CN113081902A - Make-up-holding moisturizing water cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Make-up-holding moisturizing water cream and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN113081902A
CN113081902A CN202110409722.2A CN202110409722A CN113081902A CN 113081902 A CN113081902 A CN 113081902A CN 202110409722 A CN202110409722 A CN 202110409722A CN 113081902 A CN113081902 A CN 113081902A
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water
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谢坤
唐如辉
张永雪
刘浩
吴超
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Dongshengyuan Research Institute Guangzhou Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48Thickener, Thickening system

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Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a make-up-holding moisturizing cream which comprises a phase A raw material, a phase B raw material, a neutralizing agent, a thickening agent-2, a preservative, functional components, essence and other raw materials.

Description

Make-up-holding moisturizing water cream and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a make-up-holding moisturizing water cream and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Foundation products sold in the market at present are various and mainly classified into the following types: water-in-oil, oil-in-water, whole oil, whole water formulations; in general, foundation is used as a base product of color cosmetics, and the most important requirements are firstly that the makeup effect is lasting and waterproof and sweat-proof, and secondly that the foundation has various skin care effects and has effects of regulating skin color, concealing blemishes, preventing sun and isolating and the like. Currently, oil-in-water type and all-water type foundations are weak in lasting makeup efficiency, water resistance, sweat resistance and good in moisturizing and skin care effects; the water-in-oil and full-oil foundation has a good effect on lasting makeup effect and water resistance, but the feeling after the foundation is used is relatively greasy, so that the experience feeling of consumers is poor.
The foundation products sold on the market are mainly water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion products which are whitened in a mode of covering the skin surface, and Chinese patent No. CN104434569A discloses an 8-hour makeup-free exquisite crystal muscle water powder emulsion which is prepared from superfine silicon-treated titanium dioxide dispersion slurry, silicon-treated nano titanium dioxide dispersion slurry, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, silicon-treated iron oxide yellow dispersion slurry, silicon-treated iron oxide red dispersion slurry, silicon-treated iron oxide black dispersion slurry, cyclopentylsiloxane/trimethylsiloxysilicate, sorbitan sesquioleate, cyclopentylsiloxane/dimethiconol, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, magnesium aluminum silicate, xanthan gum, polyglutamic acid, propylene glycol, butanediol, phenoxyethanol/ethylhexyl glycerol, octanediol/ethylhexyl glycerol, The water-based powder emulsion consists of sodium hydroxide and water, and has the advantages of lasting moisturizing effect, oil control and good sweat resistance.
The comprehensive market selling product and the patent product have the following defects:
(1) the oil-in-water or oil-in-water emulsion product has poor oil-flawless capability, is not long-lasting, is easy to remove powder due to sweating, and is easy to have powder blocking or difficult to be smeared uniformly when in use;
(2) the water-in-water foundation is generally greasy, most of the titanium dioxide used in the similar products is silicon treatment or alkyl silicon treatment, the titanium dioxide treated by the treatment is dry and astringent, and after the titanium dioxide is used, the skin is dry and astringent and has a pseudo-white condition;
(3) the patent product is generally moist and firm, is an emulsion, is relatively fitting, but is not easy to push and wipe, the preparation process needs to control the adding speed of an oil phase, and the phase inversion condition is easy to occur when the oil phase is added too fast, so that a water-in-oil system is formed, and the skin feel is thick.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the problems, the invention aims to provide the make-up-holding moisturizing water cream and the preparation method thereof, and the water cream which has good make-up holding, skin color correction, safety and mildness, other skin care effects and good use experience is developed.
The technical purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme that the make-up-keeping moisturizing water cream comprises the following components in parts by weight,
phase A raw material 69.2-100
Phase B raw material 1.13-14.1
Neutralizing agent 0.1-1
Thickener-20.2-2
0.1-1.5% of preservative
0.5-5 parts of effective component
0.01 to 0.5 percent of essence,
the phase A raw material comprises the following components in parts by weight,
water 66-93
Thickener-10.1-0.5
Humectant 3-6
10.1 to 0.5 percent of emulsifier,
the phase B raw material comprises the following components in parts by weight,
surface treated titanium white powder 1-5
Surface treatment of oxide red 0.01-1
Surface treated yellow oxide of 0.01-1.5
Surface treated black oxide 0.01-1
Oleyl ester 1-10
Emulsifier-20.1-0.6.
