CN115252465A - Oil-control and relieving skin care composition, cosmetic and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Oil-control and relieving skin care composition, cosmetic and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN115252465A
CN115252465A CN202210955687.9A CN202210955687A CN115252465A CN 115252465 A CN115252465 A CN 115252465A CN 202210955687 A CN202210955687 A CN 202210955687A CN 115252465 A CN115252465 A CN 115252465A
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oil
skin
cosmetic
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controlling
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CN115252465B (en
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王晓娜
郭海姣
徐佩佩
袁春颖
杨素珍
张辉
王倩
韩婷婷
郭芳钰
王兴凯
陈玉荣
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Shandong Furida Biological Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008Preparations for oily skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02ATECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

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Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and provides an oil-control and soothing skin-care composition, a cosmetic, and a preparation method and application thereof. The oil-control and relieving skin care composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-1.0 part of zinc hyaluronate, 1.0-20 parts of mallow fruit extract and 1.0-20 parts of peucedanum fallax extract. It can control oil by inhibiting 5 alpha-reductase and COX2 factor activity, and relieve by inhibiting IL-1 alpha, TNF-a and PGE2 factor activity. The oil-control, relieving and skin-care cosmetic solves the problem that the existing oil-control, relieving and skin-care cosmetic has poor oil-control and relieving effects, thereby having good practical popularization and application values.

Description

Oil-control and relieving skin care composition, cosmetic and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to an oil-control and soothing skin-care composition, a cosmetic, and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
The information in this background section is only for enhancement of understanding of the general background of the invention and is not necessarily to be construed as an admission or any form of suggestion that this information forms the prior art that is already known to a person of ordinary skill in the art.
Sebum is produced by sebaceous gland cells in the skin and then secreted to the surface of the skin, a sebaceous membrane formed on the surface of a human body by sebum and sweat is one of important components of the first barrier of the human body, and the normal sebum secretion is very important for maintaining the health state of the skin. Excessive skin oil secretion can cause poor appearance and uncomfortable touch of the skin, excessive sebum is distributed on the surface of the skin, dust is easily polluted, normal functions are exerted to a certain extent, and certain trouble is brought to activities of daily life for people. Therefore, oil control is an important solution to treat such skin problems, and at the same time, conditioning of oily skin is one of the problems that many consumers seek improvement.
Sebaceous gland dyssecretion is usually caused by hyperandrogenism, both testosterone and Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) are androgens, and DHT is 5-10 times as active as testosterone. The 5 alpha-reductase is a direct catalytic enzyme in the process of converting testosterone into DHT, and the expression of DHT can influence the proliferation and differentiation of sebaceous gland cells, so that the sebaceous glands secrete excessive grease.
Environmental, UVB, hormone and other factors can induce the expression of cyclooxygenase-2 (COX 2), COX2 is a key rate-limiting enzyme in the synthesis process of Prostaglandin (PGs), COX2 catalyzes arachidonic acid (arachidonic acid) to generate PGs, synthesized PGD2 and intermediate products are endogenous ligands of a peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor gamma (PPAR gamma), the activation of the PPAR gamma is cooperated with a retinal receptor (RXR) to form heterodimer, the expression of a series of target genes is started, the proliferation of sebocytes is stimulated, and the sebum secretion is increased.
Excessive grease secretion can cause the pressure in the catheter to increase, a hypoxic environment is formed, propionibacterium acnes can grow in the hypoxic environment, keratinocyte is stimulated to generate proinflammatory factors IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha and inflammatory mediators PGE2, the strong local reaction of the innate immune system can be caused by the release of the propionibacterium acnes when the catheter is ruptured, and pruritus, burning, stabbing pain and even erythema and the like with different degrees are generated.
The inventor finds that although a large number of cosmetics with oil control and relieving effects are publicized on the market at present, the problems of poor oil control and relieving effects, complex production and preparation process, high price and the like generally exist.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide an oil-controlling and relieving skin care composition, a cosmetic, a preparation method and an application thereof. Tests prove that the composition and the cosmetics provided by the invention have strong capabilities of inhibiting grease secretion and relieving skin, so that the composition and the cosmetics have good values of practical popularization and application.
In order to achieve the technical purpose, the technical scheme provided by the invention is as follows:
according to the first aspect of the invention, the oil-controlling and relaxing skin care composition comprises the following components in parts by mass:
0.1-1.0 part of zinc hyaluronate, 1-20 parts of mallow fruit extract and 1-20 parts of peucedanum fallax extract.
Wherein the molecular weight of the zinc hyaluronate is controlled to be 40-80 ten thousand Da, and preferably, the molecular weight of the zinc hyaluronate is 50-70 ten thousand Da.
