CN115449950B - Non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN115449950B CN115449950B CN202211199112.5A CN202211199112A CN115449950B CN 115449950 B CN115449950 B CN 115449950B CN 202211199112 A CN202211199112 A CN 202211199112A CN 115449950 B CN115449950 B CN 115449950B
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 71
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 8
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title description 7
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 240000000047 Gossypium barbadense Species 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 235000009429 Gossypium barbadense Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 30
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 23
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 claims description 16
- 238000005096 rolling process Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 10
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000005097 cold rolling Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000012224 working solution Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- PMZURENOXWZQFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O PMZURENOXWZQFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000009499 grossing Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000001397 quillaja saponaria molina bark Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229930182490 saponin Natural products 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000007949 saponins Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000002791 soaking Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000984 vat dye Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004721 Polyphenylene oxide Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 244000269722 Thea sinensis Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000007942 carboxylates Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000009833 condensation Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000005494 condensation Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000007639 printing Methods 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 abstract description 2
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 13
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 10
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 8
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 description 8
- 241000219146 Gossypium Species 0.000 description 7
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 6
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 239000000675 fabric finishing Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000009962 finishing (textile) Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000009990 desizing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000009954 braiding Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229910052938 sodium sulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 235000011152 sodium sulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005517 mercerization Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000009999 singeing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 description 2
- YKTSYUJCYHOUJP-UHFFFAOYSA-N [O--].[Al+3].[Al+3].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] Chemical group [O--].[Al+3].[Al+3].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] YKTSYUJCYHOUJP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000000137 annealing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001680 brushing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004132 cross linking Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000000373 fatty alcohol group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 1
- JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N p-toluenesulfonic acid Substances CC1=CC=C(S(O)(=O)=O)C=C1 JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000005489 p-toluenesulfonic acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000011056 performance test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920000056 polyoxyethylene ether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940051841 polyoxyethylene ether Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000002265 prevention Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007858 starting material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/22—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using vat dyestuffs including indigo
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
- D06P3/8223—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups
- D06P3/8228—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups using one kind of dye
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
- Y02P70/00—Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
- Y02P70/50—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
- Y02P70/62—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to a non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric and a preparation method thereof. The non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric comprises the following layers: the warp yarn adopts the yarn of the Jacel fiber, the weft yarn adopts the yarn of the Xinjiang long staple cotton, the specification of the fabric is GRACELL40 times CM40 times 120 times 70 times 53/54, and the fabric structure is 3/2CP. The preparation method comprises the following process flows: cold pad-batch, water washing, alkali shrinking, dyeing, air washing, tentering and preshrinking. The invention provides a non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric which is not easy to shrink and low in cost, and can be applied to casual clothing and shirts.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to a non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The warp and weft double-stretch fabric has higher stretching degree than the common fabric, and has the advantages of stiff and smooth wearing, soft hand feeling, relaxation and comfort. The common warp and weft double-elastic fabric is characterized in that elastic yarns such as spandex are coated in yarns, the cost is high, the products are difficult to spread in middle-low end markets, and the shrinkage problem of the warp and weft double-elastic fabric is caused by unstable elastic yarn forms, generally, the most common scheme for solving the problem is high-temperature shaping or resin non-ironing, for example, patent CN108004646B discloses a processing technology of warp and weft double-elastic fabric in which spandex is adopted as warp yarns and pure cotton is adopted as weft yarns, and the processing technology comprises the following steps: weaving-designing-singeing-desizing-scouring-oxygen bleaching-dry setting-mercerizing-liquid ammonia-whitening-non-ironing-softening, for example, patent CN111962314A discloses a four-side stretch fabric and a manufacturing process thereof, wherein the shrinkage is controlled by adopting two modes of dry setting and resin finishing, and the method comprises the following steps of setting and drying: putting the grey cloth into a baking box, baking at 180-190 ℃ and setting the cloth moving speed to be 15-20m/min; and (3) post-treatment, namely pouring 1.5-2.5% of resin into a treatment pool, fully immersing the shaped and dried grey cloth into the liquid, keeping for 15-25 minutes, fishing out and drying, brushing the liquid containing 1.5-2.5% of resin on two sides of the grey cloth uniformly by using a hairbrush, and drying the grey cloth by using a hot air blower.
