CN114875693A - 纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料及其生产工艺 - Google Patents
纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料及其生产工艺 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明属于纺织技术领域,具体涉及一种纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料及其生产工艺,其中棉为40~60英支单纱,100%细绒棉或50%细/50%长绒棉。生产流程为染纱前处理→染色→染纱后处理→织造→整理。本发明克服了针织衬衫彩条面料经过丝光碱缩以后敏感色、深色色牢度低、彩条面料互相沾色、掉色严重,服用性差的缺点。所生产的针织彩条衬衫面料既有良好的舒适性,还具有稳定的色牢度。保证了衬衫面料的高品质、丰富的色彩,也对消费者身体健康起到重要保护作用。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于纺织技术领域,具体涉及一种纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料及其生产工艺。
背景技术
随着经济的快速发展和人民生活水平的提高,人们对穿着的要求也越来越高。在穿着舒适的前提下,人民对健康、环保也有了较高的要求。纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料既能给人带来穿着舒适、保型、挺括性等,也赋予了面料较高的色牢度,具有不掉色、不沾色等优势,具有重要的研究意义。
发明内容
本发明要解决的问题是:根据现有技术的不足,提供一种纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料及生产工艺,克服了针织衬衫彩条面料经过丝光碱缩以后敏感色、深色色牢度低、彩条面料互相沾色、掉色严重,服用性差的缺点,所生产的针织彩条衬衫面料既有很好的舒适性,还具有稳定的色牢度,保证了衬衫面料的高品质、丰富的色彩,也对消费者身体健康起到重要保护作用。
为达到上述目的,本发明采用如下技术方案:
本发明所述的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料,其中棉为40~60英支单纱,100%细绒棉或50%细绒棉/50%长绒棉。
本发明所述的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料的生产工艺,生产流程为染纱前处理→染色→染纱后处理→织造→烧毛→水洗→丝光→拉幅→预缩。
其中:
染纱前处理工序:助剂先从大副缸加入螯合剂0.3-1g/L和精炼剂1.5-3.0g/L,然后搅拌后再加入烧碱6-9g/L,常温保持5-10分钟后双氧水由2#料缸备15%-30%清水化好加入;以2-3℃/min升温至100-120℃,保温40-60min排水;抽入清水升温至80℃-90℃,水洗10-15min,排水;在大副缸中加入中和酸0.5-1.5g/L,在2#料缸加入除氧酶0.1-0.5g/L,分别抽入主缸升温至45-55℃,保温20-25min排水。
染色工序:大副缸加入元明粉,匀染剂1.5-3g/L,搅拌10-20分钟,抽入到主缸后升温至50℃-60℃,保温10-20min,2#料缸入清水40%-60%,升温至80℃-90℃化染料,搅拌10-20min后开始往主缸定量注料15-30min,注料完毕后主缸开始以1-3℃/min升温至60℃-90℃后,保温20-40min;2#料缸入清水40%-60%化纯碱,搅拌15-25min,2#料缸20-40min定量注料,主缸继续保温40-70min,排液。
染纱后处理工序:在大幅缸中加入皂洗剂1.0-2.0g/L抽入主缸,主缸升温至90-105℃保温10-20min,排液,大幅缸继续加入皂洗剂1.0-2.0g/L抽入主缸,主缸升温至90℃-100℃保温10-20min排液,90℃-100℃皂洗重复二次,随后进行10-20min满缸水洗;水洗完成后大副缸备水加入纺织酸0.3-1.0g/L、固色剂2.0-6.0%owf,平滑剂2.0-6.0%owf抽入;主缸升温至40-60℃,保温10-30min后排液。
织造的40~60英支单纱,百圈线长为10~23cm,机号采用32G~44G。圆机筒径22寸~34寸。百圈线长为21.5~22cm,机号采用30〞32G。50英支单纱,百圈线长为12.1~12.8cm,机号采用30〞44G。60英支单纱,百圈线长为16.5~22cm,机号采用34〞36G。
