CN114775140A - Multi-weft combined jacquard weaving method - Google Patents

Multi-weft combined jacquard weaving method Download PDF

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Publication number
CN114775140A
CN114775140A CN202210537571.3A CN202210537571A CN114775140A CN 114775140 A CN114775140 A CN 114775140A CN 202210537571 A CN202210537571 A CN 202210537571A CN 114775140 A CN114775140 A CN 114775140A
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weft
point
combined
warp
equal
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CN114775140B (en
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周赳
胡伊丽
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Zhejiang Sci Tech University ZSTU
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Zhejiang Sci Tech University ZSTU
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
    • Y02P70/00—Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
    • Y02P70/50—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
    • Y02P70/62—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The application provides a weaving method of a multi-weft combined jacquard fabric, belonging to the technical field of weaving methods. The weaving method comprises the following steps: (1) determining the number of combined wefts and arrangement of wefts; (2) setting the number of basic tissue cycles; (3) designing a basic organization starting point position; (4) and (5) structure verification and application. The application is suitable for a single-warp multi-weft combined structure, and the technology of the adaptive combined full-color-development fabric structure enables the longest warp floating length in the combined structure to be equal and controllable. By adopting the technical scheme, the technical problem that the floating length of the fabric cannot be controlled due to the increase of the number of layers can be effectively reduced, and the technical requirement of mass production can be met.

