CN114469778B - 一种温和快速染发剂及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种温和快速染发剂及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114469778B CN114469778B CN202111674070.1A CN202111674070A CN114469778B CN 114469778 B CN114469778 B CN 114469778B CN 202111674070 A CN202111674070 A CN 202111674070A CN 114469778 B CN114469778 B CN 114469778B
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- mixture
- agent
- mild
- hair dye
- surfactant
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- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 19
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- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- GHMLBKRAJCXXBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N resorcinol Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC(O)=C1 GHMLBKRAJCXXBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- PLIKAWJENQZMHA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-aminophenol Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 PLIKAWJENQZMHA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 12
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- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- CWLKGDAVCFYWJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-aminophenol Chemical compound NC1=CC=CC(O)=C1 CWLKGDAVCFYWJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- CBCKQZAAMUWICA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,4-phenylenediamine Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(N)C=C1 CBCKQZAAMUWICA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 229940113490 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol hydrochloride Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- PBVFDMZFBPZIMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.NC1=CC=C(OCCO)C(N)=C1 PBVFDMZFBPZIMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 6
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Classifications
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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Abstract
本申请涉及染发化妆品技术领域,具体公开了一种温和快速染发剂及其制备方法。其技术要点是:温和快速染发剂包括单独存放、使用时按照体积比1:1进行混合的A剂和B剂,A剂由如下组分组成:阳离子表面活性剂、非离子表面活性剂、阴离子表面活性剂、溶剂、pH调节剂、对苯二胺、间氨基苯酚、间苯二酚、对氨基苯酚、2,4‑二氨基苯氧基乙醇盐酸盐、螯合剂、抗氧化剂、增稠剂、油脂、香精、发用调理剂、水;B剂由如下组分组成:非离子表面活性剂、增稠剂、油脂、过氧化氢、螯合剂、pH调节剂、香精、水。本申请制备的染发剂具有显色快、使用温和,以及调理性好的优点。
Description
技术领域
本申请涉及染发化妆品技术领域,更具体地说,它涉及一种温和快速染发剂及其制备方法。
背景技术
染发剂种类较多,按照固色程度包括暂时性、半永久性和永久性染发剂。永久性染发剂由于其高染色牢度和高染色持久性,适用范围较广。永久性染发剂是一种氧化型染发剂,其通过对苯二胺、间苯二酚等小分子中间体和耦合剂进入到头发皮脂层后,在氧化剂作用下缩合反应生成较大的染料分子,封闭在头发纤维内部的方式,达到改变发色和固色的效果,具有较长的持久性。
染发剂一般包括染发膏A剂和显色剂B剂,两者分开制作并单独存放,使用的时候按照一定比例进行混合并作用于头发。其中A剂中含有大量的电解质,包括染料、抗氧化剂等成分,市场上常用乳化体系来制作A剂。而现有几种的常见乳化体系及其使用缺陷如下:
(1)非离子乳化体系--若体系染料用量高,则耐受性差,难以形成膏体,且稳定性差,容易出现破乳、分层等现象;若体系染料用量少,则上色困难,染色速度慢,染色效果较差。
(2)阴离子+非离子乳化剂体系--该体系含有阴离子表面活性剂,如AES、K12等,均具有较强的去污、脱脂能力,这样会导致调理性差,头发在染色后冲洗不够柔顺,染发后头发易毛躁。
(3)阳离子+非离子乳化剂体系--因含有带有正电荷的阳离子表面活性剂,调理性好但显色较慢,相同的染发时间内想要取得饱满的颜色则需要更多的染料添加量,既提高了成本也增加了致敏几率。
发明内容
为了解决上述技术问题,本申请提供一种高效的乳化体系染发剂,能够在染发时快速上色,上色后的色牢度较高,且乳化体系成分温和,对头发调理性好,使用后头发柔顺不毛躁。
第一方面,本申请提供一种温和快速染发剂,采用如下的技术方案:
一种温和快速染发剂,包括单独存放、使用时按照体积比1:1进行混合的A剂和B剂,所述A剂由如下质量百分比的组分组成:0.5-2%阳离子表面活性剂、0.5-2%非离子表面活性剂、0.1-1%阴离子表面活性剂、1-6%溶剂、0.5-3%pH调节剂、1.5-2.5%对苯二胺、0.1-1%间氨基苯酚、0.1-1%间苯二酚、0.01-0.15%对氨基苯酚、0.01-0.12%2,4-二氨基苯氧基乙醇盐酸盐、0.1-0.5%螯合剂、0.2-1.5%抗氧化剂、0.5-2%增稠剂、0.5-4%油脂、0.1-1%香精、0.1-2%发用调理剂、余量水;
所述B剂由如下质量百分比的组分组成:1-6%非离子表面活性剂、0.5-3%增稠剂、1-3%油脂、10-20%过氧化氢、0.15-1%螯合剂、0.1-0.5%pH调节剂、0.05-0.3%香精、余量水。
通过同时采用非离子表面活性剂、阴离子表面活性剂和阳离子表面活性剂,并合理控制各个表面活性剂的用量,使得染发剂使用温和,染发后发丝柔软不打结,且染发剂显色快,匀染渗透性好,浸润发丝快。
非离子乳化剂体系容易带来乳化效果差的问题,阴离子乳化剂脱脂能力强,会带来调理性差的问题,阳离子乳化剂调理性较好,但是显色较慢,且易导致染料用量较高。本申请将三种乳化剂混合使用,并控制其用量,实践中,不仅不会出现阳离子表面活性剂和阴离子表面活性剂反应沉淀的现象,且能够综合三种乳化剂的优点,得到一种显色快、温和调理性好的染发剂。
优选的,发用调理剂采用聚季铵盐类、硅油类、蛋白类、水溶性油脂、植物提取物等中的一种或多种组成的混合物。
优选的,所述阳离子表面活性剂为十八烷基三甲基氯化铵、十六烷基三甲基氯化铵和二十二烷基三甲基氯化铵中的一种或多种组成的混合物。
优选的,所述非离子表面活性剂为脂肪醇聚醚-n、酯类和甘油单酯中的一种或多种组成的混合物,所述脂肪醇聚醚-n中的脂肪醇为月桂醇、鲸蜡醇、油醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇或硬脂醇,所述n=1-40。
优选的,所述阴离子表面活性剂为烷基磺酸盐、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸钠和十二烷基硫酸钠中的一种或多种组成的混合物。