The mallow fruit extract can be obtained in a commercially available mode, and in one embodiment of the invention, the mallow fruit extract is prepared by the following method:
s1, crushing and sieving a mallow fruit, and obtaining a mallow fruit percolate by using ethanol as a solvent and adopting a percolation method;
and S2, distilling and concentrating the mallow fruit percolate obtained in the step S1, and then adding glycerol into the mallow fruit percolate to obtain the mallow fruit percolate.
The peucedanum annuum extract can also be obtained in a commercially available manner, and in one embodiment of the invention, the peucedanum fallax hemsl extract is prepared by adopting the following method:
s1, crushing and sieving radix peucedani, soaking the crushed radix peucedani in ethanol for ultrasonic extraction, filtering, collecting filtrate, repeatedly extracting filter residues for 2-3 times, and combining the obtained filtrate;
s2, carrying out reduced pressure concentration on the filtrate obtained in the step S1, recovering ethanol until no alcohol smell exists, adding butanediol, stirring uniformly, and filtering to obtain the product.
In a second aspect of the present invention, there is provided the use of the above composition in the preparation of a cosmetic for oil control, soothing and skin care. Experiments prove that the composition can inhibit the activity of COX2 by inhibiting the activity of 5 alpha-reductase, thereby achieving the effects of effectively inhibiting grease secretion and controlling oil; meanwhile, the activity of IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha and PGE2 inflammatory factors can be inhibited, and an excellent relieving effect is achieved; meanwhile, the oil-controlling and skin-care cosmetic is safe and has no toxic or side effect, so that the oil-controlling and skin-care cosmetic can be applied to the cosmetics for controlling oil, relieving skin and protecting skin.
Accordingly, in a third aspect of the present invention, there is provided an oil-controlling, soothing, and skin-care cosmetic comprising the above composition.
The oil-controlling, soothing and skin-protecting cosmetic can also comprise other raw material ingredients which are allowed to be added in any cosmetic field, including but not limited to emulsifiers, emollients, humectants, thickeners and the like.
Meanwhile, different cosmetic formulations such as essence water, essence milk, essence cream and the like can be prepared by reasonably adding the raw material components, and meanwhile, the obtained cosmetics are further derived and prepared based on the basic cosmetics, which obviously belong to the protection scope of the application.
In a fourth aspect of the present invention, there is provided a process for preparing the above oil-controlling soothing skin care cosmetic, comprising the step of mixing a composition as described in the first aspect above with other raw material components.
In a fifth aspect of the present invention, there is provided the use of the above composition and/or cosmetic for oil control, soothing and skin care.
The beneficial technical effects of one or more technical schemes are as follows:
the oil control and relieving skin care cosmetic obtained by the technical scheme has excellent oil control and relieving capacity effects; the effects of effectively inhibiting the secretion of grease and controlling oil are achieved by inhibiting the activity of 5 alpha-reductase and the activity of COX2 in vitro; the excellent relieving effect is achieved by inhibiting the activity of IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha and PGE2 inflammatory factors in vitro; furthermore, the human body efficacy experiment tests prove that the cosmetic has good oil control and relieving functions and remarkable efficacy.
Meanwhile, the preparation method of the oil-control and soothing skin care cosmetic obtained by the technical scheme is simple and easy to implement, raw materials are easy to obtain, and the oil-control and soothing skin care cosmetic is suitable for mass production, so that the oil-control and soothing skin care cosmetic has a good value of practical application.
Drawings
In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the drawings required to be used in the description of the embodiments are briefly introduced below, and it is obvious that the drawings in the description below are only embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious for those skilled in the art that other drawings can be obtained according to the provided drawings without creative efforts.
FIG. 1: the effect of the different test samples on 5 α -reductase activity (# # indicates that p <0.01 compared to the blank control;. Indicates that p <0.01 compared to the negative control)
FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram: histograms of lipid drop synthetic oil red O staining of the test samples (# # indicates p <0.01 compared to blank control; # indicates p <0.01 compared to negative control; # indicates 0.01-P-Ap-0.05 compared to negative control)
FIG. 3: the product can be used to detect skin oil content (P < 0.001)
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of: comparative graph of change in oil content of skin after product application (. Dot., P < 0.001)
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of: skin soothing changes after product application are compared.
Detailed Description
It is to be understood that the following detailed description is exemplary and is intended to provide further explanation of the invention as claimed. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs.
It is noted that the terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of example embodiments according to the present application. As used herein, the singular forms "a", "an" and "the" are intended to include the plural forms as well, and it should be understood that when the terms "comprises" and/or "comprising" are used in this specification, they specify the presence of stated features, steps, operations, devices, components, and/or combinations thereof, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise.
In one exemplary embodiment of the present invention, an oil-controlling, soothing and skin-care composition is provided, which comprises the following components in parts by mass:
0.1-1.0 part of zinc hyaluronate, 1-20 parts of mallow fruit extract and 1-20 parts of peucedanum fallax extract.