Description

Multi-weft combined jacquard weaving method
Technical Field
The application relates to a weaving method of a multi-weft combined jacquard fabric, belonging to the technical field of weaving methods.
Background
The combined structure in the layered combined design mode can improve the mixed color quantity on the surface of the fabric to millions, but the application of the multi-weft combined structure easily causes uncontrollable floating length of the warp of the structure, and the overlong floating length causes the problems of loose interweaving structure, floating and sliding yarn, snagging, unclear texture and the like of the fabric.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the present application provides a method for weaving a multi-weft combined jacquard fabric, in which a multi-weft combined fully-exposed structure formed by the weaving method can effectively control the warp floating length of the combined structure.
Specifically, the application is realized through the following scheme:
a weaving method of a multi-weft combined jacquard fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) the number of combined wefts in the multi-weft combination can be a single-warp odd-numbered weft combination or a single-warp even-numbered weft combination, the number of combined wefts is determined to be M, M is more than or equal to 2, the wefts are arranged in a weft-by-weft equal ratio mode, and each weft is named as a first weft, a second weft, a third weft … … (M-1) weft and an M weft from bottom to top in sequence;
(2) setting the number of basal tissue cycles as R, wherein R is more than or equal to 5, and the following relation exists between R and M:
when R is M x n, n is a positive integer and does not meet the requirement of the constant warp and float combined structure, a first basic tissue is formed and is marked as A1，
When R is M x n +1, n is a positive integer, the requirement of the equal warp floating length composite structure is met, and in the composite structure, (1,1+ R) points fall on weft insertion rows, namely weft insertion structure points, a second basic structure is formed, and is marked as A2，
When R is M x n +2, n is a positive integer, the requirement of the equal warp floating length composite structure is met, and in the composite structure, (1,1+ R) points fall on the weft-weft rows to form weft-weft insertion structure points, a third basic structure is formed, and is marked as A3，
……，
When R is M x n + (M-1), n is a positive integer, the requirement of the equal warp floating length composite structure is met, and in the composite structure, (1,1+ R) points fall on (M-1) weft rows, namely, (M-1) weft tissue points, the Mth basic tissue is formed, and is marked as AM，
In the above process, the preferred number of cycles of the basic structure is required to satisfy the design of the composite structure capable of generating equal warp float in the composite structure, so that the M groups of basic structures with the cycle number R are arranged in equal ratio by weft, the obtained number of cycles of the composite structure is R × MR, and each group of basic structures (A) is1、A2、A3、……AM) With the same number of cycles and the same number of flights (in one tissue cycle,the number of other system yarns spaced between corresponding stitch points on two adjacent yarns of the same system yarn is called the stitch point number of flights, abbreviated as number of flights, and the number of flights occurring between corresponding stitch points of adjacent warp yarns is called the warp direction number of flights, denoted by SjRepresents; generating flyings between corresponding points of adjacent weft yarns, called weft flyings, by SwRepresentation), but the starting point (warp, weft) position is different;
(3) determining the positions of the starting points of multiple groups of basic tissues:
m groups have the same organization cycle number and flight number, and the basic organization at different initial point positions is A1、A2、A3、……AM，
In the combined tissue cycle number of R.times.MR, the basal tissue A is fixed with the lower left corner as the starting point1The starting point is (1,1),
in the combined number of tissue cycles, A is added1Moving the starting point upwards by R point along the warp direction, determining a (1,1+ R) point, taking the (1,1+ R) point as a fixed point, and equating to the basic tissue A1Number of flights complement a2While determining the position of the starting point of the group of wefts and the position of the weft row,
a is to be1The starting point is shifted up by 2R points along the warp direction, a (1,1+2R) point is determined, the (1,1+2R) point is taken as a fixed point, and the method is equivalent to the basic organization A1Number of flights supplement A3While determining the position of the starting point of the group of wefts and the position of the weft row,
……，
a is to be1Moving the starting point upwards by (M-1) R point along the warp direction, determining a (1,1+ (M-1) R) point, taking the (1,1+2R) point as a fixed point, and equating to the basic tissue A1Number of flights supplement AMWhile determining the position of the starting point of the group of wefts and the position of the weft row,
(4) recording the starting point position of each basic organization, and enabling M groups of basic organizations to be according to A1、A2、A3、……AMThe sequential order of the steps is combined with each other in a longitudinal equal ratio to obtain a structure diagram of the equal warp floating length and the multiple wefts combined.
The structure diagram of the multi-weft combination formed by the process has the following characteristics:
1) the warp floating length ratio of the basic tissue after combination is equal, and the longest warp floating length is R-1.
2) After the basic tissues are combined, in the tissues of which the warp direction cycle number and the weft direction cycle number of M adjacent tissues are R, the tissue points are different in sequence but have the same tissue point distribution characteristics.
(5) The equal warp float length multi-weft combined structure diagram obtained in the step (4) is used for weaving jacquard fabrics: and (2) forming a single-layer structure by the basic texture through shadow light texture, combining the single-layer structure by a combined full-display method to form a combined structure with equal warp floating length, and matching the weft selection information in the step (1) to form the multi-weft combined jacquard fabric.
And (5) checking the effectiveness of the float length control of the equal-warp float length combined structure before the structure application in the step (5), and when a one-weft two-point full-display technical point is used, combining the longest warp float length on the surface generated by the full-display structure to be R-3, and weaving by matching with weft selection information to form the multi-weft combined jacquard fabric.
The method aims to solve the problem that the warp floating length is uncontrollable due to the increase of the number of combined wefts in the layered combined structure, and the longest floating length of every two adjacent groups of wefts in the combined structure is controlled by determining the number of basic organization cycles so as to ensure that the longest floating length of the warp floating length does not exceed the longest floating length of a single weft structure all the time in the change process of the combined structure and integrally present a multi-weft combined structure with equal warp floating length. The method is suitable for a single-warp multi-weft combined structure and can be used for adaptively combining a full-color development structure.
The application has the following beneficial effects:
