CN113882063B - Method for making full Mao Duanshun fabric by using combed short hair - Google Patents
Method for making full Mao Duanshun fabric by using combed short hair Download PDFInfo
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- CN113882063B CN113882063B CN202111252455.9A CN202111252455A CN113882063B CN 113882063 B CN113882063 B CN 113882063B CN 202111252455 A CN202111252455 A CN 202111252455A CN 113882063 B CN113882063 B CN 113882063B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/04—Carbonising or oxidising
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
- D06M11/55—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with sulfur trioxide; with sulfuric acid or thiosulfuric acid or their salts
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
- D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
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Abstract
The invention discloses a production process of combed short wool fabric Mao Duanshun. Preparing combed staple yarn from combed staple, washed staple and auxiliary fiber by weeding, staple and carding, drawing, air spinning, ply-steaming, and then passing the combed staple yarn through: weaving design and weaving: the weaving structure is a single-sided or double-sided structure of 2/1, 2/2 and 1/3, and the combed short yarn is used as warp and weft to weave to obtain grey cloth; carbonizing grey cloth: immersing the grey cloth in sulfuric acid, taking out the grey cloth, and baking and carbonizing the grey cloth to obtain a woolen blank; dyeing and finishing: sequentially carrying out the steps of: neutralizing, washing, shrinking woolen cloth, air washing, piece dyeing, wet fluffing, thorn and drawing, wet brushing, softening, drying, ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming and preshrinking to obtain the full Mao Duan smooth fabric. The invention changes the combed short hair into valuable, and the production of the full Mao Duan smooth fabric can save the raw material cost by more than 30% and has considerable economic benefit.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of full-wool fabric production, in particular to a method for producing full Mao Duanshun fabric by using combed short wool.
Background
At present, the full-wool fabric in the market adopts normal wool production, the wool price always shows a trend of continuous rising due to limited wool resources, the production cost of the conventional production process is high, and the price of the high-grade full-wool fabric exceeds the consumption capability of common consumers. The combed short hair, also called as combed short hair, is short hair combed from a combing machine in the wool top manufacturing process, is leftovers generated in the wool top manufacturing process, has a short length, has an average length of about 16 mm, and contains a plurality of defects such as grass thorns, impurities, wool grains and the like. A large number of combed short hairs are produced by the strip making enterprises in China every year, and most of the combed short hairs can only be used for felting or flocculus with low added value, and the resource value is not effectively developed. The reason for this is that the yarn is difficult to spin by the conventional spinning method because of short and many combed staple fibers and poor spinnability, and even if the yarn is spun, the yarn cannot be normally woven because the combed staple fibers in the yarn are too short and the weaving broken ends are heavy. In addition, weeds in the combed short hair not only affect normal spinning, but also seriously affect product quality, if the combed short hair fibers are carbonized, the fibers are further damaged, and carbonized combed short hair felts are contracted into small balls, so that spinning difficulty is further increased, and therefore the combed short hair is difficult to be used for full-hair fabrics with high added value, and a feasible production process is always lacking when the high-proportion combed short hair is used for the full-hair fabrics.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the prior art, the invention aims to provide a spinning fabric and a post-finishing process for producing full-wool fabric by combing short wool in a high proportion.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
in a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a combed staple yarn comprising the following raw materials:
combed short hair, cleaning hair and auxiliary fiber, wherein the mass ratio of the combed short hair to the cleaning hair is (55-75): (25-45), wherein the dosage of the auxiliary fibers accounts for 5-15% of the total weight of the combed short hair and the washed hair;
preferably, the fineness of the combed short hair is 18.5+/-2 mu m, and the fineness of the washed hair is 19-22 mu m; the auxiliary fibers are selected from viscose fibers, cotton fibers, modal fibers, tencel fibers or bamboo fibers, and the specification of the auxiliary fibers is 1.5 D.38 mm. The combed hair is uncarbonated combed hair.
