CN116744902A

CN116744902A - Water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic

Info

Publication number: CN116744902A
Application number: CN202280011810.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 东竜太
Original assignee: Kose Corp
Current assignee: Kose Corp
Priority date: 2021-01-29
Filing date: 2022-01-24
Publication date: 2023-09-12
Also published as: TW202245730A; WO2022163571A1; JPWO2022163571A1; KR20230137296A

Abstract

Disclosed is a water-in-oil type mascara which has a smooth feel during use, which exhibits excellent curling-up and thickening effects in the immediate vicinity of the start of application of a makeup to eyelashes, and which can exhibit effects corresponding to the number of times of application of the makeup, and which is excellent in makeup film retention, cosmetic retention such as being less likely to bleed out, emulsifying properties, and storage stability. [ solution ] A water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic comprising (A) an animal/plant wax having a melting point of 60-90 ℃, a polar resin which is solid at 25 ℃, 0.1-5% by mass of a dextrin fatty acid ester containing 50mol% or more of a linear saturated fatty acid ester, (D) water, and 0.1-5.0% by mass of a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 10-15.

Description

Water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic

Technical Field

The present application relates to a water-in-oil type mascara.

Background

The mascara is a cosmetic having a cosmetic effect that highlights the impression of eyes, such as an upward curling effect of curling up eyelashes, a thickening effect of making the eyelashes look thick and thick, and the like. The constituent components are mainly solid fats, for example, waxes, resins, powders, film forming agents, water-soluble polymers, and the like, and other raw materials are blended and studied according to the intended feel and functionality of use. As a formulation of cosmetics for eyelashes, there are roughly classified 3 types of oil-in-water type, oil type and water-in-oil type, and in particular, water-in-oil type has the following advantages: the oil-based cosmetic compositions have excellent curling effect, thickening effect, etc., and are more sensitive to light and moisture than the oil-in-water type cosmetic compositions, and are therefore in the market. In particular, in overseas around europe and america, unlike japan, which likes natural eyelash states, water-in-oil type, which is a more conspicuous eyelash state, is more popular, and thus can achieve both of a cosmetic effect and a feeling of use.

It is known that water-in-oil cosmetics have both good cosmetic effect and usability, and good perspiration resistance and water resistance, but have disadvantages of poor storage stability and easy change of properties. The property change may be exemplified by, for example: the addition of the high-melting solid fat increases the total amount of the solid fat, and thus the cosmetic becomes hard with time, and the adhesion to eyelashes is reduced, and the emulsion is insufficiently stabilized and the smooth feeling of use is lost with time. Therefore, it is currently proposed to improve the storage stability while maintaining the good function of the water-in-oil type mascara. For example, there has been proposed a water-in-oil type mascara which has excellent adhesion to eyelashes and excellent storage stability by blending a nonionic surfactant, a (eicosene/vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer, and a dextrin fatty acid ester, thereby achieving a cosmetic effect such as curling up and thickening effects (see, for example, patent document 1).

In order to improve the storage stability, it has been proposed to blend an organically modified clay mineral such as disteardimonium hectorite or disteardimonium bentonite (for example, refer to patent document 2).

Prior art literature

Patent literature

Patent document 1 Japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2005-170847

Patent document 2 Japanese patent application laid-open No. 2001-506608

Disclosure of Invention

In the technique of patent document 1, although the effect of improving the storage stability by the nonionic surfactant and the dextrin fatty acid ester is observed, there is room for improvement in both the cosmetic effect and the storage stability. In particular, the adhesion to eyelashes is insufficient by blending only the (eicosene/vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer, and slipping at the start of application when applying to eyelashes is observed in the example using the silicone resin in combination, and it is also difficult to obtain the cosmetic effect by the overlapping cosmetics.

In the technique of patent document 2, although a certain improvement effect is observed in terms of storage stability, it cannot be said that the improvement effect is sufficient, and there is room for improvement in the cosmetic effect.

The present inventors have made intensive studies in view of the above problems, and as a result, have found that a water-in-oil type mascara composition comprising an animal and plant wax having a melting point of 60 to 90 ℃, a polar resin which is solid at 25 ℃, a dextrin fatty acid ester, water, and a specific nonionic surfactant has a smooth feel in use, and exhibits a thickening effect in the immediate moment due to excellent adhesion at the start of application when the composition is applied to the eyelashes, and is excellent in film retention such as curl retention effect, and in cosmetic retention such as not easily oozing, emulsifying property, and storage stability, and have completed the present application.

That is, the present application includes the following techniques.

[1] A water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic comprising the following components (A) to (E):

(A) Animal and plant wax with melting point of 60-90 DEG C

(B) Polar resin solid at 25 DEG C

(C) 0.1 to 5% by mass of dextrin fatty acid ester containing 50% by mass or more of linear saturated fatty acid ester

(D) Water and its preparation method

(E) 0.1 to 5.0 mass% of a nonionic surfactant having a polyoxyethylene chain and having an HLB of 10 to 15,

the content ratio of the component (C) and the component (E) [ C) + (E) ] to the component (A) and the component (B) [ A) + (B) ] is 0.10 to 0.70.

