CN115996697A - Cosmetic composition with improved penetration - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition with improved penetration Download PDF

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Publication number
CN115996697A
CN115996697A CN202180046591.4A CN202180046591A CN115996697A CN 115996697 A CN115996697 A CN 115996697A CN 202180046591 A CN202180046591 A CN 202180046591A CN 115996697 A CN115996697 A CN 115996697A
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Prior art keywords
oil
cosmetic composition
hydroxypropane
propan
acid
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
J·J·法伊
D·陈
S·哈尔彭
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority claimed from US16/916,569 external-priority patent/US11534381B2/en
Priority claimed from FR2009056A external-priority patent/FR3113836B1/en
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of CN115996697A publication Critical patent/CN115996697A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Abstract

A cosmetic composition for improving penetration of a skin active agent comprising about 0.1 to about 10wt.% of a C-glycoside; about 0.1 to about 5wt.% polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate; about 0.1 to about 5wt.% sodium polyacrylate; and water, wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Also disclosed are methods of treating damaged skin with the cosmetic compositions.

Description

Cosmetic composition with improved penetration
Cross Reference to Related Applications
The present application claims the benefit of U.S. application Ser. No. 16/916,569, filed on even 30 th 6/2020, and French patent application No. 2009056, filed on even 7/9/2020, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties.
FIELD OF THE DISCLOSURE
The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that provide improved penetration, and in particular to cosmetic compositions that provide improved penetration without the use of commonly used penetration enhancers. In addition, aspects of the present disclosure relate to methods of treating damaged skin with cosmetic compositions.
BACKGROUND OF THE DISCLOSURE
The skin acts as a natural barrier between the internal and external environment and thus plays an important role in important biological functions, such as protection against mechanical and chemical damage, microorganisms and uv damage. However, the health and appearance of skin can be degraded by environmental factors, genetic makeup, nutrition, and sun exposure.
Environmental pollution conditions are rapidly deteriorating and are becoming more apparent in the daily lives of consumers worldwide. Contamination damage to human skin is also becoming more and more evident. Human skin is also subject to a wide variety of damage caused by external factors such as Ultraviolet (UV) radiation, environmental pollution, wind, heat, infrared radiation, low humidity, harsh surfactants, abrasives, and the like. Recent studies suggest that besides UV radiation, other environmental factors (in particular air pollution) also contribute to the development of solar spots. These factors ultimately lead to visible signs of skin damage, including small brown spots on the skin, especially in elderly people.
Typical skin lesions include fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, sallowness, sagging, dark under-eye circles, swollen eyes, enlarged pores, visible dead skin, i.e., flaking (scaling), dryness, and roughness. Consumers want to slow down skin damage and reduce the effects of aging, especially around the face and eyes. Skin that is shiny and clear appears to be a sign of good health and vigor. Thus, there is a continuing need for new and improved formulations that improve the health and visual appearance of skin.
Summary of the disclosure
The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that provide improved penetration of a desired skin active agent into adult skin. The inventors have found that certain amounts and combinations of ingredients enable cosmetic compositions to provide improved penetration of the desired skin active agent without the use of conventional penetration enhancers.
Cosmetic compositions according to one aspect of the present disclosure generally comprise:
(a) About 0.1 to about 10wt.% of a C-glycoside;
(b) About 0.1 to about 5wt.% polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate;
(c) About 0.1 to about 5wt.% sodium polyacrylate; and
(d) The water is used as the water source,
wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Suitable C-glycosides that may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition include those selected from the group consisting of: C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C-beta-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C-alpha-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C-beta-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C-alpha-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C-beta-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C-alpha-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C-beta-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C-alpha-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C-alpha-D-glucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- β -D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- α -D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- β -D-fucopyranosyl) propan-2-one, 1- (C- α -D-fucopyranosyl) propan-2-one, 1- (C- β -L-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one, 1- (C- α -L-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one, C- β -D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- α -D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- β -D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, isomers thereof, mixtures thereof, and combinations thereof. In at least some embodiments, the C-glycoside comprises at least one of C- β -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C- α -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane. In at least one instance, the C-glycoside is C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
The cosmetic composition may further comprise from about 1 to about 30wt.% of a polyol. Suitable polyols may include those selected from the group consisting of: ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, octylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes from about 0.1 to about 10wt.% of a gloss reducing agent. The degreasing agent may be aluminum starch octenyl succinate. Additionally or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may include from about 0.5 to about 10wt.% oil. The oil may be silicone and/or may be selected from coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard oil, camelina oil, pennycress oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, almond oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, rapeseed oil, juniper oil, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic composition may include from about 0.05 to about 5wt.% of a thickener other than sodium polyacrylate. In some cases, the thickener other than sodium polyacrylate is selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacryl dimethyl taurate, ammonium acryl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymer, polyacrylamide, carbomer, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, acrylate/behenate polyether-25 methacrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
Skin active agents in an amount of about 0.05 to about 5wt.% may be included in the cosmetic composition. Non-limiting examples of skin active agents include hyaluronic acid, lanolin, nicotinamide, citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, octanoylsalicylic acid, retinoids, retinal, retinol, adenosine, sodium hyaluronate, retinoic acid, carotenoids, panthenol, amino acids, proteins, enzymes, coenzymes, or mixtures thereof.
In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes from about 0.1 to about 20wt.% of a fatty ester other than polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate. Fatty esters other than polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate may include isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride or mixtures thereof.
Detailed description of the disclosure
The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that provide improved penetration of a desired skin active agent into adult skin. As mentioned above, the inventors have discovered that certain amounts and combinations of ingredients enable cosmetic compositions to provide improved penetration of a desired skin active agent without the use of conventional penetration enhancers.
Cosmetic compositions according to one aspect of the present disclosure generally comprise:
(a) About 0.1 to about 10wt.% of a C-glycoside;
(b) About 0.1 to about 5wt.% polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate;
(c) About 0.1 to about 5wt.% sodium polyacrylate; and
(d) The water is used as the water source,
wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In some cases, the cosmetic composition achieves improved penetration of the skin active agent into the skin of an adult. For example, cosmetic compositions may achieve penetration of skin active agents into the epidermis and dermis of the skin. In some cases, the cosmetic composition may obtain about 2 μg/cm in the epidermis and dermis of human skin 2 Or more, 2.1. Mu.g/cm 2 Or more, 2.2. Mu.g/cm 2 Or more, 2.3. Mu.g/cm 2 Or more, 2.4. Mu.g +.cm 2 Or more, 2.5. Mu.g/cm 2 Or more, 2.6. Mu.g/cm 2 Or more, 2.7. Mu.g/cm 2 Or more, 2.8. Mu.g/cm 2 Or more, 2.9. Mu.g/cm 2 Or more, 3. Mu.g/cm 2 Or more skin active agents. In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition achieves improved penetration of the skin active agent without the use of a penetration enhancer.
Some therapeutic or cosmetic compositions achieve epidermal penetration by using a carrier or vehicle that enhances skin penetration. Such carriers or vehicles (which are compounds or mixtures of compounds) are often described as "permeation enhancers" or "skin enhancers". Typical penetration enhancers (optionally excluded from the cosmetic composition) include sulfoxides (e.g., dimethyl sulfoxide, DMSO), azones (e.g., laurocapram
Figure BDA0004026770600000041
Ketones), pyrrolidones (e.g., 2-pyrrolidone, 2P), alcohols and alkanols (ethanol or decanol), surfactants (also common in dosage forms), and terpenes. Some permeation enhancers can intercalate between the hydrophobic tails of the bilayer, thus interfering with its packing, increasing its fluidity, and subsequently leading to easier diffusion of the lipid-like permeation agent. The inventors have unexpectedly found that certain cosmetic compositions according to the present disclosure provide improved penetration of skin active agents into adult skin without the necessity of using certain penetration enhancers. However, in some cases, it may be desirable to include permeation enhancers, such as those discussed herein.
In some cases, the cosmetic composition has 5wt.% or less, 4wt.% or less, 3wt.% or less, 2wt.% or less, or 1wt.% or less of any of the foregoing penetration enhancers. In at least one instance, the cosmetic composition is free or substantially free of any of the foregoing penetration enhancers. Additionally or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may have a total amount of penetration enhancer of about 5wt.% or less, 4wt.% or less, 3wt.% or less, 2wt.% or less, or 1wt.% or less. For example, the cosmetic composition may be free or substantially free of penetration enhancers.
Cosmetic compositions are typically formulated as emulsions. Typically, cosmetic compositions are formulated as oil-in-water emulsions, having a fatty phase emulsified in a hydrophilic phase. However, in some cases, the cosmetic composition may be formulated to have a hydrophilic phase (e.g., alcohol, glycol, polyol, etc.) emulsified in a fatty phase. In some cases, the cosmetic composition may be formulated as a lotion, a concentrate, a cream, a spray, or any other suitable product form.
In addition, the present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin comprising applying the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure to skin. Cosmetic compositions are additionally useful in methods for treating and/or repairing skin lesions due to photoaging, and reducing wrinkles, dark spots, and uneven skin texture. The foregoing methods may be non-therapeutic.
Suitable components (such as those listed below) may be included in or excluded from the formulation for the cosmetic composition, depending on the particular combination of other components, the form of the cosmetic composition, and/or the use of the formulation (e.g., lotions, essences, gels, creams, sprays, etc.).
C-glycoside
The cosmetic composition typically includes C-glycoside in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the amount of C-glycoside present in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.1 to about 10wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 9wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 8wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 7wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 6wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 4wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; about 1 to about 10wt.%, about 1 to about 9wt.%, about 1 to about 8wt.%, about 1 to about 7wt.%, about 1 to about 6wt.%, about 1 to about 5wt.%, about 1 to about 4wt.%; about 2 to about 10wt.%, about 2 to about 9wt.%, about 2 to about 8wt.%, about 2 to about 7wt.%, about 2 to about 6wt.%, about 2 to about 5wt.%, about 2 to about 4wt.%; about 3 to about 10wt.%, about 3 to about 9wt.%, about 3 to about 8wt.%, about 3 to about 7wt.%, about 3 to about 6wt.%, about 3 to about 5wt.%, or about 3 to about 4wt.% (including ranges and subranges therebetween).