优选的,所述溶剂为乙醇、异丙醇、甘油、丙二醇、乙二醇和聚乙二醇中的一种或多种组成的混合物,所述油脂为棕榈酸异辛酯、棕榈酸异丙酯和矿油中的一种或多种组成的混合物。
优选的,所述pH调节剂为氢氧化铵、单乙醇胺中的一种或两种组成的混合物。
上述pH调节剂具体选用的原料均为常规市售,价廉易得,其中B剂中pH调节剂可调节B剂呈酸性,以提高B剂的储存期。
优选的,所述螯合剂为EDTA-二钠、喷替酸五钠、羟乙二磷酸、焦磷酸四钠和磷酸氢二钠中的一种或多种组成的混合物。
螯合剂起到捕捉染发剂中金属离子的作用,可避免少量游离的金属离子对染色效果产生影响,造成颜色偏差。
优选的,所述抗氧化剂为亚硫酸钠、焦亚硫酸钠、抗坏血酸及其盐和异抗坏血酸及其盐中的一种或多种组成的混合物。
异抗坏血酸、异抗环血酸钠与亚硫酸钠进行搭配使用,一方面可防止染料中间体自身发生氧化,另一方面可防止因氧化速度过快而引发染发不均匀或降低染发效果,能够保证染料中间体在发内充分扩散后再发生氧化。
优选的,所述增稠剂为脂肪醇、羟乙基纤维素中的一种或两种组成的混合物。
增稠剂主要起到调节染发剂的黏稠性,使得A剂和B剂能够混合均匀,方便使用。
第二方面,本申请提供一种温和快速染发剂的制备方法,采用如下的技术方案:一种温和快速染发剂的制备方法,所述A剂由如下步骤制备得到:
A1,将水、螯合剂和阴离子表面活性剂混合后,升温,然后加入对苯二胺、间氨基苯酚、间苯二酚、对氨基苯酚、2,4-二氨基苯氧基乙醇盐酸盐、抗氧化剂、溶剂,搅拌溶解,得到混合物a1;
A2,将阳离子表面活性剂、非离子表面活性剂、增稠剂、油脂、发用调理剂混合后,升温,得到混合物a2;
A3,将混合物a1与混合物a2混合,均质5-10min后,开启真空,继续搅拌15-25min,冷却;
A4,冷却至45℃以下,依次加入香精、pH调节剂,均质3-5min,冷却至30℃以下,检测合格后出料;
所述B剂由如下步骤制备得到:
B1,将非离子表面活性剂、增稠剂、油脂混合后,升温,得到混合物b1;
B2,将加热后的水和混合物b1混合,均质5-10min后,开启真空,继续搅拌15-25min,冷却;
B3,冷却至45℃以下,依次加入螯合剂、过氧化氢、香精、pH调节剂,均质3-5min,冷却至30℃以下,检测合格后出料。
在本申请具体的配方体系基础上,避免将阴、阳离子表面活性剂放在同一相别,具体操作为:将阴离子表面活性剂放在水相,将阳离子表面活性剂放在油相;或者阳离子表面活性剂溶于水相,阴离子表面活性剂用部分水溶解,待乳化冷却成膏后低温添加。即乳化时,阴、阳离子表面活性剂不同时置于水相,以避免阴、阳离子表活发生反应而沉淀。
综上所述,本申请具有以下有益效果:
(1)本申请将三种乳化剂混合使用,并控制其用量,实践中,不仅不会出现阳离子表面活性剂和阴离子表面活性剂反应沉淀的现象,且能够综合三种乳化剂的优点,得到一种显色快、温和调理性好的染发剂;
(2)本申请在制备染发剂时,保证阴、阳离子表面活性剂不同时置于水相中,避免了两者反应发生沉淀的现象,保证了最终制备的A、B剂具有较高的储存稳定性和乳化分散性。
具体实施方式
下面实施例对本申请作进一步详细说明。
本申请各实施例和对比例中所用部分原料来源如下表,其他常规原料则为普通市售购得。其中各实施例与对比例中所用发用调理剂中,蚕丝提取物为粉末状,其他组分均为液态
部分原料来源
原料名称 | 货号/牌号 | 厂家名称 |
当归提取物 | 当归提取物 | 湖州湖星日化有限公司 |
何首乌提取物 | 何首乌提取物 | 湖州湖星日化有限公司 |
人参提取物 | 人参提取物 | 湖州湖星日化有限公司 |
金叉石斛茎提取物 | 金叉石斛茎提取物 | 湖州湖星日化有限公司 |
银杏提取物 | 银杏提取物 | 湖州湖星日化有限公司 |
荔枝果提取物 | 荔枝果提取物 | 湖州湖星日化有限公司 |
枸杞果提取物 | 枸杞果提取物 | 湖州湖星日化有限公司 |
昆布提取物 | 昆布提取物 | 湖州湖星日化有限公司 |
无患子果提取物 | 无患子果提取物 | 湖州湖星日化有限公司 |
五倍子提取物 | 五倍子提取物 | 湖州湖星日化有限公司 |
蚕丝提取物 | 蚕丝粉 | 西安嘉和生物技术有限公司 |
水解小麦蛋白 | 水解小麦蛋白 | 湖州湖星日化有限公司 |
油橄榄果油 | 橄榄油 | 上海贤恩科贸有限公司 |
香精 | ZHT96071802 | 广州丽华香精 |
实施例
实施例1
一种温和快速染发剂,包括单独存放、使用时按照体积比1:1进行混合的A剂和B剂,A剂与B剂中各组分及其相应的质量分别如表1、表2所示。其中A剂由如下步骤制备获得:
A1,按照表1中原料配比,将水、螯合剂和阴离子表面活性剂加入水锅,加热到75℃,然后加入对苯二胺、间氨基苯酚、间苯二酚、对氨基苯酚、2,4-二氨基苯氧基乙醇盐酸盐、抗氧化剂、溶剂,20r/min搅拌混合5min,得到混合物a1;