[2] The water-in-oil type mascara according to [1], further comprising, as component (F), 1 or more than 2 kinds selected from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils which are solid at 50 ℃ unlike component (A) and component (B).

[3] The water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic according to [2], wherein the content ratio (A)/(A) + (F) of the component (A) relative to the components (A) and (F) is 0.5 or more and less than 1.0.

[4] The water-in-oil type mascara according to [2] or [3], wherein the content of the silicone resin (component G) other than the components (B) and (F) is 2.0% by mass or less.

[5] The water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the component (B) contains 1 or 2 or more selected from the group consisting of dextrin fatty acid esters having less than 50mol% of straight-chain saturated fatty acid esters, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers having an alkyl chain of C16 or more and hydroabietyls.

[6] The water-in-oil type mascara according to any one of [1] to [5], further comprising a nonaqueous (meth) acrylic polymer emulsion as component (H).

[7] The water-in-oil type mascara according to any one of [1] to [6], wherein, for an 800 μm coating film of the water-in-oil type mascara, a cylinder having a diameter of 1cm is pressed against the coating film at a rate of 0.5mm/sec and a load value of 200g during drying at room temperature for 60 minutes to 120 minutes, and the stress value X at which the coating film is peeled off at a rate of 0.5mm/sec is the stress value per unit load value: the instant when the value of X/200 exceeds 1.

The present technology can be further additionally used with the following configuration.

[8] The water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic according to any one of [4] to [7], wherein the content ratio (G)/(A) + (B) of the component (G) relative to the total amount of the components (A) and (B) is less than 0.15.

[9] The water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [8], wherein the component (B) is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by mass.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a graph showing the evaluation of tackiness of a cosmetic coating film (relationship of room temperature drying time to stress value per unit load g: X/200 of example 1).

Detailed Description

The present application is described in detail below. In the present specification, the term "%" alone may be referred to as "% by mass" and "to" may mean a range including numerical values before and after the term "%". Unless otherwise specified, the measurement of the operation, physical properties, and the like is performed under the conditions of room temperature (20 to 25 ℃) and relative humidity 45 to 55% RH.

The water-in-oil type mascara according to the present application has a smooth feel in use, and is excellent in adhesion at the start of application when the makeup is applied to the eyelashes, and thus provides a water-in-oil type mascara which can exhibit a thickening effect instantaneously, can provide a cosmetic film retention property such as an effect corresponding to the number of times of application of the makeup, and is excellent in cosmetic film retention properties such as a good curl-up effect, less likely to bleed out, emulsifying properties, and storage stability.

As described above, it is difficult to improve the emulsifying property and stability of a water-in-oil type cosmetic having a smooth feel in use as compared with an oily cosmetic while maintaining the cosmetic effect and its durability. The present application exhibits its effects by organically integrating the components. It is considered that an oil layer composed of an animal and vegetable wax having a melting point of 60 to 90 ℃ and a polar resin solid at 25 ℃ exhibits a cosmetic effect and an effect of excellent persistence, and that a combination of dextrin fatty acid ester and a specific nonionic surfactant provides a water-in-oil type cosmetic having excellent emulsion property and stability by stabilizing the interface of the water layer in the oil layer.

The components contained in the water-in-oil type mascara cosmetic of the present application will be described below.

The component (A) used in the present application is an animal and vegetable wax having a melting point of 60 to 90 ℃. The melting point herein means a melting point measured by the standard general test method (method 2) of Japanese quasi-drug materials. The component (a) may be any animal or vegetable wax that is generally used in cosmetics. Examples of the animal and vegetable waxes include vegetable fats and animal fats, and are solid oils with high polarity. Specifically, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, beeswax, carnauba wax (carnauba wax), carnauba wax extract (resin extracted from carnauba wax), candelilla wax, wood wax, sunflower seed wax, rice bran wax, and the like can be cited. The component (a) preferably contains at least 1 selected from the group consisting of beeswax, carnauba wax (carnauba wax) and carnauba wax extract (resin extracted from carnauba wax), and the component (a) preferably contains at least 1 selected from the group consisting of beeswax, carnauba wax and carnauba wax extract (resin extracted from carnauba wax). By using these, a good water-in-oil type mascara composition having further improved storage stability and adhesion to eyelashes can be obtained. In addition, from the viewpoints of adhesion, cosmetic film retention, and less bleeding, the component (a) preferably contains at least carnauba wax. In addition, from the viewpoints of adhesion to eyelashes, cosmetic film retention, and difficulty in exudation, it is preferable to use beeswax, carnauba wax, and carnauba wax extract (resin extracted from carnauba wax) in combination.

The content of the component (a) in the water-in-oil type mascara according to the present application is not particularly limited, but is preferably 6.0% by mass or more (hereinafter referred to as%) and more preferably 8.0% by mass or more and more preferably 10.0% by mass or more, and from the viewpoint of the film retention property, more preferably more than 10.0% and preferably 17.0% by mass or less, more preferably 16.0% by mass or less, more preferably 15.0% by mass or less, and particularly preferably less than 15.0% by mass. When the content is within this range, the adhesion to eyelashes is further improved, and the cosmetic film retention and the cosmetic retention such as the difficulty in bleeding are also improved, which is preferable. The component (A) may be used in an amount of 1 kind, or may be used in an amount of 2 or more kinds.