Preferably, the combed staple yarn is prepared by the following method:
weeding, carding, drawing, air spinning, stranding and yarn steaming;
when the wool is blended, the combed short wool and the washed wool are mixed for 2 times, 0.5 weight percent of the blending oil is added for 2 times, the wool is closed for 8 hours, and then the mixture is mixed with the auxiliary fibers.
Preferably, the moisture regain after the hair is regulated to 16% +/-2%;
the weight of the carded sliver is 4g/m;
drawing for 3 times, wherein the weight of the drawn sliver is 4g/m;
the yarn count obtained by air spinning is 12.7-14.5 counts, Z twist direction and twist level is 580 twists/m;
the yarn count after stranding is 12.7/2-14.5/2 public count, S twist direction, twist 360 turns/m;
the yarn steaming temperature is 90+/-5 ℃, and the heat preservation time is 50+/-5 min.
In a second aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of making a full Mao Duanshun fabric from combed staple yarns, comprising the steps of:
(1) Weaving design and weaving: the weaving structure is a single-sided or double-sided structure of 2/1, 2/2 and 1/3, and the combed short yarn is used as warp and weft to weave to obtain grey cloth;
(2) Carbonizing grey cloth: immersing the grey cloth obtained in the step (1) in sulfuric acid, taking out the grey cloth, and baking and carbonizing the grey cloth to obtain a woolen blank;
(3) Dyeing and finishing: sequentially carrying out the steps of (2) on the woolen blanks: neutralizing, washing, shrinking woolen cloth, air washing, piece dyeing, wet fluffing, thorn and drawing, wet brushing, softening, drying, ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming and preshrinking to obtain the full Mao Duan smooth fabric.
Preferably, in step (1), 0.1wt% of liquid wax and 0.1wt% of antistatic agent are added to the warp yarn during warping; the filling rate of the loom is 80%.
Preferably, in the step (2), the concentration of the sulfuric acid is 4-5 wt%; after the grey cloth is taken out, the grey cloth is extruded to ensure that the content of sulfuric acid in the grey cloth accounts for 50 to 60 percent of the quality of the grey cloth; the baking and carbonizing temperature is 120+/-5 ℃.
Preferably, the yarn count of the combed staple yarn in the carbonized woolen yarn blank is 14/2-16/2 public count.
Preferably, in the step (3), na2CO3 is used for neutralization, and the pH value of the neutralized woolen blank is 6.5+/-0.5.
Preferably, the woolen blank is sewn and then is contracted, the contraction pressure is 0.2kg, the contraction opening is 12cm, the contraction time is 60 minutes/50 meters, the temperature is 40+/-2 ℃, and the width is 152cm;
preferably, the speed of the air washing is 1000m/min and the time is 25-35 min.
Preferably, in the step (3), the wet napping is to nap a wet woolen blank by using a steel wire, and the napping speed is 8+/-2 m/min; the speed of the needle roller is 30-35 r/min, and the speed of the needle roller is 29-34 r/min;
preferably, the cloth speed of the thorn is 8+/-2 m/min, and the thorn is carried out for 11 times;
preferably, the wet brush is a wet brush, coiled and shaped, the steel brush and the palm brush are all used, and the shaping time is 24 hours;
preferably, the softening requires the addition of 3wt% of a softening agent;
preferably, the temperature of the drying is 115+/-5 ℃;
preferably, the scalding temperature is 220+/-2 ℃;
preferably, the length of the shearing is 2mm.
Preferably, in the step (3), the cloth speed of continuous steaming is 10+/-2 m/min;
preferably, the pressure in the tank is 1.5kg, the tank steaming time is 3min, the Bao Buzhang force is 150+/-20 kg, the pressure of the pressing rod is 50+/-10 kg, and the temperature in the tank is 120+/-10 ℃;
preferably, the preshrinking speed is 10m/min, the steam pressure is 4kg or more, the temperature of the hot air shaping box is 105-110 ℃, and the overfeeding is 3%.
