CN118302179A - Cosmetic composition for reducing the oiliness and shine of the skin and use of the same - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition for reducing the oiliness and shine of the skin and use of the same Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN118302179A CN118302179A CN202280074208.0A CN202280074208A CN118302179A CN 118302179 A CN118302179 A CN 118302179A CN 202280074208 A CN202280074208 A CN 202280074208A CN 118302179 A CN118302179 A CN 118302179A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- zinc
- cosmetic composition
- vitamin
- mixtures
- skin
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 55
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- -1 zinc salt compound Chemical class 0.000 claims description 41
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- OWVLYQRCCIEOPF-QHTZZOMLSA-L zinc;(2s)-5-oxopyrrolidine-2-carboxylate Chemical compound [Zn+2].[O-]C(=O)[C@@H]1CCC(=O)N1.[O-]C(=O)[C@@H]1CCC(=O)N1 OWVLYQRCCIEOPF-QHTZZOMLSA-L 0.000 claims description 8
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- CHJMFFKHPHCQIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc;octanoate Chemical class [Zn+2].CCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCC([O-])=O CHJMFFKHPHCQIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 7
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- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 7
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- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 7
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- 210000001061 forehead Anatomy 0.000 description 7
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- ZUFQODAHGAHPFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyridoxine hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.CC1=NC=C(CO)C(CO)=C1O ZUFQODAHGAHPFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- IKGXIBQEEMLURG-BKUODXTLSA-N rutin Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](C)O[C@@H]1OC[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](OC=2C(C3=C(O)C=C(O)C=C3OC=2C=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)=O)O1 IKGXIBQEEMLURG-BKUODXTLSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ALABRVAAKCSLSC-UHFFFAOYSA-N rutin Natural products CC1OC(OCC2OC(O)C(O)C(O)C2O)C(O)C(O)C1OC3=C(Oc4cc(O)cc(O)c4C3=O)c5ccc(O)c(O)c5 ALABRVAAKCSLSC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000005493 rutin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-M salicylate Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC=C1C([O-])=O YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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- 229910002027 silica gel Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- HBMJWWWQQXIZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon carbide Chemical compound [Si+]#[C-] HBMJWWWQQXIZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910010271 silicon carbide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000003377 silicon compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000003808 silyl group Chemical group [H][Si]([H])([H])[*] 0.000 description 1
- 238000006884 silylation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000004927 skin cell Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012798 spherical particle Substances 0.000 description 1
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- TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalene Natural products CC(=CCCC(=CCCC(=CCCC=C(/C)CCC=C(/C)CC=C(C)C)C)C)C TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sulfonate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)=O BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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- 239000003760 tallow Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003515 testosterones Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- ZQTYRTSKQFQYPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N trisiloxane Chemical compound [SiH3]O[SiH2]O[SiH3] ZQTYRTSKQFQYPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UEVAMYPIMMOEFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N trolamine salicylate Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO.OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O UEVAMYPIMMOEFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 150000003752 zinc compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
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- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
- A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
- A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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- A61K8/671—Vitamin A; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ester of vitamin A acid, ester of retinol, retinol, retinal
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- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
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- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Natural Medicines & Medicinal Plants (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Medical Informatics (AREA)
- Alternative & Traditional Medicine (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic composition capable of reducing oiliness and shine of skin. The cosmetic composition comprises at least one sebum secretion inhibiting compound, rosewood (Bixa Orellana) seed extract (annatto), at least one filler, and at least one vitamin. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for manufacturing products that reduce the oiliness and shine of the skin.
Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic composition capable of reducing the oiliness (oily or greasy, oiliness) and shine (shiny or shiny) of the skin. The cosmetic composition comprises at least one sebum secretion inhibitor containing zinc salt compound, rosewood (annatto, bixa Orellana) seed extract (annatto seed, urucum)), at least one filler and at least one vitamin. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for manufacturing products that reduce the oiliness and shine of the skin.
Background
Sebum is an oily substance secreted by sebaceous glands, which are spread almost over every surface of the body. Because of its unique composition, sebum seals moisture/humidity and prevents the skin from becoming excessively dry. It also has antibacterial properties and antifungal protection, making it the first barrier of the body against external infections.
It is known that the main determinant of skin oiliness is the amount of sebaceous gland secretion. Sebaceous glands are formed by cells that shrink nuclei and are located in the dermis. The cells drain their lipid content from their hair follicles onto the skin surface. This content is called "sebum" or tallow, and is therefore a whole body secretion, comprising 92-100% lipid (EBLING & ROOK, 1979).
Sebum secretion consists of several fats: triglycerides, free fatty acids, esterified waxes, squalene and cholesterol.
There are a greater number of glands in some areas of the skin, which are more bulky. These areas are the "T-areas" (which include forehead, nose and chin), back, chest, ears, armpits, genitals and scalp.
Oily skin is shiny, thick, with an enlarged funnel (pore) of the sebaceous gland follicle (especially in the seborrheic area), and has a tendency to develop acne (CUNLIFFE & COTTERILL, 1975). This clinical aspect is aesthetically unpleasant and this means that it is necessary to develop specific products for oily skin.
In particular, sebum production varies from person to person and depends on sex and age. When too much sebum is secreted, an unpleasant greasy appearance or a shiny face is observed. This excess sebum combined with dead skin cells may also clog pores, causing irritation and inflammation of the pores, leading to acne formation in the skin.
Most commercially available skin care or sun protection products are now used to control and balance oil in the skin to avoid sebum accumulation and acne.
In this sense, there is a need to develop cosmetic compositions that not only control oiliness immediately after application, but also reduce the generation of oiliness and shine of the skin, while providing soft and dry touch as well as a clean skin feel after application.
Thus, in view of the current need in the state of the art and to overcome their difficulties, the inventors of the present invention have developed a novel cosmetic composition which not only provides oily and shiny control immediately after application, but also is capable of controlling the oily and shiny development of the skin with continued use.
In other words, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has surprisingly proven to be effective in two roles: control oiliness and shine, and reduce sebum production from the skin during its use.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention exhibits oily and shiny control immediately after application, rapid absorption, long-lasting clean skin feel until the end of the day (12 hours clean skin feel), oily control throughout the day, non-oily skin feel, non-oily texture, clean feel and dry feel, and in particular, reduces sebum production of the skin under continuous use conditions.
The present inventors have thus successfully overcome the problems of the state of the art and have surprisingly found cosmetic compositions having the aforementioned technical advantages.
Disclosure of Invention
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) At least one sebum secretion inhibitor comprising a zinc salt compound;
(b) Rosewood seed extract (annatto);
(c) At least one filler; and
(D) At least one vitamin.
Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for manufacturing products that reduce the oiliness and shine of the skin.
Drawings
Fig. 1: clinical evaluation of the reduced oiliness of the cosmetic composition according to example 1 shows a statistically significant improvement in the shine/brightness (radiance) after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0).
Fig. 2: clinical evaluation of the reduced shine of the cosmetic composition according to example 1 shows statistically significant improvement in oiliness/feel after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0).
Fig. 3: through VisiaEvaluation of Brightness reduction of front and side images of face of subject performed in example 1 and use of the imagesImage evaluation of skin by software, wherein a decrease in the brightness of the cheek area was observed after 7 and 14 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0), and a trend of decrease in the brightness was also observed on the cheek area after 28 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0).
Fig. 4: through VisiaEvaluation of Brightness reduction of front and side images of the face of the subject performed in example 1 and use of the imagesImage evaluation of skin by software, wherein a decrease in the brightness of the forehead area was observed after 7 and 14 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0), and a trend of decrease in the brightness of the forehead area was also observed after 28 days of product use compared to (T0).
Fig. 5: through VisiaEvaluation of Brightness reduction of front and side images of the face of the subject performed in example 1 and use of the imagesImage evaluation of skin by software, wherein a decrease in the brightness of the full-face area was observed after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use, compared to the initial time point (T0).
Fig. 6: by passing throughSM 815 measured the oiliness instrument of example 1, with reduced oiliness observed after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0).
Fig. 7: by passing throughSF16+Vc 20plus oily instrument measurements performed on example 1 to analyze counts of oily spots, where statistically significantly higher oily spot counts were observed at 7 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0) and compared to 14 and 28 days of product use.
Fig. 8: by passing throughSF16+The oily instrument measurement performed on example 1 by Vc 20plus was used to analyze the percentage of oily areas, where the percentage of oily areas after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use was statistically significantly lower compared to the initial time point (T0), indicating a reduction in skin oiliness.
Fig. 9: by passing throughSF16+Oily instrument measurements of example 1 by Vc 20plus were performed to analyze the average spot size, wherein lower average spot sizes were also observed after 7, 14 and 17 days of product use, compared to the initial time point (T0), indicating a reduction in sebum spot size.
Fig. 10: by passing throughSF16+The oily instrument measurement of example 1 by Vc 20plus was performed to analyze the gradient of percentage oily area per second, with lower values observed after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0), indicating a reduction in sebum production rate.
Fig. 11: comparative evaluation of film form surface parameters (Gc) observed in example 9 (inventive composition) compared to example 8 (state of the art) shows that the inventive composition provides a statistically significantly higher film surface.
Fig. 12: at time point TH ammam, a comparative evaluation of the contrast gloss parameter (Gc) observed in example 9 (composition of the invention) compared to example 8 (state of the art) shows that the composition of the invention provides a lower shine after application.
Detailed Description
The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
(a) At least one sebum secretion inhibitor comprising a zinc salt compound;
(b) Rosewood seed extract (annatto);
(c) At least one filler selected from the group consisting of silylated silica (SILICA SILYLATE), silica, perlite, and mixtures thereof; and
(D) At least one vitamin selected from vitamin A, vitamin B complex (B complex), vitamin C, vitamin E and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the at least one sebum secretion inhibitor compound of the present invention is in the range of about 0.01 wt.% to about 5.0 wt.%, preferably about 0.05 wt.% to about 3.0 wt.%, more preferably about 0.1 wt.% to about 2.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one sebum secretion inhibitor comprising a zinc salt compound is selected from zinc salts of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid ) (zinc PCA), zinc sulfate, zinc acetate, zinc octoate, zinc oxide and mixtures thereof.
In a more preferred embodiment, the at least one sebum secretion inhibitor is a zinc salt of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (zinc PCA).
The amount of rosewood seed extract (annatto) of the present invention ranges from about 0.01 wt% to about 5.0 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 wt% to about 3.0 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 2.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
The rosewood seed extract (annatto) may be in liquid, solid, emulsion, gel or powder form. Furthermore, the rosewood seed extract (annatto) may be encapsulated or unencapsulated.
In a preferred embodiment, rosewood seed extract (annatto) refers to said extract in its pure form, or as a blend with a polysaccharide such as, but not limited to, maltodextrin or gum Arabic (acacia gum).
In a more preferred embodiment, the rosewood seed extract (annatto) of the present invention is a blend of rosewood seed extract (annatto) and maltodextrin. The amount of rosewood seed extract (annatto) in the blend ranges from about 30% to about 50% and the amount of maltodextrin in the blend ranges from about 50% to about 70% based on the total weight of the extract.
The amount of the at least one filler of the present invention ranges from about 0.01 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 7 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, at least one filler of the present invention is a silylated silica.
The amount of the at least one vitamin of the invention ranges from about 0.01 wt% to about 10.0 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 wt% to about 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, at least one vitamin of the invention is a vitamin of complex B, more specifically vitamin B3 (nicotinamide).
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one UV filter selected from the group of inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters and mixtures thereof.
In another preferred embodiment, the UV filter of the invention is an organic UV filter selected from the group of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, terephthal-ylene-di-camphorsulfonic acid (TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID), cresyl trazotrisiloxane (drometrizole trisiloxane), bis-ethylhexyl oxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) and mixtures thereof.
The amount of UV filter ranges from about 0.1 wt% to about 40.0 wt%, preferably from about 1.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention may be a sunscreen product exhibiting an SPF of 30, 50, 60, 70, 90 or 100.
In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be colored or colorless.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of a dry fluid, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, and can be used as a daily product for skin care or sun protection (sun protection) products.
Since the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one sebum secretion inhibitor containing a zinc salt compound, rosewood seed extract (annatto), at least one filler and at least one vitamin, the composition reduces oiliness and shine of the skin.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention surprisingly exhibits oily and shiny control of the skin immediately after application, rapid absorption, clean skin feel until the end of the day (12 hours clean skin feel), oily control throughout the day, non-oily skin feel, non-oily texture, clean feel and dry feel. Furthermore, the composition of the present invention is capable of reducing the oiliness and sebum production of the skin within seven days of use.
In another preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for the manufacture of a product (skin care or sun protection product) for reducing the oiliness and shine of the skin.
In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
a) About 0.01% to about 5.0% by weight of at least one sebum secretion inhibitor comprising a zinc salt compound selected from zinc salts of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (zinc PCA), zinc sulfate, zinc acetate, zinc octoate, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof;
(b) About 0.01% to about 5.0% by weight of rosewood seed extract (annatto);
(c) About 0.01% to about 20.0% by weight of at least one filler selected from the group consisting of silylated silica, perlite and mixtures thereof; and
(D) About 0.01% to about 10.0% by weight of at least one vitamin selected from the group consisting of vitamin a, B complex, vitamin C, vitamin E, and mixtures thereof.
