CN114836998A - Processing technology of diacetate staple fiber blended knitted fabric - Google Patents

Processing technology of diacetate staple fiber blended knitted fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN114836998A
CN114836998A CN202210527701.5A CN202210527701A CN114836998A CN 114836998 A CN114836998 A CN 114836998A CN 202210527701 A CN202210527701 A CN 202210527701A CN 114836998 A CN114836998 A CN 114836998A
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diacetate
knitted fabric
temperature
processing technology
blending
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CN202210527701.5A
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CN114836998B (en
Inventor
于建明
汤景岳
徐行行
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Yancheng Fuhui Textiles Co ltd
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Yancheng Fuhui Textiles Co ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D02G3/045Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from artificial or synthetic material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/44Yarns or threads characterised by the purpose for which they are designed
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0032Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8214Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing ester and amide groups
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8219Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and amide groups
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8223Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups
    • D06P3/8228Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups using one kind of dye
    • D06P3/8233Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups using one kind of dye using dispersed dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02PCLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
    • Y02P70/00Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
    • Y02P70/50Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
    • Y02P70/62Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a processing technology of a diacetate staple fiber blended knitted fabric, which comprises the steps of blending low-temperature dyeable polyester staple fibers and diacetate staple fibers in proportion, and interweaving the blended yarns and spandex yarns in proportion to obtain an original fabric blank; and then unwinding the original cloth blank, presetting, dyeing, drying and setting to obtain the diacetate short fiber blended knitted fabric. According to the scheme of the invention, through reasonable blending material selection and proportion matching, the advantages of the diacetate fibers are fully exerted, and partial defects of the diacetate fibers such as low strength, easy wrinkle and scratch and the like are avoided.