Wherein the humectant is at least one of glycerol, propylene glycol and butanediol, the oil ester is C11-13 isoparaffin and/or hydrogenated polyisobutene, the emulsifier-2 is sorbitan sesquioleate, the antiseptic is p-hydroxyacetophenone and hexanediol, and the neutralizer is at least one of arginine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, tromethamine and tetrahydroxypropylethylenediamine
Preferably, the thickener-1 is acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, and the proportion of the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer is 0.05-0.5%.
Preferably, emulsifier-1 is potassium cetyl phosphate and/or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.
Preferably, the surface-treated titanium dioxide is titanium dioxide surface-treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, the surface-treated iron oxide red is iron oxide red surface-treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, the surface-treated iron oxide yellow is iron oxide yellow surface-treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, and the surface-treated iron oxide black is iron oxide black surface-treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate. Wherein the titanium dioxide used in the product has a particle size of 250nm, and the surface of the titanium dioxide is treated by isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
Further preferably, the particle size of the titanium dioxide is 250 nm.
Preferably, the thickener-2 is PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradecanol polyether-20, butanediol and water, and is sold under the name of ADEKA NOL GT-730.
Preferably, the functional ingredients comprise nicotinamide, D-panthenol and saccharide isomers.
Wherein, the nicotinamide is also called vitamin B3, which can increase the synthesis of keratin and increase the content of barrier layer protein, thereby helping to keep the moisture of the skin and reduce the sensitivity of the skin; in addition, melanosomes can be transferred to surrounding keratinocytes, which helps to give the skin a more uniform skin tone;
panthenol is a precursor of vitamin B5, is also called provitamin B5, is a deeply penetrating humectant, can stimulate the growth of epithelial cells, promote wound healing, and has anti-inflammatory effect; the saccharide isomerate is derived from plant D-glucose, and is polysaccharides composed of psicose, glucose, mannose, fructose, glucose and galactose; the saccharide isomerate is similar to the composition of carbohydrate complex (NMF-natural moisturizing factor) in skin, can be combined with epsilon-amino acid functional group in cutin to exert strong hydration to achieve long-acting moisturizing effect, can not be easily washed off even if being washed by water, is firmly combined with the surface of the skin like a magnet, and the other group of the saccharide isomerate exerts strong hydration to prevent water loss, absorbs water from the external environment and dynamically maintains the water balance of the skin. Has instant deep moisture keeping effect, and can strengthen skin barrier function.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the make-up-keeping moisturizing water cream, which comprises the following steps:
s1: adding water, thickener-1, humectant and emulsifier-1 into an emulsifying pot, stirring, heating to 80-85 deg.C, homogenizing at high speed for 3min until thickener-1 and emulsifier-1 are completely dispersed and dissolved to obtain phase A raw material;
s2: mixing and stirring uniformly surface-treated titanium dioxide, surface-treated red oxide, surface-treated yellow oxide, surface-treated black oxide, grease and an emulsifier-2, and adding the mixture into a grinder to grind for more than three times to obtain a B-phase raw material;
s3: adding a neutralizer into the emulsifying pot filled with the phase A raw material, and homogenizing at a high speed until the material body becomes thick;
s4: slowly adding the B-phase raw material into the emulsifying pot in the step S3, stirring, completely adding, and homogenizing at high speed for 5-7 min until the material is fine;
s5: adding a thickening agent-2 into the emulsifying pot in the step S4, stirring for 3-5 min until the materials are uniformly mixed and fine, and continuously stirring for cooling;
s6: when the temperature of the material in the S5 emulsifying pot is not higher than 45 ℃, sequentially adding the preservative, the functional components and the essence, and uniformly stirring to obtain moisturizing water cream;
wherein the step S1 and the step S2 are not in sequence.
Preferably, the heating method in step S1 is steam heating.
Preferably, the high-speed homogenizing speed in step S1, step S3 and step S4 is 2000-3000r/min, and the stirring speed in step S1, step S3, step S4, step S5 and step S6 is 30-100 r/min.