Experiments prove that the combination of the zinc hyaluronate, the mallow fruit extract and the peucedanum praeruptorum dunn extract has good oil control and relieving effects, and can be used for improving the problem of oily skin in cosmetics.
Wherein the molecular weight of the zinc hyaluronate is controlled to be 40-80 ten thousand Da, and preferably, the molecular weight of the zinc hyaluronate is 50-70 ten thousand Da.
The mallow fruit extract can be obtained in a commercially available mode, and in one embodiment of the invention, the mallow fruit extract is prepared by the following method:
s1, crushing and sieving a mallow fruit, and obtaining a mallow fruit percolate by using ethanol as a solvent and adopting a percolation method;
and S2, distilling and concentrating the mallow fruit percolate obtained in the step S1, and then adding glycerol into the mallow fruit percolate to obtain the mallow fruit percolate.
Wherein the content of the first and second substances,
in the step S1, a 60-100 mesh sieve is selected in the sieving treatment, such as 60, 70, 80, 90 or 100 meshes; in one embodiment of the present invention, the sieving treatment is performed with an 80 mesh sieve.
The method for obtaining the mallow fruit percolate by using ethanol as a solvent and adopting a percolation method comprises the following specific steps:
placing the crushed and sieved mallow fruit powder into a percolation barrel, adding 3-8 times (preferably 5 times) of 30-70% (preferably 50%) ethanol for soaking for 6-12 h, collecting 10-20 times (preferably 15 times) of percolation extract of the mallow fruit powder at the flow rate of 7-10mL/min, and filtering to obtain filtrate.
In the step S2, the distillation and concentration are specifically carried out by adopting reduced pressure distillation treatment at 55-65 ℃, adding 1-1.5 times of glycerol of the residual concentrated solution when the filtrate is evaporated until the residual amount is 1/6-1/3 (preferably 1/5) of the original filtrate, stirring uniformly and filtering to obtain the product.
The peucedanum annuum extract can also be obtained by a commercial method, and in one embodiment of the invention, the peucedanum annuum extract is prepared by the following method:
s1, crushing and sieving radix peucedani, soaking the crushed radix peucedani in ethanol for ultrasonic extraction, filtering, collecting filtrate, repeatedly extracting filter residues for 2-3 times, and combining the obtained filtrate;
s2, carrying out reduced pressure concentration on the filtrate obtained in the step S1, recovering ethanol until no alcohol smell exists, adding butanediol, uniformly stirring, and filtering to obtain the product.
Wherein the content of the first and second substances,
in the step S1, a 30-60 mesh sieve is selected for sieving treatment, such as 30, 40, 50 or 60 meshes; in one embodiment of the present invention, the sieving treatment is performed with a 50 mesh sieve.
The ethanol is 60-85% ethanol, the material-liquid ratio (w/w) is 1:8-1, and the soaking time is 10-30min (preferably 20 min); the ultrasonic power is 100-300W (preferably 200W) in the ultrasonic extraction process, and the ultrasonic treatment time is 30-40min;
in the step S2, the reduced pressure concentration is specifically to perform reduced pressure distillation treatment at 50-60 ℃, recover ethanol until no alcohol smell exists to obtain the radix peucedani concentrate, add butanediol with the mass of 2-2.5 times of the weight of the radix peucedani concentrate, stir uniformly and filter to obtain the radix peucedani concentrate.
In another embodiment of the invention, the oil-controlling soothing skin care composition consists of the following components in parts by mass:
0.3 part of zinc hyaluronate, 10 parts of mallow fruit extract and 10 parts of peucedanum fallax extract.
In a second aspect of the present invention, there is provided the use of the above composition in the preparation of a cosmetic for oil control, soothing and skin care. Experiments prove that the composition can inhibit the activity of COX2 by inhibiting the activity of 5 alpha-reductase, thereby achieving the effects of effectively inhibiting oil secretion and controlling oil; meanwhile, the activity of IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha and PGE2 inflammatory factors can be externally inhibited, and an excellent relieving effect is achieved; meanwhile, the oil-control and skin-care cosmetic is safe and has no toxic or side effect, so that the oil-control and skin-care cosmetic can be applied to the cosmetics for controlling oil, relieving skin and protecting skin.
Therefore, in still another embodiment of the present invention, there is provided an oil-controlling, soothing and skin-protecting cosmetic comprising the above composition.
The oil-controlling soothing skin care cosmetic according to the present invention, wherein the oil-controlling soothing skin care composition is added in an amount of 0.5-40%, preferably 2-25%, such as 2%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30% or 40% by mass of the total oil-controlling soothing skin care cosmetic.
