CN117979945A

CN117979945A - Composition for conditioning or caring for keratin materials

Info

Publication number: CN117979945A
Application number: CN202180102673.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 胡雅; 陶庆胜
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2021-09-23
Filing date: 2021-09-23
Publication date: 2024-05-03
Also published as: WO2023044666A1; FR3127132A1; FR3127132B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a transparent anhydrous composition for conditioning or caring for keratin materials, comprising: a) A continuous oily phase containing at least one oil; b) A surfactant combination of at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant; and c) a dispersed phase comprising an organic solvent, wherein both the nonionic surfactant and the ionic surfactant are lipophilic. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning or caring for keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

Description

Composition for conditioning or caring for keratin materials

Technical Field

The present invention relates to compositions for conditioning or caring for keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the skin and hair. The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for conditioning or caring for keratin materials.

Background

Typically, external atmospheric factors such as light, weather and/or mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving (permanent) and/or straightening effects cause hair damage and friability.

There are many products available for conditioning hair that contain lipophilic active ingredients. For example, there are many hair oil products that contain lipophilic active ingredients.

WO 2000074644A1 discloses a composition comprising at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant; at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amount equal to or greater than the amount of phospholipids by weight; at least one suspending agent present in an amount effective to maintain a stable composition; and a lipophilic component.

EP0966955A1 discloses a cosmetic composition for treating keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous medium, at least one polyorganosiloxane and an acrylic terpolymer. The terpolymer comprises: (1) Carboxylic acids (a) (20 to 70 wt%, preferably 25 to 55 wt%) having an α, β -monoethylenically unsaturated structure; (2) Monomers (B) other than (A) (20 to 80% by weight, preferably 30 to 65% by weight) having a non-surfactant monoethylenically unsaturated structure; and (3) a nonionic urethane monomer (C) (0.5 to 60% by weight, preferably 10 to 50% by weight) prepared by reacting a monohydroxy nonionic surfactant with a monoisocyanate, which has a monoethylenically unsaturated structure.

In order to meet the needs of various consumers, cosmetic manufacturers are eager to diversify the product types of hair oil products.

During the development of hair oil products, there are challenges to including ingredients that are soluble in organic solvents for conditioning hair.

In addition, it is highly desirable to use some products having a pleasing appearance, such as some products having a transparent appearance, to provide hair conditioning benefits.

It is also desirable that the product used to condition hair be stable over time.

This is also true for products used for caring for the skin.

Thus, there remains a need to develop compositions for conditioning hair or caring for skin that have a transparent appearance and are stable over time, and optionally contain an active ingredient soluble in an organic solvent for conditioning hair or caring for skin.

Summary of The Invention

It is therefore an object of the present invention to develop a composition for conditioning or caring for keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as skin and hair, which has a transparent appearance and is stable over time, and optionally comprises an active ingredient soluble in an organic solvent for conditioning the hair or caring for the skin.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a transparent anhydrous composition for conditioning or care of keratin materials, comprising:

a) A continuous oily phase containing at least one oil;

b) A surfactant combination of at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant; and

C) A dispersed phase containing an organic solvent,

Wherein both the nonionic surfactant and the ionic surfactant are lipophilic.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for conditioning or caring for keratin materials, comprising the application to keratin fibres of a composition as described above.

The inventors have found that reverse micelles are formed in the composition according to the invention, such that the composition has a transparent appearance and is thermodynamically stable over time, and that the composition is effective in conditioning or caring for keratin materials.

Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent upon reading the following detailed description and examples.

Drawings

The implementation of the invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 shows the multimodal size distribution of the leave-on oil of example 1 of the present invention.

Figure 2 shows the multimodal size distribution of the leave-on oil of example 2 of the present invention.

Figure 3 shows the multimodal size distribution of the leave-on oil of example 3 of the present invention.

Figure 4 shows the multimodal size distribution of the leave-on oil of example 4 of the present invention.

Figure 5 shows the multimodal size distribution of the leave-on oil of example 5 of the present invention.

Figure 6 shows the multimodal size distribution of the leave-on oil of example 6 of the present invention.