by applying the technical scheme, two or more groups of even weft combined full-color jacquard fabrics and three or more groups of odd weft combined full-color jacquard fabrics can be developed. The main characteristics of the fabric obtained are: on the basis of not influencing the color rendering effect of the composite structure, the warp float length of the composite structure is reduced to the maximum extent, and the warp float length and the weft float length of each section in the composite structure are equal and are R-1, and the warp float length and the weft float length are represented on a fabric structure as follows: the fabric has compact interweaving structure, stable yarn, no yarn jump and clear weaving pattern.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a weft row with single warp and three weft combined in equal ratio;
fig. 2 is a combined structure formed by combining three groups of basic structures with the cycle number of 16, wherein the warp is multiplied by the weft is 16 multiplied by 48;
fig. 3 is a combined structure diagram in which the fixed start point position is the lower left corner ((warp, weft) ═ 1, 1));
fig. 4 is a combined structure diagram of 16 points added (warp, weft) ═ 1, 17) on the basis of fig. 3;
fig. 5 is a combined weave diagram of 32 point increasing points shifted on the basis of fig. 3 ((warp, weft) ═ 1, 33));
FIG. 6 shows the equal warp float length combination structure chart of R-16 and the basic structure A1＝16，SW3, W1, basal organization A2＝16，SW3, W2, base structure A3＝16，SW＝3，W＝3；
FIG. 7 shows a combined structure of equal warp float length tissue structure and basic structure A with R161＝16，SW5, W1, basal organization A2＝16，SW5, W8, basal organization A3＝16，SW＝5，W＝15；
FIG. 8 is a drawing showing a combination of a structural drawing of an equal warp float length tissue and a basic tissue A with R being 161＝16，SW7, W1, basal organization A2＝16，SW7, W14, basal organization A3＝16，SW＝7，W＝11；
FIG. 9 shows a combination of equal warp float length pattern and base pattern A with R161＝16，SW9, W1, base structure A2＝16，SW9, W4, basal organization A3＝16，SW＝9，W＝7；
FIG. 10 shows a combination of equal warp float length pattern and base pattern A with R161＝16，SW11, W1, basic structure a2＝16，SW11, W10, basal organization A3＝16，SW＝11，W＝3；
FIG. 11 shows the structure of equal warp float combined weave and the basic weave A with R being 161＝16，SW13, W1, basal organization A2＝16，SW13, W14, basal organization A3＝16，SW＝13，W＝13；
FIG. 12 shows a three-weft full-apparent tissue library with an equal-warp float length composite structure.
In the above notation, W is the location based on the lower left corner as the starting point, e.g., a 1-16, SWBase structure a with 3, W1, cycle number R161Its flying number in weft direction SWIs 3, and the weft starting point is set to be 1. And so on.
Detailed Description
In this embodiment, a single warp odd weft combination is selected as an example, and the weaving method of the multi-weft combination jacquard fabric specifically comprises the following steps:
(1) with reference to fig. 1, determining that the number of combined wefts is three, that is, M is 3, and M is greater than or equal to 2; the combination ratio is 1:1: 1.
(2) According to the optimal formula of the basic organization cycle number designed by the constant warp float length composite structure, R is more than or equal to 5, and:
since R6, 9, 12, and 15 … … satisfy the formula R3 n, and n is a positive integer, the number of cycles does not satisfy the technical requirements of designing a float-length composite structure.
The formula R7, 10, 13, 16 … … is satisfied, R3 n +1, n is a positive integer, so these numbers of cycles satisfy the technical requirement of designing equal warp-float composite structure, and the (1,1+ R) point in the composite structure falls on the weft insertion row, i.e. the weft insertion point.
Since R is 5, 8, 11, 14, and 17 … … satisfy the formula R is 3 × n +2, n is a positive integer, these cycle numbers satisfy the technical requirements of designing the warp-float composite structure, and the (1,1+ R) point in the composite structure falls on the weft-weft row, i.e., the weft-weft structure point.
Selecting proper number of tissue cycles according to production conditions, and selecting basic tissue with 16 cycles.
(3) With reference to fig. 2, the number of combined cycles established according to the weft rows is 16 × 48 (i.e., 48 — 16 × 3), and the following four steps are performed:
combining with FIG. 3, 3 sets of basic organizations with 16 organization cycle numbers and different starting point positions areA1、A2、A3. In the 16 × 48 combined tissue cycle number, a base tissue in which the lower left corner is a starting point and the fixed starting point is the lower left corner (warp, weft) — (1,1) is a1。
② with reference to FIG. 4, in the combined number of tissue cycles, A is added1The starting point is moved upwards by 16 points along the warp direction, the (warp, weft) ═ 1, 17 points are determined, and the points fall on the weft insertion row according to a preferred formula of the basic organization cycle number of the warp equal float combined structure design, namely weft insertion organization points.
③ in connection with FIG. 5, in the combined number of tissue cycles, A1The starting point is moved up 32 points along the warp direction, the (warp, weft) ═ 1, 33 points are determined, and according to a preferred formula of the basic organization cycle number of the equal warp float length combined structure design, the points fall on the weft-polypropylene row, namely weft-polypropylene organization points.
Fourthly, according to the basic organization A1Flying number in weft direction SwVarious equal warp float length composite structures can be obtained:
when the basic organization A1Flying number S in weft directionwWhen the number is 3, an equal warp float length combined structure is obtained as shown in FIG. 6.
When the basic organization A1Flying number S in weft directionwAt 5, an equal length float composite structure is obtained as shown in FIG. 7.
When the basic organization A1Flying number S in weft directionwAt 7, an equal channel float composite structure is obtained as shown in FIG. 8.
When the basic organization A1Flying number S in weft directionwAt 9, an equal length float composite structure is obtained as shown in fig. 9.
When the basic organization A1Flying number in weft direction SwAt 11, an equal length float composite structure is obtained as shown in FIG. 10.
When the basic organization A1Flying number in weft direction SwAt 13, an equi-length float composite structure is obtained as shown in FIG. 11.
(4) For better application effect, the basic organization of the combination with uniform distribution of the organization points is preferred, as shown in fig. 8 and fig. 9.
(5) When the three groups of basic tissues shown in fig. 8 are selected in the step (4), a three-weft combined full-display structure is designed by a one-weft two-point full-display technical method, as shown in fig. 12, then a warp float length three-weft combined full-display tissue library is completed by a shadow light tissue design, and meanwhile, the longest warp float length of the surface is 13 (namely, R-3 is 16-3) by a warp surface tissue verification, and in the tissues of which the warp cycle number and the weft cycle number of three adjacent tissues are 16, the tissue points are arranged in different orders but have the same tissue point distribution characteristics.
When M selects 4, 5 and 6 … …, the same rule is applied, and the weft number is increased to carry out 4 groups or more than even groups of weft combined full-color jacquard fabrics and 5 groups or more than odd groups of weft combined full-color jacquard fabrics.

