CN114668678A - 油包水型乳化化妆品 - Google Patents
油包水型乳化化妆品 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN114668678A CN114668678A CN202111579910.6A CN202111579910A CN114668678A CN 114668678 A CN114668678 A CN 114668678A CN 202111579910 A CN202111579910 A CN 202111579910A CN 114668678 A CN114668678 A CN 114668678A
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- Prior art keywords
- oil
- cosmetic
- water
- mass
- type emulsion
- Prior art date
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 90
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 59
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 29
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 239000006097 ultraviolet radiation absorber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 235000001014 amino acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 22
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 22
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 7
- KWLMIXQRALPRBC-UHFFFAOYSA-L hectorite Chemical compound [Li+].[OH-].[OH-].[Na+].[Mg+2].O1[Si]2([O-])O[Si]1([O-])O[Si]([O-])(O1)O[Si]1([O-])O2 KWLMIXQRALPRBC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 7
- 229910000271 hectorite Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000002734 clay mineral Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000004671 saturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glutamic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCC(O)=O WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- CKLJMWTZIZZHCS-REOHCLBHSA-N L-aspartic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CC(O)=O CKLJMWTZIZZHCS-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- 235000003704 aspartic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- OQFSQFPPLPISGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N beta-carboxyaspartic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(N)C(C(O)=O)C(O)=O OQFSQFPPLPISGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- OGQYPPBGSLZBEG-UHFFFAOYSA-N dimethyl(dioctadecyl)azanium Chemical group CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC OGQYPPBGSLZBEG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000013922 glutamic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004220 glutamic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000003377 silicon compounds Chemical class 0.000 abstract description 7
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- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 34
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 34
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- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 8
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 8
- 150000003961 organosilicon compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 8
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 8
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- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 7
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 7
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 6
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- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 5
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N Sucrose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000006750 UV protection Effects 0.000 description 4
- UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- MMXKVMNBHPAILY-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethyl laurate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC MMXKVMNBHPAILY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(CC)CCCC XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (E)-8-Octadecenoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCC(O)=O WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 9-Heptadecensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 235000021314 Palmitic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229940079784 disodium stearoyl glutamate Drugs 0.000 description 3
- WODOUQLMOIMKAL-FJSYBICCSA-L disodium;(2s)-2-(octadecanoylamino)pentanedioate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@H](C([O-])=O)CCC([O-])=O WODOUQLMOIMKAL-FJSYBICCSA-L 0.000 description 3
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 3
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- XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 3
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- BJDAUCLANVMIOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N (3-decanoyloxy-2,2-dimethylpropyl) decanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)(C)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC BJDAUCLANVMIOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-GSVOUGTGSA-N (R)-(-)-Propylene glycol Chemical class C[C@@H](O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-GSVOUGTGSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- NUHMQHLCUWSBCS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 10-(16-methylheptadecoxy)-10-oxodecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O NUHMQHLCUWSBCS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- DHGBAFGZLVRESL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 14-methylpentadecyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C DHGBAFGZLVRESL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LGEZTMRIZWCDLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 14-methylpentadecyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C LGEZTMRIZWCDLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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Abstract
本发明的目的在于，提供一种油包水型乳化化妆品，其能够在减少了有机硅化合物的配合量的化妆品基剂中高配合紫外线散射剂和颜料。本发明的油包水型乳化化妆品的特征在于，其包含：(A)利用包含氨基酸或其盐的表面处理剂进行了表面处理的颜料、(B)油分、(C)疏水性紫外线散射剂、及(D)油相增稠剂，其中，紫外线吸收剂的配合量相对于化妆品总量小于1质量％，硅油相对于化妆品总量为10质量％以下。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种油包水型乳化化妆品，其能够在减少了有机硅化合物的配合量的化妆品基剂中高配合紫外线散射剂和颜料。
背景技术
硅油等有机硅化合物具有拒水性高、无黏腻而有较轻使用触感、在皮肤上的展开性良好的特征，有使配合其的化妆品的耐水性、使用感及其它配合成分的分散性改善的效果。另外，有机硅化合物也被广泛用作粉末成分的表面处理剂。
有机硅化合物虽然具有上述那样的优点，但是具有其高拒水性导致难以用水洗掉化妆品、清洗性差的问题。另外，有机硅化合物通常并非生物降解性的，因此会在环境中长期积累，担心有污染环境、扰乱生态***的风险。因此，近年来不配合有机硅化合物的被称为“无有机硅”的化妆品备受关注。
但是，若去除了在以往的化妆品中有助于改善粉末等其它配合成分的分散性的有机硅化合物，则产生变得难以维持化妆品的稳定性等的问题。
