CN113789605A

CN113789605A - Warp knitting jacquard product knitting method of three-station jacquard

Info

Publication number: CN113789605A
Application number: CN202110903323.1A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 柯薇; 邓中民; 李照; 吴越
Original assignee: Wuhan Textile University
Current assignee: Wuhan Textile University
Priority date: 2021-08-06
Filing date: 2021-08-06
Publication date: 2021-12-14
Anticipated expiration: 2041-08-06
Also published as: CN113789605B

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for weaving a warp-knitted jacquard product of a three-station jacquard, which belongs to the technical field of jacquard product weaving and comprises the following steps: the warp-knitted jacquard product is knitted by a three-station jacquard guide needle, two rows are taken as a jacquard unit, each row is controlled by two signals respectively to control the offset condition of the front needle back of the needle, each jacquard unit is controlled by 4 signals, 3 offset signals are provided, and each offset signal corresponds to one needle without offset, one needle with offset and two needles with offset respectively. The invention enriches the number of jacquard organization units and expands the combination of organization effects.

Description

Warp knitting jacquard product knitting method of three-station jacquard

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of jacquard product weaving, and particularly relates to a method for weaving a warp-knitted jacquard product of a three-station jacquard.

Background

At present, jacquard patterns of warp knitting products mainly comprise 2 types: a shogging jacquard and a jacquard. The transverse moving jacquard uses the change of the transverse moving amount of the comb to generate patterns, and is divided into a multi-comb mode and a small-comb mode according to the number of the comb owned by the device, wherein the small-comb mode is mainly used for producing inner coats and decorative fabrics such as eyelet fabric, flannelette and the like, and the main product of the multi-comb mode is raschel lace. But the production limitation of the shogging jacquard is that the pattern raising capability depends on the number of guide bars, and the more the pattern guide bars are, the stronger the pattern raising capability is; and the bottom net has a single structure and is uniform, repeated and unchanged. According to the jacquard, combined patterns with different structures and levels, such as thickness, thinness, meshes and the like, are formed by utilizing the left and right independent offset of each guide needle on a jacquard comb, the offset can be independently controlled by each jacquard comb, the defect of the jacquard lifting of the transverse jacquard technology is overcome to a great extent, and the design freedom degree and flexibility are greatly improved. However, the jacquard guide needle is also called as a two-station jacquard at present, and can only realize the offset of two left and right positions, as shown in fig. 1 below, the generated traversing amount is determined by the basic traversing amount of the jacquard guide needle and the offset of the jacquard guide needle, while the basic traversing amount of the jacquard guide needle at present can be 1 needle (chain stitch), 2 needles (warp plain stitch), 3 needles (warp velvet stitch), and the total traversing amount generated by the jacquard guide needle or the offset of 1 needle left or right, and can reach 2 needles, 3 needles or 4 needles, also known as 2 needles, 3 needles or 4 needles jacquard technology, the yarn laying motion which can be formed can only be three (thick, thin and mesh weave), is relatively simple, the pattern effect is single, and cannot meet the requirement of increasing pattern diversity, and when the jacquard technology of the new 2 needles, 3 needles or 4 needles jacquard technology is supplemented with the jacquard technology of the front needle back traversing technology, the jacquard technology of the new 2 needles, 3 needles or 4 needles can be expanded to 16 types, the weave effect is added with a 'heavy warp and floating line' weave on the basis of a 'thick, thin and mesh' weave, as shown in a lapping motion comparison chart of the following table 1, a denser weave and a larger mesh can be formed, but the design has many limitations and cannot meet the requirements of people in modern society on pattern diversification and individuation.

Therefore, how to provide a method for knitting a warp-knitted jacquard product of a three-station jacquard is a problem which needs to be solved urgently by the technical personnel in the field.

Disclosure of Invention

In view of the above, the invention provides a knitting method of a warp-knitted jacquard product of a three-station jacquard, which enriches the number of jacquard weaving units and expands the combination of the weave effect.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

a method of knitting a three-position jacquard warp-knitted jacquard product, comprising: the warp-knitted jacquard product is knitted by a three-station jacquard guide needle, two rows are taken as a jacquard unit, each row is controlled by two signals respectively to control the offset condition of the front needle back of the needle, each jacquard unit is controlled by 4 signals, 3 offset signals are provided, and each offset signal corresponds to one needle without offset, one needle with offset and two needles with offset respectively.

