CN114948820A - 具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物及其应用、精华乳 - Google Patents
具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物及其应用、精华乳 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物,基于100重量份的组合物,该组合物包含:20‑30重量份的积雪草(CENTELLA ASIATICA)提取物;20‑30重量份的虎杖(POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM)根提取物;10‑20重量份的黄芩(SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS)根提取物;10‑20重量份的茶(CAMELLIA SINENSIS)叶提取物;5‑10重量份的光果甘草(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)根提取物;5‑10重量份的母菊(CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA)花提取物;5‑10重量份的迷迭香(ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS)叶提取物。本发明还涉及该组合物作为添加剂在护肤品和化妆品中的应用。本发明还涉及包含该组合物的精华乳。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品技术领域,特别是涉及一种具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物、该组合物的应用,以及含有该组合物的精华乳。
背景技术
敏感肌肤一般有以下的皮肤特征:1、看上去皮肤较薄,容易过敏,脸上的红血丝明显;2、皮肤容易泛红,一般温度变化,过冷或过热,皮肤都容易泛红、发热;3、容易受坏境因素、季节变化及面部保养品刺激,通常归咎于遗传因素,但更多的是由于使用了激素类的化妆品导致成为敏感肌肤,并可能伴有全身的皮肤敏感。
造成敏感肌肤的主要成因包括:1、皮肤屏障受损,经皮失水量增加,导致角质层含水量低,外界的诱因通过破坏皮肤的屏障功能,外来刺激因子更容易进到皮肤,引起皮肤的过敏性反应;2、皮肤的神经纤维在受到外界刺激时,神经反应性高则容易发生过敏性反应,从而易于产生泛红,发热,瘙痒、刺痛,红疹等不适现象的产生;3、炎症反应,由于敏感皮肤存在屏障功能损伤或神经功能异常的特点,与正常皮肤相比更难于抵御外界刺激物与过敏原的侵袭,容易发生一系列刺激或过敏导致的皮肤炎症反应,从而进一步损害皮肤屏障结构与神经末梢,导致恶性循环;4、由于遗传因素造成肌肤及其敏感的敏感肌肤。
因此需要开发适用于敏感肌肤使用的护肤品和化妆品。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种具有降低致敏源刺激,抑制组胺释放和透明质酸酶活性,修复敏感肌肤受损屏障功能的具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物。本发明还提供一种含有该组合物的精华乳,该精华乳能对敏感性肌肤进行舒缓修复,同时该精华乳具有优异的稳定性、优异的保湿润肤性能、温和低刺激性、以及优异的肌肤修复功效。
第一方面,本发明提供的一种具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物,基于100重量份的所述组合物,所述组合物包含:
20-30重量份的积雪草(CENTELLA ASIATICA)提取物;
20-30重量份的虎杖(POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM)根提取物;
10-20重量份的黄芩(SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS)根提取物;
10-20重量份的茶(CAMELLIA SINENSIS)叶提取物;
5-10重量份的光果甘草(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)根提取物;
