CN115177566A

CN115177566A - Synergistic hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester anti-aging essence and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN115177566A
Application number: CN202210913957.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 刘显琴; 侯如标; 张燎原; 刘倩
Original assignee: Hangzhou Shucai Network Technology Co ltd
Current assignee: Hangzhou Shucai Network Technology Co ltd
Priority date: 2022-07-28
Filing date: 2022-07-28
Publication date: 2022-10-14

Abstract

The invention discloses an anti-aging essence of synergistic hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester and a preparation method thereof, wherein the anti-aging essence comprises grease, a surfactant, an additive, a benefit agent and water, and the anti-aging essence of synergistic hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight: grease: 1% -20%, surfactant: 0.1-5%, additive: 0.1-5%, benefit agent: 1-20% and the balance of water. According to the invention, three active ingredients with different cell-level anti-aging effects (Mirabilis jalapa extract, andrographis paniculata leaf extract and Ligustrum lucidum ait extract) and hydroxy pinacoline retinoic acid ester are built, compounded, synergized and applied to the product, so that the addition amount of hydroxy pinacoline retinoic acid ester and the compounding and composing synergy mode are reduced, and the efficient anti-aging performance is exerted.

Description

Synergistic hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester anti-aging essence and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to an anti-aging essence of synergistic hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester and a preparation method thereof.

Background

People begin to age gradually along with the influence of factors such as age, living environment and the like, the skin has phenomena of darkness, relaxation, inelasticity, wrinkles and the like when the skin is aged, most of the reasons are that the dermis layer of the skin is damaged, and a plurality of factors exist for damaging the dermis layer, most of the factors are caused by the reduction of the activity of fibroblasts for generating collagen and the increase of the quantity of matrix metalloproteinase, the requirement of consumers on the efficacy of cosmetics is continuously increased, particularly, the anti-aging components are most popular, most of the anti-aging components with higher heat in the market are retinol and derivatives thereof, and the anti-aging components have the advantages of being capable of permeating into the skin, promoting the synthesis of collagen, repairing cells and recovering the elasticity of the skin, and effectively reducing the skin wrinkles.

The disadvantage is that retinoids and derivatives thereof need to be converted into active ingredients such as aldehyde and tretinoin through in vivo metabolism to be combined with related receptors to generate effect, and the retinoids and derivatives thereof need to be converted for the second time to become the result exerted by the tretinoin, and the activity is reduced in the process, and the effect is very weak; the high-concentration added product brings high risk of stimulating the skin, in addition, the stability is poor, the product is sensitive to light, heavy metal, oxygen and the like, and the storage environment has strict requirements, so the invention relates to a core component hydroxy pinatone retinoic acid ester which directly attacks fibroblasts with reduced activity, one of the primordial characteristics of endogenous aging, and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP-1) with increased quantity, and is most beneficial for improving the activity of the fibroblasts.

Disclosure of Invention

The technical problem to be solved by the invention is to overcome the existing defects, and provide the synergistic hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester anti-aging essence and the preparation method thereof, which can effectively solve the problems in the background art, and the addition amount of hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester and the synergistic mode of the compound formula are reduced to exert high-efficiency anti-aging performance by building three active ingredients with different cell-level anti-aging effects of the formula (mirabilis jalapa extract, lotus leaf extract and glossy privet seed extract) and cooperatively compounding the active ingredients with hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester for synergism and applying the active ingredients to products.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides the following technical scheme: the anti-aging essence with the synergistic hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester comprises grease, a surfactant, an additive, a benefit agent and water, and comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight: grease: 1% -20%, surfactant: 0.1-5%, additive: 0.1-5%, benefit agent: 1-20% of water and the balance of water;

the grease comprises one or two of jojoba seed oil, caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride, squalane and European hazel seed oil;

the grease comprises the following components in percentage by weight: the weight percentage of the jojoba seed oil is 2-20%, the weight percentage of the caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride is 2-20%, the weight percentage of the squalane is 2-20%, and the weight percentage of the European hazel nut oil is 2-20%

The preparation method of the synergistic hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester anti-aging essence comprises the following steps:

step one, preparing raw materials: preparing a certain amount of grease, surfactant, additive, benefit agent and water;

step two, partially mixing, stirring and heating: premixing and stirring oil and fat uniformly, adding the oil and fat into a first container, heating to 75 ℃ for later use, premixing surfactant, additive and the balance of water uniformly, adding the mixture into a second container, heating to 75 ℃, and stirring uniformly for later use;

step three, mixing, stirring and cooling: and (3) adding the material in the first container into the second container, homogenizing and stirring uniformly, cooling to 40 ℃, adding the beneficial agent, and stirring uniformly to obtain the anti-aging essence.