In a third aspect of the present invention, a full Mao Duan cis-facing fabric prepared by the method is provided.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
the invention solves the problems of more short hair weeds and short fibers in the combed leftovers, solves the problems that the high-proportion combed short hair cannot be normally spun, cannot be normally woven and cannot be made into the full Mao Duanshun fabric, and the combed leftovers are made into the high-grade Quan Maoduan smooth woolen fabric with plump handfeel, elasticity, smooth suede, soft luster and stable size, saves wool resources, reduces production cost and has considerable economic and social benefits.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a process flow diagram of the present invention.
Detailed Description
It should be noted that the following detailed description is illustrative and is intended to provide further explanation of the present application. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this application belongs.
As described in the background art, in order to solve the problems of more combed short hair weeds, short fibers, incapability of normal spinning and incapability of normal weaving, the full Mao Duanshun woolen fabric with full and elastic handfeel, smooth suede, soft luster and stable size is prepared. Based on the above, the invention provides a production process of combed short wool fabric Mao Duanshun.
Firstly, the invention provides a process method for combing short wool yarns, which comprises the steps of combing the short wool yarns by 65% +/-10%, cleaning the short wool yarns by 35% +/-10% (normal wool), and adding carbonizable auxiliary fibers by 10% +/-5%. Firstly weeding is carried out, heavier dust and big grass in the combed short hair are removed, but part of short weeds still exist in the combed short hair and cannot be removed, and the part of weeds are woven into combed short hair yarns along with the combed short hair and then woven into grey cloth. The combed short hair after weeding passes through the mixed hair, is mixed with the washed hair and the auxiliary fiber in sequence, and then is subjected to carding, drawing, air spinning, stranding and yarn steaming to obtain the combed short hair yarn, wherein the yarn count of the yarn is 12.7/2-14.5/2 public count.
Secondly, the invention provides a method for preparing the full Mao Duanshun fabric by using the combed staple yarns. Firstly, knitting combed short yarn into grey cloth, carbonizing weeds and auxiliary fibers in the grey cloth through the grey cloth, thinning the combed short yarn at the moment, changing the yarn count into 14/2-16/2 public count, and according to the design of the filling rate of an upper machine, although the yarn is thinned, the whole performance and the attractiveness of the fabric are not affected. The weeds and the auxiliary fibers become ashes after carbonization and are mixed in the carbonized woolen blanks. Then, completely removing carbonized ashes in the woolen blank through shrinking and air current washing; when the woolen is shrunk, part of ash is removed by continuously extruding the woolen blank. The non-removed ashes are washed by air flow in the dyeing and finishing process, the raw material is continuously impacted on a baffle plate, the residual carbonized ashes in the raw material are removed from the raw material by quick impact and washing, and the shrinking agent used in the previous process of shrinking the raw material is removed. Because the combed short hair occupies a large area in the yarn, the yarn is easy to break during spinning, and the addition of the fiber with high strength and good toughness is beneficial to spinning the combed short hair into the yarn. The invention selects cotton, regenerated cellulose fiber viscose, modal and other fibers, under the addition of the invention, the strength of the fibers can assist in combing the short wool to spin into yarn, and the short wool can be carbonized by sulfuric acid solution in the later period, while the wool belongs to animal fibers, is acid-resistant, and can not be carbonized in sulfuric acid solution, and the auxiliary fibers are removed by carbonization. And finally, dyeing and finishing processes of neutralization washing, wool shrinking, air current washing, piece dyeing, wet fluffing, thorn and drawing, wet brushing, softening, drying, ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming and preshrinking are sequentially carried out, so that the wool base is finished into the full Mao Duan smooth fabric which is prepared by the normal wool and has various properties such as hand feeling, luster and the like.
In order to enable those skilled in the art to more clearly understand the technical solutions of the present application, the technical solutions of the present application will be described in detail below with reference to specific embodiments.
The test materials used in the examples of the present invention are all conventional in the art and are commercially available.