The component (B) used in the present application is a polar resin which is solid at 25 ℃. In the present application, the solid means a substance which is not deformed and does not exhibit fluidity in an environment of 1 atm at 25 ℃ under no load. In the present application, "polar resin" means: a substance having a polar group in a chemical structure, which is dissolved in an organic solvent and remains as a film-like polymer substance after the solvent is volatilized. The organic solvent is, for example, isododecane, acetone or hexane. The component (B) is not particularly limited, and specifically includes those having an alkyl group having a carbon number of C16 or more, or those having a pyrrolidone skeleton or a abietic acid (rosin) skeleton. Further, the component (B) is preferably a dextrin fatty acid ester having less than 50mol% of a linear saturated fatty acid ester, a polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymer having an alkyl chain of not less than 16 carbon atoms, a hydroabietyl ester or the like. These may be used in the form of 1 kind, or in the form of a combination of 2 or more kinds. Specifically, the component (B) is exemplified by dextrin isostearate, eicosene/Vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymer, hydroabietyl glyceride, pentaerythritol hydroabietate, and among these, the component (B) is particularly preferably at least 1 selected from the group consisting of hydroabietyl glyceride, dextrin isostearate, and eicosene/vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, and more preferably dextrin isostearate and/or eicosene/vinylpyrrolidone copolymer. By selecting the above material as the component (B), a good water-in-oil type mascara composition having a further improved holding property of the cosmetic film and adhesion to eyelashes can be obtained.

The content of the component (B) in the water-in-oil type mascara according to the present application is preferably 1.0% or more, more preferably 2.0% or more, still more preferably 3.0% or more, and is preferably 6.0% or less, more preferably 5.0% or less, still more preferably less than 5.0%, still more preferably 4.0% or less, as a lower limit. When the content is within this range, the adhesion to eyelashes is further improved, and the makeup retention such as the cosmetic film retention is also improved, which is preferable. In addition, 1 kind or 2 or more kinds may be combined.

The component (C) used in the present application is a dextrin fatty acid ester containing 50mol% or more (upper limit 100 mol%) of a linear saturated fatty acid ester. The linear saturated fatty acid ester contained in the component (C) is 50mol% or more (upper limit 100 mol%), preferably 75mol% or more, and more preferably 90mol% or more. The content of the linear saturated fatty acid ester contained in the component (C) is not less than the lower limit, whereby the storage stability and the emulsion stability are improved.

The average degree of polymerization of the dextrin in the dextrin fatty acid ester of the component (C) is preferably 3 to 150, more preferably 10 to 100, and even more preferably 20 to 80.

From the viewpoints of storage stability and emulsion stability, the fatty acid contained in the dextrin fatty acid ester of the component (C) preferably has 2 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and still more preferably 14 to 18 carbon atoms. Examples of the dextrin fatty acid ester of the component (C) include dextrin palmitate, dextrin (palmitic acid/2-ethylhexanoic acid) ester (content of dextrin palmitate is 50mol% or more), dextrin myristate and the like. These components (C) may be used in an amount of 1 or 2 or more, as required. As component (C), dextrin palmitate is preferably used from the viewpoint of compatibility and uniform dispersibility with component (a), i.e., an animal and plant wax having a melting point of 60 to 90 ℃ and component (B), i.e., a polar resin solid at 25 ℃. Examples of the commercial products of the component (C) include Leoparl KL2 (dextrin palmitate (100 mol% of linear saturated fatty acid ester), dextrin having an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 20), leoparl TL2 (dextrin palmitate (100 mol% of linear saturated fatty acid ester), dextrin having an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 20), leoparl TT2 (dextrin (palmitic acid/2-ethylhexanoic acid) ester (87 mol% of palmitic acid, 13 mol% of 2-ethylhexanoic acid), and dextrin having an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 30) (all manufactured by Qianye milling Co., ltd.). In the present application, the effect of the component (C) of suppressing crystallization of the animal and plant wax having a melting point of 60 to 90 ℃ relative to the component (A) is exerted, whereby the crystal size is uniformly and neatly reduced, the dispersibility, that is, the uniform dispersibility is improved when the powder is blended, and the effect as an emulsification aid is improved, whereby a water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic having excellent storage stability and emulsion stability can be obtained.

The content of the component (C) in the water-in-oil type mascara of the present application is 0.1 to 5%. When the content of the component (C) is less than 0.1%, the effect (storage stability, emulsion stability) of the component (C) is not exhibited. When the content of the component (C) exceeds 5%, the smooth feeling of use is remarkably lowered. The content of the component (C) in the water-in-oil type mascara according to the present application is preferably 1.0% or more as a lower limit, more preferably more than 1.0%, still more preferably 2.0% or more, still more preferably 3.0% or more from the viewpoints of adhesion, feel in use, makeup holding property and the like, and is preferably less than 5.0%, still more preferably 4.5% or less, still more preferably 4.0% or less from the viewpoints of film holding property, feel in use and the like as an upper limit. When the content is within this range, the effect of suppressing crystallization of the wax having a melting point of 60 to 90 ℃ of the component (a) and the polar resin of the component (B) and the effect of the dispersant and the emulsification aid as powder are further exhibited, and therefore, the wax is preferable.

