CN115282085A - Application of acetylated xylan as functional additive in cosmetics - Google Patents
Application of acetylated xylan as functional additive in cosmetics Download PDFInfo
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- CN115282085A CN115282085A CN202211052387.6A CN202211052387A CN115282085A CN 115282085 A CN115282085 A CN 115282085A CN 202211052387 A CN202211052387 A CN 202211052387A CN 115282085 A CN115282085 A CN 115282085A
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- xylan
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08B—POLYSACCHARIDES; DERIVATIVES THEREOF
- C08B37/00—Preparation of polysaccharides not provided for in groups C08B1/00 - C08B35/00; Derivatives thereof
- C08B37/0006—Homoglycans, i.e. polysaccharides having a main chain consisting of one single sugar, e.g. colominic acid
- C08B37/0057—Homoglycans, i.e. polysaccharides having a main chain consisting of one single sugar, e.g. colominic acid beta-D-Xylans, i.e. xylosaccharide, e.g. arabinoxylan, arabinofuronan, pentosans; (beta-1,3)(beta-1,4)-D-Xylans, e.g. rhodymenans; Hemicellulose; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Abstract
The invention discloses application of acetylated xylan as a functional additive in cosmetics. The invention uses the acetylated xylan as a functional additive to be used in cosmetics, wherein the functional additive is at least one of a dispersant, an emulsifier, a stabilizer, a thickener and a sun-screening agent, and can play the following functions: (1) Dispersed water/oil-insoluble inorganic additives such as zinc oxide, titanium oxide, silica, and the like; (2) Mixing and stabilizing cosmetic oil-soluble ingredients and water-soluble ingredients as an emulsifier; (3) As a natural chemical sunscreen agent, endows the cosmetics with a sunscreen function or enhances the sunscreen performance of sunscreen skin care products; the cosmetic has the advantages of good skin feel, strong stability, excellent emulsifying and dispersing performances, good ultraviolet resistance and the like.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of biomass refining and fine chemicals, and particularly relates to application of acetylated xylan as a functional additive in cosmetics.
Background
Hemicellulose is a plant source polysaccharide with abundant reserves, wherein xylan is a typical hemicellulose and is widely present in various lignocellulosic biomasses such as broad-leaved wood, bagasse, corncobs, crop straws, oil tea shells and the like. The xylan backbone is composed of (1 → 4) - β -D-xylopyranosyl, and has a branched chain composed of glycosyl groups such as α -L-arabinofuranosyl and/or α -D-glucuronosyl, depending on the plant origin. In addition to the branched structure, the hydroxyl groups on the xylan backbone are also partially acetylated; the acetyl groups are linked to part of the C3 and/or C2 positions of the xylan backbone glycosyl groups via acetate linkages. The degree of acetylation of xylan in hardwood wood is 0.3-0.7, that in xylem of gramineous plants is about 0.3, and that in softwood wood is generally not acetylated. Acetyl groups confer functionality to xylan in two ways. Firstly, acetyl has hydrophobicity, enables xylan molecules to have amphipathy consisting of a hydrophilic chain segment and a hydrophobic chain segment, and can be used as an emulsifier, a dispersant, a stabilizer and the like. Secondly, the acetyl group has active carbon-oxygen double bond group, and has synergistic effect with carboxyl, hydroxyl and hydrogen bond structure on xylan structure, and the structural characteristics endow acetylated xylan with good ultraviolet absorption performance. Organic solvent extraction and alkaline extraction are common methods for isolating xylan. After the lignocellulose is obtained by carrying out delignification pretreatment on the wood fiber raw material, xylan extracted from the holocellulose by using an organic solvent such as dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) can well keep the original structure of the xylan, and most acetyl groups are kept. The alkaline extraction method has high yield, but acetyl groups on xylan are easy to remove in the alkaline extraction process, so that the natural amphipathy and ultraviolet absorptivity of xylan are damaged. Acetyl is uniformly introduced into alkali extraction xylan molecular chains and the substitution degree of the alkali extraction xylan molecular chains is regulated by a chemical derivatization method, so that excellent amphipathy and ultraviolet absorptivity can be endowed to xylan again.