Description: the air washing in the invention adopts a multifunctional fulling soft finishing machine (CM 101-350), which is self-made by Shandong Kangping Nap group Co., ltd, and applies for patent application No. 201010140295.4.
Example 1
S01, selecting raw materials: 70wt% of uncarbonated combed short hair of 18.5 mu m, 30wt% of washed hair of 21 mu m, and viscose fiber with the specification of 1.5D 38mm, wherein the viscose fiber accounts for 10wt% of the combed short hair and washed Mao Zongchong.
S02, spinning:
weeding: the heavier dust and grass in the combed short hair are removed by the action of the weeder.
And hair: mixing combed short wool and cashmere for 2 times, adding 0.5wt% of crude oil and 0.5wt% of cohesion agent for 2 times, and sealing wool in a wool blending bin for 8 hours, uniformly mixing wool and viscose fiber for 2 times for 1 time, packaging, and controlling the post Mao Huichao rate at 16%.
Carding: workshop temperature 26 ℃, humidity 75%, carding tin Lin Zhuaisu 320 rpm, licker-in rotating speed 17 rpm, 1000 doffers, cylinder cover 5 point gauge (mm) is: 0.33, 0.3, 0.28, 0.3, the weight of the discharged strip is 4g/m.
Drawing: drawing 3 times using a drawing frame with autoleveling, and drawing a 4g/m weight.
Air spinning: workshop temperature 26 ℃ and humidity 65%; the diameter of the rotor is 50 mm/rotation, the cup speed is 3900 rotation/min, the carding roller is 8000 rotation/min, the impurity discharging holes of the rotor are enlarged, the spinning count is 12.7 counts, the Z twisting direction is that the twisting degree is 580 twists/m.
Stranding: after doubling by a doubling machine, twisting by a two-for-one twister, wherein the number of the folded yarns is 12.7/2 metric, the S twisting direction and the twist degree is 360 twists/m.
Steaming yarn: yarn steaming temperature is 90 ℃, and heat preservation time is 50min; and then cooling and discharging.
S03, designing and weaving: the weaving structure is a single-sided structure of 2/1, the warp and weft are both spun yarns prepared by S02 with a public count of 12.7/2, and 0.1 weight percent of liquid wax and 0.1 weight percent of antistatic agent are added in the warp yarns through a warper auxiliary agent groove during warping, so that the static electricity and hairiness adhesion of the yarns are reduced. The filling rate of the loom is 80%.
S04, carbonizing grey cloth: immersing the grey cloth in sulfuric acid with the concentration of 5wt% to fully immerse the grey cloth in the sulfuric acid, taking out the grey cloth, and then compacting the grey cloth by using a roller to ensure that the liquid content of the sulfuric acid in the grey cloth is 55wt%; the roll pressure was 6 kg. And then the grey cloth is dried and baked to carbon at the temperature of 120 ℃. After carbonization, the yarn count in the grey cloth was 14/2 count.
S05, dyeing and finishing: neutralizing washing, shrinking woolen cloth, air current washing, piece dyeing, wet fluffing, thorn and drawing, wet brushing, softening, drying, light ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming, preshrinking and obtaining a finished product.
And (3) neutralization washing: using Na 2 CO 3 Neutralizing sulfuric acid in carbonized grey cloth, and neutralizing to pH value of 6.5.
Milling: the raw material is sewn into a cylinder, then the raw material is contracted at the pressure of 0.2kg, the contraction opening is 12cm, the concentration of the contraction agent is 10wt%, the contraction is performed lightly and slowly, the contraction time is 60 minutes/50 m, the temperature is 38 ℃, the contracted width is 152cm, the bottom velvet is plump, and the carbonization ash is crushed.
Air washing: the vehicle speed is 1000m/min, the baffle plate is fallen, and the vehicle is impacted for 30min. The shrinking agent and carbonized ash are cleaned and removed.