烧毛:烧毛车速70~90m/min,烧毛方式采用透烧或切烧,烧毛火焰强度10~12mbar。
水洗车速30~40m/min,温度在30~80℃,去油剂2~5g/L。
丝光工序:丝光碱浓度为25~28Be,丝光车速为30~35m/min,浸碱区张力为70~90N,淡碱直棍区张力为75~95N,水洗区张力为50~60N,超喂为10~20%。
拉幅车速35~45m/min,烘房温度在130~80℃,超喂为20~30%,轧槽内硅油柔软剂和中和酸的浓度分别为10~50g/L和1~5g/L,固色剂FA-R 5~10g/L。
与现有技术相比,本发明具有如下有益效果:
1、本发明生产的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料,在染纱时前处理加入螯合剂净化了水质,避免了因钙镁离子与染料的结合产生的浮色。
2、本发明生产的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料,在染纱过程中升温温度由低到高,逐步升温,确保均匀染色。
3、本发明生产的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料,在染纱过程中采用温和固色工艺避免因固色条件剧烈导致染料在纤维表面形成物理性堆积。
4、本发明生产的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料,在染纱过程中在皂洗后又加入满缸水洗工艺,防止皂洗时皂液中染料浓度过高,形成二次沾色。
5、本发明生产的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料,结合后整理工艺,通过水洗以及拉幅过程中加入的FA-R固色剂加工处理使牢度更加稳固;通过丝光使面料具有尺寸稳定性和光泽。
6、本发明生产的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料,具有穿着舒适、花型丰富、色彩稳定等特点,也具有耐磨性好、耐穿性佳、耐洗性强等优势。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明做进一步的说明。
实施例1
用纱 | 100%细绒棉 |
纱支 | 40英支单纱 |
组织 | 汗布 |
颜色 | 浅蓝、深蓝相间 |
具体生产工艺流程为:染纱前处理→染色→染纱后处理→织造→烧毛→水洗→丝光→拉幅→预缩。
染纱:
纱线前处理:使用螯合剂0.5g/l,精炼剂3g/l,氢氧化钠3.0g/l,双氧水8.0g/l,浴比为1:10.5,处理温度为105℃,处理时间为40min,后水洗10min,再加除氧酶0.2g/l,中和酸0.9g/l,处理温度为55℃,处理时间为15min。
染棉阶段:大副缸加入元明粉,匀染剂2g/L,搅拌15分钟,抽入到主缸后升温至60℃,保温10分钟,1#缸55%回水升温至90℃化科莱恩染料NAVYGN(0.74%owf)、RED6(1.07%owf)、Y4RN(1.81%owf),搅拌15min后,定量注料20min;注料完毕后主缸开始以2℃/min升温至90℃后,保温30min。2#料缸入清水55%化纯碱,搅拌15-25min,2#料缸定量注料30分钟,主缸90℃继续保温60分钟,排液。
后处理阶段:在大幅缸中加入皂洗剂WOLR(1.0g/L)抽入主缸,主缸升温至105℃保温15min排液,大幅缸继续加入皂洗剂WOLR(1.0g/L)抽入主缸,主缸升温至98℃保温15min排液,98℃皂洗重复二次,随后进行10分钟水洗。水洗完成后大副缸备水加入HAC-P65(0.6g/L)、固色剂FAR(4.0%owf)平滑剂(3.5%owf)抽入;主缸升温至55℃,保温21min后排液。
织造:采用40英支单纱,组织为汗布百圈线长为21.8m,机号采用30〞32G
整理:烧毛车速70m/min,烧毛方式采用透烧,烧毛火焰强度12mbar。水洗车速35m/min,水箱温度依次是30℃、80℃、80℃、80℃、50℃,去油剂2g/L。丝光碱浓度为25Be,丝光车速为30m/min,浸碱区张力为70N,淡碱直棍区张力为75N,水洗区张力为60N,超喂为15%;拉幅车速40m/min,烘房温度在140℃,中和酸4g/L固色剂FA-R 6g/L,柔软剂SMI-60 10g/L。
实施例2
具体生产工艺流程为:染纱前处理→染色→染纱后处理→织造→烧毛→水洗→丝光→拉幅→预缩。
染纱:
纱线前处理:使用螯合剂0.5g/l,精炼剂3g/l,氢氧化钠3.0g/l,双氧水8.0g/l,浴比为1:10.5,处理温度为105℃,处理时间为40min,后水洗10min,再加除氧酶0.2g/l,中和酸0.9g/l,处理温度为55℃,处理时间为15min.