The component (D) used in the present application is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include various kinds of water such as purified water, distilled water, hot spring water, deep ocean water, lavender flower water, and the like, and 1 or 2 or more kinds of these may be used in combination as required. The water content in the water-in-oil type mascara according to the present application is preferably 4.0% or more as a lower limit, more preferably more than 4.0%, still more preferably 5.5% or more, still more preferably 7.0% or more from the viewpoint of feeling of use, etc., and is preferably 13.0% or less as an upper limit, more preferably less than 13.0%, still more preferably 11.5% or less, still more preferably 10.0% or less from the viewpoints of adhesion, film retention, etc. When used in this range, a water-in-oil type mascara composition having smoother feel, better feel, and improved thickening feel when applied to eyelashes can be obtained.

The nonionic surfactant having a polyoxyethylene chain and having an HLB of 10 to 15 as the component (E) used in the present application is not particularly limited as long as it is a nonionic surfactant usually used in cosmetics, and examples thereof include polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerol fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene trimethylolpropane fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether and the like, and 1 or 2 or more of these components (E) may be used as required. The nonionic surfactant of the component (E) of the present application may be used in combination with nonionic surfactants other than the nonionic surfactant.

The molar number of ethylene oxide added in the component (E) is preferably 20 to 50. The HLB of the component (E) is preferably 11 to 15, more preferably more than 11 and 14 or less, particularly preferably more than 11 and less than 14. When the content is within this range, a water-in-oil type mascara-based cosmetic having a smooth feel and further improved storage stability can be obtained.

The component (E) preferably has 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the fatty acid moiety and the alkyl moiety, and the fatty acid moiety may be a saturated fatty acid or an unsaturated fatty acid. As the component (E), specifically, PEG (30) hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 11), PEG (40) hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 12), PEG (50) hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 13), PEG (60) hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 14), PEG (80) hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 15), PEG (100) hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 15), PEG (40) hydrogenated castor oil isostearate (HLB 11), PEG (50) hydrogenated castor oil isostearate (HLB 12), PEG (20) glycerol stearate (HLB 14), PEG (30) glycerol stearate (HLB 15), PEG (20) glycerol isostearate (HLB 13), PEG (30) glycerol isostearate (HLB 15), polysorbate 80 (HLB 14), polysorbate 60 (HLB 15), PEG (30) trimethylolpropane trimyristate, PEG (40) trimethylolpropane triisostearate (HLB 11) and the like can be used. Among them, the branched alkyl type is particularly preferable for further improving smooth feeling of use and storage stability, and therefore the component (E) is preferably at least 1 selected from the group consisting of PEG (50) hydrogenated castor oil isostearate (HLB 12) and/or PEG (20) glycerol isostearate (HLB 13) and polysorbate 60 (HLB 15), more preferably PEG (50) hydrogenated castor oil isostearate (HLB 12) and/or PEG (20) glycerol isostearate (HLB 13).

The content of the component (E) in the water-in-oil type mascara of the present application is 0.1 to 5%. When the content of the component (E) is less than 0.1%, the effect of containing the component (E) such as smooth feeling in use, emulsifying property and stability is not exhibited. In addition, when the content of the component (E) exceeds 5%, the makeup holding property such as the difficulty in exudation is remarkably lowered. The content of the component (E) is preferably 0.5% or more as a lower limit, more preferably more than 0.5%, still more preferably 0.75% or more, still more preferably 1.0% or more from the viewpoint of the feel of use, the emulsifying property, the stability, etc., and is preferably less than 5.0%, still more preferably 4.0% or less, still more preferably 3.0% or less from the viewpoint of the adhesion, the cosmetic film retaining effect, etc. When the content is within this range, a water-in-oil type mascara-based cosmetic having a smooth feel and further improved storage stability can be obtained.

In the water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic of the present application, the content ratio [ (C) + (E) ]/[ (A) + (B) ] of the components (C) and (E) is in the range of 0.10 to 0.70, relative to the total mass of the components (A) and (B). The sum (a) + (B) of the components (a) and (B) is the total amount of oil layer components that play a role in cosmetic effects and their persistence effects, and the sum (C) + (E) of the components (C) and (E) is the total amount of emulsification auxiliary components that emulsify the aqueous layer into the oil layer and play a role in the storage stability thereafter. Thus, [ (C) + (E) ]/[ (A) + (B) ] is an indicator of the balance of cosmetic effect and its persistence, storage stability, emulsion stability. When [ (C) + (E) ]/([ (A) + (B) ] is less than 0.10, the feeling in use, the emulsifying property and the stability are remarkably lowered. When [ (C) + (E) ]/(A) + (B) ] exceeds 0.70, exudation by the emulsifying aid occurs, and the makeup retention is remarkably lowered. The content ratio [ (C) + (E) ]/([ (a) + (B) ] of the component (C) and the component (E) relative to the total mass of the component (a) and the component (B) is more preferably in the range of 0.20 to 0.50, and still more preferably in the range of 0.25 to 0.40.

