CN114557906B - 一种保湿抗老化的胶原水光液及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种保湿抗老化的胶原水光液及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114557906B CN114557906B CN202210242012.XA CN202210242012A CN114557906B CN 114557906 B CN114557906 B CN 114557906B CN 202210242012 A CN202210242012 A CN 202210242012A CN 114557906 B CN114557906 B CN 114557906B
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种保湿抗老化的胶原水光液及其制备方法，包括：溶剂、保湿组分、皮肤调理组分与防腐剂；其中，所述保湿组分包括保湿剂与保湿促进剂，所述皮肤调理组分包括多肽与植物提取物。本发明的水光液提高了皮肤的保湿活性，迅速补水，及时锁水，使皮肤长时间保持水润、清爽，防止水分蒸发流失，从而达到长效保湿的效果；提高了抗氧化能力，清除自由基，抑制炎症，对色斑有明显的改善效果，可以增强受损肌肤屏障，复原敏感的区域，改善皮肤质地，加快皮肤新陈代谢，促进胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白合成，修复受损肌肤，改善红肿肌肤，保护细胞避免干燥，稳定皮肤自身水分和脂质屏障。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域，具体涉及一种保湿抗老化的胶原水光液及其制备方法。
背景技术
随着年龄的增长，25岁以后，新陈代谢开始减慢，水分和皮下脂肪减少，弹性纤维逐渐***，皮肤变皱、光泽消退，40岁以后，体内激素平衡失调，角蛋白降低，弹性纤维断裂，皮肤松弛、粗糙、皱纹增多，逐渐进入老化期。皮肤老化是整个机体衰老的突出表现，其中脸部皮肤老化尤为明显，人体内成纤维细胞的数量逐渐减少，其分泌的胶原蛋白和弹力纤维蛋白也因为被氧化逐渐减少、断裂，对表皮的支撑作用就消失，造成不均一的塌陷，真皮层开始变薄，皮肤弹性变差，皱纹也开始逐渐产生。
老化(aging)是生物或物体中的变化随着时间的积累，人类的老化指身体、生理和社会变化的多维过程。人类皮肤是复杂的器官，其延伸遍及整个身体。生活中的阳光、紫外线、空气污染、电磁辐射和烟尘等都会使肌肤的弹性和紧密度变差。工作、生活的压力增加，也会导致皮肤提早松弛，没有弹性，弹性纤维变得松散，水分丢失。同时，随着年龄的增长，皮肤新陈代谢的周期会逐渐加长，从25岁开始，随着皮肤新陈代谢的速度逐渐减缓，皮肤真皮层弹力纤维开始断裂和变形，老化的细胞不断形成并长期停留在表皮上，无法被替换为新生细胞，使皮肤的弹性和水分都不断减少，尔后就开始出现皮肤老化现象。皮肤浅层脂肪也会相应减少，这就相应的引起皮肤弹性差，皮肤表面的油性成分急剧减少而引起了皮肤的干燥，血循环由于胆固醇聚集在小动脉内而减少，体现激素的紊乱导致了老年斑的生成，皮下毛细血管的扩张导致了皮肤呈现粉红色。真皮层的弹性纤维缺乏，也是造成脸上出现严重皱纹的主要原因。
现有技术中，为减缓皮肤的老化，人们有多种技术手段，超声去皱等，然而，普适性的方法并不是对每个人都有效的，盲目的选择不恰当的方案在不同的个体上甚至出现适得其反的作用。此外，这些方案通常治标不治本，只是一时的使得皮肤看起来年青化，未从内在对其进行改善，一段时间后，又将回复老化状态。
保湿成分主要为水溶性保湿剂、油性保湿剂和高分子保湿剂，因油性保湿剂难溶于水，多用在乳液或膏霜剂型中，如凡士林、角鲨烷等；水溶性保湿剂，如甘油、丁二醇等多元醇，因为分子量小，容易被皮肤吸收，常用于基础保湿，但是其不具有长效保湿的功效；而高分子保湿剂，如透明质酸钠，高分子量透明质酸钠主要起保湿效果，低分子量透明质酸钠主要起补水作用，但是分子量越高的透明质酸钠其肤感越黏腻透明质酸钠的分子量越高其肤感越黏腻，若想改善肤感，达到清新自然的效果则需要提高中分子量和寡聚透明质酸钠的量，但是这样会不可避免的增加生产成本。