In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
a) About 0.05% to about 3.0% by weight of at least one sebum secretion inhibitor comprising a zinc salt compound selected from zinc salts of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (zinc PCA), zinc sulfate, zinc acetate, zinc octoate, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof;
(b) About 0.1% to about 3.0% by weight of rosewood seed extract (annatto) and maltodextrin;
(c) About 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight of at least one filler selected from the group consisting of silylated silica, perlite and mixtures thereof; and
(D) About 0.1% to about 5.0% by weight of at least one vitamin selected from the group consisting of vitamin a, B complex, vitamin C, vitamin E, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise a UV filter and may be colored or colorless.
Method for producing the cosmetic composition according to the invention
The method of manufacturing the cosmetic composition of the present invention includes the following steps. In particular, four phases were prepared:
phase a: an aqueous phase comprising a mixture of hydrophilic active substances selected from at least one sebum secretion inhibitor, rosewood seed extract and vitamins;
phase B: an oil phase comprising a mixture of lipophilic active substances selected from at least one sebum secretion inhibitor, rosewood seed extract and vitamins;
phase C: an emulsion phase comprising phase a and phase B; and
Phase D: powder and filler
Phase a is prepared by mixing the hydrophilic active in a main vessel with stirring in the range of about 200rpm to 600rpm and at a temperature in the range of about 25 ℃ to about 70 ℃.
In the secondary vessel, phase B is prepared by mixing the lipophilic active substances, followed by heating until the ingredients are completely melted.
Thereafter, an emulsion step is prepared by adding phase a to phase B at a temperature of at least 65 ℃ with high shear, and after combining phases a and B, they form phase C.
After the emulsion is formed, all the powder and filler are added to the emulsion as a final step (phase D).
After the entire amount of powder (filler) has been incorporated into the emulsion, the composition is finally obtained when the temperature reaches 30 ℃ or less.
Terminology
As used herein, the expression "at least" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
Except in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or process conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about," meaning within +/-5% of the indicated number.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include each and every specific range within the given range, as well as combinations of sub-ranges between the given ranges. Thus, ranges 1-5 specifically include 1,2,3,4, and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, and the like. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any numerical value or point described herein within the ranges described herein can be taken as the minimum or maximum value that yields a subrange or the like.
The term "mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture contain all A, B, C, D, E and F (although all A, B, C, D, E and F may be contained). Rather, it means a mixture that may include any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F. In other words, it corresponds to the phrase "one or two elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F".
Sebum secretion inhibitor
The sebum secretion inhibitor used in the present invention comprises a zinc salt compound which may be a salt or complex of zinc used in skin products selected from the group consisting of: zinc salts of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (zinc-PCA), zinc sulfate, zinc acetate, zinc octoate, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.
Zinc is used in the cosmetic field to form non-volatile salts with fatty acids and other substances and to exert antibacterial activity. Dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a metabolite of testosterone, produced by the action of the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase stimulates sebaceous glands to produce and secrete sebum. The zinc compound inhibits such 5-reductase activity. In a preferred embodiment, the zinc-containing compound is zinc PCA (INCI name), which is a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and serves as an oily-controlling active ingredient (sebum inhibitor) in the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
In a preferred embodiment, the sebum secretion inhibitor compound is in the range of about 0.01 wt% to about 5.0 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
Rosewood seed extract
The extract used in the present invention is rosewood seed extract (INCI name) which is derived from the family rosewood (Bixaceae).
The rosewood seed extract is also known as annatto, annatto (Roucou), red lip tree (RED LIPS TREE), annatto puree (Achiote), annatto (annatto) or kusuwe. The rosewood seed extract of the present invention promotes reduced hyperkeratosis and inhibits the virulence, sebaceous gland activity, pore size and skin imperfections of propionibacterium acnes (p.acnes) while maintaining hydrating and matt skin feel.
The rosewood seed extract may be used in the present invention in liquid, solid, emulsion, gel or powder form, and may be encapsulated or unencapsulated.
In a preferred embodiment, rosewood seed extract (annatto) refers to said extract in its pure form, or as a blend with a polysaccharide such as, but not limited to, maltodextrin or gum arabic.
In a more preferred embodiment, the rosewood seed extract (annatto) of the present invention is a blend of rosewood seed extract (annatto) and maltodextrin. The amount of rosewood seed extract (annatto) in the blend ranges from about 30.0% to about 50.0% and the amount of maltodextrin in the blend ranges from about 50.0% to about 70.0% based on the total weight of the extract.
The amount of rosewood seed extract (annatto) in the compositions of the present invention ranges from about 0.01 wt% to about 5.0 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 wt% to about 3.0 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 2.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Packing material
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler selected from the group of: silylated silica, perlite, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the filler used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a silylated silica.
The "silylated silica" according to the invention is a porous material obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of the silica gel with air. Silica aerogel is typically synthesized in a liquid medium via a sol-gel process and then dried, typically by extraction with a supercritical fluid such as, but not limited to, supercritical carbon dioxide (CO 2). This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and the material. The Sol-gel process and various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker, C.J. and Scherer, G.W., sol-GEL SCIENCE:New York: ACADEMIC PRESS, 1990.
The silylated silica particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (S M) in the range of from about 500 to about 1500m 2/g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 1200m 2/g, or alternatively from about 600 to about 800m 2/g, and a size (D [0.5 ]) expressed as an average volume diameter in the range of from about 1 to about 30 μm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 25 μm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 20 μm, or alternatively from about 5 to about 15 μm. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of THE AMERICAN CHEMICAL Society, volume 60, page 309 (month 1938, 2), which corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794/1. The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
The size of the silylated silica particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle sizer (such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern). The data were processed based on Mie scattering theory (MIE SCATTERING theory). This theory is accurate for isotropic particles, so that the "effective" particle size can be determined in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C. "LIGHT SCATTERING by SMALL PARTICLES (light scattering by small particles)", chapters 9 and 10, wiley, new York, 1957.
The silylated silica particles used in the present invention can advantageously have a tamped (or tap) density in the range of about 0.04g/cm 3 to about 0.10g/cm 3, or alternatively about 0.05g/cm 3 to about 0.08g/cm 3. In the case of the present invention, this density (referred to as tamped density) can be evaluated according to the following protocol: 40g of the powder was poured into a graduated cylinder; the cylinder was then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the cylinder was then subjected to a series of 2500 compaction movements (this operation was repeated until the difference in volume between two successive tests was less than 2%); the final volume Vf of the compacted powder is then measured directly on a measuring cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf (in this case 40/Vf) (Vf is expressed in cm 3 and m is expressed in g).