Preferably, offset signals of odd and even rows of the three-station jacquard respectively have nine forms of no offset, one needle front offset, one needle back offset, one needle front needle back offset, two needle front offset, two needle back offset, one needle back offset, two needle front offset, one needle back offset, one needle front offset and two needle back offset.

Preferably, the three-station jacquard can be shifted to three positions, the three-station jacquard needs one third of the jacquard number, and the jacquard guide bar consists of a guide bar JB1.1, a guide bar JB1.2 and a guide bar JB 1.3; the guide needles on the guide bar JB1.1, the guide needles on the guide bar JB1.2 and the guide needles on the guide bar JB1.3 are arranged at intervals in sequence, and the guide needles on each guide bar are arranged at intervals of three needle spaces.

Preferably, the knitting method of the warp-knitted jacquard product can be used for knitting thick weave structures, thin weave structures, floating line weave structures and mesh weave structures.

Preferably, the jacquard unit is capable of forming a thick stitch effect across three needles, the thick stitch exceeding three needles is divided into a super thick stitch in which the loops cross four needles, and the extended line crosses three needle pitches, forming a warp bias and a varied warp bias effect.

Preferably, thin stitches means a stitch that spans two needles, with a very short stretch line, only between two wales; the jacquard unit is divided into three groups according to different wales spanned by the jacquard unit, wherein the group A2 stitch loops span two needles close to the right, the group B2 stitch loops span two needles close to the left, and the group C5 stitch loops span two needles in the middle.

Preferably, the float stitch is a stitch which forms float lines in a certain row without being looped, the float stitch is divided into three groups according to the odd-numbered row and the even-numbered row of the float lines, and the A group of 5 stitches is the float lines; the odd number of the B group of 5 tissues is a floating line; group C1 tissues formed floats in both rows.

Preferably, the mesh tissue includes any one or a combination of more of a small diamond mesh formed by a thick tissue, a small oval mesh or a medium diamond mesh formed by a thin tissue, and a pillar tissue.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

when the jacquard is used as a fancy bottom net, various tissue effects such as thick tissue, thin tissue, mesh tissue and the like can be used, but the mesh tissue is mainly used, the used tissue is not too complex, and the effect formed by combination is not too many layers, so that the main pattern effect is not influenced by bustling; the jacquard is more abundant in matching of textures when the jacquard is used as main body patterns, is not limited to mesh textures or simple thick and thin textures, and fully utilizes various effects which can be formed by the jacquard to construct multi-level, multi-style and multi-effect main body patterns in a matching way.

Drawings

In order to more clearly illustrate the embodiments of the present invention or the technical solutions in the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly described below, it is obvious that the drawings in the following description are only embodiments of the present invention, and for those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained according to the provided drawings without creative efforts.

FIG. 1 is an offset view of a conventional two-position jacquard guide needle according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is an offset view of a three-position jacquard guide needle of the invention.

FIG. 3 is a diagram of the offset signal control lapping movement of a three-station jacquard guide needle of the invention.

FIG. 4 is a three-station diagram of the movement of the course lapping of the present invention.

Fig. 5 is a diagram of a conventional two-station half-size jacquard bar arrangement according to the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a layout view of a three-position jacquard guide bar according to the present invention.

FIG. 7 is a diagram of the effect of the super-thick tissue of the present invention.

Figure 8 is a movement diagram and a coil diagram of the irregular diamond mesh lapping of the present invention.

FIG. 9 is the movement diagram of the left and right heavy warp thin-weave lapping yarns of the present invention.

Fig. 10 is a diagram of the small oval mesh effect of the present invention.

FIG. 11 is a diagram of the diamond mesh effect of the present invention.

Fig. 12 is a jumper organization diagram of the present invention.

FIG. 13 is a hexagonal mesh pattern according to the present invention.

Fig. 14 is an elliptical small mesh diagram of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Based on the current situation that the pattern layers of the two-station jacquard body technology are single and limited, the invention provides a jacquard warp knitting jacquard product weaving method. By three-position jacquard is meant that its jacquard guide needle can be offset in three positions, as shown in fig. 2, by 1 or 2 needles to the left or right.

When the basic shift amount is 2 stitches, the three-stitch technique in the two-station jacquard can have the basic shift amount 2+ the maximum shift amount 1 equal to the maximum shift amount 3 and the lapping movement crossing at most three stitches as shown in table 1, and in the three-station jacquard, the basic shift amount 2+ the maximum shift amount 2 equal to the maximum shift amount 4 and the lapping movement crossing at most four stitches can be performed. The deflection positions of the jacquard guide needles are expanded from two to three, the displacement is expanded along with the expansion of the displacement, and the number of jacquard organization units is further enriched by combining the needle front needle back traversing technology, so that the organization effect combination is expanded.