In the preparation process of cosmetics, an emulsifier, a dispersant, a stabilizer and the like are required to be used for uniformly mixing components with different solubilities to achieve certain effects and functions, but the commonly used auxiliary agents are often chemical synthesis products, have poor biocompatibility and are easy to cause skin allergic reaction. Physical sunscreens commonly used in sunscreen skin care products generally include inorganic particles having a strong reflection effect on ultraviolet rays, such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and silicon dioxide, but are not comfortable and beautiful in use. The commonly used chemical sunscreen agents are mainly organic small molecular compounds, mainly including salicylates, benzophenones, benzotriazoles, substituted acrylonitrile, triazines and the like, and the sunscreen agents easily permeate into the inner layer of the skin to cause anaphylactic reaction and even DNA variation. Therefore, the development and utilization of natural cosmetic additives or functional additives become a new research focus. At present, only a few plant extracts are used in high-end cosmetics, and the defects of high extraction cost, complex extraction process, single or poor effect and the like generally exist, so that the further development and utilization are limited. Compared with other chemical additives, the acetylated xylan has the advantages of wide raw material source, low extraction cost, no toxicity, no harm, natural biocompatibility, excellent dispersion and emulsibility, better ultraviolet absorptivity and the like. Therefore, the invention advocates the application of the natural additive or functional auxiliary agent as a high-efficiency natural additive or functional auxiliary agent in cosmetics.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to overcome the defects and shortcomings in the prior art, the invention aims to provide the application of the acetylated xylan as the functional auxiliary agent in the cosmetics.
The acetylated xylan which is natural or obtained through chemical derivatization is used as an efficient natural additive or a functional assistant to be applied to cosmetics, has the advantages of wide raw material source, low extraction/preparation cost, good biocompatibility, excellent amphipathy, good ultraviolet absorptivity and the like, and has the advantages of good skin feel, strong stability, excellent emulsifying and dispersing performances, good ultraviolet resistance and the like when being added into the cosmetics.
The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
the application of the acetylated xylan in cosmetics specifically comprises the following steps: the acetylated xylan is used for preparing cosmetics, and the content of the acetylated xylan in the finally obtained cosmetics is 0.5-15 wt%.
Preferably, the acetylated xylan is added into a cosmetic formula or raw materials to prepare a cosmetic, or added into a finished cosmetic product to be uniformly mixed to obtain the target cosmetic.
Preferably, the acetylated xylan is used in cosmetics as a functional additive, and the functional additive is at least one of a dispersant, an emulsifier, a stabilizer, a thickener, and a sunscreen agent.
The dispersants and stabilizers are used to disperse stabilize water/oil insoluble inorganic additives such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, silica; the emulsifier is used for mixing and stabilizing the cosmetic oil-soluble ingredients and the water-soluble ingredients.
The acetylated xylan is added into cosmetics as a functional additive, and can play the following functions: (1) Dispersed water/oil-insoluble inorganic additives such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, silica, and the like; (2) Mixing and stabilizing cosmetic oil-soluble ingredients and water-soluble ingredients as an emulsifier; (3) As a natural chemical sunscreen agent, to impart sunscreen function to cosmetics or to enhance sunscreen properties of sunscreen skin care products.
Preferably, the acetylated xylan is present in an amount of 5 to 15wt% in the finally obtained cosmetic.
Preferably, the acetylated xylan is a natural acetylated xylan and/or an acetylated xylan resulting from chemical derivatization.
Preferably, the natural acetylated xylan is prepared by the following method: carrying out delignification treatment on a wood fiber raw material to obtain holocellulose; and then treating the holocellulose with an organic solvent, and extracting to obtain the natural acetylated xylan.
More preferably, the reagent used for the delignification treatment is at least one of chlorine gas, chlorine dioxide, sodium chlorite and peracetic acid compounds; the organic solvent is at least one of dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), dioxane and ionic liquid.
More preferably, the lignocellulosic feedstock is a variety of lignocellulosic feedstocks including at least one of hardwood, bagasse, corn cobs, crop straw, chaff, fruit shells, fruit peels, and seed coats.