另一方面，为了保护皮肤免受紫外线的伤害，化妆品中通常会配合紫外线吸收剂及紫外线散射剂。通常，使用有机化合物、例如甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯及奥克立林作为紫外线吸收剂，使用无机粉末成分、例如二氧化钛及氧化锌作为紫外线散射剂。
紫外线吸收剂有透明性高、在皮肤上的展开性良好、不易因为汗而被破坏的优点，但是，由于是将紫外线转化为热能等其它能量来防止紫外线的影响的，因此皮肤敏感的使用者有时会感觉到刺激。因此，需要不使用紫外线吸收剂而是通过紫外线散射剂来获得紫外线防御效果的、无紫外线吸收剂的所谓的“非化学”的化妆品。
例如，专利文献1中提出了一种油包水型乳化化妆品，其通过使用N-酰基氨基酸、而不是使用有机硅化合物作为粉末的表面处理剂，从而改善了清洗性，也记载了不配合紫外线吸收剂的配方例。
但是，专利文献1中记载的化妆品使用有机硅化合物作为粉末的分散介质，不属于无有机硅的化妆品。从专利文献1记载的化妆品中去除有机硅化合物而成的无有机硅的化妆品有在保存过程中粉末发生再聚集的倾向，存在不能得到优异的粉末的分散性的问题。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1：日本特开2018-177736号公报
发明内容
发明要解决的问题
本发明的目的在于，提供一种油包水型乳化基剂，其即使在减少了有机硅化合物的配合量的化妆品基剂中高配合紫外线散射剂和颜料的情况下，经时稳定性及粉末分散性也优异。
用于解决问题的方案
发明人等为了解决上述课题反复进行了深入研究，结果发现，通过利用包含氨基酸或其盐的表面处理剂对配合于油相的颜料进行表面处理、并且配合油相增稠剂，从而即使不配合有机硅化合物也能够在油相中高配合颜料和紫外线散射剂，由此完成了本发明。
即，本发明提供一种油包水型乳化化妆品，其特征在于，其包含：
(A)利用包含氨基酸或其盐的表面处理剂进行了表面处理的颜料、
(B)油分、
(C)疏水性紫外线散射剂、及
(D)油相增稠剂，
其中，
紫外线吸收剂的配合量相对于化妆品总量小于1质量％，
硅油相对于化妆品总量为10质量％以下。
发明的效果
本发明的化妆品通过采取上述构成，从而即使不配合有机硅化合物也能够改善高配合颜料和紫外线散射剂而成的乳化基剂的粉末分散性。因此，能够实现无有机硅的彩妆化妆品。另外，根据本发明，即使不配合紫外线吸收剂，也能够通过高配合的紫外线散射剂得到充分的紫外线防御效果，因此能够实现非化学的化妆品。
具体实施方式
本发明的化妆品的特征在于，包含(A)利用包含氨基酸或其盐的表面处理剂进行了表面处理的颜料、(B)油分、(C)疏水性紫外线散射剂、及(D)油相增稠剂。以下对构成本发明的化妆品的各成分进行详述。
＜(A)颜料＞
本发明的化妆品中配合的(A)颜料(以下有时称为“(A)成分”)是指：利用包含氨基酸或其盐的表面处理剂进行了表面处理的无机颜料。通过使用特定的化合物作为表面处理剂，从而成为粉末分散性优异的化妆品。作为本发明的颜料的表面处理剂，可以仅使用下述的氨基酸或其盐，或者，也可以在下述的氨基酸或其盐的基础上还包含通常作为粉末的表面处理剂使用的其它化合物。
作为颜料的具体例，可列举红色氧化铁(铁丹)、钛酸铁、γ-氧化铁、黄色氧化铁、黄土、黑色氧化铁、炭黑、低价氧化钛、锰紫、钴紫、氧化铬、氢氧化铬、钛酸钴、群青、普鲁士蓝等。其中，作为本发明的颜料，优选使用黄色氧化铁、红色氧化铁、黑色氧化铁等颜料级氧化铁、颜料级氧化钛等。在此，颜料级是指平均粒径为处于100nm～1μm的等级。
就作为(A)成分的表面处理剂使用的“氨基酸”而言，可列举谷氨酸、天冬氨酸及赖氨酸等，优选谷氨酸及天冬氨酸。另外，“氨基酸”可以是在氨基酸的氨基上缩合有酰基、优选碳数12～20的饱和脂肪酸的“被饱和脂肪酸酰基化的氨基酸”。作为“酰基”，可列举硬脂酰基、月桂酰基等。“盐”可以从钠、钾等碱金属盐、碱土金属盐等中选择，优选钠盐。作为酰基化氨基酸的具体例，可列举硬脂酰谷氨酸二钠、月桂酰谷氨酸钠、月桂酰天冬氨酸钠。
作为本发明的(A)成分的表面处理剂，通过在上述“氨基酸或其盐”上进一步加上“酯”，从而能够改善经时稳定性。“酯”为碳数8～12的一元或二元的脂肪酸与碳数12～20的饱和脂肪族醇介由酯键而键合的化合物，上述脂肪酸及脂肪族醇的烷基链可以是直链状也可以是支链状。特别优选使用癸二酸异硬脂酯。
本发明的(A)颜料可以通过按照常规方法使氨基酸或其盐吸附到颜料表面而制备。
作为本发明中使用的(A)颜料的表面处理剂，优选包含选自硬脂酰谷氨酸二钠及月桂酰谷氨酸钠中的氨基酸的表面处理剂，进一步优选包含硬脂酰谷氨酸二钠和癸二酸异硬脂酯的表面处理剂(NHS处理剂)。
作为本发明的(A)颜料，也可以使用市售品，作为优选的市售品，可列举例如NHS-TITAN CR-50、NHS-RED R516PS、NHS-YELLOW LL-100P、NHS-BLACK BL-100P、NHS-MICA M-102、NHS-TALC JA-46R等NHS处理粉体(以上为三好化成工业公司制)等。