TABLE 1

In the three-station jacquard technology, two rows are taken as a jacquard unit, and each row is controlled by two signals to respectively control the offset condition of the front needle back of a needle, namely each jacquard unit is controlled by 4 signals, but because of three offset positions, the offset signals are three, and the offset signals '0, 1 and 2' respectively correspond to a non-offset needle, an offset needle and an offset needle. The yarn laying movement controlled by the offset signal is shown in fig. 4, the lower number in the figure is the needle point gap, the left number in the figure is the offset signal '0012', the offset signal before the needles in the odd rows is 0, the offset signal at the back of the needles is 0, which indicates that the needles in the front of the needles are not offset, the yarn laying number is still 1-2//, and the yarn laying is looped in the first column of the odd rows. The even number row front offset signal is 1, which indicates that one needle is offset, and as shown by a green arrow in fig. 3, the front lapping position is changed from 1 to 2; the front offset signal of the even-numbered row needles is 2, which indicates that the needle back is offset by two needles, as shown by the red arrow in FIG. 3, the yarn laying position of the needle back is changed from 2 to 4, and correspondingly, the yarn laying number is changed from 1-2// to 2-4//. That is, the yarn laying motion with the yarn laying number of 1-0/1-2// as drawn by the broken line in the figure becomes the yarn laying motion with the yarn laying number of 1-0/2-4// (as drawn by the solid line in the figure) after the deviation control of the deviation signal "0012".

By analyzing the deviation principle of the three-station jacquard, the deviation signals of odd and even rows of the three-station jacquard respectively have nine forms of no deviation 00, one needle 10 with front needle deviation, one needle 01 with back needle deviation, one needle 11 with front needle deviation, two needles 20 with front needle deviation, two needles 02 with back needle deviation, two needles 12 with back needle deviation, one needle 21 with back needle deviation and two needles 22 with front needle deviation, as shown in fig. 5. (a) The odd lines are 9 tissues formed after the deviation, and (b) the even lines are 9 tissues formed after the deviation.

Theoretically, nine types of yarn laying motions of odd number and even number are respectively provided, but the warp doubling stitch technology crossing three needles formed by an odd number row signal '20' and an even number row signal '02' is difficult to realize, and the yarn laying motions are omitted; secondly, the signals '01' and '12' in the odd-numbered rows are respectively floating lines formed among the first needle, the second needle and the third needle, the signals '10' and '21' in the even-numbered rows are respectively floating lines formed among the second needle, the third needle and the fourth needle, the floating lines are also the floating line effect, but the effect formed during weaving is not different, the floating line effect formed finally is related to the longitudinal rows where the tissues of the previous row and the next row are located, and the floating line tissues can be taken as one; finally, the signal "02" in the odd-numbered rows and the signal "20" in the even-numbered rows are limited by the basic structure, and the shift of the signal is restricted by the basic structure, so that the shift of the front needle cannot be shifted over the back needle, and the obtained structure effect is the floating effect, and can be omitted, therefore, 6 × 6-36 jacquard unit structures can be formed after the arrangement and combination. Compared with 16 combinations of two-station jacquard three-needle technology, the jacquard unit structure formed by the three-station jacquard four-needle technology is increased from 16 to 36, and the pattern effect formed by the jacquard unit structure can be theoretically formed according to the characteristics of 36 different jacquard unit structures and the combination of different sequences

And (5) planting a flower type.

In the two-station jacquard warp knitting machine, each jacquard guide needle can independently shift, if the jacquard warp knitting machine is in full-size configuration, when a guide needle at a certain position shifts leftwards, the jacquard guide needle can shift to the position of an adjacent guide needle, the jacquard guide needle has a needle firing phenomenon, and the jacquard guide needle cannot normally perform yarn laying movement. Therefore, the arrangement is generally a half-machine configuration, and a specific half-machine guide bar configuration is shown in fig. 5, wherein the 1 st, 3 rd, 5 th 5 … … th guide needles are sequentially arranged on the guide bar JB1.1 at two needle spaces, and the 2 nd, 4 th, 6 th 6 … … th guide needles are sequentially arranged on the guide bar JB1.2 at two needle spaces, that is, the guide needles are equally distributed on the two guide bars according to odd and even two needle spaces which can correspond to or be staggered.