The oil-controlling, soothing and skin-protecting cosmetic can also comprise other raw material ingredients which are allowed to be added in any cosmetic field, including but not limited to emulsifiers, emollients, humectants, thickeners and the like.
In another embodiment of the present invention, the emulsifier is added in an amount of 1-6%, preferably 2-5% by weight based on the total weight of the oil-controlling, soothing and skin-protecting cosmetic; the addition amount of the emollient is 6-25%, and the preferable addition amount is 8-20%; the addition amount of the humectant is 2-15%, and the preferable addition amount is 5-12%; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-1.0%, and the preferable addition amount is 0.05-0.8%.
In still another embodiment of the present invention, the oil-controlling, soothing and skin-protecting cosmetic according to the present invention, the emulsifier comprises any one or a combination of two or more of polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, hydrogenated lecithin, inulin lauryl carbamate, sodium bis (lauramidoglutamine) lysine, sodium surfactin.
In still another embodiment of the present invention, the oil-controlling soothing skin-care cosmetic according to the present invention, the emollient comprises any one or a combination of two or more of isononyl isononanoate, squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, macadamia oil, juglans regia oil, meadowfoam oil, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, isododecane, glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate), behenyl alcohol, shea butter, dioctyl carbonate, tocopheryl acetate.
In another embodiment of the present invention, the oil-controlling soothing skin care cosmetic according to the present invention, the moisturizer comprises any one or a combination of two or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, ethylhexyl glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and trehalose.
In still another embodiment of the present invention, the oil-controlling soothing skin care cosmetic according to the present invention, the thickener comprises any one or a combination of two or more of sodium polyacrylate, carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.
Meanwhile, different cosmetic formulations such as essence water, essence milk, essence cream and the like can be prepared by reasonably adding the raw material components, and meanwhile, the obtained cosmetics are further derived and prepared based on the basic cosmetics, which obviously belong to the protection scope of the application.
In still another embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a method for preparing the above oil-controlling soothing skin care cosmetic, comprising the step of mixing a composition as described in the above first aspect and other raw material components.
In yet another embodiment of the present invention, there is provided the use of the above-described composition and/or cosmetic for oil control, soothing and skin care.
The present invention is further illustrated by the following examples. The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, which are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, those skilled in the art can change the present invention without creating any inventive changes. Meanwhile, in the examples of the present invention, all the preparation raw materials are commercially available products well known to those skilled in the art unless otherwise specified.
Examples
A skin care composition for controlling oil and relieving skin comprises zinc hyaluronate, extract of Malva arvensis fruit and extract of Peucedanum falcatum.
Wherein the molecular weight of the zinc hyaluronate is 50 ten thousand Da.
The method for obtaining the mallow fruit extract comprises the following steps:
(1) Pulverizing dried Malva arvensis fruits, sieving with a 80-mesh sieve, placing powder of Malva arvensis fruits in a percolation cylinder, adding 5 times of 50% ethanol, soaking for 10h, collecting 15 times of percolation extract of Malva arvensis fruits at a flow rate of 8mL/min, and filtering.
(2) And (2) putting the percolate obtained in the step (1) into a rotary evaporator, vacuumizing, distilling at 60 ℃ under reduced pressure, adding glycerol with the mass being 1.5 times that of the concentrated solution when the filtrate is evaporated to leave one fifth of the filtrate, uniformly stirring, and filtering to obtain the mallow fruit extract.
The method for obtaining the peucedanum hemsleyanum extract comprises the following steps:
(1) Pulverizing dried radix Peucedani, sieving with 50 mesh sieve, soaking in 70% ethanol at 1:9 for 20min, extracting under 200W ultrasonic power for 30min, filtering, collecting filtrate, extracting the residue twice, and mixing the three filtrates.
(2) Putting the filtrate obtained in the step (1) into a rotary evaporator, vacuumizing, distilling at 60 ℃ under reduced pressure, recovering ethanol until no alcohol smell exists, adding butanediol with the mass of 2.5 times that of the radix peucedani yellow, uniformly stirring, and filtering to obtain the radix peucedani yellow extract.
Examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4 methods of preparation: mixing zinc hyaluronate, malva arvensis fruit extract and Peucedanum falcatum extract, and dissolving in purified water. The specific scheme is shown in the following table 1 and calculated by mass ratio.
TABLE 1 ingredient list of specific examples and comparative examples
Figure BDA0003791245470000071
Figure BDA0003791245470000081
EXAMPLE 4 serum
The application of the oil-control and soothing skin care composition is to prepare an essential water product containing the oil-control and soothing skin care composition, and the formula is shown in table 2.