A2,将阳离子表面活性剂、非离子表面活性剂、增稠剂、油脂、发用调理剂加入油锅,加热至75℃,20r/min搅拌混合5min,得到混合物a2;
A3,泵吸30%混合物a1至乳化锅中,再泵吸混合物a2至乳化锅中,15r/min搅拌8min,过程中持续泵吸入混合物a1余料,保温70℃,保持真空-1.5MPa,继续搅拌20min,冷却;
A4,冷却至45℃以下,依次加入香精、pH调节剂,15r/min搅拌5min,冷却至30℃以下,检测合格后出料。
其中B剂由如下步骤制备得到:
B1,将非离子表面活性剂、增稠剂、油脂加入至油锅,加热至75℃,得到混合物b1;
B2,将水加入至水锅,加热至75℃,泵吸30%的水至乳化锅中,再泵吸混合物b1至乳化锅中,15r/min下搅拌10min,保温70℃,保持真空-1.5MPa,继续搅拌20min,冷却;
B3,冷却至45℃以下,依次加入螯合剂、过氧化氢、香精、pH调节剂,15r/min下搅拌5min,冷却至30℃以下,检测合格后出料。
本实施例的A剂、B剂中:
阳离子表面活性剂采用十八烷基三甲基氯化铵;非离子表面活性剂采用月桂醇聚醚-4;阴离子表面活性剂采用烷基磺酸钠;溶剂采用甘油;pH调节剂采用氢氧化铵;螯合剂采用EDTA-二钠;抗氧化剂采用亚硫酸钠;增稠剂采用羟乙基纤维素;油脂采用棕榈酸异辛酯;发用调理剂采用当归根提取物、何首乌根提取物、人参根提取物、金叉石斛茎提取物、银杏叶提取物、荔枝果提取物、枸杞果提取物、昆布提取物、无患子果提取物、五倍子提取物、蚕丝提取物、水解小麦蛋白和油橄榄果油,上述各组分质量比为1:1:1:1:1:1:1:1:1:1:1:1:1。
实施例2-5
一种温和快速染发剂,与实施例1的不同之处在于,A剂与B剂中各组分及其相应的质量分别如表1、表2所示。
表1实施例1-5中A剂各组分及其质量(kg)
表2实施例1-5中B剂各组分及其质量(kg)
实施例6
一种温和快速染发剂,制备步骤和组分用量与实施例1相同,与实施例1的不同之处在于,本实施例的A剂、B剂中:
阳离子表面活性剂采用质量比为1:2的十八烷基三甲基氯化铵和十六烷基三甲基氯化铵组成的混合物;非离子表面活性剂采用质量比为1:1的月桂醇聚醚-4和甘油单油酸酯组成的混合物;阴离子表面活性剂采用质量比为1:1的烷基磺酸钠和脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸钠组成的混合物;pH调节剂采用单乙醇胺;螯合剂采用喷替酸五钠;抗氧化剂采用抗坏血酸;增稠剂采用十六醇。
对比例
对比例1
一种染发剂,与实施例1的不同之处在于,A剂中,采用等质量的非离子表面活性剂替代阴离子表面活性剂和阳离子表面活性剂。
对比例2
一种染发剂,与实施例1的不同之处在于,A剂中,采用等质量的阴离子表面活性剂替代阳离子表面活性剂。
对比例3
一种染发剂,与实施例1的不同之处在于,A剂中,采用等质量的阳离子表面活性剂替代阴离子表面活性剂。
对比例4
一种染发剂,与实施例1的不同之处在于,A剂中,采用阳离子表面活性剂和阴离子表面活性剂替代非离子表面活性剂,且阳离子表面活性剂与阴离子表面活性剂的质量比为1:1。
性能检测试验
测试方法:
耐清洗牢度:采用普通市售的洗发水,将完全染黑后的白发进行清洗/吹干,循环15次后,观察清洗后发束的色度,并将色度划分为1-5级,等级越高,则颜色越深,染后色牢度越高。
耐漂洗牢度:采用普通市售的愈美漂粉和6度双氧奶,二者按照体积比1:1混合后,均匀涂抹于同时段染发后的发束,5min后清洗干净并吹干,观察漂洗后发束的色度,并将色度划分为1-5级,等级越高,则颜色越深,染后色牢度越高。
上色时间:染后色牢度达到最高级别时所需要的时间。
感官评价:选取100位志愿者,随机分为10组并分别使用实施例1-6和对比例1-4中的染发剂,并根据自己的使用感觉进行评分,评价内容包括:顺滑度、柔软度、光泽度、滋润度;评价标准:10分制,分数越高,效果越好。计算出平均分作为最终的整体评分。
稳定性:制备后灌装,静置30天后观察破乳和分层情况。
对实施例1-6和对比例1-4中的产品分别进行测试,测试结果计入下表3中。
表3测试结果
从表3中测试结果可以看出,实施例1-6制备的染发剂,上色时间≤10min,相较于市面上普通染色剂需要至少25-35min的上色时间,本申请制备的染色剂上色速度快。而染色后耐清洗牢度和耐漂洗牢度均为5级,色牢度高,且在制备完成后静置30天均未出现破乳、分层现象,储存稳定性良好,其中实施例实施例3为最优实施例。