However, since the three-position jacquard can be shifted to three positions, when the 3 rd guide needle is shifted, the three-position jacquard needs to be shifted to the positions of the 1 st and 2 nd guide needles, and in order to prevent needle firing, the three-position jacquard needs to be configured with one third of the number, as shown in fig. 6, the jacquard guide bar is composed of JB1.1, JB1.2, and JB 1.3. In the figure, the 1 st, 4 th, 7 … … th guide needles are arranged on a guide bar JB1.1, the 2 nd, 5 th, 8 … … th guide needles are arranged on a guide bar JB1.2, and the 3 rd, 6 th, 9 … … th guide needles are arranged on a guide bar JB1.3, and the guide needles on each guide bar are arranged at intervals of three needle spaces.

(1) Thick tissue structures and their effects

When the jacquard weave unit crosses three needles, a thick weave effect can be formed, the thick weave exceeding the three needles is divided into an extra thick weave, according to the yarn laying motion combination of fig. 4, the basic combination effect of the extra thick weave is shown in table 2, a coil in the extra thick weave crosses four needles, an extension line crosses three needle pitches, a warp skew and a changed warp skew weave effect are formed, and the extra thick weave is obviously thicker than the common thick weave. According to the forming principle, when one needle is transversely moved in front of the needle and two needles are transversely moved on the back of the needle, a heavy warp structure can be formed.

TABLE 2

In fig. 7, a plurality of even-numbered courses formed by the combination of fig. 7(a) and (v) are the upper heavy warp extra thick tissue lapping movement pattern combination of the heavy warp structure, a plurality of odd-numbered courses formed by the combination of fig. 7(c) and (v) are the lower heavy warp extra thick tissue lapping movement pattern combination of the heavy warp structure, fig. 7(d) and fig. 7(f) are corresponding coil patterns, and the thick effect in the lapping movement pattern is not obvious as seen from the circled part of the red coil in the figure, but the coil pattern is obvious as seen in that each needle of the heavy warp part has two yarns looped, one extending line and three extending lines are arranged in a staggered way between two courses in the same vertical row, and the thick effect is mainly embodied in the coil part. The oblique warp stitch formed by combining (c) and (c) is as shown in a motion diagram of oblique cushion yarns in fig. 7(b), and the corresponding coil diagram is as shown in fig. 7(e), wherein the stitch only has one yarn looped on each needle, but the extension line is long, three extension lines are arranged between every two transverse rows, and the thickness of the stitch is mainly reflected in the extension line part.

In the thick tissue, the tissue can be divided into two groups according to different wales spanned by the thick tissue, as shown in table 3, the A group of 4 tissue coils spans the three needles close to the right to form the thick tissue with the opening facing the left; the B group of 4 tissue coils cross the left three needles to form open right thick tissue. The existing two-station jacquard card of the group A organization can be realized through deviation, the group B organization is similar to the group A organization, and the opening direction is different. When the tissues with different thickness in the opening direction are matched with other tissues for use, the effects of meshes with different thicknesses, sizes and layers can be formed. The combination of the second warp knitting fabric and the third warp knitting fabric and the fifth warp knitting fabric are double warp knitting fabrics, and the warp knitting fabric is less used together with other warp knitting fabrics when the pattern is designed because the warp knitting fabric is obviously larger than other warp knitting fabrics.

TABLE 3

Since the three-station jacquard can form loops in at most four wales, not only can the thick texture be formed to have a thickening effect, but also a mesh effect can be formed when other textures are used in combination. For example, the first yarn deviation signal is 0011, the looping movement with the yarn laying number of 1-0/2-3// is performed, the second yarn deviation signal is 1122, the looping movement with the yarn laying number of 2-1/3-4// is performed, and irregular small diamond meshes as shown in fig. 8 are formed.

(2) Thin tissue structures and their effects

Thin tissue generally refers to tissue that spans between two needles, with the tissue extension line being short, only between two wales. The stitches were divided into three groups according to the wales spanned by the stitches, with group a 2 spanning the right two stitches, as shown in table 4, group B2 spanning the left two stitches, as shown in table 5, and group C5 spanning the middle two stitches, as shown in table 6.