Claims (5)

1. A weaving method of a multi-weft combined jacquard fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) determining the number of combined wefts to be M, wherein M is more than or equal to 2, arranging the wefts in a weft-by-weft equal ratio mode, and sequentially naming each weft as a first weft, a second weft, a third weft … … (M-1) and a M weft from bottom to top;
(2) setting the number of basal tissue cycles as R, wherein R is more than or equal to 5, and the following relation exists between R and M:
when R = M n, n is a positive integer, the requirement of the equal length floating combined structure is not satisfied,
when R = M + n +1, n is a positive integer, the requirement of the equal warp float length combined structure is met, and the (1,1+ R) point in the combined structure falls on the weft insertion row, namely the weft insertion structure point,
when R = M + n +2, n is a positive integer, the requirement of the equal warp float length combined structure is met, and the (1,1+ R) point in the combined structure falls on a weft-weft row, namely a weft-weft tissue point,
……，
when R = M + n + (M-1), n is a positive integer, the requirement of the equal warp floating length composite structure is met, and in the composite structure, the (1,1+ R) point falls on the (M-1) weft row, namely the (M-1) weft structure point;
(3) m groups of basic tissues with the same tissue cycle number and flight number but different initial point positions are respectively marked as A1、A2、A3、……AM，The determination of the starting point of each underlying organization is performed in the following manner:
the lower left corner is used as the starting point to fix the basic tissue A1The starting point is (1,1),
in the combined number of tissue cycles, A is added1The starting point is moved upwards by R point along the warp direction, the (1,1+ R) point is determined, the (1,1+ R) point is taken as a fixed point, and the point is equivalent to the basic tissue A1Number of flights supplement A2While determining the position of the starting point of the group of wefts and the position of the weft row,
a is to be1The starting point is moved upwards by 2R points along the warp direction, a (1,1+2R) point is determined, the (1,1+2R) point is taken as a fixed point, and the method is equivalent to the basic tissue A1Number of flights complement a3While determining the position of the starting point of the group of wefts and the position of the weft row,
……，
a is prepared from1The starting point is moved upwards by (M-1) R point along the warp direction, the (1,1+ (M-1) R) point is determined, the (1,1+2R) point is taken as a fixed point, and the point is equivalent to the basic tissue A1Number of flights supplement AMDetermining the position of the starting point of the group of wefts and the position of the weft row;
(4) recording the starting point position of each basic organization, and enabling M groups of basic organizations to be according to A1、A2、A3、……AMThe weft and longitudinal combination is carried out sequentially in an equal ratio, and a multi-weft combined structure chart with equal warp floating length is obtained;
(5) the equal warp float length multi-weft combined structure diagram obtained in the step (4) is used for weaving jacquard fabrics: and (2) forming a single-layer structure by the basic texture through shadow light texture, combining the single-layer structure by a combined full-display method to form a combined structure with equal warp floating length, and matching the weft selection information in the step (1) to form the multi-weft combined jacquard fabric.
2. A method for weaving a multi-weft combination jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the number of combined wefts in the multi-weft combination can be a single-warp odd-number weft combination or a single-warp even-number weft combination.
3. A method for weaving a multi-weft combination jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the step (4), after the basic tissues are combined, in the tissues of which the warp cycle number and the weft cycle number of M adjacent tissues are R, the tissue points are sequenced differently but have the same tissue point distribution characteristics.
4. A method for weaving a multi-weft combination jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the step (4), the warp direction floating length ratios after the basic tissues are combined are equal, and the longest warp direction floating length is R-1.
5. A method for weaving a multi-weft combination jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that in step (5), the combination satisfying the following conditions is involved in the jacquard: when the one-weft two-point full-display technical point is used, the longest warp floating length of the surface generated by the combined full-display structure is R-3.
CN202210537571.3A 2022-05-18 2022-05-18 Multi-weft combined jacquard fabric weaving method Active CN114775140B (en)