The principle of the invention is as follows: the invention adopts an oil-in-water emulsifier, firstly, the powder is dispersed in an oil phase, then, the oil phase for dispersing the powder is dispersed in a water phase gel, and a small amount of oil-in-water emulsifier with strong emulsifying capacity and a thickening agent-1 with certain emulsifying capacity are used for emulsifying the oil and the powder. And the thickening agent-2 is added to increase the viscosity of the product and enable the product to become Q elastic and have a memory recovery function. The material body is thick, but has good spreadability, water-wetting property, good later period adherence, uniform powder dispersion and no powder blocking.
According to the invention, by selecting and using the emulsifier of the oil-in-water and combining with the combined action of other raw materials, the prepared water and water-soluble components are nearly 80%, the appearance of the water and water-soluble components is Q elastic, the water and water-soluble components have memory recovery capability, are easy to spread when in use, are moist and are very comfortable, and the make-up-holding moisturizing water cream can be used for creating natural and naked make-up.
In conclusion, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
firstly, the invention selects acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer as thickener-1, which has certain capability of emulsifying and dispersing powder and has auxiliary effect on the stability of the formula;
secondly, potassium cetyl phosphate and/or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil are/is selected, wherein the potassium cetyl phosphate is an oil-in-water emulsifier with good emulsifying capacity and has certain waterproof capacity;
thirdly, the titanium dioxide surface treatment adopted by the invention is triisostearic acid isopropyl titanium salt treatment, the particle size is 250nm, the skin feel is more moist after the titanium dioxide is used, and the false white phenomenon is effectively avoided.
Fourthly, the thickening agent-2 of the invention adopts a market product ADEKA NOL GT-730, and after being combined with the invention, the thickening agent not only endows the product with Q elasticity of appearance, but also contributes to the memory recovery capability of the product;
fifthly, the functional raw materials of the foundation make-up are nicotinamide, D-panthenol and saccharide isomerate which are matched with each other, so that the foundation make-up has the effects of moisturizing and nourishing the skin, and has the effects of concealing and correcting the skin color of the traditional foundation make-up.
Sixth, the oil-in-water emulsifier used in the invention is less in usage amount, and after the oil-in-water emulsifier is used, the water is flushed, so that the oil-in-water emulsifier in the formula is not enough to re-emulsify the oil ester and the powder attached to the skin, and the powder is flushed away with water.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is the skin hydration rate before and after the test sample was used in the examples;
FIG. 2 is a statistical result of the TEWL values of the pre-and post-transdermal water dispersion loss using the test samples in the examples.
Detailed Description
The present invention is described in further detail below with reference to examples, which are intended to facilitate the understanding of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention in any way. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. In case of conflict, the present specification, including definitions, will control.
The term "prepared from …" as used herein is synonymous with "comprising". The terms "comprises," "comprising," "includes," "including," "has," "having," "contains," "containing," or any other variation thereof, as used herein, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion. For example, a composition, process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements is not necessarily limited to only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such composition, process, method, article, or apparatus.
The conjunction "consisting of …" excludes any unspecified elements, steps or components. If used in a claim, the phrase is intended to claim as closed, meaning that it does not contain materials other than those described, except for the conventional impurities associated therewith. When the phrase "consisting of …" appears in a clause of the subject matter of the claims rather than immediately after the subject matter, it defines only the elements described in the clause; other elements are not excluded from the claims as a whole.
When an amount, concentration, or other value or parameter is expressed as a range, preferred range, or as a range of upper preferable values and lower preferable values, this is to be understood as specifically disclosing all ranges formed from any pair of any upper range limit or preferred value and any lower range limit or preferred value, regardless of whether ranges are separately disclosed. For example, when a range of "1 to 5" is disclosed, the described range should be interpreted to include the ranges "1 to 4", "1 to 3", "1 to 2 and 4 to 5", "1 to 3 and 5", and the like. When a range of values is described herein, unless otherwise stated, the range is intended to include the endpoints thereof and all integers and fractions within the range.