发明内容
本发明的目的是为了解决现有水光液长效保湿效果差，功能较单一的缺陷而提供一种保湿抗老化的胶原水光液及其制备方法。
为了实现上述目的，本发明采用以下技术方案：
一种保湿抗老化的胶原水光液，按重量份数计包括：溶剂85-90份、保湿组分8.35-13.2598份、皮肤调理组分0.711-1.6991份与防腐剂0.1-0.15份；其中，所述保湿组分包括保湿剂与保湿促进剂，所述皮肤调理组分包括多肽与植物提取物。
在本发明中，本发明中采用多肽用以增加微循环，提高新陈代谢水平，增强生理机能，提高免疫力，调节和平衡内分泌，修复受伤的皮肤组织，溶解老化的角质，恢复肌肤年轻态与抑制发炎及抗过敏；
采用植物提取物来提高抗氧化功效；
采用保湿剂与保湿促进剂的组合来实现补水、锁水的功效，以达到长效保湿的目的。
作为本发明的一种优选方案，所述保湿剂包括透明质酸钠、丁二醇、聚谷氨酸、2,3-丁二醇与β-葡聚糖中的至少两种以上的混合物，所述保湿促进剂包括嗜热菌发酵物、海藻酸钠、壳聚糖与维生素B6。
在本发明中，透明质酸钠与聚谷氨酸无论在低湿度还是高湿度环境下，都具有相同的高保湿性，具有修复表皮、增加表皮含水量的功能，提高角质层水分含量，提高肌肤的屏障功能，防止水分蒸发，具有良好的手感，可在皮肤表面形成一层均匀的薄膜，使皮肤具有良好的柔滑感和湿润感，不收缩、不紧绷，维持面部干爽，通过抑制细胞脂质的过氧化反应，防止皮肤老化，促进弹性细胞生长，减少紫外线对皮肤的伤害，活化表皮细胞，修复光损皮肤，加快皮肤再生，消皱去皱；维生素B6能疏通、收敛、细致毛孔，强韧肌肤屏障，锁水保湿，抵御老化，维持肌肤水润；嗜热菌发酵物具有强大的补水效果，能将养分及水分输送到皮肤内，润泽及修复皮肤，而且嗜热菌发酵物内含有丰富的维他命及矿物质，有助于保持肌肤紧致有弹性，抵抗老化，促进胶原蛋白合成和细胞更新，使用后能在肌肤表面形成一层润滑保护膜，形成防御***，防止细胞水分流失。
作为本发明的一种优选方案，所述皮肤调理组分包括1,2-己二醇、精氨酸、聚山梨醇酯-80、乙基己基甘油、乙酰基六肽-8、氯化钠、磷酸氢二钠、十肽-4、糖蛋白、海藻糖、可溶性胶原、1,2-戊二醇、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸与积雪草提取物的混合物。
在本发明中，本发明的皮肤调理组分能够抑制多巴的自氧化，清除自由基，且能够抑制炎症，对色斑有明显的改善效果，可以增强受损肌肤屏障，复原敏感的区域，改善皮肤质地，加快皮肤新陈代谢，促进胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白合成，修复受损肌肤，改善红肿肌肤，保护细胞避免干燥，稳定皮肤自身水分和脂质屏障；抑制脂质过氧化和炎症反应，重建肌肤水平衡，同时还可以提亮肤色，具有保湿、抗衰老、亮肤和抗敏修复的多重功效。本发明采用多种具有修护肌肤功效的组分，可促进皮肤吸收，能够有效清除自由基，提高抗氧化能力，修护受损肌肤，形成协同增效作用，提高皮肤抗老化能力。
作为本发明的一种优选方案，所述防腐剂为羟苯甲酯、苯氧乙醇、丙二醇中的一种或几种的组合物，所述溶剂为水。
在本发明中，羟苯甲酯等防腐剂能阻止大多数细菌生长，对皮肤无刺激性，安全性高
作为本发明的一种优选方案，所述保湿促进剂的制备方法为：将30-45重量份的嗜热菌发酵物溶解，加入5-8重量份的海藻酸钠与1-2重量份的壳聚糖混合均匀后加入12-15重量份的维生素B6，并在950-1050rpm的转速下均质1-5min，得到保湿促进剂。
在本发明中，在嗜热菌发酵物中加入海藻酸钠与壳聚糖，将嗜热菌发酵物表面形成一层水凝胶，形成缩水凝胶，使得水光液更加服帖，当接触到皮肤后，结构不会被破坏，而且轻轻的附着于皮肤表面，部分凝胶释放保湿因子-维生素B6，维生素B6被皮肤吸收，其余凝胶继续附着于面部表层，形成薄薄的锁水膜，强力保湿，持续释放水分，滋润肌肤；并且锁水凝胶破裂，释放维生素B6时，其外面的水凝胶成分在面部形成锁水层，防止维生素B6流失。