Detailed Description

As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the numerical ranges are included in the ranges, particularly in the expressions "between … and …" and "… to …".

The term "comprising" as used herein is to be interpreted as including all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features

As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which no feature other than the specifically mentioned feature is present (i.e., "consisting of …").

Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. To the extent that the definitions of terms in this specification conflict with the meanings commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which this invention pertains, the definitions set forth herein should apply.

Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Thus, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters set forth herein are approximations that can vary depending upon the desired properties to be obtained.

For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "clear" is interchangeable with the term "transparent".

By "anhydrous" is meant that no water is deliberately added and the water content of the composition is less than 0.5 wt%, particularly less than 0.1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, no water is present in the composition.

As used herein, the term "keratin materials" includes human keratin materials such as hair and skin.

As used herein, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

As used herein, the term "reverse micelle" has the following definition: dissolving a surfactant in a nonpolar organic solvent; when their concentration exceeds the Critical Micelle Concentration (CMC), micelles form in the organic solvent, which is known as reverse micelles. In the reverse micelle, the nonpolar group of the surfactant is externally contacted with the nonpolar organic solvent, and the polar group is internally disposed to form the polar core. The polar core has the ability to dissolve polar materials. Reverse micelles are nanoscale aggregates that are transparent and thermodynamically stable W/O systems.

As used herein, the term "lipophilic" refers to a substance or material that can be dissolved or dispersed in an oil phase at 25 ℃ to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous phase.

According to a first aspect of the present invention, a transparent anhydrous composition for conditioning or care of keratin materials comprises:

a) A continuous oily phase containing at least one oil;

b) A surfactant combination comprising at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant; and

C) A dispersed phase containing an organic solvent,

Wherein both the nonionic surfactant and the ionic surfactant are lipophilic.

Oil phase

According to a first aspect of the invention, the composition comprises a continuous oil phase comprising at least one oil.

Herein, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or substance that is in liquid or paste (non-solid) form at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

As one or more oils, oils commonly used in cosmetic products may be used alone or in combination. These one or more oils may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as hydrocarbons, silicones, and the like; polar oils, such as esters, fatty alcohols, and ethers; or a combination thereof.

The oil may be of vegetable or animal origin and synthetic oil.

As examples of vegetable oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia seed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and combinations thereof.

As examples of synthetic oils, alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides may be mentioned.

The ester oil is preferably a liquid ester of a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C₂₆ aliphatic mono-or polyacid with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C₂₆ aliphatic mono-or polyol, the total number of carbon atoms of the ester being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl pivalate and isostearyl pivalate.

Esters of C ₄-C₂₂ di-or tricarboxylic acids with C ₁-C₂₂ alcohols and esters of mono-, di-or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C ₄-C₂₆ dihydric, trihydric, tetrahydroxy or penta-hydric alcohols may also be used.

Mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropanol citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glycerol trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; tri (octyldodecanol) citrate; triol citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As the ester oil, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆-C₃₀ fatty acids and preferably C ₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids can be used. Recall that the term "sugar" refers to an oxygenated hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contains at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be mono-, oligo-or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, trehalose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, e.g. methyl glucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may in particular be selected from the esters or ester mixtures of the sugars described previously with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C₃₀ fatty acids and preferably C ₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and combinations thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or combinations thereof, such as, inter alia, oil palmitates, mixed esters of oil stearates and palmitostearates, and pentaerythritol tetraethyl hexanoate (PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAETHYL hexaoate).

More particularly mono-and diesters are used, and in particular sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose mono-or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oil palmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oil stearates.

Examples which may be mentioned are the companies Amerchol under the nameDO, which is methyl glucose dioleate.

As examples of preferred ester oils, mention may be made, for example, of diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl caproate, ethyl laurate, cetyl caprylate, octyldodecyl caprylate, isodecyl pivalate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl capryl/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, tri (2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythritol tetra (2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and combinations thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, caprylic/capric triglyceride, trimyristate glyceride, tripalmitin, trilinein glyceride, trilaurin glyceride, tricapran glyceride, tricaprylin glyceride, and tris (capric/caprylic/linolenic) glyceride.