Description

Processing technology of diacetate staple fiber blended knitted fabric
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of knitted fabric manufacturing, and particularly relates to a processing technology of a diacetate staple fiber blended knitted fabric.
Background
The fabric containing the diacetate fibers has silky hand feeling, refreshing and air-permeable property, easy management, luxurious quality like real silk luster, draping feeling and the like, and has high taking value. However, the diacetate fibers have the problems of low strength, easy crease and scratch, no high temperature resistance and alkaline conditions, low dye uptake, poor color fastness and the like, and the diacetate fibers cannot be widely applied to the clothing market so far.
Disclosure of Invention
The purpose of the invention is as follows: the invention aims to provide a processing technology of a short cellulose diacetate blended knitted fabric, which has high strength, does not damage cellulose diacetate in the dyeing processing process and has high color fastness, aiming at the defects of the prior art.
The technical scheme is as follows: the processing technology of the diacetate short fiber blended knitted fabric comprises the steps of blending low-temperature dyeable polyester short fibers and diacetate short fibers in proportion, and interweaving blended yarns and spandex yarns in proportion to obtain an original fabric blank; and then unwinding the original cloth blank, presetting, dyeing, drying and setting to obtain the diacetate staple fiber blended knitted fabric.
The method specifically comprises the following steps:
(1) weaving: blending low-temperature dyeable polyester staple fibers and diacetate staple fibers in proportion, and interweaving the blended yarns and spandex yarns in proportion to obtain an original fabric blank;
(2) presetting: at the temperature of 170-185 ℃, the speed of the cloth feeding machine of the setting machine is kept at 30m/min, and the cloth is pre-set;
(3) pretreatment: 1g/L of alkali oil TP80 and 1g/L of degreaser WD071D are added into the pretreatment system, and the bath ratio is set to be 1: 12, before cloth feeding, the water temperature is set to be 35-45 ℃, the temperature is increased to 90 ℃ in a gradient manner, and pretreatment is carried out for 20-25 min;
(4) dyeing: putting the cloth into a dye vat, adding 1g/L of a softening agent, a leveling agent, a dispersing agent and HAC (acetic acid) into a dyeing system at 35-45 ℃, then adding disperse dyes in batches, heating up to 70 ℃ at the speed of 1 ℃/min, maintaining for 10-15min, heating up to 80 ℃ at the speed of 1 ℃/min, heating up to 95 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, maintaining for 30-40min, cooling to 50-55 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and discharging water after dyeing is finished;
(5) and (3) post-treatment: adding 35-45 deg.C water and adding Na 2 CO 3 And CH 4 N 2 O 2 S is 1g/L respectively, then the temperature is raised to 80 ℃, the washing is carried out for 10-20min, and water is discharged; then cleaning with clear water at 80 deg.C for 10-20min, and draining; finally adding 0.3g/l acetic acid HAC into water at the temperature of 20-25 ℃, running for 10min, and discharging water and cloth;
(6) and (3) finished product: firstly, drying the cloth at 130 ℃ at the running speed of 30 m/min; shaping at 130 deg.C with softener at 30 m/min.
In the step (4), the softening agent is TF-208L, the leveling agent is TF215, and the dispersing agent is DM 2961;
setting the setting time to be 30-60 s in the step (6).
Further, as a preferred embodiment, the low-temperature dyeable polyester staple fiber is a copolymer obtained by polycondensation of four monomers, namely terephthalic acid, ethylene glycol, sodium sulfoisophthalate and polyethylene glycol;
the diacetate staple fiber is specifically as follows: acetylation treatment is carried out on wood pulp, and 74% -92% of hydroxyl in cellulose reacts with acetic anhydride to obtain cellulose diacetate.
The blending ratio of the polyester staple fibers to the diacetate staple fibers is (70-99) to (30-1).
Has the advantages that: (1) according to the scheme of the invention, through reasonable blending material selection and proportion collocation, the advantages of the diacetate fibers are fully exerted, and meanwhile, the modified polyester staple fibers are added in the blending to make up for the defects of the diacetate staple fibers, such as low strength, easy wrinkle and scratch and the like; (2) the blended low-temperature dyeable polyester can be dyed by using the disperse dye at a temperature of 95 ℃, and the temperature is also suitable for dyeing the diacetate short fibers by using the disperse dye, so that the damage of high-temperature dyeing to the excellent performance of the diacetate short fibers is avoided; (3) the scheme of the invention overcomes the difficult problems of dyeing and finishing processes of diacetate short fiber fabric, such as using a softening agent (TF208L:1g/L) in bath to reduce wrinkles and scratches, screening applicable disperse dyes and dyeing processes, improving the color yield and color fastness of fabrics, and simultaneously avoiding fiber damage; (4) the scheme preferably selects the setting process of 130 ℃ and 30-60 s on the basis of selecting blended yarns and dyeing procedures, and ensures the smoothness, hand feeling and luster of the fabric.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a flow chart of a dyeing process in accordance with the embodiment of the present invention 1.
Detailed Description
The technical solution of the present invention is described in detail by the following examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited to the examples.
Example 1: the blending proportion of the low-temperature dyeable polyester staple fibers and the diacetate staple fibers adopted as raw materials is 70: 30, considering that both the low-temperature dyeable polyester staple fiber and the diacetate fiber can not resist high temperature, the star H550 low-temperature spandex is selected and matched for interweaving, the low-temperature dyeable polyester staple fiber adopted in the embodiment is from China petrochemical characterization chemical fiber Limited liability company, specifically is a normal-pressure dyeable cationic polyester fiber, and adopts a code ECDP; the cloth knitted by the materials is as follows: 40S/1ECDP/Cellulose Di-Acetate 70/30SIRO COMPACT +30D H550 SPANDEX tension frame plain weave to obtain the original fabric blank; the low-temperature dyeable polyester staple fiber in the embodiment is a copolymer obtained by polycondensation of four monomers, namely terephthalic acid, ethylene glycol, sodium sulfoisophthalate and polyethylene glycol; the diacetate staple fiber is specifically as follows: acetylation treatment is carried out on wood pulp, and 74% -92% of hydroxyl in cellulose reacts with acetic anhydride to obtain cellulose diacetate;
carrying out a fabric dyeing and finishing processing flow on the original fabric blank: and unwinding, presetting, dyeing, drying and setting to obtain the cloth of the embodiment.
(1) Presetting: presetting at the speed of 30m/min at the temperature of 180 ℃, controlling the time at 45s, ensuring that the spandex is stable and simultaneously having no damage to ECDP and diacetate fibers;
(2) pretreatment: selecting a bath ratio of 1: 12, adding warm water before cloth feeding at 40 ℃, alkali oil TP 801 g/L, deoiling agent WD071D 1g/L, and discharging water at 90 ℃ for 20 min;
(3) dyeing: adding water at 40 ℃, wherein 1g/L of each of a softening agent TF-208L, a leveling agent TF215, a dispersing agent DM2961 and acetic acid HAC is added in the bath, the dye is Anonolong FX series, the temperature rising process refers to the attached figure 1, the dyeing of polyester staple fibers and diacetic acid which can be dyed at low temperature can be realized simultaneously, and water is added after the dyeing is finished;
(4) and (3) post-treatment: adding warm water again at 40 deg.C for reduction cleaning, adding Na 2 CO 3 、CH 4 N 2 O 2 S, keeping the temperature of 1g/L of water at 80 ℃ for 15min, discharging water, adding clean water, heating to 80 ℃, cleaning for 15min, discharging water, finally adding 0.3g/L of HAC (hydrogen-activated carbon) at 10-25 ℃ into cold water, cleaning for 10min, discharging water and discharging cloth;
(5) drying: firstly, drying the cloth at 130 ℃ at the running speed of 30 m/min; and (4) shaping for 45s at the running speed of 30m/min under the condition of a softening agent at the temperature of 130 ℃ to obtain a finished product.
The fabric obtained in this example was subjected to performance testing, and the results are shown in table 1:
table 1, example 1 performance test results of the diacetate staple fiber blended knitted fabric:
Figure BDA0003644998120000041
the comparison sample in table 1 is a fabric produced by selecting the same blending ratio of the conventional terylene and the diacetate fiber blended yarn woollen cloth and dyeing the conventional terylene by the disperse dye at 130 degrees.
According to the comparison detection results, the color fastness of the short cellulose diacetate blended knitted fabric obtained by the embodiment is superior to that of similar products in the market; visual inspection shows that the homochromatism of the two fibers in the fabrics of the examples is good, and obvious color difference exists between the diacetate fibers and the polyester fibers in the comparison sample; the strength of the fabrics of the examples is better than that of the comparative sample.
As noted above, while the present invention has been shown and described with reference to certain preferred embodiments, it is not to be construed as limited thereto. Various changes in form and detail may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