According to one embodiment, the specific surface area per unit volume S V of the silylated silica particles used in the present invention is in the range of about 5 to about 60m 2/cm3, or alternatively about 10 to about 50m 2/cm3, or alternatively about 15 to about 40m 2/cm3. The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the following relationship: s V=SM. R, where r is the tamped density expressed in g/cm 3 and S M is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m 2/g, as defined above.
In some embodiments, the oil absorption capacity of the silylated silica particles, measured at the wet point, is in the range of about 5 to about 18ml/g, or alternatively about 6 to about 15ml/g, or alternatively about 8 to about 12ml/g, in accordance with the present invention. The oil absorption capacity measured at the wet point (noted Wp) corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. Wp is measured according to the wet spot method or the method described in standard NF T30-022 for measuring the oil absorption of the powder. Wp corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the usable surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point as described below: the amount=2 g of powder was placed on a glass plate, and then oil (isononyl isononanoate) was added dropwise. After 4 to 5 drops of oil were added to the powder, mixing was performed using a spatula and the addition of oil was continued until an agglomerate of oil and powder had formed. At this point, one drop of oil was added at a time, and the mixture was then ground with a spatula. The addition of oil was stopped when a hard, smooth paste was obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass sheet without breaking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (in ml) of oil used is then recorded. The oil absorption corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
The silylated silica according to the invention is a hydrophobic silica aerogel. The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with a silylating agent, such as a halogenated silane (e.g. an alkyl chlorosilane), a siloxane (in particular a dimethylsiloxane such as hexamethyldisiloxane) or a silazane, to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn (e.g. trimethylsilyl groups). The preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface modified by silylation can be found in U.S. Pat. No. 7,470,725, which is incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment, silylated silica particles surface modified with trimethylsilyl groups are desirable.
Suitable examples of silylated silica can include, but are not limited to, aerogels sold under the trade names VM-2260 (INCI name: silylated silica) and VM-2270 (INCI name: silylated silica), both available from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, michigan). The particles of VM-2260 have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass in the range of 600 to 800m 2/g. The particles of VM-2270 have an average size in the range of 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass in the range of 600 to 800m 2/g. Additional suitable examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels can include, but are not limited to: aerogels commercially available under the trade names Aerogel TLD 201, aerogel OGD 201, and Aerogel TLD 203, enova Aerogel MT 1100, and Enova Aerogel MT 1200 from Cabot Corporation (Billerica, massachusetts).
The amount of the at least one filler ranges from about 0.01 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 7 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Vitamins
The cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least one vitamin selected from the group consisting of: vitamin A, vitamin B complex, vitamin C, vitamin E and their mixture.
In a preferred embodiment, the vitamin is a B-complex vitamin (B-complex vitamin, complex B vitamin) selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3 (nicotinamide), B5 (panthenol), B6 (pyridoxine hydrochloride), B7 (biotin) and B9 (folic acid).
More preferably, at least one vitamin of the present invention is vitamin B3 (nicotinamide).
In another embodiment, the vitamin is a mixture of vitamin E and complex B (preferably tocopherol and nicotinamide, respectively).
The amount of the at least one vitamin ranges from about 0.01 wt% to about 10.0 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 wt% to about 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
UV filter
The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one UV filter selected from the group consisting of inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters and mixtures thereof.
Inorganic UV filter
The UV filter may include at least one inorganic UV filter. If more than two inorganic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
The inorganic UV filters used in the present invention may be active in the UV-Sup>A and/or UV-B region. The inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic. Inorganic UV filters are insoluble in solvents such as water in some embodiments, and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics.
It is desirable in some embodiments that the inorganic UV filter be in the form of fine particles such that its average (primary) particle size is in the range of about 1nm to about 50nm, and in some embodiments in the range of about 5nm to about 40nm, and in some embodiments in the range of about 10nm to about 30 nm. The average (primary) particle size or average (primary) particle diameter herein is the arithmetic mean diameter.
The inorganic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of silicon carbide, metal oxides which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof. And in some embodiments, the inorganic UV filter is selected from pigments formed from metal oxides (average primary particle size: typically from about 5nm to about 50nm, and in some embodiments from about 10nm to about 50 nm), such as, for example, pigments formed from titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and/or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide, all of which are UV photoprotective agents well known per se. And in some embodiments, the inorganic UV filter is selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and in some embodiments, titanium oxide.
The inorganic UV filter may or may not be coated. The inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating. The coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (e.g. sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithins, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes (e.g. beeswax), (meth) acrylic polymers, organic UV filters and (per) fluorine compounds. In some embodiments it is desirable for the coating to comprise at least one organic UV filter. As organic UV filters in the coating, dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone (Avobenzone)), and 2,2' -methylenebis [6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (l, l, 3-tetramethyl-butyl) phenol ] (methylenebis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol) such as the product sold by BASF as "tidosorb M" may be desirable.
In a known manner, the silicones in the one or more coatings can be organosilicon polymers or oligomers of variable molecular weight comprising linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structures, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functional silanes, and consisting essentially of recurring main units in which the silicon atoms are linked to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bonds), the optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked to said silicon atoms via carbon atoms.
The term "organosilicon" also covers silanes, in particular alkylsilanes, which are required for its preparation.
The silicone for the one or more coatings may be, and in some embodiments is selected from the group consisting of: alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes (polyalkylhydrosiloxane). And in still some embodiments, the silicone is selected from the group consisting of: octyl trimethyl silane, polydimethylsiloxane and polymethylhydrosiloxane.
Of course, inorganic UV filters made of metal oxides have been treated with other surface treatment agents (surface modifiers, surfacing agent) before they are treated with silicones, in particular with cerium oxide, aluminum oxide, silicon dioxide, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds or mixtures thereof. The coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by: the inorganic UV filter is surface treated with a compound as described above and any of polyethylene waxes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & tools, february 1990, vol.105, pp.53-64, for one or more of the chemical, electronic, mechanical-chemical, and/or mechanical properties.