The ether hydrocarbon-based oil, also known as an ether oil, may be volatile or nonvolatile, and is preferably nonvolatile.

The ether hydrocarbon-based oil is an oil of formula R ₁OR₂, wherein R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a linear, branched or cyclic C ₄-C₂₄ alkyl group, preferably a C ₆-C₁₈ alkyl group, and preferably a C ₈-C₁₂ alkyl group. It may be preferred that R ₁ and R ₂ are the same.

Straight-chain alkyl groups which may be mentioned include butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl and tetracosyl.

Branched alkyl radicals which may be mentioned include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, tert-butyl, 1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1, 3-dimethylbutyl, l- (l-methylethyl) -2-methylpropyl, 1, 3-tetramethylbutyl, 3, 5-trimethylhexyl, l- (2-methylpropyl) -3-methylbutyl, 3, 7-dimethyloctyl and 2- (l), 3, 3-trimethylbutyl) -5, 7-trimethyloctyl.

Cyclic alkyl groups which may be mentioned include cyclohexyl, 3-methylcyclohexyl and 3, 5-trimethylcyclohexyl.

Advantageously, the ether oil is selected from the group consisting of dioctyl ether (DICAPRYLYL ETHER), didecyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether (dioctoyl ether), nonylphenyl ether, dodecyldimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and combinations thereof.

Preferably, it is selected from the group consisting of dioctyl ether (DICAPRYLYL ETHER), didecyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether (dioctyl ether), and combinations thereof. Dioctyl ether (DICAPRYLYL ETHER) is most particularly suitable for use.

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear organopolysiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane, methylphenyl polysiloxane, methyl hydrogen polysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and combinations thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the invention are silicone oils as defined above and contain one or more organofunctional groups in their structure linked via hydrocarbon-based groups.

Organopolysiloxane is defined in more detail in CHEMISTRY AND Technology of Silicones (1968), ACADEMIC PRESS of Walter Noll. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point of 60 ℃ to 260 ℃, and even more particularly selected from:

(i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are for example given the name Volatile by Union Carbide 7207 Or by Rhodia under the name/>70045V2 octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane sold under the name Volatile/>, by Union Carbide7158. Under the name Rhodia70045V5, dodecamethyl cyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and combinations thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclic copolymers (of the type for example dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane), such as Silicone/>, sold by the company Union CarbideFZ 3109 has the formula:

mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, for example mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis (trimethylsilyl) pentaerythritol (tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol) (50/50), and mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxygen-1, 1' -bis (2, 2', 3' -hexatrimethylsilyloxy) neopentane;

(ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10 ^-6m²/s at 25 ℃. One example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name SH 200, particularly by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in the articles published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, volume 91, month 1 of 76, pages 27-32, todd & Byers, volatile Silicone Fluidsfor Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicone was measured at 25 ℃ according to ASTM standard 445 appendix C.

Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way of non-limiting example, of the following commercial products:

-series 47 and 70047 sold by Rhodia Oil or/>Oils, such as oil 70047V 500000;

Sold by the company Rhodia A series of oils;

-a series 200 oil from Dow Corning, company, for example DC200 with a viscosity of 60000mm ²/s;

-from GENERAL ELECTRIC Oil and certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC (SF 96, SF 18).

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), for example the 48 series of oils from the company Rhodia.

Among the aryl-containing silicones are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:

-70641 series from Rhodia An oil;

-from Rhodia 70633 And 763 series of oils;

-oil Dow Corning 556Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

Silicones from the Bayer PK series, such as product PK20;

Some oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The organically modified liquid silicone may contain, in particular, polyoxyethylene groups and/or polyoxypropylene groups. Thus, mention may be made of silicone KF-6017 by Shin-Etsu and oils from the company Union CarbideL722 and L77.

The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from:

-a linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C ₆-C₁₆ lower alkane. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and

Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum (petrolatum), polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene such asAnd squalane.

As preferable examples of the hydrocarbon oil, for example, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum (petrolatum), naphthalene, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene/butene copolymers; and combinations thereof.