TABLE 2 essential aquatic product formula
Figure BDA0003791245470000082
The preparation method of the essence water comprises the following steps:
s1: respectively adding the raw materials in the phase A, heating to 85 ℃, and stirring for dissolving;
s2: after complete dissolution, cooling, respectively adding the components in the phase B when the temperature is reduced to 45 ℃, and stirring, dissolving and dispersing uniformly;
s3: and when the temperature is reduced to 40 ℃, sequentially adding the phase C components, stirring, dissolving and dispersing uniformly to obtain the essence aquatic product.
The preparation method of the comparative example 5 is the same as that of the example 4, except that the comparative example 5 does not contain the oil-controlling and relaxing skin care composition, and the oil-controlling and relaxing skin care composition in the example 4 is supplemented with water.
EXAMPLE 5 essence milk
The formula of the essential milk product containing the oil-controlling and soothing skin care composition is shown in table 3.
TABLE 3 essential milk product formula
Figure BDA0003791245470000091
The preparation method of the essence milk comprises the following steps:
s1: preparation of the aqueous phase: respectively adding the raw materials in the phase A, heating to 85 ℃, and stirring for dissolving;
s2: preparation of oil phase: respectively adding the raw materials in the phase B, and heating to 80 ℃ for melting;
s3: mixing phase A with phase B, homogenizing at 3000rpm for 12min;
s4: after homogenizing, adding phase C, stirring uniformly, and cooling;
s5: adding the phase D when the temperature is reduced to 70 ℃, stirring for dissolving, and continuously reducing the temperature after the dissolution is finished;
s6: and when the temperature is reduced to 45 ℃, sequentially adding the phase E components, stirring, dissolving and dispersing uniformly to obtain the essence milk product.
EXAMPLE 6 essence cream
The formula of the essential cream product containing the oil-controlling and soothing skin care composition is shown in table 4.
TABLE 4 essence cream product formula
Figure BDA0003791245470000101
The preparation method of the essence cream comprises the following steps:
s1: preparation of the aqueous phase: respectively adding the raw materials in the phase A, heating to 85 ℃, and stirring for dissolving;
s2: preparation of an oil phase: respectively adding the raw materials in the phase B, and heating to 80 ℃ for melting;
s3: mixing phase A with phase B, homogenizing (3000 r/min) for 12min;
s4: after homogenizing, cooling, adding phase C when the temperature is reduced to 70 ℃, stirring for dissolving, and continuously cooling after dissolving;
s5: and when the temperature is reduced to 45 ℃, sequentially adding the phase D components, stirring, dissolving and dispersing uniformly to obtain the essence cream product.
Test example 1: safety test experiment
And (3) performing eye irritation test, namely safety test on the product by referring to SN/T2329-2009 cosmetic eye irritation/chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane test.
The experimental method comprises the following steps: fertilized chicken embryos within 7 days of age are adopted and incubated for 9 days in an incubator with 37.6 +/-0.5 ℃ and 50-70% of humidity.
Preparation of CAM: the egg is inspected by candling, marking the air cell locations on the shell surface, and removing the marked shell portion with forceps to expose the white egg membrane, taking care not to damage the integrity of the egg membrane. 0.5mL of 0.9% NaCl solution was added dropwise to fully wet the egg membrane, the surface liquid was gently blotted with a paper towel, and the intima was carefully removed with forceps to ensure that the vascular membrane was not damaged.
Reaction end-point method: 0.3mL of a transparent specimen was uniformly dropped or smeared on the surface of the CAM, and after 3min of the action, the specimen was washed out with a 0.9% NaCl solution, and the degree of change in each toxic effect of the CAM was observed.
End point score method (end point score ES): for experiments performed using the reaction endpoint method, the Endpoint Score (ES) should be calculated, and the results retain the last two decimal points. Score per chick embryo = sum of the extent of bleeding, clotting and vascular thawing observed per chick embryo, ES = mathematical sum of scores for 6 chick embryos. The subjects were classified for eye irritation according to ES values as shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5 determination of reaction endpoint method results
Stimulation scoring ES≤12 12<ES<16 ES≥16
Irritation classification Non/light irritability Moderate irritation High irritation/corrosion
Test results the oil-controlling soothing skin care composition was non-irritating as shown in table 6.
TABLE 6 statistical table of irritation test results
Figure BDA0003791245470000111
Test example 2: experiment for inhibiting 5 alpha-reductase activity in vitro
Testosterone is converted into Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) by 5 alpha-reductase in the presence of NADPH, and the expression of DHT influences the proliferation and differentiation of sebaceous gland cells. Therefore, the change of the testosterone content of the substrate in a 5 alpha-reductase activity reaction system is measured by adopting an ultra-performance liquid tandem mass spectrometry system (UPLC-MS), and the inhibition effect of the substance to be detected on the 5 alpha-reductase can be evaluated.