CN101392425B discloses a method for producing polyester-cotton blended weft elastic fabric without elastic yarn, which sequentially comprises the steps of grey fabric manufacture, grey fabric stitch turning, grey fabric singeing, desizing, shaping, dyeing, preshrinking and finishing, loose mercerizing after the desizing step and before the shaping step, and loose padding after the dyeing step and before the preshrinking step. By using the finishing method, the polyester-cotton blended fabric is easy to retract due to small warp density before singeing and desizing, the width can be contracted after desizing, the wool effect is increased, the polyester-cotton blended fabric is loosely piled in a J-shaped box after loose mercerization, and mercerization is completed under the condition of no tension in weft direction, so that the width can be fully contracted, and excellent elastic effect can be obtained.
CN102443930a discloses a polyester-cotton blended fabric without stretch yarn, weft yarn is formed by blending polyester staple fiber and long staple cotton, warp yarn is formed by blending polyester fiber and cotton fiber, and the polyester-cotton blended fabric without stretch yarn, i.e. spandex yarn, has stable elasticity and size.
CN106702574a discloses a method for producing warp and weft double elastic yarn-dyed non-ironing fabric, wherein warp and weft yarns of the fabric are cotton core-spun yarns with spandex as yarn cores, or the cotton core-spun yarns with spandex as yarn cores and pure cotton yarns of the fabric are arranged at intervals one to one, single yarns of the cotton core-spun yarns are 40-60-inch-wrapped 30D-75D spandex, strands are 80-100-inch-wrapped 20D-30D spandex double strands, single yarns of the pure cotton yarns are 40-60 inch-wrapped, strands are 80-100-inch double strands, the twist ranges of the core-spun single yarns and the pure cotton single yarns are 27T/in-34T/in, and the twist ranges of the strands are 20T/in-24T/in; the warp density of the fabric is 120-160 pieces/inch, and the weft density is 70-100 pieces/inch; the production process flow of the fabric comprises spinning, steaming and shaping, dyeing, weaving and finishing, and the finishing process flow comprises the steps of grey cloth annealing, alkali rolling, overflow water washing, super softening, preshrinking, moisture crosslinking non-ironing, water washing, tentering and preshrinking.
The patent documents can find that spandex or other elastic yarns are used for warp and weft yarns in the existing warp and weft double-stretch varieties, so that the cost is high, the shrinkage stability is poor, and the problem of hand feeling exists when the processing resin is required to finish and shrink stably, for example, CN106702574A, CN 108004646B; for example, CN108004646B, CN101392425B is designed according to specifications to achieve the effect of horizontal spring, but elastic yarns are used for warp yarns, and the problems of difficult control of warp shrinkage and high cost still exist.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing a non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric which is not easy to shrink and low in cost, and can be applied to casual clothing and shirts.
The invention relates to a non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric: the yarn adopts the yarn of the Jacel fiber, the weft yarn adopts the yarn of the Xinjiang long staple cotton, the specification of the fabric is GRACELL40 times 120 times 70 times 53/54, the fabric organization is 3/2CP, the elasticity in the longitude and latitude direction is more than 22 percent, the shrinkage in the longitude and latitude direction is 0- (-5 percent), and the hand feeling is soft.
The method comprises the following process flows: cold pad-batch, water washing, alkali shrinking, dyeing, air washing, tentering and preshrinking.
In the cold rolling and stacking process, the stacking time is 18-12h, the stacking temperature is 30-36 ℃, the vehicle speed is 40-50m/min, and the cold rolling and stacking liquid comprises the following components: 10-15g/L of caustic soda, 20-25g/L of tea saponin, 3-5g/L of stabilizer A and the balance of water.