The coated inorganic UV filter may be: titanium oxide coated with: with silica, such as product "Sun veil" from Ikeda and product "Sunsil TIN" from Sunjin Chemical; with silica and iron oxide, such as the product "Sunveil F" from Ikeda; with silica and alumina, such as product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500SA" from Tayca, product "Tiovil" from Tioxide, and product "Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia; With aluminum oxides, such as products "Tipaque TTO-55 (B)" and "Tipaque TTO-55 (A)" from Ishihara, and products "UVT 14/4" from Kemira; with aluminum oxide and aluminum stearate, such as products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100T, MT TX, MT 100Z, or MT-01" from Tayca, products "Solaveil CT-10W" and "Solaveil CT 100" from Uniqema, and products "Eusolex T-AVO" from Merck; With aluminum oxide and aluminum laurate, such as product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT S" from Tayca; with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100F" from Tayca; with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as product "BR351" from Tayca; coated with silica and with alumina and treated with silicones, such as products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT SAS", "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500SAS" and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100SAS" from Tayca; Coated with silica, with alumina and with aluminum stearate and treated with silicones, such as the product "STT-30-DS" from Titan Kogyo; coated with silica and treated with silicone, such as the product "UV-Titan X195" from Kemira; coated with alumina and treated with silicone, such as product "Tipaque TTO-55 (S)" from Ishihara or product "UV Titan M262" from Kemira; with triethanolamine, such as the product "STT-65-S" from Titan Kogyo; With stearic acid, such as product "Tipaque TTO-55 (C)" from Ishihara; or with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT W" from Tayca. Other titanium oxide pigments treated with silicones are, and in some embodiments are, tiO 2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and having an average size of individual particles of from 25 to 40nm, such as the product sold under the trade name "T805" by Degussa Silices; TiO 2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane and having an average size of the individual particles of 21nm, such as the product sold under the trade name "70250Cardre UF TiO 2Si3" by Cardre; and anatase/rutile TiO 2 treated with polydimethyl hydrogen siloxane and having an average particle size of 25nm, such as the product sold under the trade name "Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic" by Color Techniques.
And in some embodiments, the following coated TiO 2 may be used as a coated inorganic UV filter: stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO 2, such as the product "MT-100TV" from Tayca, having an average primary particle size of 15nm; polydimethylsiloxane (dimethicone) (and) stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO 2, such as product "S A-TTO-S4" from Miyoshi Kasei, having an average primary particle size of 15nm; silica (and) TiO 2, such as product "MT-100WP" from Tayca, having an average primary particle size of 15nm; polydimethyl siloxane (and) silica (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO 2, such as the products "MT-Y02" and "MT-Y-110M3S" from Tayca, having an average primary particle size of 10nm; Polydimethylsiloxane (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO 2, such as the product "SA-TTO-S3" from Miyoshi Kasei, having an average primary particle size of 15nm; polydimethylsiloxane (and) alumina (and) TiO 2, such as the product "UV TITAN Ml 70" from Sachtleben, having an average primary particle size of 15nm; and silica (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) alginic acid (and) TiO 2, such as the product "MT-100AQ" from Tayca, having an average primary particle size of 15nm. TiO 2 coated with at least one organic UV filter is more desirable in terms of UV filtering capability. For example, avobenzone (and) stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO 2, such as the product "HXMT-100ZA" from Tayca, may be used, which has an average primary particle size of 15nm.
The uncoated titanium oxide pigment is sold, for example, by Tayca under the trade name "Microtitanium Dioxide MT B" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B", by Degussa under the trade name "P25", by Wacker under the trade name "Oxyde DE TITANE TRANSPARENT PW", by Miyoshi Kasei under the trade name "UFTR", by Tomen under the trade name "ITS", and by Tioxide under the trade name "Tioveil AQ". Uncoated zinc oxide pigments such as those sold under the trade name "Z-cote" by Sunsmart; those sold under the trade name "Nanox" by Elementis; and those sold under the trade name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies. Coated Zinc Oxide pigments such as those sold under the trade name "Oxide Zinc CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane); those sold under the trade name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, i.e. C 12-C15 alkyl benzoate); Those sold under the trade names "Daitopersion Zn-30" and "Daitopersion Zn-50" by Daito (dispersion in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane/cyclic polymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxide coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those sold under the trade name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkyl ethyl-based copolymer as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane); those sold under the trade name "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclomethicone); Those sold by ISP under the trade name "Escalol Z100" (alumina treated ZnO dispersed in a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene copolymer/methyl polysiloxane (methicone); those sold under the trade name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and those sold under the trade name "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate). the uncoated cerium oxide pigment is sold, for example, by Rhone-Poulenc under the trade name "Colloidal Cerium Oxide".
The uncoated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Arnaud under the trade names "Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "Nanogard Iron FE BL AQ", "Nanogard FE R AQ" and "Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", or by Mitsubishi under the trade name "TY-220".
The coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Arnaud under the trade names "Nanogard WCD (FE 45B FN)", "Nanogard WCD (FE 45B 556)", "Nanogard FE 45BL 345" and "Nanogard FE 45BL", or by BASF under the trade name "Oxyde DE FER TRANSPARENT". Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium oxide, including mixtures of equal weights of titanium dioxide coated with silicon dioxide and cerium oxide coated with silicon dioxide, such as sold under the trade name "Sunveil A" by Ikeda, and mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with aluminum oxide, with silicon dioxide and with silicones, such as the product "M261" sold by Kemira, or mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with aluminum oxide, with silicon dioxide and with glycerol, such as the product "M211" sold by Kemira.
The coated inorganic UV filter is desirable because the UV filtering effect of the inorganic UV filter can be enhanced. In addition, one or more coatings may help to disperse the UV filter uniformly or homogeneously in the composition according to the invention.
Organic UV filters
The composition according to the invention further comprises a UV filter.
The UV filter may include at least one organic UV filter. If more than two organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
The organic UV filters used in the present invention may be active in the UV-Sup>A and/or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
The organic UV filter may be solid or liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" denote a solid and a liquid, respectively, at 25 ℃ at 1 atm.
The organic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of: anthranilic acid compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic acid compounds; salicylic acid compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; beta, beta-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzylidene malonates (benzalmalonate) based compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazolines; bis-benzoxazolyl (bis-benzoazolyl) compounds; para aminobenzoic acid (PABA) type compounds; methylenebis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) based compounds; benzoxazole compounds; a shielding polymer (SCREENING POLYMER) and a shielding silicone (SCREENING SILICONE); dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4, 4-diaryl butadiene-based compounds; guaazulene (guaiazulene) and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; an aromatic amino acid; peptides having aromatic amino acid residues; and mixtures thereof.