Piece dyeing: pre-washing treatment is carried out in a dye vat again before dyeing, so that the gray fabric meets the requirement of pH value 6.5, and then dyeing is carried out.
Fuzzing: in order to reduce the fuzzing loss, fuzzing is carried out on wet woolen blank steel wires, and the fuzzing speed is 8m/min; the speed of the needle roller is 33 revolutions per minute, the speed of the needle roller is 30 revolutions per minute, and the napping is 8 times.
And (3) thorn pulling: the cloth speed of the thorn fruit roughening machine is 8m/min, and thorn is pulled for 11 times.
Wet brushing: and (3) rolling and shaping by a wet brush, wherein a steel brush and a brown brush are all used, and shaping time is 24 hours.
Softening: the calender solution is softener with the concentration of 3wt%, the pressure is 6Kg, and the cloth speed is 8m/min.
And (3) drying: the speed of the vehicle is 12m/min, the overfeeding is 15%, the temperature is 115 ℃, and the width of the vehicle is 155cm.
Scalding: the ironing roller temperature is 220 ℃, and the cloth speed is 10m/min.
Shearing: the cloth speed is 8m/min, the shearing is 3 times, the knife is gradually fallen, and the shearing length is 2mm.
Steaming: the cloth speed is 10m/min, the steam is 100%, and the brake is 90%.
And (3) steaming: the pressure in the steaming pot is 1.5kg, the steaming time is 3min, the force of Bao Buzhang is 150kg, the pressure of the pressing rod is 50kg, and the temperature in the pot is 120 ℃.
Preshrinking: the speed of the vehicle is 10m/min, the steam pressure is more than 4kg, the temperature of the hot air shaping box is 105 ℃, the breadth is 150cm, and the overfeeding is 3%.
Example 2
S01, selecting raw materials: the non-carbonized combed staple of 19.5 μm is 65%, the cotton wool of 19.5 μm is 35%, and the modal fiber with the specification of 1.5D is 38mm is added, wherein the modal fiber accounts for 10wt% of the combed staple and the washed Mao Zongchong.
S02, spinning:
and hair: mixing combed short wool and cashmere for 2 times, adding 0.5wt% of crude oil and 0.5wt% of cohesion agent for 2 times, and sealing wool in a wool blending bin for 8 hours, uniformly mixing wool and viscose fiber for 2 times for 1 time, packaging, and controlling the post Mao Huichao rate at 15%.
Carding: workshop temperature 28 ℃, humidity 70%, carding tin Lin Zhuaisu rpm, licker-in rpm, 1000 doffer 17 rpm, cylinder cover 5-point gauge (mm) is: 0.33, 0.3, 0.28, 0.3, the weight of the discharged strip is 4g/m.
Drawing: drawing 3 times using a drawing frame with autoleveling, and drawing a 4g/m weight.
Air spinning: workshop temperature 24 ℃, humidity 60%, rotor diameter 50 mm/turn, cup speed 3900 turn/min, carding roller 8000 turn/min, enlarging and enlarging rotor impurity discharging holes, spinning real spinning count 14.5 counts, Z twist direction, twist 720 twist/m.
Stranding: after doubling by a doubling machine, twisting by a two-for-one twister, wherein the number of the folded yarns is 14.5/2 metric, the S twisting direction and the twist number is 420 twists/meter.
Steaming yarn: yarn steaming temperature is 95 ℃, and heat preservation time is 45min; and then cooling and discharging.
S03, designing and weaving: 2/2 single-sided structure, warp and weft adopt a common branch of 14.5/2, yarn is spun by air flow, and 0.1 weight percent of liquid wax and 0.1 weight percent of antistatic agent are added in the warp yarn through a warping machine auxiliary agent groove during warping, so that static electricity and hairiness adhesion of the yarn are reduced. The filling rate of the loom is 80%.