Preferably, the preparation method of the acetylated xylan obtained by chemical derivatization is as follows:
dissolving alkali-extracted xylan in an organic solution or a metal salt organic solution, adjusting the pH of the system to 5.0-9.0, adding an acetylation reagent, reacting at 40-90 ℃ for 1-3 h, finishing the reaction, and purifying to obtain the chemically derivatized acetylated xylan.
More preferably, the alkali-extracted xylan is xylan extracted from lignocellulosic feedstock using an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide.
More preferably, the solid-to-liquid ratio of the alkali-extracted xylan to the organic solution is 1g:10 mL-1 g:100mL; more preferably 1g:12 mL-1 g:20mL; the concentration of the metal salt organic solution is 0.1-1 wt%; in the metal salt organic solution, the metal salt is at least one of sodium chloride, lithium chloride, sodium bromide and lithium bromide; and the solvent in the organic solution and the metal salt organic solution is at least one of N, N-dimethylformamide, N-dimethylacetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide and tetrahydrofuran.
More preferably, the acetylating agent is at least one of acetyl chloride, acetic anhydride and glacial acetic acid; the molar ratio of the alkali-extracted xylan to the acetylation reagent is 10:1 to 1:10.
compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages and beneficial effects:
the acetylated xylan applied by the invention has the advantages of wide raw material source, low extraction/preparation cost, good biocompatibility, excellent amphipathy, better ultraviolet absorptivity and the like, and has the advantages of good skin feel, strong stability, excellent emulsifying and dispersing performances, better ultraviolet resistance and the like when being added into cosmetics.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a physical diagram of the emulsion obtained in example 2 after being left for 3 months.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples and drawings, but the embodiments of the present invention are not limited thereto.
Those who do not specify specific conditions in the examples of the present invention follow conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The raw materials, reagents and the like used without reference to manufacturers are all conventional products which can be obtained by commercial purchase.
Example 1
Bagasse alkali-extracted xylan (air-dried at 25 ℃ and RH = 50) having an air-dried mass of 10g and a dimethyl sulfoxide solution (concentration of 1 wt%) were weighed so as to have a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1:12 (m: v, unit is g/mL), adjusting the pH of the system to 7 by using triethylamine and glacial acetic acid, adding 1g of acetyl chloride, and stirring and reacting for 3 hours at 50 ℃ and 200 rpm; after the reaction is finished, cooling the reaction solution to room temperature, adding the reaction solution into absolute ethyl alcohol (the volume ratio of the reaction solution to the absolute ethyl alcohol is 1; and (3) precipitating the separated acetylated xylan, continuously washing the precipitate for more than three times by using an ethanol water solution with the volume percentage concentration of 70%, placing the precipitate in a ventilated place to volatilize ethanol, and drying the precipitate to obtain the acetylated xylan.
The prepared acetylated xylan and titanium dioxide are prepared into a dispersion liquid according to the mass ratio of 1. When the concentration of titanium dioxide is 0.1mg/mL, the dispersion efficiency is 92% (the dispersion efficiency means that 92wt% of the added titanium dioxide can be uniformly dispersed, and the rest 8wt% forms precipitate); when the concentration of titanium dioxide is 1mg/mL (xylan accounts for 0.1wt% of the total system), the dispersion efficiency is 85%; when the concentration of titanium dioxide is 10mg/mL (xylan accounts for 1wt% of the total system), the dispersion efficiency is 72%.
Example 2
Crushing the dried broad-leaved wood strips by a plant crusher and screening out wood chips of 40-60 meshes. Using a conical flask, a certain amount of wood chips is added into a 6wt% sodium chlorite solution in a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1. Filtering the reaction solution by using a filter funnel after the reaction is finished, and continuously extracting the wood chips by using a fresh sodium chlorite solution; the above reaction was repeated 3 times. After the reaction was complete, the residual wood fibers were washed with a filter funnel. Washing with deionized water for 3 times, washing with pure alcohol for 3 times, uniformly spreading the residual wood fiber, standing in a fume hood for 6 hours, weighing after most of alcohol is volatilized, and measuring the water content to obtain the holocellulose.