作为本发明的一种优选方案，所述积雪草提取物的制备方法为：将积雪草加入至嗜热栖热菌与双歧杆菌的培养基中，按嗜热栖热菌的发酵工艺培养发酵；发酵得到的发酵液与两倍浓度的积雪草水提取液混合后继续浓缩，得到积雪草提取物。
作为本发明的一种优选方案，积雪草的添加浓度为15-25g/L，浓缩后积雪草提取物中含水率≤5％。
作为本发明的一种优选方案，按重量份数计包括：溶剂89.8009份、保湿组分8.35份、皮肤调理组分1.6991份与防腐剂0.15份。
上述的保湿抗老化的胶原水光液制备方法，包括以下步骤：
1)将溶剂加热至75-85℃，加入保湿剂后在700-800rpm的转速下搅拌15-35min；
2)降温至45℃，加入保湿促进剂、皮肤调理组分与防腐剂，在1200-1500rpm的转速下继续搅拌20-25min，降温至35-40℃后检测合格后出料、灌装。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下有益效果：
1)本发明的水光液提高了皮肤的保湿活性，迅速补水，及时锁水，使皮肤长时间保持水润、清爽，防止水分蒸发流失，从而达到长效保湿的效果；
2)本发明的水光液提高了抗氧化能力，清除自由基，抑制炎症，对色斑有明显的改善效果，可以增强受损肌肤屏障，复原敏感的区域，改善皮肤质地，加快皮肤新陈代谢，促进胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白合成，修复受损肌肤，改善红肿肌肤，保护细胞避免干燥，稳定皮肤自身水分和脂质屏障。
具体实施方式
下面将结合本发明实施例，对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有做出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围。
本发明中所用的原料均可从市场购得。
本发明中，保湿促进剂的制备方法为：将30-45重量份的嗜热菌发酵物溶解，加入5-8重量份的海藻酸钠与1-2重量份的壳聚糖混合均匀后加入12-15重量份的维生素B6，并在950-1050rpm的转速下均质1-5min，得到保湿促进剂。
实施例
按表1的配方，制备保湿抗老化的胶原水光液，制备方法包括
1)将水加热至75-85℃，加入保湿剂后在700-800rpm的转速下搅拌15-35min；
2)降温至45℃，加入保湿促进剂、皮肤调理组分与防腐剂，在1200-1500rpm的转速下继续搅拌20-25min，降温至35-40℃后检测合格后出料、灌装。
表1.保湿抗老化的胶原水光液配方
对比例1，与实施例1的唯一不同是，保湿剂完全使用透明质酸钠。
对比例2，与实施例2的唯一不同是，不使用保湿促进剂。
选取60名35-45岁的使用者，使用实施例1-4制得的保湿抗老化的胶原水光液以及对比例1-2的水光液，每组10名使用者，在使用前皮肤较为松弛，有开裂处；使用2周后皮肤变得紧实，开裂愈合；使用4周后，皮肤弹性增加，开裂消失；使用6周后，皮肤紧实；使用8周后，皮肤紧实，细腻嫩滑。
使用者进行粗糙值(R3)与角密度测试，表2为使用前的数据，表3为使用2周、4周、6周与8周后的测试粗糙值的数据，表4为使用2周、4周、6周与8周后的测试角密度的数据，以下数据为统计平均值。
表2.使用前测试数据
表3.使用后测试粗糙值的数据
表4.使用后测试角密度的数据
由表2-表4可见，本发明的水光液提高了抗氧化能力，清除自由基，抑制炎症，对色斑有明显的改善效果，可以增强受损肌肤屏障，复原敏感的区域，改善皮肤质地，加快皮肤新陈代谢，促进胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白合成，修复受损肌肤，改善红肿肌肤，保护细胞避免干燥，稳定皮肤自身水分和脂质屏障。
使用者每天早晨1点洁肤后使用实施例1-4以及对比例1-2的产品，采用皮肤水分测定仪检测涂抹后1h和8h后的水分含量，结果见表5(表5中每组数值为平均分)。
表5.皮肤水分含量结果