The invention relates to a make-up-holding moisturizing water cream, which comprises 69.2-100 parts of phase A raw material, 1.13-14.1 parts of phase B raw material, 0.1-1 part of neutralizing agent, 20.2-2 parts of thickening agent, 0.1-1.5 parts of preservative and 0.5-5 parts of effective component essence, wherein the phase A raw material comprises 66-93 parts of water, 10.1-0.5 part of thickening agent, 3-6 parts of humectant and 10.1-0.5 part of emulsifier according to parts by weight, and the phase B raw material comprises 1-5 parts of surface treatment titanium dioxide, 0.01-1 part of surface treatment oxide red, 0.01-1.5 parts of surface treatment oxide yellow, 0.01-1 part of surface treatment oxide black, 1-10 parts of oil ester and 20.1-0.6 parts of emulsifier according to parts by weight.
Explanation of the respective raw materials:
the humectant is at least one of glycerol, propylene glycol and butanediol;
the oleyl ester is C11-13 isoparaffin and/or hydrogenated polyisobutene;
emulsifier-2 is sorbitan sesquioleate;
the antiseptic is p-hydroxyacetophenone and hexanediol;
the neutralizer is at least one of arginine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, tromethamine and tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine;
thickener-1 is acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, and the ratio of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer is 0.05-0.5%;
emulsifier-1 is potassium cetyl phosphate and/or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil;
the surface treatment titanium dioxide, the surface treatment red oxide, the surface treatment yellow oxide and the surface treatment black oxide are all surface treatment by triisostearic acid isopropyl titanium salt, and the particle size of the titanium dioxide is 250 nm;
the thickener-2 is PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyl tetradecyl polyether-20, butanediol and water, and is sold under the name of ADEKA NOL GT-730 in the existing market;
the effective components comprise nicotinamide, D-panthenol and saccharide isomer.
The component contents of examples 1 to 5 are shown in Table 1 below
Table 1 raw material component content statistical table
Figure 638683DEST_PATH_IMAGE002
Wherein, the unit of each component is percentage, the total sum of the raw materials of the formula in each embodiment is 100 percent, and the component content is/is that the component is not added.
The make-up-keeping moisturizing lotions of examples 1-5 above were prepared as follows,
s1: adding water, acrylic acid (esters)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, glycerol, butanediol and potassium cetyl phosphate into emulsifying pot, stirring, heating to 80-85 deg.C, homogenizing at high speed for 3min,
completely dispersing and dissolving acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and potassium cetyl phosphate to prepare phase A raw material;
s2: mixing and stirring uniformly the surface-treated titanium dioxide, the surface-treated red oxide, the surface-treated yellow oxide, the surface-treated black oxide, C11-13 isoparaffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene and sorbitan sesquioleate, adding the mixture into a grinding machine to grind for three times, and dispersing the toner uniformly to prepare a B-phase raw material for later use, wherein the grinding machine at other places is a three-roll grinding machine or a colloid grinding machine;
s3: adding arginine into an emulsifying pot filled with the phase A raw material, homogenizing at high speed until the material body becomes thick, and stirring at the speed of 100 rpm/min;
s4: slowly adding the B-phase raw material into the emulsifying pot in the step S3, stirring, completely adding, and homogenizing at high speed for 6min until the material is fine;
s5: adding PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyl tetradecyl polyether-20, butanediol and water into the emulsifying pot in the step S4, stirring for 3min until the materials are uniformly mixed and fine, and continuously stirring and cooling;
s6: when the temperature of the material in the S5 emulsifying pot is 45 ℃, sequentially adding hexanediol, hydroxyacetophenone, nicotinamide, D-panthenol, saccharide isomerate and essence, and uniformly stirring to obtain the moisturizing water cream.
Wherein, the heating mode in the step S1 is water-vapor heating, the high-speed homogenizing speed in the steps S1, S3 and S4 is 2000-3000r/min, and the stirring speed in the steps S1, S3, S4, S5 and S6 is 30-100 r/min.
First, description of experimental results
According to the same process, successful water creams can be prepared in examples 1, 2, 3 and 5, and example 4 in the preparation process, the addition of the B phase oil phase to the neutralized A phase is that the body becomes suddenly thickened and the body skin feel becomes heavy, and the conversion is into a water-in-oil system, thus excluding the experimental results of example 4, and it can be seen that the phase inversion occurs when the content of potassium cetyl phosphate, i.e., emulsifier-1, is too high.