本发明的化妆品可以配合一种上述用表面处理剂处理过的颜料，也可以将两种以上组合配合。
(A)颜料的合计配合量只要可得到期望的色彩就没有特别限定，通常相对于化妆品总量为0.1质量％以上，例如为1～20质量％，优选为2～10质量％。若配合量小于1质量％，则得不到充分的色彩，若超过20质量％，则有稳定性变差的倾向。
＜(B)油分＞
本发明的化妆品中配合的(B)油分(以下有时称为“(B)成分”)只要是通常配合于化妆品中的油分就没有特别限定，作为例子，可列举烃油、酯油、碳数12～22的高级醇、碳数12～22的脂肪酸、油脂等。即使是以往认为会降低乳化稳定性的极性油，也能够稳定地配合到本发明的化妆品中。
其中，本发明的化妆品中，硅油的配合量相对于化妆品总量为10质量％以下，优选为5质量％以下，进一步优选为1质量％以下。另外，本发明的化妆品还包括实质上不配合硅油的方式。
作为烃油，可列举例如：液体石蜡、角鲨烷、角鲨烯、姥鲛烷、石蜡、异链烷烃、氢化聚异丁烯、烯烃低聚物、挥发性烃油(例如异十二烷、异十六烷、十一烷、十三烷等)等。
作为酯油，可列举例如：肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、乙基己酸鲸蜡酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、硬脂酸丁酯、月桂酸己酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、油酸癸酯、二甲基辛酸己基癸酯、乳酸鲸蜡酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、异硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、胆甾醇12-羟基硬脂酸酯、乙二醇二2-乙基己酸酯、二季戊四醇脂肪酸酯、N-烷基二醇单异硬脂酸酯、新戊二醇二癸酸酯、苹果酸二异硬脂酯、甘油二2-庚基十一烷酸酯、三羟甲基丙烷三2-乙基己酸酯、三羟甲基丙烷三异硬脂酸酯、甘油三异硬脂酸酯、季戊四醇四乙基己酸酯、三异辛酸甘油酯(甘油三(2-乙基己酸)酯)、2-乙基己酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸2-乙基己酯、三肉豆蔻精、甘油三2-庚基十一烷酸酯、蓖麻油脂肪酸甲酯、油酸油酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、乙酰甘油酯、棕榈酸2-庚基十一烷基酯、己二酸二异丁酯、N-月桂酰-L-谷氨酸-2-辛基十二烷基酯、己二酸二2-庚基十一烷基酯、月桂酸乙酯、癸二酸二2-乙基己酯、肉豆蔻酸2-己基癸酯、棕榈酸2-己基癸酯、己二酸2-己基癸酯、癸二酸二异丙酯、琥珀酸2-乙基己酯、聚丙二醇二特戊酸酯、乙酸乙酯、乙酸丁酯、乙酸戊酯、柠檬酸三乙酯等三酯油等。
作为碳数12～22的高级醇，可列举例如油醇、2-癸基十四醇、十二醇、异硬脂醇、辛基十二醇等。作为碳数12～22的脂肪酸，可列举例如油酸、异硬脂酸、亚油酸、亚麻酸等。
作为油脂，可列举例如可可脂、鳄梨油、山茶籽油、澳洲坚果油、玉米油、橄榄油、菜籽油、芝麻油、杏仁油、小麦胚芽油、落瓣油茶籽油、蓖麻油、亚麻籽油、红花油、棉籽油、紫苏油、大豆油、花生油、茶籽油、椰子油、米糠油、泡桐油、日本桐油、霍霍巴油、胚芽油、三聚甘油、甘油三辛酸酯、甘油三异棕榈酸酯等。
本发明的化妆品中，极性油相对于油分的合计量的比例以质量比计为40％以上时，粉末的分散稳定性改善。因此，本发明的化妆品中，优选将极性油在(B)油分的合计量中所占的比例设为40％以上。
作为极性油，可列举IOB值为0.05～0.80的油分、特别是酯油。作为极性油的具体例，可列举：异硬脂酸、霍霍巴油、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、辛酸鲸蜡酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、硬脂酸丁酯、月桂酸己酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、油酸癸酯、二甲基辛酸己基癸酯、异壬酸异壬酯、乳酸鲸蜡酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、异硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、乙基己酸鲸蜡酯、胆甾醇12-羟基硬脂酸酯、乙二醇二2-乙基己酸酯、二季戊四醇脂肪酸酯、N-烷基二醇单异硬脂酸酯、新戊二醇二癸酸酯、苹果酸二异硬脂酯、甘油二2-庚基十一烷