Preferably, the surfactant comprises one or two of polysorbate-20, lecithin and polyglycerol-10 laurate, and the ratio of the components in the surfactant is as follows: the weight percentage of the polysorbate-20 is 0.2-5%, the weight percentage of lecithin is 0.1-5%, and the weight percentage of polyglycerol-10 laurate is 0.2-5%.

Preferably, the additive comprises one or a combination of more than two of dehydroxanthan gum, cetyl alcohol, sodium acrylate copolymer, disodium EDTA, ethylhexyl glycerol, caprylyl hydroximic acid and glycerol, wherein the ratio of each component in the additive is as follows: the weight percentage of the hydrogen xanthan gum is 0.2-5%, the weight percentage of the cetyl alcohol is 0.2-5%, the weight percentage of the acrylic acid (ester) copolymer sodium is 0.2-5%, the weight percentage of the EDTA disodium is 0.005-5%, the weight percentage of the ethylhexyl glycerin is 0.02-5%, the weight percentage of the caprylyl hydroximic acid is 0.02-5%, and the weight percentage of the glycerin is 1-10%.

Preferably, the beneficial agent comprises one or more of hydroxyppinacolone retinoic acid ester, a cell breathing composition (mirabilis jalapa extract, andrographis paniculata leaf extract, privet seed extract), a citrus fruit extract, an astragalus membranaceus root extract, a rosemary leaf extract, a jambu extract, a hydrolyzed red algae extract and rhamnose, and the beneficial agent comprises the following components in percentage by weight: the weight percentage of the hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester is 2-10%, the weight percentage of the formula (mirabilis jalapa extract, andrographis paniculata leaf extract and privet seed extract) is 2-15%, the weight percentage of the citrus fruit extract is 0.5-10%, the weight percentage of the astragalus membranaceus root extract is 1-15%, the weight percentage of the rosemary leaf extract is 2-15%, the weight percentage of the jambu extract is 1-10%, the weight percentage of the hydrolyzed red algae extract is 0.1-10%, and the weight percentage of rhamnose is 0.5-10%.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

according to the invention, three active ingredients with different cell-level anti-aging effects (Mirabilis jalapa extract, andrographis paniculata leaf extract and Ligustrum lucidum ait extract) and hydroxy pinacoline retinoic acid ester are built, compounded, synergized and applied to the product, so that the addition amount of hydroxy pinacoline retinoic acid ester and the compounding and composing synergy mode are reduced, and the efficient anti-aging performance is exerted.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a composition diagram of the anti-aging essence containing hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a composition diagram of an alternative fat in accordance with the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a composition diagram of an alternative surfactant according to the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a composition diagram of an alternative substance for the additive of the present invention;

fig. 5 is a diagram of an alternative composition of beneficial agents in the present invention.

Detailed Description

In order to make the technical means, the creation characteristics, the achievement purposes and the effects of the invention easy to understand, the invention is further described with the specific embodiments.

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be obtained by a person skilled in the art without making any creative effort based on the embodiments in the present invention, belong to the protection scope of the present invention.

Example 1

The anti-aging essence with the synergistic hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester comprises grease, a surfactant, an additive, a benefit agent and water, and comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight: grease: 1% -20%, surfactant: 0.1-5%, additive: 0.1-5%, benefit agent: 1-20 percent of water, and the balance of water;

the grease comprises one or two of jojoba seed oil, caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride, squalane and hazel nut oil;

the grease comprises the following components in percentage by weight: the weight percentage of the jojoba seed oil is 2-20%, the weight percentage of the caprylic acid/capric acid/succinic acid triglyceride is 2-20%, the weight percentage of the squalane is 2-20%, and the weight percentage of the European hazelnut seed oil is 2-20%

step one, preparing raw materials: preparing a certain amount of grease, a surfactant, an additive, a benefit agent and water;

Further, the surfactant comprises one or two of polysorbate-20, lecithin and polyglycerol-10 laurate, and the ratio of the components in the surfactant is as follows: the weight percentage of the polysorbate-20 is 0.2-5%, the weight percentage of lecithin is 0.1-5%, and the weight percentage of polyglycerol-10 laurate is 0.2-5%.