In the water washing process, the working solution comprises the following components: 3-5g/L of penetrating agent, 3-4g/L of refining agent, 4-5g/L of stabilizer B and the balance of water; the time for passing through the steam box is 20-25 minutes, and the speed of the steam box is 40-45m/min.
In the alkali condensation process, the working solution comprises the following components: caustic soda: 256-300g/L, and the balance of water; the speed of the machine is 50-60m/min, the alkali soaking time is 2-2.5min, the alkali temperature is 50-52 ℃, the width is not expanded, and the fabric is retracted freely.
In the dyeing process, the padding-drying process, the dye uses high sun vat dye, the padding-drying speed is 30-40m/min, the color fixing process, the speed is 40-50m/min, the temperature of a steam box is 99+/-2 ℃, the overflow water is 3000-3600L/H, the temperature of a water washing tank is 95+/-2 ℃, and the temperature of anhydrous sodium sulfate is 40-50 m/min: 120-150g/L, sodium carbonate: 10-20g/L, anti-staining salt: 1-3g/L.
In the air washing process: the temperature is 110-120 ℃, the upper air quantity is 80%, the lower air quantity is 45%, and the exhaust air quantity is as follows: 70%, the treatment time of the drying room is 15-20min, the smoothing agent is 3-5g/L, and the balance is water.
In the tentering process, overfeeding is performed by more than 8%, the temperature of a drying room is 130-150 ℃, the width of the cropping is 150cm, the softening agent is 5-10g/L, and the balance is water.
The stabilizer A is a complex of carboxylate and polyether substance; the penetrating agent is a surfactant mixture without APEO; the refining agent is fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether esterified substance; the stabilizer B is a polybasic copolymerized organic phosphate; the anti-staining salt is p-toluenesulfonic acid; the smoothing agent is aluminum silicate mixture; the softening agent is amino polyether modified organic silicon.
In the pre-shrinking process, the speed of the vehicle is 30-50 m/mm, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 80+/-2 ℃, the temperature of the nick blanket is 130+/-5 ℃, and the rolling distance is 13+/-1 mm.
Specifically, the preparation method of the non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric comprises the following process flows:
(1) Cold rolling pile: the cold rolling and stacking time is 18-12h, the stacking temperature is 30-36 ℃, the vehicle speed is 40-50m/min, and the cold rolling and stacking liquid comprises the following components: 10-15g/L of caustic soda, 20-25g/L of tea saponin, 3-5g/L of stabilizer A and the balance of water.
(2) Washing: the working solution comprises the following components: 3-5g/L of penetrating agent, 3-4g/L of refining agent, 4-5g/L of stabilizer B and the balance of water; the time for passing through the steam box is 20-25 minutes, and the speed of the steam box is 40-45m/min.
(3) Alkali shrinkage: the working solution comprises the following components: caustic soda: 256-300g/L, and the balance of water; the speed of the fabric is 50-60m/min, the alkali soaking time is 2-2.5min, the alkali temperature is 50-52 ℃, the fabric is not expanded, and the fabric is free to retract.
(4) Dyeing: a rolling and drying process, wherein high sun vat dye is used as dye, the rolling and drying speed is 30-40m/min, the speed is 40-50m/min in the color fixing process, the temperature of a steam box is 99+/-2 ℃, the overflow water is 3000-3600L/H, the temperature of a water washing tank is 95+/-2 ℃, and the temperature of anhydrous sodium sulphate is fixed: 120-150g/L, sodium carbonate: 10-20g/L, anti-staining salt: 1-3g/L.
(5) And (3) air washing: the temperature is 110-120 ℃, the upper air quantity is 80%, the lower air quantity is 45%, and the exhaust air quantity is as follows: 70%, the treatment time of the drying room is 15-20min, the smoothing agent is 3-5g/L, and the balance is water.