酸酯、三羟甲基丙烷三2-乙基己酸酯、三羟甲基丙烷三异硬脂酸酯、季戊四醇四2-乙基己酸酯、甘油三(2-乙基己酸)酯(三异辛酸甘油酯)、异辛酸鲸蜡酯、2-乙基己酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸2-乙基己酯、C12-15醇苯甲酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、丁二醇二辛酸/二癸酸酯、三肉豆蔻精、甘油三2-庚基十一烷酸酯、蓖麻油脂肪酸甲酯、油酸油酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、乙酰甘油酯、棕榈酸2-庚基十一烷基酯、己二酸二异丁酯、N-月桂酰-L-谷氨酸-2-辛基十二烷基酯、己二酸二2-庚基十一烷基酯、月桂酸乙酯、癸二酸二2-乙基己酯、肉豆蔻酸2-己基癸酯、棕榈酸2-己基癸酯、己二酸2-己基癸酯、癸二酸二异丙酯、琥珀酸二2-乙基己酯、乙酸乙酯、乙酸丁酯、乙酸戊酯、柠檬酸三乙酯、对甲氧基肉桂酸2-乙基己酯、三丙二醇二特戊酸酯、2-氰基-3,3-二苯基丙烯酸2-乙基己酯等。
(B)油分的配合量只要为在油相中配合颜料及紫外线散射剂等粉末时通常使用的量就没有特别限定，例如，相对于化妆品总量优选为5～50质量％。若油分的配合量少于5质量％，则稳定性下降，若超过50质量％，则有稳定性、使用性下降的倾向。
＜(C)疏水性紫外线散射剂＞
本发明的化妆品中配合的(C)疏水性紫外线散射剂(以下有时称为“(C)成分”)可以从化妆品中通常使用的疏水性紫外线散射剂中适宜选择，没有特别限定，是指颗粒表面为疏水性者。作为具体例，可列举金属氧化物，例如氧化钛、氧化锌、氧化铁、氧化铈、氧化钨等。本发明中，优选氧化钛、氧化锌。另外，优选平均粒径为0.1μm以下的细粒。平均粒径的下限没有特别限定，通常为5nm左右。
本发明中使用的紫外线散射剂只要颗粒表面为疏水性则可以为未经表面处理者、实施了疏水化处理者中的任意者。作为疏水化表面处理剂，没有特别限定，可列举有机硅处理剂、氟化合物处理剂、氨基酸处理剂、脂肪酸处理剂、脂肪酸皂处理剂、脂肪酸酯处理剂以及卵磷脂处理剂、烷基磷酸酯处理等。
作为有机硅处理剂，可列举例如：甲基氢聚硅氧烷、二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷等硅油；甲基三甲氧基硅烷、乙基三甲氧基硅烷、己基三甲氧基硅烷、辛基三甲氧基硅烷等烷基硅烷；三氟甲基乙基三甲氧基硅烷、十七氟癸基三甲氧基硅烷等氟烷基硅烷等。作为氟化合物处理剂，可列举例如全氟烷基磷酸酯、全氟醇等。作为氨基酸处理剂，可列举N-酰基谷氨酸、N-酰基天冬氨酸、N-酰基赖氨酸等。作为脂肪酸处理剂，可列举例如棕榈酸、异硬脂酸、硬脂酸、月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、山萮酸、油酸、松香酸、12-羟基硬脂酸等。作为脂肪酸皂处理剂，可列举例如硬脂酸铝、硬脂酸钙、12-羟基硬脂酸铝等。作为脂肪酸酯处理剂，可列举例如糊精脂肪酸酯、胆甾醇脂肪酸酯、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、淀粉脂肪酸酯等。这些疏水化处理可以按照常规方法进行。
根据本发明的化妆品，能够在油相中高配合紫外线散射剂，因此即使不配合紫外线吸收剂也能够实现充分的紫外线防御效果。因此，本发明的化妆品中，紫外线吸收剂的配合量相对于化妆品总量为3质量％以下，优选为1质量％以下。另外，本发明的化妆品还包括实质上不配合紫外线吸收剂的方式。通过采取实质上不配合紫外线吸收剂的方式，可以制成“非化学”的化妆品。
“非化学”化妆品是指：不含有有机紫外线吸收剂、而是含有无机紫外线散射剂，从而发挥针对紫外线的皮肤保护效果的化妆品。
(C)疏水性紫外线散射剂的配合量为足以得到期望的紫外线防御效果的量，没有特别限定，通常相对于化妆品总量为1质量％以上，例如为5～30质量％，优选为10～30质量％。配合量小于5质量％时，难以得到充分的紫外线防御效果，超过30质量％时，有稳定性变差的倾向。在将本发明的化妆品制备为非化学化妆品的情况下，优选将紫外线散射剂的合计含量设为10质量％以上。
＜(D)油相增稠剂＞
本发明的化妆品中配合的(D)油相增稠剂(以下有时称为“(D)成分”)可以从下述物质中适宜选择：通常的在乳化型化妆品等中作为溶解于油分或在油分中溶胀而发挥使油相增稠的效果的成分使用的物质。可列举例如糊精脂肪酸酯、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、固体或半固体的烃油、有机改性粘土矿物、或者脂肪酸或其盐等。