Second, effective examples physical and chemical Properties of the product
The stability tests of the water powder creams prepared in examples 1, 2, 3 and 5 were carried out according to the methods common in the cosmetics industry, and the results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2 summary of physicochemical Properties
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE004
As can be seen from Table 2, the gouache creams prepared by the method of the invention in the examples 1, 2, 3 and 5 have good heat resistance, cold resistance and stability of cycle test.
Third, product efficacy assessment
A commercially available water powder cream was used as a comparative example.
1. The test substance: example 1, example 2, example 3, example 5 and comparative example (commercial water cream) were subjected to QB/T4256-2011 "guideline for evaluating moisturizing efficacy of cosmetic preparations" as a reference standard.
2. Subject: the subjects were 50 women in good health, with the ages ranging from 20 to 40 years, and were not treated with a similar functional cosmetic within 2 days prior to testing. The subjects were randomized into 5 groups of 10 individuals each, and each tested for example 1, example 2, example 3, example 5, and comparative example, the test sites were facial and required uniform application. The test instrument is as follows: skin moisture content tester Corneometer CM825 (CK, Germany) and moisture loss tester Tewameter TM 300 (CK, Germany).
3. The test flow comprises the following steps:
1) testing environment requirements: constant temperature and humidity (temperature 22 + -2 deg.C, relative humidity 50% + -5% RH) environment, subject was asked to sit still for 30min before testing data.
2) The test method comprises the following steps: the skin surface water loss was tested using a Tewameter TM 300, with an average taken 3 times per test area; after the skin surface moisture loss test was completed, the skin moisture content was measured using Corneometer CM825 and 5 averages were taken for each test zone.
3) Sample smearing: the test sample was applied to the test area of the subject's skin in an amount of 2mg/cm 2.
4) Data acquisition: the data acquisition time was 0 hours (i.e., the first pre-sample application skin test), 2 hours, 4 hours, 2 weeks, 4 weeks of the first sample application; during which the subject applies an equal amount of the test sample to the test area each morning and does not apply any other cosmetic to the test area; data at weeks 2 and 4 were determined at 4 hours after sample application on the day.
4. Test results
1) MMV value of skin moisture content
a. The MMV value of the skin moisture content is larger, the moisture content is larger, and conversely, the moisture content is smaller.
b. The higher the hydration rate, i.e., the skin hydration rate, the more pronounced the moisturizing effect, the hydration rate being (test skin hydration-control skin hydration)/control skin hydration × 100%.
c. The test skin hydration level is the data collected after the subject applied the sample, and the control skin hydration level is the data collected before the subject first smears the sample.
Referring to fig. 1, the data set was analyzed for normal distribution using the skin hydration rate before and after the test sample using SPSS 22.0 software, and the statistical results were all in accordance with normal distribution. The MMV values of moisture content in the test area of the samples were significantly different at 2 hours, 4 hours, 2 weeks and 4 weeks from the paired t test results before use (P < 0.05).
It can be seen that the MMV values for skin moisture content in the test area are higher after the test sample is applied by the subject over the test period than before the application. By comparing the hydration rate data at the 2 nd hour and the hydration rate data at the 4 th hour, the water-blooming short-time water replenishing effects of the water-blooming in the examples 2, 3 and 5 are better; comparing the hydration data at week 2 and week 4, it can be seen that the skin moisturizing effect of the products of example 2, example 3, and example 5 is significantly better and the skin moisturizing ability of the skin itself is improved, compared to the comparative example, with the most significant effect of example 3.
2) TEWL value of transdermal water dispersion
a. The smaller the value of the percutaneous water loss TEWL value is, the less the water loss is, and the stronger the water locking capacity is; on the contrary, the weaker the water locking capacity is;
b. the water loss rate and the change rate of the TEWL value, the lower the value, the better the water locking effect.
Referring to the attached figure 2, the statistical results of the TEWL values of the front and back transdermal water dispersion loss of the test sample are used, the SPSS 22.0 software is used for carrying out normal distribution analysis on the data group, and the statistical results are all in accordance with normal distribution. The sample test area transdermal water dispersion loss TEWL values were very significantly different (P < 0.01) from the paired t-test results before use at hours 2, 4, weeks 2 and 4.