染棉阶段:大副缸加入元明粉,匀染剂(2g/L),搅拌15分钟,抽入到主缸后升温至60℃,保温10分钟,1#缸55%回水升温至90℃化科莱恩染料NAVYGN(2.16%owf)、RED6(0.755%owf)、Y4RN(0.27%owf),搅拌15min后,定量注料20min;注料完毕后主缸开始以2℃/min升温至90℃后,保温30min。2#料缸入清水55%化纯碱,搅拌15-25min,2#料缸定量注料30分钟,主缸90℃继续保温60分钟,排液。
后处理阶段:在大幅缸中加入皂洗剂WOLR(1.0g/L)抽入主缸,主缸升温至105℃保温15min排液,大幅缸继续加入皂洗剂WOLR(1.0g/L)抽入主缸,主缸升温至98℃保温15min排液,98℃皂洗重复二次,随后进行10分钟水洗。水洗完成后大副缸备水加入HAC-P65(0.6g/L)、固色剂FAR(4.0%owf)平滑剂(3.5%owf)抽入;主缸升温至55℃,保温21min后排液。
织造:50英支单纱,组织为芝麻点百圈线长为12.4~12.6cm,机号采用30〞44G。
整理:烧毛车速80m/min,烧毛方式采用切烧,烧毛火焰强度10mbar。水洗车速30m/min,温度在30℃、80℃、80℃、80℃、60℃,去油剂FLX 5g/L。丝光碱浓度为25Be,丝光车速为30m/min,浸碱区张力为70N,淡碱直棍区张力为75N,水洗区张力为60N,超喂为15%;拉幅车速35m/min,烘房温度在140℃,中和酸4g/L,固色剂FA-R 10g/L.柔软剂SMI-60 30g/L。
实施例3
用纱 | 50%细/50%长绒棉 |
纱支 | 60英支单纱 |
组织 | 提花 |
颜色 | 白、深蓝相间 |
具体生产工艺流程为:染纱前处理→染色→染纱后处理→织造→烧毛→水洗→丝光→拉幅→预缩。
染纱:
纱线前处理:使用螯合剂0.5g/l,精炼剂3g/l,氢氧化钠3.0g/l,双氧水8.0g/l,浴比为1:10.5,处理温度为105℃,处理时间为40min,后水洗10min,再加除氧酶0.2g/l,中和酸0.9g/l,处理温度为55℃,处理时间为15min.
染棉阶段:大副缸加入元明粉,匀染剂(2g/L),搅拌15分钟,抽入到主缸后升温至60℃,保温10分钟,1#缸55%回水升温至90℃化科莱恩染料NAVYGN(2.4%owf)BBLNYY(1.3%owf)、Y4RN(1.2%owf),搅拌15min后,定量注料20min;注料完毕后主缸开始以2℃/min升温至90℃后,保温30min。2#料缸入清水55%化纯碱,搅拌15-25min,2#料缸定量注料30分钟,主缸90℃继续保温60分钟,排液。
后处理阶段:在大幅缸中加入皂洗剂WOLR(1.0g/L)抽入主缸,主缸升温至105℃保温15min排液,大幅缸继续加入皂洗剂WOLR(1.0g/L)抽入主缸,主缸升温至98℃保温15min排液,98℃皂洗重复二次,随后进行10分钟水洗。水洗完成后大副缸备水加入HAC-P65(0.6g/L)、固色剂FAR(4.0%owf)平滑剂(3.5%owf)抽入;主缸升温至55℃,保温21min后排液。
织造:60英支单纱,组织为提花百圈线长为16.5~22cm,机号采用34〞36G。
整理:烧毛车速90m/min,烧毛方式采用切烧,烧毛火焰强度10mbar。水洗车速30m/min,水箱温度依次是30℃、30℃、80℃、80℃、60℃,去油剂FLX 2g/L。丝光碱浓度为26Be,丝光车速为30m/min,浸碱区张力为70N,淡碱直棍区张力为75N,水洗区张力为60N,超喂为17%;拉幅车速30m/min,烘房温度在140℃,中和酸5g/L,固色剂FA-R 5g/L,柔软剂SHE-0220g/L.