糊精脂肪酸酯为糊精或还原糊精与高级脂肪酸的酯，只要是通常用于化妆品的糊精脂肪酸酯就可以没有特别限制地使用。糊精或还原糊精优选使用平均糖聚合度为3～100者。另外，作为糊精脂肪酸酯的构成脂肪酸，优选使用碳数8～22的饱和脂肪酸。具体而言，可列举糊精棕榈酸酯、糊精油酸酯、糊精硬脂酸酯、糊精肉豆蔻酸酯、糊精棕榈酸酯/2-乙基己酸酯等。
蔗糖脂肪酸酯可以优选使用其脂肪酸为直链状或支链状的、饱和或不饱和的、碳数12～22的蔗糖脂肪酸酯。具体而言，可列举蔗糖辛酸酯、蔗糖癸酸酯、蔗糖月桂酸酯、蔗糖肉豆蔻酸酯、蔗糖棕榈酸酯、蔗糖硬脂酸酯、蔗糖油酸酯、蔗糖芥酸酯等。
固体或半固体的烃油是在常温(25℃)下为固体或半固体的烃，作为具体例，可列举地蜡、白蜡、凡士林、微晶蜡、氢化棕榈油、氢化棕榈仁油、氢化蓖麻油、氢化花生油、氢化菜籽油、氢化山茶油、氢化大豆油、氢化橄榄油、氢化澳洲坚果油、氢化葵花籽油、氢化小麦胚芽油、氢化米胚芽油、氢化米糠油、氢化棉籽油、氢化鳄梨油、蜡类(巴西棕榈蜡、蜂蜡、小烛树蜡、霍霍巴蜡、木蜡等)等。
有机改性粘土矿物是具有三层结构的胶性含水硅酸铝的一种，代表性的是用季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂改性下述通式(I)所示的粘土矿物而得者。
(X，Y)2-3(Si，Al)4O10(OH)2Z1/3·nH2O (I)
(其中，X＝Al、Fe(III)、Mn(III)、Cr(III)、Y＝Mg、Fe(II)、Ni、Zn、Li、Z＝K、Na、Ca)
作为具体例，可列举二硬脂基二甲铵锂蒙脱石(二硬脂二甲铵锂蒙脱石)、二甲基烷基铵锂蒙脱石、苄基二甲基硬脂铵锂蒙脱石、二硬脂基二甲基氯化铵处理硅酸铝镁等。作为市售品，优选BENTONE 27(苄基二甲基硬脂基氯化铵处理锂蒙脱石：Elementis Japan公司制)及BENTONE 38(二硬脂基二甲基氯化铵处理锂蒙脱石：Elementis Japan公司制)。
作为脂肪酸，只要是可以用于化妆品等的脂肪酸就没有特别限定，可以从具有直链状或支链状的饱和或不饱和的烃的脂肪酸中选择。特别是可列举常温下为固体且碳数8～22的高级脂肪酸，例如可列举月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、山萮酸(二十二烷酸)、油酸、异肉豆蔻酸、异棕榈酸等。其中，特别优选使用选自硬脂酸、棕榈酸及山萮酸中的一种或两种以上。作为脂肪酸的盐，可列举钠盐、钙盐、镁盐、铝盐等金属盐。另外，也可以使用脂肪酸的酰胺衍生物、酯衍生物。
作为本发明的(D)油相增稠剂，优选从糊精脂肪酸酯及有机改性粘土矿物中选择，进一步优选从有机改性粘土矿物中选择。
作为本发明的油相增稠剂，也可以配合使用选自上述物质中的一种或两种以上。
(D)油相增稠剂的配合量相对于化妆品总量可以设为0.01～10质量％、优选0.1～5质量％、更优选0.1～2质量％。若配合量小于0.01质量％，则得不到充分的乳化稳定性，即使配合超过10质量％，也有难以得到效果进一步增大的倾向。
根据本发明的化妆品，可以实现不含有机硅化合物的“无有机硅”的化妆品。
本说明书中的“有机硅化合物”是指在分子内具有硅氧烷(-Si-O-Si-)结构的化合物(例如有机硅类及硅氧烷类)及硅烷类(单硅烷、低聚硅烷、聚硅烷及硅烷衍生物、例如烷基硅烷、烷氧基硅烷等)，包括硅油、有机硅弹性体、有机硅系表面活性剂、以及用有机硅化合物进行了表面处理的粉体。需要说明的是，本发明中的“有机硅化合物”不包括二氧化硅(硅石)。
本发明的化妆品通过将用上述特定的表面处理剂处理过的颜料与上述特定的油相增稠剂组合，从而即使作为无有机硅化妆品，粉末的分散性及稳定性也优异。
本发明的化妆品中，除了上述成分以外还可以在不损害本发明的目的·效果的范围内根据需要适宜地配合通常用于化妆品、药品等皮肤外用剂中的其它任意成分。作为其它任意成分，可列举例如上述(A)及(C)成分以外的粉体、表面活性剂、高分子化合物、螯合剂、低级醇、多元醇、pH调节剂、抗氧化剂、香料、防腐剂、杀菌剂、各种药剂等。但是不受这些例示限定。
本发明的化妆品可以按照通常方法来制造，可以制成液状、乳液状、糊状、乳霜状、凝胶状、固体状等剂型。
本发明的化妆品可以作为底妆、粉底、遮瑕膏、腮红、眼影、睫毛膏、眼线、眉笔、遮盖剂(日语：オーバーコート剤)、口红等彩妆化妆品；防晒等护肤品的形式来提供，适合制成彩妆化妆品，特别是底妆、粉底液。
实施例
以下列举实施例来进一步详细说明本发明，但是本发明不因这些例子而受任何限定。只要没有特别声明则配合量以相对于配合该成分的体系的质量％来表示。在具体说明各实施例前，对采用的评价方法进行说明。
1.刚制备后的粉末分散性的评价
制备后立即目视观察试样的外观，基于以下基准对粉末的分散性进行评价。色条越少表示粉末分散得越均匀。
A：完全观察不到色条。
B：稍微观察到色条，但为使用上没问题的程度。
C：清晰地观察到色条。
D：可见色条，无法作为化妆品使用。
2.经时的粉末分散性的评价(滚动试验)