Cosmetic compositions may include one or more C-glycosides having a structure according to formula (I), as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates (e.g., hydrates), and their optical and geometric isomers:
Figure BDA0004026770600000051
wherein:
r represents saturated C 1 -C 10 (especially C 1 -C 4 ) Hydrocarbyl groups, which may optionally be selected from OH, COOH or COOR' 2 Wherein R' is substituted by at least one group of " 2 Is saturated C 1 -C 4 A hydrocarbon group,
s represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 saccharide units, in particular up to 6 saccharide units, in the form of pyranose and/or furanose and of the L and/or D series, it being possible for the monosaccharide or polysaccharide to be substituted by positively dissociable hydroxyl groups and optionally by one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and
x represents a group selected from the group consisting of-CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH) 2 )-、-CH(NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -and-CH (CH) 3 ) -groups, and in particular the groups-CO-, -CH (OH) -or-CH (NH) 2 ) -, and more particularly the group-CH (OH) -,
wherein the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond having C-anomeric properties, which may be alpha or beta.
The C-glycoside of the formula (I) preferably has a linear C chain in which R represents saturation 1 -C 6 (especially C 1 -C 4 Preferably C 1 -C 2 ) Hydrocarbyl groups, and more preferably methyl groups. Mention may be made in particular of the following alkyl groups for the C-glycoside (for example R): methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl.
According to at least one embodiment, C-glycoside compounds corresponding to formula (I) can be used, wherein S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 saccharide units, for example in the form of pyranose and/or furanose and in form L and/or D (chiral series). The mono-or polysaccharides exhibit at least one free hydroxyl function and/or optionally one or more protected amine functions, otherwise X and R retain all the definitions given above.
Advantageously, the monosaccharides of the invention may be selected from the group consisting of D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, and advantageously represent D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, L-fucose, and mixtures thereof. In one instance, the monosaccharide is D-xylose.
More particularly, the polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 saccharide units may be selected from the group consisting of D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose; a disaccharide combining an uronic acid selected from the group consisting of D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from the group consisting of D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine; an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose, which may advantageously be selected from the group consisting of xylobiose, methyl- β -xylobiose, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the oligosaccharide is a xylobiose, which consists of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond. More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide selected from the group consisting of D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the monosaccharide is D-xylose.
Preferably, the C-glycoside may be a derivative of formula (I), wherein:
r represents an unsubstituted straight chain C 1 -C 4 (especially C 1 -C 2 ) Alkyl, especially methyl;
-S represents a monosaccharide as described above, and is in particular selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; and is also provided with
X represents a group selected from the group consisting of-CO-, -CH (OH) -and-CH (NH) 2 ) -a group, and preferably the group-CH (OH) -.
The compounds described herein may be in the form of salts. Acceptable salts of the compounds described in this disclosure include conventional non-toxic salts of the compounds, such as those formed with organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, mention may be made of salts of mineral acids (for example sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid). Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfuric or phosphoric groups. Mention may be made in particular of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
When the compound of formula (I) contains an acid group, neutralization of the acid group may be carried out using an inorganic base such as LiOH, naOH, KOH, ca (OH) or an organic base 2 、NH 4 OH、Mg(OH) 2 Or Zn (OH) 2 The organic base is, for example, a primary, secondary or tertiary alkyl amine. For example, triethylamine or butylamine may be used to neutralize the compound of formula (I). The primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and may comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups. Mention may be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2- (dimethylamino) propanol or 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1, 3-propanediol. Lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine may also be mentioned.
Non-limiting examples of solvates that may be used in the cosmetic composition include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparing the compound due to the presence of solvent. By way of example, mention may be made of solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols (for example ethanol or isopropanol). Of course, in accordance with the present disclosure, the C-glycoside derivatives corresponding to formula (I) may be used alone or as a mixture with other C-glycoside derivatives in any ratio.
C-glycoside derivatives suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained in particular by the synthetic method described in document WO 02/051828, which is incorporated herein in its entirety for all purposes.
Non-limiting examples of C-glycoside compounds that may be suitable for use in the cosmetic composition include:
-C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
-C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
-C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
-C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
-1- (C-beta-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,
-1- (C-alpha-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,
-1- (C-beta-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,
-1- (C-alpha-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,
-1- (C-beta-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy propane,
-1- (C-alpha-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy propane,
-1- (C-beta-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy propane,
-1- (C-alpha-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy propane,
-1- (C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,
-1- (C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,
-1- (C-beta-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,
-1- (C-alpha-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,
-1- (C-beta-D-furofucosyl) propan-2-one,
-1- (C-alpha-D-furofucosyl) propan-2-one,
-1- (C-beta-L-furofucosyl) propan-2-one,
-1- (C-alpha-L-furofucosyl) propan-2-one,
-C-beta-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
-C-alpha-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
-C-beta-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
-C- α -D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, isomers thereof, and/or mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic composition may preferably comprise a C-glycoside selected from the group consisting of C- β -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C- α -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the C-glycoside is C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane. According to at least one embodiment, the C-glycoside compound may be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol) provided as a solution containing 30 wt% active material in a water/propylene glycol (60 wt%/40 wt%) mixture.
Polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate
The cosmetic composition includes polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate in an amount that can vary, but is typically present in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 5wt.% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the amount of polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 4wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 3wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 2wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 1wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; about 0.25 to about 5wt.%, about 0.25 to about 4wt.%, about 0.25 to about 3wt.%, about 0.25 to about 2wt.%, about 0.25 to about 1wt.%; about 0.5 to about 5wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3wt.%, about 0.5 to about 2wt.%, about 0.5 to about 1wt.%; about 0.75 to about 5wt.%, about 0.75 to about 4wt.%, about 0.75 to about 3wt.%, about 0.75 to about 2wt.%; about 1 to about 5wt.%, about 1 to about 4wt.%, about 1 to about 3wt.%, or about 1 to about 2wt.% (including ranges and subranges therebetween).
Sodium polyacrylate
The cosmetic composition includes sodium polyacrylate, typically in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the sodium polyacrylate may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2wt.%, about 0.1 to about 1wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; about 0.3 to about 5wt.%, about 0.3 to about 4wt.%, about 0.3 to about 3wt.%, about 0.3 to about 2wt.%, about 0.3 to about 1wt.%; about 0.5 to about 5wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3wt.%, about 0.5 to about 2wt.%, about 0.5 to about 1wt.%; about 0.75 to about 5wt.%, about 0.75 to about 4wt.%, about 0.75 to about 3wt.%, about 0.75 to about 2wt.%; about 1 to about 5wt.%, about 1 to about 4wt.%, about 1 to about 3wt.%, about 1 to about 2wt.%; about 1.25 to about 5wt.%, about 1.25 to about 4wt.%, about 1.25 to about 3wt.%, about 1.25 to about 2wt.% (including ranges and subranges therebetween).
Typically, sodium polyacrylate may be present in the composition in particulate or non-particulate form. When sodium polyacrylates are present in particulate form, their average size in the hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 10 μm, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5 μm. Their average size in the non-hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 2. Mu.m, preferably less than or equal to 1. Mu.m.
Non-limiting examples of commercially available sodium polyacrylate include those sold by Avecia under the names Octacare X100, X110 and RM 100; those sold by SNF under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500; those sold by BASF under the names Luquasorb 1003, luquasorb 1010, luquasorb 1280, and Luquasorb 1100; those sold by Grain Processing under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: acrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer); those sold under the names Aqua Keep 10SH NF, aqua Keep 10SH NFC (sodium acrylate cross-linked polymer-2, supplied by Sumitomo Seika); and/or those sold by Sanyo Chemical Industries under the names Sanfresh ST-100C, ST MC and IM-300MC (INCI name: sodium starch polyacrylate).
Polyhydric alcohol
The cosmetic composition may include one or more polyols. The amount of polyol, if present, in the cosmetic composition may range from about 1 to about 30wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the cosmetic composition may include the following amounts of water-soluble solvents, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition: about 1 to about 30wt.%, about 1 to about 25wt.%, about 1 to about 20wt.%, about 1 to about 18wt.%, about 1 to about 16wt.%, about 1 to about 14wt.%, about 1 to about 12wt.%, about 1 to about 10wt.%; about 5 to about 30wt.%, about 5 to about 25wt.%, about 5 to about 20wt.%, about 5 to about 18wt.%, about 5 to about 16wt.%, about 5 to about 14wt.%, about 5 to about 12wt.%, about 5 to about 10wt.%; about 10 to about 30wt.%, about 10 to about 25wt.%, about 10 to about 20wt.%, about 10 to about 18wt.%, about 10 to about 16wt.%, about 10 to about 14wt.%; about 12 to about 30wt.%, about 12 to about 25wt.%, about 12 to about 20wt.%, about 12 to about 18wt.%, about 12 to about 16wt.%; about 14 to about 30wt.%, about 14 to about 25wt.%, about 14 to about 20wt.%, about 14 to about 18wt.%; about 16 to about 30wt.%, about 16 to about 25wt.%, about 16 to about 20wt.%; about 18 to about 30wt.%, about 18 to about 25wt.%, about 18 to about 20wt.% (including ranges and subranges thereof).
Polyols are useful. The term "polyol" is understood within the meaning of the present disclosure to mean an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. The polyol of the cosmetic composition may be a diol or a compound having a plurality of hydroxyl groups. In some cases, the one or more polyols are selected from C 2 -C 32 A polyol. One or more polyols may be liquid at ambient temperature (25 ℃). The one or more polyols may have 2 to 32 carbon atoms, 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or 3 to 12 carbon atoms.