成品参数:
对实施例1~3所得面料进行内在质量测试数据,测试标准执行:水洗尺寸稳定率ISO 6330法,耐洗色牢度ISO 105-C06法,耐酸汗渍色牢度ISO 105-E04法,耐碱汗渍色牢度ISO 105-E04法,耐水色牢度ISO 105-E01法,耐热压色牢度ISO 105-X11法,耐摩擦色牢度ISO 105-X12法,移染日本大丸法。
当然,上述内容仅为本发明的较佳实施例,不能被认为用于限定对本发明的实施例范围。本发明也并不仅限于上述举例,本技术领域的普通技术人员在本发明的实质范围内所做出的均等变化与改进等,均应归属于本发明的专利涵盖范围内。
Claims (9)
1.一种纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料,其特征在于:其中棉为40~60英支单纱,100%细绒棉或50%细绒棉/50%长绒棉。
2.一种权利要求1所述的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:生产流程为染纱前处理→染色→染纱后处理→织造→烧毛→水洗→丝光→拉幅→预缩。
3.根据权利要求2所述的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:染纱前处理工序:助剂先从大副缸加入螯合剂0.3-1g/L和精炼剂1.5-3.0g/L,然后搅拌后再加入烧碱6-9g/L,常温保持5-10分钟后双氧水由2#料缸备15%-30%清水化好加入;以2-3℃/min升温至100-120℃,保温40-60min排水;抽入清水升温至80℃-90℃,水洗10-15min,排水;在大副缸中加入中和酸0.5-1.5g/L,在2#料缸加入除氧酶0.1-0.5g/L,分别抽入主缸升温至45-55℃,保温20-25min排水。
4.根据权利要求2所述的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:染色工序:大副缸加入元明粉,匀染剂1.5-3g/L,搅拌10-20分钟,抽入到主缸后升温至50℃-60℃,保温10-20min,2#料缸入清水40%-60%,升温至80℃-90℃化染料,搅拌10-20min后开始往主缸定量注料15-30min,注料完毕后主缸开始以1-3℃/min升温至60℃-90℃后,保温20-40min;2#料缸入清水40%-60%化纯碱,搅拌15-25min,2#料缸20-40min定量注料,主缸继续保温40-70min,排液。
5.根据权利要求2所述的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:染纱后处理工序:在大幅缸中加入皂洗剂1.0-2.0g/L抽入主缸,主缸升温至90-105℃保温10-20min,排液,大幅缸继续加入皂洗剂1.0-2.0g/L抽入主缸,主缸升温至90℃-100℃保温10-20min排液,90℃-100℃皂洗重复二次,随后进行10-20min满缸水洗;水洗完成后大副缸备水加入纺织酸0.3-1.0g/L、固色剂2.0-6.0%owf,平滑剂2.0-6.0%owf抽入;主缸升温至40-60℃,保温10-30min后排液。
6.根据权利要求2所述的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:织造的40~60英支单纱,百圈线长为10~23cm,机号采用32G~44G,圆机筒径22寸~34寸。
7.根据权利要求2所述的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:烧毛车速70~90m/min,烧毛方式采用透烧或切烧,烧毛火焰强度10~12mbar;水洗车速30~40m/min,温度在30~80℃,去油剂2~5g/L。
8.根据权利要求2所述的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:丝光工序:丝光碱浓度为25~28Be,丝光车速为30~35m/min,浸碱区张力为70~90N,淡碱直棍区张力为75~95N,水洗区张力为50~60N,超喂为10~20%。
9.根据权利要求2所述的纯棉高色牢度针织衬衫彩条面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:拉幅车速35~45m/min,烘房温度在130~80℃,超喂为20~30%,轧槽内硅油柔软剂和中和酸的浓度分别为10~50g/L和1~5g/L,固色剂FA-R 5~10g/L。
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