从对比例1-4的测试结果可以看出,其中对比例1为非离子乳化剂体系,制备得到的染色剂,染色后耐清洗牢度和耐漂洗牢度均为2级,色牢度较差,上色时间为25min,上色速度慢,且静置30天后有破乳、分层现象,储存稳定性较差。对比例2为阴离子+非离子乳化剂体系,制备得到的染色剂,虽然上色时间为10min,但是感官评价较差,染发后易出现吗,头发毛躁、分叉现象,这是由于阴离子表面活性剂具有较强的脱脂作用,调理性较差。对比例3为阳离子+非离子乳化剂体系,制备得到的染色剂,染后色牢度仅为1级,上色时间为23min,感官评价为5.8分,且静置30天后破乳、分层现象较为严重,且有沉淀现象,这是由于阳离子表面活性剂与阴离子表面活性剂用量较多,即使制备时没有置于同一相别,两者还是易产生相互作用,导致染发剂整体品质较差。
以上所述仅是本申请的优选实施方式,本申请的保护范围并不仅局限于上述实施例,凡属于本申请思路下的技术方案均属于本申请的保护范围。应当指出,对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说,在不脱离本申请原理前提下的若干改进和润饰,这些改进和润饰也应视为本申请的保护范围。
Claims (7)
1.一种温和快速染发剂,包括单独存放、使用时按照体积比1:1进行混合的A剂和B剂,其特征在于,所述A剂由如下质量百分比的组分组成:0.5-2%阳离子表面活性剂、0.5-2%非离子表面活性剂、0.1-1%阴离子表面活性剂、1-6%溶剂、0.5-3%pH调节剂、1.5-2.5%对苯二胺、0.1-1%间氨基苯酚、0.1-1%间苯二酚、0.01-0.15%对氨基苯酚、0.01-0.12%2,4-二氨基苯氧基乙醇盐酸盐、0.1-0.5%螯合剂、0.2-1.5%抗氧化剂、0.5-2%增稠剂、0.5-4%油脂、0.1-1%香精、0.1-2%发用调理剂、余量水;
所述B剂由如下质量百分比的组分组成:1-6%非离子表面活性剂、0.5-3%增稠剂、1-3%油脂、10-20%过氧化氢、0.15-1%螯合剂、0.1-0.5%pH调节剂、0.05-0.3%香精、余量水;
所述阳离子表面活性剂为十八烷基三甲基氯化铵、十六烷基三甲基氯化铵和二十二烷基三甲基氯化铵中的一种或多种组成的混合物;
所述非离子表面活性剂为脂肪醇聚醚-n、甘油单酯中的一种或两种组成的混合物,所述脂肪醇聚醚-n中的脂肪醇为月桂醇、鲸蜡醇、油醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇或硬脂醇,所述n=1-40;
所述阴离子表面活性剂为烷基磺酸盐、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸钠和十二烷基硫酸钠中的一种或多种组成的混合物。
2.根据权利要求1所述的温和快速染发剂,其特征在于,所述溶剂为乙醇、异丙醇、甘油、丙二醇、乙二醇和聚乙二醇中的一种或多种组成的混合物,所述油脂为棕榈酸异辛酯、棕榈酸异丙酯和矿油中的一种或多种组成的混合物。
3.根据权利要求1所述的温和快速染发剂,其特征在于,所述pH调节剂为氢氧化铵、单乙醇胺中的一种或两种组成的混合物。
4.根据权利要求1所述的温和快速染发剂,其特征在于,所述螯合剂为EDTA-二钠、喷替酸五钠、羟乙二磷酸、焦磷酸四钠和磷酸氢二钠中的一种或多种组成的混合物。
5.根据权利要求1所述的温和快速染发剂,其特征在于,所述抗氧化剂为亚硫酸钠、焦亚硫酸钠、抗坏血酸及其盐和异抗坏血酸及其盐中的一种或多种组成的混合物。
6.根据权利要求1所述的温和快速染发剂,其特征在于,所述增稠剂为脂肪醇、羟乙基纤维素中的一种或两种组成的混合物。
7.权利要求1-6任一所述的温和快速染发剂的制备方法,其特征在于,所述A剂由如下步骤制备得到:
A1,将水、螯合剂和阴离子表面活性剂混合后,升温,然后加入对苯二胺、间氨基苯酚、间苯二酚、对氨基苯酚、2,4-二氨基苯氧基乙醇盐酸盐、抗氧化剂、溶剂,搅拌溶解,得到混合物a1;
A2,将阳离子表面活性剂、非离子表面活性剂、增稠剂、油脂、发用调理剂混合后,升温,得到混合物a2;
A3,将混合物a1与混合物a2混合,均质5-10min后,开启真空,继续搅拌15-25min,冷却;
A4,冷却至45℃以下,依次加入香精、pH调节剂,均质3-5min,冷却至30℃以下,检测合格后出料;
所述B剂由如下步骤制备得到:
B1,将非离子表面活性剂、增稠剂、油脂混合后,升温,得到混合物b1;
B2,将加热后的水和混合物b1混合,均质5-10min后,开启真空,继续搅拌15-25min,冷却;
B3,冷却至45℃以下,依次加入螯合剂、过氧化氢、香精、pH调节剂,均质3-5min,冷却至30℃以下,检测合格后出料。
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