The present application preferably further comprises component (F). The component (F) used in the present application is 1 or 2 or more selected from hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils which are solid at 50 ℃. By further containing the component (F), a water-in-oil type mascara composition having further improved makeup-retaining properties such as less bleeding can be obtained. Component (F) is different from component (A) and component (B). That is, the component (F) is a hydrocarbon-based oil and/or silicone oil which is solid at 50℃except the component (A) and the component (B). Specific examples of the component (F) include hydrocarbon-based solid oils such as montan wax, fischer-Tropsch wax, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, ethylene/propylene copolymer, and vaseline; stearyl dimethicone, C30-45 alkyl dimethicone (and C30-45 olefins) and the like. Among them, the component (F) is preferably a hydrocarbon oil in terms of adhesion. The content of the component (F) in the water-in-oil type mascara composition of the present application is preferably 1% or more, and more preferably 1.5% or more, from the viewpoint of improving the makeup-holding properties such as being less likely to bleed out. The content of the component (F) is preferably 10% or less, and more preferably less than 6.0% from the viewpoints of adhesion, emulsifying property, stability, and the like. In the present application, the content of the component (F) is preferably in a range of 0.5 to less than 1.0, more preferably in a range of 0.5 to 0.9, and even more preferably in a range of 0.6 to 0.85, based on the total mass of the component (a) and the component (F), the content ratio (a)/(a) + (F) of the component (a) being preferably in a range of 0.5 to less than 1.0. When the content is within this range, a water-in-oil type mascara composition which gives both adhesion to eyelashes, smooth feeling of use and no change with time can be obtained. The average value of the melting points of the component (a) and the component (F) is more preferably in the range of 60 to 80 ℃, and a more excellent effect can be obtained in terms of both the difficulty in bleeding and the smooth feeling in use. When the components (a) and (F) are used in combination of 2 or more kinds, the melting point obtained by multiplying the mass ratio of the components is used as the melting point of each component. Specifically, 1:3, the melting point of the component (a) is 70×1/4+80×3/4=77.5 ℃ when the component (a) having a melting point of 70 ℃ and the component (a) having a melting point of 80 ℃.

In the present application, the content of the silicone resin (hereinafter also referred to as component (G)) other than component (B) and component (F) is preferably 2.0% or less. When the content of the other silicone resin is 2.0% or less, it is also easy to obtain excellent makeup retention such as a cosmetic film retention property, a low tendency to bleed out, etc., an adhesion property at the start of application when applying a cosmetic to eyelashes, a cosmetic effect, and a cosmetic effect when superposing a cosmetic. The silicone resin has a main skeleton based on siloxane bond, and has methyl (-CH) bonded to its silicon (Si) ₃ ) The synthetic polymer compound having a main organic group is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used in cosmetics, and specific examples thereof include trimethylsiloxysilicic acid and trifluoroalkyldimethyltrimethylAnd (3) a siloxysilicic acid, a polymethylsilsesquioxane, an acrylic/polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, an acrylic/stearyl acrylate/polydimethylsiloxane methacrylate copolymer, an acrylic/behenyl acrylate/polydimethylsiloxane methacrylate copolymer, a polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, and the like.

The content of the component (G) in the present application is preferably 2.0% or less, more preferably 1.0% or less, and even more preferably substantially no. When the amount is within this range, the starting application of the makeup to the eyelashes can be performed with improved adhesion and makeup effects, and the makeup effects when the makeup is superimposed, particularly with improved adhesion. Here, the content of the component (G) is preferably 0.01% or less, more preferably 0.005% or less, even more preferably 0.001% or less, and particularly preferably 0% or less, which is allowed to be contained substantially as impurities. The content ratio (G)/(a) + (B) of component (G) relative to the mass of component (a) and component (B) is preferably less than 0.15, more preferably less than 0.10. If the amount is within this range, the adhesion at the start of coating is further improved, which is preferable.

The present application preferably further comprises component (H). By containing the component (H), the cosmetic holding properties such as being less likely to bleed out are further improved. The component (H) used in the present application is a nonaqueous (meth) acrylic polymer emulsion, and the nonaqueous (meth) acrylic polymer is a copolymer having a (meth) acrylic structure and a hydrophobic group having 2 to 12 carbon atoms. The nonaqueous emulsion has a core/shell structure, and is obtained by stably dispersing polymer particles insoluble in an organic medium in a core portion of the core/shell structure, thereby forming a particle dispersion system. When the resin is in the form of an emulsion, the dispersed particles of the resin preferably have an average particle diameter of 0.1 to 2.0 μm by a sedimentation method, because the viscosity of the nonaqueous emulsion is less variable and the particles do not precipitate. The concentration of the nonaqueous emulsion is not particularly limited. Examples of commercial products of nonaqueous (meth) acrylic polymer emulsions include ACRYDIC YL-431 (acrylic resin, solid content 50%), TL-696 (acrylic resin, solid content 50%), A-1300 (acrylic resin, solid content 60%), A-1370 (acrylic resin, solid content 53%) (the above is manufactured by Dain ink chemical Co., ltd.); nissetsu U-4315B (alkyl acrylate-vinyl acetate copolymer, solid content 51%), nissetsu U-3700A (alkyl acrylate-styrene copolymer, solid content 48%) (NIPPON CARBIDE INDUSTRIES CO., above, manufactured by INC.) and the like. Among them, the alkyl acrylate-styrene copolymer is preferable because it is less likely to bleed out and the like, and the makeup-retaining property is further improved.