As examples of one or more organic UV filters, mention may be made of those indicated below under their INCI names and mixtures thereof. Anthranilic acid compounds: menthyl anthranilates, such as are sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann & Reimer. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, such as in particular sold under the trademark "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic acid compounds: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, such as in particular sold under the trademark "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann-La Roche; Isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, such as sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E1000" by Haarmann & Reimer; cinnolsha ester (cinoxate) (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxycinnamate); DEA methoxy cinnamate; diisopropyl methyl cinnamate; and glycerol ethylhexanoate dimethoxy cinnamate. Salicylic acid compounds: homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate (homomentyl salicylate)), such as sold by Rona/EM Industries under the trademark "Eusolex HMS"; Ethylhexyl salicylate, such as sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann & Reimer; ethylene glycol salicylate; butyl octyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, such as sold under the trademark "Dipsal" by Scher; and TEA salicylates such as those sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann & Reimer. Camphor compounds, in particular benzylidene camphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, such as manufactured by Chimex under the trademark "Mexoryl SD"; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, such as that sold by Merck under the trademark "Eusolex 6300"; benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid, such as manufactured by Chimex under the trademark "Mexoryl SL"; benzalkonium camphor methyl sulfate (camphor benzalkonium methosulfate), such as manufactured by Chimex under the trademark "Mexoryl SO"; terephthalylene dicarbamate sulfonic acid, such as manufactured by Chimex under the trademark "Mexoryl SX"; and polyacrylamide methyl benzyl camphor, such as manufactured by Chimex under the trademark "Mexoryl SW". benzophenone compounds: benzophenone-1 (2, 4-dihydroxybenzophenone), such as is sold under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), such as is sold under the trademark "Uvinul D50" by BASF; benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone (oxybenzone), such as sold by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul M40"; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonic acid), such as sold by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul MS 40"; Benzophenone-5 (sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxydimethoxy benzophenone); such as sold under the trademark "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, such as sold under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by AMERICAN CYANAMID; benzophenone-9 (disodium dihydroxydimethoxy benzophenone disulfonate), such as sold under the trademark "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF; and benzophenone-12, and n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate (such as uvinula + (r) from BASF). Beta, beta-diphenylacrylate compounds: octyl cyanobiphenyl acrylate (Octocrylene), such as in particular sold by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul N539"; and ethyl cyanobiphenyl acrylate (Etocrylene), such as in particular sold by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul N35". Triazine compounds: diethylhexyl butyramidotriazinone, such as sold under the trademark "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4, 6-tris (4' -aminobenzylidene-malonic acid dipivalyl) -S-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, such as sold by CIBA GEIGY under the trademark "tidosorb S", and ethylhexyl triazone, such as sold by BASF under the trademark "UVTNUL T". benzotriazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -6-dodecyl-4-methylphenol, branched and straight chain; and those described in USP 5240975. Benzylidene malonates: 4' -methoxybenzylidene malonic acid dipivalyl ester, and polyorganosiloxanes containing benzylidene malonate functionality, such as silicone polymer-15 (polysiloxane-15, polysilicone-15), such as sold under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche. Benzimidazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acids, such as are sold, inter alia, by Merck under the trademark "Eusolex 232", and disodium phenylbisbenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, such as are sold, inter alia, by Haarmann & Reimer under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP". Imidazolines compounds: dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionic acid ethylhexyl ester. Bis-benzoxazolyl compounds: such as the derivatives described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264.
Para aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethylPABA, ethylhexyl dimethylPABA such as in particular sold by ISP under the trademark "Escalol 507", glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25PABA such as sold by BASF under the trademark "Uvinul P25". Methylenebis- (hydroxyphenyl-benzotriazole) type compounds, such as 2,2' -methylenebis [6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-phenol ], such as the derivatives sold under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2' -methylenebis [6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ], such as the micronized form in aqueous dispersion by BASF under the trademark "Tinosorb M", or the micronized form by Fairmount Chemical under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100", and derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26,184 and EP-893,119, and cresol trisiloxane (Drometrizole trisiloxane), such as the trademark "Silatrizole" by Rhodia mie Or the trademark "Mexoryl XL" by L ' oreal. Benzoxazole compounds: 2, 4-bis [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzooxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino ] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3, 5-triazine, such as sold under the trademark Uvasorb K a by Sigma 3V. Shielding polymer and shielding silicone: silicones described in WO 93/04665. Dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene: dimers described in DE-19855649. 4, 4-diaryl butadiene-based compound: 1, 1-dicarboxy (2, 2' -dimethylpropyl) -4, 4-diphenylbutadiene.
In some embodiments, it is desirable that the one or more organic UV filters are selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl cyanobiphenyl acrylate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid n-hexyl ester, 1, r- (1, 4-piperazinediyl) bis [1- [2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl ] phenyl ] -methanone 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthal-methylenedicarbamate sulfonic acid, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethylhexyl triazinone, bis-ethylhexyl oxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, diethylhexyl butyryl triazinone, 2,4, 6-tris (4 ' -aminobenzylidene malonic acid di-neopentyl) -s-triazine, 2,4, 6-tris (4 ' -aminobenzylidene malonic acid diisobutyl) -s-triazine, 2, 4-bis- (4 ' -aminobenzylidene malonic acid n-butyl) -6- [ (3- {1, 3-tetramethyl-1-silyl ] -trimethoprim-yl) -s-triazine, 2,4, 6-tris (4 ' -aminobenzylidene malonic acid di-n-butyl) -tri-triazine, tris (4 ' -aminobenzylidene) phenyltriazine, tris (4, 6-trimethyl-phenyl) -trimesoyl-triazine, dineopentylene 4 '-methoxybenzylidene malonate, 1-dicarboxy (2, 2' -dimethylpropyl) -4, 4-diphenylbutadiene, 2, 4-bis [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino ] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3, 5-triazine, benzalkonium camphormethylsulfate, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of UV filter ranges from about 0.1 wt% to about 40.0 wt%, preferably from about 1.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
Additional ingredients
In addition to the essential components described above, the composition of the invention may comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient which may be chosen, inter alia, from pigments such as coated pigments, fragrances/perfumes, preservatives, solvents, actives, fatty/oil compounds, metal oxides, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers and mixtures thereof.
The person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional further ingredients and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
The additional ingredients may comprise from about 0.5 wt% to about 98.0 wt% based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.
Examples
Examples 1 to 3
Suitable compositions according to the invention are examples 1 to 3.
Table 1: cosmetic composition according to the invention
Example 4
The cosmetic composition according to example 1 was tested to evaluate the oiliness and lightening of the skin immediately after the application of the product, and after 7, 14 and 28 days under normal use conditions.
20 Female subjects from 18 to 50 years old were tested and the amount of product administered was sufficient to completely cover each half-face (315 mg). Measurements were made after 10-15 minutes of product application (time required for product drying).