Further, the additive comprises one or a combination of more than two of dehydroxanthan gum, cetyl alcohol, sodium acrylate copolymer, disodium EDTA, ethylhexyl glycerol, caprylyl hydroximic acid and glycerol, wherein the additive comprises the following components in percentage by weight: the weight percentage of the hydrogen xanthan gum is 0.2-5%, the weight percentage of the cetyl alcohol is 0.2-5%, the weight percentage of the acrylic acid (ester) copolymer sodium is 0.2-5%, the weight percentage of the EDTA disodium is 0.005-5%, the weight percentage of the ethylhexyl glycerin is 0.02-5%, the weight percentage of the caprylyl hydroximic acid is 0.02-5%, and the weight percentage of the glycerin is 1-10%.

Further, the beneficial agent comprises one or a combination of more than two of hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester, a cell breathing composition (mirabilis jalapa extract, andrographis paniculata leaf extract, privet seed extract), a citrus fruit extract, an astragalus membranaceus root extract, a rosemary leaf extract, a jambu extract, a hydrolyzed red algae extract and rhamnose, wherein the beneficial agent comprises the following components in percentage by weight: the weight percentage of the hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester is 2-10%, the weight percentage of the formula (mirabilis jalapa extract, andrographis paniculata leaf extract and privet seed extract) is 2-15%, the weight percentage of the citrus fruit extract is 0.5-10%, the weight percentage of the astragalus membranaceus root extract is 1-15%, the weight percentage of the rosemary leaf extract is 2-15%, the weight percentage of the jambu extract is 1-10%, the weight percentage of the hydrolyzed red algae extract is 0.1-10%, and the weight percentage of rhamnose is 0.5-10%.

Test examples

Sensitive muscle crowd patch test, efficacy test and stability test are carried out on the synergistic hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester anti-aging essence prepared by the invention:

the sensitive muscle patch test is to screen 33 sensitive muscle subjects through a sensitive muscle screening questionnaire and a lactic acid stabbing pain questionnaire, and finally 30 subjects complete the test, wherein 4 males and 28 females are 28, and the age is 19-50 years old, a patch tester added with a test object and a control patch tester are pasted on the forearm curved side of the sensitive muscle subjects, the patches are evenly pasted on the skin by lightly pressing with palms for 24 hours, and the skin reaction and the skin closed patch test results are observed 30min after the test object patch tester is removed (after the indentation disappears), 24 hours and 48 hours respectively.

The efficacy test is divided into two different detection methods of in vitro test and human body efficacy test, the in vitro test is mainly used for measuring the type I collagen content of in vitro fibroblasts, the adopted in vitro cell test can carry out detection on proliferation (CCK-8 staining detection), intracellular protein (ELISA method test), extracellular matrix protein (immunofluorescence detection) _ expression quantity of photoaged fibroblasts and keratinocytes, and the product of the invention is used as a UVA-induced fibroblast detection method: taking logarithmic growth fibroblasts, inoculating the fibroblasts into a 96-well plate according to a certain density, incubating overnight at 37 ℃ under the condition of 5% carbon dioxide, replacing PBS buffer solution for a culture medium, adding 200 mu L of test substances with different concentrations into each hole after UVA irradiation for 20 minutes, continuing to culture for 24 hours, collecting supernatant, carrying out detection on MMP-1 protein by an ELISA method, adding 100 mu LCCK-8 dye solution into the cell plate, incubating for 1 hour, and detecting the change of absorbance value under 450.

The human body efficacy test is to screen 35 sensitive muscle subjects with the average age of 46.5 years through sensitive muscle test and eye crow's feet test, and finally 33 subjects complete the test, use the test for 28 days, wipe off water vapor after cleaning the face, take a proper amount of the product to be uniformly applied to the face, use the product for 14 days and 28 days to observe skin reaction and test results once in the morning and evening each day, and test the wrinkle reducing effect of the product on the skin through the change of key indexes with different dimensions.