Preferably, the oil is selected from branched alkane oils containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms and more preferably 10 to 16 carbon atoms such as isododecane, triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, ether hydrocarbon based oils having a C ₈-C₁₂ alkyl group such as dioctyl ether, polydimethylsiloxanes optionally containing dimethylsilanol end groups such as polydimethylsiloxane (dimethicone), dimethiconol, and combinations thereof.

More preferably, the oil is selected from the group consisting of isododecane, dioctyl ether, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, and combinations thereof.

Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount ranging from 80% to 98.5% by weight, preferably from 85% to 97.5% by weight, more preferably from 88% to 94% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surface active agent

According to a first aspect of the present invention, a composition comprises a surfactant combination comprising at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one cationic surfactant, or at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one anionic surfactant.

In some embodiments, the compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one cationic surfactant, or at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one anionic surfactant as the only surfactants.

By means of a specific surfactant combination, the organic solvent contained in the dispersed aqueous phase is relatively high and sufficient to carry an effective amount of the active ingredient soluble in the organic solvent.

In fact, the surfactant combinations of the present invention achieve synergistic effects. In this context, the term "synergistic effect" means that the amount of organic solvent contained in the dispersed aqueous phase from the surfactant action of the present invention is higher than the sum of the amounts of organic solvent contained in the dispersed aqueous phase from each individual surfactant action contained in the surfactant combination.

Advantageously, the surfactant combination is present in an amount of from about 0.1wt% to about 20 wt%, preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, or from about 1wt% to about 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Ionic surfactants

In this context, the term "ionic surfactant" refers to a surfactant having at least one anion or cation in the molecule, and non-limiting examples that may be mentioned are anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and zwitterionic surfactants.

The ionic surfactant according to the present invention is preferably selected from anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and combinations thereof. In most embodiments, the anionic surfactant and the cationic surfactant are not included in the compositions of the present invention at the same time, and even if they are included at the same time, the amount of one of them is significantly lower or higher than the other to avoid undesirable interactions.

Furthermore, the ionic surfactants according to the invention are lipophilic.

As anionic surfactants there may be mentioned anionic surfactants having at least one C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chain, for example one or two C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chains, and preferably two C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chains. For example, the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially dialkyl sulfosuccinates, wherein the alkyl group has from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 12 carbon atoms. Different or identical alkyl groups may be present in one dialkyl sulfosuccinate salt molecule, with identical alkyl groups being preferred. Alkyl groups may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.

As counter ion for the sulfonic acid group, alkali metal cations, alkaline earth metal cations or ammonium ions, in particular sodium ions, can be used. Preferably, the dialkyl sulfosuccinate salt is selected from the group consisting of dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts wherein each alkyl group has 6 to 22 carbon atoms and the counter ion of the sulfonic acid group is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal cations and ammonium ions.

Non-limiting examples of alkyl sulfosuccinates include sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dinonyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diisononyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate (dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate), sodium diheptyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dihexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate (dicapryl sodium sulfosuccinate), sodium didecyl sulfosuccinate, sodium di (undecyl) sulfosuccinate (diundecyl sodium sulfosuccinate), sodium dilauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium dicotyl sulfosuccinate (dicocoyl sodium sulfosuccinate), sodium ditridecyl sulfosuccinate (DITRIDECYL SODIUM SULFOSUCCINATE), sodium dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dinonyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diisononyl sulfosuccinate dioctyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, diheptyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, dihexyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, di Xin Zhian (ammonium dicapryl sulfosuccinate) of sulfosuccinate, didecyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, di undecyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, dilauryl ammonium sulfosuccinate, ditolyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, ditridecyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, dipropyl heptyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, dicyclohexyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, diethylhexyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dinonyl potassium sulfosuccinate, diisononyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dioctyl potassium sulfosuccinate (dioctyl potassium sulfosuccinate), diheptyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dihexyl potassium sulfosuccinate, dioctyl potassium sulfosuccinate (dicapryl potassium sulfosuccinate), didecyl potassium sulfosuccinate, potassium di (undecyl) sulfosuccinate, dilauryl sulfosuccinate, potassium di cocoyl sulfosuccinate, ditridecyl sulfosuccinate, dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate and dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate.