The content of the solid component of the component (H) in the present application is not particularly limited, but is preferably 2.0% or more, more preferably 3.0% or more, further preferably 4.0% or more, and is preferably 8.0% or less, more preferably 7.0% or less, further preferably 6.0% or less, as the lower limit. When the content is within this range, the adhesion to eyelashes is not impaired, and the makeup retention such as the difficulty in bleeding is further improved, which is preferable.

As the adhesiveness at the start of application of the water-in-oil type mascara according to the present application, the adhesiveness of the cosmetic application film was evaluated. The adhesion at the start of application of the water-in-oil type mascara can be indirectly measured by: a coating film of 800 μm was produced by a doctor blade, and a cylinder of 1cm diameter was pressed against the coating film at a rate of 0.5mm/sec and a load value of 200g during a period of 60 minutes to 120 minutes at room temperature, whereby the coating film was peeled off at a rate of 0.5mm/sec, and the stress value per unit load value g was: whether the value of X/200 exceeds 1. As equipment, measurement can be performed using texture analyzer (manufactured by Ying hong Jim Co., ltd.), and the adhesiveness of the coating film can be judged. A water-in-oil type mascara composition having excellent adhesion at the start of application can be obtained by having a value X/200 which is high in adhesion of a cosmetic film exceeding 1 at any time during the drying at room temperature of 60 minutes to 120 minutes.

The cosmetic may contain any suitable components as needed. For example, oils, surfactants, alcohols, water, moisturizers, gelling agents, thickeners, powders, fibers, ultraviolet absorbers, antiseptics, antibacterial agents, antioxidants, components for skin care (whitening agents, cell activators, anti-inflammatory agents, blood circulation promoters, skin astringents, anti-seborrheic agents, etc.), vitamins, amino acids, nucleic acids, hormones, etc. can be blended.

In particular, the gelling agent and the thickener preferably contain an organically modified clay mineral from the viewpoints of adhesion, emulsifying property and stability. Specifically, examples thereof include quaternary ammonium salt modified hectorite such as disteardimonium hectorite and sela ammonium chloride hectorite. The content of the organically modified clay mineral is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.5% or more, and more preferably 1% or more, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil type mascara. The content of the organically modified clay mineral is preferably 10% or less, more preferably 8% or less, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil type mascara.

Further, the oil preferably contains a volatile oil from the viewpoint of enabling rapid formation of a cosmetic film. The volatile oil is volatile at normal temperature (23 ℃). The volatile oil is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used for cosmetics, and examples thereof include volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, volatile ester oils, and the like. Examples of the volatile hydrocarbon oil include isododecane and isohexadecane, examples of the volatile silicone oil include methyl trimethicone, octyl trimethicone, dimethyl polysiloxane (methyl polysiloxane), decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, and ethyl trisiloxane, and examples of the volatile ester oil include ethyl acetate and butyl acetate, and 1 or 2 or more of these may be used in combination. The content of the volatile oil is not limited, but is preferably 20% or more, more preferably 30% or more, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil type mascara. The content of the volatile oil is preferably 90% or less, more preferably 80% or less, and even more preferably 70% or less, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil type mascara.

The powder may be blended for coloring, touch control, etc., and is not particularly limited by the shape of plate, spindle, needle, etc., the particle diameter of haze, fine particles, pigment grade, etc., the particle structure of porous, nonporous, etc., and inorganic powders, glow powders, organic powders, colored pigments, composite powders, polyethylene terephthalate, aluminum-epoxy laminate powders, polyethylene terephthalate, polymethyl methacrylate laminate powders, etc. may be used.

Examples of the form of the water-in-oil type mascara according to the present application include solid, paste, gel, liquid, mousse, and the like. The water-in-oil type mascara according to the present application is not particularly limited as long as it is a mascara usable for eyelashes, and may be a base in addition to so-called mascara.

Examples

The present application will be described in further detail with reference to the following examples, but the present application is not limited to these examples.

Examples 1 to 28 and comparative examples 1 to 11: water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic

The water-in-oil type mascara compositions shown in tables 1 to 3 were prepared by the following production methods, and the adhesion/thickening effect, the curling sustaining effect (cosmetic film retention), the smooth feel in use, the difficulty in bleeding (cosmetic retention), the no change in the applied film with time, the emulsifying property and the stability with time, and the adhesion of the applied film to the cosmetic composition were evaluated and judged by the following evaluation methods. The results are also shown in the table.