Non-limiting examples of polyols that may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition include and/or may be selected from alkanediols such as glycerol, 1,2, 6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1, 4-diol, 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, octylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1, 2-pentanediol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, diethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, sorbitol, triacetin, and mixtures thereof. The one or more polyols may optionally be glycols or glycol ethers, such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, such as monomethyl ethers of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol; and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, such as monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
In some cases, the polyhydric alcohol includes glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, 2, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1, 3-butanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2, 4-butanetriol, 1,2, 6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, 3-dimethyl-1, 2-butanediol, 2-diethyl-1, 3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1, 3-propanediol, 2, 4-dimethyl-2, 4-pentanediol, 2, 5-dimethyl-2, 5-hexanediol, 5-hexyl-1, 2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, and mixtures thereof.
In some cases, the polyol is selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, octylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
Oil-removing gloss agent
The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may include a gloss reducing agent. The amount of the degreasing agent in the cosmetic composition may be, for example, about 0.1 to about 10wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2wt.%, about 0.1 to about 1wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; about 0.25 to about 10wt.%, about 0.25 to about 8wt.%, about 0.25 to about 6wt.%, about 0.25 to about 5wt.%, about 0.25 to about 4wt.%, about 0.25 to about 3wt.%, about 0.25 to about 2wt.%, about 0.25 to about 1wt.%; about 0.5 to about 10wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8wt.%, about 0.5 to about 6wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3wt.%, about 0.5 to about 2wt.%, about 0.5 to about 1wt.%; about 0.75 to about 10wt.%, about 0.75 to about 8wt.%, about 0.75 to about 6wt.%, about 0.75 to about 5wt.%, about 0.75 to about 4wt.%, about 0.75 to about 3wt.%, about 0.75 to about 2wt.%; about 1 to about 10wt.%, about 1 to about 8wt.%, about 1 to about 6wt.%, about 1 to about 5wt.%, about 1 to about 4wt.%, about 1 to about 3wt.%, or about 1 to about 2wt.% (including ranges and subranges therebetween).
A gloss reducing agent (also referred to as a "gloss reducing filler") refers to a material that imparts a more transparent and hazy effect to skin and provides a natural and pleasing appearance to the skin without imparting a greasy, sparkling and shiny appearance thereto. For this purpose, these materials are generally absorbent fillers, such as talc, silica, kaolin; or a filler having light scattering optical properties known under the name "soft focusing" effect. In addition to reducing gloss or greasiness, the degreasing agents may contribute to the overall texture and thickness of the cosmetic composition. The polish is typically (but not always) a particulate material or powder.
Cosmetic compositions containing a gloss reducing agent can be characterized by the following procedure. The test composition was brought to 2mg/cm using a mechanical film diffuser (film diffuser) 2 The rate of (A) is in the range of the control card (Prufkarte type 24/5-250cm sold by Erichsen Co., ltd 2 ) And spread out. The composition was then dried overnight at 37 ℃ before its reflection was measured using a goniophotometer sold by Micromodule company. The specular reflection intensity at 30 ° (R) and the scattering intensity at 90 ° (D) were measured sequentially. The result obtained is the ratio R between specular and diffuse reflection. The proportionally smaller the value of R, the greater the degreasing effect provided by the filler. A value of R less than or equal to 2 is generally indicative of a deoiling effect. The degreasing agents according to the present disclosure include those that give a value of R of less than 1.5, and preferably less than 1, preferably at a content of 5% in the cosmetic composition.
Non-limiting examples of degreasing agents include: silica, clay, silicate derivatives, hydrophobic Silica aerogel particles, porous Silica particles, such as Silica bearings SB150 and SB700 from Miyoshi having an average size of 5 microns; sunsphere H series products from Asahi Glass, such as Sunsphere H33, H51 and H53, each of 3 μm, 5 μm and 5 μm in size; polytetrafluoroethylene powder, e.g.PTFE Ceridust 9205F from Clariant, having an average size of 8 microns; silicone resin powder, such as Silicone resin Tospearl 145A from GE Silicone, having an average size of 4.5 microns; hollow hemispherical silicone particles, such as NLK 500, NLK 506, and NLK 510 from Takemoto Oil and Fat; acrylic copolymer powders (in particular poly (methyl (meth) acrylate) powders), such as PMMA particles juryer MBI from Nihon Junyoki, having an average size of 8 microns; hollow PMMA spheres sold under the name Covabead LH 85 by Wackher company, and vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methylene methacrylate (methylene methacrylate) expanded microspheres sold under the name Expancel; wax powders, such as paraffin wax particles microtase 114S from MicroPowders, having an average size of 7 microns; polyethylene powder, in particular comprising and in particular consisting of at least one ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, such as Flobeads EA 209 particles (with an average size of 10 microns) from Sumitomo; crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resins, especially with silsesquioxane resins, as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold by Shin-Etsu under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105; polyamide (nylon. Rtm.) powder, such as organic nylon 12 particles from Atofina, having an average size of 10 microns; polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powder; talc; silica/TiO 2 Or a silica/zinc oxide composite, styrene/acrylic copolymer powder; and mixtures thereof.
Among the clays, mention may be made of the smectite family of clays, such as laponite (laponite); clays of the kaolinite family, for example kaolinite, dickite or perlite; optionally modified clays of the halloysite, du Mbei saite (dombussite), antigorite, magnetochlorite (berthierine) or pyrophyllite family, montmorillonite, beidellite, vermiculite, talc, stevensite, hectorite, saponite, chlorite, sepiolite and illite (family).
Clays include products described, for example, in publication Mineralogie des argiles [ clay mineral ] (S.Caillere, S.Henin, M.Rautureau, 2 nd edition, 1982, masson), which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Natural clays are sedimentary rocks largely composed of certain minerals (usually aluminosilicates). Kaolin is a natural clay. Clays can also be synthetic. The clay may also be chemically modified with various compounds such as acrylic acid, polysaccharides (e.g., carboxymethyl cellulose), or organic cations. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure include a clay selected from the group consisting of: kaolinite, montmorillonite, saponite, hectorite (including disteardimonium hectorite) and illite.
SILICA derivatives which may be mentioned include SILICA powders, for example porous SILICA microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700 by Miyoshi; products SUNSPHERE H51, SUNSPHERE H33 and SUNSPHERE H53 sold by Asahi Glass company; polydimethylsiloxane coated amorphous silica microspheres sold by Asahi Glass company under the names SA SUNSPHERE H-33 and SA SUNSPHERE H-53; silica microbeads, such as those sold under the name SB150 by Miyoshi corporation.
In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes one or more gloss reducing agents selected from the group consisting of: methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate cross-linked polymer, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsilsesquioxane cross-linked polymer, methyl methacrylate cross-linked polymer, nylon-12, polyamide, polyethylene, talc, titanium dioxide, silica, aluminum starch octenyl succinate, clays (e.g., hectorite clays, including disteardimethylammonium hectorite), silica, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the degreasing agent (if present) is aluminum starch octenyl succinate.
Oil (oil)
Cosmetic compositions comprise one or more oils, such as silicone oils, fluoro oils, hydrocarbon-based oils, and the like. In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes an oil, which is a vegetable-based oil or a vegetable-based oil. The amount of oil and/or vegetable-based oil present in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.1 to about 10wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 8wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 7wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 6wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; about 0.5 to about 10wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8wt.%, about 0.5 to about 7wt.%, about 0.5 to about 6wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5wt.%; about 1 to about 10wt.%, about 1 to about 8wt.%, about 1 to about 7wt.%, about 1 to about 6wt.%, about 1 to about 5wt.%; about 2 to about 10wt.%, about 2 to about 8wt.%, about 2 to about 7wt.%, about 2 to about 6wt.%, about 2 to about 5wt.%; about 3 to about 10wt.%, about 3 to about 8wt.%, about 3 to about 7wt.%, about 3 to about 6wt.%, about 3 to about 5wt.%; about 4 to about 10wt.%, about 4 to about 8wt.%, or about 4 to about 7wt.% (including all ranges and subranges therebetween).
Additionally and/or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may exclude synthetic oils. In some cases, the cosmetic composition may exclude oils other than vegetable-based oils and vegetable-based oils. For example, the amount of synthetic oil and/or oil other than vegetable-based oil and vegetable-based oil may be about 5wt.% or less, about 4wt.% or less, about 3wt.% or less, about 2wt.% or less, about 1wt.% or less, or about 0.5wt.% or less, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is free or substantially free of synthetic oils and/or oils other than vegetable-based oils and vegetable-based oils.
The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Typically, at least one of the oils in the cosmetic composition is part of the oil phase. An "oil phase" is a phase comprising at least one oil that may include additional fat-soluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances. Oils suitable for use herein may be volatile or non-volatile. The term "volatile oil" relates to oils that are capable of evaporating in less than one hour from contact with skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular in the range 0.13Pa-40000 Pa (10) -3 -300 mmHg). The term "non-volatile oil" relates to a composition which remains on the skin or keratin fibres at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and in particular has a content of less than 10 -3 Vapor pressure oil of mmHg (0.13 Pa).
The term "silicone oil" relates to oils comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluoro oil" relates to oils comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" relates to oils comprising mainly hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon-based oil may be a hydrocarbon-based animal oil, a hydrocarbon-based vegetable oil, a hydrocarbon-based mineral oil, or a hydrocarbon-based synthetic oil. Furthermore, suitable oils may be hydrocarbon-based mineral oils, hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils or hydrocarbon-based synthetic oils.
Silicone oil
The cosmetic compositions described herein may comprise one or more silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxane, cyclomethicone, silicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilyl amine-terminated polydimethylsiloxane (trimethyilylammodim) and stearoxy trimethylsilane. In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes polydimethylsiloxane; and optionally additional oils, including additional silicone oils. Typically, the one or more silicone oils are non-volatile silicone oils. In some embodiments, the silicone oil is Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl (trimethylsiloxy) diphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl) trisiloxane or (2-phenylethyl) trimethylsiloxysilicate.