TABLE 4

In the thin structure shown in Table 4, the coil straddles the two needles on the right, and is called a right thin structure. The combination of the first step and the second step is that basic organization warp and weft organization and jacquard are not deviated. The combination is used for forming the odd-numbered transverse rows in the structure, the odd-numbered transverse rows are heavy warp structures, when the structures are repeatedly combined, compared with a warp flat structure, two yarns of each needle of the odd-numbered transverse rows of the structures are looped on the odd-numbered transverse rows, and the loop parts are relatively thickened. And as shown in fig. 9(b), the left side edge portion can form a chaining-like effect, but has a link with the adjacent wale, and can be used as the leftmost side seam allowance organization.

TABLE 5

In the thin tissue shown in table 5, the coil crosses the two needles on the left, which is called left thin tissue. The combination of the sixteenth and the sixteenth is also the meridian plane tissue, but the meridian plane tissue is deviated by two needles to the left relative to the whole basic tissue. The combination sixthly and fifthly form a structure, wherein the even-numbered horizontal lines are heavy warp structures, when a plurality of same structures circulate, two yarns are arranged on each needle of the even-numbered horizontal lines to form a loop, the loop part is thickened relatively, as shown in fig. 9(a), the right edge part can form a similar chaining effect, is connected with the adjacent wale and can be used as the rightmost side lock edge structure.

TABLE 6

In the rarefied tissue shown in Table 6, the coil spans the two needles in the middle, which is called medium rarefied tissue. The combination of fourth and fourth is a tricot structure of an offset needle; the combination of the two cross-warp yarns is similar to the two wales of the combination of the two cross-warp yarns, but the two wales of the combination of the two cross-warp yarns are not transversely connected with each other, and the two warp yarns are transversely overlapped, so that each needle can be formed with two loops; the combination of fourth + third, fifth, sixth and sixth has a similar effect to that of the single-transverse-row heavy warp structure in the left and right thin structures, the specific effect needs to be specifically analyzed, meshes can be formed by matching different structures, and a coil thickened structure can also be formed.

Particularly, the three-station jacquard can form a texture which is obviously different from that of the two-station jacquard, if the combination of the sixth step and the sixth step is adopted, a texture effect that an odd number row cannot be formed under the new three-needle and new four-needle technology is looped in a third longitudinal row, and an even number row is looped in a second longitudinal row can be formed, namely, a single yarn of the three-needle jacquard satin texture can be formed, and the effect generated when the three-station jacquard is matched with other textures can be realized without using a jacquard reverse jacquard technology. For example, when the offset signal of each jacquard unit of odd yarns is 0000 and 2200, and the looping movement with the lapping number of 1-0/1-2/3-2/1-2// is performed, the offset signal of each jacquard unit of even yarns is 2200 and 0000, and the looping movement with the lapping number of 3-2/1-2/1-0/1-2// is performed, the small oval mesh effect shown in the following fig. 3.4 can be obtained, wherein the width of the mesh is about one needle pitch, and the height is about two courses; when odd number of yarns are alternated, namely the deviation signals of 1, 5, 9 and 13 … … th yarns are 0000 and 2200, the looping movement with the yarn laying number of 1-0/1-2/3-2/1-2// is performed, the deviation signals of 3, 7, 11 and 15 … … th yarns are 2200 and 0000, the looping movement with the yarn laying number of 3-2/1-2/1-0/1-2// is performed, the deviation signal of even number of yarns is 1100, and the looping movement with the yarn laying number of 2-1/1-2// is performed, the diamond mesh effect in the figure 13 can be obtained. Wherein red in the figure indicates the approximate shape of the mesh formed.

(3) Floating line tissue structure and effect analysis thereof

The floating line tissue refers to a tissue which forms floating lines in a certain row without being looped, the floating line tissue is divided into three groups according to the odd-numbered rows and the even-numbered rows of the floating lines, and the 5 groups of the A group have the even-numbered rows as the floating lines, as shown in a table 7; the odd-numbered rows of the 5 tissues in the group B are floating lines, as shown in Table 8; group C1 tissues formed floats on both courses as shown in table 9.

TABLE 7

In the float stitch shown in table 7, the yarns are looped in odd-numbered courses and float in even-numbered courses, and this is called an upper float stitch. The first, second and third longitudinal rows form a double-warp structure respectively, and the specific direction of the floating line is related to the longitudinal row of the next one-turn structure.