The inhibition rate is calculated according to the formula: i (%) = [ (B-Q) - (B-R) ]/(B-Q) × 100.B represents the testosterone content of a blank control group, Q represents the testosterone content of a reaction group without the inhibitor, and R represents the testosterone content of a reaction group with the inhibitor to be tested.
The original concentrations of the components in the enzyme reaction system are respectively as follows: buffer [ Tris-HCl, pH 7.4]; NADPH concentration (10 mmol/L, sigma 93205); the concentration of 5 alpha-reductase is 10mg/mL; testosterone is 4 mug/mL; the dutasteride concentration is 0.5mg/mL.
TABLE 7 liquid-adding meter for reaction system
Figure BDA0003791245470000121
Represents the corresponding substance is not added
The test results are shown in fig. 1, and example 1, example 2, example 3, comparative example 1, comparative example 2, comparative example 3 and comparative example 4 all had significant in vitro inhibition of 5 α -reductase activity, with example 1 having an inhibition rate of 69.44%, example 2 having an inhibition rate of 87.75%, example 3 having an inhibition rate of 78.03%, comparative example 1 having an inhibition rate of 44.16%, comparative example 2 having an inhibition rate of 52.50%, comparative example 3 having an inhibition rate of 54.68%, and comparative example 4 having an inhibition rate of 5.22%. The most obvious inhibition effect of the example 2 shows that the oil-control soothing skin care composition has the obvious function of inhibiting the activity of 5 alpha-reductase, thereby achieving the oil-control effect.
Test example 3: in vitro inhibition of IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha, COX2 and PGE2 factors
LPS (bacterial lipopolysaccharide) is adopted to induce mouse macrophage Raw264.7, and the expression level of IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha, COX2 and PGE2 is detected by an ELISA method, so as to evaluate the capability of the test object to inhibit the expression of the related cell pathway factor. See table 8 test protocol.
TABLE 8 test protocol
Figure BDA0003791245470000131
The test results are shown in tables 9 to 12.
TABLE 9 summary of IL-1. Alpha. Content results
Figure BDA0003791245470000132
Figure BDA0003791245470000141
( Note: # indicates p <0.01 compared to placebo; * Indicates p <0.01 compared to negative control; * Indicates that 0.01-straw-over-p-straw-over-0.05 was used as compared with the negative control. )
As can be seen from Table 9, example 1,2,3 and comparative example 1,2,3,4 both significantly inhibit the activity of IL-1 alpha, and the inhibition effect of example 2 is most significant, but the inhibition rate of comparative example 1,2,3,4 is lower than that of example 1,2,3, and especially comparative example 1 is far lower than that of example 2. The oil-controlling, relieving and skin-care composition can obviously inhibit the activity of IL-1 alpha.
TABLE 10 summary of TNF-alpha content results
Figure BDA0003791245470000142
( Note: # indicates p <0.01 compared to placebo; * Indicates p <0.01 compared to negative control; * It was shown that 0.01-P-s-0.05 were constructed as compared with negative controls. )
As can be seen from Table 10, example 1,2,3 and comparative example 1,2,3,4 both significantly inhibited the activity of TNF- α, but comparative example 1,2,3,4 both inhibited less than example 1,2,3, especially comparative example 1 was much less than the examples. The oil-controlling, relieving and skin-care composition can obviously inhibit the activity of TNF-alpha.
TABLE 11 summary of PGE2 content results
Figure BDA0003791245470000143
Figure BDA0003791245470000151
( Note: # indicates p <0.01 compared to placebo; * Indicates p <0.01 compared to negative control; * It was shown that 0.01-P-s-0.05 were constructed as compared with negative controls. )
As can be seen from Table 11, example 1,2,3 and comparative example 1,2,3,4 both significantly inhibited PGE2 activity, and the inhibition effect of example 2 was the most significant, but comparative example 1,2,3,4 had an inhibition rate lower than that of example 1,2,3, and particularly comparative example 1 was much lower than that of each example. The oil-controlling, relieving and skin-care composition can obviously inhibit the activity of PGE 2.
TABLE 12 summary of COX2 content results
Figure BDA0003791245470000152
( Note: # indicates p <0.01 compared to placebo; * Indicates p <0.01 compared to negative control; * Indicates that 0.01-straw-over-p-straw-over-0.05 was used as compared with the negative control. )
As can be seen from table 12, example 1,2,3 and comparative examples 1,2 and 3 both significantly inhibited the activity of COX2, with the most significant inhibition effect of example 2, but comparative example 4 had no significant inhibition ability, and comparative examples 1,2 and 3 were much lower than the respective examples. The oil-controlling, soothing and skin-care composition can obviously inhibit the activity of COX 2.
The results show that the oil-controlling, relieving and skin-protecting composition can obviously inhibit the activities of IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha, COX2 and PGE2 factors and has certain oil-controlling and relieving effects.