Other non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include 1, 3-dioctyl glycerol ether hydroxypropyl sulfonate, 1, 3-didecyl glycerol ether hydroxypropyl sulfonate, 1, 3-didodecyl glycerol ether hydroxypropyl sulfonate, sodium distearate, sodium dioleyl phosphate, 1, 2-dioleoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphate (sodium salt), sodium dilauryl glutamine lysine and sodium ethylenebis (N-lauroyl-aspartate), and the like.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of dialkyl sulfosuccinates, wherein each alkyl group has 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms, and both alkyl groups are identical. In some embodiments, the anionic surfactant is sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate.

As cationic surfactants, mention may be made of fatty quaternary ammonium compounds, and preferably fatty quaternary ammonium compounds having at least one C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chain, for example one, two or three C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chains, of which two C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chains are preferred. Different or identical alkyl groups may be present in one molecule of the fatty quaternary ammonium compound having two or three C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chains, with identical alkyl groups being preferred. The alkyl group may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, and is preferably linear and saturated. In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of alkyl trimethylammonium, dialkyl dimethylammonium, trialkyl methylammonium, and combinations thereof, wherein each alkyl group contains from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

The anions of the quaternary ammonium compounds can be common ions, for example, halogen ions include chloride and bromide, ethyl sulfate, methyl sulfate, acetate, lactate, nitrate, phosphate, tosylate, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the anion of the quaternary ammonium compound is selected from chloride, methyl sulfate and bromide, and especially chloride.

Non-limiting examples of fatty quaternary ammonium compounds include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyl trimethylammonium chloride (stearimonium chloride), behenyl trimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate, behenyl trimethylammonium methyl sulfate, peanut trimethylammonium chloride (arachidtrimonium chloride), distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethylammonium chloride, tricetyl trimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, lauryl trimethylammonium chloride, myristyl trimethylammonium bromide, oleyl trimethylammonium chloride, dimethyl dilauryl ammonium bromide, dibehenyl dimethylammonium chloride, dioleyl dimethylammonium chloride, tristearyl methylammonium chloride, dilauryl dimethylammonium chloride, cocoyl trimethylammonium chloride, cetyl ethyldimethylammonium bromide (cethethyldimonium bromide), stearyl octanediammonium methyl sulfate, 1, 2-dioleoyl-3-trimethylammonium-propane (chloride salt), and combinations thereof.

Preferably, the cationic surfactant is selected from dialkyldimethylammonium halides, wherein each alkyl group contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and both alkyl groups are identical. In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant is dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

Advantageously, the ionic surfactant is present in an amount of from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactant

The nonionic surfactant according to the invention is lipophilic.

As the nonionic surfactant, nonionic surfactants having at least one C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chain, for example, one, two or three C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chains, may be mentioned, and preferably the nonionic surfactants further have an HLB value of about 0 to about 10.

As examples, mention may be made of esters of polyols with fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing, for example, 6-22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100, for example one or more glycerides of C ₆-C₂₂, preferably C ₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of one or more C ₆-C₂₂, preferably C ₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; one or more sorbitol esters of C ₆-C₂₂, preferably C ₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; one or more sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkyl sugar) esters of C ₆-C₂₂, preferably C ₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; and combinations thereof.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric, palmitic, stearic or behenic acid, and combinations thereof, especially those containing 9 to 100 ethylene oxide groups, such as ethylene glycol dilaurate, ethylene glycol distearate, PEG-3 distearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-12 distearate, PEG-100 distearate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-2 dilaurate, PEG-4 dilaurate, PEG-8 dilaurate, ethylene glycol dioleate, PEG-3 dioleate, PEG-4 dioleate, and the like.

Examples of the glycerol ester of fatty acid include glycerol stearate (di-and/or tristearin), for example, 1, 3-distearin, glycerol dioleate, glycerol dilaurate, 1, 3-dipalmitin, and combinations thereof.

As polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, the polyglycerol moiety may be derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, preferably 2 to 8 glycerols, or 2 to 6 glycerols, and/or the fatty acid may be a C ₆-C₂₂ fatty acid, and preferably a C ₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acid.

Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids may be selected from mono-, di-, tri-or sesqui-esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, palmitic acid and myristic acid.

The polyglycerol esters of fatty acids may be selected from polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-or sesquioctanoates comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-or sesquidecanoates comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-or sesquilaurates comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-or sesquimyristates comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-or sesquipalmitates comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-or sesquistearates comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-or sesquioleates comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, and combinations thereof, wherein fatty acids comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units and/or polyglycerol esters derived from C ₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids are preferred.

Sorbitol esters of C ₆-C₂₂ fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives may be selected from sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids such as span 65, span 85 with alkoxylated sorbitol anhydrides containing for example 20 to 100 EO, for example polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or compounds sold under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Croda.

As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, mention may be made in particular of glucose palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearate, such as methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitate, such as methyl glucose or ethyl glucose palmitate, methyl glucoside fatty esters, and more particularly diesters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (methyl glucose dioleate), mixed esters of methyl glucoside and the mixture oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), esters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (methyl glucose isostearate), esters of methyl glucoside and lauric acid (methyl glucose laurate), mixtures of mono-and diesters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (methyl glucose sesquistearate), mixtures of mono-and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular the products sold under the name Glucate SS by Lubrizol, and mixtures thereof.

As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, there may be mentioned, for example, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, and in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of methyl glucose with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) of diesters of methyl glucose with stearic acid, such as the product sold under the name GLUCAM E-20DISTEARATE by Lubrizol, polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of mono-and diesters of methyl glucose with stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular the product sold under the name GLUCAMATE SSE-20 by Lubrizol, and combinations thereof.

Examples of sucrose esters include sucrose dilaurate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose dioleate, sucrose trioleate and sucrose tristearate.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglycerol esters of fatty acids; in particular polyglycerol monooleate, polyglycerol dioleate or polyglycerol trioleate containing from 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglycerol monoisostearate, polyglycerol diisostearate or polyglycerol triisostearate containing from 2 to 6 glycerol units, and combinations thereof.

More preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, and combinations thereof.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, most preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Disperse phase

According to a first aspect of the invention, the composition comprises a dispersed phase comprising an organic solvent.

The dispersed phase of the composition according to the invention comprises an organic solvent selected from the group consisting of organic alcohols such as ethanol, octyldodecanol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol (propylene glycol) and propylene glycol (propylene glycol).

The organic solvent acts as the core of the reverse micelle to encapsulate the active ingredient that is soluble in the organic solvent.

Advantageously, the organic solvent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic active ingredient

Preferably, the composition comprises a cosmetic active ingredient having a solubility in an organic solvent of not less than 10 g.

The cosmetic active ingredient may be present inside the core of the micelle containing the organic solvent or at the solvent-oil interface.

As examples of cosmetic active ingredients, mention may be made of UV filters, such as avobenzone, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene; ceramides, such as 2-oleamido-1, 3-octadecanediol, N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine, hydroxypalmitoyl dihydrosphingosine; tocopherols and salicylic acid.

If present, the cosmetic active ingredient is advantageously present in an amount of from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Adjuvant

The composition according to the invention may also comprise effective amounts of other ingredients, such as fragrances, preservatives and the like.

The amount of additional adjuvant can be selected by one skilled in the art so as not to negatively affect the end use of the composition according to the invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a transparent anhydrous composition for conditioning or care of keratin materials, comprising, with respect to the total weight of the composition:

a) 88 to 94 weight percent of at least one oil selected from the group consisting of isododecane, dioctyl ether, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, and combinations thereof;

b) 0.1 to 1.0 wt% of at least one cationic surfactant selected from dialkyl dimethyl ammonium halides, and 0.1 to 1.0 wt% of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from polyglycerol monooleate, polyglycerol dioleate, or polyglycerol trioleate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglycerol monoisostearate, polyglycerol diisostearate, or polyglycerol triisostearate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, and combinations thereof;

c) 0.3 to 2 weight percent of at least one organic solvent selected from the group consisting of ethanol, octyldodecanol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol (propanediol), and propylene glycol (propylene glycol), and combinations thereof; and

D) 0.1 to 1% by weight of at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from avobenzone, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, 2-oleoyl-1, 3-octadecanediol, N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine, hydroxypalmitoyl dihydrosphingosine, salicylic acid, and combinations thereof,

Wherein both the nonionic surfactant and the cationic surfactant are lipophilic.