The stability tests comprise high-temperature, low-temperature and cold-heat cycle tests, namely the application and preparation of the hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester synergistic anti-aging essence are respectively placed at 45 ℃, 25 ℃ and 4 ℃ for 8 weeks, whether abnormal phenomena such as discoloration, precipitation and the like appear in the appearance of the product is regularly observed, and whether the abnormal phenomena appear in the appearance of the product is observed after the product is subjected to cold-heat cycle for 3 times at the cold-heat cycle temperature of-18 ℃/25 ℃.

Through the patch test of sensitive skin groups of the hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester synergistic anti-aging essence product, the result grading is all negative reactions, and the result grading shows that the hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester synergistic anti-aging essence has extremely low irritation, no adverse reaction exists in sensitive skin groups participating in the test, the irritation is extremely low, and no adverse reaction exists in the sensitive skin groups participating in the test.

Through a UVA induction fibroblast detection method of the hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester synergistic anti-aging essence liquid product, the expression level of MMP-1 is reduced by 37.55%, 82.55% and 71.68% under the condition that a sample G + L + M, G + L + M + D, D is diluted by 16 times in an equal proportion of compound concentration, and significant differences exist; the expression quantity of the type I collagen is increased, the increment of the G + L + M + D group is the most, the effect is better than that of a single product under the condition of equal-ratio dilution, and the anti-aging and synergistic performance of the product is further proved.

The human body efficacy test result of the hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester synergistic anti-aging essence product provided by the invention is that 14 days and 28 days after the product is used, the skin elasticity is remarkably improved, the firmness is remarkably improved, the number of wrinkles is remarkably reduced, a formula system is stable, the heat resistance is 45 ℃, the cold resistance is-18 ℃, and the cold-heat circulation is stable and has no abnormity.

Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. The anti-aging essence with the synergistic hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester comprises grease, a surfactant, an additive, a benefit agent and water, and is characterized in that the anti-aging essence with the synergistic hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight: grease: 1% -20%, surfactant: 0.1-5%, additive: 0.1-5%, benefit agent: 1-20% of water and the balance of water;

step three, mixing, stirring and cooling: and (3) adding the materials in the first container into the second container, homogenizing and stirring uniformly, cooling to 40 ℃, adding the benefit agent, and stirring uniformly to obtain the anti-aging essence.

2. The essence of claim 1, wherein the surfactant comprises one or a combination of two of polysorbate-20, lecithin and polyglycerol-10 laurate, and the surfactant comprises the following components in percentage by weight: the weight percentage of the polysorbate-20 is 0.2-5%, the weight percentage of lecithin is 0.1-5%, and the weight percentage of polyglycerol-10 laurate is 0.2-5%.

3. The essence of claim 1, wherein the additive comprises one or more of dehydroxanthan gum, cetyl alcohol, sodium acrylate copolymer, disodium EDTA, ethylhexyl glycerol, caprylyl hydroximic acid, and glycerol, and the additive comprises the following components: the weight percentage of the hydrogen xanthan gum is 0.2-5%, the weight percentage of the cetyl alcohol is 0.2-5%, the weight percentage of the acrylic acid (ester) copolymer sodium is 0.2-5%, the weight percentage of the EDTA disodium is 0.005-5%, the weight percentage of the ethylhexyl glycerin is 0.02-5%, the weight percentage of the caprylyl hydroximic acid is 0.02-5%, and the weight percentage of the glycerin is 1-10%.

4. The essence of claim 1, wherein the beneficial agent comprises one or a combination of two or more of hydroxyppinacolone retinoic acid ester, a cellular respiratory composition (mirabilis jalapa extract, andrographis paniculata leaf extract, ligustrum lucidum seed extract), citrus fruit extract, astragalus membranaceus root extract, rosemary leaf extract, jambu extract, hydrolyzed red algae extract, and rhamnose, and the beneficial agent comprises the following components in parts by weight: the weight percentage of the hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester is 2-10%, the weight percentage of the formula (mirabilis jalapa extract, andrographis paniculata leaf extract and privet seed extract) is 2-15%, the weight percentage of the citrus fruit extract is 0.5-10%, the weight percentage of the astragalus membranaceus root extract is 1-15%, the weight percentage of the rosemary leaf extract is 2-15%, the weight percentage of the jambu extract is 1-10%, the weight percentage of the hydrolyzed red algae extract is 0.1-10%, and the weight percentage of rhamnose is 0.5-10%.