(6) Tentering: overfeeding more than 8%, drying room temperature 130-150 ℃, plaiting width 150cm, softening agent 5-10g/L, and water in balance.
(7) Preshrinking: the speed of the vehicle is 30-50 m/mm, the temperature of the blanket is 80+/-2 ℃, the temperature of the nick blanket is 130+/-5 ℃, and the rolling distance is 13+/-1 mm.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
(1) The non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric provided by the invention has the advantages that the warp yarns are made of the Jacel fiber yarns, the weft yarns are made of the Xinjiang long-staple cotton yarns, the warp-weft double-stretch function is realized, and the fabric cost is low;
(2) The non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric disclosed by the invention does not use stretch fiber, and is good in width and shrinkage stability and stable in quality;
(3) The preparation method of the non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-elastic fabric avoids the disadvantages of dry shaping and resin non-ironing of the traditional warp-weft double-elastic fabric, ensures the hand feeling of the fabric, and has short flow and high cost performance.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific examples.
The reagents and starting materials mentioned in the examples and comparative examples below are commercially available.
Stabilizer A, brand number used in the examples below: ST-F, manufacturer: zibo Lu Rui Fine chemical Co., ltd;
penetrant, brand: WA-X, manufacturer: zibo Lu Rui Fine chemical Co., ltd;
refining agent, brand: SA-U, manufacturer: zibo Lu Rui Fine chemical Co., ltd;
stabilizer B, brand: SQ-A, manufacturer: zibo Lu Rui Fine chemical Co., ltd;
salt-staining prevention, brand: FS-30, manufacturer: liaoning fixed star fine chemical Co., ltd;
smoothing agent, brand: SW, manufacturer: kelaien chemical (China) Co., ltd;
softening agent, brand: SMH-10, manufacturer: zibo Lu Rui Fine chemical Co.
Example 1
The non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric has the following finished product specification: gracil 40 CM40 x 120 x 70 x 53/54, tissue: 3/2CP, the fabric adopts the yarn of the Jacel fiber used as the warp yarn and the yarn of the Xinjiang long staple cotton used as the weft yarn.
The fabric finishing process flow is as follows: cold pad-batch, water washing, alkali shrinking, dyeing, air washing, tentering and preshrinking; the method comprises the following specific steps:
(1) Cold rolling pile: the stacking time is 8 hours, the stacking temperature is 30 ℃, the vehicle speed is 40m/min, and the composition of the working solution is as follows: 10g/L of caustic soda, 20g/L of Bo Cha saponin, 3g/L of stabilizer A and the balance of water.
(2) Washing: 3g/L of penetrating agent, 3g/L of refining agent, 4g/L of stabilizer B, 20 minutes of steaming time and 40m/min of vehicle speed.
(3) Alkali shrinkage: caustic soda: 256g/L, the speed of the vehicle is 50m/min, the alkali soaking time is 2min, the alkali temperature is 50 ℃, and the width is not expanded.
(4) Dyeing: a rolling drying process, namely using high sun vat dye, wherein the rolling drying speed is 30m/min, the color fixing process is carried out, the speed is 40m/min, the temperature of a steam box is 99+/-2 ℃, the overflow water is 3000L/H, the temperature of a water washing tank is 95+/-2 ℃, and anhydrous sodium sulphate is obtained: 120g/L, sodium carbonate: 10g/L, anti-staining salt: 1g/L.
(5) And (3) air washing: the temperature is 110 ℃, the upper air quantity is 80%, the lower air quantity is 45%, and the exhaust quantity is as follows: 70%, treating time of drying room is 15min, working solution: the smoothing agent is 3g/L, and the balance is water.
(6) Tentering: overfeeding 12%, drying room temperature 150 ℃, cloth width 137cm, softening agent 10g/L.
(7) Preshrinking: the speed of the vehicle is 30 m/mm, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 80 ℃, the temperature of the nick blanket is 130 ℃, and the rolling distance is 13mm.