Test example 4: example 4 in vitro oil control experiment
In the experiment, the oil control effect of the tested substance is evaluated by detecting the content of lipid droplets of the sample acting on the sebaceous gland cells SZ 95.
According to the test scheme in Table 13, when the plating rate of the cells in the 24-well plate reaches 40% -50%, the drug is administered in groups, each well is loaded with 1mL, and each group is provided with 3 multiple wells. After completion of the administration, the 24-well plates were placed in an incubator (37 ℃ C., 5% CO2) and cultured for 24 hours.
Dyeing with oil red O: the old solution was aspirated, cells were washed 1 time with PBS, 500. Mu.L of oil red O working solution (1. Mu.g/mL) was added to each well, stained in the dark for 15min (incubation in incubator at 37 ℃) and washed 2 times with PBS.
And evaluating the oil control capability according to the OD value of the dyeing result of the fat drop synthetic oil red O. The lower the OD value, the less the oil content is secreted, and the stronger the oil control capability is.
Inhibition calculation formula = (NC group OD value-sample OD value)/NC group OD value 100%
Table 13 test protocol design
Figure BDA0003791245470000161
As shown in fig. 2, the OD value of example 4 is significantly lower than that of the negative control group (NC group), the inhibition rate is 12.63%, and the oil-controlling effect is significant, thus indicating that the oil-controlling soothing skin care composition product has a certain oil-controlling capability.
Test example 5: example 4 Effect in oil control on human skin
The essential water product of example 4 was evaluated for oil control on human skin.
The method refers to: T/ZHCA 002-2018, namely, a cosmetic oil control efficacy test method.
Selecting 30 healthy female/male volunteers 18-50 years old with skin oil content Sebum of 120 (μ g/cm) 2 )。
Test item
Figure BDA0003791245470000171
Wherein T0 means that the subject does not use the sample, T2 means that the subject uses the sample for 2 hours in a single use, T4 means that the subject uses the sample for 4 hours in a single use, and T8 means that the subject uses the sample for 8 hours in a single use.
Comparative example 5 was selected for the blank control group.
The detection method comprises the following steps:
1) The sample areas and blank areas are randomly distributed on the left and right sides of the forehead to ensure that all sample areas and blank area positions are statistically balanced;
2) Coating 0.5g of a test sample on a measurement area without cleaning, and coating a control sample on a blank area;
3) The sample and blank areas were measured according to a skin oil tester, and each area was measured 3 times in parallel. Measuring initial values of the test areas (before using the sample), and then measuring the skin oil content of the sample areas and the blank areas after using the samples for 2h, 4h and 8 h;
4) The test of the same subject must be done by the same measuring person using the same instrument;
adverse reactions were noted during the use of the samples, as in the case of volunteer skin, the test should be terminated immediately and the volunteer treated appropriately.
The oil inhibition rate calculation formula is as follows: (blank increment-sample increment)/blank increment-100%
And (3) testing results:
the test results are shown in fig. 3 and 4, and the sample skin oil gain was significantly improved compared to the blank area of the control sample after single use of the sample for 2 hours, 4 hours, and 8 hours. The inhibition ratio was 21.46% after two hours using the sample, 22.55% after 4 hours using the sample, and 18.42% after 8 hours using the sample,
the results show that: the essential aquatic product of example 4 can improve skin oil secretion, has an oil control effect for 8 hours, and shows that the essential aquatic product containing the oil control soothing skin care composition has a remarkable oil control effect.
Test example 6: example 4 Effect in soothing on human skin
The prepared essence water products of example 4 were subjected to a human skin efficacy test, and 30 human volunteers (skin condition: skin sensitive (lactic acid stabbing positive)) aged 18 to 40 were sought to be subjected to a product test.
Detection time: trial products for 14 days and 28 days;
the detection device comprises: VISIA skin detector (Canfield, USA).
The test collects pictures of standard light 1, standard light 2 and cross polarized light 3 light sources on the left, middle and right sides of the face of a subject, and derives red area pictures under the cross polarized light. And performing image analysis on the red region picture to obtain a quantitative index red region analysis a value for evaluating the improvement condition of the red and sensitive facial skin.
And (3) testing results:
a picture of the change in facial red region before and after use of the sample by 2 subjects as in example 5.
Table 14-1 red region analysis a values descriptive statistics (n = 30)
Figure BDA0003791245470000181
Table 14-2 red zone analysis a values statistical analysis results (n = 30)
Figure BDA0003791245470000182
And (4) counting and analyzing results: "-": the difference has no statistical significance (P is more than or equal to 0.05); "*": the difference has statistical significance (P is more than or equal to 0.01 and less than 0.05); "**": the difference has statistical significance (P is more than or equal to 0.001 and less than 0.01); "***": the difference was statistically significant (P < 0.001).
