ethylether 0.34 spice 0.35Kathon (RTM) CG ⁵0.03 cetanol 1.80 stearyl alcohols 1.20 two tallow alkyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides 0.75 (stearoyl amido propyl group) dimethyl amine 1.00 glyceryl monostearates 0.25 citric acid 0.22 hydroxyethylcellulose 0.25 water adds to 100¹PEG-14M is a Polyethylene Glycol, and wherein the meansigma methods of n is about 14000, can obtain from Union Carbide on the market, and commodity are called PolyoxWSR (RTM) N-3000. ²The mixture of 85% D5 annular dimethyl polysiloxane and 15% polydimethylsiloxane glue (mean molecule quantity is about 400000-600000). ³Poly-trimethyl hydrosilyl groups silicate-add polysiloxanes product-SS4320 of GeneralElectric with the solution that is added to 50 in the decamethylcyclopentaandoxane (weight) %. ⁴Dow Corning 750, and Dow Corning company (Midland, MI, USA) ⁵Methyl chloride for isothiazoline (with) the methyl isothiazoline, a kind of antiseptic is by Rohm ﹠ amp; (Philadelphia, PA USA) provide in Hass company.2. then with Pantene (RTM) shampoo of selling in the market, wash pretreated hair, and the water flushing.3. then with Pantene (RTM) conditioner of selling in the market, nurse one's health the hair that washed, and the water flushing.4. then with Pantene (RTM) the clear liquid hair spray of selling in the market (Serum Spray), handle the hair. here example of used other composition (containing the ultraviolet agent of filter) comprising:conditioning adds to 100Polyquatermium37 with eruption glue; Propane diols 1.000 dicaprylates/dicaprate; -1-6／ ( PVP／VA ) 0．500DL- ( 10％ ) , ( 90％ ) 0．300 0．500-4 0．450DMDM 0．204 0．110Polvsorbate 80 0．063 0．140 0．010 0．003-5M 0．010-4 0．010 0．030 100-328％ 28．40238．5％ 18．182 2．00040／60 0．900Tricedeceth-790％ 0．560Polyquaternium-10 0．150 0．800DL 0．054DLPantylB 0．066-7860％ 4．667-30 3．500 0．250DMDM55％ 0．20087％ 0．100PVD 1．041 0．650 0．03-4 0．1 0．1 10015／85／ 4．2000 1．0000 0．9600Quaternium18 0．7500 0．6400PEG-2M 0．5000 ( Polawax／Lipowax ) 0．5000 0．4000PantylB 0．2500 0．2500 0．2500 0．2500DMDM 0．2000EDTA 0．1000 0．1300 0．3000 0．1000 0．1000 0．0300 ( Intensive Conditioner ) 10015／85／ 4．3700 2．0000L- 0．6400 2．5000 4．5000 0．4000PantylB 0．2500DMDM 0．2000 ( EDTA ) 0．1000 0．3000 0．1000 0．1000 0．0300 100 4．0000 1．0000 ( PVP ) 0．5000-60 0．5000 0．3800DMDM ( 0．55％ ) 0．1375 ( 87％ ) 0．1131Pantethine 0．1000 0．0100 0．1000 ( 85％ ) 0．451 0．0100 0．03 1．00-4 0．05

Among superincumbent whole embodiment, fade and/or the incidence rate of variable color is lowered or has eliminated, thereby prolonged the time between twice dyeing.

Claims

1. handle mammalian hair to alleviate or to prevent to fade and/or the beauty method of variable color for one kind, comprising:

(a) with a kind of compositions-treated hair, said composition contains a kind of hydrophobic type and/or cationic conditioner; Subsequently

(b) moistening hair.

2. according to the beauty method of claim 1, wherein the hair of step (a) wets.

3. according to the beauty method of claim 1 or 2, comprise an other step (c), promptly finish after (b) step, with a kind of compositions-treated hair that contains conditioner.

4. according to the beauty method of one of claim 1-3, comprise an other step (d), promptly finish (b) or (c) after the step, with a kind of compositions-treated hair that contains the agent of filter ultraviolet.

5. according to the beauty method of one of claim 1-4, wherein step (a) or (c) in contain conditioner compositions supply with foamy form.

6. according to the beauty method of one of claim 1-5, wherein step (a) or (c) in contain conditioner compositions also contain the agent of a kind of filter ultraviolet.

7. according to the beauty method of one of claim 1-6, wherein this conditioner is selected from cationic surfactant, cation type polymer, non-volatile polysiloxanes, Y 7175, nonvolatile hydrocarbon, saturated C ₁₄-C ₂₂Straight-chain fatty alcohol, fixed hydrocarbon ester and their mixture.

8. according to the beauty method of one of claim 1-7, wherein step (b) comprises with a kind of surface activator composition washing hair.

9. beauty method according to Claim 8, wherein the surfactant that this surface activator composition comprised is selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, amphoteric ionic surfactant.