Example 2
The non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric has the following finished product specification: gracil 40 CM40 x 120 x 70 x 53/54, tissue: 3/2CP, the fabric adopts the yarn of the Jacel fiber used as the warp yarn and the yarn of the Xinjiang long staple cotton used as the weft yarn.
The fabric finishing process flow is as follows: cold pad-batch, water washing, alkali shrinking, dyeing, air washing, tentering and preshrinking; the method comprises the following specific steps:
(1) Cold rolling pile: the stacking time is 12h, the stacking temperature is 36 ℃, the vehicle speed is 50m/min, and the composition of the working solution is as follows: 15g/L of caustic soda, 25g/L of Bo Cha saponin, 5g/L of stabilizer A and the balance of water.
(2) Washing: 5g/L of penetrating agent, 4g/L of refining agent and 5g/L of stabilizer B, wherein the stacking time of a steam box is 25 minutes, and the speed of the steam box is 45m/min.
(3) Alkali shrinkage: caustic soda: 300g/L, the speed of the vehicle is 60m/min, the alkali soaking time is 2.5min, the alkali temperature is 52 ℃, and the width is not expanded.
(4) Dyeing: a rolling drying process, namely using high sun vat dye, wherein the rolling drying speed is 40m/min, the color fixing process is carried out, the speed is 50m/min, the temperature of a steam box is 99+/-2 ℃, the temperature of overflow water is 3600L/H, the temperature of a water washing tank is 95+/-2 ℃, and anhydrous sodium sulphate is used as dye: 150g/L, sodium carbonate: 20g/L, anti-staining salt: 3g/L.
(5) And (3) air washing: the temperature is 120 ℃, the upper air quantity is 80%, the lower air quantity is 45%, and the exhaust quantity is as follows: 70%, drying room treatment time is 20min, smoothing agent A is 5g/L, and the balance is water.
(6) Tentering: overfeeding 8%, drying room temperature 130 ℃, plaiting width 137cm, softening agent 5g/L
(7) Preshrinking: the speed of the vehicle is 50 m/mm, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 80 ℃, the temperature of the nick blanket is 130 ℃, and the rolling distance is 14mm.
Comparative example 1
The fabric prepared in this comparative example has the same grammage and spinning mode as the fabric in example 1, and the fabric finished product specification CM40 CM 120 CM 70 CM 53/54, and the structure: and 3/2CP, wherein both the warp yarn and the weft yarn of the fabric use Xinjiang long-staple cotton yarns.
The fabric finishing process flow is exactly the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 2
The fabric prepared in this comparative example has the same gram weight and the same material as the fabric in example 1, and the specification, texture and yarn of the finished product of the fabric are completely the same.
The fabric finishing process is basically the same as that of example 1, and the only difference is that: and (3) a raw air washing procedure.
Comparative example 3
The fabric prepared in this comparative example has the same gram weight and the same material as the fabric in example 1, and the specification, texture and yarn of the finished product of the fabric are completely the same.
The fabric finishing process is basically the same as that of example 1, and the only difference is that: tentering procedure, temperature 130 ℃, softening agent: 5g/L, and the width of the plaiting cloth is 137cm.
Comparative example 4
The fabric material, yarn, texture and finishing process flow prepared in this comparative example were exactly the same as in example 1, except that the final gauge density was graacell 40 CM 130 x 75 x 53/54.
The two-shot face fabric prepared in the above examples and comparative examples was tested for shrinkage according to AATCC 135-2014 1-IVA (i), and for elasticity in the warp and weft directions according to ASTM D3107-2011, and for hand feel, the more hand feel was the better, and the test results are shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1 Performance test results
Of course, the foregoing is merely preferred embodiments of the present invention and is not to be construed as limiting the scope of the embodiments of the present invention. The present invention is not limited to the above examples, and those skilled in the art will appreciate that the present invention is capable of equally varying and improving within the spirit and scope of the present invention.