The red panel analysis a x value test results show a significant decrease in red panel analysis a x value (0.01 ≦ P < 0.05) after 4 weeks of use of the test sample compared to before use, indicating that products containing the oil-controlling soothing skin care composition have soothing efficacy.
The results show that: the product containing the oil-controlling and skin-soothing skin care composition can achieve the effects of controlling oil and soothing skin, and has remarkable effect when being used in skin care products.
It should be noted that the above examples are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention and not to limit them. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the examples given, those skilled in the art can modify the technical solution of the present invention as needed or equivalent substitutions without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. The oil-controlling, relieving and skin-caring composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by mass:
0.1-1.0 part of zinc hyaluronate, 1-20 parts of mallow fruit extract and 1-20 parts of peucedanum praeruptorum dunn extract.
2. The composition of claim 1 wherein the zinc hyaluronate has a molecular weight of 40 to 80 million Da, preferably 50 to 70 million Da.
3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the mallow fruit extract is prepared by the method comprising:
s1, crushing and sieving mallow fruits, and obtaining a mallow fruit percolate by using ethanol as a solvent and adopting a percolation method;
and S2, distilling and concentrating the mallow fruit percolate obtained in the step S1, and then adding glycerol into the mallow fruit percolate to obtain the mallow fruit percolate.
4. The composition of claim 3,
in the step S1, a 60-100 mesh sieve is selected in the sieving treatment, and an 80 mesh sieve is preferably selected;
the specific method for obtaining the mallow fruit percolate by using ethanol as a solvent and adopting a percolation method comprises the following steps:
placing the crushed and sieved mallow fruit powder into a percolation barrel, adding 3-8 times (preferably 5 times) of 30-70% (preferably 50%) ethanol for soaking for 6-12 h, collecting 10-20 times (preferably 15 times) of percolation extract of the mallow fruit powder at the flow rate of 7-10mL/min, and filtering to obtain filtrate;
in the step S2, the distillation and concentration are specifically carried out by adopting reduced pressure distillation treatment at 55-65 ℃, adding 1-1.5 times of glycerol of the residual concentrated solution when the filtrate is evaporated until the residual amount is 1/6-1/3 (preferably 1/5) of the original filtrate, stirring uniformly and filtering to obtain the product.
5. The composition of claim 3, wherein the Peucedanum falcatum extract is prepared by the following method:
s1, crushing and sieving peucedanum praeruptorum dunn, soaking the crushed peucedanum praeruptorum dunn in ethanol for ultrasonic extraction, filtering, collecting filtrate, repeatedly extracting filter residues for 2-3 times, and combining the obtained filtrate;
s2, carrying out reduced pressure concentration on the filtrate obtained in the step S1, recovering ethanol until no alcohol smell exists, adding butanediol, uniformly stirring, and filtering to obtain the product.
6. The composition of claim 5,
in the step S1, a 30-60-mesh sieve is selected for sieving treatment, and a 50-mesh sieve is preferably selected for sieving;
the ethanol is 60-85% ethanol, the material-liquid ratio is 1:8-1, and the soaking time is 10-30min (preferably 20 min); the ultrasonic power is 100-300W (preferably 200W) in the ultrasonic extraction process, and the ultrasonic treatment time is 30-40min;
in the step S2, the reduced pressure concentration is specifically to perform reduced pressure distillation treatment at 50-60 ℃, recover ethanol until no alcohol smell exists to obtain the radix peucedani concentrate, add butanediol with the mass of 2-2.5 times of the weight of the radix peucedani concentrate, stir uniformly and filter to obtain the radix peucedani concentrate.
7. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 for the preparation of a cosmetic for oil control, soothing and skin care.
8. A cosmetic for oil control, soothing and skin care, comprising the composition of claims 1-6;
preferably, the oil-controlling and relieving skin care composition is added in an amount of 0.5-40%, preferably 2-25%, based on the total mass of the oil-controlling and relieving skin care cosmetic;
preferably, the oil-controlling, relieving and skin-protecting cosmetic also comprises other raw material components which are allowed to be added in any cosmetic field, and further comprises an emulsifier, an emollient, a humectant and a thickener;
further preferably, the addition amount of the emulsifier is 1-6% and the preferred addition amount is 2-5% based on the total mass of the oil-control, soothing and skin-care cosmetic; the addition amount of the emollient is 6-25%, and the preferable addition amount is 8-20%; the addition amount of the humectant is 2-15%, and the preferable addition amount is 5-12%; the addition amount of the thickener is 0.02-1.0%, and the preferable addition amount is 0.05-0.8%.
9. A method of making a cosmetic composition for controlling oil, soothing and caring skin as claimed in claim 8, wherein said method comprises the step of mixing the raw material components.
10. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 and/or a cosmetic according to claim 8 for oil-controlling, soothing and skin-protecting.
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