5-10重量份的母菊(CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA)花提取物;
5-10重量份的迷迭香(ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS)叶提取物。
所述积雪草(CENTELLA ASIATICA)提取物在中国《已使用化妆品原料名称目录(2021年版)》中序号为03169,所述虎杖(POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM)根提取物在中国《已使用化妆品原料名称目录(2021版)》中序号为02961,所述积雪草(CENTELLA ASIATICA)提取物和所述虎杖(POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM)根提取物能产生协同作用,可以改善毛细血管的通透性和皮肤厚度,从而舒缓敏感肌肤,减少刺激、发红和红斑等敏感症状,达到优异的舒缓抗敏效果。
黄芩(SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS)根提取物在中国《已使用化妆品原料名称目录(2021版)》中序号为03076,所述茶(CAMELLIA SINENSIS)叶提取物在中国《已使用化妆品原料名称目录(2021版)》中序号为01605。所述黄芩(SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS)根提取物和所述茶(CAMELLIA SINENSIS)叶提取物能产生协同作用,通过抑制炎症因子的产生从而发挥显著的抗炎作用,从而舒缓皮肤受到外界刺激后表现出的敏感症状,具有抗炎舒缓的功效。
所述光果甘草(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)根提取物在中国《已使用化妆品原料名称目录(2021版)》中序号为02616,可以预防紫外线和细菌对皮肤的伤害,同时具有防晒、抗氧化、抑菌的功效,从而达到提高皮肤抵御外界刺激的能力,增强皮肤屏障功能,进而表现为较好的抗敏作用。
所述母菊(CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA)花提取物在中国《已使用化妆品原料名称目录(2021版)》中序号为04739,所述迷迭香(ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS)叶提取物在中国《已使用化妆品原料名称目录(2021版)》中序号为04688。所述母菊(CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA)花提取物和所述迷迭香(ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS)叶提取物能产生协同作用,可以通过清除自由基和抑制脂质过氧化发挥较强的抗氧化功效,还具有抗皱、抗炎、抗糖化等有益效果。
上述组合物基于组分的复配能实现较长时间和较宽范围内的储存稳定性,同时其具有稳定并且长效的抗敏舒缓功效。
在一实施例中,所述组合物的制备方法包括以下步骤:
步骤一、称取积雪草(CENTELLA ASIATICA)、虎杖(POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM)根、黄芩(SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS)根、茶(CAMELLIA SINENSIS)叶、光果甘草(GLYCYRRHIZAGLABRA)根、母菊(CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA)花和迷迭香(ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS)叶,然后混合进行破碎处理,得到颗粒形态(颗粒的粒径不大于1.8mm)的混合物;
步骤三、将提取液用孔径0.45μm的滤膜过滤后,减压浓缩回收乙醇,再经冷冻干燥得到所述组合物。
第二方面,上述具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物作为添加剂在护肤品和化妆品中的应用。
第三方面,本发明提供一种包含上述具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物的精华乳。基于100重量份的精华乳,所述精华乳包含:
2-5重量份的辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯;
0.5-2重量份的白池花(LIMNANTHES ALBA)籽油;
0.1-1重量份的生育酚乙酸酯;
0.2-1重量份的甘油硬脂酸酯柠檬酸酯;
0.1-1重量份的聚甘油-3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯;
0.2-0.6重量份的增稠剂;
0.1-1重量份的表面活性剂;
0.1-3重量份的具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物;
0.5-1重量份的稳定剂;
2-5重量份的1,3-丙二醇;
2-5重量份的甘油;
0.1-1重量份的1,2-己二醇;
1-5重量份的丁二醇;
1-5重量份的丙二醇;
0.5-2重量份的海藻糖;
2-5重量份的甜菜碱;
0.01-0.1重量份的燕麦(AVENA SATIVA)β-葡聚糖;
0.1-0.2重量份的尿囊素;
0.1-1重量份的泛醇;
0.01-0.1重量份的透明质酸钠;
0.01-0.1重量份的铁皮石斛提取物;
0.1-1重量份的甘草酸二钾;
0.1-1重量份的对羟基苯乙酮;
0.01-0.05重量份的香精;
余量为水。
其中,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、白池花(LIMNANTHES ALBA)籽油、生育酚乙酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯柠檬酸酯、聚甘油-3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯的组合为油相的油性溶剂,该组合适用于制备水包油型的精华乳,该组合在较高的温度下具有优异的稳定且具有良好的冻融稳定性,该组合本身稳定性优异并且与精华乳中其它组分具有极高的兼容性。该组合能够快速在皮肤表面形成天然的保护屏障,保护皮肤不受外界物质侵害,同时具有极佳的渗透力,能调整肌肤的水油平衡,避免肌肤粗糙、暗沉,使肌肤恢复原本的柔嫩触感。该组合对皮肤很温和,同时该组合赋予了精华乳优异的保湿性和优异的抗水性。
其中,所述增稠剂由丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、黄原胶和***胶树(ACACIA SENEGAL)胶组成。该增稠剂赋予了精华乳更加细腻的外观和肤感。
其中,所述表面活性剂由聚丙烯酸钠、C18-21烷和十三烷醇聚醚-6组成。该表面活性剂赋予了精华乳优异的稳定性。
其中,所述稳定剂的作用是使得具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物在精华乳体系中保持稳定性和均匀的分散性,基于100重量份的稳定剂,所述稳定剂包含:
0.1-1重量份的神经酰胺NP;
3-8重量份的辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯;
2-4重量份的氢化卵磷脂;
2-4重量份的聚山梨醇酯-80;
1-2重量份的1,2-己二醇;
1-3重量份的丁二醇;
0.1-0.5重量份的鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯;
0.05-0.1重量份的乙二胺四乙酸二钠(EDTA二钠);
余量为水。
其中,1,3-丙二醇、甘油、1,2-己二醇、丁二醇和丙二醇的组合同时具有保湿剂和助溶剂的作用,该组合赋予了精华乳优异的保湿性和稳定性。
其中,海藻糖、甜菜碱、燕麦(AVENA SATIVA)β-葡聚糖、尿囊素、泛醇、透明质酸钠和铁皮石斛提取物的组合具有皮肤调理剂的作用,该组合能很快渗透进皮肤,帮助皮肤天然保护层的更新,能促进自然水合作用的平衡,和角质层中的水结合,促进锁住水分。该组合对肌肤保湿修复也有良好作用,能增强皮肤屏障,形成有效的屏障来防止水分流失和减少等外部环境的影响。该组合能减少肌肤红肿和经皮水分流失,起到增强皮肤屏障并帮助受损肌肤缓解干燥状态的作用。
其中,甘草酸二钾具有抑菌剂的作用。
其中,对羟基苯乙酮具有防腐剂的作用。
与现有技术相比,本发明提供的技术方案的有益效果:
本发明提供的具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物,基于中医领域的“君臣佐使”的组方思想,对多种天然植物经过严格考究和筛选,通过各种活性成分的相互协调来最大限度地提升抗敏舒缓活性,能减少组胺释放,抑制透明质酸酶活性,修复敏感肌肤受损屏障功能。本发明提供的精华乳能对敏感性肌肤进行舒缓修复,同时该精华乳具有优异的稳定性、优异的保湿润肤性能、温和低刺激性、以及优异的肌肤修复功效。该精华乳还具有一定的抑菌作用。
具体实施方式
应当理解,此处所描述的具体实施例仅仅用以解释本发明,并不用于限定本发明。
下面结合具体实施,对本发明的权利要求做进一步的详细说明,任何人在本发明权利要求范围内所做的有限次的修改,仍在本发明的权利要求保护范围之内。
实施例1-3提供的具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物的具体组分参数如表1所示。
对比例1-7提供的具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物的具体组分参数如表2所示。
需要说明的是,对比例1-7中使用的水解玉米淀粉不具有抗敏舒缓以及抗菌消炎的作用,该水解玉米淀粉在中国《已使用化妆品原料名称目录(2021版)》中序号为0 6387。
表1
表2
对实施例1-3和对比例1-7提供的组合物进行如下测试:
[体外透明质酸酶抑制测试]
-用冰乙酸稀释溶液和乙酸钠结晶水溶液配制pH为5.0的醋酸缓冲液;再用配制好的醋酸缓冲液配制透明质酸酶溶液(最终工作浓度1250U/mL)和透明质酸钠溶液(0.5g/L);
-将氯化钙配制成浓度为0.25mmol/L的水溶液;
-氢氧化钠配制成浓度为0.4mol/L的水溶液;
-碳酸钠配制成浓度为1mol/L的水溶液后,取50ml碳酸钠水溶液与3.5ml乙酰丙酮混合均匀,配制成乙酰丙酮溶液备用;
-称取1.6g对二甲氨基苯甲醛溶于30mL浓盐酸和30mL无水乙醇中配制成埃尔利希试剂;
-将组合物配制成质量浓度为1%的水溶液待用;
-取0.5mL透明质酸酶溶液和0.1mL 0.25mmol/L氯化钙溶液,在37℃下保温培养20min;
-再加入组合物水溶液0.5mL,继续37℃保温培养20min;
-再加入0.5mL透明质酸钠溶液,37℃保温30min,常温放置5min;
-再加入0.1mL 0.4mol/L氢氧化钠溶液和0.5mL乙酰丙酮溶液,置沸水浴中加热15min后立即用冰水冷却5min;
-再加入埃尔利希试剂1.0mL,并用3.0mL无水乙醇进行稀释,放置20min显色,用分光光度计测定其吸光度(A)。实验时先对A组试样进行450-700nm波长扫描,以确定最大吸收波长,然后以去离子水作为参比,在该最大吸收波长处分别进行吸光度测定。
透明质酸酶抑制率的计算公式为:
透明质酸酶抑制率=[(A-B)-(A-C)]/(A-B)
其中,A为对照溶液吸光度(用醋酸缓冲溶液代替组合物溶液);B为对照空白溶液吸光度(用醋酸缓冲溶液代替组合物溶液及酶液);C为组合物溶液吸光度值;D为组合物空白溶液吸光度(用醋酸缓冲溶液代替酶液)
[体外血红细胞(RBC)溶血测试]
-血红细胞悬液的制备:预先配制pH 7.4磷酸盐(PBS)缓冲液(另添加葡萄糖1.8g/L)及抗凝剂柠檬酸(C6H5Na3O7·2H2O 0.02g/ml,柠檬酸C6H8O7 0.008g/ml),用以处理新鲜血;用离心管分装采集的血液样本,5000r/min离心15min后弃去上清液,加入PBS轻摇混洗后再次离心,反复洗至上清液为无色透明状,最后将沉淀部分用PBS稀释至2%的质量浓度的血红细胞悬液,放置4℃冰箱保存备用;
-确定十二烷基硫酸钠(SDS)合适的实验浓度:离心管中分别加入0.5ml预先用PBS稀释的不同浓度待测样品(SDS)的溶液和0.5ml质量浓度为2%的血红细胞悬液,充分混匀。以PBS为阴性对照,以100mg/L SDS溶液为阳性对照。置于37℃培养箱孵育3h后,2000r/min离心3min,吸取上清液在530nm波长处测定吸光值。根据公式计算溶血率,溶血率(%)=(待测样品A530-待测样品本身A530-阴性对照A530)/(阳性对照A530-阴性对照A530)×100%,选择70%溶血率的SDS的质量浓度为实验浓度。
-测试组合物与SDS共同作用后的红细胞溶血率:将组合物用PBS稀释至质量浓度为1%的溶液备用,然后取0.5ml该溶液与0.5ml质量浓度为2%的血红细胞悬液预先混合,再加入0.5ml实验浓度的SDS溶液,充分混合均匀后,再进行后续孵育及离心,计算溶血率。
[抗刺激性测试]