S04, carbonizing grey cloth: immersing the grey cloth in sulfuric acid with the concentration of 4wt% to fully immerse the grey cloth in the sulfuric acid, taking out the grey cloth, and then compacting the grey cloth by using a roller to ensure that the liquid content of the sulfuric acid in the grey cloth is 55wt%; the roll pressure was 6 kg. And then the grey cloth is dried and baked to be carbon at the temperature of 125 ℃. After carbonization, the yarn count in the grey cloth is 16/2 count.
S05, dyeing and finishing: neutralizing washing, shrinking woolen cloth, air current washing, piece dyeing, wet fluffing, thorn and drawing, wet brushing, softening, drying, light ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming, preshrinking and obtaining a finished product.
And (3) neutralization washing: using Na 2 CO 3 Neutralizing sulfuric acid in carbonized grey cloth, and neutralizing to pH value of 7.0.
Milling: the raw materials are sewn into a cylinder, the wool is shrunk, the pressure of the wool shrinkage is 0.2kg, the shrinkage opening is 12cm, the concentration of the shrinking agent is 10%, the wool is lightly and slowly shrunk, the wool shrinkage time is 60 minutes/50 m, the temperature is 42 ℃, the width of the shrunk wool is 152cm, the bottom wool is plump, and the carbonized ash is crushed.
Air washing: the vehicle speed is 1000m/min, the baffle plate is fallen, and the vehicle is impacted for 30min. The shrinking agent and carbonized ash are cleaned and removed.
Piece dyeing: pre-washing treatment is carried out in a dye vat again before dyeing, so that the gray fabric meets the requirement of pH value 7.0, and then dyeing is carried out.
Fuzzing: in order to reduce the fuzzing loss, the steel wire of the wet woolen blank is fuzzed, and the fuzzing speed is 10m/min; the speed of the needle roller is 35 r/min, the speed of the needle roller is 34 r/min, and the napping is 8 times.
And (3) thorn pulling: the cloth speed of the thorn fruit roughening machine is 10m/min, and thorn is pulled for 11 times.
Wet brushing: and (3) rolling and shaping by a wet brush, wherein a steel brush and a brown brush are all used, and shaping time is 24 hours.
Softening: the solution of the water calender is softening agent with the concentration of 3 weight percent and the pressure is 6Kg; the cloth speed is 10m/min.
And (3) drying: the speed of the vehicle is 12m/min, the overfeeding is 15%, the temperature is 110 ℃, and the width of the vehicle is 155cm.
Scalding: the ironing roller temperature is 225 ℃, and the cloth speed is 12m/min.
Shearing: the cloth speed is 8m/min, the shearing is 3 times, the knife is gradually fallen, and the shearing length is 2mm.
Steaming: the cloth speed is 8m/min, the steam is 100%, and the brake is 90%.
And (3) steaming: the pressure in the steaming pot is 1.5kg, the steaming time is 3min, the force of Bao Buzhang is 140kg, the pressure of the pressing rod is 60kg, and the temperature in the pot is 125 ℃.
Preshrinking: the speed of the vehicle is 10m/min, the steam pressure is more than 4.2kg, the temperature of the hot air shaping box is 110 ℃, the breadth is 150cm, and the overfeeding is 3%.
Comparative example
S01, selecting raw materials: the normal raw material collocation of the normal full Mao Duanshun fabric is 50% of 18.5 mu m carbonized scattered wool and 50% of 21 mu m short wool tops.
S02, spinning by using a coarse spinning:
and hair: mix 3 times, 3wt% and crude oil, stuffy in the hair mixing bin for 8 hours, and control the post Mao Huichao rate at 28%.
Carding: the normal carding equipment is a triple roving carding machine, and carded into roving bars of 0.075 g/m.
Spinning: ring spinning frame, spinning count is 14 public count, Z twist direction, twist 450 twists/meter.
Stranding: after doubling by a doubling machine, twisting by a two-for-one twister, wherein the number of the folded yarns is 14/2 metric, the S twisting direction and the twist number is 240 twists/meter.