It is seen that the transdermal water dispersion loss in the test area is lower after the test sample is applied to the test subject than before the application during the test period. Comparing the data of the skin water loss rate at the 2 nd hour and the 4 th hour, the skin water loss reducing effects of the embodiment 2, the embodiment 3 and the embodiment 5 are better; comparing the data of the skin water loss rate at week 2 and week 4, it can be seen that the effects of reducing the transdermal water loss are significantly better and the skin moisture retention is improved by the products of example 2, example 3 and example 5, the most significant of which is example 3, compared to the comparative example.
By combining the analysis results, the products of the examples 2, 3 and 5 can obviously improve the moisture content of the skin and reduce the transdermal moisture loss, which indicates that the test sample has obvious moisturizing effect, and the moisturizing effect is better than the instant effect in the weeks 2 and 4 of use, and indicates that the moisturizing capability of the skin can be effectively improved after long-term use. In example 1, the skin feel is light and thin, and the light grease is completely used, and the moisturizing capability of the light grease is slightly inferior to that of the comparative example.
Fourth, sensory analysis and evaluation
1. The test substance: example 1, example 2, example 3, example 5 and comparative example.
2. Subject: the total 50 people, female 10 people, age 18-40 years, meet the volunteer selection criteria of the subject.
3. The evaluation method comprises the following steps: applying 80ul of sample on the back of hand, coating the sample on the back of hand by using another sample in a soft and rotary manner for 10 times, and then sequentially evaluating the moistening feel, the spreadability, the smoothness, the skin-sticking property and the comfortable feeling after use of the sample in a mode of scoring and averaging (the higher the score is, the better the lasting feel, the moistening feel, the spreadability, the smoothness, the skin-sticking property and the comfortable feeling after use of the product are) to obtain the better the moistening feel, the spreadability, the smoothness, the skin-sticking property and the comfortable feeling after use of the sample.
The results obtained by sensory evaluation are shown in Table 3 below
TABLE 3 sensory evaluation score statistics sheet
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE006
And (4) evaluation results: the results of the statistics of the composite subject scores after application are shown in Table 3. As can be seen from the evaluation results, the water creams of examples 2, 3 and 5 of the present invention are superior to the comparative water cream in durability, feeling of moisturization, spreadability, smoothness, skin-fitting property and after-use comfort. The moisturizing effect of example 1 was the lowest, and was slightly lower than the comparative example, but the spreadability and smoothness were indeed the best, mainly the light, thin grease of example 1. Compared with the example 5, the makeup holding effect of the example 2 is obviously higher than that of the example 5, mainly because the content of the emulsifier-1 in the example 5 is higher than that of the emulsifier-1 in the example 2, and the emulsifier-1 is an oil-in-water emulsifier, can emulsify grease and is easy to fall off when meeting water. The addition amount is too high, which can affect the make-up effect of the product. Wherein example 3 is superior to all of the regimen creams in terms of durability, moisturization, spreadability, smoothness, skin-hold, and after-use comfort.
The water-in-oil water-based cream has the advantages of good makeup holding effect, skin color correction, other skin care effects, safety, mildness, good use experience, and capability of ensuring the stability of the product and having good makeup holding effect and moisturizing capability by using the powder subjected to surface treatment by using the isopropyl titanium triisostearate and reasonably matching the addition amounts of the emulsifier-1 and the emulsifier-2.
The foregoing examples are merely illustrative and serve to explain some of the features of the method of the present invention. The appended claims are intended to claim as broad a scope as is conceivable, and the examples presented herein demonstrate the results of applicants' actual experiments. Accordingly, it is applicants' intention that the appended claims are not to be limited by the choice of examples illustrating features of the invention. Also, where numerical ranges are used in the claims, subranges therein are included, and variations in these ranges are also to be construed as possible being covered by the appended claims.