Further examples of silicone oils which may be mentioned include volatile linear silicone oils or cyclic silicone oils, in particular with a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8X 10) 6 m 2 S) and especially those containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl octyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxaneOxygen, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
Fluorine oil
The cosmetic compositions described herein may comprise one or more fluoro oils. For example, the one or more fluoro oils may be selected from perfluoromethyl cyclopentane, perfluoro-1, 3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, bromoperfluorooctyl, nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoroethoxyisobutane, and 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine. Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecylfluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane may also be used.
Hydrocarbon-based oils
The cosmetic compositions described herein may comprise one or more hydrocarbon-based oils. For example, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, a lipid, a triglyceride, a natural oil, and/or a synthetic oil. In some embodiments, the composition comprises a synthetic oil selected from hydrogenated polyisobutene and/or hydrogenated polydecene.
The hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, such as:
(i) Hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, for example triglycerides, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have C 4 -C 24 These chains may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candelaeagnus oil, passion fruit oil and musk rose oil.
(ii) Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
(iii) Straight or branched chain hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (e.g. Parleam) and 40 squalane;
(iv) Synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula RCOOR ', wherein R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ' represents, in particular, a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R+R '. Gtoreq.10, for example, tailed oil (Purcellin oil) (cetyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate; benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters, e.g. under the trade name Finsolv by Witco
Figure BDA0004026770600000141
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Figure BDA0004026770600000142
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Figure BDA0004026770600000143
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Figure BDA0004026770600000144
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Figure BDA0004026770600000145
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(v) Fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and contain branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chains having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;
(vi) Higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid;
(vii) Carbonates, e.g. dioctyl carbonate, e.g. Cetiol by Cognis
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(viii) Fatty amides, e.g. isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, e.g. from Ajinomoto under the trade name Eldew
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(ix) Essential oils selected from sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, sweet pepper berry oil, rose oil, fennel oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedar oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, sclareum oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, pimpinella oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, strawberry oil, orange oil, oregano oil, myrrh oil, orange flower oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, orange leaf oil, pine oil, rose oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, sweet pine oil, wintergreen oil and ylang oil.
In certain instances, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is a triglyceride, and in particular caprylic/capric triglyceride; synthetic esters, and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters, 2-ethyl phenyl benzoate; and fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol.
As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils mention is made ofHydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and branched C is mentioned in particular 8 -C 16 Alkanes, e.g. C of petroleum origin 8 -C 16 Isoparaffins (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane; oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl; branched C 8 -C 16 An ester; and isohexyl pivalate.
Preferably, the oil is selected from vegetable-based oils or vegetable-based oils, such as coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard oil, camelina oil, pennycress oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, almond oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, vegetable oil, juniper oil, peach seed oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.
Thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate
The cosmetic compositions described herein may optionally include a thickener other than sodium polyacrylate. The amount of thickener other than sodium polyacrylate may be from about 0.01wt.% to about 5wt.%, from about 0.01wt.% to about 4wt.%, from about 0.01wt.% to about 3wt.%, from about 0.01wt.% to about 2wt.%, from about 0.01wt.% to about 1wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; 0.05wt.% to about 3wt.%, about 0.05wt.% to about 2wt.%, about 0.05wt.% to about 1wt.%; about 0.1wt.% to about 5wt.%, about 0.1wt.% to about 4wt.%, about 0.1wt.% to about 3wt.%, about 0.1wt.% to about 2wt.%, about 0.1wt.% to about 1wt.%; about 0.2wt.% to about 5wt.%, about 0.2wt.% to about 4wt.%, about 0.2wt.% to about 3wt.%, about 0.2wt.% to about 2wt.%, about 0.2wt.% to about 1wt.%; about 0.3wt.% to about 5wt.%, about 0.3wt.% to about 4wt.%, about 0.3wt.% to about 3wt.%, about 0.3wt.% to about 2wt.%, or about 0.3wt.% to about 1wt.% (including ranges and subranges thereof). Furthermore, the amount of thickener may be 0.1wt.%, 0.2wt.%, 0.3wt.%, 0.4wt.%, 0.5wt.%, 0.6wt.%, 0.7wt.%, 0.8wt.%, 0.9wt.%, 1.0wt.% or 1.5wt.% to 2wt.%, 3wt.%, 4wt.% or 5wt.% (including each range and sub-ranges thereof), based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Many thickeners are water-soluble and increase the viscosity of water or form hydrogels when the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are dispersed/dissolved in water. The aqueous solution may be heated and cooled, or neutralized, if necessary, for gel formation. Thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate may be dispersed/dissolved in an aqueous solvent that is soluble in water (e.g., ethanol when dispersed/dissolved in water).
Thickeners may be referred to as "thickeners" or "viscosity modifiers. Thickeners are often included to increase the viscosity of the composition. However, in some cases, certain thickeners provide additional unexpected benefits to the composition. Non-limiting examples of thickeners include polyacrylate crosslinked polymers (other than sodium polyacrylate) or crosslinked polyacrylate polymers (other than sodium polyacrylate), cationic acrylate copolymers, anionic acrylic or carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides (e.g., cellulose derivatives), gums, polyquaternium, vinylpyrrolidone homo/copolymers, C8-24 hydroxy substituted aliphatic acids, C8-24 conjugated aliphatic acids, sugar fatty esters, polyglycerol esters, and mixtures thereof. Suitable thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate can be found in U.S. patent application Ser. No. 16/731,654 (which is incorporated herein in its entirety for all purposes).
The thickener other than sodium polyacrylate can be selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, biological gum, cellulose, acacia gum (acacia Seneca gum), sclerotium gum, agarose, pectin, gellan gum, and hyaluronic acid. In addition, thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate may include polymeric thickeners selected from the group consisting of: ammonium polyacryl dimethyl taurate, ammonium acryl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, acrylate copolymer, polyacrylamide, carbomer, and acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer.
Particular types of thickeners that may be mentioned include the following:
homopolymers or copolymers based on carboxylic acids or carboxylic esters, which may be linear or crosslinked:
these polymers contain one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids (acrylates) and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available polymers include those sold under the trade names CARBOPOL, ACRYSOL, POLYGEL, SOKALAN, CARBOPOL ULTREZ and POLYGEL. Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available as the CARBOPOL 900 series (e.g., CARBOPOL 954) from b.f. goodrich. In addition, other suitable carboxylic acid polymer reagents include ULTREZ 10 (B.F.Goodrich) and copolymers of C10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their short chain (i.e., C1-4 alcohol) esters, wherein the cross-linking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers and are commercially available from B.F.Goodrich as CARBOPOL 1342, CARBOPOL 1382, PEMULEN TR-1, and PEMULEN TR-2.
Other suitable carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymer reagents include copolymers of acrylic acid and C5-C10 alkyl acrylates, copolymers of acrylic acid and maleic anhydride, and polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6. Polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 can be obtained from Seppic as a starting material known as SEPIMAXZEN.
Another suitable carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymer reagent includes an acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymer, which is a cationic acrylate copolymer (or quaternary ammonium compound) available from Seppic as a starting material known under the trade name SIMULQUAT HC 305.
In certain embodiments, carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymer thickeners useful herein are those selected from the group consisting of: carbomers, acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
Polyquaternary ammonium salt compound
Non-limiting examples include polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28 Polyquaternium 29, polyquaternium 30, polyquaternium 40, polyquaternium 41, polyquaternium 42, polyquaternium 43, polyquaternium 44, polyquaternium 45, polyquaternium 46, polyquaternium 47, polyquaternium 48, polyquaternium 49, polyquaternium 50, polyquaternium 51, polyquaternium 52, polyquaternium 53, polyquaternium 54, polyquaternium 55, polyquaternium 56, polyquaternium 57, polyquaternium 58, polyquaternium 59, polyquaternium 60, polyquaternium 61, polyquaternium 62, polyquaternium 63, polyquaternium 64, polyquaternium 65, polyquaternium 66, polyquaternium-67, and the like. In some cases, preferred polyquaternium compounds include polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-67, or a mixture thereof.
Cellulose
Non-limiting examples of cellulose include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate propionate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the cellulose is selected from water-soluble cellulose derivatives (e.g., carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, cellulose sodium sulfate salt). Furthermore, in some cases, the cellulose is preferably hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC). In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes one or more cellulosic thickeners (e.g., microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl cellulose).
Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and copolymers
Non-limiting examples include polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinylpyrrolidone ((PVP)/vinyl acetate copolymer (PVP/VA copolymer), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)/eicosene copolymer, PVP/hexadecene copolymer, etc. commercially available polyvinylpyrrolidone includes LUVISKOL K30, K85, K90 commercially available copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate available from BASF include LUVISKOL VA37, VA64 available from BASF, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole (INCI: VP/methacrylamide/vinylimidazole copolymer) commercially available from BASF as LUVISET, PVP and PVP/VA copolymers being preferred in some cases.
Sucrose esters
Non-limiting examples include sucrose palmitate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose monocaprylate, sucrose monolaurate or sucrose dilaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose monopalmitate or sucrose dipalmitate, sucrose monostearate and sucrose distearate, sucrose monooleate, sucrose dioleate or sucrose trioleate, sucrose monolinoleate or sucrose dilinoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate or sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof (e.g., sucrose palmitate/sucrose stearate).