Then, after Timm images were obtained, subjects were brought to a Hot Room (Hot Room) (Hammam) with a temperature and relative humidity of 37 ℃ ± 1 ℃ and 60% ± 5RH, where they were allowed to dwell for 2 hours. Subjects were waiting for 20 minutes at 21 ℃ ± 1 ℃ and 50% ± 5RH environmental adaptation (acclimatization) to prevent the analysis from deviating from sweating. During this period (THammam), a new measurement is made.
The subjects also administered the product 2 times a day, and the subjects received product use for 28±2 days.
Oiliness and shine were measured by clinical assessment, where the following evaluations were performed:
Table 2: shine and oiliness assessment
Clinical efficacy assessment was performed at the following time points:
t0: before the product is used.
T7: after 7.+ -. 1 days of product use.
T14: after 14.+ -. 2 days of product use.
T28: after 28.+ -. 2 days of product use.
As a result, a significant reduction in shine/brightness (fig. 1) and oiliness/feel (fig. 2) was observed after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use, as compared to the initial time point (T0).
Example 5
Skin lightening analysis was performed on 20 female subjects from 18 to 50 years old. The amount of product applied was sufficient to completely cover each half-face (315 mg). Measurements were made after 10-15 minutes of product application (time required for product drying).
For the light analysis, pass VisiaObtaining frontal and lateral images of the subject's face, and using the imagesSoftware evaluates skin lightening images. The shine effect of the composition of example 1 was evaluated in the cheek, forehead and full face areas after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use.
For the cheek regions, a statistically significant reduction in shine was observed in fig. 3. A significant reduction in the brightness in the cheek areas was observed after 7 and 14 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0). A decrease in the brightness of the cheek area was also observed after 28 days of product use compared to T0.
A statistically significant reduction in the brightness in the forehead region is observed in fig. 4. It can also be verified that a significant reduction in the brightness of the forehead area is observed after 7 and 14 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0). A trend of reduced brightness in the forehead area was also observed after 28 days of product use compared to T0.
According to fig. 5, a statistically significant reduction in the brightness of the full-face area was observed after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use, as compared to the initial time point (T0).
Example 6
20 Female subjects from 18 to 50 years old were tested and the amount of product administered was sufficient to completely cover each half-face (315 mg). Measurements were made after 10-15 minutes of product application (time required for product drying).
Also measured by instrumentsSM 815 evaluated and measured the oiliness of the composition of example 1. The average result is shown in fig. 6.
As a result, a statistically significant reduction in oiliness was observed after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use, as compared to the initial time point (T0).
Example 7
The cosmetic composition according to example 1 was tested to evaluate the oiliness of the skin immediately after the application of the product, and after 7, 14 and 28 days under normal use conditions.
20 Female subjects from 18 to 50 years old were tested and the amount of product administered was sufficient to completely cover each half-face (315 mg). Measurements were made after 10-15 minutes of product application (time required for product drying).
By instrumental measurementSF16+Vc 20plus to evaluate and measure the oiliness of the skin with respect to the composition of example 1.
The following features were analyzed:
-counting of oily spots;
-percentage of oily area;
-average spot size; and
Gradient of percentage of oily zone per second (%/s).
The results are shown in figures 7, 8, 9 and 10, respectively.
According to fig. 7, a statistically significant higher count of oily spots was observed after 7 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0) and compared to 14 and 28 days of product use. This result, together with the decrease in the percentage of oily areas, average spot size and gradient of percentage of oily areas, shows that the higher counts of oily spots after 7 days are the result of the larger spots dividing into smaller spots.
Based on fig. 8, it was observed that the percentage of oily areas that were statistically significantly lower after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0), indicating a reduction in skin oiliness.
Also observed in fig. 9 is the lower average spot size after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use compared to the initial time point (T0), indicating a reduction in sebum spot size.
Moreover, a gradient of the percentage of oily areas per second with a statistically lower significance was observed after 7, 14 and 28 days of product use, compared to the initial time point (T0), indicating a reduction in sebum production rate, as can be seen in fig. 10.
Examples 8 and 9
By analysing the deviceCR and CRThe images obtained were subjected to comparative analysis to verify the reduction in shine and oiliness of the two sunscreen products under the variations of temperature and humidity experienced.
The sun protection product according to the state of the art (example 8) was compared with the sun protection product according to the invention (example 9).
Comparative analysis was performed in female subjects aged 18 to 50 years, who were annoyed/uncomfortable due to skin conditions. The product was applied on the face twice a day. A total of 49 subjects were evaluated.
Table 8: comparison analysis:
for comparative evaluation, subjects were allowed to dwell for 20 minutes in chambers with controlled temperature and air relative humidity (21 ℃ ±1 ℃ and 50% ±5 RH) prior to measurement, product application and during this evaluation. Utilization device before inspection of product application (T0) SM 815、CR and CRIs measured by an instrument of (a).
After 10-15 minutes of product application and the time required for the product to dry on the skin, use is made ofCR apparatus for image acquisition and utilizationPhotographing of the device (Ti mm).
After Timm images were obtained, subjects were brought to a hot chamber (H ammam) with a temperature and relative humidity of 37 ℃ ± 1 ℃ and 60% ± 5RH, where they were allowed to dwell for 2 hours.
Subjects were allowed to wait 20 minutes in an environmental adaptation of 21 ℃ ± 1 ℃ and 50% ± 5RH to prevent the analysis from deviating from sweating. After this period (TH ammam), the device is utilizedCR obtains a new subject facial image and utilizes both half-facesAnd photographing the device.
The results show that a statistically significant film surface is observed in the composition of the invention (example 9) compared to the state of the art composition (example 8). Fig. 11 shows the mean ± standard error of the difference between the time points of example 8 and example 9 with respect to T0.
Regarding shine analysis, at time point T0, a statistically significant lower comparative gloss parameter (Gc) was observed for the composition of the invention (example 9) compared to the state of the art composition (example 8), indicating that the composition of the invention exhibits lower shine after application.
Moreover, at time point TH ammam, a significantly lower comparative gloss parameter (Gc) was observed in the composition of the invention (example 9) when compared to the state of the art composition (example 8), indicating that example 9 promotes lower shine compared to example 8 after 2 hours in a sauna room.
Figure 12 shows the mean ± standard error of the difference between time points of examples 8 and 9 relative to T0.
Claims (14)
1. A cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) At least one sebum secretion inhibitor comprising a zinc salt compound;
(b) Rosewood (Bixa Orellana) (annatto) seed extract;
(c) At least one filler selected from the group consisting of silylated silica, perlite, and mixtures thereof; and
(D) At least one vitamin selected from the group consisting of vitamin a, vitamin B complex, vitamin C, vitamin E, and mixtures thereof.