Steaming yarn: yarn steaming temperature is 90 ℃, and heat preservation time is 50min; and then cooling and discharging.
S03, designing and weaving: the weaving structure is a 2/1 single-sided structure. The warp and weft are made of 14/2 of the slub yarn, and the filling rate of the loom is 75%.
S04, dyeing and finishing: primary washing, shrinking woolen cloth, air current washing, piece dyeing, drying, fuzzing, softening, thorn pulling, wet brushing, drying, light ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming, preshrinking and finished product obtaining.
Primary washing: washing with a lotion and Mao Youdeng.
Milling: the raw materials are sewn into a tube and then contracted, the contraction pressure is 0.2kg, the contraction opening is 12cm, the concentration of the contraction agent is 10wt%, the contraction is performed slowly, the contraction time is 60 minutes/50 m, the temperature is 40 ℃, and the width after contraction is 156cm.
Air washing: the vehicle speed is 500m/min, and the impact is 30min. The grey cloth is washed.
Fuzzing: fuzzing the dry blank steel wire, wherein the fuzzing speed is 8m/min; the speed of the needle roller is 33 revolutions per minute, the speed of the needle roller is 23 revolutions per minute, and the napping is 12 times.
Except the above steps, other piece dyeing, drying, softening, piercing and pulling, wet brushing, ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming and preshrinking steps are the same as the corresponding steps in step S04 of example 1.
And (3) correlation detection:
1. product quality detection
The all-wool short-smooth fabrics prepared in example 1, example 2 and comparative example were subjected to physical index detection according to the requirements in GBT 26378-2011, and the detection results are shown in the following table 1:
TABLE 1 physical index
As can be seen from Table 1, the surface density, amplitude, dimensional change rate, strength and pilling index of the full-wool short-smooth fabric produced by the method of the invention all reach the quality of first-grade products specified in national standard GB/T26378-2011, and all indexes are at the same level as those of the comparative example.
2. Cost of cost: the raw materials and the production cost of the all-wool short smooth fabrics prepared in example 1, example 2 and comparative example were calculated, and the results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2 cost statement
As can be seen from Table 2, the comparative examples require raw materials, spinning and total cost far exceeding those of examples 1 and 2, so that the production process of the invention can save wool resources and processing cost by more than 30%, and has considerable economic and social benefits.
The foregoing description is only of the preferred embodiments of the present application and is not intended to limit the same, but rather, various modifications and variations may be made by those skilled in the art. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principles of the present application should be included in the protection scope of the present application.
Claims (1)
1. The full-wool short and smooth fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
s01, selecting raw materials: 70wt% of the combed short hair which is not carbonized at 18.5 mu m, 30wt% of the 21 mu m cleaning hair, and 1.5D 38mm viscose fiber which accounts for 10% of the combed short hair and the cleaning hair Mao Zongchong;
s02, spinning:
weeding: removing heavier dust and big grass in the combed short hair through the action of a weeder;
and hair: mixing combed short wool and cashmere for 2 times, adding 0.5wt% of crude oil and 0.5wt% of cohesion agent in the 2 nd time, stuffings in a hair mixing bin for 8 hours, uniformly mixing the wool and viscose fiber for 2 times, packaging, and controlling the moisture regain after the hair mixing at 16%;
carding: the workshop temperature is 26 ℃, the humidity is 75%, the speed of carding tin Lin Zhuaisu is 320 r/min, and the gauge of 5 points of the cylinder cover plate in millimeter is: 0.33, 0.3, 0.28, 0.3, the weight of the discharged strip is 4g/m;
drawing: drawing 3 times by using a drawing frame with autoleveling, wherein the weight of the drawn sliver is 4g/m;