Holocellulose was extracted by magnetic stirring in a conical flask with dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) at a solid to liquid ratio of 1. After the reaction, the solid was filtered, washed with DMSO, and the filtrate and wash were collected. Adding the filtrate into pure alcohol with the volume of 3 times of the filtrate for precipitation, standing overnight, collecting the precipitate by using a centrifugal method, washing the precipitate for 3 times by using the pure alcohol, standing for 6 hours in a room, and freeze-drying after most of the alcohol is volatilized to obtain the natural acetylated hemicellulose (acetylated xylan).
Weighing 2g of the extracted acetylated xylan, dispersing in deionized water to prepare 100mL of dispersion liquid with the concentration of 2wt%, mixing the obtained acetylated xylan dispersion liquid with medium chain triglyceride in a ratio of 4:1, treating the mixed solution for 2min by using an ultrasonic probe under the ice bath condition at a power density of 10W/mL to obtain a uniform oil-water emulsion, wherein the emulsifying activity is 1.3, the emulsion index is less than 5%, and the emulsion is not obviously layered after being placed for 3 months.
Example 3
Preparing a lithium chloride/dimethylformamide solution with the concentration of 1wt%, weighing bagasse alkali xylan with the air-drying mass of 10g (air-drying in air with the temperature of 25 ℃ and RH = 60) and mixing the bagasse alkali xylan with the solution-solid ratio of 1:30 (m: v, unit is g/mL), adjusting the pH of the system to 5 by using triethylamine and glacial acetic acid, adding 1g of glacial acetic acid, and stirring and reacting for 1h at 60 ℃ and 200 rpm; after the reaction is finished, cooling the reaction solution to room temperature, adding the reaction solution into anhydrous propanol (the volume ratio of the reaction solution to the anhydrous propanol is 1; and (3) precipitating the separated acetylated xylan, continuously washing the precipitate for more than three times by using a propanol aqueous solution with the volume percentage concentration of 70%, placing the precipitate in a ventilation place to volatilize propanol, and then drying the precipitate to obtain the acetylated xylan.
16mL of deionized water, 55mL of olive oil, 12mL of glycerol, 6mL of butanediol, 1g of magnesium phosphate, 1g of zinc oxide, 4g of titanium dioxide and 5g of the prepared acetylated xylan (serving as an emulsifying and dispersing agent) are mixed for 24 hours at the rotating speed of 1000rpm to obtain stable and uniform emulsion/cream, the xylan ratio is about 5wt%, and no layering phenomenon occurs after the emulsion/cream is placed for 3 months.
For comparison, 16mL of deionized water, 55mL of olive oil, 12mL of glycerin, 6mL of butylene glycol, 1g of magnesium phosphate, 1g of zinc oxide, and 4g of titanium dioxide were mixed at 1000rpm for 24 hours, failing to obtain a stable and uniform emulsion/cream, and the layers were quickly separated after the stirring was stopped.
Example 4
Crushing the corn stalks by a plant crusher. Using an erlenmeyer flask, adding a certain amount of corn straw into a sodium chlorite solution with the concentration of 3wt% in a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1. Filtering the reaction solution by using a filter funnel after the reaction is finished, and continuously extracting the corn straws by using a fresh sodium chlorite solution; the above reaction was repeated 2 times. After the reaction is finished, cleaning residual straw fibers by using a filter funnel. Washing with deionized water for 3 times, washing with pure alcohol for 3 times, uniformly spreading the residual straw fiber, standing in a fume hood for 6 hours, weighing after most of alcohol is volatilized, and measuring the water content to obtain the holocellulose.
The holocellulose was extracted by magnetic stirring in a conical flask with a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1 (DMSO) at 25 ℃ for 48 hours. After the reaction, the solid was filtered, washed with DMSO, and the filtrate and wash were collected. Adding the filtrate into pure alcohol with the volume of 3 times of the filtrate for precipitation, standing overnight, collecting the precipitate by using a centrifugal method, cleaning for 3 times by using the pure alcohol, standing for 6 hours indoors, and freeze-drying after most of the alcohol is volatilized to obtain the natural acetylated hemicellulose.
10mL of deionized water, 51mL of olive oil, 15mL of glycerin, 8mL of butanediol, 1g of magnesium phosphate and 15g of the prepared acetylated xylan are mixed for 24 hours at the rotating speed of 1000rpm to obtain stable and uniform emulsion/cream, the xylan ratio is about 15wt%, and the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value of the emulsion/cream is measured to be 16.58. The cosmetic formulation has no sunscreen effect if acetylated xylan is not added.