[ Table 1-1]

[ tables 1-2]

[ Table 2-1]

[ Table 2-2]

TABLE 3

(production method: tables 1 to 3)

A. Heating the components (1) - (10) to 110 ℃, and uniformly mixing.

B. The components (26) to (29) were uniformly dispersed.

C. The components (11) to (25) are added to the component B and uniformly dispersed.

D. The components (30) to (32) are uniformly dispersed.

E. D was added to C and emulsified.

F. E is filled in a container to prepare the product.

(evaluation method)

The following evaluation items were each evaluated by the following methods.

(evaluation item)

a. Adhesion and thickening effects

b. Curl retention effect (cosmetic film retention)

c. Smooth feel in use

d. Is not easy to exude (make-up holding)

e. Temporal variation of non-coated film

f. Emulsifying property and stability with time

g. Tackiness of cosmetic coating film

For the evaluation items a to e, experiments were performed in which 10 panelists used each sample, each panelist was evaluated in 7 stages according to the following absolute evaluation criteria, and the average value of the scores of all panelists was calculated for each sample, and the evaluation was performed according to the following 4-stage evaluation criteria.

The following evaluation items were evaluated by the following methods.

(evaluation item) (evaluation viewpoint)

Evaluation item a. Regarding the adhesion/thickening effect, it was visually evaluated whether or not the eyelashes were thickened by adhering a paste thereto when each sample was applied to the eyelashes.

Evaluation item b. For the curl retention effect (cosmetic film retention), each sample was applied to eyelashes, panelists were asked to live normally, and whether the curl force was reduced after 6 hours compared with immediately after application was evaluated.

Evaluation item c. For smooth feel in use, it was evaluated whether each sample was less resistant and easily spread when applied to eyelashes.

Evaluation item d. Each sample was applied to eyelashes for less bleeding (makeup retention), and panelists were asked to live normally to evaluate whether bleeding to the periphery of the applied portion was observed after 6 hours.

Evaluation item e. Each sample was applied to eyelashes 1 month after production for the change with time of no coating film, and the results of a to d immediately after production were compared and evaluated.

(absolute evaluation criterion)

(score): (evaluation)

6: very good

5: good quality

4: slightly good

3: ordinary use

2: slightly worse

1: difference of difference

0: very poor.

(5 stage determination reference)

(determination): (average score)

Very good: more than 5.5 points: best to do

And (3) the following materials: more than 5 minutes and less than 5.5 minutes: very good

O: more than 3.5 minutes and less than 5 minutes: good quality

Delta: more than 2 minutes and 3.5 minutes or less: slightly bad

X: the following is 2 minutes: poor quality.

Regarding the evaluation item f, the emulsifying property and the stability with time, in the production method d, each phase was uniformly dispersed, and the state of the paste immediately after production and after storage at 50 ℃ for 1 month was visually observed as to whether or not the paste was colored or agglomerated, and the state of the paste after storage at 50 ℃ for 1 month was judged by the following judgment criteria.

(4 stage determination reference)

And (3) the following materials: the oil phase and the water phase are uniformly dispersed, and no color spots or caking is observed.

O: the oil and water phases disperse, but a slight color stain or small clumping is visible.

Delta: the oil and water phases disperse, but a noticeable stain or large clump is visible.

X: the oil phase and the water phase are not uniformly dispersed.

Regarding the evaluation item g, the adhesiveness of the cosmetic coating film was judged by: for a coating film of 800 μm, a cylinder of 1cm diameter was pressed against the coating film at a load value of 200g at a rate of 0.5mm/sec during a period of 60 minutes to 120 minutes at room temperature, and the adhesion of the cosmetic film at the start of coating was evaluated as excellent as whether or not the value of X/200 exceeded 1, and the adhesion at the start of coating was high at any time during the period of 60 minutes to 120 minutes at room temperature.

In FIG. 1, the evaluation of the tackiness of the cosmetic coating film (the relationship between the room temperature drying time and the stress value per unit load g: X/200 in example 1) is shown.

(2 stage determination reference)

O: a value exceeding 1

X: the value is 1 or less.

As is clear from the results shown in tables 1, 2 and 3, the water-in-oil type mascara according to examples 1 to 28 of the present application had a smooth feel in use and excellent in the holding properties such as the film retention property and the difficulty in bleeding, the adhesion to the skin and eyelashes, and the uniform dispersibility, as compared with the water-in-oil type mascara according to comparative examples 1 to 11. The Δ in the evaluation results of examples is a result that the average score of all scores exceeded 3.0. In comparative example 1 containing no component (a), the adhesion was unsatisfactory. In addition, the adhesive force is weak, and thus the cosmetic film retention is also unsatisfactory. Comparative examples 2 and 9 containing no component (B) were unsatisfactory in terms of adhesion, as in comparative example 1. In addition, the adhesive force is weak, and thus the cosmetic film retention is also unsatisfactory. In comparative example 3 containing no component (C), the crystallization of the wax was not suppressed, and the uniformity of dispersion (emulsifying property) was unsatisfactory, and the change with time of the coating film was observed. In comparative example 4 containing no component (D), the smooth feeling in use and the uniform dispersibility (emulsifying property) were not satisfactory. Comparative example 5 containing no component (E) was unsatisfactory in terms of smooth feeling in use and uniform dispersibility (emulsifying property) as in comparative example 4. In comparative example 7 in which the content of the component (E) exceeds 5%, the cosmetic retention is unsatisfactory. In comparative example 6 in which the content of the component (C) exceeds 5%, the smooth feeling in use is not satisfactory. In comparative example 8 using hydrogenated castor oil having polyethylene glycol chain PEG (7) of HLB6 as the component (E), the uniformity in dispersibility was also unsatisfactory, and the change with time of the coating film was observed. In comparative example 10 in which (C+E)/(A+B) was less than 0.10, the emulsifying property and stability were unsatisfactory. In comparative example 11 in which (C+E)/(A+B) exceeds 0.70, the cosmetic retention properties such as being less likely to bleed out are unsatisfactory.