采用3%SLS溶液和5%果酸作为刺激源,刺激左前臂屈肌皮肤直至红肿,然后将组合物覆盖红肿处并用纱布固定,2天后测试观察皮肤红肿消退程度。
上述测试的结果如表3所示。
表3
体外透明质酸酶抑制测试 | 体外血红细胞(RBC)溶血测试 | 抗刺激性测试 | |
实施例1 | 82.60% | 22.30% | 红肿明显消退 |
实施例2 | 84.50% | 21.90% | 红肿明显消退 |
实施例3 | 81.10% | 22.30% | 红肿明显消退 |
对比例1 | 20.50% | 36.30% | 轻微红肿 |
对比例2 | 28.20% | 37.90% | 轻微红肿 |
对比例3 | 39.30% | 32.30% | 轻微红肿 |
对比例4 | 32.80% | 35.80% | 轻微红肿 |
对比例5 | 40.70% | 33.80% | 轻微红肿 |
对比例6 | 41.40% | 31.60% | 红肿明显消退 |
对比例7 | 46.70% | 34.50% | 红肿明显消退 |
根据表3的测试结果,本发明的组合物通过组分间的协同作用,具有较好的抗敏效果:对透明质酸酶有显著的抑制率,证实本发明的组合物具有抗炎舒缓和协同保湿的功效;对SDS诱导的RBC溶血有一定的抑制作用,证实本发明的组合物组合物有降低刺激、舒缓抗敏的作用;使得3%SLS刺激左前臂区域的红肿快速消退,证实本发明的组合物具有明显的抗刺激抗红肿功效。
实施例4-6均提供一种精华乳,精华乳均采用相同的常规工艺进行制备,精华乳均采用实施例3提供的具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物,精华乳的其它组分均采用市售产品。
实施例4-6的精华乳的具体组分参数如表4所示。
实施例4-6的精华乳所使用的增稠剂由丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、黄原胶和***胶树(ACACIA SENEGAL)胶组成,基于100重量份的增稠剂,所述增稠剂包含:40重量份的丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、30重量份的黄原胶和30重量份的***胶树(ACACIA SENEGAL)胶。
实施例4-6的精华乳所使用的表面活性剂由聚丙烯酸钠、C18-21烷和十三烷醇聚醚-6组成,基于100重量份的表面活性剂,所述表面活性剂包含:10重量份的聚丙烯酸钠、40重量份的C18-21烷和50重量份的十三烷醇聚醚-6。
实施例4-6的精华乳所使用的稳定剂相同,基于100重量份的稳定剂,所述稳定剂包含:
0.8重量份的神经酰胺NP;
5重量份的辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯;
3重量份的氢化卵磷脂;
3重量份的聚山梨醇酯-80;
1.5重量份的1,2-己二醇;
2重量份的丁二醇;
0.5重量份的鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯;
0.08重量份的乙二胺四乙酸二钠(EDTA二钠);
余量为水。
表4
对实施例6提供的精华乳进行如下测试:
[皮肤TEWL值分析]
在腿部肌肤敏感并带瘙痒感的20名受试者的左腿上涂抹实施例6的精华乳,在另一只腿上涂抹某市售抗敏舒缓膏霜,分别在0h、6h和12h时用Tewameter测得受试部位的TEWL值,该值是用来评价皮肤屏障功能及使用产品后,皮肤修复的重要参数,其数值越小则皮肤屏障越好,修复越好。
实验结果:在第6h和12h时,左腿涂抹实施例6的精华乳的区域的TEWL值分别下降了65.2%、73.6%,而右腿涂抹某市售抗敏舒缓膏霜的区域的TEWL值分别下降了40.6%、55.2%。说明本发明实施例6的精华乳能改善敏感肌肤含水量,具有优异的修复屏障功能的作用。
[临床实验]
选年龄段在25岁到45岁的有皮肤敏感及瘙痒症状的自愿者,男自愿者40名,女自愿者40名,随机分为两组,分别为试验组及对照组,每组40人。试验组:每日洁面后,睡前涂抹实施例6的精华乳。对照组:每日洁面后,睡前涂抹某市售抗敏舒缓膏霜。两组人员都不再使用其他护肤品。使用期一个月。
评价标准:瘙痒次数明显减少,红肿消失,皮肤脱屑现象减少呈现水润状态。
实验结果:使用实施例6的精华乳,一周后就明显改善皮肤的红肿,皮肤瘙痒次数明显减少,试验组有效40例,有效率达到100%;市售抗敏舒缓膏霜有效20例,有效率仅为50%左右。使用一个月后,试验组有效率达到100%,市售抗敏产品有效率仅为70%左右。