The above embodiments are preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and any other changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications which do not depart from the spirit and principle of the present invention should be construed as equivalents thereof, and all such modifications are intended to be included in the scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. The application of the acetylated xylan in the cosmetics is characterized in that the acetylated xylan is used for preparing the cosmetics, and the acetylated xylan accounts for 0.5-15 wt% of the cosmetics finally obtained.
2. The use of acetylated xylan in cosmetics according to claim 1 wherein the acetylated xylan is added to a cosmetic formulation or raw material to prepare a cosmetic, or added to a finished cosmetic product and mixed uniformly to obtain the target cosmetic.
3. Use of acetylated xylan in cosmetics according to claim 1, wherein the acetylated xylan is used in cosmetics as a functional additive, the functional additive being at least one of a dispersant, an emulsifier, a stabilizer, a thickener, and a sunscreen.
4. Use of acetylated xylan in cosmetics according to claim 1 wherein the percentage of acetylated xylan in the final resulting cosmetic is between 5 and 15wt%.
5. Use of acetylated xylan in cosmetics according to claim 1 wherein said acetylated xylan is a natural acetylated xylan and/or an acetylated xylan resulting from chemical derivatization.
6. Use of acetylated xylan in cosmetics according to claim 5 wherein the natural acetylated xylan is prepared by the following process: carrying out delignification treatment on the wood fiber raw material to obtain holocellulose; and then carrying out organic solvent treatment on the holocellulose, and extracting to obtain the natural acetylated xylan.
7. Use of acetylated xylan in cosmetics according to claim 6 wherein the agent used for delignification is at least one of chlorine, chlorine dioxide, sodium chlorite and peracetic acid; the organic solvent is at least one of dimethyl sulfoxide, dioxane and ionic liquid;
the wood fiber raw material is at least one of broadleaf wood, bagasse, corncobs, crop straws, chaffs, husks, pericarps and seed coats.
8. Use of acetylated xylan in cosmetics according to claim 5 wherein said acetylated xylan resulting from chemical derivatization is prepared as follows:
dissolving alkali-extracted xylan in an organic solution or a metal salt organic solution, adjusting the pH of the system to 5.0-9.0, adding an acetylation reagent, reacting at 40-90 ℃ for 1-3 h, finishing the reaction, and purifying to obtain the chemically derivatized acetylated xylan.
9. Use of acetylated xylan in cosmetics according to claim 8 wherein said alkali extracted xylan and organic solution have a solid to liquid ratio of 1g:10 mL-1 g:100mL; the concentration of the metal salt organic solution is 0.1-1 wt%; in the metal salt organic solution, the metal salt is at least one of sodium chloride, lithium chloride, sodium bromide and lithium bromide; the solvent in the organic solution and the metal salt organic solution is at least one of N, N-dimethylformamide, N-dimethylacetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide and tetrahydrofuran;
the acetylation reagent is at least one of acetyl chloride, acetic anhydride and glacial acetic acid; the molar ratio of the alkali-extracted xylan to the acetylation reagent is 10:1 to 1:10.
10. use of acetylated xylan in cosmetics according to claim 8 wherein said alkali extracted xylan is a xylan extracted from lignocellulosic materials using an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide; the wood fiber raw material is at least one of broadleaf wood, bagasse, corncobs, crop straws, chaffs, husks, pericarps and seed coats.
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| CN114306103A (en) * | 2021-12-21 | 2022-04-12 | 华南理工大学 | High-stability lutein protective emulsion and preparation method thereof |
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| CN101394753A (en) * | 2006-01-20 | 2009-03-25 | 江崎格力高株式会社 | Method for improving affinity of sparingly soluble or insoluble substance in solvent using water-soluble xylan |
| CN110591117A (en) * | 2019-10-31 | 2019-12-20 | 江南大学 | Pickering emulsion stabilized by ginkgo shell cellulose and preparation method thereof |
| CN114306103A (en) * | 2021-12-21 | 2022-04-12 | 华南理工大学 | High-stability lutein protective emulsion and preparation method thereof |
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