air spinning: workshop temperature 26 ℃ and humidity 65%; the diameter of the rotor is 50 mm/turn, the cup speed is 3900 turns/min, the carding roller is 8000 turns/min, the impurity discharging holes of the rotor are enlarged, the spinning count is 12.7 counts, the Z twisting direction is that the twist is 580 twists/m;
stranding: after doubling by a doubling machine, twisting by a two-for-one twister, wherein the number of the folded yarns is 12.7/2 metric counts, S twisting direction and 360 twists/m twisting degree;
steaming yarn: yarn steaming temperature is 90 ℃, and heat preservation time is 50min; then cooling and discharging;
s03, designing and weaving: the weaving structure is a single-sided structure of 2/1, the warp and weft are both spun yarns prepared by S02 of 12.7/2 of the common branch, and 0.1 weight percent of liquid wax and 0.1 weight percent of antistatic agent are added into the warp yarns through a warper auxiliary agent groove during warping, so that the static electricity and hairiness adhesion of the yarns are reduced; the filling rate of the loom is 80%;
s04, carbonizing the grey cloth: immersing the grey cloth in 5-wt% sulfuric acid to fully immerse the grey cloth in the sulfuric acid, taking out the grey cloth, and pressing the grey cloth by using a roller to ensure that the liquid content of the sulfuric acid in the grey cloth is 55wt%; the pressure of the roller is 6kg; then the grey cloth is dried and baked to be carbon at 120 ℃; after carbonization, the yarn count in the grey cloth is 14/2 count;
s05, dyeing and finishing: neutralizing washing, shrinking woolen cloth, air current washing, piece dyeing, wet fluffing, thorn and drawing, wet brushing, softening, drying, light ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming, preshrinking and obtaining a finished product;
and (3) neutralization washing: using Na 2 CO 3 Neutralizing sulfuric acid in carbonized grey cloth, and after neutralization, the pH value is 6.5;
milling: the method comprises the steps of stitching a woolen blank, then milling, wherein the milling pressure is 0.2kg, the shrinkage opening is 12cm, the concentration of a milling agent is 10wt%, the milling is lightly compressed and slowly compressed, the milling time is 60 minutes/50 m, the temperature is 38 ℃, the width of the milled woolen is 152cm, the bottom velvet is plump, and the carbonized ash is crushed;
air washing: the speed of the vehicle is 1000m/min, the baffle is fallen, and the vehicle is impacted for 30min; cleaning the shrinking agent and carbonized ash;
piece dyeing: pre-washing treatment is carried out in a dye vat again before dyeing, so that the gray fabric meets the requirement of pH value 6.5, and then dyeing is carried out;
fuzzing: in order to reduce the fuzzing loss, fuzzing is carried out on wet woolen blank steel wires, and the fuzzing speed is 8m/min; the speed of the needle roller is 33 revolutions per minute, the speed of the needle roller is 30 revolutions per minute, and the napping is 8 times;
and (3) thorn pulling: the cloth speed of the thorn fruit roughening machine is 8m/min, and thorn is pulled for 11 times;
wet brushing: winding and shaping by wet brushing, fully using a steel brush and a brown brush, and shaping for 24 hours;
softening: the calender solution is softener with the concentration of 3wt%, the pressure is 6Kg, and the cloth speed is 8m/min.
And (3) drying: the speed of the vehicle is 12m/min, the overfeeding is 15%, the temperature is 115 ℃, and the width of the vehicle is 155cm;
scalding: the ironing roller temperature is 220 ℃, and the cloth speed is 10m/min;
shearing: the cloth speed is 8m/min, the shearing is 3 times, the knife is gradually fallen, and the shearing length is 2mm;
steaming: the cloth speed is 10m/min, the steam is 100%, and the brake is 90%;
and (3) steaming: the pressure in the steaming tank is 1.5kg, the steaming time is 3min, the force of Bao Buzhang is 150kg, the pressure of the pressing rod is 50kg, and the temperature in the tank is 120 ℃;
preshrinking: the speed of the vehicle is 10m/min, the steam pressure is more than 4kg, the temperature of the hot air shaping box is 105 ℃, the breadth is 150cm, and the overfeeding is 3%.
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