Example 29: water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic

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*20: refined candelilla wax SR-3 (manufactured by naturaal-product company, japan) x 21: CIREBELLE 109L (manufactured by CIREBELLE Co., ltd.)

*22: leoparl MKL2 (manufactured by Qianye powder manufacturing Co., ltd.)

*28: SNOW WHITE SPECIAL (manufactured by SONNEBORN, LLC) (manufacturing method)

A. Heating the components (1) - (11) to 110 ℃, and uniformly mixing.

B. The components (12) to (14) were uniformly dispersed.

C. B and components (15) to (24) are added to A and uniformly dispersed.

D. The components (25) to (35) were uniformly dispersed.

E. D was added to C and emulsified.

F. Filling E into a container to obtain the product.

The water-in-oil type mascara of example 29 had smooth feel in use and was excellent in all of makeup-holding properties such as film retention, non-bleeding, etc., adhesion, uniform dispersibility, emulsifying properties and stability with time. In the water-in-oil type mascara of example 27, [ (C) + (E) ]/[ (a) + (B) ] =4/14.5=0.28, (a)/[ (a) + (F) ] =13/15=0.86. The value of X/200 is more than 1 at any time when the film is dried at room temperature for 60 to 120 minutes.

Example 30: water-in-oil type mascara base cosmetic

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*23: rice wax SS-1 (Boso oil and fat Co., ltd.)

*24: sunflower seed wax (manufactured by Pimenta industries Co., ltd.)

*25: CIREBELLE 108 (manufactured by CIREBELLE Co., ltd.)

*26: leoparl TT2 (Qianye powder manufacturing Co., ltd.)

*27: AMIHOPE LL (manufactured by Weisu corporation)

(manufacturing method)

A. Heating the components (1) - (12) to 110 ℃, and uniformly mixing.

B. The components (13) to (15) were uniformly dispersed.

C. B and components (16) to (25) are added to A and uniformly dispersed.

D. The components (26) to (37) were uniformly dispersed.

E. D was added to C and emulsified.

F. Filling E into a container to obtain the product.

The water-in-oil type mascara base cosmetic of example 30 had smooth feel in use and was excellent in makeup film retention, makeup retention such as not easy to bleed out, adhesion, uniform dispersibility, emulsifying properties, and stability with time. In the water-in-oil type mascara base cosmetic of example 28, [ (C) + (E) ]/[ (a) + (B) ] =4/15=0.27, (a)/[ (a) + (F) ] =14/16=0.88. The value of X/200 exceeds 1 at any time during the period of 60 to 120 minutes of drying at room temperature.

The present application is based on japanese patent application No. 2021-012577, filed on 1/29 of 2021, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference in its entirety.

Claims

1. A water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic comprising the following components (A) to (E):

(A) Animal and plant wax with melting point of 60-90 DEG C

(B) Polar resin solid at 25 DEG C

(D) Water and its preparation method

2. The water-in-oil type mascara according to claim 1, further comprising 1 or more than 2 kinds of hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils, which are solid at 50 ℃, as component (F), other than the component (a) and the component (B).

3. The water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein the content ratio of the component (a)/(a) + (F) to the component (a) and the component (F) is 0.5 or more and less than 1.0.

4. The water-in-oil type mascara according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the content of the silicone resin (component G) other than the components (B) and (F) is 2.0 mass% or less.

5. The water-in-oil type mascara according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the component (B) contains 1 or 2 or more kinds selected from the group consisting of dextrin fatty acid esters having less than 50mol% of straight-chain saturated fatty acid esters, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers having an alkyl chain of a carbon number of C16 or more, and hydroabietyls.

6. The water-in-oil type mascara according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising a nonaqueous (meth) acrylic polymer emulsion as component (H).

7. The water-in-oil mascara according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein, for a 800 μm coating film of the water-in-oil mascara, a cylinder having a diameter of 1cm is pressed against the coating film at a rate of 0.5mm/sec and a load value of 200g during drying at room temperature for 60 minutes to 120 minutes, and there is a stress value per unit load value of X at which the coating film is peeled at a rate of 0.5 mm/sec:

the instant when the value of X/200 exceeds 1.