TABLE 8

In the float stitch shown in table 8, the yarns float in odd courses and loop in even courses, and this is called a lower float stitch. The combination of the three, the fourth, the third and the fourth wales is looped respectively, the combination of the three, the third and the fifth is looped respectively to form the multiple warp tissues in the second, the third and the fourth wales respectively, and the specific direction of the floating thread is related to the wale of the last looped tissue.

TABLE 9

In the float stitch shown in table 9, the yarns are float in both odd and even rows, which is called double float stitch, and when the double float stitch is matched with other stitches, floats with different lengths and different directions can be generated.

The floating lines are used in combination to form a special jumper effect, as shown in fig. 12, 12 jumper effects formed by combining and matching the upper floating lines, the floating lines and the lower floating lines are listed, and the floating line effects formed by different tissue combinations are different. Forming an upper floating line and a lower floating line in the A-row floating line effect, and forming a loop in the first row and the fourth row; the B row of floating line effects comprise an upper floating line, a double floating line and an upper floating line, and the upper floating line, the double floating line and the upper floating line are looped in a first horizontal row and a fifth horizontal row; the C-row floating line effect comprises an upper floating line, a double floating line and a lower floating line, and the upper floating line, the double floating line and the lower floating line are looped in the first row and the sixth row. FIG. 12(a) shows the row of floats crossing the right three needles, FIG. 12(b) shows the row of floats crossing the four needles, FIG. 12(c) shows the row of floats crossing the middle two needles, and FIG. 12(d) shows the row of floats crossing the left three needles. In contrast, when the double float structure is used between two float structures, a longer float is obtained, not limited to one, and when the two float structures are upper and lower floats, a longer float is obtained than when the two float structures are upper and lower floats (lower and upper floats). The various float effects are primarily used in practice to form meshes of different sizes, but in practice no excessively long floats, i.e. double floats, are used for weaving.

(4) Mesh tissue structure and effect analysis thereof

The mesh tissue does not mean only a certain type of tissue, but many tissues can form meshes when used in combination, and as shown in fig. 9, small rhombic meshes may be formed by thick tissues, and as shown in fig. 10 and 11, small elliptic meshes or medium rhombic meshes may be formed by thin tissues. In this subsection, the pillar stitch is classified as a mesh stitch because there is no transverse connection between two longitudinal rows of pillar stitches, and it is easier to form a mesh when used in conjunction with other stitches. The pillar stitches that can be formed in the three-station jacquard technique are two types, the pillar stitch formed in the second wale with the offset signal of 1100 and the pillar stitch formed in the third wale with the offset signal of 2211, and the yarn laying movement pattern shown in the table is open pillar stitch, but the pillar stitch formed specifically is open pillar stitch or closed pillar stitch, and it is necessary to consider the stitch of the next course to be formed in the several wales, as shown in table 10.

Watch 10

Example 1:

(1) three-station jacquard woven fancy bottom net

When the jacquard is used as a fancy bottom net, various weave effects such as thick weave, thin weave, mesh weave and the like can be used, but the mesh weave is mainly used, the used weave is not too complex, the effect formed by combination is not too many layers, and the main pattern effect is not influenced by noise.

Multi-bar jacquard raschel lace, which is a jacquard fabric produced on a raschel warp knitting machine equipped with more than 18 pattern bars, on which usually 000 looping ground bars, pattern bars and jacquard bars are arranged, which play different roles, and sometimes spandex bars are used. The yarn used by the looping comb is high in strength and can play a role of supporting other tissues in the fabric, but the fineness is low, so that the tissue structure is not obvious, the realization of the whole pattern is not influenced, and when the looping comb participates in weaving, the looping comb is mainly based on an open knitting chain tissue with the yarn laying number of 1-0/0-1// is adopted. In order to avoid affecting the main body pattern of the spandex comb, the used yarn is usually a thin spandex elastic yarn, a single-needle weft insertion structure with the yarn laying number of 0-0/1-1// is made, and the yarn is inserted among chaining loops knitted by the ground comb, and the main function of the spandex yarn is to change the drapability and elasticity of the fabric. The pattern comb is to make the large-needle-pitch transverse-moving yarn to form the main pattern according to the designed pattern, and the used yarn is determined by the pattern effect and the pattern color matching required to be formed. The jacquard comb, the looping ground comb and the spandex yarn form a bottom net structure together, the jacquard comb is the same as the looping ground comb, the used yarn is high in strength and low in fineness, and thick, thin and mesh structures with different sizes are formed together by combing and knitting chain structures in a matched mode to serve as the bottom net by utilizing the characteristic that each jacquard guide needle can independently deflect. Common ground net weaves are pillar weaves, which are simple in form and will not be discussed in detail, and mesh weaves, of which hexagonal meshes and elastic mesh weaves are the most common ground net types in raschel lace.