2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the sebum secretion inhibitor containing a zinc salt compound is selected from zinc salts of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (zinc PCA), zinc sulfate, zinc acetate, zinc octoate, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the sebum secretion inhibitor containing a zinc salt compound is a zinc salt of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (zinc-PCA).
4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the rosewood seed extract (annatto) is a blend of rosewood seed extract (annatto) with a polysaccharide selected from maltodextrin or gum arabic.
5. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the filler is a silylated silica.
6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of sebum secretion inhibitor comprising a zinc salt compound is in the range of 0.01 wt% to 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
7. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of rosewood seed extract (annatto) ranges from 0.01 wt% to 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
8. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of filler ranges from 0.01 wt% to 20.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
9. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of the vitamin ranges from 0.01 wt% to 10.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises a UV filter.
11. A cosmetic composition comprising:
a) 0.05 to 3.0 wt% of at least one zinc skin lipid secretion inhibitor containing a zinc salt compound selected from zinc salts of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (zinc PCA), zinc sulfate, zinc acetate, zinc octoate, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof;
(b) 0.1 to 3.0% by weight of rosewood seed extract (annatto) and maltodextrin;
(c) 0.1 to 10.0 weight percent of at least one filler selected from the group consisting of silylated silica, perlite and mixtures thereof; and
(D) 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of at least one vitamin selected from the group consisting of vitamin a, B complex, vitamin C, vitamin E and mixtures thereof.
12. The cosmetic composition of claim 10, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises a UV filter.
13. Use of a cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) At least one sebum secretion inhibitor comprising a zinc salt compound, the at least one sebum secretion inhibitor comprising a zinc salt compound selected from zinc salts of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (zinc PCA), zinc sulfate, zinc acetate, zinc octoate, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof;
(b) Rosewood (annatto) seed extract;
(c) At least one filler selected from the group consisting of silylated silica, perlite, and mixtures thereof;
(d) At least one vitamin selected from the group consisting of vitamin A, vitamin B complex, vitamin C, vitamin E, and mixtures thereof,
Wherein the cosmetic composition is used to make a product that reduces the oiliness and shine of the skin.
14. The use of claim 13, wherein the composition further comprises a UV filter.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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PCT/BR2022/050063 WO2023159282A1 (en) | 2022-02-25 | 2022-02-25 | Cosmetic composition for reducing oilness and shine of the skin and use of the cosmetic composition |
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CN118302179A true CN118302179A (en) | 2024-07-05 |
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CN202280074208.0A Pending CN118302179A (en) | 2022-02-25 | 2022-02-25 | Cosmetic composition for reducing the oiliness and shine of the skin and use of the same |
Country Status (4)
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KR (1) | KR20240093708A (en) |
CN (1) | CN118302179A (en) |
FR (1) | FR3133013A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2023159282A1 (en) |
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US2463264A (en) | 1942-12-23 | 1949-03-01 | Ciba Ltd | Derivatives of cyclic amidines and process of making same |
US5240975A (en) | 1988-04-11 | 1993-08-31 | Ciba-Geigy Corporation | Liquid substituted 2H-benzotriazole mixtures, stabilized compositions |
US5237071A (en) | 1991-01-22 | 1993-08-17 | Fairmount Chemical Company, Inc. | Process for preparing 2,2'-methylene-bis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl phenols) |
US5166355A (en) | 1991-02-04 | 1992-11-24 | Fairmount Chemical Co., Inc. | Process for preparing substituted 2,2'-methylene-bis-[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl-phenols] |
FR2680683B1 (en) | 1991-08-29 | 1993-11-12 | Oreal | COSMETIC FILTERING COMPOSITION CONTAINING A HYDROCARBON STRUCTURED FILTER POLYMER AND A FILTERED SILICONE. |
EP0669323B2 (en) | 1994-02-24 | 2004-04-07 | Haarmann & Reimer Gmbh | Cosmetic and dermatological preparations, containing phenylene-1,4-bisbenzimidazole sulfonic acids |
GB9515048D0 (en) | 1995-07-22 | 1995-09-20 | Ciba Geigy Ag | Sunscreen compositions |
WO1998022084A1 (en) * | 1996-11-19 | 1998-05-28 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Skin care compositions |
DE19648798C2 (en) | 1996-11-26 | 1998-11-19 | Hoechst Ag | Process for the production of organically modified aerogels by surface modification of the aqueous gel (without prior solvent exchange) and subsequent drying |
DE19726184A1 (en) | 1997-06-20 | 1998-12-24 | Beiersdorf Ag | Oil-in-water or multiple emulsion with high concentration of suspended UVB filter |
GB9715751D0 (en) | 1997-07-26 | 1997-10-01 | Ciba Geigy Ag | Formulations |
GB9810803D0 (en) * | 1998-05-21 | 1998-07-22 | Boots Co Plc | Topical compositions |
DE19855649A1 (en) | 1998-12-03 | 2000-06-08 | Basf Ag | Dimeric alpha-alkyl-styrene derivatives as photostable UV filters in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations |
IL166646A0 (en) * | 2005-01-30 | 2006-01-15 | Or Le Or Ltd | A new cosmetic composition |
JP2006290775A (en) * | 2005-04-08 | 2006-10-26 | Haba Laboratories Inc | Oily external preparation for skin |
US20130209533A1 (en) * | 2010-10-06 | 2013-08-15 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Solid Powder Cosmetic |
US9474698B1 (en) * | 2015-06-19 | 2016-10-25 | Brittany Luzar | Dental hygiene assembly |
US20180116925A1 (en) * | 2016-10-31 | 2018-05-03 | Australian Gold, LLC | Sunscreen compositions |
JP2019019077A (en) * | 2017-07-18 | 2019-02-07 | ポーラ化成工業株式会社 | Skin external composition |
FR3082122B1 (en) * | 2018-06-11 | 2021-01-01 | Basf Beauty Care Solutions France Sas | USE OF A BIXA ORELLANA EXTRACT |
BR112022021787A2 (en) * | 2020-06-30 | 2023-01-17 | Oreal | ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING AN ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND USES OF THE ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION |
FR3112687A1 (en) * | 2020-07-23 | 2022-01-28 | Rpm Dermatologie | Personalized and customizable skin care kit |
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2022
- 2022-02-25 KR KR1020247016301A patent/KR20240093708A/en unknown
- 2022-02-25 CN CN202280074208.0A patent/CN118302179A/en active Pending
- 2022-02-25 WO PCT/BR2022/050063 patent/WO2023159282A1/en active Search and Examination
- 2022-04-14 FR FR2203437A patent/FR3133013A1/en active Pending
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WO2023159282A1 (en) | 2023-08-31 |
FR3133013A1 (en) | 2023-09-01 |
KR20240093708A (en) | 2024-06-24 |
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