Polyglycerol esters
Non-limiting polyglycerol esters of fatty acids (polyglycerol esters) include those having the formula:
Figure BDA0004026770600000181
wherein n is 2-20 or 2-10 or 2-5, or 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and R 1 、R 2 And R is 3 Each independently of the other can be a fatty acidPart or hydrogen, provided that R 1 、R 2 And R is 3 At least one of which is a fatty acid moiety. For example R 1 、R 2 And R is 3 Can be saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, and has C 1 -C 40 、C 1 -C 30 、C 1 -C 25 Or C 1 -C 20 、C 1 -C 16 Or C 1 -C 10 Is a length of (c). In addition, non-limiting examples of polyglycerol esters of nonionic fatty acids include polyglycerol-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglycerol-10 caprylate/caprate, polyglycerol-4 caprate, polyglycerol-10 caprate, polyglycerol-4 laurate, polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-6 laurate, polyglycerol-10 cocoate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
C8-24 hydroxy-substituted aliphatic acid and C8-24 conjugated aliphatic acid
Non-limiting examples include conjugated linoleic acid, cis-octadecenoic acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis-5, 8,11,14, 17-eicosapentaenoic acid, cis-4, 7,10,13,16, 19-docosahexaenoic acid, columbic acid, trans-linolenic acid, anti-ricinoleic acid (ricinolaidic acid), stearidonic acid, 2-hydroxystearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis-11, 14-eicosenoic acid, elaidic acid, monopetroselinic acid, petroselinic acid, ricinoleic acid, trans-isooleic acid, cis-11,14,17-eicosenoic acid, cis-5-eicosenoic acid, cis-8, 11, 14-eicostrienoic acid, hexadecatrienoic acid, palmitoleic acid, trans-rock acid, trans-farnesol, cis-13, 16-docosenoic acid, cis-isooleic acid, cis-11-eicosenoic acid, cis-3-docosenoic acid, cis-13-octadecenoic acid, cis-15-octadecenoic acid, cis-35-docosenoic acid, linolenic acid, gamma-oleic acid, folic acid, and trans-858 acid. More preferably, the aliphatic acid comprises 12-hydroxystearic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, or a mixture thereof.
Glue
Non-limiting examples of gums include acacia, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum (Seneca gum), sclerotium gum and the like.
Skin active agent
The cosmetic composition may optionally include one or more skin active agents, such as anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle active agents, antioxidants, moisturizers, moisturizing ingredients, depigmenting agents, and/or agents that treat oily skin, and the like. The skin active agent may be included in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to about 10wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of skin active agent may be greater than 0 to about 9wt.%, greater than 0 to about 8wt.%, greater than 0 to about 7wt.%, greater than 0 to about 6wt.%, greater than 0 to about 5wt.%, greater than 0 to about 4wt.%, greater than 0 to about 3wt.%, greater than 0 to about 2wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; about 10ppm to about 10wt.% (100,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 5wt.% (50,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 2.5wt.% (25,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 1wt.% (10,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.5wt.% (5,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.3wt.% (3,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.2wt.% (2,000 ppm), about 10ppm to about 0.1wt.% (1,000 ppm), about 10ppm to 500 ppm. About 0.05 to about 10wt.%, about 0.05 to about 5wt.%, about 0.05 to about 2.5wt.%, about 0.05 to about 1wt.%, about 0.05 to about 0.5wt.%; about 0.1 to about 10wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2.5wt.%, about 0.1 to about 1wt.%, about 0.1 to about 0.5wt.%; about 1 to about 10wt.%, about 1 to about 8wt.%, about 1 to about 6wt.%, about 1 to about 5wt.%, about 1 to about 4wt.%, about 1 to about 3wt.%; about 2 to about 10wt.%, about 2 to about 8wt.%, about 2 to about 6wt.%, about 2 to about 5wt.%, about 2 to about 4wt.%; about 3 to about 10wt.%, about 3 to about 8wt.%, about 3 to about 6wt.%, about 3 to about 5wt.%; about 4 to about 10wt.%, about 4 to about 8wt.%, about 4 to about 6wt.% (including ranges and subranges therebetween).
Non-limiting discussion of skin active agents that may be included in cosmetic compositions in some cases is provided below:
moisturizer and/or moisturising ingredient
Examples of humectants and/or moisturizing ingredients include glycerin and its derivatives; urea and its derivatives, in particular hydro-elevational sold by National Starch; lactic acid; hyaluronic acid; AHA; BHA; sodium picolinate; xylitol; serine; sodium lactate; exendin and its derivatives; chitosan and derivatives thereof; collagen; plankton; an extract of imperata (Imperata cylindra) sold by sederm under the name Moist 24; an acrylic acid homopolymer of Lipidure-HM, NOF; beta-glucan, and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan (Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry); a mixture of passion flower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold under the name NutraLipids by Nestle; c-glycoside derivatives, in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, in the form of a 30% by weight solution of the active material in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight), as a product produced by Chimex under the trade name "Mexoryl SBB"; rosehip oil sold by Nestle; a Zinc-rich microalgae extract, rhodococcus rhodochrous (Prophyridium cruentum) sold by Vincience under the name algualan Zinc; collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres of marine origin (Atelocollagen) sold by Engelhard Lyon company under the name Marine Filling Spheres); hyaluronic acid spheres, such as those sold by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.
Decoloring agent
Depigmenting agents that can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions include those selected from the group consisting of: alpha arbutin and beta arbutin; ferulic acid; lucinol and derivatives thereof; kojic acid; resorcinol and its derivatives; tranexamic acid and derivatives thereof; gentisic acid; high gentisic acid (homogenetic); methyl gentisate or homogentisate; diacid (diacid); d calcium pantetheine sulfonate (D pantheteine calcium sulphonate); lipoic acid; ellagic acid; vitamin B3; linoleic acid and derivatives thereof; certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, aloe vera (aloe vera, aloe ferox, aloe vera), mulberry, scutellaria baicalensis (skullcap); kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) water sold by Gattefosse; extracts of peony (Paeonia suffruticosa) roots, such as that sold under the name Liquid Botanpi Be by Ichimaru pharos; an extract of brown sugar (sugarcane (Saccharum officinarum)), such as Molasses extract sold under the name Liquid molass by Taiyo Kagaku, is not an exhaustive list. Specific decolorizers include alpha arbutin and beta arbutin; ferulic acid; kojic acid; resorcinol and derivatives; d pantetheine calcium sulfonate; lipoic acid; ellagic acid; vitamin B3; kiwi (kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis)) water sold by Gattefosse; an extract of peony (Paeonia suffruticosa) root, such as that sold under the name Botanpi Liquid B by the company Ichimaru pharos.
Anti-wrinkle actives
The cosmetic composition may include one or more anti-wrinkle actives. The term "anti-wrinkle active agent" refers to a natural or synthetic compound that produces a biological effect when contacted with a wrinkled skin area, such as an increase in the synthesis and/or activity of certain enzymes, which has the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. Exemplary anti-wrinkle actives may be selected from: desquamation agents, anti-glycation agents, inhibitors of NO synthase, agents that stimulate the synthesis and/or prevent the degradation of dermal or epidermal macromolecules, agents for stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes or agents for stimulating keratinocyte differentiation reducing agents (reducing agents), muscle relaxants and/or skin relaxants (dermo-decontracting agent), anti-free radical agents, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids (e.g., retinol palmitate and retinol); ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; compound C-glycosides and derivatives thereof as described in particular in EP-1345919, such as C- β -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane as described in particular in EP-1345919; plant extracts including extracts of sea fennel and olive leaves; and plants and their hydrolysates, such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy proteins; algae extracts, and in particular kelp (extract); bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants (particularly wild yam), comprising: a-hydroxy acid; f 3-hydroxy acid; such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides, and acyl derivatives thereof, in particular the acids {2- [ acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino ] -3-methyl- } acetic acid and lipopeptides (sold by SEDERMA company under the trade names Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000); lycopene; manganese salts and magnesium salts (particularly gluconate); and mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the cosmetic composition comprises an adenosine derivative, such as a non-phosphate derivative of adenosine, such as, in particular, 2' -deoxyadenosine, 2',3' -isopropylidene adenosine; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methyl mercaptopurine nucleoside and 6-chloropurine nucleoside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyladenosine ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-Cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-Cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenylethyl adenosine, 2-p- (2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5 '-N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5' (N-cyclopropyl) -carboxamido adenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and adenyl.
Skin active agent for oily skin
The cosmetic composition may optionally include a skin active agent directed to oily skin. These agents may be sebum modulators or anti-seborrheic agents capable of modulating sebaceous gland activity. Exemplary skin active agents directed to oily skin include: retinoic acid, retinol, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine) chloride, selenium, salicornia-cinnamon extract blend, tea and octanoylglycine, e.g. -15 Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; mixtures of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine, in particular sold by Seppic under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc picolinate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate 20, zinc sulfoalaninate (zinc cysteine); derivatives, in particular copper and copper picolinate, as Cuivridone Solabia; -an extract from: arnica montana (Arnica montana), herba Naemorhedi (Cinchona succirubra), flos Caryophylli (Eugenia caryophyllata), flos Lupuli (Humulus lupulus), herba Hyperici perforati (Hypericum perforatum), mentha piperita (Mentha piperita) 25, herba Rosmarini officinalis (Rosmarinus officinalis), herba Salvia officinalis (Salvia officinalis) and herba Thymus vulgaris (Thymus vulgaris), all sold for example by Maruzen; an extract of Spiraea (Spiraea ulmaria), such as that sold by Silab under the name Sebonormine; an extract of the algae kelp (Laminaria saccharina), such as that sold by Biotechmarine under the name 30 phlarogine; -root extract of the sanguisorba officinalis mixture (sanguisorba officinalis (Sanguisorba officinalis)/sanguisorba longifolia (Poterium officinale)), rhizome of ginger (Zingiber officinalis) and (extract of) bark of cinnamon (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold by solasia under the name Sebustop; an extract of flaxseed, such as that sold under the name Linumee by Lucas Meyer; phellodendron (Phelloodendron) extracts, such as those sold by Maruzen under the name Phellodendron extract BG or by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Oubaku liquid B; mixtures of argan oil, saw palmetto (Serenoa serrulata) extract and sesame seed extract, such as that sold by pentagear under the name Regu SEB; mixtures of extracts of willow herb, myrobalan (Terminalia chebula), saussurea involucrata and bio-available zinc (microalgae), such as that sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech; an extract of Pygeum africanum (Pygeum africanum), such as that sold by Euromed under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract; extracts of Serenoa repens (Serenoa serrulata), such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by Euromed corporation; -an extract of plantain blend, an extract of berberis thunbergii (Berberis aquifolium) and sodium salicylate 20, such as that sold under the name Seboclear Rahn; -lilac extract, such as that sold by Maruzen under the name Clove extract powder; argan oil, such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologiques; 25- -milk protein filtrate (lactic protein filtrates), such as that sold under the name normseb by Sederma; sea algae extract such as that sold by biotechnoline under the name laminarchane; -the oligosaccharide seaweed kelp palmate (Laminaria digitata), such as that sold by Codif company under the name phycosachatride 30 AC; an extract of sugar cane, such as that sold under the name Policosanol by Sabinsa; sulfonated shale oils, such as those sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by Ichthyol; an extract of Spiraea ulmaria (Spiraea ulmaria), such as that sold under the name cytomol Ulmaire by societeLibiol; sebacic acid, in particular sold by Sederma under the name Sebosoft in the form of sodium polyacrylate gel; glucomannans extracted from konjak tubers and modified with alkyl sulfonate chains, such as that sold by Arch Chemical under the name Biopol Beta; extracts of Sophora flavescens (Sophora angustifolia), such as those sold by Bioland under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract; an extract of the Bark of the tree Cinnamomum, such as that sold by Alban Muller under the name Red Bark HS; -an extract of quillaja (Quillaja saponaria), such as that sold by Alban Muller under the name 15Panama wood HS; glycine grafted onto the undecylenic chain, such as that sold by SEPPIC under the name Lipacide UG OR; mixtures of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold by Sederma under the name ac.net in gel form; 20-phthalimido peroxy caproic acid; -tri (C12-C13) citrate sold by Sasol under the name cosmarol. Tri (C14-C15) alkyl citrate sold by Sasol under the name cosmarol. -10-hydroxydecanoic acid, including the mixtures hydroxydecanoic acid October 25, sebacic acid and 1, 10-decanediol, such as that sold by Vincience under the name Acnacidol BG; and mixtures thereof.