Claims (10)

1. A make-up-holding moisturizing water cream is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight,
phase A raw material 69.2-100
Phase B raw material 1.13-14.1
Neutralizing agent 0.1-1
Thickener-20.2-2
0.1-1.5% of preservative
0.5-5 parts of effective component
0.01 to 0.5 percent of essence,
the phase A raw material comprises the following components in parts by weight,
water 66-93
Thickener-10.1-0.5
Humectant 3-6
10.1 to 0.5 percent of emulsifier,
the phase B raw material comprises the following components in parts by weight,
surface treated titanium white powder 1-5
Surface treatment of oxide red 0.01-1
Surface treated yellow oxide of 0.01-1.5
Surface treated black oxide 0.01-1
Oleyl ester 1-10
Emulsifier-20.1-0.6.
2. The make-up and moisturizing lotion of claim 1, wherein the thickener-1 is a cross-linked polymer of acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate, and the ratio of acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate is 0.05-0.5%.
3. The make-up moisture-retaining cream of claim 1, wherein the emulsifier-1 is potassium cetyl phosphate and/or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.
4. The make-up-holding moisturizing water cream of claim 1, wherein the surface-treated titanium dioxide is surface-treated titanium dioxide of isopropyl titanium triisostearate, the surface-treated iron oxide red is surface-treated iron oxide red of isopropyl titanium triisostearate, the surface-treated iron oxide yellow is surface-treated iron oxide yellow of isopropyl titanium triisostearate, and the surface-treated iron oxide black is surface-treated iron oxide black of isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
5. The make-up-keeping moisturizing water cream according to claim 4, wherein the titanium dioxide has a particle size of 250 nm.
6. The make-up and moisturizing cream of claim 1, wherein the thickener-2 is a mixture of PEG-240/HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradecanolpolyether-20, butylene glycol, and water.
7. The make-up preserving moisture cream as claimed in claim 1, wherein the functional ingredients comprise niacinamide, D-panthenol and saccharide isomers.
8. A method of preparing a make-up-retaining moisturizing cream as claimed in any of claims 1-9, comprising the steps of:
s1: adding water, thickener-1, humectant and emulsifier-1 into an emulsifying pot, stirring, heating to 80-85 deg.C, homogenizing at high speed for 3min until thickener-1 and emulsifier-1 are completely dispersed and dissolved to obtain phase A raw material;
s2: mixing and stirring uniformly surface-treated titanium dioxide, surface-treated red oxide, surface-treated yellow oxide, surface-treated black oxide, grease and an emulsifier-2, and adding the mixture into a grinder to grind for more than three times to obtain a B-phase raw material;
s3: adding a neutralizer into the emulsifying pot filled with the phase A raw material, and homogenizing at a high speed until the material body becomes thick;
s4: slowly adding the B-phase raw material into the emulsifying pot in the step S3, stirring, completely adding, and homogenizing at high speed for 5-7 min until the material is fine;
s5: adding a thickening agent-2 into the emulsifying pot in the step S4, stirring for 3-5 min until the materials are uniformly mixed and fine, and continuously stirring for cooling;
s6: when the temperature of the material in the S5 emulsifying pot is not higher than 45 ℃, sequentially adding the preservative, the functional components and the essence, and uniformly stirring to obtain moisturizing water cream;
wherein the step S1 and the step S2 are not in sequence.
9. The method of claim 8, wherein the heating step in step S1 is water vapor heating.
10. The method as claimed in claim 8, wherein the high-speed homogenizing speed in steps S1, S3 and S4 is 3000r/min at 2000-3000r/min, and the stirring speed in steps S1, S3, S4, S5 and S6 is 30-100 r/min.
CN202110409722.2A 2021-04-16 2021-04-16 Make-up-holding moisturizing water cream and preparation method thereof Pending CN113081902A (en)

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CN114668688A (en) * 2022-03-23 2022-06-28 广州市白云区大荣精细化工有限公司 Waterproof face beautifying cream and preparation method thereof

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CN107737098A (en) * 2017-11-21 2018-02-27 广州市科能化妆品科研有限公司 A kind of light sensation brilliant white element face frost and preparation method thereof
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CN107737098A (en) * 2017-11-21 2018-02-27 广州市科能化妆品科研有限公司 A kind of light sensation brilliant white element face frost and preparation method thereof
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Application publication date: 20210709