为了进行粉末分散性的经时性评价而进行了滚动试验。具体而言，向圆筒型的容器中填充一半试样，利用滚动试验机(浊川理化工业公司制)在室温下使试样以45rpm旋转运动4小时。
旋转运动后，对于容器中填充的试样，目视观察容器的壁面是否产生了色条，基于以下基准评价粉末的分散性。色条越少表示粉末分散得越均匀。
A：完全观察不到色条。
B：稍微观察到色条，但为使用上没问题的程度。
C：清晰地观察到色条。
D：可见色条，无法作为化妆品使用。
3.经时稳定性的评价
向螺纹管(50ml)中填充试样，在50℃的恒温槽中静置2周。在静置的前后，用旋转式粘度计(Bismetron旋转式粘度计)测定粘度变化，并且进行乳化颗粒、外观的观测，基于以下基准进行评价。
A：粘度没有变化，乳化颗粒/外观没有问题。
B：可见少许的粘度变化、乳化颗粒/外观的变化，但为使用上没问题的程度。
C：可见粘度变化、乳化颗粒/外观的变化。
D：可见粘度变化、乳化颗粒/外观的变化，无法作为化妆品使用。
按照常规方法制备了具有下页的表格所示的组成的油包水型乳化化妆品。对于所制备的试样，按照上述评价方法评价了稳定性及粉末分散性。结果示于表中。
[表1]
*1：NHS-TITAN CR-50(三好化成工业公司制)
*2：NHS-YELLOW LL-100P(三好化成工业公司制)
*3：NHS-RED R516PS(三好化成工业公司制)
*4：ASL-1TiO2 CR-50(大东化成工业公司制)
*5：ASL-YELLOW LL-100P(大东化成工业公司制)
*6：ASL-RED R516P(大东化成工业公司制)
*7：ASI TiO2 CR-50(大东化成工业公司制)
*8：ASI-YELLOW LL-100P(大东化成工业公司制)
*9：ASI-RED R516P(大东化成工业公司制)
*10：NAI-TITAN CR-50(三好化成工业公司制)
*11：NAI-YELLOW LL-100P(三好化成工业公司制)
*12：NAI-RED R516PS(三好化成工业公司制)
*13：LL TiO2 CR-50(大东化成工业公司制)
*14：LL-YELLOW LL-100P(大东化成工业公司制)
*15：LL-RED R516P(大东化成工业公司制)
*16：MI-TITAN CR-50(三好化成工业公司制)
*17：MI-YELLOW LL-100P(三好化成工业公司制)
*18：MI-RED R516PS(三好化成工业公司制)
*19：ST-485SA(Titan Kogyo,Ltd.制)
*20：WSX-MZ-500(TATCA Co.Ltd.制)
如表格所示，未配合本发明的(D)油相增稠剂的比较例1的化妆品的经时的粉末分散性不良。另外，包含用脂肪酸皂处理剂(MI处理)、有机硅处理剂(EP1处理)实施了疏水化处理的颜料的比较例2及3的化妆品在刚制备后就明显可见色条，经时的粉末分散性、稳定性也不良。
另一方面，配合使用包含酰基化氨基酸金属盐和氨基酸的表面处理剂(ASL处理)、包含酰基化氨基酸金属盐和酯金属络合物的表面处理剂(ASI处理)、酰基化氨基酸处理剂(NAI处理、LL处理)实施了疏水化处理的颜料的实施例5～8的化妆品的经时的粉末分散性、稳定性虽然差，但是能够制备粉末充分分散的化妆品。
配合作为本发明的(A)成分的、利用包含用饱和脂肪酸进行了酰基化的氨基酸盐和酯的表面处理剂(NHS处理)实施了疏水化处理的颜料的实施例1～4的化妆品在刚制备后及滚动试验后均未见色条或稍微可见色条，而且经时稳定性也优异。
Claims (7)
1.一种油包水型乳化化妆品，其包含：
(A)利用包含氨基酸或其盐的表面处理剂进行了表面处理的颜料、
(B)油分、
(C)疏水性紫外线散射剂、及
(D)油相增稠剂，
其中，
紫外线吸收剂的配合量相对于化妆品总量小于1质量％，
硅油相对于化妆品总量为10质量％以下。
2.根据权利要求1所述的油包水型乳化化妆品，其中，所述(A)成分的氨基酸为谷氨酸或天冬氨酸。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的油包水型乳化化妆品，其中，所述(A)成分为利用包含用饱和脂肪酸进行了酰基化的氨基酸或其盐及酯的表面处理剂进行了表面处理的颜料。
4.根据权利要求1至3中任一项所述的油包水型乳化化妆品，其中，所述(C)疏水性紫外线散射剂的配合量相对于化妆品总量为10质量％以上。
5.根据权利要求1至4中任一项所述的油包水型乳化化妆品，其中，极性油在所述(B)油分中所占的比例以质量比计占40％以上。
6.根据权利要求1至5中任一项所述的油包水型乳化化妆品，其中，所述(D)油相增稠剂为有机改性粘土矿物。
7.根据权利要求1至5中任一项所述的油包水型乳化化妆品，其中，所述(D)油相增稠剂为二硬脂基二甲铵锂蒙脱石。
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