Antioxidant agent
Vitamin C and derivatives may be used including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecyl and palmitates of ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbate glucosamine, ascorbate acetate, and the like. In addition, extracts from plants containing a large amount of vitamin C such as carbomer (myrcia dubia), acerola (acerola), phyllanthus emblica (emblica officinalis) can also be used; and bioflavonoids from rosehips and citrus fruits, including water-soluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methyl chalcone.
Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesamol (lignan) may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (sesame-related fibrous compounds) act as antioxidants. The sesamol significantly enhances vitamin E activity.
Other antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g., d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, d-gamma-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g., d-alpha-tocotrienol, d-beta-tocotrienol, d-gamma-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol), and vitamin E (alpha-tocopheryl acetate). These compounds may be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof. Vitamin E preparations enriched in tocotrienols can be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove a portion of the tocopherols and recovering a more highly concentrated tocotrienol preparation. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated from wheat germ oil, cereal oil or palm oil, for example using high performance liquid chromatography, or isolated from barley, distillers grains or oats by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation. The term "tocotrienol" as used herein includes tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products as well as pure compounds. The increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage.
In addition, carotenoids (especially of the lutein type) are also useful antioxidants that can be used. Lutein-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein (lutein), canthaxanthin (canthaxanthin), cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Lutein protects compounds such as vitamin a, vitamin E and other carotenoids.
Flavonoid
The active agent may be an antioxidant selected from flavonoids. In some cases, the flavonoid is flavanone (a derivative of 2, 3-dihydro-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). The flavone comprises: butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isostezochralski, naringenin, naringin, pinus, poncirin, primeverin, and 7-O-methyleriodictyol (Sterubiin). The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (derivative of 3-hydroxy-2, 3-dihydro-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Flavanols include: taxifolin, bergamotene (aromaddrin), chrysandroside a, chrysandroside B, xeracinol, astilbin, and genistein. The flavonoid may be a flavone (derivative of 2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). The flavone comprises: apigenin, luteolin, citrus flavone, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarin, wogonin, and synthetic flavone: diosmin and flavonpiprazole. The flavonoid may be a flavonol (derivative of 3-hydroxy-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azalea, neisser, galangin, gossypin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, naringenin, agastachydrin (Pachypodol), quercetin, rhamnetin, azalea, hyperin, isoquercitrin, kaempferide, myricetin, quercitrin, locust fruit, rutin, spiradin, yellow mouse Li Gan, dehydro Huang Baigan, icariin and troxerutin. The flavonoid may be flavan-3-ol (a derivative of 2-phenyl-3, 4-dihydro-2H-benzopyran-3-ol). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin (Epiafzelechin), non-sirtuin alcohol (Fistinidol), quinolizinol (Guibountimol), mesquitol and Robinetindol. The flavonoid may be flavan-4-ol (a derivative of 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiforol and luteofurol. The flavonoid may be isoflavone (derivative of 3-phenylbenzopyran-4-one). The isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, biochanin a, formononetin and equol metabolites from Daidzein.
The antioxidant may be an anthocyanin (derivative of the 2-phenylbenzopyrylium cation). The anthocyanin comprises: orange peel (aurtinidin), cyanidin, delphinidin, europadin (europainin), luteolin (Luteolinidin), pelargonidin (Pelargonidin), malvidin (Malvidin), paeoniflorin (Peonidin), morning glory pigment (petuniin), rose pigment (rosidin) and xanthone.
The antioxidant may be dihydrochalcone (a derivative of 1, 3-diphenyl-1-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: phloretin, dihydrochalcone phloretin, phlorizin, aspartame (Aspalathin), naringin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and Nothofagin. Without limiting the mode of action of the present invention, dihydrochalcones may exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals (e.g., reactive oxygen species and reactive nitrogen species).
The antioxidant may be anthocyanin. Anthocyanin and its derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins encompass a class of flavonoid compounds responsible for the red, violet and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains and flowers, which are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds. In addition, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Inhibition of collagenase helps to prevent and reduce wrinkles caused by reduction of skin collagen, increase skin elasticity, and the like. The anthocyanins may be obtained from any part of a variety of plant sources, such as fruits, flowers, stems, leaves, roots, bark or seeds. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that certain parts of the plant may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins and that these parts are therefore used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, the antioxidant may include one or more beta-anthocyanins. Beta-anthocyanin (similar to anthocyanin) is available from natural sources and is an antioxidant.
The antioxidant may be phenylpropanoids (derivatives of cinnamic acid). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant phamacore 2, 6-dihydroxyacetophenone), 5-hydroxyferulic acid, sinapic acid, coumaric alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapic alcohol, eugenol, piperonyl alcohol (Chavicol), safrole, P-coumaric acid and sinapic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids neutralize free radicals.
The antioxidant may be chalcone (a derivative of 1, 3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one). Chalcones include: butein, chrysanthemic chalcone, carthamin, martin, clomazone, xanthone, xanthohumol, flavokvain a, flavokavain B, flavokavain C, and synthetic savalcone.
The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, bisdemethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids are available from the rhizome of turmeric (Curcuma longa). Tetrahydrocurcumin (a metabolite of curcumin) has been found to be a more potent antioxidant and more stable than curcumin.
The antioxidant may be tannin. Tannins include: tannins, terrflavin B, glucogallin (glucoallin), gallic acid (dgellic acid) and oak tannic acid (Quercitannic acid).
The antioxidant may be a stilbene compound (stiction). Stilbene compounds include: resveratrol, pterostilbene and piceatannol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4 '-trihydroxy stilbene, 3,4,3',5 '-tetrahydroxy stilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5 '-tetrahydroxy stilbene (oxidized resveratrol), 4' -dihydroxystilbene and alpha and beta glucosides, galactosides and mannoside derivatives thereof.
The antioxidant may be coumarin (a derivative of 2H-benzopyran-2-one). Coumarin includes: 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, aesculin, desmopressin, auraptene and biscoumarin.
The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein, and idebenone. Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesamol may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (sesame-related fibrous compounds) act as antioxidants. The sesamol significantly enhances vitamin E activity.
The antioxidant may be xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2, 6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2, 4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, chicoric acid, chlorogenic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, S-allylcysteine, pyranisoflavone (barberone), myrobalan tannic acid, edaravone, ethoxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrosol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetyl serotonin, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, olive oil stimulating aldehyde (Oleoctanthal), oleuropein, afugal alcohol (paradol), white piceatol, probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, ring-opened iso She Songfen diglucose, sesamin, silybin, silymarin, theaflavin, xanthophyll, thymoquinone (thermolone), oxynol, tyrosol; and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid.
Fatty esters other than polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate
The cosmetic composition may include fatty esters other than polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate in amounts that may vary, but are typically from about 0.1 to about 20wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 18wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 16wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 14wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 12wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 10wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 8wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 7wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 6wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; about 0.5to 20wt.%, about 0.5to about 18wt.%, about 0.5to about 16wt.%, about 0.5to about 14wt.%, about 0.5to about 12wt.%, about 0.5to about 10wt.%, about 0.5to about 8wt.%, about 0.5to about 7wt.%, about 0.5to about 6wt.%, about 0.5to about 5wt.%; about 1 to about 20wt.%, about 1 to about 18wt.%, about 1 to about 16wt.%, about 1 to about 14wt.%, about 1 to about 12wt.%, about 1 to about 10wt.%, about 1 to about 8wt.%, about 1 to about 7wt.%, about 1 to about 6wt.%, about 1 to about 5wt.%; about 2 to about 20wt.%, about 2 to about 18wt.%, about 2 to about 16wt.%, about 2 to about 14wt.%, about 2 to about 12wt.%, about 2 to about 10wt.%, about 2 to about 8wt.%, about 2 to about 7wt.%, about 2 to about 6wt.%, about 2 to about 5wt.%; about 3 to about 20wt.%, about 3 to about 18wt.%, about 3 to about 16wt.%, about 3 to about 14wt.%, about 3 to about 12wt.%, about 3 to about 10wt.%, about 3 to about 8wt.%, about 3 to about 7wt.%, about 3 to about 6wt.%, about 3 to about 5wt.%; about 4 to about 20wt.%, about 4 to about 18wt.%, about 4 to about 16wt.%, about 4 to about 14wt.%, about 4 to about 12wt.%, about 4 to about 10wt.%, about 4 to about 8wt.%, or about 4 to about 7wt.% (including all ranges and subranges therebetween).