| 涂抹后1h | 涂抹后8h | |
| 实施例1 | 49.98 | 41.99 |
| 实施例2 | 52.63 | 47.76 |
| 实施例3 | 50.03 | 48.96 |
| 实施例4 | 49.85 | 45.91 |
| 对比例1 | 47.61 | 39.68 |
| 对比例2 | 46.97 | 31.13 |
由表5可见，本发明的水光液提高了皮肤的保湿活性，迅速补水，及时锁水，使皮肤长时间保持水润、清爽，防止水分蒸发流失，从而达到长效保湿的效果。
以上所述，仅为本发明的较佳实施例，并非对本发明任何形式上和实质上的限制，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员，在不脱离本发明方法的前提下，还将可以做出若干改进和补充，这些改进和补充也应视为本发明的保护范围。凡熟悉本专业的技术人员，在不脱离本发明的精神和范围的情况下，当可利用以上所揭示的技术内容而做出的些许更动、修饰与演变的等同变化，均为本发明的等效实施例；同时，凡依据本发明的实质技术对上述实施例所作的任何等同变化的更动、修饰与演变，均仍属于本发明的技术方案的范围内。
Claims (7)
1.一种保湿抗老化的胶原水光液，其特征在于，按重量份数计包括：溶剂85-90份、保湿组分8.35-13.2598份、皮肤调理组分0.711-1.6991份与防腐剂0.1-0.15份；其中，所述保湿组分包括保湿剂与保湿促进剂，所述皮肤调理组分包括多肽与植物提取物;所述保湿剂包括透明质酸钠、丁二醇、聚谷氨酸、2,3-丁二醇与β-葡聚糖中的至少两种以上的混合物，所述保湿促进剂包括嗜热菌发酵物、海藻酸钠、壳聚糖与维生素B6;所述皮肤调理组分包括1,2-己二醇、精氨酸、聚山梨醇酯-80、乙基己基甘油、乙酰基六肽-8、氯化钠、磷酸氢二钠、十肽-4、糖蛋白、海藻糖、可溶性胶原、1,2-戊二醇、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸与积雪草提取物的混合物。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种保湿抗老化的胶原水光液，其特征在于，所述防腐剂为羟苯甲酯、苯氧乙醇、丙二醇中的一种或几种的组合物，所述溶剂为水。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种保湿抗老化的胶原水光液，其特征在于，所述保湿促进剂的制备方法为：将30-45重量份的嗜热菌发酵物溶解，加入5-8重量份的海藻酸钠与1-2重量份的壳聚糖混合均匀后加入12-15重量份的维生素B6，并在950-1050rpm的转速下均质1-5min，得到保湿促进剂。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种保湿抗老化的胶原水光液，其特征在于，所述积雪草提取物的制备方法为：将积雪草加入至嗜热栖热菌与双歧杆菌的培养基中，按嗜热栖热菌的发酵工艺培养发酵；发酵得到的发酵液与两倍浓度的积雪草水提取液混合后继续浓缩，得到积雪草提取物。
5.根据权利要求4所述的一种保湿抗老化的胶原水光液，其特征在于，积雪草的添加浓度为15-25g/L，浓缩后积雪草提取物中含水率≤5%。
6.根据权利要求1-5任一项所述的一种保湿抗老化的胶原水光液，其特征在于，按重量份数计包括：溶剂89.8009份、保湿组分8.35份、皮肤调理组分1.6991份与防腐剂0.15份。
7.一种如权利要求1-6任一项所述的保湿抗老化的胶原水光液的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
1）将溶剂加热至75-85℃，加入保湿剂后在700-800rpm的转速下搅拌15-35min；
2）降温至45℃，加入保湿促进剂、皮肤调理组分与防腐剂，在1200-1500rpm的转速下继续搅拌20-25min，降温至35-40℃后检测合格后出料、灌装。
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