Preparation and use

The composition according to the invention can be prepared by mixing the components a) to c) as essential components, together with one or more additional components as described above.

There is no limitation on the method and means of mixing the above basic and optional ingredients. Any conventional method and means may be used to mix the above basic and optional ingredients to prepare the compositions according to the present invention.

The process for the preparation of the composition according to the invention does not require an energy consuming step.

Reverse micelles are formed in the composition according to the invention.

The presence of reverse micelles can be confirmed by measuring the size of the reverse micelles by Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS).

The compositions according to the invention are useful as conditioning leave-on or rinse-off products for hair or skin care.

The composition can potentially deliver the functionality of an active ingredient that is soluble in an organic solvent to consumer perceivable benefits.

According to a second aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic process for conditioning or caring for keratin materials, comprising the application to keratin materials of a composition as described above.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope.

Examples

The main raw materials used, trade names and suppliers thereof are listed in table 1.

TABLE 1

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Inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3

Leave-on oils according to inventive formulations (IE.) 1-3 and comparative formulations (ce.) 1-3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in table 2 (unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as weight percent of active material relative to the total weight of each leave-on oil):

TABLE 2

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The preparation process comprises the following steps:

Each leave-in oil was prepared as follows:

1) Mixing polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, triglyceride, isododecane, trimethylsiloxysilicate, dioctyl ether and perfume under stirring to obtain hair base material;

2) Adding a surfactant to the hair base by thorough stirring;

3) Adding the polyol to the hair oil containing the surfactant by stirring thoroughly to obtain a leave-on oil.

Evaluation:

The stability of each of the obtained leave-on oils was evaluated by keeping the leave-on oil at 4 ℃, room temperature (20 ℃) or 45 ℃ for 2 months and visually checking whether the leave-on oil is transparent. The wash-free oil tested will be evaluated as stable if it is transparent at all 4 ℃, room temperature (20 ℃) and 45 ℃ for 2 months, otherwise it will be evaluated as unstable.

The appearance of each of the obtained leave-on oils was visually observed.

The results are summarized in table 3.

TABLE 3 Table 3

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Inventive examples 4-5 and comparative example 4

Leave-on oils according to inventive formulations (IE.) 4-5 and comparative formulation (ce.) 4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in table 4 (unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as weight percent of active material relative to the total weight of each leave-on oil):

TABLE 4 Table 4

The preparation process comprises the following steps:

Each leave-in oil was prepared as follows:

1) Mixing polydimethylsiloxane, isododecane, trisiloxane and perfume by stirring thoroughly to obtain hair oil base material;

2) Mixing 2-oleoyl amido-1, 3-octadecanediol and octyldodecanol by thorough stirring and heating if necessary to obtain active/solvent preparation phase;

3) Adding a surfactant to the hair base by thorough stirring;

4) Adding the active/solvent preparation phase to a hair oil containing a surfactant by stirring thoroughly to obtain a leave-on oil.

Evaluation:

The appearance of each of the obtained leave-on oils was visually observed.

The results are summarized in table 5.

TABLE 5

Inventive example 6 and comparative example 5

Leave-on oils according to inventive formulation (IE.) 6 and comparative formulation (ce.) 5 were prepared with the ingredients listed in table 6 (unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as weight percent of active material relative to the total weight of each leave-on oil):

TABLE 6

The preparation process comprises the following steps:

Each leave-in oil was prepared as follows:

3) Adding a surfactant to the hair base by thorough stirring;

Evaluation:

The appearance of each of the obtained leave-on oils was visually observed.

The results are summarized in table 7.

TABLE 7

Measurement of size of reverse micelles

The size of the reverse micelles was characterized using a Brookhaven Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) device. The main experimental parameters set for the DLS experiments are listed in table 8.