The common hexagonal mesh is formed by co-weaving a looping guide bar with the yarn laying number of 1-0/0-1/1-0/1-2/2-1/1-2// and a weft insertion guide bar with the yarn laying number of 0-0/1-1/0-0/2-2/1-1/2-2// as shown in the yarn laying movement diagram of fig. 13(a), wherein the blue line represents the yarn laying movement diagram of the looping guide bar, and the red line represents the yarn laying movement diagram of the weft insertion guide bar. The stitches are deflected by the force of the weft inserted yarns to form a hexagonal mesh as shown in fig. 13 (b). The height of the hexagonal meshes formed in the yarn-laying mode is less than four rows and more than three rows, and the width is approximately two needle pitches.

The three-station jacquard can form various mesh textures which can be formed by the common jacquard, such as a hexagonal mesh structure in a coil diagram of fig. 14, and can also form some special mesh textures. In the coil diagram of fig. 14, the jacquard comb has the basic lapping number of 1-0/1-2//, and by controlling the deflection of the jacquard guide needle, the lapping number of odd yarns is 1-0/1-2/3-2/1-2//, and the lapping number of even yarns is 3-2/1-2/1-0/1-2// to form a looping movement, under the action of force, oval small meshes with the height of about two rows and the width of about one stitch are formed. The small elliptic meshes are mainly formed by shifting the front needle backs of the guide needles of the odd-numbered courses of every other odd-numbered course by two needles, keeping the even-numbered courses unchanged, and can be extended to perform the motion of shifting the guide needles of the odd-numbered courses by two needles every other two odd-numbered courses to form the elliptic meshes with the height of about four courses and the width of one needle pitch.

Although this mesh weave can be realized by using two ground combs with one empty and one through, and the numbers of the base weave yarns of the ground combs are 1-0/1-2/3-2/1-2// and 3-2/1-2/1-0/1-2// respectively, the base mesh weave in this case is limited to forming only this mesh weave. When the reverse jacquard technology of the two-station jacquard is used, the mesh structure can be realized, but the reverse jacquard technology simultaneously limits the basic yarn-laying number and the yarn guide needle offset direction of two half-jacquard, the mesh structure formed by the same-direction jacquard technology and the mesh structure formed by the reverse jacquard technology cannot be realized on the same fabric, and the three-station jacquard has the advantage that meshes with different sizes and shapes can be formed on the same fabric. Various meshes such as hexagonal meshes in fig. 13, oval small meshes in fig. 14, extended meshes of oval meshes, and elastic meshes can be realized together at different parts of the fabric, and the patterns of the main body are supported by meshes of different shapes, so that the effect of the whole fabric is more refined.

(2) Three-station jacquard weaving main body pattern

The jacquard is more abundant in matching of textures when the jacquard is used as main body patterns, is not limited to mesh textures or simple thick and thin textures, and fully utilizes various effects which can be formed by the jacquard to construct multi-level, multi-style and multi-effect main body patterns in a matching way.

The RSJ4/1 warp knitting machine with two stations jacquard as main body pattern effect is composed of a jacquard comb JB1, two ground combs GB2 and GB3 and a spandex comb GB 4. Two jacquard combs with half machine numbers of the warp knitting machine are used for carrying out equidirectional yarn laying, and the basic yarn laying number is 1-0/1-2. When a spandex comb GB5 is added on the basis of an RSJ4/1 warp knitting machine, the RSJ5/1 warp knitting machine is obtained, two half-size jacquard combs in the warp knitting machine with the configuration adopt reverse lapping, the lapping number of JB1.1 is also a warp flat structure 1-0/1-2//, and the lapping number of JB1.2 is a reverse warp flat structure 1-2/1-0//, the reverse lapping can not only develop the same products of the RSJ4/1 warp knitting machine, but also can weave some warp knitting fabrics with special effects, such as novel ground-net-free light and thin jacquard fabrics which do not have a bottom net structure and are developed by using only the jacquard comb with the reverse lapping and two spandex combs, and when the bottom net does not exist, the formed fabrics are thinner and finer and can be used as underwear or body shaping clothes fabrics.