本发明的精华乳能对皮肤屏障得到修复,而屏障修复对皮肤瘙痒的缓解有作用。本发明的精华乳能够对敏感性肌肤进行舒缓修复。本发明的精华乳稳定性好、温和不刺激并且具有显著的抗敏修复功效。
以上所述实施例的各技术特征可以进行任意的组合,为使描述简洁,未对上述实施例中的各个技术特征所有可能的组合都进行描述,然而,只要这些技术特征的组合不存在矛盾,都应当认为是本说明书记载的范围。
以上所述实施例仅表达了本发明的几种实施方式,其描述较为具体和详细,但并不能因此而理解为对发明专利范围的限制。应当指出的是,对于本领域的普通技术人员来说,在不脱离本发明构思的前提下,还可以做出若干变形和改进,这些都属于本发明的保护范围。因此,本发明专利的保护范围应以所附权利要求为准。
Claims (6)
1.一种具有抗敏舒缓功效的组合物,其特征在于,基于100重量份的所述组合物,所述组合物包含:
20-30重量份的积雪草(CENTELLA ASIATICA)提取物;
20-30重量份的虎杖(POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM)根提取物;
10-20重量份的黄芩(SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS)根提取物;
10-20重量份的茶(CAMELLIA SINENSIS)叶提取物;
5-10重量份的光果甘草(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)根提取物;
5-10重量份的母菊(CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA)花提取物;
5-10重量份的迷迭香(ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS)叶提取物。
2.权利要求1所述的组合物作为添加剂在护肤品和化妆品中的应用。
3.一种精华乳,其特征在于,基于100重量份的所述精华乳,所述精华乳包含:
2-5重量份的辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯;
0.5-2重量份的白池花(LIMNANTHES ALBA)籽油;
0.1-1重量份的生育酚乙酸酯;
0.2-1重量份的甘油硬脂酸酯柠檬酸酯;
0.1-1重量份的聚甘油-3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯;
0.2-0.6重量份的增稠剂;
0.1-1重量份的表面活性剂;
0.1-3重量份的权利要求1所述的组合物;
0.5-1重量份的稳定剂;
2-5重量份的1,3-丙二醇;
2-5重量份的甘油;
0.1-1重量份的1,2-己二醇;
1-5重量份的丁二醇;
1-5重量份的丙二醇;
0.5-2重量份的海藻糖;
2-5重量份的甜菜碱;
0.01-0.1重量份的燕麦(AVENA SATIVA)β-葡聚糖;
0.1-0.2重量份的尿囊素;
0.1-1重量份的泛醇;
0.01-0.1重量份的透明质酸钠;
0.01-0.1重量份的铁皮石斛提取物;
0.1-1重量份的甘草酸二钾;
0.1-1重量份的对羟基苯乙酮;
0.01-0.05重量份的香精;
余量为水。
4.根据权利要求3所述的精华乳,其特征在于,所述增稠剂由丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、黄原胶和***胶树(ACACIA SENEGAL)胶组成。
5.根据权利要求3所述的精华乳,其特征在于,所述表面活性剂由聚丙烯酸钠、C18-21烷和十三烷醇聚醚-6组成。
6.根据权利要求3所述的精华乳,其特征在于,基于100重量份的所述稳定剂,所述稳定剂包含:
0.1-1重量份的神经酰胺NP;
3-8重量份的辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯;
2-4重量份的氢化卵磷脂;
2-4重量份的聚山梨醇酯-80;
1-2重量份的1,2-己二醇;
1-3重量份的丁二醇;
0.1-0.5重量份的鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯;
0.05-0.1重量份的乙二胺四乙酸二钠;
余量为水。
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