Claims (1)
1. A preparation method of a non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the fabric warp adopts a Jacel fiber yarn, the weft adopts a Xinjiang long-staple cotton yarn, the specification of the fabric is GRACELL40 times CM40 times 120 times 70 times 53/54, and the fabric organization is 3/2CP;
the method comprises the following process flows: cold pad-batch, water washing, alkali shrinking, dyeing, air washing, tentering and preshrinking;
in the cold rolling and stacking process, the stacking time is 18-12h, the stacking temperature is 30-36 ℃, the vehicle speed is 40-50m/min, and the cold rolling and stacking liquid comprises the following components: 10-15g/L of caustic soda, 20-25g/L of tea saponin, 3-5g/L of stabilizer A and the balance of water;
in the alkali condensation process, the working solution comprises the following components: caustic soda: 256-300g/L, and the balance of water; the speed of the machine is 50-60m/min, the alkali soaking time is 2-2.5min, the alkali temperature is 50-52 ℃, the width is not expanded, and the fabric is retracted freely;
in the water washing process, the working solution comprises the following components: 3-5g/L of penetrating agent, 3-4g/L of refining agent, 4-5g/L of stabilizer B and the balance of water; the time for passing through the steam box is 20-25 minutes, and the speed of the steam box is 40-45m/min;
the stabilizer A is a complex of carboxylate and polyether substance; the stabilizer B is a polybasic copolymerized organic phosphate;
in the dyeing process, the padding-drying process, the dye uses high sun vat dye, the padding-drying speed is 30-40m/min, the color fixing process, the speed is 40-50m/min, the temperature of a steam box is 99+/-2 ℃, the overflow water is 3000-3600L/H, the temperature of a water washing tank is 95+/-2 ℃, and the temperature of anhydrous sodium sulfate is 40-50 m/min: 120-150g/L, sodium carbonate: 10-20g/L, anti-staining salt: 1-3g/L;
in the air washing process: the temperature is 110-120 ℃, the upper air quantity is 80%, the lower air quantity is 45%, and the exhaust air quantity is as follows: 70%, the treatment time of a drying room is 15-20min, the smoothing agent is 3-5g/L, and the balance is water;
in the tentering procedure, tentering overfeeds more than 8%, the temperature of a drying room is 130-150 ℃, the width of a cropping is 150cm, the softening agent is 5-10g/L, and the balance is water;
in the pre-shrinking process, the speed of the vehicle is 30-50 m/mm, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 80+/-2 ℃, the temperature of the nick blanket is 130+/-5 ℃, and the rolling distance is 13+/-1 mm.
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Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2352905A1 (en) * | 1976-05-25 | 1977-12-23 | Lescroart Louis | Two-way stretch fabric comprising gauze with inverted binding - for moulded foundation garments providing support without excessive pressure |
| JPH03152237A (en) * | 1989-11-06 | 1991-06-28 | Teijin Ltd | Woven fabric stretchable in two directions |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN102443930A (en) * | 2011-10-31 | 2012-05-09 | 苏州创宇织造有限公司 | Stretch-yarn-free polyester-cotton blended fabric |
| CN106835449A (en) * | 2017-03-23 | 2017-06-13 | 宜兴乐威牛仔布有限公司 | 360 degree of the tencel comfortable denim fabric of double bullets |
| CN216193055U (en) * | 2021-11-01 | 2022-04-05 | 增城市新昌景纺织品有限公司 | Denim fabric with compact structure, softness and skin friendliness |
| CN114622326B (en) * | 2022-03-21 | 2023-10-31 | 上海日播至美服饰制造有限公司 | Hemp cotton fabric, preparation method thereof and garment |
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Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2352905A1 (en) * | 1976-05-25 | 1977-12-23 | Lescroart Louis | Two-way stretch fabric comprising gauze with inverted binding - for moulded foundation garments providing support without excessive pressure |
| JPH03152237A (en) * | 1989-11-06 | 1991-06-28 | Teijin Ltd | Woven fabric stretchable in two directions |
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