The fatty esters other than polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate may be glycerol fatty esters, sorbitan fatty esters, ethoxylated fatty esters, synthetic esters, etc. A discussion of fatty esters other than polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate that may be included in the cosmetic composition is provided below.
Glycerol fatty ester
The glycerol fatty esters useful as nonionic amphiphilic lipids can be chosen in particular from esters formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 10 glycerol units. One or more of these glycerol fatty esters may be used in the emulsions of the present disclosure.
Sorbitan fatty esters
The fatty esters of sorbitan which can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids are chosen in particular from esters of C16-C22 fatty acids with sorbitan and oxyethylenated esters of C16-C22 fatty acids with sorbitan. They are formed from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms respectively and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, and preferably from 2 to 40 Ethylene Oxide (EO) units.
These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to using stearates and palmitates.
As examples of sorbitan fatty esters and oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty esters, sorbitan monostearate sold under the name Span 60 by ICI company (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) may be mentioned; sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold by ICI under the name Span 40; or sorbitan tristearate 20EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) sold by ICI under the name Tween 65.
Ethoxylated fatty esters
Ethoxylated fatty esters useful as nonionic amphiphilic lipids are esters consisting of 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and at least one fatty acid chain containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chains of the esters may be chosen in particular from the stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof. As examples of ethoxylated fatty esters, mention may be made of esters of stearic acid comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 by ICI company (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate); and esters of behenic acid containing 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by Gattefosse.
Synthetic esters
Synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula RCOOR ', wherein R represents a straight-chain or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ' represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R+R '. Gtoreq.10, for example tailed oil (cetylstearyl octoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate; C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, e.g. under the trade name Finsolv by Witco
Figure BDA0004026770600000271
Or Witconol->
Figure BDA0004026770600000272
The product sold is either under the trade name Tegosoft +. Evonik Goldschmidt>
Figure BDA0004026770600000273
A product for sale; 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold by ISP under the name X-Tend 226; isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate; diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stearinerie Dubois; octanoate, decanoate or ricinoleate of alcohols or polyols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; pentaerythritol esters; citric acid esters or tartaric acid estersFor example di (linear C12-C13 alkyl) tartrate, e.g. by Enichem Augusta Industriale under the name Cosmacol- >
Figure BDA0004026770600000274
Those sold; and di (linear C14-C15 alkyl) tartrate esters, e.g. by the same company under the name Cosmacol->
Figure BDA0004026770600000275
Those sold; or acetate.
Nonionic emulsifiers other than polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate
In some cases, the cosmetic composition may include a nonionic emulsifier other than polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate. The amount of nonionic emulsifier other than polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate may be from about 0.1 to 20wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 18wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 16wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 14wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 12wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 10wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 8wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 7wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 6wt.%, from about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. About 1 to about 20wt.%, about 1 to about 18wt.%, about 1 to about 16wt.%, about 1 to about 14wt.%, about 1 to about 12wt.%, about 1 to about 10wt.%, about 1 to about 8wt.%, about 1 to about 7wt.%, about 1 to about 6wt.%, about 1 to about 5wt.%; about 4 to about 20wt.%, about 4 to about 18wt.%, about 4 to about 16wt.%, about 4 to about 14wt.%, about 4 to about 12wt.%, about 4 to about 10wt.%, about 4 to about 8wt.%, or about 4 to about 7wt.% (including all ranges and subranges therebetween).
Emulsifiers are commonly used to incorporate oil and/or fatty compounds into hydrophilic media (e.g., aqueous media) to form oil-in-water emulsions. However, in some cases, emulsifiers may be used to incorporate a hydrophilic phase (e.g., an aqueous medium) into the oil or fat phase to form a water-in-oil emulsion. The cosmetic composition includes one or more nonionic emulsifiers. However, additional emulsifiers, such as amphoteric, anionic and/or cationic emulsifiers, may also be included (or excluded).
As the O/W emulsion, examples of the emulsifier which may be mentioned include nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerin; oxidized alkylene fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof. A more detailed, but non-limiting list of useful nonionic emulsifiers is provided below under the heading "nonionic emulsifiers".
In some cases, the natural oil-containing cosmetic composition includes two or more nonionic emulsifiers. In particular, one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 10 or more and one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 5 or less. The total amount of these emulsifiers may be such that the final HLB of the hair treatment composition is within +/-0.5 of the HLB of the natural oil in the cosmetic composition. This typically results in a final HLB of the emulsified natural oil in the hair treatment composition ranging from about 6 to about 8.
Examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include nonionic emulsifiers, such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxidized alkylene fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers include polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, polyol esters, glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated ethers, oxypropylether, ethylene glycol polymers, sorbitan esters, polysorbates, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the one or more nonionic emulsifiers are selected from polyglycerol-10-stearate, polyglycerol-3-decanoate, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate, or mixtures thereof.
PH regulator
The cosmetic composition may include one or more pH adjusting agents to increase or decrease the overall pH of the cosmetic composition. For example, one or more acids may be included to reduce the pH of the cosmetic composition. Examples of suitable acids for lowering the pH of the cosmetic composition include, but are not limited to, citric acid, acetic acid, and the like. The cosmetic composition may include one or more bases (e.g., sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, etc.) to reduce the pH of the cosmetic composition. Additional or alternative acids and bases suitable for adjusting the pH of the cosmetic composition are readily known to those of ordinary skill in the art.
The cosmetic composition may desirably have a pH of from about 4 to about 7, preferably from about 4.5 to about 6.5 or from about 5.5 to about 6.5. In one instance, the pH of the cosmetic composition is 6 or about 6. The amount of pH adjuster in the cosmetic composition may be based on the desired pH of the final cosmetic composition and/or product. For example, the total amount of pH adjuster may range from about 0.05 to about 20wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition. In some cases, the total amount of pH adjuster is from about 0.05 to about 15wt.%, from about 0.5 to about 10wt.%, from about 1 to about 5wt.%, from about 1.5 to about 4wt.%, or from about 2.0 to about 3wt.% (including ranges and subranges therebetween) based on the total weight of the composition.
Water and its preparation method
The total amount of water in the cosmetic composition may vary, but is typically from about 50 to about 95wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of water is about 50 to about 90wt.%, about 50 to about 85wt.%, about 50 to about 80wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; about 55 to about 95wt.%, about 55 to about 90wt.%, about 55 to about 85wt.%, about 55 to about 80wt.%; about 60 to about 95wt.%, about 60 to about 90wt.%, about 60 to about 85wt.%, about 60 to about 80wt.%; about 65 to about 95wt.%, about 65 to about 90wt.%, about 65 to about 85wt.%, or about 65 to about 80wt.%; about 70 to about 95wt.%, about 70 to about 90wt.%, about 70 to about 85wt.%, about 70 to about 80wt.% (including ranges and subranges therebetween).
Production method
The present disclosure also relates to methods or processes for preparing/manufacturing the cosmetic compositions described herein. It also encompasses products prepared by these methods or processes.
The process of making certain embodiments of the cosmetic composition includes forming an oil phase and forming a separate aqueous phase (containing water), the two phases being heated and combined while warm. The phases may be heated to the same temperature or may be heated to different temperatures.
The thickener may be added to the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition. However, in some cases, one or more emulsifiers and/or thickeners are added to the oil phase. Additionally or alternatively, a thickener may be added after emulsification, for example, ammonium polyacryl dimethyl taurate may be added after emulsification.
After combining the oil phase with the water phase to form an emulsion, the composition is typically allowed to cool. Additional components may be added during or after the time of emulsification. For example, certain fragrances, colorants, exfoliants, active ingredients, and the like may be added to the aqueous phase, the fat phase, or after emulsification.
Application method
The present disclosure also relates to methods of using the cosmetic compositions described herein. For example, the cosmetic composition may be used in a method comprising applying the cosmetic composition to human skin. In some cases, the composition is applied to the face. Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions may be used in methods for treating and/or repairing damage to skin (e.g., damage from photoaging) and methods for reducing the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, and uneven skin texture of skin. The foregoing methods are non-therapeutic.
The cosmetic composition may be applied once a day, twice a day, or more than once or twice a day. In some cases, the composition is administered prior to sleeping at night. In other cases, the composition is administered in the morning. In still other cases, the composition may be applied immediately after the skin is rinsed. The composition may be applied once or for a series of days, weeks or months. For example, the composition may be used daily for a period of 1 week or 1 month, 2 weeks or 2 months, 3 weeks or 3 months, 4 weeks or 4 months, 5 weeks or 5 months, 6 weeks or 6 months, 7 weeks or 7 months, 8 weeks or 8 months or more weeks or more.