TABLE 8

The effective diameter and polydispersity index were obtained from at least three measurements. The average effective diameters and average polydispersity indices are summarized in table 9.

Polydispersity index (PDI) is a dimensionless measure of the width of the size distribution calculated from the cumulative amount analysis. This value should be 0 to 1. If the value is higher than 1, the sample may not be suitable for measurement by DLS.

TABLE 9

	Average effective diameter (nm)	Average polydispersity index
			IE.1	7.13±0.04	0.082±0.009
IE.2	4.57±0.03	0.086±0.016
			IE.3	6.84±0.04	0.065±0.013
IE.4	2.23±0.03	0.070±0.043
			IE.5	1.61±0.07	0.119±0.057
IE.6	1.59±0.07	0.191±0.035

Figures 1-6 show the multimodal size distribution of the leave-on oils of examples 1-6 of the present invention.

As can be seen from Table 9 in conjunction with FIGS. 1-6, each of the leave-on oils of examples 1-6 of the present invention achieved an average polydispersity of less than 1. Thus, it was shown that reverse micelles having the average effective diameters as shown in table 9 were formed, and that they were stable in the leave-on oils of examples 1 to 6 of the present invention over time.

Claims

1. A transparent anhydrous composition for conditioning or care of keratin materials, comprising:

a) A continuous oily phase containing at least one oil;

C) A dispersed phase containing an organic solvent,

Wherein both the nonionic surfactant and the ionic surfactant are lipophilic.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the oil is selected from the group consisting of branched alkane oils containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, triglycerides, ether hydrocarbon-based oils having C ₈-C₁₂ alkyl groups, polydimethylsiloxane optionally containing dimethylsilanol end groups, and combinations thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil is present in an amount of 80 to 98.5 wt%, preferably 85 to 97.5 wt%, more preferably 88 to 94 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the nonionic surfactant has at least one C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chain, preferably a C ₁₂-C₂₂ alkyl chain.

5. The composition of any one of claims 1-4, wherein the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.01 wt% to 20 wt%, preferably 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, more preferably 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, most preferably 0.5 wt% to 4 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition of any one of claims 1-5, wherein

The ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and combinations thereof,

The anionic surfactant has at least one C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chain, preferably two C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chains, more preferably two C ₆-C₁₂ alkyl chains;

The cationic surfactant has at least one C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chain, preferably two C ₆-C₂₂ alkyl chains, more preferably two C ₁₂-C₁₂ alkyl chains.

7. The composition of any one of claims 1-6, wherein the ionic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.01 wt% to 5wt%, preferably 0.1 wt% to 2wt%, more preferably 0.1 wt% to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition of any one of claims 1-7, wherein the organic solvent is selected from organic alcohols.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1-8, wherein the organic solvent is present in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.2 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.3 to 2 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1-9, further comprising at least one cosmetic active ingredient having a solubility in the organic solvent of not less than 10 g.

11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the cosmetic active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of avobenzone, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, 2-oleamido-1, 3-octadecanediol, N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine, hydroxypalmitoyl dihydrosphingosine, salicylic acid, and combinations thereof.

12. The composition according to claim 10 or 11, wherein the cosmetic active ingredient is present in an amount of 0.001 to 5wt%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt%, and more preferably 0.1 to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition of claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

b) 0.1 to 1.0 wt% of at least one cationic surfactant selected from dialkyl dimethyl ammonium halides wherein each alkyl group contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and 0.1 to 1.0 wt% of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from polyglycerol mono-, di-, or tri-oleates containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, or tri-isostearates containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, and combinations thereof;

c) 0.3 to 2 weight percent of at least one organic solvent selected from the group consisting of ethanol, octyldodecanol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, and combinations thereof; and

D) 0.1 to 1 wt% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from avobenzone, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, 2-oleoyl-1, 3-octadecanediol, N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine, hydroxypalmitoyl dihydrosphingosine, salicylic acid, and combinations thereof, wherein both the nonionic surfactant and the cationic surfactant are lipophilic.

14. The composition of any one of claims 1-13, which is a leave-on product.

15. A cosmetic process for conditioning or caring for keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.