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2003089941A (en) * 2001-09-17 2003-03-28 Konishi Kei Shoten:Kk Woven fabric having multiple structure and method for producing the same
US20070263008A1 (en) * 2006-05-11 2007-11-15 Silk Road Holding Group Co., Ltd Method of Fabricating Color Jacquard Fabric
CN102560807A (en) * 2010-12-07 2012-07-11 天津纺织工程研究院有限公司 Manufacturing process of full-digital high-fineness image brocade fabrics
CN102828319A (en) * 2012-09-04 2012-12-19 浙江理工大学 Method for designing structure of double-side colored jacquard fabric
CN112553743A (en) * 2020-11-30 2021-03-26 浙江理工大学 Weaving method of gradual covering jacquard fabric

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2003089941A (en) * 2001-09-17 2003-03-28 Konishi Kei Shoten:Kk Woven fabric having multiple structure and method for producing the same
US20070263008A1 (en) * 2006-05-11 2007-11-15 Silk Road Holding Group Co., Ltd Method of Fabricating Color Jacquard Fabric
CN102560807A (en) * 2010-12-07 2012-07-11 天津纺织工程研究院有限公司 Manufacturing process of full-digital high-fineness image brocade fabrics
CN102828319A (en) * 2012-09-04 2012-12-19 浙江理工大学 Method for designing structure of double-side colored jacquard fabric
CN112553743A (en) * 2020-11-30 2021-03-26 浙江理工大学 Weaving method of gradual covering jacquard fabric

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