Description of the embodiments
In certain embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure generally comprise:
-about 0.1 to about 10wt.%, preferably about 1 to about 10wt.%, more preferably about 2 to about 9wt.% of C-glycosides, for example those selected from the group consisting of C- β -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C- α -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and mixtures thereof;
-about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, preferably about 0.25 to about 5wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4wt.% polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate;
-about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, preferably about 0.25 to about 5wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4wt.% sodium polyacrylate; and
-water, preferably about 50 to about 95wt.% water, more preferably about 60 to about 95wt.% water, wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In a further embodiment, there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising:
-about 0.1 to about 10wt.%, preferably about 1 to about 10wt.%, more preferably about 2 to about 9wt.% of C-glycosides, for example those selected from the group consisting of C- β -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C- α -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and mixtures thereof;
-about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, preferably about 0.25 to about 5wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4wt.% polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate;
-about 0.1 to about 5wt.%, preferably about 0.25 to about 5wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4wt.% sodium polyacrylate;
-water, preferably about 50 to about 95wt.% water, more preferably about 60 to about 95wt.% water;
-optionally about 1 to about 30wt.%, preferably about 5 to about 25wt.%, more preferably about 10 to about 20wt.% of a polyol comprising, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, octylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, or mixtures thereof;
-optionally from about 0.1 to about 10wt.%, preferably from about 0.25 to about 8wt.%, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 6wt.% of a gloss reducing agent, such as aluminum starch octenyl succinate;
-optionally about 0.5 to about 10wt.%, preferably about 1 to about 10wt.%, more preferably about 1 to about 6wt.% of an oil, such as silicone, coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard oil, camelina oil, pennycress oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, almond oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, vegetable oil, juniper oil, peach seed oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, or mixtures thereof;
-optionally from about 0.01 to about 5wt.%, preferably from about 0.01wt.% to about 4wt.%, more preferably from about 0.05wt.% to about 4wt.% of a thickener other than sodium polyacrylate, for example selected from the group consisting of: ammonium polyacryl dimethyl taurate, ammonium acryl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymer, polyacrylamide, carbomer, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, acrylate/behenate polyether-25 methacrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof;
-optionally up to about 5wt.%, preferably from about 0.05 to about 5wt.%, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 4wt.% of a skin active agent, such as those selected from the group consisting of: hyaluronic acid, lanolin, nicotinamide, citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, octanoylsalicylic acid, retinoids, retinal, retinol, adenosine, sodium hyaluronate, retinoic acid, carotenoids, panthenol, amino acids, proteins, enzymes, coenzymes, and mixtures thereof; and
-optionally about 1 to about 30wt.%, preferably about 0.5 to about 16wt.%, more preferably about 1 to about 8wt.% of a fatty ester other than polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, wherein the fatty ester comprises isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride or mixtures thereof, wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Examples
The following examples are provided primarily for the purpose of illustrating the benefits achieved by embodiments of the present disclosure. The embodiments are intended to illustrate the technology and are not necessarily limiting in nature.
Example 1
Figure BDA0004026770600000321
Example 2
The permeation of example composition a was evaluated in vitro by applying a sample of example composition a to a Glass Franz diffusion cell. Samples of example composition a were applied to 3 pigskin samples from 3 different donors. The pigskin sample was a full thickness pigskin obtained from the flank. Will be about 5mg/cm 2 Example composition A was applied to each pigskin sample at 2cm 2 Surface area. The diffusion cell was filled with 3mL of a receptor fluid, which was an aqueous saline solution containing 0.9wt.% NaCl. The pigskin sample from the diffusion cell was kept at a temperature of 32 ℃ for 16 hours.
The pigskin samples from the diffusion cells were washed with 0.6mL of a solution containing 5wt.% lauryl ether sulfate and soft-massaged using half a cotton swab for 30 seconds. Subsequently, 0.6mL of a solution containing 5wt.% of lauryl ether sulfate was used to wash the pigskin sample by aspirating with a pipette and dispensing (dispensing) the solution several times. The pigskin samples were then washed three times by aspirating with a pipette and dispensing 0.6mL of water. After each of the foregoing washing steps, the corresponding solution or water is removed using a pipette. After the washing step was completed, the pigskin samples were dried using two half swabs.
Then use DSquame TM Adhesive tape (which is commercially available from Clinical&Derm) tape stripping was performed on pigskin samples. Specifically, 30 tape peels (10 obtained from each donor of the pigskin sample). The amount of example composition A penetrating into the epidermis, dermis (epd) was determined to be about 2.2 μg/cm using LC-MSMS equipment and receptor fluid 2 An average amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol.
The term "INCI" is an abbreviation for the International nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), which is a naming system provided by the International Commission on nomenclature (International Nomenclature Committee) of the personal care products Association (Personal Care Products Council) to describe personal care ingredients.
All provided ranges as used herein are meant to include each specific range within the given range, as well as combinations of sub-ranges between the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1-5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, and sub-ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, and the like.
All components and elements set forth positively (posively) in the present disclosure may be excluded from the claims. In other words, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be free or substantially free of all components and elements that are positively recited throughout the present disclosure.
In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be substantially free of non-incidental amounts of the ingredients or compounds described herein. The non-incidental amount of an ingredient or compound is the amount of that ingredient or compound itself added to the cosmetic composition. For example, the cosmetic composition may be substantially free of non-incidental amounts of ingredients or compounds, although such ingredients or compounds may be present as part of the raw materials that are included as a blend of two or more compounds.
Some of the various categories of identified components may overlap. In such cases where there may be an overlap and the composition comprises two components (or the composition comprises more than two overlapping components), the overlapping compounds do not represent more than one component. For example, tocopherols may be characterized as both skin active agents and preservatives. If a particular composition includes both a skin active agent and a preservative, the steareth-20 will act as a skin active agent only or as a preservative only (tocopherols will not act as both a skin active agent and a preservative).
All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference and for any and all purposes as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of a discrepancy between the present disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated by reference herein, the present disclosure controls.
The terms "comprising," "having," and "including" as used herein are used in their open, non-limiting sense.
The terms "a" and "an" and "the" are to be construed to cover both the plural and the singular. Thus, the term "mixture thereof (a mixture thereof)" also relates to "mixture thereof (mixtures therof)". Throughout this disclosure, the term "mixtures thereof" is used after a list of elements, as shown in the examples below, wherein the letters a-F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F and mixtures thereof". The term "mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E and F may be included). Instead, it indicates a mixture that may include any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "selected from A, B, C, D, E, F; and one or more elements in a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F).
The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and thus includes the individual components as well as the mixture/combination.
Except in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions can be modified in all instances by the term "about," meaning within +/-5% of the indicated number.
The term "treating" (and grammatical variations thereof) as used herein refers to applying the compositions of the present disclosure to a surface of a keratin substrate (e.g., the head and/or hair on the body of a user).
The term "substantially free" as used herein means that less than about 2% by weight of a particular material is added to the composition, based on the total weight of the composition. However, the composition may include less than about 1wt.%, less than about 0.5wt.%, less than about 0.1wt.%, or no specified material. All components set forth herein may optionally be included in or excluded from the compositions/methods/kits. The composition/method/kit may be free or substantially free of this component when excluded. For example, certain compositions may be free or substantially free of silicone.

Claims (20)

1. A cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) About 0.1 to about 10wt.% of a C-glycoside;
(b) About 0.1 to about 5wt.% polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate;
(c) About 0.1 to about 5wt.% sodium polyacrylate; and
(d) Water and its preparation method
Wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, further comprising:
(e) About 1 to about 30wt.% of a polyol.
3. The cosmetic composition of claim 2 wherein the polyhydric alcohol is selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, octylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
4. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-3, further comprising:
(f) About 0.1 to about 10wt.% of a polish remover.
5. The cosmetic composition of claim 4, wherein the degreasing agent comprises aluminum starch octenyl succinate.
6. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-3, further comprising:
(g) About 0.5 to about 10wt.% oil.
7. The cosmetic composition of claim 6, wherein the oil is silicone.
8. The cosmetic composition of claim 6, wherein the oil is selected from the group consisting of coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard oil, camelina oil, pennycress oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, almond oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, vegetable oil, juniper oil, peach seed oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.
9. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-3, further comprising:
(h) About 0.01 to about 5wt.% of a thickener other than sodium polyacrylate.
10. The cosmetic composition of claim 9 wherein the thickener other than sodium polyacrylate is selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacryl dimethyl taurate, ammonium acryl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymer, polyacrylamide, carbomer, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, acrylate/behenate-25 methacrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
11. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-3, further comprising:
(i) About 0.05 to about 5wt.% of a skin active agent.
12. The cosmetic composition of claim 11, wherein the skin active agent is selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, lanolin, nicotinamide, citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, octanoylsalicylic acid, retinoids, retinaldehyde, retinol, adenosine, sodium hyaluronate, retinoic acid, carotenoids, panthenol, amino acids, proteins, enzymes, coenzymes, and mixtures thereof.
13. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-3, further comprising:
(j) About 0.1 to about 20wt.% of a fatty ester other than polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate.
14. The cosmetic composition of claim 13, wherein the fatty ester that is not polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate comprises isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, or mixtures thereof.
15. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from the group consisting of C- β -D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- α -D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- β -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C- α -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- β -D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C- α -D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C- β -L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C- β -D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- α -D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- β -L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- α -L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- β -L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C- β -L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C-L-glucopyranoside) 1- (C- α -D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- β -D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- α -D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- β -D-fucopyranosyl) propan-2-one, 1- (C- α -D-fucopyranosyl) propan-2-one, 1- (C- β -L-fucopyranosyl) propan-2-one, C- β -D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- β -D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C- α -D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, isomers thereof, mixtures thereof, and combinations thereof.
16. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-3, wherein the C-glycoside comprises at least one of C- β -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C- α -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
17. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the C-glycoside is C- β -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
18. A cosmetic composition consisting of the following components:
(a) About 0.1 to about 10wt.% of a C-glycoside;
(b) About 0.1 to about 5wt.% polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate;
(c) About 0.1 to about 5wt.% sodium polyacrylate;
(d) Water;
(e) Optionally about 1 to about 30wt.% of a polyol;
(f) Optionally about 0.1 to about 10wt.% of a gloss reducing agent;
(g) Optionally about 0.5 to about 10wt.% oil;
(h) Optionally about 0.01 to about 5wt.% of a thickener other than sodium polyacrylate;
(i) Optionally, a skin active agent in an amount up to about 5 wt.%; and
(j) Optionally about 1 to about 30wt.% of a fatty ester other than polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate,
wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
19. The cosmetic composition of claim 18, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from the group consisting of C- β -D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- α -D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- β -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C- α -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- β -D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C- α -D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C- β -L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C- α -L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C- β -D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- β -L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- α -L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- β -L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (C- β -L-glucopyranoside) 1- (C- β -D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- α -D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C- β -D-fucopyranosyl) propan-2-one, 1- (C- α -D-fucopyranosyl) propan-2-one, 1- (C- β -L-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one, 1- (C- α -L-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one, C- β -D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- α -D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- β -D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, isomers thereof, mixtures thereof, and combinations thereof.
20. The cosmetic composition of claim 18, wherein the C-glycoside comprises at least one of C- β -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C- α -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
CN202180046591.4A 2020-06-30 2021-06-29 Cosmetic composition with improved penetration Pending CN115996697A (en)

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