When the three-station jacquard is used for making main body patterns, if the jacquard comb is used for padding yarns in the same direction, when the basic structure is a warp flat structure 1-0/1-2// the basic structure can form a structure formed by padding yarns in the same direction of the two-station jacquard comb, a structure formed by reverse padding yarns and an extra-thick structure formed by the two-station jacquard four-needle technology. In other words, the three-station jacquard can simultaneously form the effects of forming the two-station jacquard in the same direction and in the opposite direction on the same fabric, and can also simultaneously form the effects of five layers such as extra thickness, thinness, meshes, floating lines and the like. If the three-station jacquard comb is used for reverse lapping, the formed weave structure has certain difference. For example, when designing flower patterns, the super-thick tissue is taken as the tissue of the pistil, and the three-dimensional property of the pistil is highlighted; thick tissues are connected with thin tissues to serve as petals, wherein the thick tissues are close to stamens, so that the layering sense of the petals is increased; various mesh structures are used as connecting patterns and bottom net structures to highlight main body patterns.

The pattern of the three-station jacquard is not limited by basic structure, the formed pattern layers and pattern effects are plump, the three-station jacquard has more obvious advantages in decorative fabrics such as lace and the like, and can also be greatly applied to clothing fabrics such as coats, panty-hose, vamps and the like.

The embodiments in the present description are described in a progressive manner, each embodiment focuses on differences from other embodiments, and the same and similar parts among the embodiments are referred to each other. The device disclosed by the embodiment corresponds to the method disclosed by the embodiment, so that the description is simple, and the relevant points can be referred to the method part for description.

The previous description of the disclosed embodiments is provided to enable any person skilled in the art to make or use the present invention. Various modifications to these embodiments will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art, and the generic principles defined herein may be applied to other embodiments without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, the present invention is not intended to be limited to the embodiments shown herein but is to be accorded the widest scope consistent with the principles and novel features disclosed herein.

Claims

1. A method for knitting a warp-knitted jacquard product of a three-station jacquard is characterized by comprising the following steps: the warp-knitted jacquard product is knitted by a three-station jacquard guide needle, two rows are taken as a jacquard unit, each row is controlled by two signals respectively to control the offset condition of the front needle back of the needle, each jacquard unit is controlled by 4 signals, 3 offset signals are provided, and each offset signal corresponds to one needle without offset, one needle with offset and two needles with offset respectively.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the offset signals of odd and even courses of the three-position jacquard are not offset, shifted by one needle before the needle, shifted by one needle behind the needle, shifted by two needles before the needle, shifted by two needles behind the needle, shifted by one needle behind the needle ahead, shifted by two needles behind the needle, and shifted by two needles behind the needle ahead.

3. The method of claim 2, wherein the three-position jacquard can be shifted by three positions, the three-position jacquard requiring a one-third number configuration, the jacquard bars consisting of guide bar JB1.1, guide bar JB1.2 and guide bar JB 1.3; the guide needles on the guide bar JB1.1, the guide needles on the guide bar JB1.2 and the guide needles on the guide bar JB1.3 are arranged at intervals in sequence, and the guide needles on each guide bar are arranged at intervals of three needle spaces.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein the warp knitting jacquard weave is capable of knitting thick, thin, float and mesh weaves.

5. The method of claim 4, wherein the jacquard unit is capable of creating a thick stitch effect across three needles, the thick stitch exceeding three needles is divided into super thick stitches, the stitches in the super thick stitches are crossed over four needles, the stretch lines are crossed over three needle spaces, and a warp bias and a varying warp bias effect are created.

6. A method of knitting a three-position Jacquard warp-knitted jacquard product according to claim 4, characterized in that the thin stitches represent the stitches that span both needles, the stretch lines being very short, only between two wales; the jacquard unit is divided into three groups according to different wales spanned by the jacquard unit, wherein the group A2 stitch loops span two needles close to the right, the group B2 stitch loops span two needles close to the left, and the group C5 stitch loops span two needles in the middle.

7. The method of claim 4, wherein the float stitch is a stitch formed by non-looping a certain course, the float stitch is divided into three groups according to odd and even courses, and the A group of 5 even courses is a float; the odd number of the B group of 5 tissues is a floating line; group C1 tissues formed floats in both rows.

8. A method of knitting a three-position jacquard warp-knitted jacquard product according to claim 4, wherein the mesh weave comprises any one or more of a combination of a small diamond mesh formed by a thick weave, a small oval mesh or a medium diamond mesh formed by a thin weave, and a pillar weave.