Claims (6)

1. A processing technology of a diacetate staple fiber blended knitted fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: firstly, blending low-temperature dyeable polyester staple fibers and diacetate staple fibers in proportion, and interweaving blended yarns and spandex yarns in proportion to obtain an original fabric blank; and then unwinding the original cloth blank, presetting, dyeing, drying and setting to obtain the diacetate short fiber blended knitted fabric.
2. The processing technology of the short cellulose diacetate blending knitted fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) weaving: blending low-temperature dyeable polyester staple fibers and diacetate staple fibers in proportion, and interweaving the blended yarns and spandex yarns in proportion to obtain an original fabric blank;
(2) presetting: at the temperature of 185 ℃ below 170-;
(3) pretreatment: 1g/L of alkali oil TP80 and 1g/L of degreaser WD071D are added into the pretreatment system, and the bath ratio is set to be 1: 12, before cloth feeding, the water temperature is set to be 35-45 ℃, the temperature is increased to 90 ℃ in a gradient manner, and pretreatment is carried out for 20-25 min;
(4) dyeing: putting the cloth into a dye vat, adding 1g/L of a softening agent, a leveling agent, a dispersing agent and HAC (acetic acid) into a dyeing system at 35-45 ℃, then adding disperse dyes in batches, heating up to 70 ℃ at the speed of 1 ℃/min, maintaining for 10-15min, heating up to 80 ℃ at the speed of 1 ℃/min, heating up to 95 ℃ at the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, maintaining for 30-40min, cooling to 50-55 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min, and discharging water after dyeing is finished;
(5) and (3) post-treatment: adding 35-45 deg.C water and adding Na 2 CO 3 And CH 4 N 2 O 2 S is 1g/L respectively, then the temperature is raised to 80 ℃, the washing is carried out for 10-20min, and water is discharged; then cleaning with clear water at 80 deg.C for 10-20min, and draining; finally adding 0.3g/l acetic acid HAC into water at the temperature of 20-25 ℃, running for 10min, and discharging water and cloth;
(6) and (3) finished product: firstly, drying the cloth at 130 ℃ at the running speed of 30 m/min; shaping at 130 deg.C with softener at 30 m/min.
3. The processing technology of the short cellulose diacetate blending knitted fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that: in the step (4), the softening agent is TF-208L, the leveling agent is TF215, and the dispersing agent is DM 2961.
4. The processing technology of the short cellulose diacetate blending knitted fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that: setting the setting time to be 30-60 s in the step (6).
5. The processing technology of the short cellulose diacetate blending knitted fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: the low-temperature dyeable polyester staple fiber is a copolymer obtained by polycondensation of four monomers, namely terephthalic acid, ethylene glycol, sodium sulfoisophthalate and polyethylene glycol;
the diacetate staple fiber is specifically as follows: acetylation treatment is carried out on wood pulp, and 74% -92% of hydroxyl in cellulose reacts with acetic anhydride to obtain cellulose diacetate.
6. The processing technology of the short cellulose diacetate blending knitted fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that: the blending ratio of the low-temperature dyeable polyester staple fibers to the diacetate staple fibers is 70-99: 30-1.
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CN115559051A (en) * 2022-09-29 2023-01-03 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 Cellulose acetylated diacetate super-soft light anti-pilling knitted fabric and preparation method thereof
CN115787319A (en) * 2022-12-15 2023-03-14 互太(番禺)纺织印染有限公司 Dyeing process of diacetate fiber and terylene blended fabric

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CN115559051A (en) * 2022-09-29 2023-01-03 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 Cellulose acetylated diacetate super-soft light anti-pilling knitted fabric and preparation method thereof
CN115787319A (en) * 2022-12-15 2023-03-14 互太(番禺)纺织印染有限公司 Dyeing process of diacetate fiber and terylene blended fabric
CN115787319B (en) * 2022-12-15 2024-05-14 互太(番禺)纺织印染有限公司 Dyeing process of blend fabric of diacetate fibers and polyester fibers

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